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Abstract
Accurate exposure information for cosmetic products and ingredients is needed in order to conduct safety assessments. Essential
information includes both the amount of cosmetic product applied, and the frequency of use. To obtain current data, a study to
assess consumer use practices was undertaken. The study included three widely used cosmetic product types: lipstick, body lotion,
and face cream. Three hundred and sixty women, ages 19–65 years, who regularly use the products of interest, were recruited at ten
different geographical locations within the US. The number of recruits was chosen to ensure a minimum of 300 completes per prod-
uct type. Subjects were provided with prototype test products, and kept diaries and recorded detailed daily usage information over a
two week period. Products were weighed at the start and completion of the study in order to determine the total amount of product
used. Statistical analysis of the data was conducted to derive summary distribution of use patterns. The mean and median usage per
application, respectively, for the three products was: face cream, 1.22 g and 0.84 g; lipstick, 10 mg and 5 mg; and body lotion, 4.42 g
and 3.45 g. The mean and median usage per day for the three products was: face cream, 2.05 g and 1.53 g; lipstick, 24 mg and 13 mg;
and body lotion, 8.70 g and 7.63 g. The mean number of applications per day for face cream and lipstick was 1.77 and 2.35, respec-
tively. For body lotion, the mean number of applications per day was dependent on body area, and was 2.12, 1.52, 1.11, 0.95, 0.43,
0.26, and 0.40 for hands, arms, legs, feet, neck and throat, back, and other body areas, respectively. The effect of product preference
on use practices was also investigated. This study provides current cosmetic exposure information for commonly used products
which will be useful for risk assessment purposes.
2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
*
Corresponding author. Tel.: +1 202 331 1770; fax: +1 202 331 1969.
E-mail address: loretzl@ctfa.org (L.J. Loretz).
1
Ortho McNeil Pharmaceutical, Raritan, NJ 08869, USA.
2
Merck & Co., Inc., Whitehouse Station, NJ 08889, USA.
0278-6915/$ - see front matter 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
doi:10.1016/j.fct.2004.09.016
280 L.J. Loretz et al. / Food and Chemical Toxicology 43 (2005) 279–291
Table 1
Listing of ingredients
Face cream: Water, cyclopentasiloxane, glycerin, mineral oil, stearic acid, myristyl myristate, vegetable oil, octyl methoxycinnamate, beeswax,
glyceryl stearate, octyl palmitate, PEG-100 stearate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, soybean protein, sesame oil, C13-14 isoparaffin, cetyl
alcohol, stearyl alcohol, fragrance, diazolidinyl urea, methylparaben, acrylates copolymer, tocopheryl acetate, pea extract, laureth-7, butylparaben,
disodium EDTA, chlorphenesin, sodium dehydroacetate
Body lotion: Purified water, glycerin, emulsifying wax NF, octyl isononanoate, dimethicone, propylene glycol isoceteth-3 acetate, cyclomethicone,
stearic acid, aloe extract, matricaria extract, tocopheryl acetate, dimethicone copolyol, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, cetearyl alcohol,
sodium cetearyl alcohol, sodium sulfate, hydrogenated lanolin, glyceryl laurate, tetrasodium EDTA, triethanolamine, BHT, dipropylene glycol,
propylene glycol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, diazolidinyl urea, benzalkonium chloride, fragrance
Lipstick: Castor (Ricinus communis) oil, cetyl acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, candelilla (Euphorbia cerifera) wax, sterol esters, octyl palmitate,
PVP/hexadecene copolymer, lanolin wax, ozokerite, PEG-4 diheptanoate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, beeswax, carnauba (Copernica cerifera) wax,
phenyl trimethicone, acetylated lanolin alcohol, Di-C12-15 alkyl fumarate, octyl methoxycinnamate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, acrylates copolymer,
jojoba (Buxus chinensis) oil, organopolysiloxane, diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate, isopropyl isostearate, fragrance, polyoxymethyleneurea, BHT,
tocopheryl acetate, silica
May contain: barium sulfate, mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxides, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, Carmine, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 6
Barium Lake, FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Yellow No. 5
Aluminum Lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake, Manganese Violet, Tin Oxide, D&C Red No. 33 Aluminum Lake
arms, feet, legs, face, neck/throat, back, torso, other). the US. A larger proportion of the study subjects be-
For all products, subjects were asked where they spent longed to the oldest age group (60–65 years) as com-
most of their time during that day, in order to encourage pared to the US female population aged 18–65 years.
daily diary entries. However, when that proportion was compared to the
At the end of the two week period, subjects were proportion of the female US population that is 60 years
asked to compare their regular product usage with that or older, no statistically significant difference [Chi-
of the test product in terms of frequency of use (more square test (Colton, 1974) with two-degrees of freedom 3
often, as often, less often) and product rating (better, and a 5% significance level] was observed. The range of
same, worse). Subjects were also given free text space age distributions for study subjects using the three prod-
to enter comments about the product. ucts is presented in Table 2; distributions for subjects
using each product type were comparable.
2.4. Data collection, data entry, and data checking The geographical distribution of the study population
was compared to the distribution of the US female pop-
Respondents returned the test products and the com- ulation. The ten cities were grouped into four regions
pleted diaries after two weeks of usage. The diaries were according to the US Census (Northeast, South, Mid-
reviewed and checked to ensure they were filled out west, and West). A statistically significant difference is
accurately and completely. Diaries that were not filled observed between the two distributions, with the North-
out correctly or completely were deleted when appropri- east and South regions underrepresented in the study,
ate. For example, respondents that only completed the and the Midwest and West overrepresented (Chi-square
diary for a few days, or those who did not answer the test with three degrees of freedom 4 and a 5% signifi-
comparison questions at the end were eliminated. cance level). However, this difference is not likely to af-
The respondentsÕ data were then entered and linked to fect the representativeness of the study since there were
the pre- and post-weight data files. no significant differences between the women in the four
regions regarding the use or rating of the products (dis-
cussed below). The distribution was comparable for sub-
3. Results jects using each of the three product types. Table 3
shows the range of distributions for study subjects using
3.1. Completion rate the three products.
The three age groups were compared with respect to
Of the 360 subjects recruited per product, 86.4%, their rating of the test product. For all products, at least
83.3%, and 85.6% completed the study and returned 50% of respondents in all age groups reported liking the
valid diaries for lipstick, body lotion and face cream,
respectively.
3
3.2. Characteristics of the study population and Chi-square test comparing the number of participants in each age
association with use patterns group to the numbers that would be expected if the age distribution in
the Census applied to the survey participants.
4
Chi-square test comparing the number of participants in each
The age distribution of the study population was region to the numbers that would be expected if the regional
compared with that of the adult female population in distribution in the Census applied to the survey participants.
282 L.J. Loretz et al. / Food and Chemical Toxicology 43 (2005) 279–291
Table 2
Age distribution of the study population
Age distribution (years) Survey Census (numbers in thousands)
Women 18–65 years All adult women
Numbera Percent Number Percent Number Percent
18–39 111–118 36–38 39,014 47 39,014 38
40–59 121–133 40–43 37,619 46 37,619 37
60–65 65–68 22 5658 7 26,039b 25
Total 300–311 100 82,291 100 102,672 100
a
Ranges represent low and high numbers of subjects for the three different products.
b
Includes women older than 65.
Table 4
Rating of test product by age group—(A) lipstick, (B) body lotion, and (C) face cream
Age group
18–39 years 40–59 years 60–65 years Total
Number Percent Number Percent Number Percent Number Percent
(A) Rating of test lipstick
Disliked lipstick 33 30 32 24 9 15 74 24
Neutral 23 21 22 17 14 23 59 19
Liked lipstick 55 50 77 59 39 63 171 56
Total 111 100 131 100 62 100 304 100
Fig. 1. Rating and use of test product versus regular product by age group—(A) lipstick, (B) body lotion, and (C) face cream.
(Chi-square test with six degrees of freedom and a 5% rating or use of any of the test products (data not
significance level) to the test products with a majority shown). Again, the relatively small number of partici-
of participants in each region reporting that they liked pants in some cells (e.g., Northeast region) may have
the test product (Table 5A–C). Note however, that the limited the power of the statistical tests to detect a signif-
relatively small number of participants in some cells icant difference.
(e.g., Northeast region) may have limited the power of
the statistical tests to detect a significant difference. Sub- 3.3. Frequency of use distributions
jects in the different regions were also analyzed with re-
spect to their use of the test products. As with the 3.3.1. Daily use rates
different age groups, the majority of the women in each The proportion of women using each of the products
region reported using each of the products at least as declined over the survey duration for all three products.
often as their regular product. For face cream and body The percentage of subjects using product on day 1 was
lotion, the highest proportion of respondents in all re- 99.0%, 99.7%, and 99.0% for lipstick, body lotion, and
gions reported that they liked the test product better face cream, respectively, and declined to 73.5%, 76.0%,
than their regular product (percentage ranges of 40– and 79.0% by day 14. The decline was most pronounced
53% for face cream and 44–57% for body lotion across for participants reporting that they disliked the test
the regions). For lipstick, the percentage reporting that product (Fig. 2A–C). It is not clear if the decline in
they liked the test lipstick the same as their regular prod- the use rate among the women reporting that they liked
uct was similar across regions (range of 41–45%). There the test product reflects a higher than usual use rate
were no statistically significant differences (Chi-square in the early part of the survey followed by a leveling
test with six degrees of freedom and a 5% significance of the use rate in the later part of the survey to what
level) between the four regions with respect to their their normal use rate would have been. The probability
284 L.J. Loretz et al. / Food and Chemical Toxicology 43 (2005) 279–291
Table 5
Rating of test product by geographical region—(A) lipstick, (B) body lotion, and (C) face cream
Region
North East South Midwest West Total
Number Percent Number Percent Number Percent Number Percent Number Percent
(A) Rating of test lipstick
Disliked lipstick 9 23 21 23 25 27 19 24 74 24
Neutral 7 18 22 24 16 17 14 18 59 19
Liked lipstick 24 60 49 53 52 56 46 58 171 56
Total 40 100 92 100 93 100 79 100 304 100
1.1 1.1
1.0
1.0
.9
.9
.8
.8
.7
Lipstick Rating Lotion rating
.7
.6
Disliked Lipstick Disliked Lotion
.6
Neutral .5
Neutral
.5
Liked Lipstick .4
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Liked Lotion
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
Day
(A) (B) DAY
1.1
Proportion (SE) using The Face Cream On Given Day
1.0
.9
.8
.7
Face Cream rating
.6
Disliked Face Cream
.5
Neutral
.4
Liked Face Cream
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
(C) Day
Fig. 2. Rating and use of test product—(A) lipstick, (B) body lotion, and (C) face cream.
information was available on the actual amount used 3.3.4. Analyses of usage patterns based on product
per day. For each study participant, the ratio of the preference
amount used to the number of use days was used to esti- To further evaluate the effect of having subjects use
mate the average amount of product used per day, while model formulations in place of their normal brand of
the ratio of the total amount used to the total number of product, additional analyses were undertaken to evalu-
applications for the entire survey was used to estimate ate the effect that the subjectsÕ relative like/dislike of
the average amount of product used per application. the product had on their use patterns. For each of the
Table 7A–C summarizes the distribution of the total three products, three sets of subgroups were analyzed.
amount of each product used during the survey, the The subgroups consisted of those women that reported:
average amount of each product used per day, and the (1) disliking, liking, or neutral for the test product; (2)
average amount of each product used per application. the test product worse, the same, or better than their
The standard deviation estimates presented in these ta- regular product; and (3) used test product less often,
bles for the average amount of each product used per as often, or more often that their regular lipstick. Each
day, and the average amount of each product used per subgroup was analyzed independently to determine
application do not take into account the fact that these differences in use patterns within the three groups.
two variables are, in fact, derived as ratios of two ran- Results of the worse/same/better stratified groups are
dom variables, and thus the estimates of the standard shown in Table 8. While the number of days used tended
deviations are not adjusted for the potential covariance to be less for the subgroup that rated the product worse
between these two variables. than their regular product, the average use per day was
286 L.J. Loretz et al. / Food and Chemical Toxicology 43 (2005) 279–291
Fig. 3. Number of applications of test product for each survey day—(A) lipstick (N = 311), (B) body lotion (N = 308), and (C) face cream (N = 300).
highest in the ÔworseÕ subgroup for two of the three moval followed by re-application accounted for 4.4–
products (lipstick and face cream), and was the same 10.4%. The sixth application again showed a majority
in the ÔworseÕ and ÔbetterÕ subgroups for the third prod- of women (55.5%) made a full lipstick application. The
uct (body lotion). There was no clear correlation be- data are summarized in Table 9.
tween the average number of applications per use day
and rating of the product. Similar results were obtained 3.3.6. Number of applications per body area—body lotion
in the other stratified groups (liked product/neutral/dis- For each reported application of body lotion
liked product; and used less frequently than regular throughout the 14-day period, survey subjects recorded
product/same/used more frequently than regular prod- the area(s) of the body on which the lotion was applied
uct) (data not shown). (up to six applications per day). Fig. 4 summarizes the
number of reported applications for each body area.
3.3.5. Type of application—lipstick The body area on which the lotion was most frequently
Survey participants indicated for each lipstick appli- applied was hands, followed by arms, and followed by
cation whether it was a full application, a ‘‘touch-up’’, legs and feet.
or a complete removal followed by re-application. The
great majority of women (99.4%) made a full lipstick
application for their first application. For the second 4. Discussion
through fifth application, the most common application
was a ‘‘touch-up’’ (47.7–53.7%), while the percentage of The present study was designed to generate exposure
‘‘full’’ applications ranged from 39.0 to 43.7%, and re- data on cosmetic use practices that can be used for risk
Table 6
Number of applications per day
(A) Number of applications per day—lipstick (N = 311)
Day Applications/day
Mean Median S.D.
1 2.59 2 2.14
2 2.82 3 1.76
3 2.68 3 1.79
4 2.64 2 1.87
287
288
Table 6 (continued)
(C) Number of applications per day—face cream (N = 300)
Table 7
Amount of test product used (grams)
Summary statistics Total amount applied Averagea amount applied per use day Averageb amount applied
per application
(A) Amount of test product used (grams)—lipstick
Minimum 0.001 0.000 0.000
Maximum 2.666 0.214 0.214
Mean 0.272 0.024 0.010
S.D. 0.408 0.034 0.018
Percentiles
10th 0.026 0.003 0.001
20th 0.063 0.005 0.003
30th 0.082 0.008 0.004
40th 0.110 0.010 0.004
50th 0.147 0.013 0.005
60th 0.186 0.016 0.006
70th 0.242 0.021 0.009
80th 0.326 0.029 0.011
90th 0.655 0.055 0.024
95th 0.986 0.087 0.037
99th 2.427 0.191 0.089
Best fit distributions & parametersc Lognormal distribution Lognormal distribution Lognormal distribution
Geometric mean 0.14 Geometric mean 0.01 Geometric mean 0.01
Geometric S.D. 3.56 Geometric S.D. 3.45 Geometric S.D. 3.29
P-value (Gof) = 0.01 P-value (Gof) < 0.01 P-value (Gof) < 0.01
Table 7 (continued)
Summary statistics Total amount applied Averagea amount applied Averageb amount applied
per use day per application
95th 48.89 3.99 2.97
99th 51.29 12.54 10.44
Best fit distributions & parameters Triangle distribution Lognormal distributionc Lognormal distributionc
Minimum 1.09 Geometric Mean 1.39 Geometric Mean 0.80
Maximum 58.71 Geometric S.D. 2.58 Geometric S.D. 2.55
Likeliest 7.53
P-value (GoF) = 0.27 P-value (GoF) < 0.01 P-value (GoF) = 0.02
a
Derived as the ratio of the total amount used to the number of use days.
b
Derived as the ratio of the total amount used to the total number of applications during the survey.
c
None of the tested distributions provided a good fit.
Table 8
Summary of use patterns based on the respondentsÕ reported rating of the test product compared to their regular product
Rating Lipstick Face cream Body lotion
group
# of # of Average # Average # of # of Average # of Average # of # of Average # of Average
subjects days of applications use subjects days applications use per subjects days applications use per
used per use day per day used per use day day (g) used per use day (g)
(S.D.) (S.D.) (g) (S.D.) (S.D.) (S.D.) (S.D.) (S.D.) day (S.D.) (S.D.)
Worse 99 11.1 2.8 0.026 59 11.6 1.7 2.2 64 11.4 2.1 8.8
(3.8) (1.6) (0.035) (3.7) (0.6) (2.7) (4.2) (1.2) (6.8)
Same 133 12.4 2.5 0.022 99 12.8 1.7 1.7 88 12.4 2.5 8.2
(2.7) (1.3) (0.034) (2.6) (0.7) (1.5) (2.9) (1.5) (5.0)
Better 74 12.8 2.9 0.021 137 13.5 2.1 1.9 154 13.1 2.8 8.8
(2.3) (1.5) (0.032) (1.3) (1.2) (1.2) (1.5) (1.5) (4.2)
All 306 12.1 2.7 0.024 295 12.8 1.9 2.05 306 12.5 2.5 8.7
rating (3.1) (1.5) (0.034) (2.6) (1.0) (2.9) (2.8) (1.5) (5.1)
groups
ARMS
LEGS
NECK&THROAT
FEET
BACK
correlation between the average number of applications
OTHER
per use day and rating of the product. Therefore it is
concluded that the normal variation in use practices
was greater than differences that result from the subjectsÕ
Fig. 4. Total reported number of body lotion uses per body area. The like or dislike of the product. This supports the validity
‘‘boxes’’ represent the range between the 1st and 3rd quartiles and of the data, and the general validity of developing expo-
include the middle 50% of the observations. The horizontal line inside sure data using model formulations in place of specific
the box represents the median. The ‘‘whiskers’’ extend from the boxes
to the end to the farthest points that are not outliers. Observations that
brands of product.
are outside the range defined by the quartiles ± 1.5 · interquartile The study was carried out in 10 cities, in order to as-
range are considered outliers. The interquartile range is the difference sess regional variation, which could be due to factors
between the 75th percentile and the 25th percentile. Outliers are such as weather, or could reflect cultural differences in
represented by ‘‘o’’ (if they are further outside, i.e., if they are outside the use of these products. No significant differences were
the quartiles ± 1.5 · interquartile range) or ‘‘H’’ (if they are further
outside, i.e., if they are outside the quartiles ±3 · interquartile range).
seen in product usage across the different regions of the
country. However, the relatively small number of partic-
plification of the study design and execution. The disad- ipants in some cells (specifically the number of subjects
vantage is that real world variation may be lost, and use from the Northeast region) may have limited the power
practices may be affected. of this study to detect significant differences between
To address the latter point, respondents were asked regions (if any).
to rate the product in an absolute sense (liked, neutral, The data reported here provide current usage informa-
disliked) and relative to the product they usually use tion for three widely used cosmetic product types for
(better, same, worse). Percentages of respondents which reliable data was not previously readily available.
reporting that they either liked or were neutral to the These data provide a starting point for cosmetic safety
product were 71%, 83%, and 87% for lipstick, body lo- assessment. In order to evaluate specific ingredients,
tion, and face cream, respectively. Products were rated information on their concentration in a product, and on
the same or better than the subjectsÕ regular product dermal penetration, will be useful to refine exposure
by 67%, 79%, and 80%. Study subjects were also asked assessments. Additional studies to evaluate exposure
to compare product usage during the study with their levels for other product types are currently underway.
usual practices. The percentages reporting using product
as often as their regular product were 61%, 58%, and
68% for lipstick, body lotion, and face cream, respec- References
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