PATTERNMAKING FOR UNDERWEAR DESIGN Kristina Shin, Ph.D.PATTERNMAKING. FOR UNDERWEAR DESIGN Kristina Shin fattermaking for Underwear Design ech Copyright ©2010 Kitna Shin Allright eserved under Intemational and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. No part ofthis publication may te reproduced, stored in 3 retrieval aystem o ransmicted in any frm or by any means, electronic or mechs} by photocopying recording or otherwise, without the express written permission ofthe copyright owner Uunderweardesign@ gmail.com Ison: 151511590, ave 978451511598 Printed inthe United States of AmericaPreface peter ere races soe, TN book stared 25 2 sims Lee anceps, Soe eee rodecescomman Ne ettel ener anova Bee re aE nee ene rated ane me nd) dveopeduane the ft paternmaking Snech. Te method eee eee once penlng lst ene vus acess rom sich wih commercial it quality. mn also introduces different types of underwear, categorised ‘tion: 1, Foundation, 2. Lingerie, and 3. Sleepwear/lounge atternmaking for Underwear Desir into three sub-groups based on funk vr paternmating andthe construction of lingerie and sleepwear/loungewear i reatvely move rghtonvard than the methods vsed for foundation garments. AS 2 consequence, the author cancentrates on the development of foundation garments and the bra in particular Since its advent faithe late 19th century the bra has evolved into 2 highly complex ad sophisticated garment which deeves multiple functions by supporting the breasts and creating whatever isthe fashionable shape ‘ofthe time. itis perhaps not surprising then that the bra is still evolving as a result of changes in fashion trends and rapid developments in cutting edge technologies such as moulding, bonding, and amination, nd ultrasonic sewing technology, as well as smart materials developments. otternmaking for Underweor Design has seven chapters. Chapter 1 helps readers gain an ‘understanding of underwear in general, and the bra in particular. Chapter 2 demonstrates how to create the basic blocks which are then used and developed further in later chapters. Chapter 3 ‘considers different types of bra pattern which produce garments with commercial it quality and introduces not only the industry's basic underwired bra direct drafting method, but also the author's ‘own innovative flat patternmaking method for the lower centre bra, sports bra and soft bra pattern. (Chapter 4 contains diferent types of corsetry pattern reflecting the recent fashion renaissance for ‘these garments. Chapter 5 introduces four different types of pattern for briefs and panties. Chapter G introduces four diferent types of sleepwear. Last but least, chapter 7 covers other soft lingerie | would ite to thank the wonderful pattern and sample makers whom I metin Sample makers whom I metin the industry during my time a designer and pattemmake or bath outenwear and underwear, Without their generosity mane ‘their knowledge and passion for patternmaking, this book wouldn't be possible. | also wel thank Mz and Mrs Sa, Chatman onde Chinon o ACE Sie inmate Appr 2 wo leadng ndervear manufacture fr thei sppotand gees, As, | wuld ike to thank institute of Textiles and Clothing ofthe Hong Kong Polytechnic University for providing me with 2 Sound research environment, Last But leat, | would keto thank my family ad friends ‘Support and encouragement. ena tens for thelr Kristina Shin Pho. Contents Preface Chapter 1 Introduction 1 1.1 Underwear 2 1.2 Patternmaking 3 1.2.1 The basic block 3 1.2.2 The intermediate block 3 1.3 Body measurements 4 13.1 Brasizing 4 1.3.2 Sizing conversion chart 4 113.3 Body measurements chart 5 1.4 Materials and trims 9 1.4.1 Fabrics 9 1.4.2 Laces 10 1.4.3 Elastic trims 11 1.4.4 Accessories 12 1.4.5 Paddings 13, 1.5 Bra anatomy 14 1.6 Underwire and cup coverage 15 1.7 Finding the centre of a wire 17 118 Bra back design and support 19 Chapter 2 The basic blocks 21 2.1 The basic bodice block 21 2.2 The basic sir block 31 2.3 The basic Tshirt block 38 Chapter 3 Different types of bra pattern 48 3.1 The basic underwired bra pattern 49 3.2 The hook-up bra pattern 63 3.3 The two-dart full cup lace bra pattern 69 3.4 The lower centre T-cup bra 78: 3.5 The sports bra pattern 90 3.6 The soft bra pattern 107 Chapter 4 Different types of corsetry pattern 117 4. The corset pattern 118 4.2 The alkin-one pattern 126 4.3 The waspie pattern 141 4.4 The garter belt pattern 150 Chapter 5, ifferent panty patterns 155 5.1 The brief pattern 156 5.2 The thong pattern 163 5.3 The boy leg brief pattern 169 54 The French knickers pattern 178 Chapter 6 Different types of sleepwear pattern 187 6.1 The babydoll pattern 188 6.2 The slip pattern 195 6.3 The camiknickers pattern 202 6.4 The pyjama shirt pattern 210 65 The pyjama pants pattern 223 Chapter 7 Camisole, bodysuit and leggings 231 7.1 The camisole pattern 232 7.2 The bodysuit pattern 238 73 The leggings pattern 245 References 251