YO U R S U M M E R S TA R T E R K IT

Strawberries-
and-Cream
Gelato Cake!
(P. 80)

72GENIUS
GRILLING
UPGR ADES
JUICY
SMASH -
BURGERS
P. 24

SIZZLING
SKEWERS
P. 28

VIBRANT
VEGETABLE
SIDES
P. 82

AMAZING
ASADO
RECIPES
P. 90

PARTY-SIZE
ROSÉS P. 40

JUNE 2018
FAST AS
THE LEXUS HYBRID LINE
Climb behind the wheel. Strap yourself in. Bury the pedal.
Feel the roar. Then tighten your grip as the LC 500h’s
lightning-fast Multistage Hybrid Drive system propels you
from zero to 60 in a mere 4.7 seconds.1,2 Lexus Hybrids.
There’s more to h than just hybrid.

INSTANT ACCELERATION3 COMPARABLY PRICED TO

BOLD STYLING GAS MODELS3

LC 500h

Options shown. 1. Ratings achieved using the required premium unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 91 or higher. If premium fuel is not used,
performance will decrease. 2. Performance figures are for comparison only and were obtained with prototype vehicles by professional drivers using
special safety equipment and procedures. Do not attempt. 3. 2018 Lexus Hybrid base models compared to 2018 Lexus gas base models. ©2018 Lexus
 JUNE 2018

4 JUNE RECIPES

EDITOR’S
LETTER

8 Does it look different

around here?

OBSESSIONS

11 The chill-out edition

HANDBOOK

Your 21 How to plancha like

a pro, Mad Genius
skewers, a Most
Wanted salad,
and more

Summer 39
BOTTLE SERVICE

From the best mag-

nums of rosé
to frosty apricot

Starter 49
cocktails, here’s
what to drink now.

NEXT STOP

Switzerland’s

Kit secret wine region,

why one chef
loves Michigan,
and a destination-
worthy Nashville
restaurant
F E AT U R E S
AT H O M E

PHOTOGRAPHY: VICTOR PROTASIO; FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: HEATHER CHADDUCK HILLEGAS
74 OMG Gelato
Layers of homemade strawberry
61 The best cookbooks,
gear, and design
sorbet and strawberry and sour tips for your
kitchen
cream gelatos yield a creamy,
cool take on ice cream cake. TA ST E M A K E R S

69 How Stephen
82 Toasted, Smoked, Charred,
Pickled & Spiced
Starr came to cre-
ate some of
These vegetarian South Indian– the nation’s best
style grilling recipes will trans- restaurants
form your summer.
AT M Y TA B L E

90 Fellowship of Fire
A flame-fueled asado menu of
106 Why Gail Simmons
is obsessed with
summer berries
grilled tri-tip, sweet potatoes
drizzled in honey gastrique,
and more from Norberto
Piattoni’s homecoming party
in Montevideo, Uruguay

2 JUNE 2018 ON THE COV ER

season? Squash
blossoms.
32
Indulgence of the

photography by VICTOR PROTASIO; food styling by TORIE COX; prop styling by THOM DRIVER
© 2018 glacéau. glacéau ®, smartwater ® and label are registered trademarks of glacéau.
 JUNE RECIPES
FISH & SHELLFISH
Grilled Whole Fish with
Tomato-Fennel Sauce P. 98
Lobster-Stuffed Zucchini
Blossoms P. 34
Salmon Yakitori P. 29
MEAT & POULTRY
Beef Suya P. 29
BLT Smash-Burgers P. 24
Lamb Kofta P. 29
Mojo Pork Steak with Seared
Avocados and Oranges P. 23
Piri Piri Chicken P. 30
Sweet-and-Sour Chicken
Adobo P. 66
Tri-Tip Steak a la Parrilla with
Chimichurri and Roasted
Onions P. 95
23
STA F F- FAV O R I T E PA I R I N G
MOJO PORK STEAK WITH SEARED
AVOCADOS AND ORANGES
with Earthy Rioja Reserva:
2013 El Coto de Rioja Coto de Imaz
What Ray’s Pouring Now Executive Wine Editor
Ray Isle’s favorite things to drink this month
RAY ISLE 2015 HEITZ CELLAR
GRIGNOLINO ($23)
Napa Valley’s Heitz has been
making this light, strawberry-
scented red—from a truly
obscure Italian variety—for
decades now. It’s one of my
summertime go-tos and is great
when chilled down slightly.
4 JUNE 2018
SALADS & VEGETABLES
Beef Tallow Potatoes with
Spicy Paprika P. 95
Caramelized Coconut Green
Beans P. 89
Charred Chili-Lime Beans
P. 26
Coconut-Braised Collards P. 66
Corn Chaat with Tomato-
Tamarind Chutney P. 101
Cracked New Potatoes with
Fennel Raita P. 101
Grilled Greens with Popped
Mustard Seeds and Ginger
P. 89
Heirloom Tomato and Plum
Salad P. 95
Lemon-Pickled Carrots and
Beets P. 89
Little Gem Salad with Walnut
Vinaigrette and Urfa Crumble
P. 36
Peach and Cashew Biryani
Salad P. 101
Romaine Salad with Cracked
Olives and Salted-Lemon
Yogurt P. 89
2016 PACHERHOF KERNER
($27)
I always gravitate to northern
Italian whites during the summer
months, particularly from the
Alto Adige region. This is a recent
favorite, with a scent of fresh-cut
peaches and bright, lively acidity.
Bring on the grilled shrimp. Or
scallops. Or salmon …
Food & Wine (ISSN-0741-9015). June 2018, Vol. 41, No. 6. Published 12 times a year by Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, a subsidiary of Time Inc. Time Inc. is a wholly owned subsidiary of Meredith Corporation. Principal office: 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281. FOOD & WINE is a registered trademark of Time Inc. Periodicals
two years. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Wine, PO Box 4226, Toronto, ON M5W 5N7. Postmaster: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2); Non-Postal and Military Facilities: Send address
corrections to Food & Wine Magazine PO Box 62120 Tampa, FL 33662-2120. Food & Wine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, drawings, photographs or other works. All rights in letters sent to Food & Wine will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to unrestricted
postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Commercial Sales Agreement No. 40036840 (GST# 129480364RT). U.S. and Canada Subscribers: If the postal authorities alert us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within
98
STA F F-
FAVO R I T E
PA I R I N G
CHARRED
SWEET
POTATOES
right to edit and to comment editorially. Contents Copyright ©2018 Time Inc. Affluent Media Group. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Member of the Alliance for Audited Media.
WITH
Customer Service and Subscriptions: For 24-hour service, please use our website: foodandwine.com/customerservice. You can also call 800-333-6569 (813-979-6625 for international subscribers) or write to Food & Wine at P.O. Box 62160, Tampa, FL 33662.
ELECAMPANE
CREAM AND
HONEY GAS-
TRIQUE with
Argentine
Malbec: 2015
Ricardo Santos
Zucchini Blossom Burrata
Salad P. 34
Zucchini Blossom Frittata P. 34
Zucchini Blossom Spaghetti
P. 34
DESSERTS
Bumbleberry Buttermilk
Upside-Down Cake P. 104
Charred Sweet Potatoes with
Elecampane Cream and
Honey Gastrique P. 98
Piña Colada Shave Ice P. 12
Sour Cream Gelato P. 79
Strawberries-and-Cream
Gelato Cake P. 80
Strawberry Sorbet P. 79
Strawberry Gelato P. 79
COCKTAILS & SAUCES
Apricot Pisco Sour P. 44
Apricot Syrup P. 44
Bagnet Vert P. 58
Michael Corleone P. 44
Noyaux Oil P. 44
Venetian Spritz P. 42
KING’S ROW COFFEE KING’S
BREW NITRO COLD BREW
ILLUSTRATION: LAUREN TAMAKI
($10/2 CANS)
Chef Craig Shelton and coffee
impresario Sam Sabky teamed
up to create this creamy nitro
cold brew—newly available in
cans. Pro tip from the booze
editor: Add a shot of Kahlúa and
a little cream. Zero regrets.
 ADVERTISEMENT
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editor in chief
Hunter Lewis
digital content director,
food, travel & luxury
Stacey C. Rivera
executive creative director Robert Perino
deputy editor
executive editor
executive wine editor
Melanie Hansche
Karen Shimizu
Ray Isle
digital director Danica Lo
managing editor Caitlin Murphree Miller
FOOD & ED I TOR I AL A RT
restaurant editor Jordana Rothman creative director Winslow Taft
senior food editor culinary director art director Emily Johnson
Mary-Frances Heck Justin Chapple
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associate restaurant editor Elyse Inamine
books editor Anne Cain PHOTO
test kitchen manager Kelsey Youngman
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PRODUCT I ON
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COPY & R ESEARCH
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copy editor Erin Clyburn D I G I TAL
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senior engagement editor Meg Clark
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associate digital restaurant editor Maria Yagoda
digital reporter Elisabeth Sherman
CONT R I BUTORS
audience engagement editor Caroline Schnapp
Katie Akin, Dana Bowen, Paul Carstensen, digital photo editor Abby Hocking
Charlotte Druckman, Daniel Duane, Anthony digital operations editor Elsa Säätelä
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Sigal, Joshua David Stein, Andrew Zimmern
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Giulio Capua
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Tom Bair
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 EDITOR’S LETTER

From the
Home Office

1
EASY DRINKING
I’m hooked on two
eminently drinkable reds:
the effervescent 2015
Zanotto Rosso Col Fondo
Veneto, spotted first on
the menu of New York
City’s Café Altro Parad-
iso, and Valenti’s 2013
Norma Etna Rosso, a
juicy Sicilian dream of a
wine with fresh acidity.

2
Setting PLANCHA POWER
Trust me, you need a

a New Lodge carbon steel grid-

dle. I’ve used mine as a
plancha for years to
transform my gas grill

Table YOU’LL NOTICE A NEW LOOK in this issue of Food & Wine, a
redesign led by Creative Director Winslow Taft. It’s part of
an ongoing evolution toward crafting an even smarter,
into a restaurant-style
sear station for burgers,
fish, and vegetables.
Read more about it and
more fun, and more useful read at every turn.
get the recipes starting
on p. 21.
Our goals with this redesign were:
1. To deliver even more useful information that helps you to discover and
enjoy the best of food and drink and to elevate your everyday.
2. To bring food and drink forward. We’ve expanded Handbook, our
3
HOUSE BLEND
ever-popular weeknight cooking manual, and moved it up front.
My go-to spice mix now is
We’ve also made Bottle Service its own section to broaden our wine,
equal parts toasted and
craft beer, and spirits coverage led by Executive Wine Editor Ray Isle. slightly crushed cumin,
3. To aid navigation. We’ve created more distinct sections to sharpen coriander, Aleppo or Urfa
our editorial focus on the topics that matter to you, including travel, pepper, and sesame
seeds. Make a big batch
home, and a new back page authored by Special Projects Director
and deploy liberally to
Gail Simmons. add crunch, intrigue, and
4. To widen our lens. You’ll begin to see more stories from the wider pops of earthy flavor to
world of food and drink, from cities big and small, by a more diverse salads, grilled meats, or
whole grains.
set of writers.

Like any creative endeavor, F&W will continue to evolve, so feel free to
email me your thoughts using the address below. We’ll use your feed-
back to continue to refine the pages in the coming months as we usher
in the next class of Best New Chefs, toast at the top of the mountain at
the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, and celebrate the 40th anniversary of
Food & Wine—as always, in style.
ILLUSTRATION: LAUREN TAMAKI

HUNTER LEWIS
@NOTESFROMACOOK
HUNTER.LEWIS@MEREDITH.COM

8 JUNE 2018
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 OBSESSIONS
THE UPGRADE

BOOKMARKS

EDITORS’
PICKS
FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY

THE UPGRADE

A Better Shave With frosty pineapple

snowflakes and creamy coconut sorbet,
this chef’s riff on Hawaiian shave
ice is your summer’s sweetest treat.
Turn the page to dig in.
produced by ELYSE INAMINE photography by VICTOR PROTASIO JUNE 2018 11
 OBSESSIONS
Piña Colada Shave Ice
PHOTO P. 11

ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 14 HR

Hawaii, means one thing to Michelle Karr-Ueoka:

S
UMMER ON OAHU, 45 MIN; SERVES 8
shave ice. The pastry chef behind MW Restaurant in Honolulu still
remembers the first one she ordered when she was 6. It was a 1. Make the pineapple ice:
simple strawberry shave ice, a fluffy mound of ice drizzled with a Place 1 peeled and diced
neon-hued fruit syrup from Matsumoto Shave Ice, a famous stand pineapple and 1/4 cup granu-
lated sugar in a 1-gallon zip-
on the North Shore, and it triggered a lifelong obsession. Now,
lock plastic bag. Seal and
Karr-Ueoka has expanded from serving shave ice at MW Restaurant to
shake to combine; press
collaborating with chef Michael Mina on an upcoming concept in his food hall, excess air out of bag, and
The Street. The yet-to-be-named project will focus on burgers and shave ice reseal. Chill 8 hours.
milkshakes. But rather than dousing plain ice with flavored syrups, Karr-
2. Using a juicer, juice chilled
Ueoka came up with a new approach: She freezes fruit juice into blocks and pineapple mixture. Pour juice
shaves them down so each flake is saturated with pure fruit flavor. into an 8-inch square metal
baking pan. Freeze until solid,
about 3 hours.
3. Make the coconut sorbet:
Prepare an ice bath. Combine
1 3/4 cups water, 1 cup granu-
lated sugar, and 1 Tbsp. corn
syrup in a medium saucepan
over medium-high; cook, stir-
ring, until sugar is dissolved.
Stir in 3 cups canned coco-
nut cream. Place saucepan in
ice bath, and let stand until
mixture is cold (at least 50°F),
about 10 minutes. Pour mix-
ture into freezer bowl of an
electric ice cream maker, and
proceed according to manu-
facturer’s instructions. Pack
into an airtight freezer-safe
container; freeze until firm,
about 3 hours.
4. Using a fork, scrape
pineapple ice into fine crys-
tals. Scoop 1/2 cup coconut
sorbet into each of 8 bowls;
top each with 1/4 cup chopped
pineapple and 1/3 cup shaved
pineapple ice. Garnish with
lime zest and mint.

Michelle Karr-Ueoka puts the finishing touches on a shave ice of yuzu, strawberries, and cream.

PHOTOGRAPHY (TOP TO BOTTOM): LINNY MORRIS, KELLY PULEIO

The Ice Brigade Sample these four refreshingly icy

international sweets stateside this summer. NINA FRIEND

PALETAS HELADOS DE HALO-HALO KULFI (right)

Keep an eye out for PAILA Barb Batiste makes Chef Sujan Sarkar
Denise Mojica’s In Northern Virginia, her maximalist likes to experiment
pink truck in Austin: Ana Garcia mixes Filipino dessert in with this iconic
She’s collaborating the Ecuadorian L.A. with over a Indian ice cream by
with local bars on sorbet-like dessert dozen ingredients, using liquid nitro-
Mexican ice pop– with nutritious from ube (purple gen to shape the
cocktail hybrids. ingredients, such as yam) jam and ice frozen sweet at his
facebook.com/ quinoa and chia cream to ribbons of San Francisco
southernbunny seeds. sweettwist coconut flesh. restaurant.
shavedice ofecuador.com mybsweet.com roohsf.com

12 JUNE 2018
 Garden Gala

Backyard Bash

Fancy.
Find us in the deli
BUT NOT TOO

Fancy. TM
OBSESSIONS

I HEAR SHE’S A
REAL BITCH
“In this memoir,
Toronto restaurateur
BOOKMARKS Jen Agg talks frankly
about the restaurant
Summer Reading industry and every-
thing beautiful, dark,
List Wondering fulfilling, and disap-
pointing that comes
what to read next? with it. She keeps me
entertained—from
Six chefs share their laughing out loud to

favorite books. gasping—making for

a fun beach read.”
NICHOLAS ELMI, Royal
Boucherie in Philadelphia

COVERS (COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM TOP): COURTESY PENGUIN BOOKS, COURTESY TEN SPEED PRESS, COURTESY CLARKSON POTTER, COURTESY VIZ
COMING TO MY
SENSES
“Nothing is better
than getting a
little peek into the
upbringing of one
THE
of my heroes, Chez
PERFECTIONIST
Panisse’s Alice
Waters. It’s a light, “This book teaches
funny, and inspira- you where the great-
tional read.” JAMILKA est chefs of France
BORGES, The Independent came from and how
OISHINBO gastronomy evolved.
Brewing Company
and Hidden Harbor in “This Japanese Writer Rudolph
Pittsburgh manga series, by Chelminski highlights
Tetsu Kariya and Akira the moments that
Hanasaki, follows the motivate us and the

MEDIA, COURTESY PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE, COURTESY COACH HOUSE BOOKS

adventures of Shiro, moments that we can
a culinary journalist learn from.” JAIME
who has deep knowl- YOUNG, Sunday in
CURRY: EATING,
edge of Japanese Brooklyn in New York City
READING, AND
cuisine. Each volume RACE
is centered around
POK POK: THE “I don’t usually read
a theme, from ramen
DRINKING FOOD passages of books out
and gyoza to the joy
OF THAILAND loud to my husband,
of rice.” —JONATHAN
“What is there not WU, now-closed Nom but I couldn’t contain
to like? The title says Wah Tu in New York City myself with Naben
it all. Andy Ricker Ruthnum’s book. It’s
always gets it right a smart, 100-page
and comes correct.” masala of thoughts,
JAMES SYHABOUT, anecdotal muses, and
Commis, CDP, Old Kan historical theory all
Beer & Co., and Hawking about the charged
Bird in Oakland, complexities of curry.”
California; and Hawker CHEETIE KUMAR,
Fare in San Francisco Garland in Raleigh,
North Carolina

Western Belize | travelbelize.org

A CURIOUS PLACE
 OBSESSIONS How to Pack
Your Bottles
After a decade of road
trips, Steven Grubbs,
STEVEN wine director at Empire
GRUBBS
State South in Atlanta
and cooler connoisseur,
EDITORS’ PICKS
has mastered the art
of keeping bottles cool
The Art of Chill Trade in your old and intact.
clunky cooler and opt for Plan ahead. “Chill the bot-
tle in your fridge overnight.”
something a little more stylish.
Limit your ice intake.
“Use ice sparingly, just in
the bottom of the cooler.
That’s it.”

Layer up. “Place a few

bottles on top of the ice,
then put frozen cold packs
on top and repeat.”

Don’t hang out at the

cooler. “Obviously the
heat will affect the wines,
but ensure temperature
control by opening and
closing the cooler as little
as possible.”

ILLUSTRATION: LAUREN TAMAKI. PHOTOGRAPHY (COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM TOP): COURTESY YETI (2), COURTESY FOSTER & RYE, COURTESY
BEST FOR FAMILY BEST FOR SCENIC HIKES BEST FOR SUMMER BEST FOR ROSÉ-FUELED BEST FOR EPIC GLAMPING
CAMPING TRIPS PICNICS BEACH EXCURSIONS
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YETI TUNDRA 35 INSULATED WILLIAMS- BAN.DO SUPER BROWN LEATHER
$250 CANVAS COOLER SONOMA VINTAGE CHILL COOLER BAG COOLERS
Two-inch-thick $71 RED COOLER $32 $385–$1,495
insulated walls $75 Tote your wines—
Inspired by the These aren’t the
WILLIAMS-SONOMA, COURTESY BAN.DO, COURTESY JAYSON HOME
maintain subzero classic canvas Give your next or makings for a Coleman coolers of
temperatures in this rucksack, this alfresco feast some watermelon-based your childhood.
roomy cooler, and the insulated backpack is nostalgic flair with cocktail—in these Covered from head to
sturdy construction made of heavy-duty this fire-engine-red bright bags made toe in dark leather,
renders it nearly canvas and faux cooler. Bonus: with water-resistant made in America, and
indestructible—no leather for a sleek There’s a bottle matte leatherette. available in three
matter what kind of look. It’s the brand’s opener built in for bando.com sizes, they’re ready
trouble kids (or best-selling product. popping open brews for their close-up in
nearby critters) get fosterandrye.com or sodas. williams- your luxe yurt.
into. yeti.com sonoma.com jaysonhome.com

16 JUNE 2018
:H  G L S S H G  L W  L Q  ' 2 9 ( Š  ' D U N  & K R F R O D W H   G X V W H G  L W  Z L W K  D  N L F N  R I  F L Q Q D P R Q
',6&29(51(:'$5.&+2&2/$7(&,11$021'867('$/021'6

‹0DUVRU$IILOLDWHV Choose Pleasure TM

 THE VISION of
ROBERT MONDAVI
A Bold Look into the Future
An innovative tribute to the man who inspired the valley,
each blend of MAESTRO is a unique celebration of the vintage
and our estate vineyards, To Kalon and Wappo Hill.

RobertMondaviWinery.com/Visit-Us
Please enjoy our wine responsibly. © 2018 Robert Mondavi Winery, Oakville, CA.
 HANDBOOK
THE
TECHNIQUE

MAD GENIUS
TIPS

THE
INDULGENCE

MOST
WANTED
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET DICKEY; PROP STYLING: MINDI SHAPIRO LEVINE

THE TECHNIQUE

Heavy Metal A carbon steel plancha

instantly elevates weeknight grilling.
Turn the page to start cooking.
produced by MARYFRANCES HECK photography by JENNIFER CAUSEY JUNE 2018 21
 HANDBOOK
1 2 3

5 6

GRILLING A LA PLANCHA (“on the 1 2 3

griddle” in Spanish) is an easy upgrade
to your charcoal kettle grill or gas grill. LIGHT COALS POUR INTO GRILL ARRANGE COALS
Fill each of 2 charcoal Carefully pour charcoal Use a wok spatula to
A simple setup—a carbon steel plancha
chimneys with into kettle grill, and let arrange coals in an even
(see p. 26 for our pick) set over a grill approximately 3 pounds burn until coals are rectangular layer. Set grill
grate—opens a world of possibilities. of hardwood charcoal. covered in a thin layer of grate in place, and set
Marbled cuts of meat won’t flare up or Light charcoal and let ash, about 5 minutes. If plancha on grate over bed
burn until flames subside using gas grill, heat all of coals or gas flames. Let
dry out, veggies won’t fall through the
and coals glow bright red, zones to high (450°F to plancha heat 10 minutes.
grill grate, and hard-to-sear items, like about 25 minutes. 550°F).
citrus and avocados, can be charred
and caramelized. Master these basic 4 5 6
steps, and then check out our favorite
weeknight-friendly plancha recipes. PREP INGREDIENTS ADD INGREDIENTS SEAR
Toss vegetables and rub When plancha is very hot Sear ingredients until
meat with neutral oil. (water dropped on charred on one side,
Never add oil directly to plancha will bead), use and then flip and cook
the surface of the tongs to add ingredients to desired degree of
plancha (it may ignite). to plancha in a single layer. doneness.

22 JUNE 2018
 Mojo Pork Steak with Seared
5 Avocados and Oranges
ACTIVE 45 MIN; TOTAL 9 HR; SERVES 4

Citrus, garlic, and chiles season this

family-size blade steak, cut from the pork
shoulder. Seared quickly and sliced against
the grain, the meat is juicy and tender.

6 garlic cloves, peeled

2 medium red bell peppers, diced
1 cup fresh orange juice (from 3
oranges)
1/4 cup fresh lime juice (from 2 limes)
2 tsp. ground cumin
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. sweet paprika
1 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 (2-lb.) pork blade steak, trimmed
2 Tbsp. neutral oil, such as
grapeseed, divided
1 bunch scallions, cleaned
1 lb. baby bell peppers
1 orange, quartered
2 firm, ripe avocados, quartered
Flaky sea salt

1. Combine first 10 ingredients (through

cayenne) in a blender, and process until
smooth. Place pork in a large ziplock plas-
tic bag and add marinade. Seal and chill 8
hours or overnight. Remove from refriger-
ator 30 minutes before cooking.
2. Set up plancha for cooking (see
technique at left). Remove pork from
marinade. Pat dry with a paper towel, and
rub with 1 tablespoon oil. Toss scallions
and baby bell peppers with remaining 1
tablespoon oil.
3. Using tongs, place pork steak on plan-
cha. Add orange wedges and avocados,
cut sides down. Working in batches if nec-
essary, arrange baby bell peppers and
scallions around pork in a single layer. Sear
pork, turning occasionally, to desired
degree of doneness, 18 to 22 minutes for
medium. Sear avocados and orange until
cut sides are charred and release from
plancha, 5 to 7 minutes. Sear scallions and
baby bell peppers, turning often, until
charred, 5 to 6 minutes. As items are
EASY CLEANUP
cooked, transfer to a clean rimmed baking
Clean the plancha sheet. Let pork rest 10 minutes.
while it is still hot. Soak
4. Slice pork against grain and arrange on
several paper towels
with water, and roll a platter with orange, scallions, avocados,
them up together like a and baby bell peppers; sprinkle every-
cigar. Using a pair of thing with flaky sea salt.
tongs to hold paper
towels, rub surface of
plancha to remove WINE PAIRING
residue. Let plancha
Earthy Rioja Reserva: 2013 El Coto de
and grill cool before
removing plancha. Rioja Coto de Imaz

JUNE 2018 23
HANDBOOK

THE TECHNIQUE

BLT SMASH-BURGERS

Burgers are all about the ratio of

juicy meat to smoky crust. Smashing
them into a ripping hot plancha
cooks the meat quickly, so it doesn’t
dry out, while maximizing the
surface area that gets charred. The
resulting thin, crispy patty is perfect
for beefing up summertime BLTs.

TOTAL 30 MIN; SERVES 4

1 lb. 80% lean ground chuck

Kosher salt and freshly
ground black pepper

FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: MISSIE NEVILLE CRAWFORD

4 thick-cut bacon slices
1/4 cup best-quality mayonnaise
8 Pullman or brioche bread
slices, lightly toasted
1 ripe heirloom tomato, cut
into 8 slices
1 head butter lettuce, leaves
to press burgers firmly, smashing 5. Spread mayonnaise on 4 bread
separated
them into 1/4-inch-thick patties. Sear slices, and top each with 2 tomato
until almost cooked through, about slices and several lettuce leaves.
1. Set up a plancha for cooking
3 minutes. Sprinkle generously with Place a burger and 2 bacon pieces
(see p. 22 for technique).
salt and pepper, and flip burgers. on each, and cover with remaining 4
2. While plancha heats, divide beef Cook burgers 1 minute; remove to a bread slices. Cut into triangles and
into 4 equal portions and roll plate to rest. serve immediately.
between palms to form loosely
4. Place bacon slices on plancha and
packed balls.
cook until crisp and fat is rendered, WINE PAIRING
3. Lay beef balls on plancha, leaving about 2 minutes and 30 seconds per
Full-bodied Washington red blend:
4 inches between balls. Sear 1 min- side. Transfer to plate with burgers.
2016 Grounded Wine Co. Collusion
ute. Use the back of a large spatula Cut bacon strips in half crosswise.

Southeastern Belize | travelbelize.org

A CURIOUS PLACE
 GEAR GUIDE
HANDBOOK
The essentials for
plancha cooking
THE TECHNIQUE

CHARRED CHILI-LIME BEANS

A quick stint on the plancha transforms beans in Plancha

their shells into a delectably smoky snack; chili-lime
salt elevates them further. Fresh or frozen edamame,
English peas, or chickpeas work equally well here.
TOTAL 30 MIN; SERVES 4 TO 6 1. Set up a plancha for cooking
(see p. 22 for technique).
1 lb. fresh or thawed frozen
beans in pods, such as 2. In a large bowl, toss beans with
edamame, English peas, or oil. Transfer beans to plancha and
chickpeas arrange in a single layer. Cook
1 Tbsp. neutral oil beans until charred on one side, 2
1 tsp. chili-lime salt (such as to 3 minutes. Use a long-handled
Tajín Clásico Seasoning), or spatula to toss beans. Cook until
more to taste
tender, 1 to 3 minutes, depending
on type and freshness of beans.
3. Use spatula to transfer cooked
beans to bowl; add chili-lime salt.
Toss to coat beans, and serve
immediately.
We love the Lodge
Carbon Steel Griddle
for its handles, slick
cooking surface, and
generous 18- by
10-inch area that fits
on standard
charcoal grills.
Wok Spatula
Intended for cooking
over high heat in
bowl-shaped woks, this
long-handled spatula is
perfect for spreading
red-hot coals.

Grilling Gloves
Made from flame-
retardant material,
grilling gloves make it
comfortable to work
over a hot bed of coals.

ILLUSTRATIONS: EMILY JOHNSON

26 JUNE 2018
 THERE ARE NO SHORTCUTS TO MAKING
EXCEPTIONAL ICED TEA.
As a Tea Master, I insist that our tea leaves are gently rolled
and brewed in smaller batches for smooth, delicious iced tea.

3XUH/HDI 7HD0DVWHU
©2018 PURE LEAF and the PURE LEAF logo are registered trademarks of the Unilever Group of Companies used under license.

Alex White,

3XUH/HDI
2XU
 7KLQJLV7HD
 LONG BAMBOO
SKEWERS
Wood provides friction
to thin, ribbonlike
slices of beef short rib
in Beef Suya. Thread
the meat onto these
skewers so it doesn’t
slip when flipped.

METAL SKEWERS
Metal skewers
conduct heat, which
helps ground meats,
like the lamb in this
kofta, cook evenly. A
hoop-style handle
makes them easy to
move around the grill.

MAD GENIUS TIPS

Stick It to ’Em Justin Chapple’s

favorite method for the summer is
a simple one: Put dinner on a stick.
SKEWERS ARE A GRILL’S BEST FRIEND —that’s
a declaration I’ll proudly stand behind. And
I’m not alone. Cultures from around the
globe have used these humble cooking tools
for ages. After all, skewers make cooking
over fire quick, easy, and fun. The recipes
JUSTIN CHAPPLE here are inspired by some of my favorites—
yakitori, satay, suya—and teach a valuable
lesson: Not all skewers are created equal.
ILLUSTRATION: LAUREN TAMAKI

Whether you choose small bamboo skewers

or double-prong metal ones, each has a
purpose all its own.

28 JUNE 2018 by JUSTIN CHAPPLE

 Lamb Kofta
ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR
SERVES 4
Small, oval kofta (meat patties)
are irresistible wrapped in
warm pita and slathered with
a tahini-laced yogurt sauce.
1 1/2 lb. ground lamb
1/2 cup finely chopped
mint, plus more for
serving
2 Tbsp. pomegranate
molasses
2 Tbsp. hot paprika
2 Tbsp. finely grated
onion
3 garlic cloves, finely
grated
1 Tbsp. kosher
salt, plus more for
seasoning
1 1/2 Tbsp. black
pepper, plus more for
seasoning
1 cup plain yogurt (not
Greek-style)
2 Tbsp. tahini
1 1/2 Tbsp. fresh lemon
juice
1/2 tsp. sumac, plus more
for garnish
Canola oil, for
brushing
4 stainless steel skewers
Warm pita, for serving
Lemon wedges, for
serving
1. Combine lamb, mint,
molasses, paprika, onion,
garlic, salt, and pepper in a
large bowl; mix well. Using
clean hands, shape lamb mix-
ture into 8 (1-inch-thick) oval
patties. Refrigerate until
chilled, about 30 minutes.
2. Whisk together yogurt,
tahini, lemon juice, and
sumac in a small bowl. Sea-
son with salt and pepper, and
garnish with sumac.
3. Preheat a grill to medium
(350°F to 450°F), or heat a
grill pan over medium; brush
grate with oil. Thread 2 pat-
ties onto each skewer; season
DOUBLE-PRONG lightly with salt. Grill, turning
SKEWERS
occasionally, until lightly
These skewers
charred and slightly pink in
prevent delicate
Salmon Yakitori from center, 10 to 12 minutes.
falling apart during Transfer to platter. Serve with
grilling. Find them at pita, mint, lemon wedges, and
Williams-Sonoma. yogurt sauce.
Beef Suya
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 6 HR 25
MIN; SERVES 4
Suya, a popular Nigerian
street food, is typically eaten
straight off the grill. This ver-
sion uses quick-cooking slices
of tender beef short rib, which
are marinated in a rich peanut
paste before grilling.
1/2 cup unsalted roasted
peanuts
1 Tbsp. garlic powder
1 Tbsp. onion powder
1 Tbsp. chili powder
2 tsp. ground ginger
1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus
more for seasoning
1 Tbsp. black pepper
1/4 cup canola oil, plus
more for brushing
1 1/2 lb. boneless beef short
ribs, frozen 20 minutes
and very thinly sliced
lengthwise
12 large wooden skewers,
soaked in water 1 hour
1/2 lemon
Sliced red onion,
tomato, and cucumber,
for serving
1. Pulse peanuts in a food
processor until finely
chopped. Add garlic powder,
onion powder, chili powder,
ginger, salt, and pepper; pulse
to combine. With processor
running, gradually add oil
until a thick paste forms.
2. Combine short ribs and
peanut mixture in a large
bowl; toss to coat evenly.
Cover and refrigerate at least
6 hours or up to overnight.
3. Preheat a grill to medium-
high (about 450°F), or heat a
grill pan over medium-high,
and brush grate with oil.
Thread short ribs onto skew-
ers, brush lightly with oil, and
season lightly with salt. Grill,
turning once or twice, until
lightly charred and nearly
cooked through, 3 to 5 min-
utes. Transfer to a platter;
squeeze lemon half over
skewers. Serve with sliced red
onion, tomato, and cucumber.
Salmon Yakitori
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 55 MIN
SERVES 4
This not-so-traditional yakitori
(Japan’s famous skewer of
sizzling chicken) pairs rich
salmon and crisp bok choy
with a vinegar-scented mari-
nade that doubles as a sauce
for serving.
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup mirin
1/4 cup packed light brown
sugar
1/4 cup unseasoned rice
vinegar
4 (4- to 5-oz.) skinless
salmon fillets, cut into
2-inch pieces
Canola oil, for
brushing
4 baby bok choy, large
outer leaves removed
and bulbs halved
lengthwise
2 large scallions,
trimmed and cut into
2-inch lengths
4 double-prong skewers
Kosher salt
Toasted sesame seeds,
for garnish
Steamed rice, for
serving
1. Whisk together soy sauce,
mirin, brown sugar, and vine-
gar in a large bowl until sugar
dissolves. Reserve 1/3 cup of
the marinade. Add salmon to
bowl, mix well, and refrigerate
30 minutes.
2. Preheat a grill to high
(450°F to 550°F), or heat a
grill pan over high, and brush
grate with oil. Remove salmon
from marinade. Thread sal-
mon, bok choy, and scallions
onto skewers. Brush with oil,
and season lightly with salt.
3. Grill, turning once, until bok
choy and scallions are lightly
charred in spots and salmon
is medium within, 6 to 8 min-
utes. Transfer to a platter, and
garnish with toasted sesame
seeds. Serve with steamed
rice and reserved marinade.
 HANDBOOK Piri Piri Chicken
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 25
MIN; SERVES 4

This quick, handheld riff on

piri piri chicken is the ultimate
summer grilling recipe. The
fiery bites of chicken get their
heat from African bird’s eye
chiles (aka piri piri chiles).

1 small red bell pepper,

chopped
1/2 cup loosely packed
fresh cilantro leaves,
plus more for garnish
1 small shallot, chopped
2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive
oil
1 Tbsp. paprika
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 piri piri or other bird’s
eye chiles, stemmed
1 1/2 tsp. dried oregano
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 1/4 lb. boneless skinless
chicken thighs, cut
into 1-inch pieces
Canola oil, for
brushing
1 lb. shishito peppers
16 small wooden skewers,
soaked in water 30
minutes GRILLING WINES
The best wines for
1. Place bell pepper, cilantro, these skewers
shallot, vinegar, olive oil,
paprika, garlic, chiles, oreg-
Smoky
ano, and salt in a food proces-
The char of oak barrels
sor; process until smooth.
complements smoky
Reserve 1/2 cup of the mari- flavors off the grill. Go
nade. Combine chicken and for barrel-aged whites,
remaining marinade in a large like most California
bowl, and refrigerate for at Chardonnays, or
substantial reds with
least 1 hour and up to 3 hours.
oak influence—Spanish
2. Preheat a grill to medium- Riojas or Malbecs from
high (about 450°F), or heat a Argentina.
grill pan over medium-
high, and brush grate Sweet & Sticky
with oil. Thread shishitos Counterintuitively,
and chicken onto skewers. sweet flavors make
Grill, turning occasionally, wines seem less sweet.
Try the Salmon Yakitori
until just cooked through, skewers with a lightly
about 8 minutes. Transfer to off-dry, zingy Loire
a platter, and garnish with Valley Chenin Blanc for
cilantro. Serve with reserved a perfect pairing.
SHORT BAMBOO marinade.
SKEWERS Spicy
Perfect for the High-alcohol wines can
appetizer-size Piri Piri make spicy heat (as in
Chicken, these Piri Piri Chicken) too
skewers act as both a intense. Go for lighter,
cooking and serving brightly fruity wines like
utensil. Plus, they’re Chilean Sauvignon
biodegradable! Blanc or Beaujolais
from France.

30 JUNE 2018
 SPH[LZ1= 
1<:;05=PUL`HYKZ >PULY`33*7HZV9VISLZ*((SS9PNO[Z9LZLY]LK1<:;05HUKHJJVTWHU`PUNSVNVZHYL[YHKLTHYRZVM1<:;05=PUL`HYKZ >PULY`33*VYP[ZHɉ

Are 107ºF days

necessary to
create wine ideally
served at 55º?
The hot days and cold nights in Paso Robles
create the perfect storm for growing exceptional
grapes, which translates to extraordinary wines.
Exceptional from every angle.
 HOW TO CLEAN
HANDBOOK
ZUCCHINI
BLOSSOMS
1
Using kitchen tweezers
or long, thin scissors,
clip away the pointed
sepals where the stem
meets the flower.

2
Blow into the flower
so the petals separate
naturally. Pluck out
the stamen or pistils
from inside.

3
Use a pastry brush
to gently remove any
dirt or pollen.

FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: HEATHER CHADDUCK HILLEGAS. ILLUSTRATION: LAUREN TAMAKI
THE INDULGENCE

Flower Power Wondering what to do

with zucchini blossoms? Take your
cues from Melissa Rodriguez.
WITH THEIR SILKEN, RUFFLED PETALS, zucchini blossoms
are almost too pretty to eat. Almost, stresses Melissa
Rodriguez, executive chef at Del Posto in New York City.
“While they are delicate, they aren’t precious,” says
Rodriguez, who loves the blossoms’ mild summer squash
flavor. She tears the flowers to toss with cooked pasta,
MELISSA RODRIGUEZ
shreds them into frittatas, and stuffs the whole blooms
with lobster meat, fresh mint, and mascarpone (recipes
on p. 34). “They’re only at the Greenmarket for a few
weeks at the beginning of summer,” she says, “and as a
chef, I get so excited.”

32 JUNE 2018 photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

 QUICK ZUCCHINI
HANDBOOK
BLOSSOM RECIPES

Frittata
In a small skillet, sauté
2 chopped scallions
and 4 cleaned and
sliced zucchini
blossoms in 1 Tbsp.
unsalted butter. Add
3 beaten eggs, stir to
combine, and bake in
a 325°F oven until set.

Spaghetti
Toss 1/2 lb. cooked
spaghetti with 1 cup
halved Sun Gold
tomatoes, 8 torn
zucchini blossoms, a
handful of basil, a
healthy glug of olive oil,
a few grinds of black
pepper, and a splash of
pasta cooking liquid
until saucy.

Burrata Salad
Dress 1 cup each
cleaned, torn zucchini
blossoms, pea
tendrils, and arugula
with olive oil, lemon
juice, and lemon zest.
Serve with burrata
and grilled bread.

THE INDULGENCE

LOBSTER-STUFFED ZUCCHINI BLOSSOMS

Fill zucchini blossoms with mascarpone and lobster before
frying them for a summer appetizer. You can substitute crab,
shrimp, or even diced fresh zucchini for the lobster.
TOTAL 30 MIN; SERVES 4
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 1/2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice,
divided
1 Tbsp. minced preserved
lemon rind
2 1/2 tsp. Aleppo pepper, divided
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
for sprinkling
1 (8-oz.) container
mascarpone cheese
7 large eggs, divided
2 tsp. lemon zest
2 Tbsp. chopped mint leaves
1 lb. cooked and picked
lobster, crab, or shrimp
meat, very finely chopped
24 zucchini blossoms
2 cups all-purpose flour
(about 8 1/2 oz.)
2 cups toasted fine
breadcrumbs
Neutral oil, such as
grapeseed, for frying
1. Whisk together olive oil, 1 1/2 table-
spoons lemon juice, preserved
lemon rind, 1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pep-
per, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a bowl.
2. Whisk together mascarpone, 2
eggs, lemon zest, mint, remaining 2
tablespoons lemon juice, remaining
2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper, and
remaining 1 teaspoon salt in a sepa-
rate bowl until smooth. Stir in lob-
ster. Transfer to pastry bag or large
ziplock plastic bag; if using a ziplock
bag, snip a hole in bottom corner.
3. Clean zucchini blossoms (p. 32).
4. Insert tip of piping bag into center
of blossom without separating pet-
als more than necessary. Carefully
pipe 1 tablespoon lobster mixture
into each blossom. Gently press
outside of blossom to seal. Repeat
with remaining blossoms and lob-
ster mixture. Arrange filled blos-
soms on a rimmed baking sheet.
5. Beat remaining 5 eggs in a shal-
low dish. Place flour and bread-
crumbs in separate shallow dishes.
Dredge filled blossoms in flour; gen-
tly brush off excess. Dip blossoms in
egg, then dredge in breadcrumbs.
6. Poor oil to a depth of 3/4 inch in
a high-sided skillet; heat over
medium until shimmering. Working
in batches, fry blossoms until a
delicate, golden crust forms, 90
seconds to 2 minutes.
7. Using a spider, transfer blossoms
to a paper towel–lined baking sheet
to drain. Sprinkle with salt. Serve hot
with preserved lemon vinaigrette.
WINE PAIRING
Unoaked Oregon Chardonnay: 2015
Chehalem Inox

34 JUNE 2018
Haven’t checked my phone
in 27 dunks.

Uncommonly Good
®
 HANDBOOK
Little Gem Salad with Walnut
Vinaigrette and Urfa Crumble
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 45 MIN; SERVES 6

Urfa biber is a sweet-smoky Turkish chile

that pairs with the rich bitterness of wal-
nuts in this crunchy salad.

2 cups walnuts
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup water
1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1/4 tsp. black pepper
2 tsp. ground Urfa biber (Urfa
pepper) or Aleppo pepper
4 red radishes or baby white turnips
(such as hakurei turnips)
2/3 cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf
parsley leaves
2/3 cup loosely packed fresh tarragon
leaves
2/3 cup loosely packed fresh mint
leaves
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 lemon wedge
6 heads Little Gem lettuce or 2
heads romaine lettuce, trimmed
and leaves separated

1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Spread walnuts

in a single layer on a rimmed baking
sheet, and toast in preheated oven until
browned through center, about 20 min-
utes. Let cool.
2. Transfer walnuts to bowl of a food pro-
cessor. Pulse until nuts reach a pebble-
like consistency, about 8 times. Reserve
1/4 cup chopped walnuts.

3. Process remaining walnuts until they

form a smooth nut butter, 1 to 2 minutes.
With food processor running, add lemon
juice, 1/2 cup water, vinegar, 1 1/2 teaspoons
salt, and black pepper. Process until
creamy and emulsified, about 1 minute.
Transfer dressing to a bowl, and refriger-
MOST WANTED ate until ready to use.
4. Place reserved 1/4 cup chopped walnuts FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

Endless Summer Chefs Sarah
Hymanson and Sara Kramer make
the most of California’s bounty.
WE FOUND A STUNNER OF A SALAD that stands up to
RECIPE FROM grilled meats and veg at Kismet in L.A., where Best
KISMET New Chef alumni Sarah Hymanson and Sara Kramer
LOS ANGELES
drape greens in a sumptuous dressing of toasted
walnuts and Urfa pepper. “Nut butter is a great way
to make a salad dressing creamy without adding
dairy,” Hymanson says. The result—rich, smoky, and
complex—is a salad we’ll be eating all summer.
in a small bowl; sprinkle with Urfa biber,
and stir to combine. Set aside.
5. Using a mandoline, thinly shave rad-
ishes. Toss together radishes, parsley,
tarragon, and mint in a medium bowl.
Drizzle with olive oil; squeeze lemon
wedge over mixture. Sprinkle with
remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt.
6. To serve, gently toss together lettuce
leaves and 3 tablespoons walnut dressing
in a large bowl; divide among 6 plates. Top
evenly with dressed radish-herb mixture
and Urfa crumble. Serve with remaining
walnut dressing.

36 JUNE 2018 photography by JENNIFER CAUSEY

© 2018 MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL , INC.

Our chef is a champion chocolatier. But don’t

worry our personal trainers are amazing too.
When Roger Fok isn’t creating desserts at the JW Marriott® Hong Kong he wows culinary juries with
his edible art. And we encourage him to do so. Because if he can impress at the Salon Culinaire
Mondial, he’ll have no problem designing the perfect chocolate swan for a meticulous bride.

That’s The JW Treatment.®

jwmarriott.com
 BOTTLE SERVICE
FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: HEATHER CHADDUCK HILLEGAS

W H AT TO
DRINK
NOW

TA ST E
TEST

W H AT TO D R I N K N O W C O C K TA I L
HOUR
Big Pink Turn the page for the W H AT ’ S
latest trend in pink wine: king- BREWING

size bottles, perfect for a party.

by RAY ISLE photography by VICTOR PROTASIO JUNE 2018 39
 40
BOTTLE SERVICE

JUNE 2018
AS ROSÉ HAD ITS DAY? Well, in
short, no. Sales continued to
skyrocket last summer, Instagram is
awash in selfies of rosé-wielding
H partyers, and, what the heck, a
chilled glass of dry pink wine is
incredibly refreshing. But when I
from the Wines of Provence Council
and IRI. (A related trend is the sea-
heard that the latest de rigueur
side Côte d’Azur penchant for serv-
accessory for superyacht buyers
ing a piscine de rosé. The term
along the Mediterranean coast of
basically means “a swimming pool
France is a supersized wine
of rosé,” and that’s what it is: rosé
refrigerator to accommodate
poured into a goblet full of ice.)
supersized bottles of rosé, I did
A magnum, by the way, is the
wonder whether we’d reached a
equivalent of two regular bottles.
rosé point of no return. (Hey, is that
Not every winery contributing to
a shark? Should we ... jump it?)
the ocean of rosé now in the market
But, also, I get it. Rosé is a party
has caught onto this trend, but
wine; it’s fun in a bottle. The bigger
more and more have. And even
the bottle, the more the fun. Plus,
larger bottles are sometimes
it’s one of the most aesthetically
available: three-liter (usually called
appealing wines, with its multifari-
a Jeroboam), six-liter (Methuselah),
ous shades of pink, and a magnum
or even 15-liter (Nebuchadnezzar—
(or bigger) only serves to show off
the equivalent of 20 regular bottles).
its light-catching pizzazz. Statistics
You won’t have much luck finding
bear this out: In France, sales of
them at the supermarket, but if you
magnums of rosé from Provence
go to a good wine shop, ask; often
alone more than quintupled from
they can be ordered.
2005 to 2016, according to data
Here are nine rosés that are both
impressively good and nationally
available in magnums. Seek them
out. Throw a party. Why not?
Summer is here.
SUPERSIZE IT
This giant 15-liter
Nebuchadnezzar
can be yours ... for
$600!
 The Best Big
Bottles to Try
NV NAVERAN CAVA
BRUT ROSÉ ($35)
The family behind this
lively Spanish sparkler
has been growing grapes
for over a century. It’s
made from Pinot Noir
plus the local variety
Parellada, grown in
organically farmed
vineyards high up in
Spain’s Penedès region.
2017 AIX ROSÉ ($36)
Originally a truffle
orchard, the Provençal
estate where the grapes
for this crisp wine are
grown was converted to
vineyards in the early
1900s. The Cinsaut and
Syrah in the blend give
the bright fruit here a
faint hint of spiciness.
2017 TRIENNES
ROSÉ ($39)
Triennes, east of Aix-en-
Provence, is owned by
two Burgundy stars:
Aubert de Villaine of
Domaine de la Romanée-
Conti and Jacques
Seysses of Domaine
Dujac. That exalted
lineage isn’t reflected in
the modest price of this
floral bottling.
JUNE 2018
The Perfect Temp Try for
50˚F to 53˚F or so. Colder,
and you lose the wine’s
complexity; warmer, you
lose the freshness.
41
2017 FLEUR DE MER
ROSÉ ($42)
Winemaker Florian
Lacroux is the talent
behind this pale pink–
hued, watermelon-
scented wine. It’s a blend
of various southern
French varieties:
Grenache, Syrah,
Mourvèdre, Cinsaut,
Carignane, and more.
2017 M DE MINUTY
ROSÉ ($44)
The family-owned
Château Minuty was
established in the 19th
century overlooking the
Saint-Tropez peninsula.
It makes a range of
Grenache-based rosés;
this, the most affordable,
has delicate red currant
and orange flavors.
2017 CHÂTEAU
D’AQUERIA TAVEL ROSÉ
($45)
The wines of Tavel, the
only official French
appellation that solely
makes rosé, are more
substantial and complex
than most inexpensive
bottlings. Aqueria is one
of Tavel’s flagship
producers, and its 2017
is full of wild berry and
spice flavors.
THE RULES OF BIG ROSÉ
Chill It Quick A bucket of ice
and water is the fastest way
to chill any bottle of wine;
allow 25 to 30 minutes for a
magnum to reach optimum
temperature.
2017 WHISPERING
ANGEL ROSÉ ($50)
Proprietor Sacha Lichine’s
attention to quality hasn’t
flagged for this impressive
bottling, a forerunner of
the current rosé boom.
Silkily textured, it’s worth
the extra few dollars.
2017 MIRAVAL ROSÉ
CÔTES DE PROVENCE
($60)
Despite its movie-star
associations (the estate is
owned by Brad Pitt and
Angelina Jolie, divorce
notwithstanding), Miraval
is impressively nuanced
thanks to a partnership
with acclaimed wine-
maker Marc Perrin of
Château de Beaucastel.
2017 LA BARGEMONE
CUVÉE MARINA ROSÉ
($70)
This historic property,
founded in the 13th
century by the Knights
Templar, uses over 100
acres of its vines for rosé.
Only the very best fruit
goes into the winery’s
currant-scented, limited
production Cuvée Marina.
Pour for More As a general
rule of thumb, a magnum
(double the size of a
regular bottle) holds about
10 glasses of wine.
 BOTTLE SERVICE TA ST E T E ST

Upgrade Your Olive You can

skip most jarred specimens—for
the best garnishes for your
cocktail, head to the olive bar.

CERIGNOLA
Large, meaty, and
rarely pitted, Cerignola
olives are almost an
appetizer. Thread a
cocktail pick around the
pit, or serve these in
a small dish alongside a
dry gin martini.

QUEEN
Bigger in size and meatier
than Manzanillas, Queen
olives beg to be stuffed
with anchovies, almonds, MANZANILLA
garlic, or blue cheese.
They make a festive The one exception to the
addition to a Bloody Mary. “no jars!” rule are these
premium Spanish olives
stuffed with sweet

FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: HEATHER CHADDUCK HILLEGAS. ILLUSTRATION: WINSLOW TAFT
pimientos to balance their
bitterness. Dirty martini
fan? Manzanilla brine is
the classic addition.

CASTELVETRANO
Tender, sweet, and
buttery, these Italian
olives are an ideal garnish
for that sweet-bitter
aperitivo, the Venetian
Spritz (see recipe at Now Make This: Venetian Spritz
right). Their gentle brini- Pour 1 oz. Aperol and 1
ness pairs beautifully oz. Campari into an
with the traditional, ice-filled wine glass. Top
orange-scented drink. with 2 oz. Prosecco and
2 oz. club soda. Garnish
with an orange slice and
a Castelvetrano olive.

42 JUNE 2018 by MARYFRANCES HECK

location, location,
location

Cherry Pie California Tri-County Pinot Noir showcases the

best of each county to create a wine with a distinct sense
of place. From gravelly, well-draining sites in Monterey
which create rich, concentrated earthy flavors, to elevated
vineyards on steep slopes in the Sonoma Coast which result
in lush, juicy fruit flavors, and warm, sandy soils in Santa
Barbara which provide intense aromatics and acidity. Each
cluster begins with the influence of its surroundings.

Welcome to our neighborhood,

to our home, to the vineyards of Cherry Pie wines.

©2018 Cherry Pie

 BOTTLE SERVICE
Waste Not, Want More
Using the whole fruit yields
two delicious cocktails.
STEP 1
Halve and Pit 4
Ripe Apricots
F L ES H & PEEL
Apricot Syrup
MAKES: ABOUT 2 CUPS
Combine 3/4 cup water
and 1 1/3 cups granulated
sugar in a small saucepan
over medium-high.
Cook, stirring constantly,
until sugar is just
dissolved, about 5
minutes. Combine warm
sugar mixture and 8 fresh
apricot halves in a
blender. Blend until
smooth. Add a pinch of
ascorbic acid (optional)
to help the syrup maintain
a bright color. Place a fine
mesh sieve over a
bowl; strain syrup. Store
in a sealed container
for up to a week.
STEP 2
Make Your
Cocktail
C O C K TA I L H O U R
Pit to Peel One man’s Apricot Pisco Sour
Fruity apricot syrup
compost is another enhances pisco, Peruvian
muscat brandy.
bartender’s treasure. Combine 1 large pasteur-
ized egg white, 2 oz. pisco,
3/4 oz. Apricot Syrup, and 1
AT LEAST THAT’S HOW bartender Nicolas Torres sees
oz. fresh lime juice in a
all the pineapple rinds, citrus peels, and fruit pits cocktail shaker filled with
that come his way at True Laurel in San Francisco ice. Shake vigorously for 15
(truelaurelsf.com). “Behind the bar, we waste way seconds; strain into a
coupe glass. Let stand 30
too much,” says Torres. “I look at produce and try to
seconds. Top with a few
see what I can create using all of it.” Torres drops of Angostura
collaborated with F&W Best New Chef alum David bitters; stir once to swirl.
Barzelay of Lazy Bear to open True Laurel, where
Torres uses the whole fruit, from seed to skin, to yield STEP 3
killer closed-loop cocktails. Make the most of your Enjoy Your
next apricot haul with these two zero-waste drinks. Drink!
44 JUNE 2018
PIT
Noyaux Oil
MAKES: 1/2 CUP
Place 4 apricot pits in a
plastic bag; smash with a
rolling pin until kernels
are exposed. Place shells
and kernels in a Mason
jar; add 1/2 cup refined
peanut oil. Let mixture
stand at room tempera-
ture for at least a week,
or sous vide it: Place
mixture in a resealable
plastic bag, removing
excess air. Clip sealed
bag, with seal above
water, to side of a sous
vide machine. Set at
140°F, and cook 2 hours.
Strain before serving;
discard solids.
FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY. ILLUSTRATION: WINSLOW TAFT
Michael Corleone
Scotch and fragrant
noyaux oil feature in
bartender Nicolas
Torres’ elevated take on
the Godfather cocktail.
Fill a rocks glass with
large ice cubes. Add 1 1/2
oz. unpeated Scotch,
1 oz. amaretto, and
3 drops Noyaux Oil, and
stir to combine. Squeeze
an orange peel over
the cocktail, and add
peel to glass.
by ELYSE INAMINE
TO UNDERSTAND OUR
COMPLEX FINISH,
IT HELPS TO KNOW
WHERE IT ALL STARTS.
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FUXVKLQJLWZLWKDWZRWRQYROFDQLFVWRQHZKHHOFDOOHGDWDKRQD³
DQDQFLHQWODERULQWHQVLYHPHWKRG7KHDJDYHMXLFHLVWKHQIHUPHQWHG
DQGGLVWLOOHGZLWKWKHÀEHUUHVXOWLQJLQDFRPSOH[HDUWK\WDVWH

7KHSHUIHFWZD\WRHQMR\3DWUyQLVUHVSRQVLEO\+DQGFUDIWHGDQGLPSRUWHGH[FOXVLYHO\IURP0H[LFRE\7KH3DWUyQ6SLULWV&RPSDQ\/DV9HJDV19DEY
 BOTTLE SERVICE W H AT ’ S B R E W I N G

Art of Beer NOT THAT LONG AGO, “good” beer was only sold
When the in bottles. Then, in 2002, Colorado’s Oskar
Blues Brewery decided to put its Dale’s Pale Ale
can is the in aluminum—widely recognized as the first
canvas, modern American craft brewer to do so. Now,
brewers are increasingly turning toward cans for
brewers craft beer’s hippest new styles, like New England
get wild. IPAs. Along with this trend, cutting-edge breweries
have also pushed boundaries to make sure the
imagery on the outside of those cans is as amazing
as the liquid inside. Manic pixies, unicorn-fighting
ninjas, streams of abstract color—you name it,
1 anything goes. Here are seven of our favorites, but
there are many more to discover.

1. WHINER BEER
COMPANY LE TUB
($13/SIX 12-OZ. CANS)

A cartoonish depiction of a 5. SPITEFUL BREWING

2 3
man bathing with his cat?
Nontraditional to say the
least, but fully appropriate
for Chicago’s Whiner Beer,
a specialist in far-out
concoctions like this tart,
4 funky, barrel-aged
farmhouse ale.
2. HUDSON VALLEY
WORKING FOR THE
WEEKEND
($11/FOUR 16-OZ. CANS)
The first hire at this
Chicago brewery was an
artist on the packaging
team. Spiteful’s ongoing
dedication to hand-
drawn imagery is clear
on their signature double

BREWERY SKY THING
($18/FOUR 16-OZ. CANS)
The cascading waves of
flavor from this double
dry-hopped double IPA
mirror the intricate,
visually complex imagery
on the can for this hop-
focused beer from upstate
New York.
3. AGAINST THE GRAIN
BREWERY CITRA ASS
PROP STYLING: AUDREY DAVIS. CAN ART: 1. RIA NERI 2. ILLUSTRATION: EVAN M. COHEN; GRAPHIC DESIGN: NATALIE RENGANESCHI 3. ROBBY DAVIS
IPA, which tells a
graphic tale of every
beer lover’s plight.
6. STILLWATER
ARTISANAL YACHT
($9/FOUR 16-OZ. CANS)
The sleek lines and
minimalist approach of
this label perfectly reflect
“gypsy brewer” Stillwater
Artisanal’s crisp, easy-
drinking dry-hopped

5 6
DOWN
($14/FOUR 16-OZ. CANS)
Featuring a heavy dose of
7 Citra hops, this double IPA
pushes boundaries with its
irreverent name and
kooky, stylized image of a
tattooed fellow clutching a
mace behind an ostrich,
both pierced with arrows.
4. HOPWORKS URBAN
BREWERY ORGANIC IPA
($11/SIX 12-OZ. CANS)
More than one of Portland,
Oregon’s Hopworks’ cans
feature open-mouthed
heads that practically
scream, “Grab me from
the shelf!” Because in the
end, labels need to inspire
customers to buy the beer.
4. MARTIN ONTIVEROS 5. LUCAS SNOBECK 6. MIKE VAN HALL 7. MODERN TIMES ART DEPARTMENT
lager with a light citrus
edge worthy of a sunny
afternoon at sea.
7. MODERN TIMES
LIGHTNING
CALCULATOR
($21.50/FOUR 16-OZ. CANS)
San Diego’s Modern
Times’ distinctive
packaging seamlessly
juggles classic beer-label
aesthetics with techno-
modern design sensibili-
ties. This hazy, citrusy
double IPA was a special
release, but their rotating
lineup includes many
diverse beers.

46 JUNE 2018 by MIKE POMRANZ

©2018 J VINEYARDS & WINERY, HEALDSBURG, CA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
 NEXT STOP
WINE
FLIGHT

T R AV E L
JOURNAL

FIRST
BITE
PHOTOGRAPHY: SIMON BAJADA

WINE FLIGHT

Swiss Wine Sojourn Set course for Lavaux, on the

shores of Lake Geneva, for a taste of Switzerland’s
most storied—and stunningly beautiful—wine region.

by RAY ISLE JUNE 2018 49

 NEXT STOP
S THE SAYING HAS IT, there are three suns that shine on the
A Lavaux vineyard terraces in Switzerland. The first is the sun
on the vines, the second is the sun that reflects off the hand-
hewn stone terraces on which those vines grow, and the
last is the sun on Lake Geneva itself, warming its deep,
azure waters. The result of those suns is that Lavaux—and
really all of Switzerland’s Vaud canton—produces remarkable wines.
The hitch is that, outside of Swiss borders, almost nobody knows
about them.
So, go. Vaud, which embraces the north shore of Lake Geneva,
is truly one of the world’s most spectacular vineyard regions—a bold
statement, given the competition, but true,
particularly of the Lavaux subregion. Its in-
tricate terraced stone walls, originally built
in the 1200s by northern Italian stonema-
sons, helped make it a UNESCO World Heri-
99%
of the wines made
tage Site in 2007. These walls—more than 240 in Switzerland stay
miles of them, rising 20 feet or higher— in the country—not
least because the
meander above Lake Geneva’s shores, allow- Swiss know just how
ing vines to be grown on the steep slopes. good they are.
50 JUNE 2018
A tasting room en plein air amid
terraced vineyards in Switzerland’s
Lavaux region, above the shores
of Lake Geneva. he area’s grapes
grow within stone walls hand-
built in the 1200s.
(Vaud’s other subregions, such as Chablais and La
Côte, are no less beautiful.)
The principal grape here is the white Chasselas,
native to Switzerland. As Louis-Philippe Bovard of
Domaine Louis Bovard says, “It’s perfect in this
mosaic of soils we have. Chasselas from one cru to
the next can be as different as Chablis is from Mon-
trachet.” He’s right. The wines made from Chasselas
range from crisp, fresh, and light to rich and full-
bodied; they age beautifully, as well.
Fly in to Geneva, but make your home base for
visiting wineries the picturesque lakefront city of
Lausanne. Wineries here typically have shops or
tasting rooms with regular hours, but it’s best to
call in advance to make sure. And summer—when
the vines are burgeoning with fruit, the waters of
the lake are glittering in the sun, and temperatures
are in the balmy seventies—is the ideal time to go.
What are you waiting for? (Turn the page for our
guide to the region.)
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 NEXT STOP

WINE FLIGHT

Where to Wine and Dine

in Lavaux
5 TO TRY TRAVEL TIPS
DOMAINE LOUIS BOVARD
Bovard’s quaint tasting room
in the heart of the Lavaux wine
region is home to some of
Switzerland’s greatest whites,
among them the crystalline
2016 Grand Cru Dézaley
Médinette. domainebovard.com Where to Stay
When visiting Vaud,
DOMAINE DU DALEY check into the
Along with impressive wines, Beau-Rivage Palace
this ancient property (founded (brp.ch; rooms from
in 1392) offers one of the great- $427) in Lausanne.
est views of Lavaux’s steep This 1860s-era hotel
vineyards and Lake Geneva from offers grandeur
its open-air terrace. daley.ch with its elegant
salons, mirrored
DOMAINE LA COLOMBE hallways, and
Located in the La Côte subregion, spacious rooms.
this was one of the first wineries Have dinner at
in Switzerland to adopt biody- star French chef
namic viticulture. Try a Anne-Sophie Pic’s
Chasselas; they are all intense, eponymous
minerally, and site-specific. restaurant and
lacolombe.ch order a great Swiss
wine from the
HENRI BADOUX hotel’s 75,000-
bottle cellar.
Head east from La Colombe
past Montreux to the Chablais
subregion, and stop at Badoux’s
tasting room to try the ultra-
crisp 2013 Aigle les Murailles
Chasselas. badoux-vins.ch

LES FRÈRES DUBOIS

This historic producer, located
amongst the Lavaux vineyard
How to Tour
terraces in the tiny town of Cully,
Tasting rooms in
has an extensive range of older
Drop by Bovard’s tasting room to sample Switzerland are
vintages available from its
Switzerland’s greatest whites. welcoming, but
tasting room. lfd.ch
roads can be steep
and daunting after
a glass or two
of wine. Consider
working with
a bespoke tour
THE CHASSELAS WHISPERER company like
CountryBred
When in Vaud, have dinner at the quaint Auberge de (countrybred.com),
l’Onde (aubergedelonde.ch), located in the tiny village of which organizes
Saint-Saphorin. Wine director and general manager top-notch
ILLUSTRATIONS: WINSLOW TAFT

personalized wine
Jérôme Aké Béda (left) emigrated from the Ivory Coast to tours (with private
Switzerland in 1989, fell in love with wine, and in 2015 was drivers) in every
named the best sommelier in Switzerland. His knowledge Swiss wine region.
is vast, and his gift for pairing local wines with dishes,
such as chef Christophe Mazzieri’s grilled foie gras with
passion fruit–green cardamom emulsion, is unbeatable.

52 JUNE 2018
 NEXT STOP Sussman’s road crew pulls over
for a pause by the beach—part of the allure
of a Michigan road trip. BELOW: To kick off
their Michigan road trip, Eli Sussman and
his 32 friends tuck into the superlatively
good pies at Supino Pizzeria in Detroit.

T R AV E L J O U R N A L

My Michigan
Chef Eli
Sussman’s
favorite place to
explore summer?
The coast of his
home state—a
nosher’s paradise.
MICHIGAN IS THE PERFECT STATE for a road trip. It has beautiful
sand dunes, tree tunnels, freshwater lakes, and lookout points at
every turn of the wheel—not to mention a multitude of scenic roads
hugging the 3,224-mile shoreline. Given the state’s storied
automotive history, I think there’s no better way to see it than by car.
So when my friends asked me to join them on the annual 1,000-
mile road rally they’ve dubbed “The Mille Mitten” (a tour that
snakes along the top of Michigan’s outline with over 30 people in 15
cars), I couldn’t resist. On the road, we found fish shacks, vibrant
farmers markets, and, if you ask me, the best sandwiches in America.
Here are my favorite stops along the way, all of them reminders of
why my home state is the most magical place to be in the summer.

PHOTOGRAPHY (TOP TO BOTTOM): MATTHEW TUKEL, ESME MCCLEAR

1. SUPINO PIZZERIA 2. GUSTAFSON’S SMOKED FISH INC. 3. LEHTO’S PASTIES

Our road crew fueled up with takeout
from this farmers market–driven
pizzeria in Detroit’s historic food hall,
Eastern Market. Chef Dave Mancini
makes some of the best pies in the
state. One of my favorites is the
Supino, covered in roasted garlic,
black olives, chile oil, ricotta, and
mozzarella. He also does a great vegan
farinata, which is a chickpea crêpe
served with capers and eggplant.
supinopizzeria.com
There is perhaps no worse food for a
road trip than a trunk full of pungent
smoked fish. But if you’re in the Upper
Peninsula (aka the UP), you really need
to stop at this 40-year-old shop in a red
farmhouse in Brevort and pick some
up. I stuffed my cooler with smoked
trout (a savory addition to a lunchtime
panzanella) and whitefish (which I
whipped with chopped McClure’s
pickles and spread on sourdough toast
for dinner) and hit the road with no
regrets. gustafsonssmokedfishinc.com
This UP institution in St. Ignace has
been cranking out fresh pasties since
1947. Pronounced “pas-tee” (not
“pay-stee”), these are essentially the
forerunners of the modern Hot Pockets.
They’re filled with beef, chicken, and
vegetables—a snack-size potpie.
Once popular as a portable meal
for British tin miners in the 1800s,
they’ve become a must-have roadside
treat in the UP. lehtospasties.com

54 JUNE 2018 by ELI SUSSMAN

SHINE
BRIGHTER
Blue Moon is a wheat beer brewed
with Valencia orange peel for a
taste that rises above the ordinary.
 ADVERTISEMENT
NEXT STOP
PRESENTS THE
MAP YOUR
MOMENT
S W E E PS TA K E S
4. GURNEY’S HARBOR BOTTLE SHOP
There are only three sandwiches on the
menu at this little liquor store in Harbor
Springs. And while you could build your
own, I recommend you put yourself in the
hands of the pros. The Therman, chicken
salad with salami, is my personal favorite,
but many opt for the Train Wreck, piled
with ham, turkey, salami, roast beef, and
Travel + Leisure cheese. The third sandwich option is all
vegetables. (Note: Gurney’s has a strict
will send one winner no-tomatoes policy—they make the bread
and a guest to a soggy.) Go wild with the condiments:
top destination from Locals love Gurney’s Deli Sauce, a mélange
of horseradish, mayonnaise, garlic, and
our reader-selected spices. gurneysbottleshop.com
World’s Best Awards.
5. SARA HARDY FARMERS MARKET
After I was tasked with cooking dinner for
32 road ralliers, I sped ahead of the pack
Enter now for a chance
with my buddy PB and ransacked the
to win a three-night stay
at a World’s Best hotel Traverse City farmers market just as it was
in the U.S., plus dinner closing during a torrential downpour. The
at a top-ranked restaurant farmers were very happy to unload all of
selected by Food & Wine. their produce, and I walked away with a few
pounds of heirloom zucchini, squash, and
the best tomatoes I’ve ever tasted, with
the perfect balance of sweetness and acid.
travelandleisure.com/mapyourmoment
The tomatoes were from nearby Birch
Point Farm, which is owned by Michelle
Ferrarese, a local horticultural instructor.
They didn’t need anything else—not even
salt or olive oil. We just bit straight into
them, letting the juices drip down our
chins. Who says chips and trail mix are
the only car snacks? csafarms.org/
birchpointfarm.asp
6. 9 BEAN ROWS
Head to Suttons Bay, just north of Traverse
City, and you’ll find this cafe, bakery, and
farm all rolled into one, which offers the
best bang-for-your-buck breakfast: a
*Airfare, accommodations and dinner included. buttery croissant sandwich stuffed with
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Purchasing does not improve local, free-range eggs and raclette made in
your chances of winning. Travel + Leisure “Map Your Moment”
Sweepstakes is open to residents of the 50 United States Leelanau County, Michigan. (And it’s only
and D.C., age 18 or older. Void outside the United States, in
Puerto Rico, and wherever else prohibited by law. Sweepstakes $5.) If you want to eat your breakfast on the
begins at 12:00:01 AM ET on 05/01/18 and ends at 11:59:59 PM
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see www.travelandleisure.com/mapyourmoment. Sponsor:
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A pit stop along the Lake
Michigan shoreline.
with cold ham and butter. In my opinion,
this take on a jambon-beurre is the world’s
greatest breakfast sandwich—and it
reaffirms my belief that simplicity (and
fantastic bread) is the key to sandwich
transcendence. Grab some sweet, tangy
tomatoes; crisp, bitterly delicious mizuna;
and earthy pea shoots from the farm stand
to throw together an easy Michigan
summer salad once you reach your lake
house destination. 9beanrows.com
7. CARLSON’S FISHERY
This indomitable fish shack in Leland
(aka Fishtown) perfectly encapsulates
summer in Michigan. It’s been open for
more than a century, and when I was there,
I desperately wanted to buy all of the
incredible smoked fish, but I didn’t have
a cooler that day and was headed right to
the beach. So I picked up some small bags
of housemade beef and turkey jerky and
gobbled them up in the car during the next
leg of the drive. Both jerkies were some
of the finest I’ve ever had. (But next time
I won’t forget the cooler.) carlsonsfish.com
8. VILLAGE CHEESE SHANTY
Open for over 25 years, this tiny takeout-
only sandwich shop is the perfect place to
stop and load up on sandwiches before a
big hike or fishing charter out on Lake
Michigan. It’s just steps away from
Carlson’s. The Lake Street (chicken
breast, Swiss, lettuce, tomato, herby mayo,
and guacamole on pretzel bread) was a
great sandwich to eat on the beach after
I swam in the crystal-clear calm of the lake.
Later, as I drove southeast back to Detroit,
completing the final leg of the 1,000-mile
PHOTOGRAPHY: HELENA PRICE
trip, I regretted not snagging a Log Jam
(roast beef, feta, red onion, lettuce, tomato,
three-pepper relish, and guacamole) for
the road. But I didn’t mind too much. I’ll
make it a point to return—just another
sandwich, another great stop, another
local icon to look forward to next summer
in Michigan. villagecheeseshanty.com
 ĒĠĝěęĪĜĬĠęĬ
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 NEXT STOP

Bagnet Vert
MAKES: ABOUT 2 CUPS
In a sauté pan, heat 2 Tbsp.
extra-virgin olive oil over
medium-high. Add 1 slice of
crustless day-old sourdough
bread and toast until golden
brown on both sides; let cool.
Process bread, 1 trimmed green
garlic head, 1 cup fresh flat-leaf
parsley leaves, 1/2 cup water-
cress, 1/2 cup nasturtium
leaves, 1/2 cup blanched English
peas, 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar,
and 2 Tbsp. water in a food
processor until it forms a bright
green paste. With processor
running, pour 1/2 cup extra-virgin
olive oil in a slow, thin stream
through chute until completely
incorporated. Add 1/8 tsp. fish
sauce and salt and pepper to
taste. Serve immediately.

FIRST BITE

Folk (Nashville)
WHEN PHILIP KRAJECK describes the menu at his restaurant Folk, newly
opened in Nashville, he categorizes it as “food I’d want to eat myself.”
Of course, it’s more than that. Music City diners are smitten with
Krajeck’s deceptively simple, hyper-thoughtful, seasonally attuned food
philosophy—his Germantown restaurant, Rolf and Daughters, known
for bringing global techniques to Southern ingredients, opened in 2012
and is still full every night. At Folk, “neo-Neopolitan” oven-fired pizzas
made with fresh, stone-milled whole-wheat flour (another of Krajeck’s
passions) may take center stage, but don’t call it a pizzeria. “It’s not just
a pizza restaurant,” he says. “We’re going to have a really strong
vegetable section. We’re doing cured meats. We’re doing seafood.” The
3
food might seem simple, Krajeck says, with each dish featuring just a
few components—but the flavor will be massive: “It’s going to be
classic.” 823 Meridian St; goodasfolk.com

1. MORE THAN “MEATS” THE EYE
Every part of the lamb goes into these
spring onion–flecked meatballs, which
sit in a sauce made from roasted lamb
bone stock. They’re topped with an
earthy bagnet vert (recipe at top right)
and served with English peas. Dandelion
greens offer a balancing bitterness.
2. WHAT THEY’RE POURING
Nicolas Carmarans Maximus Aveyron
Fer Servadou is a vibrant natural wine
made of Fer Servadou grapes unique
to southwest France. The carbonic
macerated red offers smoke and
cranberry on the nose with a fresh,
red-berry palate and a hint of spice.
3. A ROOT-TO-FROND SALAD
For this crunchy whole-fennel salad,
shaved fennel bulb dressed in lemon
and olive oil sits atop marinated
Castelvetrano olives and fennel
conserva and is scattered with delicate
fennel fronds. Long ribbons of ricotta
salata cover the entire plate.

58 JUNE 2018 by MARIA YAGODA illustrations by WILLIAM BROWN

 THE SPONTANEIT Y YOU CR AVE.

YOU FEEL LIKE A KID AGAIN.

I’M THE SUDDEN DESIRE TO LE AVE LOGIC IN THE WIND.
BECAUSE WHO NEEDS LOGIC, ANY WAY?
I’M COLOR ADO. AND I’LL SHOW YOU WHAT IT’S LIKE TO BE TRULY ALIVE.

Get the guide at COLORADO.COM

 part process part possibility

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we strive for an original expression that reflects
a deep sense of place, process and possibility. From
Sonoma soil to French oak barrels to a table you
set for those that matter most.

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Please enjoy our wines responsibly.

©2018 Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards, Windsor, Sonoma County, ca
 AT HOME
THE
FIND

ISLAND
LIFE

A COOK
AND A
BOOK
PROP STYLING: MISSIE NEVILLE CRAWFORD

THE FIND

for a lighter hand in the kitchen, which is why we love

Lighten Up Welcome a SUMMER CALLS
enamelware. Made from thin aluminum, steel, or cast iron and coated
new generation of with the same hard porcelain as weighty Dutch ovens, enamelware is
easier on the wrists when going from stove to patio and quicker to react
colorful enamelware. on the cooktop. Plus, it’s perfect for batch cocktails: A handsome metal
pitcher like this one from the recently revived British company Falcon
($47; us.falconenamelware.com) will keep your sangria cooler for longer
than glass or ceramic—and it looks great while doing it.

by DANA BOWEN photography by JENNIFER CAUSEY JUNE 2018 61

 AT H O M E

ISLAND LIFE

Power Station A cypress-

topped island is at the heart
of this kitchen renovation.
1. A POP
OF COLOR
You won’t see much
stainless steel in
Brioza and Krasinski’s
kitchen because the
couple didn’t want
their home to resem-
ble their restaurant
workplace. The fridge
is a BlueStar refrigera-
1 tor in teal—a color that
Brioza had his eye on
for the past decade.
When the couple
worked at Rubicon in
San Francisco, they
were invited to tour
renowned glass artist
Dale Chihuly’s Seattle
studio, which had a
ton of blue retro appli-
ances, including a
2 refrigerator. “It’s
always been lodged in
my mind,” Brioza says.
2. THE PREP ZONE
When they host pasta-
Inspired by Dale Chihuly, vintage aesthetics, making or cookie-
and earthy colors, Stuart Brioza and Nicole baking parties, they
roll out noodles and
Krasinski—the husband-wife team behind press cookie cutters
San Francisco’s State Bird Provisions and directly onto the
The Progress—transformed the kitchen in cypress slab that tops
the island. But when
their Victorian-style home (which hadn’t the knives come out, a
been remodeled since the ’70s) into a modern- favorite cutting
board—an 18-inch
day workshop. Brioza became obsessed round model from
with the idea of a kitchen island with the John Boos & Co. made
of maple—protects
functionality of a worktable, “something the softer cypress
you’d find in a garage, even,” and that’s now surface from damage.
at the heart of the space.
4
3
3. THE KITCHEN
ISLAND
The desire for an
island that was highly
functional but still airy
and light drove the
design of this custom-
made worktable,
which is topped with a
10-foot slab of cypress
with a live edge. The
prep sink on one end
is bronze rather than
stainless steel; open-
air shelves allow for
book and equipment
storage underneath.
4. FORM AND
FUNCTION
The stove is directly
behind the island, and
the fridge is to the
right of the stove. “Like
in a professional
kitchen, you’re sort of
bouncing back and
forth,” Brioza says.
“You can pivot.” But
they also included
elements solely for
design’s sake, like the
black-and-white floor
mosaic inspired by
classic American
home kitchens.

Chefs’ Essentials
PHOTOGRAPHY: KEVIN MEYNELL

Preferred Pans In Brioza’s opinion,
“there’s no replacement for good fire
and a good pan.” That means a good
hood ventilation system, a stove with
plenty of BTUs, and a couple of go-to
pans. In their home kitchen, they like to
cook in cast-iron pots and pans from
Crane Cookware and Staub.
Must-Have Ingredients At home, their
current obsessions include Scribe
Winery’s verjus (the very tart juice of
unfermented unripe wine grapes), black
sesame paste from The Japanese Pantry,
and yuzu kosho, a fermented paste that
Brioza and Krasinski make from scratch
with chiles, yuzu peel, and salt.
Current Food Obsession “It’s gratifying
to eat quick things on the island because
you’ve got the stove right there,” says
Krasinski. Their indulgence of the
moment: tortillas from San Francisco’s
La Palma Mexicatessen—fire-toasted,
rubbed with butter, and wrapped
around sauerkraut.

62 JUNE 2018 by NINA FRIEND

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 AT H O M E
A COOK AND A BOOK
Step to It Alvin Ailey artistic director
Robert Battle takes Coconuts &
Collards by Von Diaz for a whirl.
“I
PRIDE MYSELF ON HAVING all the gadgets,” says Robert Battle,
artistic director of Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater. At his
house in Connecticut, they sit like sentinels against the back-
splash on the large open kitchen’s counters. Outside on his
deck, a state-of-the-art grill stands beside a spiffy electric pellet
smoker. He’s got two deep fryers and the ever-popular Instant
Pot; his cooking timer is Alexa, the Amazon smart-home device.
But today, the only appliance the dancer and choreographer
really needs is a food processor to blend a batch of adobo sauce.
Adobo features heavily in writer and radio producer Von
Diaz’s new cookbook, Coconuts & Collards,
which chronicles her early childhood in Río
Piedras, Puerto Rico; her coming of age in
Atlanta; and her recent reconnection to the
island of her birth. The opening recipe is for
sofrito, “the number one backbone of Puerto
Rican cooking.” The next is for adobo, the
marinade that “gives much Puerto Rican food
COCONUTS
its signature flavor,” with three variations: one
& COLLARDS
for chicken and seafood, one for pork, and
by Von Diaz,
another for beef. $28, University
Battle is preparing the first of those adobos Press of Florida
64 JUNE 2018 by CHARLOTTE DRUCKMAN
for Diaz’s Sweet-and-Sour Chicken Adobo (p.
66), which gets its flavor, initially, from mari-
nating in a mix of garlic, dried oregano, lemon
juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper, then from
roasting in a combination of brown sugar,
vinegar, and chorizo. He’s incredulous that
the entire cooking process takes place on the
stove, that the bird is left whole, and that no
more liquid goes into the pot. He is equally
curious about the Coconut-Braised Collards
recipe (p. 66), which begins with a sauté of
scallions in a blend of butter and coconut oil.
The greens join the allium for a few minutes
before coconut milk and soy sauce are added.
It’s the presence of coconut and lack of pork
that are throwing Battle: “I’m from the tradi-
tional Southern collard greens, ham hock,
apple cider vinegar—that flavor.” Still, he takes
Diaz’s versions for a whirl.
Battle grew up in Florida. His earliest
cooking memory is of watching chef Justin
Wilson’s PBS television show about Cajun
cuisine with his great-uncle in the 1970s. But
it’s Emeril Lagasse, he says, “who really got me
into cooking.” He found the Louisiana chef’s
debut television series on the Food Network
in the 1990s and nostalgically connected it to
Wilson “in those overalls, [saying] all those
crazy things.” He purchased Lagasse’s Every
Day’s a Party and cooked through it until he
felt like he could follow his own instincts.
Battle loves to read about different ways to
make a dish when he’s on tour. “It’s a great
way of letting go of everything: deciding
what you’re going to make, which usually is
happening on the plane,” he says. But at the
stove, he prefers to improvise. “I’m just gonna
make it up,” he confesses. Today is no excep-
tion. After he blends the marinade together, he
PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY UNIVERSITY PRESS OF FLORIDA
decides it could use more olive oil and pours
that in until the marinade reaches a consis-
tency he likes. Once the chicken’s browned
and left to continue cooking, he gathers
and preps the necessary ingredients for the
collards. In the ensuing downtime, he tells
Alexa to “play upbeat jazz” for a dance break.
“I tap-dance in the kitchen,” he says, his shoes
clicking to the music.
The collards cook relatively quickly and
with little effort; Battle sticks his fork in for
a taste and his face lights up. “It’s just great!”
he says, going in for another bite and giving
illustration by GUSTAF VON ARBIN
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 AT H O M E

Sweet-and-Sour Chicken Adobo

ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 35 MIN; SERVES 4
the pot a get-outta-here wave of the hand. A few minutes later,
the chicken is done; he places it on a serving platter and carries Diaz’s surprising method of
it to his dining room table, which is fashioned from a salvaged searing then steaming a
bowling-alley lane. whole chicken in a sweet
The meal—and cookbook—has exceeded his expectations. vinegar mixture on the stove
He relates to Diaz’s economy of ingredients. “That’s so much yields tender meat and a
of what we try to do in composing a dance,” he says. “Find luscious pan sauce.
ingredients that really matter, and then figure out a way to
3 Tbsp. minced garlic
present them.” He also admires her creativity, what he refers (about 12 garlic cloves)
to as “cultural collision.” Most of all, Diaz’s point of view
2 Tbsp. dried oregano
resonates. “There was a certain warmth in there that was
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
embracing the tradition,” he notes, but it also was about her 1 Tbsp. black pepper
own spin on that heritage. “It was about a culinary journey
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive
that was also a personal one.” oil
As dinner winds down, Battle decides to invite Diaz to one
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
of the performances in Alvin Ailey’s 60th anniversary program, (from 2 lemons)
which kicks off this fall at Lincoln Center. Then he starts to
1 (3- to 4-lb.) whole
chicken
think about what he’ll cook tomorrow: perhaps pork ribs in
a guava-rich sauce, or Costillas de Cerde con Salsa BBQ de 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
Guayaba, as you’ll find it in Coconuts & Collards. 6 oz. Spanish chorizo
1/3 cup packed light brown
browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip
chicken, and sear until
browned, 3 to 5 minutes.
4. Using tongs, transfer
chicken to a plate. Reduce
heat to medium, and add
chorizo, brown sugar, and
vinegar to pan. Cook, stirring
often, until brown sugar is
melted, 3 to 5 minutes.
5. Arrange chorizo mixture
around edges of pan, and
return chicken to pan, breast
side down. Cover, reduce heat
to low, and cook until evenly
browned, about 30 minutes.
Flip chicken, cover, and cook
until a meat thermometer
registers 185°F when inserted
in thickest portion of thigh
and 165°F in thickest portion

Coconut-Braised Collards
TOTAL 15 MIN; SERVES 4
Coconut milk sweetens and
enriches collard greens in this
quick-cooking dish from Von
Diaz’s Coconuts & Collards.
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 Tbsp. coconut oil
1 bunch scallions (about
5 oz.), thinly sliced
1 large bunch collards
(about 2 lb.), leaves and
tender stems chopped
1 1/2 cups canned coconut
milk, well shaken
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
2 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. black pepper
1. Melt butter and coconut oil
in a large wok or skillet over
medium-high. Add scallions,
and cook, stirring often, 1
minute. Add collards in 2
batches, stirring first batch
until wilted, about 1 minute,
before adding second batch.
2. Add coconut milk and soy
sauce to wok; bring to a
simmer. Reduce heat to
medium-low, and simmer,
uncovered, stirring often,
until collards are just tender,
7 to 10 minutes. Stir in salt
and pepper.
PHOTOGRAPHY (FROM LEFT): COURTESY OXMOOR HOUSE, COURTESY ARTISAN BOOKS, COURTESY HOUGHTON MIFFLIN HARCOURT/RUX MARTIN BOOKS
sugar
of breast, about 30 minutes.
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
6. Transfer chicken to a cut-
ting board; let rest 5 minutes.
1. Pulse garlic, oregano, salt,
Pour any accumulated juices
and pepper in a mini food pro-
from cutting board into
cessor until finely chopped.
remaining chorizo mixture in
Add oil and lemon juice; pro-
pan. Remove chorizo, and
cess until smooth.
thinly slice. Pour sauce mix-
2. Place chicken and garlic ture through a fine wire-mesh
mixture in a large ziplock plas- strainer into a serving bowl;
tic bag. Seal bag, and let stand discard solids. Carve chicken,
30 minutes at room tempera- and serve with sauce and
ture or up to 8 hours in refrig-
sliced chorizo.
erator. Remove chicken from
marinade, letting excess drip
WINE PAIRING
off. Discard marinade.
Rich German Pinot Blanc:
3. Melt butter in a large,
2016 Koehler-Ruprecht
heavy-bottomed saucepan or
Weissburgunder Kabinett
Dutch oven over medium-
Trocken
high. Add chicken, breast side
down, and sear until just

F&W Recommends This summer, cook through

three more staff-favorite Southern books.

Soul, Todd Richards’ first Edward Lee spent two years Shrimp and grits in a jala-
cookbook, is an homage traveling the U.S. research- peño-tomato puree, fried
to and reinterpretation of ing Buttermilk Graffiti, a green tomatillos, tequila
Southern cuisine, featur- chef’s travel journal with sweet tea: Chef Eddie Her-
ing collards in ham-hock recipes like Cambodian nandez’s first book, Turnip
ramen, turkey legs in curried fish and Peruvian Greens & Tortillas, is a
strawberry barbecue grilled chicken that capture delicious mash-up of Mexi-
sauce, and Meyer lemon– what the nation’s melting- can, Cajun, and Southern
glazed fried blueberry pies. pot cuisine is today. fare. KAREN SHIMIZU

66 JUNE 2018
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 Restaurants, the Hard Way
Nothing’s easy when you’re
restaurateur Stephen Starr—but
that’s exactly how he likes it.
PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY RICK WENNER/REDUX

Starr at Upland, the restaurant in Manhattan

he opened with chef Justin Smillie.

by CHARLOTTE DRUCKMAN JUNE 2018 69

 TA S T E M A K E R S
“I’ve done
a couple of
restaurants STEPHEN STARR SAYS, seated at a table at his
that were restaurant Buddakan in Manhattan. Starr is
in the business of making blockbuster restau-
easy, and it rants. His portfolio includes the acclaimed Le
Coucou and The Clocktower in New York City
bothered and Serpico and Talula’s Garden in Philadel-
phia, each possessed of a singular, striking
me they environment and intended to be “its own work
were easy,” of art or theater.” (For the record, Buddakan,
a 15,000-square-foot spectacle with a dizzying
stairwell descending into a glittering dining
room, was not one of the “easy” ones.)
When it opened its doors in 2006, Buddakan blew everyone away with its
grandeur, its ambience—“and the food being way better than anyone thought it
was going to be,” Starr adds. It certainly exceeded the expectations of New York
Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni. “A restaurant this sexy doesn’t need to be
smart,” he wrote. “But its chef, Michael Schulson, breathes intelligence and cre-
ativity into it.” That intelligence and creativity start with Starr, who is known
for sweating the small stuff, down to the precise level of crispiness on the edge
of a buckwheat galette or the specific degree, in Fahrenheit, to which the dining
room thermostat is set. (On this particular Monday afternoon, the restaurant
magnate is interviewing applicants for front-of-house positions at La Mercerie,
the café at the luxury home furnishings boutique Roman and Williams Guild).
In a tailored suit and black crew neck shirt, Starr commands a lot of space
and, at the same time, disappears into it. This is as true of his physical presence
as it is of his role as a restaurateur. How else would you
explain why it took more than two decades and upward
of 30 well-received, nationally acclaimed establishments
in six cities before he received the James Beard Award for
Outstanding Restaurateur last year?
Perhaps if he’d taken the approach of someone like
Danny Meyer and made himself the headliner for each
of his restaurants, Starr would have received that recog-
nition from his peers sooner. After all, Meyer’s Union
Square Hospitality Group had only four restaurants, two
cafés, and a single Shake Shack location in its portfolio
when he won that award in 2005. But Starr has never
sought the spotlight. He’d rather be the man behind the
curtain, creating spaces that make you feel like a rock
Starr opened he Continental
in Philadelphia in 1995. It was his
first successful restaurant.
(His first-ever food venture, a
retro burger joint, bombed.)
70 JUNE 2018
star—or like you might be dining among them.
Starr’s interest in showmanship dates back
to his childhood in New Jersey. “Everything
about human nature, I think I learned from
being on the boardwalk in Atlantic City,” he
says. “I learned to sell. I learned how to mar-
ket, and I learned what makes people tick.” As
a teenager, he wanted to be an announcer on
Top 40 radio. He got his First Class Radiotele-
phone Operator License at 15; to record DJ au-
dition tapes, he snuck into the local college
radio station. At 16, he was hosting his own
rock show for an hour a week. As an under-
grad at Temple University in Philadelphia, he
moved on to television, forming a production
company with his film professor. They were
pitching ideas to networks when Starr’s moth-
er died. He was 19 and devastated. Then his
girlfriend broke up with him. The only way to
win her back, he decided, was “to make mon-
ey and get famous.”
The win-her-back part of the plan didn’t
pan out, but the rest did. At 21, Starr opened
Grandmom Minnie’s, a stand-up comedy ven-
ue that served food during the day. A few years
later, when he stumbled upon an empty build-
ing, he secured a $40,000 loan from a bank,
borrowed money from friends, and, in 1977,
launched Stars, a comedy club and cabaret. “I
booked Richard Belzer and Jerry Seinfeld,
[who] was an up-and-coming comedian,” Starr
says. “I booked Pat Benatar before she was Pat
Benatar.” His next venture was Ripley’s Music
Hall, where he booked the Pat Benatars of the
world when they were Pat Benatars. Eventu-
ally, he founded The Concert Company to stage
shows for performers like Madonna in Phila-
delphia. (He sold the company in 1990.)
He made his first foray into restaurants
when a friend suggested they open a 1950s-
PHOTOGRAPHY: MAX GRUDZINSKI
TA S T E M A K E R S
type burger joint together. Starr came up with the name: Shake, Burg-
er and Roll. They set up shop in an old Roy Rogers in suburban Main
Line. “I had no idea what I was doing,” Starr says. “We did hundreds
of covers, and we couldn’t get the food out, and it was a disaster. It
went out of business in nine months.” If it had worked, Starr says,
he’d still be doing Shake, Burger and Rolls all over the place (maybe
giving Meyer’s Shake Shack a run for its money.) Instead, he did The
Continental, which changed everything for him—and for Philadelphia.
In 1995, Starr had taken over a little diner on Market Street and
didn’t know what to do with it. After a trip to Los Angeles, where a
martini craze had taken hold, he turned it into The Continental, a
martini bar and restaurant. “I was fascinated by the trend because it
was like beautiful girls and handsome guys drinking martinis,” Starr
says. “It wasn’t that college drink-beer-and-pass-out thing.” The food
was at first an afterthought. But the chef on board encouraged Starr
to pay more attention to the menu, warning that when the trend had
run its course, people would continue to come back to eat if the food
was good. “I listened to him,” Starr says. “His name was Bradlee
Bartram, who now runs my company.” (Bartram’s official title is ex-
ecutive vice president.) The following year the movie Swingers came
out, and suddenly everyone, everywhere wanted a taste of its retro,
martini-sipping lifestyle. The Continental had arrived at exactly the
right time. Night after night, it swarmed with twentysomethings. A
restaurateur—and Starr Restaurants—was born.
“My whole goal was to make Philadelphia sexy,” Starr says, laugh-
ing. “Like instead of a place where your parents would take you, which
is exactly what all the restaurants were, I wanted to sort of sex it up
a little bit and make people feel good.” For the next decade, he con-
tinued to build properties and develop an audience of restaurant-
goers in Philadelphia—an investment in the city’s dining culture that
paved the way for a future generation of chefs and restaurateurs.
Starr still resides and continues to sign leases (20 and counting)
in Philadelphia. Starting in 2006, he opened spots in other cities:
Atlantic City and New York City, then Miami; Washington, D.C.; Ft.
Lauderdale; and Paris. What compels Starr to continue, to open each
new restaurant? “A cinematic space,” he says. “It has an impact on
me, making me want to do something there.”
“He thinks bigger picture,” says Aimee Olexy, owner of The Love,
Southeastern Belize | travelbelize.org
A CURIOUS PLACE
which she launched with Starr near Philadelphia’s Rit-
tenhouse Square in November. She’s known him since
1999, when he hired her as general manager at Blue
Angel, his third restaurant (it closed in 2003). “He has so
many gigantic, full, complete visions.”
Le Coucou is perhaps Starr’s most visionary restaurant
yet. He opened it in 2016 with the intention that it would
garner critical acclaim, which it did: Pete Wells gave it a
three-star rave in he New York Times, the James Beard
Foundation voted it Best New Restaurant, and F&W named
it a Restaurant of the Year. It also, to Starr’s surprise, has
been a financial success. Diners who sit in its luxuriously
yawning brick-walled dining room feel enveloped in an
effortless kind of romance; their faces are bright with
candlelight as they behold the gleaming open kitchen that
looks like something out of a film set and as they taste
Daniel Rose’s refined iterations of French bistro cuisine.
Effortless, it was not. “We worked so hard on that and
stressed on every single detail and the food. Daniel [Rose]
and I took hours of disagreeing with each other about
things to the point where it was exhausting for both of
us, but it came out the right way,” Starr says. “I’m relent-
less. I wouldn’t let up.”
“Being Stephen Starr can’t possibly be easy,” Rose says,
“but he has turned it into a vehicle for success.”
Unlike some in the business, Starr doesn’t lean on past
hits: “With each restaurant I have to outdo what I did last
time—there’s got to be something better about the new one
than there was about the old one.” Even when creating a
second location of a restaurant, as he did with Buddakan,
he makes them distinct. “I always feel the necessity for
everything to be different,” he says. “That is not a smart
business move because when there is an exit, when peo-
ple want to buy your company, they usually want one or
two concepts that they can replicate across the world.”
Twenty-three years in, with 5,000 employees on the
payroll, there’s an infrastructure in place to keep Starr
Restaurants running smoothly and allow its head honcho
to step away from the day-to-day mechanics. But he
doesn’t seem wired for pulling back. Here he is, still in-
terviewing potential servers for a property.
His vision, married to an unremitting attention to mi-
nutiae, has gotten him this far, but it requires a level of
focus on detail bordering on monomania, not to mention
a lot of micromanaging. It’s not a scalable means of ex-
ecution. Starr thinks about it, sometimes—about why he
can’t “just open something nice but plain and be left
alone.” But of course he can’t. That would be too easy.
What is the sound of southeastern Belize? It’s the paranda,
the punta, and a variety of other Afro-Caribbean rhythms
brought to our shores with the arrival of the Garifuna people
in 1797. Generations later, the music still wafts through the air,
calling locals and travelers alike to dance.
Learn more about this curious place at travelbelize.org
 WHEN IT COMES TO FROZEN DESSERTS,
JON SNYDER SHOWS WHY GELATO TAKES THE CAKE.
By Gabriella Gershenson Recipes by Jon Snyder
Photography by Victor Protasio

75
 ice cream is my madeleine. Or, to be
more precise, Carvel ice cream cake is.
One of the crowning moments of my
childhood was the time I had a Cookie
Puss ice cream cake at my sixth birthday
party. The cake, shaped like an inverted light
bulb, had chocolate chip cookies for eyes and
an ice cream cone nose. It was peculiar and
alluring, and it tasted great.
Although Cookie Puss didn’t define Snyder’s era
at Carvel, cakes were still essential to the business.
His mother, Phyllis, a registered nurse, worked at a
hospital from midnight until 8 a.m., then went
straight to the shop in the morning to make ice
cream cakes. “On the East Coast, everyone grew up
with those Carvel cakes,” says Snyder. “It’s so
HEN I WALK INTO
evocative of childhood. It’s one of the main reasons
Il Laboratorio del Gelato, the gelato emporium on New York City’s Lower
why I chose this profession. It’s terrific to go to work
East Side is churning. Literally. Machines are whirring, and the sunny smell
and bring a smile to people’s faces.”
of fresh citrus hangs in the air. Owner Jon Snyder, New York’s reigning
Though Snyder makes serious gelato, serving as
gelato king, greets me at the counter beside two rows of flavors that span
a wholesaler to hundreds of the city’s top restaurants
the width of the shop. The 54-year-old, wearing a pair of jeans and a white
and mixing up esoteric flavors like cucumber,
button-down shirt, has dark circles under his eyes. Snyder drove to Hunts
mastic, hawaij, and three kinds of peppercorn
Point Produce Market in the Bronx at 2 a.m. to buy 40 cases of blood
(black, white, and pink), he has also been making
oranges. He had just returned from a rare vacation, only to discover that
gelato-and-sorbet cakes since day one. At the
the blood orange sorbet made in his absence wasn’t ... bloody
store, he offers up to five layers of
enough. “It was an orange color, and it should be a bright
gelato and/or sorbet, which are
red,” says Snyder. There was too much added water. “We
frosted with more gelato. Then
melted it down and added much more fresh juice.”
there are the options for add-ins:
A woman in white feeds the new oranges into a juicer.
crushed nuts, chopped chocolate,
Snyder passes a cup under the spigot. I take a sip. The THE FLAVORS COME crumbled meringues, candied
flavors are immediate—big and bright. We walk over to
a gelato machine, which is processing that very juice THROUGH. THAT’S amarena cherries.
Snyder is big on seasonality,
into sorbet. Snyder skims off a spoonful and hands it to THE GENIUS OF and fruit sorbets, with their
me. It’s the same taste as the juice, but in a slushy, melt-
on-your-tongue consistency. The form may change, but
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN immediate flavor (“cream can
have a masking and diluting
the flavor stays the same. This is the beauty of Snyder’s ICE CREAM. effect”), are what he tends to
frozen desserts.
gravitate toward. In the summer,
“Gelato means less air, less cream, and more milk,”
Snyder might recommend a
FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY

says Snyder about the main distinction between gelato

study in a single fruit, such as
and ice cream (though, he points out, one is just the Italian
strawberry—combining sorbet and
word for the other). Cream, which contains more butterfat, takes in more
gelato of the same flavor for its purest expression
air during churning than milk does. And less air means a denser, creamier
and coating it in a white gelato, such as sour cream,
product. His gelato mixtures are eggless because he favors a neutral base.
for a big reveal. “When you have an elegant white
“If I’m making vanilla, it’s the vanilla you taste. If I’m making strawberry,
cake that could have anything inside, then you slice
it’s strawberry,” says Snyder. “The flavors come through when there’s less
into it and it has a burst of color, it’s a bit of a
butterfat. That’s the genius of traditional Italian ice cream.”
surprise,” he says. If Carvel is a childhood ideal of
Truth be told, when I first heard of Snyder years ago when he opened Il
a perfect cake, then Il Laboratorio’s is that dream,
Laboratorio, what captured my imagination wasn’t his culinary cred or his
all grown up.
impressive résumé (in 1983, he founded Ciao Bella Gelato at the age of 19).
It was the Carvel connection. I’d read that the fancy downtown gelato guy
grew up working in his grandmother’s Carvel in Westchester County. Carvel

76 JUNE 2018
Strawberry gelato (top)
and strawberry sorbet
(see p. 79 for recipes).

Strawberry Sorbet
ACTIVE 30 MIN
TOTAL 10 HR 30 MIN
MAKES 7 CUPS
With only two ingredients
(ripe berries and sugar), Jon
Snyder’s vivid sorbet explodes
with fresh fruit flavor.
4 lb. fresh strawberries
(about 16 cups), hulled
and quartered
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
1. Using a potato masher,
mash strawberries in a large
bowl until mostly pureed
(there will still be small
chunks of pulverized berries)
to yield about 6 cups
strawberry puree. Stir sugar
into berry puree. Cover and
refrigerate until well chilled,
at least 1 hour.
2. Pour half of the chilled
strawberry mixture into the
freezer bowl of a 1 1/2-quart
electric ice cream maker, and
proceed according to manu-
facturer’s instructions.
3. Transfer sorbet to a
freezer-safe container; press
a sheet of parchment paper
directly on surface, and seal
with an airtight lid. Place in
freezer. Repeat procedure
with remaining chilled straw-
berry mixture. Freeze sorbet
at least 8 hours or overnight.
Strawberry Gelato
ACTIVE 1 HR
TOTAL 12 HR 25 MIN
MAKES 7 CUPS
To guarantee homemade
gelato’s luscious consistency
and purity of flavor, Snyder
suggests thickening gelato
with cornstarch rather than
eggs. The result has less
palate-coating fat than ice
cream and lets the fruit shine.
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
3 cups half-and-half,
divided
1 1/3 cups granulated sugar
2 lb. fresh strawberries
(about 8 cups), hulled
and quartered
1. Whisk together cornstarch
and 1/4 cup half-and-half in a
small bowl to make a slurry.
2. Combine sugar and
remaining 2 3/4 cups half-and-
half in a medium saucepan;
bring to a simmer over
medium. Remove from heat;
gradually whisk in slurry.
Return pan to medium, and
cook, stirring, until mixture
comes to a boil and thickens
slightly, 8 to 10 minutes. Pour
mixture into a heatproof
bowl. Cool completely in an
ice bath, about 25 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, use a potato
masher to mash strawberries
in a large bowl until crushed
and juicy to yield about 3
cups strawberry puree. Stir
strawberry puree into cooled
half-and-half mixture. Cover
and refrigerate until well
chilled, at least 2 hours.
4. Pour half of chilled straw-
berry mixture into the freezer
bowl of a 1 1/2-quart electric
ice cream maker, and pro-
ceed according to manufac-
turer’s instructions.
5. Transfer gelato to a
freezer-safe container; press
a sheet of parchment paper
directly on surface, and seal
with an airtight lid. Place in
freezer. Repeat procedure
with remaining chilled
strawberry mixture.
Freeze gelato at least 8
hours or overnight.
Sour Cream Gelato
ACTIVE 1 HR
TOTAL 12 HR 10 MIN
> 5 RULES TO
MAKES 6 CUPS
Snyder swaps out some of the
half-and-half for sour cream
or crème fraîche in this tangy,
creamy gelato. Use this base
for infusions like vanilla or
cinnamon.
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
2 1/4 cups whole milk,
divided
1 1/3 cups granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups half-and-half
1 1/2 cups sour cream or
crème fraîche
1. Whisk together cornstarch
and 1/4 cup milk in a small bowl
to make a slurry.
2. Combine sugar, half-and-
half, and remaining 2 cups
milk in a medium saucepan;
bring to a simmer over
medium. Remove from heat;
gradually whisk in slurry.
Return pan to medium, and
cook, stirring, until mixture
comes to a boil and thickens
slightly, 8 to 10 minutes. Pour
mixture into a heatproof bowl.
Cool completely in an ice
bath, about 25 minutes.
3. Gently whisk sour cream
into cooled milk mixture.
Cover and refrigerate until
well chilled, at least 2 hours.
4. Pour half of chilled sour
cream mixture into the
freezer bowl of a 1 1/2-quart
electric ice cream maker, and
proceed according to manu-
facturer’s instructions.
5. Transfer gelato to a freezer-
safe container; press a sheet
of parchment paper directly
on surface, and seal with an
airtight lid. Place in freezer.
Repeat procedure with
remaining chilled sour cream
mixture. Freeze gelato at least
8 hours or overnight.
MAKE AHEAD Sorbet and
gelato may be made up to 1
week ahead. Keep frozen until
ready to use.
FREEZE BY
1. START WITH HIGH-
QUALITY FRUIT
“Great strawberries will make
a great ice cream,” says
Snyder. “Bad ones will not.” If
you can’t get your hands on
excellent fresh fruit, frozen
fruit works in a pinch. Thaw
and drain it first to remove
excess water.
2. ADJUST SUGAR
AS NEEDED
“If we get strawberries and
they’re not so sweet, we’ll
add more sugar to the recipe.
If they are sweeter, we’ll add
less,” says Snyder. He
encourages you to do the
same. His strawberry sorbet
is about 85 percent fruit by
weight, and the rest is sugar.
Adjust up or down by 5
percent depending on the
sweetness of your produce.
3. DON’T OVER-CHURN
When making gelato, says
Snyder, if your ice cream
maker is designed to hold 1
quart at a time, try cutting
the volume in half. This
allows for faster processing,
which means less churning
and, ultimately, less air in
your gelato. “Yes, air is free,”
says Snyder. “However, it has
no taste, and the less of it
that finds its way into the
churning process, the more
concentrated the flavor and
the better the texture.”
4. KNOW WHEN TO CHILL
When making gelato, the
gelato mixture and the
machine you’re making it in
should both be very cold.
The colder they are, the less
churning is required to
freeze the gelato (see rule
3.) When processing sorbet,
you still want a cold mixture
and a cold machine, but you
don’t need to worry about
aerating or over-churning
because water and fruit
don’t take in air the way
cream does.
5. MIX AND MATCH
The ratio of fruit to sugar in
Snyder’s strawberry sorbet
recipe works for most fruit,
so experiment! The
exceptions are citrus fruits,
which have their own unique
ratios, and drier fruits like
mango, papaya, banana, and
raspberry, which may
require a little water to
absorb the sugar.
JUNE 2018 79
 CO OK
TH E
COVE R

Strawberries-and-Cream
Gelato Cake
ACTIVE 45 MIN; TOTAL 17 HR; SERVES 14

1. Scoop 3 cups Strawberry Sorbet (see Strawberry

p. 79, or use store-bought) into a large Sorbet
bowl. Using head of ice cream scoop,
Strawberry
break up the sorbet. Once it begins to melt Gelato
around edges, fold sorbet with a flexible
spatula until smooth, spreadable, and still Sour Cream
holds its shape, like smooth peanut butter. Gelato

2. Using a large offset spatula, spread the

softened sorbet evenly in a round 9-inch
(12-cup) springform pan, spreading to
edges. Use flat side of a plastic bowl
scraper to smooth surface. Place a 9-inch
45 MIN
round sheet of parchment paper directly
on the surface; freeze 45 minutes. FREEZE

3. Repeat Step 1 with 3 cups Strawberry

Gelato (see p. 79, or use store-bought).
Peel parchment off sorbet layer; spread
Strawberry Gelato over sorbet, and 45 MIN
smooth with bowl scraper. Cover with
FREEZE
parchment; freeze 45 minutes.

4. Repeat softening and layering proce-

dures with 3 cups Strawberry Sorbet and
3 cups Strawberry Gelato, freezing
45 MIN
between layers. On final Strawberry Gelato
layer, fill pan to top, using an additional 1 FREEZE
cup Strawberry Gelato; smooth and level
with bowl scraper. Cover with a 9- x 13-inch
sheet of parchment. Freeze 8 hours.

5. To unmold, dampen a kitchen towel

8 HR
with hot water; wrap around pan to
release cake from sides of pan. Remove FREEZE
parchment and pan sides. Replace parch-
ment, and invert cake onto a cutting
board or cookie sheet. Freeze 1 hour.

6. Repeat Step 1 with 6 cups Sour Cream 1 HR

Gelato (see p. 79, or use store-bought).
Mound 4 cups softened Sour Cream Gelato FREEZE
on top of cake. Using a large offset spatula,
frost cake with gelato evenly over top and
just past edges of cake. Using parchment
to turn cake, frost cake sides with remain-
ing 2 cups Sour Cream Gelato. Use bowl
ILLUSTRATIONS: EMILY JOHNSON

scraper to smooth top and sides of cake.

Return to freezer; freeze at least 4 hours
4 HR
before serving.
FREEZE
7. Transfer cake to refrigerator for 10 min-
utes before cutting. Slide cake from
parchment onto a serving plate. Garnish
10 MIN
with 1 qt. fresh strawberries. Slice and
serve immediately. REFRIGERATE
MAKE AHEAD Cake may be assembled up
to 3 days ahead. Keep frozen.
 > CHURN
BABY
CHURN
For the smoothest,
most flavorful frozen
desserts, you need an
ice cream maker that
freezes fast, preventing
crunchy crystals and
excess air. The F&W
test kitchen has you
covered. Ready, set,
spin! KATIE BARREIRA

INTERNAL COMPRESSOR
Built-in refrigeration means
you can churn at the push
of a button with no wait
time. We liked the Breville
Smart Scoop ($400;
brevilleusa.com). Its pre-
cool setting chills the can-
ister to 14°F for a frosty
head start. Snyder’s pick for
home spinning is the Lus-
sino Ice Cream Machine
($700; surlatable.com).
For those looking to make
ice cream an art form, the
results are incomparable.

PREFROZEN CANISTER
These liquid-filled canis-
ters need 24 hours in the
freezer before they see
action, so they’re not ideal
for spontaneous spinning
but are a low-tech option
for occasional ice cream
making. We liked the
KitchenAid Ice Cream
IN A HURRY?
Maker Attachment ($100;
You can sub
kitchenaid.com), which
store-bought
boasted a faster churn
gelato for
time than some compres-
homemade.
sors we tested.

OLD-FASHIONED CRANK
Except for one welcome
advancement—an electric
crank in place of elbow
grease—the Nostalgia
4-Quart Electric Ice Cream
Maker ($48; amazon.com)
makes ice cream the old-
school way: using ice (you’ll
need a large bag of it),
rock salt, and agitation.
There’s more mess, but this
retro model chilled faster
and held gelato at its ideal
temperature just as well as
some machines ten times
more expensive.

JUNE 2018 81
Cracked New Potatoes with
Fennel Raita (p. 101);
OPPOSITE: Lemon-Pickled
Carrots and Beets (p. 89)
 Denver chef Biju
Thomas reimagines
summer vegetables
through the vibrant
flavors and fire-kissed
cooking of his native
Kerala, India.
by Mary-Frances Heck
recipes by Biju Thomas
photography by Jennifer Causey

JUNE 2018 83
 HE FIRST TIME I met Biju Thomas,
we were cooking for pro cyclists
from Colorado. Thomas rolled in
with a suitcase of Indian spices
and the bright idea that making
the food super-flavorful would
keep the athletes, who consumed
upwards of 5,000 calories a day,
from getting bored.
He was right. Yes, there was
curry (and it was spectacular),
and there was biryani, reworked
as a hearty salad studded with
fruit and nuts. But the best dishes
we ate were his vegetable sides.
He layered the flavors of his
native Kerala, India, into every
dish, deploying coconut oil;
piquant chiles; cold, sour yogurt; Romaine Salad with
and salted fresh citrus fruit. He Cracked Olives and Salted-
Lemon Yogurt
always toasted his spices right
Thomas cooled off with salty
before using them—some danced
yogurt lassis as a kid in South
in a dry pan before being finely India, a memory that inspired the
ground. Others he popped in oil dressing on this salad. Big green
olives are a nod to brined baby
before spooning them over a dish
green mangoes, another Indian
at the very last second, a move staple. See p. 89 for the recipe.
called tarka, or tempering.
“In Kerala, the food isn’t subtle;
you don’t ‘gently cook’ anything,”
he said. “We cooked over an open
wood fire when I was a kid. Every-
thing gets toasted or charred,
not quite burnt. It’s an essential
flavor.” That interplay between
sweet, sour, and salty, creamy and
crunchy, spiced and smoked makes
for food that is exciting to cook
and exhilarating to eat—and perfect
for grilling season.

84 JUNE 2018
 Peach and Cashew
Biryani Salad
The addition of dried summer fruits
and lentils transforms a traditional
biryani into an energy- and
flavor-packed salad. Thomas favors
peaches, apricots, and papaya, but
you can customize it to your liking.
See p. 101 for the recipe.
FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN
 Caramelized Coconut
Green Beans
Coconut, a foundational ingredient in
Keralan cooking, provides layers of
flavor for green beans. Thomas
caramelizes fresh coconut meat in
coconut oil then tosses it with chiles,
spices, and fresh green beans to
create a sumptuous summer side
dish. See p. 89 for the recipe.

86 JUNE 2018
 Corn Chaat with
Tomato-Tamarind Chutney
Thomas’ take on corn chaat, an
on-the-go Indian street snack,
features a mouthwatering mix of
grilled corn and sweet tamarind-
tomato chutney, topped with fresh
herbs, green chiles, and salty
toasted corn snacks. See
p. 101 for the recipe.
 Grilled Greens with
Popped Mustard Seeds
and Ginger
Tempering spices, an Indian technique
known as tarka, involves toasting spices
dry or in fat to release their volatile oils.
Here, mustard seeds and aromatics are
fried then spooned over charred greens.
Thomas sprinkles toasty garam masala
over the dish for yet another
layer of flavor. See the
recipe at right.
 WINE PAIRINGS
Better with Bubbles
When pairing wines with Indian food, people tend to
reach for Riesling. But as this spread of dishes makes
clear, Indian flavors go from hot to sweet and everywhere
in between. For a never-fail option, try a dry sparkling
wine: Champagne, Cava, or even a brut-style Prosecco.
Grilled Greens with
Popped Mustard
Seeds and Ginger
PHOTO AT LEF T
TOTAL 25 MIN; SERVES 4
For the best flavor, finish these
chargrilled greens by toasting
and grinding premixed whole
garam masala spices (pack-
aged by Swad and available on
amazon.com).
2 bunches frilly mustard
greens or kale
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 tsp. kosher salt, plus
more to taste
2 lemons, each cut into
4 wedges
5 Tbsp. coconut oil
1 Tbsp. black mustard
seeds
10 curry leaves
1/4 cup sliced shallots
(from 2 medium
shallots)
2 Tbsp. minced peeled
fresh ginger
2 Tbsp. sliced garlic
2 serrano or Fresno
chiles, cut into rings
1/4 tsp. garam masala
1. Preheat a gas grill to high
(450°F to 550°F), or build a
hot fire in a charcoal grill.
Brush mustard greens with
olive oil and sprinkle with 1/2
teaspoon salt. Working in
batches, grill greens in a sin-
gle layer, uncovered, until
blistered and charred, about
30 seconds. Flip and grill until
lightly charred and wilted,
about 30 seconds. Transfer
to a large baking sheet. Place
lemon wedges, flesh side
down, on grates, and grill,
uncovered, until heated
through and caramelized,
about 3 minutes.
2. Remove any tough stems
from greens. Arrange leaves
on a large serving platter.
3. Melt coconut oil in a large
skillet over medium-high. Add
mustard seeds and curry
leaves; cook, shaking skillet,
until mustard seeds splatter
and pop, about 30 seconds.
Increase heat to high, and add
shallots, ginger, garlic, and
chiles. Cook, shaking skillet,
until shallots are crisp and
garlic is golden, 3 to 5 min-
utes. Spoon mixture over
greens. Squeeze charred
lemon wedges over greens.
Sprinkle with garam masala,
and add salt to taste.
Caramelized Coconut
Green Beans
PHOTO P. 86
ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 20 MIN
SERVES 6
If you can’t find fresh coconut,
substitute frozen coconut
chunks (available at Trader
Joe’s or natural food stores).
Kosher salt
1 lb. green beans,
trimmed
2 Tbsp. coconut oil
1 cup fresh or thawed
frozen coconut
chunks, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp. minced garlic
1 tsp. black mustard
seeds
1/2 tsp. cracked black
peppercorns
1 medium yellow onion,
chopped
2 red Thai chiles, split
lengthwise
1 tsp. coriander seeds,
toasted and cracked
1 tsp. flaky sea salt
1. Bring a large pot of salted
water to a boil. Add green
beans; cook until bright green
and crisp-tender, about 3 min-
utes. Drain beans and rinse
under cold water until chilled;
pat dry with a paper towel.
2. Melt coconut oil in a large
cast-iron skillet over medium-
high. Add coconut slices, and
cook until browned on one
side, about 4 minutes. Stir to
loosen coconut; add garlic,
mustard seeds, and pepper-
corns. Cook, stirring often,
until mustard seeds pop,
about 30 seconds. Stir in
onion and chiles. Cook, stir-
ring often, until onion and
coconut are golden around
edges, 3 to 4 minutes.
3. Add green beans to skillet,
and fold to coat. Cook until
green beans are heated
through, about 3 minutes.
Transfer to a platter, and top
with coriander seeds and
flaky sea salt.
Romaine Salad with
Cracked Olives and
Salted-Lemon Yogurt
PHOTO P. 8 4
ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 8 HR 15
MIN; SERVES 12
For the brightest flavor, salt
lemons for the dressing a day
in advance (or purchase pre-
served lemon rind).
2 small lemons
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 cup plain whole-milk
yogurt (not
Greek-style)
1 ( -inch) piece fresh
1/2
ginger, peeled and
thinly sliced
2 heads romaine lettuce,
leaves separated and
torn, if desired
1 English cucumber, cut
into 1/4 -inch-thick
half-moons
1/2 cup thinly sliced red
onion, rinsed
1 cup pitted green olives
(such as Cerignola or
Castelvetrano)
1 1/2 tsp. cumin seeds
1. Using a Y-shaped vegetable
peeler, remove peel from lem-
ons, leaving the white pith.
Place peel strips in a bowl.
Using a small, sharp knife,
remove and discard pith. Cut
lemons into 1-inch pieces, and
place in bowl with peel strips.
Rub salt into lemon mixture
until sandy. Cover and chill 8
hours or overnight.
2. Process lemon pieces,
yogurt, and ginger in a
blender until smooth. Trans-
fer to an airtight container,
and chill until ready to serve.
3. Arrange lettuce, cucumber,
onion, and olives on a large
rimmed platter.
4. Heat a small skillet over
medium. Add cumin seeds,
and cook, stirring often, until
toasted and fragrant, about 1
minute.
5. Drizzle salad with some of
the yogurt dressing, and
sprinkle with toasted cumin.
Serve immediately with
remaining dressing.
Lemon-Pickled
Carrots and Beets
PHOTO P. 8 3
ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 50
MIN; SERVES 6
Thomas serves a version of
this side at every meal, some-
times grating the vegetables
for a relish-like salad.
1 lb. golden beets (about
2 medium)
1 lb. carrots (about 5
large), peeled
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon
juice, plus more to
taste
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. gochugaru
(Korean red pepper
flakes)
1. Place beets in a pot, and add
water to cover by 1 inch. Bring
to a boil over high. Reduce
heat to medium, and simmer
until beets are tender, about
35 minutes. Drain beets.
When cool enough to handle,
rub skins off with a paper
towel. Chill beets until cold.
2. Use a vegetable peeler
or mandoline to cut carrots
lengthwise into very thin
strips. Cut beets into 1-inch
pieces. Place carrots and
beets in a medium bowl.
Add lemon juice, salt, and
gochugaru, and toss to
combine. Cover and chill
at least 1 hour. Add more
lemon juice to taste before
serving, if desired.
recipes continued on p. 101
JUNE 2018 89
F E L LOWSHI P
OF FIRE

NORBERTO PIATTONI
OF NYC’S METTA
RESTAURANT HOSTS
A REUNION THAT
SETS MONTEVIDEO,
URUGUAY, AFLAME AND
PAYS HOMAGE TO THE
ASADO TRADITION.
BY TARAJIA MORRELL
PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETE LEE

91
IT TOOK
FLYING TO THE
SOUTHERN but I’d escaped a New York

HEMISPHERE, winter. It was summer in

Uruguay, and even at twi-
light the air was hot. In the
kitchen fire, potatoes crisped with paprika and tallow in a pan, and onions
roasted in glowing coals. Outside, children lay half asleep on their mothers’
laps, and music married with the clink of glasses. A breeze floated up from
the wide mouth of Montevideo Bay a few blocks away.
A year ago, I’d helped to open Mettā, a wood fire– and fermentation-
centered restaurant on a quiet corner in Fort Greene, Brooklyn. In February,
at the apex of South American summer, our chef, Norberto “Negro” Piattoni,
invited his restaurant team to join him on another quiet corner—in another
hemisphere—to celebrate Mettā’s first birthday and immerse ourselves in
the culture of cooking with fire.
For Piattoni, who grew up in Federación, Argentina, and learned to cook
on his grandfather’s farm, the asado is a long-established tradition, a ritual
to honor time with friends and family. But for Piattoni, the asado also had
become a vocation. He perfected his technique over four years as head chef
at Restaurante Garzón, Argentine chef Francis Mallmann’s temple to grilling
in the Uruguayan ghost town of Garzón. While there, Piattoni also met
Agustina Gagliardi, now the chef-owner of Amorín Provisión, the Monte-
video restaurant Piattoni took over for the reunion.
Friends, family, and former culinary cohorts poured in from the street,
greeting Piattoni as he plated heirloom tomato salads with tart slices of
plum and fresh shiso leaves. Guy Zarate, a brawny Argentine winemaker,
showed up with a case of Rivus Malbec, a special delivery from his Patagonia
vineyard. We settled down for supper at flower-strewn tables.
Piattoni stationed himself at Amorín’s parrillas and planchas, tending
the blaze in the hearth. To bridge this meal with his work at Mettā, he
weaved in fermented flavors, such as using fermented carrots to accompany
whole-roasted white fish. Sweet potatoes, which would furnish a smoky
dessert, smoldered in their skins. No South American meal is complete
without meat, and this homecoming dinner was no different: We tucked
into tri-tip steaks with singed spring onions and dollops of bright chimi-
churri, washed down with swallows of tannic Uruguayan Deicas Tannat.
Piattoni passed dishes from the kitchen to his family, some of whom
were tasting his food for the first time since he’d left South America. Lu
Arjol, a friend of Piattoni’s who’d cooked at Mettā, watched her tablemates
react to their dinner. The fire flavors were familiar, but the fermented notes
were strange and new, a nod to Piattoni’s time abroad. “It’s like a lovely
little corner in Brooklyn that’s suddenly appeared in South America for
just one magical night,” Arjol said, wistfully surveying the scene. She then
turned back to her plate: “Please pass the chimichurri!”
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Norberto Piattoni (in black T-shirt) shopping at the local farmers market in Montevideo for the asado;
Tri-Tip Steak a la Parrilla with Chimichurri and Roasted Onions (p. 95); ripe heirloom tomatoes; Agustina Gagliardi (right),
chef-owner of Amorín Provisión, embraces an early arrival to the party. PREVIOUS SPREAD: Piattoni at the parrilla.

JUNE 2018 93
Piattoni’s Heirloom Tomato and Plum Salad, topped
with shaved persimmon and toasted sesame seeds
(recipe at right).
Beef Tallow Potatoes
with Spicy Paprika
PHOTO P. 96
ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 15
MIN; SERVES 8
These roasted potatoes get
their shatteringly crisp edges
and rich flavor from a gener-
ous basting of rendered beef
fat. Ask your butcher for beef
fat trimmings from prime cuts
like ribs and brisket.
4 lb. fingerling potatoes
2 Tbsp. kosher salt,
divided
6 oz. beef fat trimmings
2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. chili powder
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. hot paprika
1 tsp. sweet paprika
1 tsp. onion powder
1 Tbsp. finely chopped
fresh chives
1. Preheat oven to 500°F.
Place potatoes in a large
saucepan, and add water to
cover by 1 inch. Season with
1 tablespoon salt, and bring
to a boil over high. Reduce
heat to medium, and simmer
until potatoes are tender,
about 10 minutes. Drain pota-
toes and let stand until cool
enough to handle.
2. While potatoes cool, place
beef fat in a small saucepan;
cook over medium-low, stir-
ring often, until rendered to
about 1/2 cup melted fat, 15 to
20 minutes. Pour through a
fine wire-mesh strainer into a
bowl; discard solids.
3. Arrange potatoes on a
rimmed baking sheet. Place a
second rimmed baking sheet
on potatoes, rimmed side up,
and press down gently to
crush potatoes without break-
ing them apart. Drizzle pota-
toes with half of the melted
beef fat; turn potatoes to coat.
4. Roast potatoes in pre-
heated oven until bottoms are
golden, about 15 minutes.
Remove from oven, and
drizzle with remaining melted
beef fat; turn potatoes to coat.
Return to oven, and roast at
500°F until crispy and golden
brown, 25 to 30 minutes.
5. Transfer potatoes to a large
bowl. Sprinkle with vinegar,
chili powder, garlic powder,
hot paprika, sweet paprika,
onion powder, and remaining
1 tablespoon salt; toss to
combine. Place potatoes on a
platter, and top with chives.
MAKE AHEAD Rendered
beef fat may be cooled, then
covered and refrigerated up
to 30 days.
Heirloom Tomato and
Plum Salad
TOTAL 10 MIN; SERVES 8
Juicy plums and ripe toma-
toes have a similar texture and
summertime sweetness, mak-
ing them a natural match for
this colorful salad. Toasted
sesame seeds add crunch,
while fresh shiso and purslane
make this quick side savory.
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
2 lb. heirloom tomatoes,
cut into 2-inch pieces
1 lb. plums, cut into 1/2 -
inch wedges
8 fresh shiso leaves,
thinly sliced, divided
1/2 Fuyu persimmon,
shaved crosswise on a
mandoline (optional)
2 Tbsp. small purslane
sprigs, stemmed, or 1
tsp. fresh lemon thyme
leaves
1 Tbsp. toasted sesame
seeds
Whisk together oil, vinegar,
salt, and pepper in a large
bowl. Add tomatoes, plums,
and half of the shiso leaves to
oil mixture; toss to combine.
Transfer to a platter. Top with
remaining shiso leaves;
persimmon slices, if using;
purslane; and sesame seeds.
Tri-Tip Steak a la
Parrilla with
Chimichurri and
Roasted Onions
1/2 tsp. hot paprika
PHOTO P. 93
1/2 tsp. sweet paprika
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR
5 tsp. kosher salt,
SERVES 10
divided
1 (4-lb.) tri-tip steak
Fish sauce and lots of fresh
marjoram add oomph to the 1 1/2 tsp. black pepper
chimichurri for Norberto Piat- 8 large spring onion
toni’s grilled tri-tip, which he bulbs (about 2 lb.)
serves with “rescoldo” onions,
ones that have been roasted in 1. Stir together parsley, mar-
the embers of the fire. joram, oil, vinegar, garlic, red
pepper, colatura, hot paprika,
4 cups packed fresh flat- sweet paprika, and 1 tea-
leaf parsley leaves, spoon salt until combined.
finely chopped (about
Set chimichurri aside. (Chimi-
1 1/2 cups)
churri may be stored in an air-
1 cup loosely packed tight container in refrigerator
fresh marjoram or
up to 3 days. Bring to room
oregano leaves, finely
chopped (about 1/4 cup) temperature before serving.)
1 cup canola oil 2. Open bottom and top vents
1/2 cup red wine vinegar of a charcoal grill completely.
4 large garlic cloves, Light 2 charcoal chimney
grated starters filled with briquettes
1 tsp. crushed red (about 81/2 cups of briquettes
pepper per chimney). When bri-
1 tsp. colatura (Italian quettes are covered with gray
fish sauce) or Asian ash, pour in an even layer on
fish sauce bottom grate of grill. (Internal
temperature should be about
375°F to 400°F.)
3. Place steak on a rimmed
baking sheet, and season with
black pepper and remaining 4
teaspoons salt. Place steak
on oiled grate, fatty side
Robust Malbecs down, and grill, uncovered,
and Tannats are until charred and browned,
classics for an about 15 minutes. Flip and
grill, uncovered, until a ther-
asado. Try the
mometer inserted in thickest
peppery 2016 portion of steak registers
Achaval-Ferrer 135°F for medium-rare, about
Malbec 13 minutes, or to desired
degree of doneness. Remove
Mendoza ($18), steak from grill, and transfer
the black to a cutting board; let rest 10
cherry–inflected minutes before slicing.
2015 Ricardo 4. While steak rests, cook
Santos Malbec onions. Carefully remove
cooking grate from grill and
($20), or the set aside. Push coals to one
2012 Château side of grill, and arrange
Bouscassé onions in a single layer in
cleared space; scatter coals
Madiran ($20), over onions. Cook until onions
a blend of are charred and insides are
Tannat, Caber- crisp-tender, about 8 min-
utes. Transfer onions to a
net Sauvignon,
metal baking dish, and let
and Cabernet
Franc. continued on p. 98
JUNE 2018 95
 STOKE
THE
FLAMES
South American
asado-style grilling is
having a seven-year
moment. Disciples of
Argentine grillmaster
Francis Mallmann like
Norberto Piattoni,
Ignacio Mattos, and
Germán Martitegui are
taking inspiration from
the custom, which
traditionally is done on
a parrilla, an expansive,
multilevel, wood-fired
Argentine grill. But do
you need a parrilla to
host an asado? Not
really. At their heart,
asados are all about
gathering, cooking,
catching up, and eating
together.
Use all aspects of
your grill, and take your
time: Remember that
hot coals—rather than
huge flames—offer the
best heat for slow
cooking. Frying pans
can rest on embers.
Roast squash and
potatoes in ashes, as
Piattoni does for his
Charred Sweet
Potatoes with
Elecampane Cream
and Honey Gastrique.
Char lemon or orange
halves on a plancha;
their roasted juices
make for a great
finishing touch for
grilled vegetables,
meats, and salads.
(See “The Technique,”
p. 21, for tips on grilling
on a plancha.)

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Asado fires burn late into the night in Montevideo; asado guests enjoy a dance after dinner;
Beef Tallow Potatoes with Spicy Paprika (p. 95). OPPOSITE: A dessert of Charred Sweet Potatoes with Elecampane
Cream and Honey Gastrique (p. 98) provides a smoky, sweet finish to the meal.

96 JUNE 2018
stand until cool enough to
handle, about 5 minutes.
Brush away ashes with a
paper towel.
5. Cut steak against the grain
into 1/2-inch slices, and cut
onions in half lengthwise.
Serve with chimichurri.
Charred Sweet
Potatoes with
Elecampane Cream
and Honey Gastrique
PHOTO P. 97
ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 35
MIN; SERVES 8
Coal-roasting sweet potatoes
caramelizes the flesh while
imparting a smoky aroma.
These are drizzled with a
honey-and-vinegar reduction
and served with whipped
cream infused with musky,
lightly bitter elecampane,
a dried root used in
homeopathic remedies
(available from mountain
roseherbs.com).
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 Tbsp. elecampane root
pieces
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup honey
1/4 cup honey vinegar or
rice vinegar
8 (12-oz.) sweet
potatoes
8 sweet potato leaves,
for garnish (optional)
Bee pollen, for garnish
(optional)
1. Process sugar, elecam-
pane, and salt in a food pro-
cessor until finely chopped,
about 1 minute. Transfer mix-
ture to a bowl; add cream,
and stir until sugar dissolves.
Cover and refrigerate 2 hours.
2. Meanwhile, preheat oven
to 350°F. Bring honey to a boil
in a small saucepan over
medium, and cook until
melted and reduced by one-
fourth, about 3 minutes. Stir
in vinegar; cook, stirring
occasionally, until mixture is
slightly reduced and syrupy, 3
to 4 minutes. Cool to room
temperature, and refrigerate
until chilled.
3. Pour cream mixture
through a fine wire-mesh
strainer into a bowl. Discard
solids. Beat cream with an
electric mixer on medium-
high speed until soft peaks
form, about 3 minutes. Chill
until ready to serve.
4. Arrange sweet potatoes on
a rimmed baking sheet, and
bake in preheated oven just
until fork-tender, 35 to 40
minutes.
5. While potatoes bake, open
bottom and top vents of a
charcoal grill completely.
Light a charcoal chimney
starter filled with briquettes
(about 81/2 cups of bri-
quettes). When briquettes are
covered with gray ash, pour in
an even layer on bottom grate
of grill. (Internal temperature
should be 375°F to 400°F.)
6. Using tongs, nestle sweet
potatoes in coals, and roast
until skins are charred and
sweet potatoes are cooked
through, 15 to 20 minutes.
Transfer to a metal baking
sheet, and let stand until cool
enough to handle. Brush away
ashes with a paper towel. Cut
sweet potatoes into 3/4-inch
slices and divide among 8
shallow bowls. Dollop 2 table-
spoons whipped cream next
to sweet potato in each bowl,
and drizzle with honey gas-
trique. Garnish each with a
sweet potato leaf and a pinch
of bee pollen, if desired.
Grilled Whole Fish with
Tomato-Fennel Sauce
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 55 MIN
SERVES 8
Piattoni slow-grills whole fish
(pictured below) so it stays
juicy and serves it with a
Basque-style sauce of melted
tomatoes and fennel, sea-
soned with paprika, that you’ll
want to put on everything.
2 Tbsp. canola oil
1 large white onion,
thinly sliced (about
2 cups)
1 fennel bulb, thinly
sliced (about 1 3/4 cups)
6 garlic cloves, thinly
sliced (about 1/4 cup)
4 tomatoes, cut
into 1-inch cubes
(about 3 cups)
1 tsp. chili powder
1/2 tsp. hot paprika
2 cups fish or chicken
stock
5 tsp. kosher salt,
divided
1 (4- to 6-lb.) whole fish,
such as black sea bass
or snapper, or 4 (1-lb.)
whole fish, such as
branzino, cleaned
2 Tbsp. grapeseed oil
1. Heat canola oil in a medium
saucepan over medium. Add
onion, fennel, and garlic to
pan; cook, stirring often, until
onion is translucent, about 8
minutes. Stir in tomatoes, chili
powder, and paprika. Reduce
heat to medium-low, and sim-
mer until tomatoes are soft-
ened and slightly broken
down, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in
stock, and increase heat to
medium; cook until reduced
to about 3 cups, about 10 min-
utes. Season with 1 teaspoon
salt. Remove sauce from heat,
and cover to keep warm.
2. Rinse fish under cool run-
ning water, and pat dry with a
paper towel. Place on a large
rimmed baking sheet; drizzle
both sides with grapeseed oil,
and sprinkle all over with
remaining 4 teaspoons salt.
3. Open bottom and top vents
of a charcoal grill completely.
Light 2 charcoal chimney
starters filled with briquettes
(about 81/2 cups of briquettes
per chimney). When bri-
quettes are covered with gray
ash, pour in an even layer
on bottom grate of grill.
(Internal temperature should
be 375°F to 400°F).
4. Place fish on oiled grate,
and grill, uncovered, until
charred and meat pulls away
from bones, about 9 minutes
for large fish and 5 minutes
for smaller fish. Using 2 large
fish spatulas, carefully flip
fish, and grill, uncovered,
until fish is opaque and flaky,
6 to 8 minutes.
5. Using fish spatulas, care-
fully transfer fish to a serving
platter; spoon sauce over
fish, and serve immediately.
Friends and family celebrate the homecoming of Piattoni (standing, in apron), including: his sisters (seated, with their
children); Mettā partner Henry Rich (in glasses); Agustina Gagliardi, owner of Amorín Provisión (standing, pouring wine);
Peter Dowling, another Mettā partner (in blue shirt); and the author, Tarajia Morrell (seated, in green).

JUNE 2018 99
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TOASTED, SMOKED, CHARRED, PICKLED & SPICED from p. 89
Peach and Cashew
Biryani Salad
PHOTO P. 8 5
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR
SERVES 8
Biryani is typically a hot rice dish layered
with meat or vegetables. Biju Thomas’
version is presented as a rice-and-lentil
salad with grilled squash, toasted cashews,
and dried fruit. It’s delicious at any tem-
perature: Pack it for a picnic, or serve it
alongside grilled fish for an easy dinner.
1 cup uncooked green lentils
3 cups water
1 bay leaf
2 Tbsp. plus 1/2 tsp. kosher salt,
divided
2 medium summer squash, cut
lengthwise into 1/2 -inch-thick
planks
1 red onion, cut into 1/2 -inch rounds
2 Tbsp. Madras curry powder
5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil,
divided
5 Tbsp. coconut oil, divided
1 cup raw cashews
1/2 cup dried peach rings, chopped
1/4 cup chopped dried apricots
1/4 cup chopped dried papaya
4 cups cooked basmati rice
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped
1 bunch scallions, chopped
1 cup crispy fried onions or fried
shallots, for garnish
1. Combine lentils, 3 cups water, bay leaf,
and 1 tablespoon salt in a medium sauce-
pan; bring to a boil over medium-high.
Reduce heat to medium, cover, and cook
until lentils are tender, 18 to 20 minutes.
Drain and cool.
2. Meanwhile, preheat grill to high (450°F
to 550°F). Toss together squash, red
onion, curry powder, 1 teaspoon salt, and
1 tablespoon olive oil in a large bowl. Place
squash and onion on grates; grill,
uncovered, turning often, until charred
and crisp-tender, about 8 minutes. When
cool enough to handle, cut vegetables
into bite-size pieces; set aside.
3. Heat 1/4 cup coconut oil in a large skillet
over medium-low. Add cashews, and
cook, shaking skillet, until sizzling, 7 to 8
minutes. Add peaches, apricots, and
papaya, and cook until fruit is puffy and
cashews are golden, about 8 minutes.
Drain mixture on paper towels, and sea-
son with 1/2 teaspoon salt.
4. Place rice in a large bowl, and use your
hands to break up any clumps. Drizzle
with remaining 1/4 cup olive oil and remain-
ing 1 tablespoon coconut oil; season with
1 teaspoon salt. Toss to combine. Gently
fold in cooked lentils, squash, red onion,
cashews, fruit, and lemon juice; season
with pepper and remaining 1 teaspoon
salt. Fold in cilantro and scallions; garnish
with fried onions before serving.
Cracked New Potatoes with
Fennel Raita
PHOTO P. 82
TOTAL 45 MIN; SERVES 4
Thomas uses every part of the fennel
plant in this dish: the bulb, stalks, fronds,
and even a dusting of bright yellow fennel
pollen. Buy fennel pollen from La Boîte
(laboiteny.com), or substitute a pinch of
freshly toasted and ground fennel seed.
1 fennel bulb with stalks
1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
1 cup grated cucumber
1 Tbsp. grated fresh ginger
1 medium shallot, grated (about 2
Tbsp.)
2 Tbsp. lemon juice, divided
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1/4 tsp. black pepper, divided
1 lb. new potatoes
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1/4 cup fresh mint leaves
1/2 tsp. fennel pollen or 1 tsp. toasted
and cracked fennel seeds
1. Pick fronds from fennel stalks to equal
1/4 cup; finely chop fronds, and set aside.
Remove stalks from bulb, and cut stalks
crosswise into 1/8-inch-thick rounds to
equal 1/2 cup; set aside. Quarter fennel
bulb lengthwise through core; set aside.
2. Stir together fennel fronds, yogurt,
cucumber, ginger, shallot, 1 tablespoon
lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 tea-
spoon pepper in a medium bowl. Chill
until ready to serve.
3. Meanwhile, preheat a grill to medium-
high (about 450°F). Place potatoes in a
microwavable bowl; cover and microwave
at high until potatoes are about halfway
cooked, about 5 minutes. (A fork should
meet with some resistance when inserted
into a potato.)
4. Place potatoes on oiled grates, and
grill, uncovered, turning often, until
cooked through and charred, 6 to 8 min-
utes. Transfer potatoes to a bowl, and
cover with aluminum foil to keep warm.
5. Toss fennel bulb quarters with oil,
and sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon salt and
remaining 1/8 teaspoon black pepper.
Place on oiled grates, and grill, uncov-
ered, turning often, until cooked through
and charred on all sides, about 10 min-
utes. Transfer to a cutting board, and cut
into 1/2-inch wedges.
6. Spoon yogurt mixture onto a rimmed
platter, and top with fennel wedges. Halve
potatoes, arrange over fennel, and sprin-
kle with remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Toss
together fennel stalk slices with remain-
ing 1 tablespoon lemon juice in a small
bowl; scatter over potatoes. Tear mint
leaves, and scatter over platter; sprinkle
with fennel pollen.
Corn Chaat with
Tomato-Tamarind Chutney
PHOTO P. 87
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 35 MIN
SERVES 4
This addictive, vegetable-forward snack
hits every flavor note: It’s sweet, sour,
salty, and spicy with every bite. An aro-
matic tamarind-tomato chutney, infused
with ginger and clove, brightens the dish,
and a topping of curry-spiced crushed
toasted corn snacks adds savory crunch.
CHUTNEY
1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil
1 (1/2 -inch) piece fresh ginger,
peeled and chopped
2 dried red chiles (such as chiles de
árbol)
1/2 tsp. black peppercorns, cracked
2 whole cloves
6 plum tomatoes (1 1/4 lb.), cored
and chopped
1/2 cup packed jaggery or dark brown
sugar
1 Tbsp. tamarind paste
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
CORN CHAAT
1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
JUNE 2018 101
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 2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. fresh lemon
juice (from 1 lemon), divided
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
6 ears fresh sweet corn, shucked
(or 4 cups thawed frozen corn
kernels)
1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil
1 Tbsp. coconut oil, melted
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint
1/4 cup chopped scallions
1 Tbsp. finely chopped serrano
chile (from 1/2 [1-oz.] chile)
3/4 cup finely chopped toasted corn
snacks (such as Corn Nuts),
divided
1/2 tsp. Madras curry powder

1. Make the chutney: Heat grapeseed

oil in a medium saucepan over medium-
high. Add ginger, chiles, peppercorns,
and cloves; cook, stirring often, until
ginger is soft and spices are toasted,
about 1 minute. Add tomatoes, sugar,
tamarind paste, and salt. Bring to a boil,
stirring and breaking up tomatoes with a
wooden spoon. Cook, stirring often, until
tomatoes have broken down and sauce
is thickened, 20 to 25 minutes. Let mix-
ture cool slightly, and transfer to a
blender. Process until smooth, about 1
minute. Transfer to a bowl; cover and
refrigerate until cold.
2. Make the corn chaat: Preheat a grill
to high (450°F to 550°F). Whisk together
yogurt, cumin, 2 tablespoons lemon
juice, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a medium
bowl until smooth.
3. Brush corn with grapeseed oil. Place
corn on grates, and grill, uncovered,
turning often, until kernels are charred,
10 to 12 minutes. When corn is cool
enough to handle, cut kernels from corn
into a large bowl; discard cobs. (If using
thawed frozen corn, heat a cast-iron
skillet over high until smoking. Add corn
in an even layer, and cook, without
moving, until kernels are charred and
begin to release from skillet, about 4
minutes.) Add coconut oil, remaining 2
teaspoons lemon juice, and remaining
1/2 teaspoon salt to bowl; stir to combine.

Add cilantro, mint, scallions, serrano

chile, and 1/2 cup toasted corn snacks;
toss to combine.
4. Divide corn mixture evenly among 4
serving bowls; top with chutney and
yogurt mixture. Stir together curry pow-
der and remaining 1/4 cup toasted corn
snacks, and sprinkle over corn mixture.

MAKE AHEAD Chutney can be made up

to 1 week ahead.
AT MY TABLE from p. 106
Bumbleberry Buttermilk
Upside-Down Cake
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 20 MIN
SERVES 8
Gail Simmons’ lemony cake is the perfect
canvas for “bumbleberry,” a mix of at least
three kinds of summer berries.
3/4 cup unsalted butter (6 oz.), cubed,
at room temperature, divided
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar, divided
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
2 cups mixed fresh berries (such
as blueberries, raspberries, and
blackberries [blackberries
halved if large])
4 tsp. lemon zest, divided
2 large eggs
1 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour (about 5 3/4
oz.)
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 cup whole buttermilk
Powdered sugar, for dusting
Sweetened whipped cream, for
serving (optional)
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Melt 1/4 cup
butter in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over
medium. Stir in lemon juice, 1/2 cup sugar,
and 1/2 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring, until
mixture is bubbly and sugar is mostly
dissolved, about 2 minutes. Remove skil-
let from heat.
2. Toss berries and 2 teaspoons lemon
zest in a medium bowl until combined.
Arrange berries evenly over sugar mixture
in skillet. (If using halved large blackber-
ries, place cut sides up.) Set aside.
3. Place remaining 1/2 cup butter and
remaining 1 cup sugar in bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.
Beat on high speed until mixture is light
and fluffy, about 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce
speed to medium. Add eggs, 1 at a
time, beating well after each addition.
Beat in vanilla extract and remaining
2 teaspoons lemon zest.
4. Whisk together flour, baking powder,
baking soda, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon
salt in a medium bowl. Add flour mixture
one-third at a time to butter mixture
alternately with buttermilk, beginning
and ending with flour mixture, beating on
low speed until just combined after each
addition. Spoon batter over berry mixture
in skillet, and spread gently over berries.
5. Place skillet on a rimmed baking sheet.
Bake in preheated oven until cake is
lightly browned and a wooden pick
inserted in center of cake comes out
clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Remove from
oven, and let cool 30 minutes.
6. Run a butter knife around edge of cake;
place skillet over low to just warm bottom,
about 2 minutes. Remove skillet from
heat; carefully invert cake onto a large
plate. Serve cake lightly dusted with pow-
dered sugar and, if desired, with whipped
cream on the side.
 P RO M OT I O N

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 AT M Y TA B L E

with
GAIL
SIMMONS

Batter Up
HELPFUL HINT IT’S ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE FOR ME not to associate the onset of sundaes and buckwheat pancakes to
Don’t be discour- summer with bumbleberries, a fantastical term, common in crumbles and crisps.
aged if the cake my homeland of Canada, referring to a jumble of in-season This fruit-laden upside-down cake is
batter seems thick berries (usually a minimum of three types: blueberries, a direct product of my long-standing FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: AUDREY DAVIS
or difficult to
blackberries, and raspberries). They are tossed together and obsession. Loaded with a fresh mix of
spread over the
berry mixture in cooked into a pie, jam, or other juicy concoction. The theory is berries and a healthy spoonful of lemon
the skillet. It will that the magically complex combination of berries provides a zest, swirled with buttermilk for extra
loosen and spread depth of flavor and a distinct vibrancy that just can’t be achieved moisture and just a hint of tartness, it
out evenly while
using one berry alone. just may be my greatest bumbleberry
baking.
To this day, the word “bumbleberry” conjures memories of triumph to date! Its simple beauty lies
my childhood-favorite pies and tarts, discovered at county fairs not only in the satisfaction of inverting
RECIPE P. 104 or small-town markets and “pick-your-own” farms that lined the golden vanilla cake and seeing the
the highway between my home and what we call “cottage berries transformed into a blanket of
country.” And so each June, I find myself drawn back into the warm, sweet magenta, but also in the
kitchen, berries in hand, to create recipe variations galore, knowledge that if bumbleberries abound,
adding bumbleberries to everything from cocktails to ice cream summer is most certainly here.

106 JUNE 2018 photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

 1(:
) / $9 2 5 6

7+,6,6385(/($) 
7($+286(&2//(&7,21
PREMIUM ORGANIC TEA. EXQUISITE INGREDIENTS. EXTRAORDINARY TASTE.

©2018 PURE LEAF, the PURE LEAF logo and the TEA HOUSE COLLECTION logo are registered trademarks of the Unilever Group of Companies used under license.
 Refined notes.
With an earthy finish.
The New, Reimagined 2019 Cherokee.
For the connoisseur of tasteful design.

© 2018 FCA US LLC. All rights reserved. Jeep is a registered trademark of FCA US LLC.