Eric Hörst's Tra

Antagonist and Stabilizer Training Exercises Core Training Exercise

Wrist & Forearm Stabillizers REPS SETS Anterior Core REPS SETS
Band Finger Extension 15 - 25 1-2 Feet-Up Crunches 25 - 100 2
Reverse Wrist Curls 15 - 25 2-3 Hanging Knee Lifts 15 - 20 1-3
Pronators 20 - 25 2 Mountain Climber Plank 20 - 50 1-2
Reverse Arm Curl 15 - 20 1-2 1-Arm Elbow & Side Plank 10 - 25 1-2
Wrist Extension Isometric 45 - 90 sec. 2 TRX "Supermans" 5 - 12 2-3
Wide Pinch w/ Wrist Ext. 10 - 20 sec. 3-5 Windshield Wipers 6 - 12 2-3
Rotator Cuff & Scap Stabilizers REPS SETS Posterior Core REPS SETS
DB Internal Rotation 20 - 25 2 Superman 20 - 25 2
DB External Rotation 20 - 25 2 Reverse Plank 20 - 60 sec. 2-3
Sling Trainer “Ts” 10 - 20 2 Reverse Mtn. Climber Plank 8 - 15 1-2
Sling Trainer “Ys” 10 - 20 2 Side Hip Raises 10 - 20 2
Shrugs 20 - 25 2 Total/Posterior Chain REPS SETS
Scapular Push-Up 15 - 20 2 Sumo Deadlift 10 - 15 2
Scapular Pull-Up 6 - 12 2 Dumbbell Snatch 5-8 2-3
Antagonist (Push) Muscles REPS SETS Barbell Deadlift 3-6 2-4
Shoulder Press 15 - 20 1-2 Barbell Squat 5-8 1-2
Bench Press/Push-Up 15 - 25 1-2 Climbing-Specific Core REPS SETS
Tricep Pushdown 8 - 12 2 Steep Wall Traversing 60 - 120 sec. 2-4
Sling Trainer Pec Flys 8 - 12 2 Steep Wall Cut & Catch 1 ascent 3 - 5 ascents
Dips 8 - 20 2-3 Roof Lever-Ups 3-8 2-3
Front Lever 2-5 2-3

For a detailed description of every exercise listed above, see Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock

Entry-level exercises shown in GREEN -- appropriate for all climbers.

Intermediate-level exercises shown in GOLD -- appropriate for experienced & advanced climbers.
Advanced-level exercises shown in PINK -- appropriate only for advanced/elite climbers.

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst www.Training4Climbing.com

 Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing Program -- www.Training4Climbing.com (Copyright 2016 - All R
Limit-Strength Exercises Power-Training Exercises
Finger Flexors REPS SETS Finger Flexors REPS
Limit Bouldering 1 - 4 tries/prob 3 -7 problems One-Arm Traversing 6 - 12 moves
Wide Pinch w/ Wrist Extension 10 - 20 sec. 05-Feb One-Arm Lunging 6 - 12 moves
Hypergravity Bouldering 1 - 3 reps/prob 2 - 7 problems Campus Board (CB) “Bumps” 2 - 4 sets each side
“Minimum Edge” Hangs 5 hangs/set 2-5 CB Laddering (no skips, smallish rungs) up only
Max-Weight Hangs “10-Second” 5 hangs/set 2-5 CB “Switch Hands” 6 - 12 moves
Max-Weight Hangs “7-53” Protocol 3 hangs/set 2-5 CB Double Dynos (smallish rungs) 6 - 12 moves
HIT System—Max-Strength Protocol 8 - 15 6 - 12 HIT System Pinch Hold Double Dynos 3 - 6 moves
Heavy Finger Rolls 3-8 3-5 Arms & Torso REPS
Pinch Ball Hangs 3 hangs/set 2-5 Big-Move Boulder Problems 4 - 8 moves
Arms & Torso REPS SETS Power Pull-Up (Chest-Bump) 5 - 12
Weighted Pull-Ups 4-8 3-6 Gym Rope Climbing sprint to top
Lat Pulldown 4-8 3-6 CB “Laddering” (larger rungs w/ skips) 3 - 6 moves
System Wall “Isolation” 6 - 12 2-5 Clap Pull-Ups 3-6
Square Pull-Ups 3-6 1-2 Boulder Campusing (Monkey Biz) 3 - 8 moves
Typewriters 3-6 1-2 CB Double Dynos (Large Rungs 5 - 9 moves
Scapular Pull-Ups 6 - 12 2-3
Uneven-Grip Pull-Ups 3-5 2-3
Steep Wall “Lock-Offs” (aka Touches) 6 - 12 2-5 RPE (Rating of Pre
One-Arm Lock-Offs 2-3 2-3 See Training For Climbing (page 117
One-Arm Pull-ups 1-5 2-5

Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017). Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com

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Strength/Power-Endurance Training Exercises Local and Generalized Aerobic Training Exercises

SETS Finger Flexors REPS SETS Local/Climbing-Specific Aerobic Endurance
2-3 Short-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters 6 - 12 3-5 ARC Traversing - Recovery Climbing (RPE: 4 to 6)
2-3 Bouldering 4x4s 4 4 Submaximal Route Intervals (RPE: 6 to 8)
- 4 sets each side Long-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters 4 3-5 Climb All Day
3 - 10 HIT System—S/P-Endurance Protocol 30 - 90 sec. 6 - 12 Fingerboard Moving Hangs
2-5 System Wall Repeaters 30 - 60 sec. 4 - 12 Campus Board or System Wall “Hand Play”
2-5 Small-Rung Ladder Laps (No Skips) 30 - 60 sec. 2-5 Threshold Intervals (RPE: 7 to 8.5 out of 10)
2-3 Arms & Torso REPS SETS Generalized Aerobic Training
SETS Pull-Up Intervals ~5 10 - 20 Steady State Aerobic Training (RPE: 6 to 8)
3-8 Big-Holds, Big-Move 4x4s 4 4 Interval Training (RPE: 8 to 9)
1-3 Route Intervals 3 - 4 routes 1-3 High-Volume Generalized Aerobic Training (big wall and
3-8 Power Pull-Up Intervals (Chest-Bump) 3-5 5 - 10 alpine climbers only)
3 - 10 Frenchies 2 - 6 cycles 2-4
2-3 Square Dance 45 - 90 sec. 2-4
3 - 10 Campus Ladder Laps on Big Holds 30 - 60 sec. 2-5
1-5 Gym Rope Interval sprint to top 3 - 10

RPE (Rating of Preceived Exertion) is a 1 to 10 scale of exercise/climbing intensity and subjective exertion.
e Training For Climbing (page 117) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (page 182) for a detailed coverage of "training zones" for climbers.

bing.com
bic Training Exercises
REPS SETS
15 - 30 min. 1
2-4 min/route 10 - 20
many routes
5 - 10 min. 1-3
3 - 5 min. 3-6
3 - 5 min. 3-8
REPS SETS
15 - 30 min.
30 - 60 each 6 - 10

45 - 120 min.
 Beginner-level Program (with Clim
Workout with Climbing (1.5 - 3.0 h
SUGGESTED REPS & SETS
15 minutes of general warm-up activity, including mobility/flexibility exercises.
1 5 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity
2 5 minutes of easy (large hold) bouldering
3 5 minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching

20 - 40 minutes of submaximal climbing--focus on learning new skills, refining technique, and mental game.
4 Do 4 - 8 top-rope routes (1/2 to 2 number grades below maximum ability)
Do a second lap on an route that you struggle or fall on--striving for efficient movement and pace.

10 - 30 minutes of strenuous bouldering or near-limit roped cimbing

5 Do 5 - 10 near-limit boulder problems….or do 2 - 4 near-limit roped routes.

3 - 5 set of pull-muscle exercises (10 - 20 minutes) REPS SETS

6 Weighted Pull-ups (select weight that would limit you to 7 or 8 reps) 5 3-5

4 - 8 sets of Core Exercises (10 - 15 minutes) REPS SETS

7 Hanging Knee Lifts 15 - 20 1-2
8 Supermans 16 - 20 1-2
9 Mountain Climber Plank 20 - 30 1
10 Feet-up Crunches 25 - 50 2-3

5 - 10 sets of Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises (20 - 40 minutes) REPS SETS

* These can be done on a rest day from climbing; but don't skip--Important!
11 Shoulder Press 15 - 20 1-2
12 Bench Press 20 - 25 1-2
13 Finger band extensions 15 - 20 1-2
14 Reverse Wrist Curls 15 - 25 1-2
15 Dumbbell External Rotation 20 - 25 1-2
16 Dumbbell Internal Rotation 20 - 25 1-2

20 - 30 minutes Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

* This can be done on a rest day from climbing. See Microcycle Tab (below)
17 Running, Rowing, Cycling (or other) - 2 to 4 days per week

See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | ww

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF US
ram (with Climbing) [<5.11/V4 ability]
ut with Climbing (1.5 - 3.0 hours)
DATE DATE DATE DATE DATE

ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS ROUTES/LAPS

WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS

REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS

WEIGHT WEIGHT WEIGHT WEIGHT WEIGHT

xercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com

st | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com

ISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE
 Beginner-level Program (with
Workout without Climbing - No Wa
SUGGESTED REPS & SETS
10 - 20 minutes of general warm-up activity, including mobility/flexibility exercises.
1 5 - 10 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity
2 5 - 10 minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching

7 - 11 sets of finger flexor & pull-muscle exercises (30 - 50 minutes) REPS

3 Pull-ups (body weight -- do half of estimated max # of reps) 1/2 of BW Max
4 Weighted Pull-ups (select weight that would limit you to 7 or 8 reps) 5
5 Fingerboard Short-Duration Repeaters (bodyweight 10"/30" x 6) 6

7 - 14 sets of Core Exercises 15 - 25 minutes) REPS

6 Hanging Knee Lifts 15 - 20
7 Supermans 16 - 20
8 Mountain Climber Plank 20 - 30
9 Feet-up Crunches 25 - 50

5 - 10 sets of Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises (20 - 40 minutes) REPS

* These can be done on a rest day from climbing; but don't skip--Important! See Microcycle tab.
10 Shoulder Press 15 - 20
11 Bench Press 20 - 25
12 Finger band extensions 15 - 20
13 Reverse Wrist Curls 15 - 25
14 Dumbbell External Rotation 20 - 25
15 Dumbbell Internal Rotation 20 - 25

20 - 30 minutes Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

* This can be done on a rest day from climbing. See Microcycle Tab (below)
16 Running, Rowing, Cycling (or other) - 2 to 4 days per week

See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Gui

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Re

DISCLAIMER & T
 vel Program (without climbing) [<5.11/V4 ability]
Workout without Climbing - No Wall/Gym Available (1 - 2 .5 hours)
UGGESTED REPS & SETS DATE DATE DATE
bility exercises.

SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS

1
3-5
3-5

SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS

2-4
2-3
1-3
2-4

SETS WEIGHT WEIGHT WEIGHT

! See Microcycle tab.
1-2
1-2
1-2
1-2
1-2
1-2

ab (below)

k Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Cl

ht 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com

DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE

 DATE DATE

WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS

REPS - SETS REPS - SETS

WEIGHT WEIGHT

arn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com

 MICROCYCLE #1
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

MICROCYCLE #2
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

MICROCYCLE #3
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

MICROCYCLE #4
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning

MICROCYCLE #5
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning
 LONG-TERM PROGRAMMING & NOTES
Program Focus: Learn climbing skills, refine technique, improve body composition, general conditioning, increase strength/end
Notes: Periodization not necessary. Repeat weekly microcycles indefinately, but take a 4- to 7-day break every 8 to 10 weeks.

Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Lea

Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | DISCLAIMER & TERMS OF USE

SATURDAY SUNDAY

SATURDAY SUNDAY

SATURDAY SUNDAY

SATURDAY SUNDAY

SATURDAY SUNDAY
onditioning, increase strength/endurance.
7-day break every 8 to 10 weeks.

prehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com

USE