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DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS

®
http://www.woodonline.com

porch or patio

candle
lanterns

Discover a clever method

for cutting half-lap joints safely and
accurately with this fun and practical
project. You can mix and match
three heights to suit your style.

DP-00266 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003 Page 1 of 7

 Note: Buy glass before you make
the lanterns so you can size the
base rabbet. (We used ¤" cord fi"
glass.) To build the three different
size lanterns, have your glass deal-
fi" #8 x 1fi" brass F.H. wood screw
er cut four 3¨"-wide pieces each ›"
to 3‡", 4‡", and 5‡" long.
¸" hole,
countersunk
Base
Make a jig first, then the stiles fi" dado
and rails fi" rabbet
¤" deep ¤" deep
1 Make the half-lap jig shown on
Drawing 1 to cut the ends of the fi" dado ¤"
stiles (A) and rails (B). ‹" deep
2 Resaw and plane stock to ‹" 8fi"
thick for the stiles and rails. The 3"
stock thickness must equal the
depth of the center dado in the half-
lap jig for accurate joints. Rip the ‡" MDF
7⁄64"
holes
stock into fi"-wide strips. (You’ll or plywood
need about 21 feet of ‹×fi" stock ‡" deep
for the three lanterns shown.)
3 Crosscut the stiles (A) and rails Handle
(B) to the lengths listed in the 8fi"
Materials List.
2"

1 HALF-LAP JIG

AME:148Lanterns1.eps
1-03
J.
Keep the end of the stile or rail pressed against the saw fence when you cut the half laps.

Page 2 of 7
 4 Install a fi" dado blade in your
saw, and add an auxiliary fence. A STILES
Locate the fence next to the dado B RAILS fi"
set. Now, lay a stile (A) into the
dado in the half-lap jig. Place the ‹"
jig facedown on the saw table 4‹"
with the rabbeted edge against the Large
auxiliary fence, trapping the stile
fi" 6›"
against the table. Push the stile
against the fence. Cut a half lap
on one end of each stile, and both Medium
ends of each rail, where shown 5›"
on Drawing 2 and as shown in
Photo A. Reset the fence, rotate fi" laps ¤" deep Small
the jig, and cut the half laps on the
lower end of each stile.
4›"

Assemble the sides 2 STILES AND RAILS

1 Referring to Drawing 3, glue
and assemble the four sides for
each lantern, keeping each side ›"
square. ‹"
2 Cut a ¤" groove ¤" deep in
each side assembly, where shown
on Drawing 3.
3 Bevel both edges of each side to
B
45°. (We beveled the edges with a
router table and 45° chamfer bit.)

Make the bases

1 Cut the bases (C) to size. Cut
the rabbets, where shown on
Drawings 3 and 3a. Make the
width of the rabbets ‰" plus the
thickness of the glass.
2 Drill four ‹" drainage holes
in each base, where shown on
Drawing 3a.

Glue up the lanterns, and make

the trim
1 Lay four assembled lantern
sides side-by-side on the work-
bench with the grooved and
mitered faces down. Put strips of
masking tape across them at the
top and the bottom. Carefully flip
NAME:148Lanterns2.eps
the taped assemblies over.
1-03 2 Apply glue to the sides’ bev-
J. eled edges. Place the tongue of
the base (C) into the groove in
one side (don’t glue) and wrap
the other sides around the base, Wrap the sides around the base (C) and secure with strips of masking tape.
as shown in Photo B. Similarly Glue the miters, but don’t glue the base into the grooves.
assemble the other two lanterns.

Page 3 of 7
 5¤"
‹" round-over D D
D 45° miters D

Cord
glass 3¨"
24-gauge 3‡" for small lantern
copper iris 4‡" for medium lantern
silhouette 5‡" for large lantern

45° miters
¤" groove
¤" deep
B

A ˇ" rabbet
fi" ‹" deep
A ¤"
C fi"
B 4‹"
fi" 4" 4"
›"

3a 4"
3 EXPLODED VIEW BASE
DETAIL C

ˇ" rabbet
‹" deep ‹" drain holes 4"

nterns3.eps fl"
fl"
ˇ"

Page 4 of 7
3 Cut three fi×1×24" pieces of
4 TOP TRIM
stock for the top trim (D). Rout
a ‹" round-over on one edge of STEP 1
each piece, as shown in Step 1 of Fence
Drawing 4.
4 Rabbet the stock with your
tablesaw, as shown in Step 2. 1"
5 Miter-cut the trim pieces (D)
to length. Install the glass in the
lantern, and dry-fit the trim pieces. fi" D
The trim’s ¤" lip fits inside the
glass. Glue and clamp the top trim ¤"
frame together.
6 Cut out the copper iris motifs,
using the patterns on page 7 , and
the instructions on pages 6 and 7. ‹" round-over bit
Finish the parts, and install the
glass
1 Sand all the parts. Apply a clear,
exterior finish. STEP 2
2 Slide the glass into the base Fence
grooves, smooth side out. Epoxy a
¤" ›"
top trim assembly in place.
3 Apply a dab of quick-set epoxy
to the back of each iris cutout.
Now, position the iris cutouts on D
opposite corners of the lantern.
4 Set a votive candle at the base’s
center. A long fireplace match or a
butane fire lighter makes lighting
the wick easy. ¿ Tablesaw
‹" dado blade
Produced by Marlen Kemmet
Project design: Kevin Boyle
Graphic Design: C. L. Gatzke
Illustrations: Mike Mittermeier; Lorna Johnson
Photographs: Marty Baldwin
Materials List
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003 FINISHED SIZE
Part T W L Matl. Qty.
1 1
A small lantern stiles ⁄ 4" ⁄2" 43⁄8" M 8
1 3
The purchase of these plans does not transfer A* medium lantern stiles ⁄4" ⁄2" 5 ⁄8" M 8
any copyright or other ownership interest in the 1 1
plans, the design, or the finished project to the
A* large lantern stiles ⁄ 4" ⁄2" 63⁄8" M 8
1 1
buyer. Buyer may neither reproduce the plans B* rails ⁄ 4" ⁄2" 41⁄4" M 24
for sale nor offer for sale any copies of the 3
finished project. C bases ⁄ 8" 4" 4" M 3
1
D* top trim ⁄ 2" 1" 51⁄8" M 12
*Parts initially cut oversize. See instructions.
Material key: M–mahogany.
Supplies: #8×1fi" brass flathead wood screws; cord glass,
four pieces each 3¨×3‡", 3¨×4‡", 3¨×5‡"; quick-set
epoxy; 24-gauge×4×10" copper.
Bits and blades: Stack dado set, ‹" round-over and 45°
chamfer router bits.

Page 5 of 7
 Create
copper
motifs
Here’s an easy way to “metal”
with a woodworking project
and add to its styling.

T
ake a minute to see how the iris accents at right greatly enhance the
appeal of the candle lantern. As you’ll soon discover, there’s no
mystery to making them. For materials, you will need 24-gauge sheet
copper, available at home centers, or hardware, crafts, and hobby stores.
You’ll also need a paper pattern (to be found on page 7), spray adhesive, ¤"
hardboard scrap, and the simple three-step process described below.

Cut the pattern

1 Rough-cut three pieces of ¤" hardboard and two

pieces of sheet copper to slightly larger than the paper
pattern you wish to duplicate in copper. Using spray
adhesive, make a sandwich blank, bonding together the
five pieces, placing the copper where shown in the photo.
Adhere the pattern to the sandwich top. Now, drill any
needed blade start holes through the pattern for inside Sand the burrs
cuts, and scrollsaw the pattern to shape using a no. 2
blade (20 teeth per inch) at high speed.
Note: If you need only one motif, go with two pieces of
2andCarefully pry apart the scrollsawn sandwich, wipe off
the adhesive from the copper motif with paint thinner,
rinse with water. Next, place the motif on a flat sur-
hardboard and one piece of copper. For quality control, face, and, with a sanding block and 220-grit sandpaper,
avoid scrollsawing more than two pieces of copper in this sand the copper surface, removing any burrs along the
manner at the same time. edges of the piece.
Page 6 of 7
 Apply the heat

3torchPlace a piece of scrap copper

on scrapwood. Using a propane
on a low setting, apply heat
to the copper, keeping the nozzle
about three inches from the surface.
Move the flame back and forth to
avoid scorching. What you want
is a pinkish orange coloration like
that in the motifs at the top of page
6. Once you feel confident with the
process, try flaming your motif, as
seen left.¿

FULL-SIZE IRIS PATTERNS

SMALL LANTERN MEDIUM LANTERN LARGE LANTERN

FULL-SIZE PATTERNS FOR THREE DIFFERENT SIZE LANTERNS

Page 7 of 7
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