WEAVING

TECHNOLOGY
 Weaving
The textile art in which two distinct sets of
yarns or threads, called the warp and the
filling or weft (older woof), are interlaced
with each other to form a fabric or cloth.

The warp threads run lengthways of the

piece of cloth, and the weft runs across
from side to side.
Yarn Preparation For Weaving Process

Weaving Principles

Basic Mechanism of Warp & Cloth Control

Weaving Structure

Woven Fabric Analysis

Yarn Preparation Process Diagram

WARP YARN, WEFT YARN

1.0 WARPING

2.0 SIZING

3.0 DRAW-IN / TYING-IN

WEAVING
1.0 WARPING

The warping process transfers the yarn from

multiple packages to a section beam.

To produce a quality beam suitable for weaving, the

following must be accomplished:

1) no lint, fly, wild yarn

2) no high or low selvage
3) maintain warper speed
4) maintain braking systems
5) no crossed or loose ends
6) uniform tension across beam
7) uniform tension beam to beam
8) smooth section beams, rollers
creel

warpers beam
 2.0 SIZING

• Application of sizing chemical to yarns

• The purposes of sizing process are :

1) To reduce the yarn hairiness that would interfere with the

weaving process.

2) To protect the yarn from various yarn-to-yarn and

yarn-to-loom abrasion.

3) To increase the strength of the yarn

Schematic of a simple sizing configuration
 3.0 DRAWING-IN

• Entering of yarns from a new warp into the weaving elements of

a weaving machine (drop wires, healds, and reed) when staring
up a new fabric style.

Drop wires Healds Reed

The passage of the warp through a loom
 3.0 TYING-IN

Tying-in the new warp ends to the depleted warp is done when a new
pattern is not required.

Fuh…letihnyer….
 Weaving Principles

Weaving means to make cloth

and other objects. Threads or
strands of material are passed
under and over each other.

Like this…
In order to interlace warp and weft threads to produce fabric on any
type of weaving machine, three operations are necessary :

A) Shedding
Separating the warp threads, which run down the fabric into two
layers to form a tunnel known as the shed

B) Picking
Passing the weft thread, which traverses across the fabric, through
the shed

C) Beating-up
Pushing the newly inserted length of weft, known as the pick, into
the already woven fabric at a point known as the fell
Shedding
 A. Shedding occurs here…

Shedding is the lifting of

some of the warp yarns, so
that the warp is divided into
2 sheets. This creates an
opening (a shed) between
them for the weft carrier to
k s
p ic pass through.

C. Beating-up…
The inserted pick is
consolidated or ‘beaten-up’
into the fabric when the
new pick is pushed into the
B. Picking… cloth-fell by the reed.
The weft yarn taken from
one side of the warp
through the shed.
Basic Mechanism of Warp & Weft Control

Cloth control (or take-up)

This motion withdraws
fabric from the
weaving area at the
constant rate that will
give the required pick-
spacing and then
winds it onto a roller

Warp control (or let-off)

This motion delivers warp to the weaving area
at the required rate and at a suitable constant
tension by unwinding it from a flanged tube
known as the weaver’s beam
Auxiliary Functions :

• Temples – hold the cloth firm at the fell to assist in the formation of a uniform fabric

• A drop wire assembly, one wire for each warp yarn, to stop the loom when a warp
end is slack or broken

• A tension sensing and compensating whip roll assembly to maintain tension in the
warp sheet

• A mechanism to stop the loom when a filling yarn breaks

• Filling feeders to control tension on each pick

• Pick mixers to blend alternate picks from two or more packages (up to eight)

• Filling selection mechanism for feeding multi-type filling patterns

• Filling selvage devices such as trimmers, tuckers, holders and special weave
harnesses for selvage warp ends
Methods of weft insertion :

• Shuttle

• single or multiple grippers or projectiles

• Rapiers

• Needles

• fluid jet, water jet, or air jet

• various other method

Shedding System Method:

• Crank

• Cam
http://www.elearningtextiles.co.uk/Content/WeavingTechnology20/tabid/109/Default.aspx

• Dobby

• Jacquard
 Weaving Structure
Plain Weave

• The simplest of the weaves and the most common

• Consists of interlacing warp and filling yarns in a pattern of over

one and under one.

Balanced weave

Plain weave Rib weaves

Basket weaves
Twill Weave
Satin Weave

Warp faced satin weave

filling faced satin weave

 Woven Fabric Analysis
There are several analysis that can be done to the woven fabric.

Warp Density
Number of warp ends per unit length of fabric – spacing between warp threads.
Units: ends per cm (e.p.c) or ends per inch (e.p.i)

Weft Density
Number of picks per unit length of fabric – spacing between weft threads.
Unit: picks per cm (p.p.c) or picks per inch (p.p.i)

Count of cloth
The closeness or looseness of the weave.
Determined by the number of picks and ends (filling and warps) to the square inch.

Fabric Weight
Fabric weight is expressed in grams per square meter (W/m2) or in grams per meter of
the fabric with full width (W/m)
Crimp (waviness of yarns)

% Crimp, %c = [(ly – lfab) / lfab] x 100

Fabric Take up

% Take up, %t = [(ly – lfab) / ly] x 100