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GARMENTS
Qualification Title
DRESSMAKING NCII
Unit of Competency
Draft and cut pattern of casual apparel
Module Title
Drafting and cutting pattern of casual apparel
Welcome!
The unit of competency “Draft and cut pattern of casual apparel” contains the
knowledge, skills and attitudes required for DRESSMAKING NCII.
Remember to:
Work through all the information and complete the activities in each
section.
Read information sheets and complete the self-checks. Suggested
references are included to supplement the materials provided in this
module.
Perform the Task Sheets and Job Sheets until you are confident that your
outputs conform to the Performance Criteria Checklist that follows the
sheets.
Submit outputs of the Task Sheets and Job Sheets to your facilitator for
evaluation and recording in the Achievement Chart. Outputs shall serve
as your portfolio during the Institutional Competency Evaluation. When
you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask your trainer to
evaluate you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in your
DRESSMAKING NCII
List of Competencies
Module Description:
This unit covers the outcomes required in drafting and cutting basic/block
patterns for casual apparel. It includes the requirements for planning
garment design, taking body measurement, drafting basic/block pattern and
cutting final pattern.
Learning Outcomes:
At the end of this module you MUST be able to:
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Customer’s job requirements are determined in accordance with
company’s practice
2. Garment design is prepared in accordance with the client’s requirements
3. Design and fabric are discussed and selected according to client’s
specifications
4. Special needs of the client are incorporated into the design based on
procedures
5. Measuring tools are prepared in accordance with job requirements.
6. Body measurements are taken based on procedures
7. Body measurements of client are taken in sequence according to job
requirements and standard body measurement
A. Active Casual
Activities that have been physically interacting require the
appropriate clothing for these. This type of casual wear is called Active
Casual. Jogging suits, warm-ups, wind suits, running shorts, tennis
skirts, biking shorts, leggings, leotards, snow-ski garb, etc. exemplify this
classification.
B. Rugged Casual
The Rugged Casual category draws garments from the typical
apparel of the more outdoorsy sports, like hunting, fishing,
backpacking, rock climbing, etc. Unless your job is related to these
types of industries, this apparel does not mean business in the
workplace.
C. Sporty Casual
This category is not about playing a sport, but more about the
relaxed look of a spectator. Sportswear has been synonymous with
casual separates in the fashion world for years. Since that term was
coined over fifty years ago, the world has changed dramatically. Today,
the sportswear section of a store includes everything except suits,
dresses, and formal wear. Anytime you are wearing a sneaker-type
shoe with jeans, khakis, walking shorts, skirts, etc., and you are not
participating in a sport, you are dressed in the Sporty Casual
category. Notice, it is sporty. Most sports have particular items of
clothing that support participants in performing well in that game.
E. Dressy Casual
Due to the nature and the time of the event, the host means Dressy
Casual (Casual Elegance), which is similar to Smart Casual, with no
jeans.
1. For male or female, the shoes take on a dressier tone, and the
fabrics are richer, dressier.
2. For women, this level of casual implies a pant suit, a dress, or
coordinated separates in semi-dressy fabrics. Dressy Casual
demands that the outfit be well-coordinated and accessorized.
3. For men, this category indicates dress trousers, a turtleneck or
mock-turtle version, a dress shirt or a silk sport shirt (long-
sleeved), a tie (optional), and a jacket or sport coat.
F. Business Casual
Business Casual is only one category of business attire.
Business dress has three primary categories: Power Business, General
Business, and Business Casual. A simple definition of Business
Casual is “A comfortably relaxed version of classic business attire,
with no sacrifice of professionalism or personal power.”Business
Casual draws from the aforementioned Smart Casual and Dressy
Casual categories, with many distinctions. True Business Casual
attire incorporates the more tailored garments from those two
classifications.
Test I
Enumeration:
Test II
Multiple choice:
a. Dressy Casual
b. Rugged Casual
c. Active Casual
d. Smart Casual
a. Sporty Casual
b. Smart Casual
c. Active Casual
d. Rugged Casual
a. Sporty Casual
b. Smart Casual
c. Active Casual
d. Rugged Casual
a. Active Casual
5. Due to the nature and the time of the event, the host means
_______________ (Casual Elegance), which is similar to Smart Casual,
with no jeans.
a. Rugged Casual
b. Dressy Casual
c. Active Casual
d. Smart Casual
Test III
Essay:
Test I
a.
Active Casual
Rugged Casual
Sporty Casual
Smart Casual
Dressy Casual
Business Casual
Test II
1. c. Active Casual
2. b. Smart Casual
3. a. Seam Ripper
4. d. Rugged Casual
5. b. Dressy Casual
Test III
Learning Objectives
After reading this information sheet, you must be able to:
1. Identify the types of fabric
I. Challis
Sometimes referred to as challie or chally, is a lightweight woven
fabric, originally a silk-and-wool, or from man-made fabrics such as rayon.
It was first manufactured in Norwich, England. Challis could be made with
woven designs, or printed. French challis has a glossy finish. The designs
were often floral, paisley, or geometric, and based on French silk patterns.
Term is derived from an Anglo-Indian word, shale, which means “soft”.
II. Cotton
It is a soft , fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll. The fiber is most
often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile.
The use of cotton for fabric is known to date to prehistoric times. Although
cultivated since antiquity, it was the invention of the cotton gin that lowered
the cost of production that led to its widespread use, and it is most widely
used natural fiber cloth on clothing today.
III. Gabardine
A tough, tightly woven fabric used to make suits, overcoats, trousers,
uniforms, windbreakers and other garments.
IV. Satin
It is a weave that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. It is
commonly used in apparel: satin baseball jackets, a women’s lingerie,
nightgown and evening gowns. It is used in the production of Pointe shoes
for use in ballet. Other uses include interior furnishing fabrics, upholstery
and bed sheets. Typical examples of satin weave fabrics include: slipper
satin, crepe-back satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin, and antique
satin.
V. Rayon
Rayon is a regenerated cellulose fibre which is almost pure cellulose.
Other names for rayon are viscose and art silk.
VI. Polyester
Polyester is a man-made fabric made from by-products of petroleum
and coal, mixed with air and water. Like nylon, it has low water absorbency
and is quite flammable.
_____2. Other uses include interior furnishing fabrics, upholstery and bed
sheets.
_____7. The fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a
soft, breathable textile.
_____9. It is a weave that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back .
____10. Like nylon, it has low water absorbency and is quite flammable.
I.
1. GABARDINE
2. SATIN
3. RAYON
4. POLYESTER
5. CHALLIS
6. CHALLIS
7. COTTON
8. SATIN
9. SATIN
10. POLYESTER
II.
a. slipper satin
b. crepe-back satin
c. faille satin
d. bridal satin
e. moleskin
f. antique satin
A. Measuring Tools
B. Drafting tools
C. Cutting tools
D. Marking tools
E. Sewing Tools
1. NEEDLES
2. PINS – use rustproof pins which are fine, smooth and sharp. They
should be clean.
5. THIMBLE – this gadget is worn in the middle of the finger of the right
hand for protection while sewing.
The tailor’s square is easy to use. If you divide a certain number, find
the divisional space locate the number to be divided. This is done after
dividing the measurement of the given part of the body into two since you
are only drafting for half of the body. The measurement is expressed in
scales.
To illustrate, if you have to get ½ of the breast scale, divide the
measurement (example: Bust-34”) by two and look for the half division
which is the short arm. And 17 is the needed measurement. If the
breast/bust measurement is 35, again divide by and you get 17 ½. For the
½ division, look in the L-square and between 17-18.
PATTERN PAPER
DRESSMAKERS
CARBON PAPER
TAPE MEASURE
SEAM RIPPER
TRACING WHEEL
FRENCH CURVE
SCISSOR
TAILOR’S CHALK
HIP CURVE
SHEARS
NEEDLES
TAILOR’S SQUARE or
L-SQUARE
PINKING SHEARS
PINS
THIMBLE
THREAD
Column A Column B
Column B
Equipment: Handout
Steps/Procedure:
1. Given descriptions (from the client) determine what fabric for a cloth’s
design best suits the clients taste.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
Observation
Questioning
Written Examination
14. BOTTOM – Circumference of the bottom where the desire length is.
Supplies/Materials: None
Handout
Pencil
Equipment:
Tape measure
Notebook
Steps/Procedure:
1. Measure the client’s body measurement with the aid of you handout
(How to Do it?) make sure you’ll come to a best result.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
Observation
Questioning
Written Examination
Blouse:
FRONT:
AB – Blouse length
AC – Neck deep, 3 o 3 ½ o 4 inches
AD – Shoulder slope, 1 o 1 ½
inches
AG - Measurement from shoulder
to waist
AH – Neck width, 3 o 3 ½ inches
DF – Half measurement of the
Armhole
DI – Half measurement of the
shoulders
EJ - Half measurement of the
shoulders diminished by ¾
inch
FK – Fourth part of the Bust
circumference measurement
plus ¼ inch (allowance)
GL – Fourth part of the waistline
plus 1 ¼ inches(dart) at ¼
inch (allowance)
BM - Fourth part of Hips(1) plus ¼
inch (allowance)
FN/GP/ BQ – Half measurement of
the bust width
NO - 2 inches
RPS - 1 ¼ inches (dart)
OP/ PT – Same measurement
Collar:
SPORTS:
AB/CD – Collar stand, 3 inches SPORTS COLLAR
BD – Half measurement of the neck
circumference
CE – 2” o 1”
SPORTS COLLAR
BABY:
AB/CD – Collar Stand, 3 inches
BD – Half measurement of the neck
circumference
TRUBENIZE COLLAR
TRUBENIZE:
AB/CD – 2 inches
BD – Half measurement of the neck circumference
BE/DF – 1 inch (Bangkito)
Shorts
FRONT:
AB – Short length
AC – Crotch measurement,
diminished by ¼ inch for the
belt
CD – Fourth part of the waistline
plus ½ inch
DE – 2” or 2 ½” or 1 ½”
AG – Fourth part of the waistline
plus allowance for dart
I – Fourth part measurement of the
Thigh
BJ – Half measurement of the thigh
GF – Use hip curve
FL – Use French curve
BACK:
GK – From waist going upward 1 ¼”
or 1 ½”
F – Fourth part of the hips plus 1”
or ¾” or ½”
EL – 2” or 2 ½” or 1 ½”
JM – 1 ½”
N – in between KA for the dart at the back
NO – 4” going down for the dart length
Steps/Procedure:
1. Draft the front and back blouse pattern in accordance with the clients
measurement including the special needs (color, sleeves).
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
Observation
Questioning
Written Examination
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.3-2
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you…..
1. consider the design the client desired for his apparel?
Steps/Procedure:
1. Draft the front and back skirt pattern in accordance with the clients
measurement.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
Observation
Questioning
Written Examination
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.3-3
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you…..
1. consider the design the client desired for his apparel?
Steps/Procedure:
1. Draft the front and back slacks pattern in accordance with the clients
measurement.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
Observation
Questioning
Written Examination
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.3-4
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you…..
1. consider the design the client desired for his apparel?
Steps/Procedure:
1. Draft the front and back pattern in accordance with the clients
measurement of the following:
a. Blouse
b. Skirt
c. Slacks
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
Observation
Questioning
Written Examination
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.3-5
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you…..
1. consider the design the client desired for his apparel?
10. consider the design the client desired for his apparel?
Steps/Procedure:
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
Observation
Questioning
Written Examination
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.4-2
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you…..
1. ?
2. ?
3. ?
LEARNING OUTCOME # 5 CUT FINAL PATTERN
CONTENTS:
1. Cutting the pattern
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Tools for cutting pattern are selected in accordance with job
requirements
2. Pattern is cut in accordance with customer’s
specifications/measurements
CONDITIONS:
Students/trainees must be provided with the following:
1. Drafting tools
Patterned paper
2. Cutting tools
Scissors
ASSESSMENT METHOD:
Actual Demonstration
Direct Observation
LEARNING EXPERIENCES
Cut Final Pattern
LEARNING ACTIVITIES SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
Perform TASK SHEET No. 1.5-1 Cut Perform the given TASK SHEET No.
It Now 1.5-1 Cut It Now. It will help you
master your skills. Check your
output by using the Performance
Criteria Checklist No. 1.5-1 Cut It
Now. This will help you evaluate your
work as you practice your skill.
Present your output to your trainer
for final Evaluation, feedback and
Recording. If you have questions,
don’t hesitate to approach your
trainer.
TASK SHEET 1.5-1
Title : Cut It Now
Steps/Procedure:
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
Observation
Questioning
Written Examination
Performance Criteria Checklist 1.5-1
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you…..
1. ?
2. ?
3. ?
REFERENCE
*Types of Casual Apparel
http://www.casualpower.com/business_casual_tips/six_categories.html
*Types of Fabric
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_fabric_names