Instructions for installing GM alternator on GL1200

Donald (Poorboy)Pigott
Start by removing both fairing lowers, left horn, radiator, fan assembly & air d
uct on left side.
You will have to cut the brace out that the horn bracket is welded to. Grind the
upper end flush with the flat part of the bracket, as there is a reinforcement
plate to go there (pic 027). I used a piece of ¼ X 1 ¼ flat stock to make the reinfo
rcement plate. It has to be tapered to fit. Drill 2 holes to match up with the b
olts that hold the fairing to the bracket. Install plate and just snug bolts, as
you will be taking it back off shortly.
Remove the left engine to frame bolt that is just above the timing belt cover, i
nboard of the intake manifold. This is where the lower alternator bracket will f
asten. I used a piece of 1/8 X 1X1 angle iron for this. It will be about 3 ¼ inche
s long. Drill a 13/32 hole 7/16 from one end & 5/8 from the bottom then drill a
3/8 hole 2 5/8 from that one, in same side. Install the bracket using the engine
to frame bolt. Trial fit the alternator (you will have to trim the alt. some) u
sing a 3/8 X 3 bolt using flat washers to space it out to just clears the intake
& so the belt will clear the timing belt cover. You will have to put the left c
over back on for this.
With the alternator roughly in place it is time to install the crank pulley. Tak
e the left cover back off and remove the crank bolt. You will need a longer bolt
(about 1 inch longer). Put the crank pulley on using the longer bolt and flat w
ashers as spacers, add or subtract washers so the belt is in line with the alter
nator and clearing the timing cover. You may have to move the alternator in or o
ut a little. When you have the two lined up measure the thickness of the washers
and make a spacer to replace them. The hole in the crank pulley I used was too
big so I made a bushing and spacer together. Install the crank bolt with Locktig
ht.
Next you will cut the timing covers to fit around the new crank pulley. Just cut
it enough to fit around the pulley (go slow, might as well polish them at this
time). Put covers back on.
Put the belt on and pull it tight. Pull the alternator up against the reinforcem
ent plate you made earlier. Make the adjustment bracket and tack in place (pic 2
3), remove and finish weld (pic 032). Paint & reinstall. You will have to trim t
he front screw bracket that holds the fairing lower.
The bottom of the radiator needs to be moved forward about 5/8 of an inch. I mad
e 2 spacers that screwed onto the original mounting studs (pics 36 & 39). The mo
unting bracket for the fairing lowers now go behind the radiator. The bottom hos
e will reach the engine, just loosen both clamps and wiggle it around a bit. The
fan mount will have to be altered some. You will have to remove the left lower
leg from the fan mount(pic1). Bend both lower leg mounts toward the radiator cor
e(pic3). I ground a little off of the lower fan shroud to get the fan blade as c
lose the radiator core as possible. This is done to lessen the amount the radiat
or will have to be moved forward. Both fairing lowers will have to be trimmed so
me around the lower part of the radiator. The left lower will have to be fitted
around the alternator. I used a torch to heat the backside and while still hot p
ut it in place and mold it around the alternator (pic 17). Be careful while heat
ing as not to get it too hot and bubble the paint or melt the plastic. A heat gu
n would be better. There is a heat shield that will have to be trimmed to clear
the alternator also.
To wire it is very simple. Run a piece of 8 gauge wire from the output terminal
of the alternator to the positive battery post. (you can also run it to the batt
ery side of the starter relay) Run a piece of 14 gauge wire from a switched 12 v
olt source to the exciter terminal on the alternator. That s it!!!!!!!

Please address any questions to Donald Pigott at poorboy57@juno.com.