Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
Fiber Quality
Roving Quality Contents 1
Yarn Quality
1 About the Origin and the Significance
of the USTER® STATISTICS 4
1.1 Introduction 4
1.2 USTER STATISTICS as Benchmarks
®
5
1.3 USTER STATISTICS for Yarn Contracts and Product Specifications 5
®
3 Restrictions 14
3.1 Restrictions Imposed by the Raw Material 14
3.2 Restrictions Imposed by the Final Product 15
3.3 Restrictions Imposed by the Yarn Design 15
3.4 Missing Correlation Between Different Quality Characteristics 15
3.5 Outliers and Frequent Defects in a Spinning Mill 16
3.6 Restrictions in Guarantee Agreements 16
3.7 Reproducibility and Variability of Measurements 16
7 Validity 24
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
8 Disclaimer 25
10 Appendix 29
10.1 Fiber Properties 29
10.1.1 Fiber Bundle Testing 29
10.1.2 Single Fiber Testing 30
10.1.3 Ambient Laboratory Conditions for Fiber Testing 31
10.2 Fiber Processing 32
10.3 Roving Testing 33
10.4 Yarn Testing 34
10.4.1 Count Variation Testing 35
10.4.2 Mass Variation Testing 36
10.4.3 Yarn Hairiness Testing 36
10.4.4 Imperfections Testing 37
10.4.5 Yarn Diameter, Cross-sectional Shape and Density Testing 38
10.4.6 Yarn Trash and Yarn Dust Testing 38
10.4.7 Twist Testing 39
10.4.8 Tensile Properties Testing 39
10.4.9 HV Tensile Properties Testing 41
10.4.10 Ambient Laboratory Conditions for Yarn Testing 42
10.5 Useful Conversions 43
10.5.1 English/Metric Conversions 43
10.5.2 Count Conversions 44
10.5.3 Staple Conversion Chart 44
10.5.4 Special Conversions 44
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
Slivers NEW
Contents 1
1 Introduction 2
2 Restrictions 4
5 Sliver Quality 8
5.1 Mass Variations 8
5.2 Testing Conditions 8
6 Validity 9
7 Disclaimer 10
Fiber
to Yarn Introduction 1
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
1 About the Origin and the
Significance of the USTER® STATISTICS
1.1 Introduction
The USTER® STATISTICS are quality reference figures which permit a classifica-
tion of fibers, slivers, rovings and yarns with regard to world production. The last
USTER® STATISTICS for cotton fibers and yarns were published in 2001. The
USTER® STATISTICS 2007 again address cotton fibers, rovings and yarns. We
will later turn to the restrictions regarding the use of the USTER® STATISTICS.
We recommend to read these restrictions carefully and adhere to them. When
used properly the USTER® STATISTICS will continue to be appreciated as refer-
ence figures by all groups of interested people.
The USTER® STATISTICS are first and foremost a practical guide to «good textile
practices» in the field of yarn manufacturing. The evidence of specific defects or
shortcomings in overall yarn quality, which may become apparent through using
the STATISTICS as a comparative standard, can be translated into immediate
corrective action in the manufacturing process. Reliable and unequivocal cause/
effect relationships have been established over the years and documented in
the application literature. Legions of textile technologists and USTER® instrument
users in mills around the world put that experience into action in their daily rou-
tine. In the previous edition of the USTER® STATISTICS, we introduced a graph
which illustrated the improvement in yarn evenness between 1957 and 2001.
Now, six years later, we publish the same diagram again (Fig. 1). Two additional
data points were added to the curves, i.e. the evenness values of the 50% line of
the USTER® STATISTICS 2007. A further improvement in yarn evenness can be
recognized in Fig. 1 for combed cotton yarns.
As described in the USTER® STATISTICS 2001, the USTER® STATISTICS 2007
also distinguish between knitting yarns and weaving yarns for ring-spun yarns.
Buyers and salesmen involved in the traditional commodity type trade or in direct
purchasing and sales are certainly among the most enthusiastic users of the
USTER® STATISTICS. They appreciate the STATISTICS as a means of categoriz-
ing many different qualities by face value. An indistinct yet popular belief prevails
in the international markets for reasonably priced yarns that largely correspond
to the 25th percentile of the USTER® STATISTICS to be in high demand. Every
now and then, such a belief manifests an utter quality overkill with regard to the
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
actual processing and end use requirements; in other cases, such specifications
may well be justified.
In the long run, however, the market as a whole is and will continue to be driven
by the rule of supply and demand, irrespective of where, when, and by whom
the STATISTICS are referred to in order to advertise or bargain. Good grades on
the overall quality, though, will always serve as a passport to both the domestic
and international markets.
1.4 USTER® STATISTICS for Textile Machinery
Manufacturers
Textile machinery manufacturers as well as manufacturers of accessories for tex-
tile machines have frequently been using the USTER® STATISTICS to appraise
the impact on quality of their new developments in the field of machine tech-
nology or monitoring and control systems. While machine performance in
terms of productivity or efficiency is easily expressed in absolute numbers, the
STATISTICS are frequently referred to when it comes to quality aspects. The
other side of the coin is that the machinery manufacturers have also been
forced into the routine of giving performance guarantees based on the USTER®
STATISTICS. Again, this particular issue falls into the category of restrictive uses
and will be addressed later.
2 Quality Characteristics of the USTER®
STATISTICS 2007 and Their Significance
The USTER® STATISTICS 2007 include all the quality characteristics which were
published already in the USTER® STATISTICS 2001. In addition to this, we were
able to contribute with some more quality characteristics of fibers and yarns
in the USTER® STATISTICS 2007. For the first time we publish Foreign Fiber
STATISTICS for the USTER® CLASSIMAT QUANTUM.
The following list encompasses all quality characteristics featured in the USTER®
STATISTICS 2007. It is subdivided into tables for fibers and tables for yarns.
Description of cotton fiber quality characteristics
(USTER® AFIS)
The fiber length diagram determined by means of the USTER® HVI instrument is
not an end-aligned staple diagram and is called fibrogram. Fig. 2 is a schematic
fibrogram of cotton.
Fig. 2 Fibrogram
The USTER® AFIS instrument measures each fiber separately and, therefore, all
the information for an end-aligned staple diagram is available. Fig. 3 illustrates
how the «Upper Quartile Length» (UQL) and the short fiber content are deter-
mined using the USTER® AFIS. The UQL is the fiber length at 25%. The term
«upper quartile» indicates that the value is calculated at the upper quarter of the
staple diagram.
Fig. 4 and Fig. 5 show the definition of the measured values in relation to the
maturity characteristics. The respective parameters can be explained using
Fig. 4. Fig. 4 shows the cross-section of a cotton fiber.
Fig. 5 shows a maturity measurement using the USTER® AFIS as well as the val-
ues computed for theta.
10
Description of yarn quality characteristics
(USTER® TESTER)
11
Description of yarn quality characteristics
(USTER® TENSORAPID)
12
Description of yarn quality characteristics
(USTER® TENSOJET)
Quality Abbreviation Description Unit
characteristics
Strength (Force) FH Breaking force cN
13
3 Restrictions
This section addresses the restrictions that apply to the use of the USTER®
STATISTICS and we would like to repeat our advice that this be read carefully and
adhered to. Both deliberate and unintentional misuse of the STATISTICS have
in some instances in the past resulted in lengthy and costly disputes – all of
which could have been avoided if all parties involved would have had the same
clear understanding of the concept underlying the STATISTICS. The reading of
this section is a must for those who are not familiar with that concept, with the
STATISTICS as such, or with the proper interpretation of the data.
In those rare cases where the STATISTICS have been corrupted, the motives
have always been related to what evidently is the single most important driving
force in the global textile scenario: price. The USTER® STATISTICS, however, pro-
vide a dependable indication of quality, exclusively. Although quality is a some-
what elusive term, it is nevertheless a result of tangible assets and thus to a
certain degree interrelated with the sales price of a product.
14
3.2 Restrictions Imposed by the Final Product
It lies in the nature of the matter that end uses remain somewhat vague when
yarns are marketed via merchants or importers. It is rare for any merchant to
have firm orders before entering into a contract. Consequently, the focus is on
obtaining qualities that are likely to meet the requirements of any potential cus-
tomer and which can be successfully marketed in many places and at any given
point in time. In the current buyer’s market, merchants have a large number of
alternative sources to choose from. Yet, to minimize risk, commodity type yarns
with high volume of trade are preferred. Under these circumstances, specified
and actual quality requirements seem to have very little in common.
15
3.5 Outliers and Frequent Defects in a
Spinning Mill
It is a popular illusion that yarns with a high rating according to the USTER®
STATISTICS are always above and beyond suspicion. A good overall quality does
not only encompass excellent mean values but also low variability of the qual-
ity attributes as well as unconditional consistency. Only one bad package in the
creel of a knitting machine or in warping is bound to ruin several hundred yards
of greige fabric. We have come a long way in gaining control over sporadic yarn
defects by on-line quality monitoring and over scattered weak places by applying
the USTER® TENSOJET. Every now and then, however, various off-quality situa-
tions tend to recur with malicious persistence in spite of the blind faith often put
in the USTER® STATISTICS ratings. These include outliers, mix-ups, overlength/
underlength or damaged packages, problems with package unwinding behavior,
missing transfer tails, improper waxing, shedding and fly, dye streaks (barré),
white specks, contamination with foreign fibers – just to name a few. Quality in
a broader sense has many dimensions: A truckload of 5% USTER® STATISTICS
yarn that arrives too late at the weaver’s loading ramp will not be considered a
quality product. Timing is vital due to the seasonal characteristic of the textile
business with its frequent peak demands and, of course, due to the increasing
popularity of just-in-time and quick response production.
16
ment value is located somewhere within that interval. All USTER® instruments
calculate the confidence intervals automatically and they are part of the test
report. The confidence interval covers the random error component; information
on the systematic error, i.e. instrument tolerances, is provided in our application
handbooks.
When comparing actual measurements with the data illustrated in the USTER®
STATISTICS, it is of utmost importance that the total measurement error is kept
to an absolute minimum to warrant compatibility. If this is not the case, false
conclusions may be drawn from such a comparison.
There are four items that can be done to minimize the measurement error:
When actual measurements are then compared with the USTER® STATISTICS,
they would appear in the nomogram as a short vertical line – not as a dot. The
top and bottom ends of that line represent the upper and lower limits of the
confidence interval with the mean exactly in the middle. We cannot eliminate the
random error; however, the confidence interval quickly becomes smaller when
the sample size is increased. For detailed information on recommended sample
sizes and testing conditions, please refer to section 9.
17
4 The Making of the USTER® STATISTICS
The USTER® STATISTICS are not established by merely collecting data. They are
established by testing actual yarn and fiber samples that we procure on a truly
global scale via our agents, overseas partners, or direct contacts with our inter-
national clientele. Several thousand samples have been tested in our ISO 9001
certified textile laboratory in Uster, Switzerland. The geographical distribution of
the origin of all samples procured for the USTER® STATISTICS is illustrated in
Fig. 6. The total volume of samples was tested between spring 2002 and 2006.
Europe
20%
Asia & Oceania
51%
North & South
Africa
America
17% 12%
Fig. 6 Geographical distribution of the origin of all samples procured for the USTER®
STATISTICS 2007
All data were entered into a databank and application software specifically devel-
oped for this purpose was employed to compute the percentile curves and to
plot the graphical representations. The lion’s share of the total time spent was
definitely devoted to thoroughly testing the samples in the laboratory. Our data-
bank has grown to an enormous size and consists of far more quality parameters
than have been published in this edition of the USTER® STATISTICS.
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
18
5 Interpreting and Applying the
USTER® STATISTICS
The most important element of the USTER® STATISTICS are the nomograms with
the percentile curves. The width of the percentile curves intentionally imposes
certain restrictions on accuracy – a subtle reminder of the pronounced variability
of most textile measurements. Depending on the quality parameter displayed
on the ordinate (vertical or y-axis), the curves are plotted over staple length, pro-
cess stage, yarn count, or defect category and the abscissa (horizontal or x-axis)
is calibrated accordingly. The x-axis should be the starting point of any analysis.
The percentile curves refer to the percentage of the total world production which
equals or exceeds the measurement value given for a particular yarn or fiber
description. An example:
The coefficient of variation of the yarn mass of an Ne 30 (Nm 50, 20 tex) 100%
combed cotton ring-spun yarn for knitted fabrics has an evenness of CVm = 13%.
A vertical line drawn from the x-axis at Ne 30 intersects with the horizontal line
drawn from the y-axis at 13% right at the 75th percentile line. Hence, 75% of all
Ne 30 combed cotton ring-spun yarns produced worldwide have a CVm of 13.0%
or better. Vice versa, 25% of the total world production of comparable Ne 30
yarns exhibit a CVm higher than 13%.
The 50th percentile curve, commonly referred to as the 50% line, corresponds to
the median. In general terms, the median is the middle number when the mea-
surements in a data set are arranged in ascending (or descending) order, i.e. 50%
of all observations exceed this value and the other 50% lie below. Depending on
whether the frequency distribution of a given quality parameter is symmetric or
skewed, the median may or may not be different from the mean.
In some instances, adjacent percentile curves fell very close together. To avoid
the formation of a solid red block, both the 25% line and 75% line were omitted,
thus maintaining the clarity of the illustration.
The nomograms in the fiber properties section as well as the ones in the fiber-to-
yarn and yarn quality sections for combed cotton ring-spun yarns comprise two
independent sets of percentile curves. The two sets of curves each characterize
a distinct cluster or isolated population within the same graph. We will look at
the cotton fiber properties first to explain the reasons for this differentiation: The
horizontal position of the split point at a staple length of 30...31 mm marks the
approximate center of the transition zone from both short and medium-staple
cottons on one hand to long and extra long-staple cottons on the other. With that
transition, several factors change fundamentally. These factors include genetic,
botanical, and physiological differences, agricultural methods, environmental
influences, harvesting and ginning practices, all of which have a decisive impact
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
on fiber properties. On the yarn side, things are much simpler. Here, the divi-
sion between Ne 41 (Nm 70, 14 tex) and Ne 47 (Nm 80, 12.5 tex) indicates the
yarn count threshold for using longer staple, high-grade cottons with an over-
all superior fiber quality, for increasing comber noil extraction, and for modify-
ing the overall processing conditions accordingly. Selecting higher quality cotton
fibers and adjusting the processing conditions is necessary to raise the spin limit
towards the finer counts. Naturally, in the fiber-to-yarn nomograms for combed
roving, the two clusters occur as well. The curves had to be split at exactly the
same position on the yarn count axis. The graphs provide an opportunity to study
these effects of raw material selection and processing.
19
5.2 Comparability of Practical Measurements
and Data Provided in the USTER® STATISTICS
When comparisons are made between practical measurements and the data
provided in the USTER® STATISTICS, it is important to consider all aspects that
may impair compatibility. Please make sure that the instruments are in proper
technical condition and calibrated correctly. Periodic maintenance through autho-
rized Uster Technologies service personnel is a guarantee for trouble-free per-
formance and accurate measurement results. Instrument settings and testing
speeds should be identical to those used for testing in the framework of the
USTER® STATISTICS. These settings and speeds are listed in the appendix along
with recommendations concerning an adequate sample size, which is equally
important. Please refer to the operating instructions of the instruments for fur-
ther technical details. Testing must be carried out under constant standard atmo-
spheric conditions. The standard atmosphere for textile testing involves a tem-
perature of 20±2 °C (68±4 °F) and 65±2% relative humidity (ISO 139). Prior to
testing, samples must be conditioned to moisture equilibrium under constant
standard atmospheric conditions. To attain the moisture equilibrium, a condition-
ing time of at least 24 hours is required, 48 hours is preferred. For samples with
a high moisture content, conditioning time should be at least 48 hours unless the
samples are preconditioned, so that the moisture equilibrium is later approached
from the dry side.
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
20
6 Changes and Improvements
Yarns with twist multipliers below these values have been classified as knitting
yarns.
When the first USTER® STATISTICS for imperfections were published in 1957,
a decision was taken after prolonged testing to define the following thresholds:
thins –50%, thicks +50%, neps +200%. These values refer to the mean number
of fibers in a cross-section of a yarn.
In addition, not only the tenacity but also the strength of yarns were determined
during the tensile tests for the USTER® STATISTICS.
21
6.4 New: Yarn Twist Characteristics
The amount of twist placed in a staple spun yarn is important from a technical
viewpoint because of its effect on physical properties and performance and on
finished product appearance. It is of course also important from a production
standpoint because with every turn of twist there is an accompanying loss in pro-
ductivity and an increase in cost. Twist also impacts fabric appearance, fullness,
hand, weight, and strength.
With the integration of a twist tester in the product range of Uster Technologies,
we are now able to provide USTER® STATISTICS also for the important quality
parameter of the twist. Besides the absolute twist of the yarn, which is usually
given by the end use, the variation of the twist plays a more important role in the
evaluation of the yarn quality. Therefore, the absolute twist should not be inter-
preted as a quality parameter of the yarn, but as a guideline, which twist levels
are used in the textile industry.
In this first edition of the USTER® STATISTICS for twist, we can present bench-
marks for 14 different materials:
• 100% CO, ring yarn, combed & carded, knitting and weaving, bobbins
• 50/50%, PES/CO, ring yarn, bobbins
• 50/50%, 67/33%, 65/35% PES/CO, ring yarn, carded & combed, bobbins
• 100% PES, ring yarn, bobbins
• 100% WO, ring yarns, worsted, bobbins
• 55/45% PES/WO, worsted, bobbins
• 100% CV, ring yarn, bobbins
• 50/50%, 70/30%, PES/CV, ring yarn, bobbins
Tried and tested for many years, the classification matrix consists of 23 classes
for the classification of "normal" thick and thin places. For a better assessment of
yarn types with different structures, such as ply yarns or compact yarns, the clas-
sification matrix was extended by 4 additional classes. Of course, the extended
classes can also be used for conventional yarns and can even provide additional
helpful information.
Thick places are counted if the mean mass of a yarn is exceeded by at least
100% in the case of short faults or by 45% in the case of faults over 8 cm. With
thin places, however, the actual value must be at least –30% below the mean
value. The positive and the negative range of the top and bottom classes are
open as well.
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
In the yarn fault classification, the yarn faults are entered in the CLASSIMAT
matrix according to the fault length and fault cross-section. The faults are identi-
fied with a letter and a number. The letters stand for the fault length and the num-
ber indicates the deviation of the cross-section in comparison to the perfect yarn.
Fig. 7 shows the standard matrix with 23 classes. For ply yarns and compact
yarns there exist classes between +75% and +100%.
22
Fig. 7 Classification matrix for disturbing thick and thin places
Disturbing thick and thin places up to Ne 60 were measured with the capaci-
tive clearer USTER® QUANTUM C20. The thick and thin places from Ne 61 to
Ne 170 were measured with the clearer USTER® QUANTUM C15. However, it
is not required that the CLASSIMAT operator has to switch over to a different
measuring head at Ne 60.
23
7 Validity
The information provided with this edition supersedes all the descriptions per-
taining to yarn quality published in previous editions of the USTER® STATISTICS.
The quality of industrially manufactured goods is a moving target. It depends on
a multitude of factors, most of which are an intrinsic function of time. The depen-
dence on time is predominantly related to the state of technology of the produc-
tive assets and the technological know-how prevalent in the industry. Time is
also a factor in determining the overall economic environment, the supply and
demand situation, as well as general consumer attitudes and behavior. All of the
above, acting jointly or separately, may have an effect on the quality of raw mate-
rials, semi-processed, or finished textile goods. Consequently, the validity of the
information provided in the USTER® STATISTICS 2007 is confined to the period of
time actually covered by the data. The data are essentially of historical nature by
the time this document is published. Naturally, such information will not sustain
its initial significance as time progresses and eventually become obsolete unless
it is updated at some point in the future. Therefore, the information presented in
this document in either verbal, numerical, or graphical form is subject to change
at any time without prior or public notice. Conventional wisdom proves, how-
ever, that the USTER® STATISTICS maintain their significance over an extended
period of five years or more.
With no exceptions, all the information provided in the USTER® STATISTICS 2007
relates to data which have been established using USTER® products. USTER®
products are designed, manufactured, and distributed by Uster Technologies,
Switzerland, and Uster Technologies Inc., USA, or authorized licensees, exclu-
sively. Any attempt to utilize the information provided in this document in con-
junction with data originating from sources other than USTER® instruments may
result in some form of failure or damage. The USTER® STATISTICS are intended
for use as a manual of comparative STATISTICS complementing the operational
installations of USTER® products at the customer site. For technical details on
how to ensure proper agreement between the data presented in this document
and data established with other USTER® instruments, please refer to the appen-
dix.
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
24
8 Disclaimer
This publication and the information provided therein is for intended use only
and subject to change at any time without prior or public notice. Uster Tech-
nologies will not assume liability for any direct or indirect damage resulting from
unintended use of this publication or the information provided therein. The use
of this information for product specifications in commercial contracts is discour-
aged unless clear reference is made to this publication or parts thereof and clear
numerical specifications and tolerances are provided in the contract. The use of
this information for arbitration purposes is discouraged unless clear reference is
made to this publication or specified parts thereof and clear numerical specifica-
tions and tolerances are provided in legally valid contractual documents pertain-
ing to the characteristics of the goods in question. The use of this information for
performance guarantees relating to textile plants, textile machines, or parts or
accessories thereof is discouraged unless clear reference is made to this publica-
tion or parts thereof and clear numerical specifications, tolerances, and restric-
tive clauses pertaining to other known influences on the specified performance
are provided in the guarantee documents.
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
25
9 Testing Conditions and Sample Sizes
All tests in relation to the USTER® STATISTICS 2007 were carried out under con-
stant climatic conditions. The temperature was 20 °C, the relative humidity 65%.
The following table lists the testing conditions and the sample sizes.
Fiber Testing
26
Yarn Testing
Test method: 1
Tensile FH cN USTER® 10 20
properties RH cN/tex TENSORAPID 4 10 20
CVRH % 10 20
ε
H % 10 20
CVεH % 10 20
WH cNcm 10 20
CVWH % 10 20
Testing speed: 5 m/min
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
27
Parameter Abbrevia- Unit Instrument No. of Tests
tion samples within
HV tensile FH cN USTER® 10 1000
properties RH cN/tex TENSOJET 4 10 1000
CVRH % 10 1000
ε
H % 10 1000
CVεH % 10 1000
WH cNcm 10 1000
CVWH % 10 1000
FHP=0.1 cN 10 1000
ε
HP=0.1 % 10 1000
FHP=0.01 cN 10 10,000
ε
HP=0.01 % 10 10,000
Testing speed: 400 m/min
Testing of Rovings
28
10 Appendix
The pie charts indicating the distribution of sample origins are missing in the
fiber properties section. The reason for that is very simple: The source of each
sample is known to us, of course, but in many cases, the true geographic origin
of the cottons was not. A sample may have been furnished by a German mill,
for instance, but the respective cotton bale may have come from Central Asia or
somewhere else and these details have not always been disclosed to us.
Please note that the data in the USTER® STATISTICS cover several crop years.
The average fiber quality of cottons from a certain growing region changes from
one year to another as a result of the prevalent environmental conditions during
the growing season. With the consideration of more than one crop year, how-
ever, these differences are leveled out.
29
There is still some confusion about the use of calibration cottons. However, since
1998 only HVI Calibration Cotton is available from the US Department of Agricul-
ture, Agricultural Marketing Service (USDA-AMS) in Memphis, Tennessee, USA.
The USDA discontinued the provision of ICC. Using HVI-CC and ICC for calibra-
tion results in different test results which are not comparable with each other
and do not correlate with each other in any way. If the system is calibrated using
HVI-CC, the upper half mean length (UHML), the mean length (ML) and the uni-
formity index (UI) are obtained. Strength results with this calibration are on a
higher level than with ICC calibration cotton. Nowadays, Uster Technologies rec-
ommends to use only HVI-CC for calibration, and all tests within the framework
of the USTER® STATISTICS were conducted using an HVI-CC calibrated system.
The USDA supplies special cottons for Micronaire calibration, since the Micro-
naire range provided by HVI-CC cottons is not nearly large enough. Special cali-
bration tiles are available to calibrate the colorimeter and the grade boxes along
with a dot matrix tile are used for trash meter calibration (USTER® HVI SPEC-
TRUM only dot matrix tile and self-defined cottons). The calibration tiles men-
tioned are part of a USTER® HVI SPECTRUM shipment.
Cotton fiber testing with USTER® HVI systems is a standardized procedure and
is described in detail in ASTM D-4605. Further explanations of the individual
functional elements of the system, the significance of the measurements, and
the proper calibration and operation of the instrument are given in the operating
instructions. Adequate sample conditioning and maintaining constant standard
atmospheric conditions in the laboratory during testing is of extreme importance
because of the hygroscopic nature of cotton fibers. Please refer to section 10.1.3
of this appendix for more information on ambient laboratory conditions for fiber
testing.
30
and the size of neps, trash, and dust particles. The novel features of the AFIS
instrument comprise the assessment of single fiber fineness and maturity dis-
tributions as well as the discriminative detection of seed coat fragments. The
USTER® AFIS has gained international recognition as the most sensible answer
to process control and quality monitoring needs in yarn manufacturing. Some
800 USTER® AFIS units are installed in over 50 countries.
Nep testing with the USTER® AFIS system is a standardized procedure and is
described in detail in ASTM D-5866. Further explanations of the individual func-
tional elements of the system, the significance of the measurements, and the
proper calibration and operation of the instrument are given in the operating
instructions. Adequate sample conditioning and maintaining constant standard
atmospheric conditions in the laboratory during testing is important. Please refer
to section 10.1.3 of this appendix for more information on ambient laboratory
conditions for fiber testing.
31
conditioning time should be at least 48 hours unless the samples are precondi-
tioned, so that the moisture equilibrium is later approached from the dry side.
During conditioning, samples should be arranged in single layers in perforated
trays to allow conditioned air to circulate freely. The moisture content of the sam-
ples to be tested should not differ from that of the cottons used for calibrating
the measuring instrument. Therefore, calibration cottons should be subjected to
the same conditioning procedures or, alternatively, stored permanently inside the
conditioned laboratory. Laboratory conditions should be monitored by appropri-
ate devices that record both short-term fluctuation and long-term drift.
The cotton fiber processing section of the USTER® STATISTICS represents a sta-
tistical analysis of in-process AFIS measurements which have been performed
on a large number of samples drawn at important intermediate processing
stages: Bale, card mat, card sliver, comber sliver, finisher drawing, and roving.
The through-the-mill processing sequences in carded and combed ring spinning
are labeled A...G and A...H, in carded open-end spinning A...F and A...H. They are
identified by a legend. At trash/g and dust/g the values for yarns, measured with
the OI sensor of the USTER® TESTER 4, are indicated as well. Since the samples
came from specific mills, a distribution of the sample sources is provided in the
form of a pie chart. This distribution does not relate to fiber origin, i.e. cotton
growing area, but to the locations of the mills that furnished the samples. The
cotton growing area is unknown.
32
28±∆x neps/g in the combed sliver and is back on the 50% curve. The USTER®
STATISTICS on through-the-mill nep levels can also be used in conjunction with a
USTER® LVI 720 stand-alone nep tester.
Nep testing with the USTER® AFIS system is a standardized procedure and is
described in detail in ASTM D-5866. Further explanations of the individual func-
tional elements of the system, the significance of the measurements, and the
proper calibration and operation of the instrument are given in the operating
instructions. Adequate sample conditioning and maintaining constant standard
atmospheric conditions in the laboratory during testing is important.
33
10.4 Yarn Testing
A new aspect which frequently led to disagreements and uncertainties concerns
different quality requirements in relation to subsequent use of yarns in process-
ing, which are manufactured and traded world wide. Hitherto, no distinction has
been made in the USTER® STATISTICS. This deficiency has been remedied in
the USTER® STATISTICS 2001 edition. Therefore, yarns are shown in different
nomograms according to their subsequent processing purpose, i.e. weaving yarn
or knitting yarn.
As in the USTER® STATISTICS 1997 edition, a distinction has been made between
cotton qualities on bobbins and on packages. Again, reference measurements
of yarn mass variations, hairiness and imperfections on bobbins and on cross-
wound packages are available for 100% carded and combed ring-spun cotton
yarns. Hereinafter, you will find the considerations at that time that led to this
distinction particularly in the cotton segment.
Practical experience has proven time and time again that winding alters the
yarn surface structure. The impact on yarn evenness (CVm) is very limited but
changes in imperfection counts (thin places, thick places, and neps), hairiness
(H), and standard deviation of hairiness (sH) are much more pronounced. Under
normal circumstances, the tensile properties, i.e. tenacity, elongation, and work-
to-break are not affected unless yarns are subjected to excessive winding ten-
sion, which is very rarely the case and certainly not a prudent practice. A clear
statement must be made concerning the role of the winding machine: Changes
in the yarn surface structure due to winding cannot be avoided. Nobody would
honestly expect a yarn to become better after it has been accelerated from zero
to 1200 m/min or more in a few milliseconds while being pulled off the bobbin,
dragged across several deflection bars and eyelets, forced into a traverse motion
at speeds that make it invisible, and finally rolled up into a firm construction called
package or cone. The factors that affect the yarn structure during winding include
the frictional properties of the yarn itself, the bobbin geometry and the bobbin
unwinding behavior, winding speed, winding geometry as well as the number
and design of the yarn/machine contact points. However, much as the bobbin
unwinding behavior today is the limiting factor for winding speed, it is also the
main reason for these changes in yarn structure. Most of the damage occurs at
the moment when the end is detached and removed from the tight assembly of
yarn layers on the bobbin and dragged along the tube at very high speeds.
High-speed, automatic winders have frequently been blamed for causing higher
nep counts but this is not a correct statement. Typical nep-type imperfections,
i.e. short mass defects, can be identified as tight fiber entanglements, clumps of
immature or dead cotton fibers, or seed coat fragments. Naturally, such defects
are not produced by the winding machine. The increase in nep counts after wind-
ing is related to the formation of loose fiber accumulations. These fiber accumu-
lations represent a true mass defect, yet their appearance in the yarn and in the
final fabric is clearly different from that of typical fiber entanglements or seed
coat fragments.
When testing 100% cotton yarns in package form for evenness, imperfections,
and hairiness with the USTER® TESTER, some very fine and delicate yarns will
again respond with marginal structural changes. This is not a result of mechani-
cal stress like in winding but a natural reaction caused by the reversal of the
yarn running direction. Directional influences are omnipresent; they become
apparent in all subsequent processing stages. The evidence of changes in the
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
yarn surface structure due to the winding process or as a result of reversing the
yarn running direction is confined to a few very delicate 100% man-made fiber
yarns, core yarns, and 100% cotton yarns finer than Ne 60 (Nm 100, 10 tex).
We recommend, however, that the USTER® STATISTICS on 100% carded and
combed cotton ring-spun yarns on cross-wound packages be referred to when-
ever mass variation, hairiness, and imperfections of cotton yarns in package form
are of interest. Since the tensile properties are not affected by the phenomena
described above, the USTER® STATISTICS on ring-spun bobbins should be used
for packages as well. The STATISTICS on count variation and the between-sample
34
coefficients of variation of evenness and hairiness are only useful when testing
bobbins. Testing packages of ring-spun yarns always involves the risk of catch-
ing the top end of one bobbin and the bottom end of another (plus the splice in
between), which may distort the measurements.
Incorrect comparisons with the USTER® STATISTICS may also result from test-
ing actively conditioned yarns. Active thermal conditioning is performed at the
very end of the manufacturing process to suppress the twist liveliness or the
yarn torque. This is normally accomplished by treating bobbins or packages with
high-temperature water vapor in a conditioning chamber or in a vacuum environ-
ment with low-temperature saturated steam in the gaseous phase. In any case,
the moisture regain of the fibers may alter their physical properties and affect
capacitive yarn testing. In addition, the moisture is not always homogeneously
distributed within a thermally conditioned bobbin or package. Therefore, changes
in tenacity, elongation, and work-to-break as well as evenness, imperfections,
and defect levels must be expected. The bobbin and package samples tested
within the framework of the USTER® STATISTICS have been cleared of all pack-
ing material upon receipt, preconditioned in a dry atmosphere for several days or
weeks, and conditioned to moisture equilibrium under constant standard atmo-
spheric conditions. By doing so, any adverse effects on testing caused by ther-
mal conditioning are completely eliminated. Please refer to section 10.4.10 of
this appendix for more information on proper sample conditioning and ambient
laboratory conditions for yarn testing.
The influence of the raw material on the quality of spun yarns has been exten-
sively covered on the first pages of these USTER® STATISTICS. It is a true fact of
life that nobody can spin a world-class yarn from coarse wool or short and weak
cotton fibers even if the latest and best machinery is employed. The quality sta-
tus achieved by a spinner always represents the compound effect of the skills
of the work force and the management, the performance of the machines, the
quality of the raw material, and the know-how in processing technology.
ment has become firmly established in the industry. The hairiness module of
the USTER® TESTER 4 consists of an electro-optical sensor which converts the
scattered light reflections of the peripheral fibers into a corresponding electri-
cal signal while the solid yarn body is eclipsed. The hairiness measurement is
performed simultaneously with the measurement of yarn evenness and imper-
fections. Yarn hairiness is expressed in the form of the hairiness value H, which
is an indirect measure for the number and the cumulative length of all fibers
protruding from the yarn surface. This value, along with the within-sample stan-
dard deviation of hairiness (sH) and the between-sample coefficient of variation
of hairiness (CVHb), is covered by the USTER® STATISTICS.
36
High or low hairiness, even when going to the extremes, is not necessarily a
quality deficiency. The yarn hairiness requirements are strictly governed by the
end use. Yarns with higher hairiness are usually produced for end uses in knitting,
such as underwear, knitted outerwear, and sportswear. Most weaving applica-
tions call for a smooth yarn surface, especially with warp yarns. A typical excep-
tion are pile yarns for terry fabrics, which often exhibit a high hairiness. Greater
hairiness can also improve the filling insertion behavior (air friendliness) of certain
yarns processed on high-speed air-jet weaving machines.
One aspect that is not reflected in the USTER® STATISTICS on yarn hairiness
is the occurrence of periodic hairiness defects. While modern yarn monitoring
systems detect mass periodicities with a high degree of accuracy and reliability,
there is no on-line monitoring system for hairiness. Consequently, knowledge of
the average hairiness of a yarn does not preclude the existence of periodic hairi-
ness defects, which adversely affect fabric appearance. In some cases, a high
standard deviation of hairiness is at least an indication of the presence of hairi-
ness periodicities.
embedded neps are barely perceptible for the human eye. In order to balance the
typical visual appearance of rotor-spun yarns with the imperfection counts of the
USTER® TESTER, the +280% sensitivity setting for neps has become a common
convention for the testing of rotor-spun yarns. In addition to the 280% neps, nep
class +200% has been included for the first time as an additional nomogram for
OE rotor-spun yarns and airjet yarns.
A USTER® TESTER 4 has been used for the testing of all yarn samples that have
been procured for the USTER® STATISTICS 2007. However, the STATISTICS on
yarn imperfections are compatible with the data provided by the preceding product
37
generations, i.e. USTER® TESTER 1, USTER® TESTER 2, and USTER® TESTER 3.
Proper calibration of the instrument is a necessary prerequisite to make cor-
rect comparisons between the actual USTER® TESTER measurements and
the USTER® STATISTICS on yarn imperfections. The calibration of a USTER®
TESTER should be left to authorized Uster Technologies service personnel. Please
contact the nearest Uster Technologies service station if unexpected changes or
long-term drift should occur. TESTEX AG in Zurich, Switzerland, conducts yarn
quality round tests on an international basis. Participation in such a program is
highly recommended for closely monitoring the performance of the service per-
sonnel and of the instrument, i.e. the consistency of the measurements and the
compatibility with other laboratories. This, of course, includes compatibility with
the USTER® STATISTICS as well.
Further explanations of the individual functional elements of the imperfection
counter of the USTER® TESTER, the significance of the measurements, and
the proper calibration and operation of the instrument are given in the operat-
ing instructions and in the application handbook on evenness testing. Adequate
sample conditioning and maintaining constant standard atmospheric conditions in
the laboratory during testing is important. Please refer to section 10.4.10 of this
appendix for more information on ambient laboratory conditions for yarn testing.
Therefore, Uster Technologies decided some years ago to develop two more
sensors in addition to the well-known sensors used to determine mass variation
and the sensors used to analyze hairiness:
• Optical sensor to measure yarn diameter, cross-sectional shape of yarns, den-
sity and surface structure.
• Optical sensor to determine any remaining yarn trash and yarn dust.
The optical sensor to measure the yarn diameter uses two light sources arranged
at a 90 degree angle to examine the yarn. This arrangement guarantees a high
stability of the measurement, and at the same time it is possible to measure the
roundness of the yarns, since the roundness of yarns also influences the appear-
ance of textile fabrics.
the trash and dust content during the entire spinning process. Trash and dust
contained in the yarn is of particular significance for processing yarns on weaving
looms and knitting machines. The two quality characteristics, trash and dust in
yarns, have also been included in the USTER® STATISTICS 2007.
38
10.4.7 Twist Testing
The twist of a yarn can be described by the twist per unit length (per meter or
per inch) and by the twist multiplier.
For the twist character of a yarn only the twist multiplier is decisive, as it
describes the angle of the twist in the yarn. A fine yarn needs more twist than
a coarse yarn in order to have the same twist character. Therefore, the twist of
a yarn is usually given as the coefficient of twist, also called twist multiplier in
order to be able to compare different yarn counts.
The twist measuring method used is the untwist-retwist method. This method is
based on the premise that the contraction of a specified length of singles yarns is
the same for any amount of twist. A 50-cm length is untwisted under pretension,
and then is retwisted in the same direction. The retwisting is continued until the
contracted length is the same as the original specimen length. The total twist
is the sum of the untwisted and retwisted turns. Since the specimen length is
0.5 m, the number of rotations with the untwist-retwist method is equivalent to
the yarn twist per meter.
The measurement of the twist for the USTER® STATISTICS is done according to
the standard ISO 17202:2002.
The terminology used for describing the tensile properties may raise some ques-
tions. In the USTER® STATISTICS, we have applied the same terminology that is
used in the international standards on textile testing. However, these standard-
ized denominations are not always clear. The following must be carefully consid-
ered: The breaking tenacity is calculated from the peak force which occurs any-
where between the beginning of the test and the final rupture of the specimen.
The peak force or maximum force is not identical with the force measured at the
very moment of rupture (force at rupture). The breaking elongation is calculated
from the clamp displacement at the point of peak force. The elongation at peak
force is not identical with the elongation at the very moment of rupture (elonga-
tion at rupture). The work-to-break is defined as the area below the stress/strain
curve drawn to the point of peak force and the corresponding elongation at peak
force. The work at the point of peak force is not identical with the work at the
very moment of rupture (work-to-rupture). In the USTER® STATISTICS on tensile
properties, all parameters are derived from the true peak force measurement.
However, as long as the stress/strain curve of a yarn exhibits a linear or progres-
sive characteristic, these differences are irrelevant because the maximum force
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
is very much the same as the force at the point of rupture. This is the case, for
instance, with 100% cotton yarns. But: When the stress/strain curve shows a
degressive characteristic, the peak force may be higher than the force at rupture
and the elongation at peak force is lower than the elongation at rupture. This is the
case with worsted yarns or yarns which are spun from certain man-made fibers.
When comparing data on tensile yarn properties with the USTER® STATISTICS,
the true meaning of these measurements must be known. Some number which
happens to be declared as yarn strength, for instance, must not necessarily be
compatible with the USTER® STATISTICS. The application handbook on tensile
39
testing with the USTER® TENSORAPID is highly recommended to those who
may wish to obtain further information on these topics.
The USTER® TENSORAPID applies the CRE principle of tensile testing. The term
CRE serves as an abbreviation for ‹constant rate of extension›. CRE describes
the simple fact that the moving clamp is displaced at a constant velocity. As a
result, the specimen between the stationary and the moving clamp is extended
by a constant distance per unit of time and the force required to do so is mea-
sured. The following details are of utmost importance in ensuring compatibility
between the data presented in the USTER® STATISTICS and the data on tensile
properties obtained in practice: To be compatible, a measurement must be per-
formed according to the CRE principle. The velocity of the moving clamp, also
referred to as the testing speed, must be exactly 5 m/min. The gauge length, i.e.
the length of the specimen or the distance between the stationary and the mov-
ing clamp should be 500 mm and a pretension of 0.5 cN/tex must be applied.
Testing conditions that deviate from this description will most certainly result in
different measurement values.
CRE single-end testing at 5 m/min is the most widely accepted practice in the
international textile industry and it has therefore been chosen as the testing
mode for the USTER® STATISTICS on tensile properties. However, other meth-
ods are still being applied but their significance is deteriorating rapidly. These
methods include CRE single-end testing with 20 s time-to-break. Textile materials
exhibit a partially viscoelastic behavior and their tensile properties change nota-
bly as a function of the time during which mechanical forces and deformations
are acting upon a fiber, yarn, or fabric. Therefore, the tensile properties of yarns
also change with the testing speed. The difference between a time-to-break of
20 s and the 0.2…0.4 s required to break a specimen made of fiber-spun yarns
at 5 m/min causes significant differences between the respective measurement
values. Similar discrepancies may occur when comparing CRL (constant rate
of load) single-end measurements from the USTER® DYNAMAT with the CRE
5 m/min TENSORAPID data provided in the USTER® STATISTICS. In general,
there are two fundamental criteria which affect the compatibility between differ-
ent measurements of tensile yarn properties: Criterion number one is the test-
ing conditions, i.e. the testing principle (CRE, CRL), testing speed, gauge length,
and pretensioning. The second criterion, which also affects the magnitude of the
differences, relates to the specific stress/strain characteristic of the yarn itself,
which is determined by the fibrous materials, the blend ratio, and the yarn con-
struction. A detailed appraisal of the various tensile testing systems and the rea-
sons for the differences between the measurements is provided in the applica-
tion handbook on tensile testing with the USTER® TENSORAPID.
in ISO 2062. However: While the basic procedures of automatic CRE single-end
tensile testing are outlined in all applicable national and international standards,
the testing speed of 5 m/min – much to our regret – has not yet been consid-
ered. In spite of this shortcoming, it is definitely the preferred mode of tensile
testing from a global point of view.
40
application handbook on tensile testing. Adequate sample conditioning and main-
taining constant standard atmospheric conditions in the laboratory during testing
is important. Please refer to section 10.4.10 of this appendix for more informa-
tion on ambient laboratory conditions for yarn testing.
The nomograms on the percentile values of breaking force (FP=0.1) and break-
ing elongation (εP=0.1) relate to the occurrence of weak places in spun yarns.
The percentile value 0.1% of the breaking force (FP=0.1) signifies that 0.1% of all
measurements exhibit a breaking force that is equal to or lower than the specified
value. For the USTER® STATISTICS, ten samples of each lot have been selected
and 1,000 individual tensile tests have been performed on each bobbin or pack-
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
age. This is a total of 10,000 measurements per lot. The percentile value 0.1% of
the breaking force indicates that ten measurements (0.1% of 10,000 breaks) lie
below that value. An example:
The percentile value 0.1% of the breaking force of an Ne 20 (Nm 34, 29.5 tex),
100% carded cotton ring-spun yarn was measured at FP=0.1 = 400 cN, which
can be converted into RP=0.1 = 13.6 cN/tex. Consequently, 0.1% of all measure-
ments represent weak places with a breaking force of less than 400 cN or a
breaking tenacity of less than 13.6 cN/tex. If ten bobbins have been tested, each
with 1,000 breaks, this equates to a total of ten such weak places. The percentile
41
value 0.1% of the breaking force FP=0.1 = 400 cN corresponds to the 50th percen-
tile of the USTER® STATISTICS.
In this context, it is very important to keep in mind that a comparison with the
USTER® STATISTICS on weak places is only permissible if the total number of
breaks performed on a sample lot is exactly 10,000. Percentile values of both
the breaking force and the breaking elongation that have been determined with
fewer or more than 10,000 breaks cannot be compared with the data provided in
the USTER® STATISTICS.
to expose the entire bobbin or package surface to the conditioned air, and
arranged in such a fashion that ample space is left between the samples to allow
conditioned air to circulate freely. Laboratory conditions should be monitored by
appropriate devices that record both short-term fluctuation and long-term drift.
ISO 139, EN 20 139, DIN 53 802: Standard atmosphere for conditioning and
testing
42
10.5 Useful Conversions
English Unit Abbreviation Metric Unit Metric Unit Abbreviation English Unit
(US) (US)
Length Length
inch in 2.54 cm centimeter cm 0.3937 in
foot (=12 in) ft 30.48 cm meter m 3.28 ft
yard (=3 ft) yd 0.9144 m meter m 1.0936 yd
mile mile 1609.344 m kilometer km 0.6241 mile
Area Area
square inch in2 6.4516 cm2 square centimeter cm2 0.155 in2
square foot ft2 929.030 cm2 square meter m 10.76 ft2
2
Volume Volume
cubic inch in3 16.3871 cm3 cubic centimeter cm3 0.061 in3
cubic foot ft3 0.0283 m3 cubic meter m3 35.288 ft3
cubic yard yd3 0.7646 m3 cubic meter m3 1.308 yd3
fluid ounce fl oz 28.4 ml milliliter ml 0.0352 fl oz
pint pt 0.473 l liter l 2.11 pt
gallon gal 3.79 l liter l 0.264 gal
Mass Mass
grain gr 0.0648 g gram g 15.432 gr
ounce oz 28.3495 g gram g 0.0353 oz
pound lb 0.4536 kg kilogram kg 2.205 lb
Force Force
gram-force gf 0.9807 cN centi-Newton cN 1.02 gf
pound-force lbf 4.4483 N Newton N 0.2248 lbf
Pressure Pressure
pound-force/in2 p.s.i. 6894.76 Pa bar (=105 Pa) bar 14.5 p.s.i.
pound-force/ft2 p.s.f. 47.8803 Pa Pascal (N/m2) Pa 0.0209 p.s.f.
Tenacity Tenacity
gram-force/den gf/den 8.838 cN/tex centi-Newton/tex cN/tex 0.113 gf/den
gram-force/tex gf/tex 0.9807 cN/tex centi-Newton/tex cN/tex 1.02 gf/tex
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
43
10.5.2 Count Conversions
Nm = metric count NeC = cotton count NeW = worsted count NeL = linen count
medium to long
1 1 / 8 36 1.13 28.6
1 5 / 32 37 1.16 29.4
Fahrenheit °F = 1.8 · (°C+32)
1 3 / 16 38 1.19 30.2
1 7 / 32 39 1.22 31.0 Centigrade °C = 0.5556 · (°F–32)
1 1 / 4 40 1.25 31.8
long
1 9 / 32 41 1.28 32.5
1 5 / 16 42 1.31 33.3
1 11 / 32 43 1.34 34.1
1 3 / 8 44 1.38 34.9
1 13 / 32 45 1.41 35.7
extra long
1 7 / 16 46 1.44 36.5
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG
1 15 / 32 47 1.47 37.3
1 1 / 2 48 1.50 38.1
1 17 / 32 49 1.53 38.9
1 9 / 16 50 1.56 39.7
1 19 / 32 51 1.59 40.5
1 5 / 8 52 1.63 41.3
44
USTER® STATISTICS for Yarns Made Out
of Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers
Introduction
The most recent edition of the USTER® STATISTICS was published in 2007. This
edition was the most substantial compilation of benchmarks for the textile in-
dustry in the history of the USTER® STATISTICS which goes back more than 50
years. Additional yarn parameters, the relationship between fiber and yarn data
as well as the new fiber parameters were presented in the USTER® STATISTICS
2007.
We have come to realise in recent years that the chapters of the USTER®
STATISTICS for man-made cellulosic fibers would have to be radically revised
in view of our focus to continuously adjust the USTER® STATISTICS to the re-
quirements of the textile industry. This conclusion can be attributed to the rapid
developments made in the cellulose production on the one hand, and to the di-
versification of cellulose fibers in various products with different characteristics
on the other hand.
Fig. 1 Global production, fibers and filament yarns, a total of 74 million tons
[The International Rayon & Synthetic Fibers Committee, www.cirfs.org]
The growth seen in man-made cellulose fibers in recent years is particularly im-
pressive. Production of these fibers grew by 9% from 2005 to 2007, which can
be attributed primarily to the increase in staple fibers.
1'000 tons
© Copyright 2009 Uster Technologies AG
Fig. 2 Cellulosic Fiber Production (Staple) [Oerlikon Textile, The Fiber Year 2007/2008]
Uster Technologies has decided to break down the different product groups as
a result of the economic developments in man-made cellulose fibers and their
diversification. The present USTER® STATISTICS for man-made cellulosic fibers
have been divided into the following chapters:
This division reflects the fact that the different cellulosic materials have varying
characteristics and therefore, have to be treated separately.
The samples were requested specially for the USTER® STATISTICS and were col-
lected globally. They were then tested in the technology centers in Uster, Swit-
zerland, and in Suzhou, China. The distribution of the origin of the samples is
illustrated in the following graph:
Africa
4%
Asia Pacific Near & Middle East
42% 15%
Fig. 3 Distribution of sample origin [data base USTER® STATISTICS 2007 Version 2.0]
The USTER® STATISTICS 2007 Version 2.0 replaces all chapters of the USTER®
STATISTICS 2007 Version 1.0 where the raw material is either viscose or vis-
cose blends. These chapters become void and will be replaced by the USTER®
STATISTICS 2007 Version 2.0.
We would like to take the opportunity to thank all customers for having made
available their yarns which enabled us to compile the benchmarks at hand.
We would also like to extend our thanks to our colleagues from Marketing
and Textile Technology who also contributed to the success of the USTER®
STATISTICS 2007 Version 2.0.
© Copyright 2009 Uster Technologies AG
Fiber to Yarn
Introduction
For the USTER® STATISTICS 2007 samples of fibers and yarns were collect-
ed throughout the world. Therefore, there is raw data available in our USTER®
STATISTICS data base which allows a correlation between the fiber characteris-
tics and the respective yarn count.
The following graphics represent the fiber characteristics for a defined yarn count.
The relationships were calculated for carded and combed cotton yarns.
The reader will find the following relationships for ring-spun yarns:
• What kind of fiber length (roving) is used for what kind of yarn count?
• What is the amount of short fibers (roving) for what kind of yarn count?
• What is the fiber fineness (roving) for what kind of yarn count?
• What is the amount of neps in the roving for what kind of yarn count?
• What is the amount of dust and trash found in the roving for what kind of yarn
count?
• What is the amount of Visible Foreign Matter found in the roving for what kind
of yarn count?
In addition, the reader can also find relationships between the fiber characteris-
tics of slivers produced by the finisher drawframe and the open end yarn count.
There are the same relationships as mentioned above, but instead of fibers from
the rovings the samples were extracted from the finisher drawframe.
© Copyright 2006 Uster Technologies AG