Fattoria Lischeto, The Nature Of Cheese

By Gwen Sampé

1. Historical culinary research that produces modern accessible cheeses

2. Environmentally sound agricultural practices
3. Production the follows the rhythm of the seasons

On the organic farm and country inn Fattoria Lischeto, master cheese maker Giovanni Cannas
carries on a cheese making tradition that is authentic and firmly rooted to the soil of Tuscany. For
love of the land and the beauty that surrounds his magnificent farm, Cannas produces cheeses,
as well as other products such as pasta and olive oil, adhering to a belief in the importance of
polyculture and a commitment to environmentally sound means of production.

Cannas credits his grandmother for his devotion to cheese making, having learned the trade from
her. In 1990 he set out on a path that would eventually lead him to becoming known as one of the
best cheese makers in the region, with an international clientele that includes the organic
supermarket chains Wholefoods, based in the US, and Biocoop, based in France, Restaurant
Nora, the USA’s first certified organic restaurant, and Taiwan’s Yuen Foong Yu Biotech, as part of
their “Green & Safe” brand, is now importing Cannas’ olive oil. On the way he has amassed
numerous awards and has expanded his production to include olive oils from the olives in his
grove, pasta from wheat grown on the farm, salamis from free range pigs and naturally fermented
wines. All the cheeses are from raw organic milk, some, like the marzolino voltarrano, being made
only in certain seasons.

Situated on the rolling hills of Tuscany, not far from Volterra in central Tuscany, Fattoria Lischeto
occupies 150 hectares of land, and some 1000 sheep roam semi-wild pasturelands. From their
milk Cannas conjures up magnificent cheeses, based on his ongoing research of ancient recipes.
Perhaps his most famous cheese, Pecorino Balze Volterrane, can be traced back at least as far as
1400. It’s particularity, the inclusion of thistle rennet as well as animal rennet, giving it a
characteristic herbaceous flavour, with sweet notes that are unusual for a pecorino. The older
cheeses have a gentle sting on the palate. It can be appreciated both fresh and aged, ranging
from 7 days to over a year. In 2015 pecorino balze volterranne was given the designation D.O.P.
(denominations d’origine protetta) under the name Pecorino delle Balze Volterrane DOP.”

Pecorino Velathri (Velathri is the ancient name of Volterra) is considered to be a “cold” cheese
because of the low temperature at which it is produced. The smell is intense like fermented butter
with a distinct spicey taste. Velathri is an “evolving” cheese, that is, with age it transforms into
another cheese called pecorino la pecora nera. After being washed and spun by hand daily for 8
months and then dried on fir wood it assumes a different character and indeed a different cheese,
la pecora nera, is born. A cheese of strong character, the kitchen at Fattoria Lischeto suggests
using la pecora nera in old Tuscan dishes such as pici with mullet sauce alla Livornese.

Other interesting cheeses include the cave pecorino, pecorino di fossa. Matured for a period of
about three months in caves carved into the tuff, a technique known only by a few, the cheese is
complex and intense, taking on the smell of the earth in which it has matured. Pecorino Rosso
Volterrano, again an “evolved” cheese is the offshoot of pecorino degli sposi. Red pecorino
belongs to the history of Volterra and the technique by which it is produced is an ancient one. The
crust is treated with tomato and extra virgin olive to arrest the development of mould. This season
process takes about 60 days. Tricotta Divina, a soft white cheese, is one of Cannas’ new
creations, made by cooking fresh ricotta in a ventilated oven. This process does not alter the
delicate flavour of the ricotta but rather changes its consistency. Drizzled with olive oil, with
sprinklings of freshly ground black pepper and sea salt it goes wonderfully with fresh white wines.

This is only an overview of a few of the cheeses produced by Giovanni Cannas. His commitment
to organic polyculture, “for the love of the land” as he says, fits squarely into the current
obsession with fresh and real. From field to table, there is a balance in the surrounding nature and
in the finished product.

GWEN SAMPÉ