KOLEJ MARA KUALA NERANG, KEDAH.

FOUNDATION IN SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY 2015/2016

ASSIGNMENT 1
NAME : NUR AFRINA BINTI

CLASS : T11

COLLEGE N0 :

MARK :
GLOSSARY
INTRODUCTION

A
n automotive battery is a type of rechargeable battery that supplies
electric energy to an automobile.An automotive SLI battery (starting,
lighting, ignition) is an automotive battery that powers the starter motor,
the lights, and the ignition system of a vehicle's engine, mainly in combustion
vehicles.

Automotive SLI batteries are usually lead-acid type, and are made of six galvanic
cells in series to provide a 12-volt system. Each cell provides 2.1 volts for a total
of 12.6 volts at full charge. Heavy vehicles, such as highway trucks or tractors,
often equipped with diesel engines, may have two batteries in series for a 24-volt
system or may have parallel strings of batteries.

Lead-acid batteries are made up of plates of lead and separate plates of lead
dioxide, which are submerged into an electrolyte solution of about 38% sulfuric
acid and 62% water.[2] This causes a chemical reaction that releases electrons,
allowing them to flow through conductors to produce electricity. As the battery
discharges, the acid of the electrolyte reacts with the materials of the plates,
changing their surface to lead sulfate. When the battery is recharged, the
chemical reaction is reversed: the lead sulfate reforms into lead dioxide and lead.
With the plates restored to their original condition, the process may now be
repeated.

Battery recycling of automotive batteries reduces the need for resources required
for manufacture of new batteries, diverts toxic lead from landfills, and prevents
risk of improper disposal.

Figure 1
Types of battery

Lead-acid batteries for automotive use are made with slightly different
construction techniques, depending on the application of the battery. The
"flooded cell" type, indicating liquid electrolyte, is typically inexpensive and long-
lasting, but requires more maintenance and can spill or leak. Some flooded
batteries have removable caps that allow for the electrolyte to be tested and
maintained.

More costly alternatives to flooded batteries are valve regulated lead acid (VRLA)
batteries, also called "sealed" batteries. The absorbed glass mat (AGM) type
uses a glass mat separator, and a "gel cell" uses fine powder to absorb and
immobilize the sulfuric acid electrolyte. These batteries are not serviceable: the
cells are sealed so the degree of charge cannot be measured by hydrometer and
the electrolyte cannot be replenished. They are typically termed "maintenance-
free" by proponents, or "unable to be maintained" by skeptics. In particular, they
are not suitable for older (pre-alternator) vehicles with unsophisticated charging
control systems.

The starting (cranking) or shallow cycle type is designed to deliver large bursts of
power for a short time, as is needed to start an engine. Once the engine is
started, the battery is recharged by the engine-driven charging system. Starting
batteries are intended to have a low depth of discharge on each use. They are
constructed of many thin plates with thin separators between the plates, and may
have a higher specific gravity electrolyte to reduce internal resistance .

The deep cycle (or motive) type is designed to continuously provide power for
long periods of time (for example in a trolling motor for a small boat, auxiliary
power for a recreational vehicle, or traction power for a golf cart or other battery
electric vehicle). They can also be used to store energy from a photovoltaic array
or a small wind turbine. Deep-cycle batteries have fewer, thicker plates and are
intended to have a greater depth of discharge on each cycle, but will not provide
as high a current on heavy loads. The thicker plates survive a higher number of
charge/discharge cycles. The specific energy is in the range of 30-40 watt-hours
per kilogram.
CONTENT

There are many reason why your car battery could be dead.First,look at your
battery,how old is your car battery?

The first and most obvious reason is your battery could be old. Five or more
years for a car battery is a good life. Car batteries are primarily only used for
cranking the car engine so they should last long since the depth of discharge is
typically low which reduces the amount of cycles they experience. However as
they age they experience a more rapid falloff of capacity and eventually go flat
faster which is why older car batteries will start to die more often as they age.

No two car batteries perform alike. Why? Well on paper they do, however the real
reason no two batteries perform the same is because they are subjected to
different environments. Cars have different starting requirements and accessories
that may need powering when the engine is off. Ambient temperatures have
significant effects on car batteries and temperatures vary around the globe. The
biggest reason batteries perform different is due to the users. Assuming the car
battery is used for a typical car with a combustion engine, the user will have their
own unique patterns such as frequency of starting the car, driving distance, non-
driving durations and accessory use when the car is not running. This is why
there is a large fuzzy area in the real life performance of car batteries.
Factors that can affect the car battery to die :
1. Parasitic Draw
2. Sulfation
3. Water

1.Is your battery experiencing parasitic draw?

Parasitic draw can be difficult to assess. If your battery is relatively new and
believed to be in good condition but still goes dead overnight or after a few days
of not driving it, then you should definitely have an experienced car battery
specialist or trusted mechanic test it for parasitic draw. Parasitic draw is a load
put on a battery when the car is not in use. Meaning everything is off, key is out
of the ignition all doors are closed including glove boxes, trunks and anything that
would have a light associated with it when it is open.

Hood lights need to be disabled when testing for parasitic draw. Some luxury cars
maintain a load on the battery for a certain amount of time after it is parked and
its system shut down, etc. Read the manual for how long or let your car sit for an
hour prior to testing it. Key Fobs can also activate systems in a car so leave them
away from the car when you do testing.

Parasitic draw troubleshooting can be a tedious time consuming task. Correcting

the problem can be tedious as well when electrical diagrams need to be
analyzed. The most common method for testing for parasitic draw is to use a
voltmeter and pull out fuses one by one until the amperage drops to an
acceptable load of
2. What is sulfation?
The biggest culprit of car battery failure is due to sulfation. This is when lead
sulfate crystals form on the lead plates eventually reducing the current within the
electrolyte. As batteries sit without being charged, they start to sulfate. The longer
a battery sits with increasing depth of discharge, the sulfation gets worse. In
some cases it may not be recoverable. The way to reverse this is by either pulse
charging the battery or by slow trickle charging the car battery. Sulfation may
eventually cause the active material on the lead plates to break off and fall into
the bottom of the cells which eventually will cause a short circuit as the material
builds up in the bottom. There is no way to reverse this. Deeper cell basins is not
a solution either since batteries rely on the balance of chemistry and deeper
basins would mean larger casings, more electrolyte and thicker plates, etc.

Figure 2: Normal battery

The acid is equally distributed from the top to
the bottom in the cell and provides maximum
CCA and capacity.

Figure 3: Stratified battery

The acid concentration is light on top and
heavy on the bottom. High acid concentration
artificially raises the open circuit voltage. The
battery appears fully charged but has a low
CCA. Excessive acid concentration induces
sulfation on the lower half of the plates.
3.Does the car battery have water?
Water plays a critical role in the electrochemical equation of a car battery.
Although most car batteries are sealed and maintenance free, they do usually
have a water level indicator that will allow you to observe if the water level is
good. Low water level means the electrolyte will be out of balance and the battery
cells will become too acidic resulting in sulfation on the battery plates. The non-
conductive lead sulfate crystals will hinder flow of current through the electrolyte.

Why would my car battery be losing water?

In most cases your car is being charged by the alternator and cars are
sophisticated enough to not overcharge your battery. Water is typically lost during
overcharging of a car battery. This may occur if you use a car battery charger that
is not sophisticated with a built in float mode and ambient temperature sensor.
Battery capacity changes according to the ambient heat it is subjected to. Colder
temperatures decrease battery capacity while hotter temperatures increase
battery capacity. As a battery is heated up from overcharging, it will allow more
current to flow into the battery. If the charger does not take ambient temperature
into consideration it could generate too high of a charge voltage causing
excessive current to flow into a battery once it is fully charged. This excessive
current will cause decomposition of water in the electrolyte resulting in premature
aging of the car battery.

Furthermore, excessive overcharging could lead to thermal runaway where the

battery continues to heat up and capacity continues to increase so the charger is
able to push more current into the battery. This could destroy a lead-acid car
battery in a few hours.

Remember if you use a car battery charger, be sure it has a float mode and an
ambient temperature control sensor so it will not over charge the battery.
METHOD

Steps to overcome the dead car battery by components :

1. Fuses.
2. Battery.
3. Ignition switch.
4. Starter connection.
5. Coil.
6. Distributor cap.
7. Electrical connections.
8. Fuel.

Figure 4

Check Your Fuses: Few cars have a fuse associated with the starting
system, but before you go monkeying around with everything, check your
fuses to be sure it's not that simple.

Battery Corrosion: Over time your battery connections can become dirty,
or corroded. This corrosion breaks the connection your battery has with
the rest of the car, and it won't start. Try cleaning your battery posts and
try to start the car again.
Dead Battery: The most common reason your car won't start is a dead
battery. If you have a battery tester that can measure cranking amps, test
your battery to see if it's weak. If you can't test it yourself, you can test the
battery indirectly by jump-starting the car. If it starts right away, your
problem is most likely a dead battery. Replace the battery, and clean the
battery connections to ensure good contact.

Bad Igntion Switch: If your battery checks out, but the starter is still
silent, it may be a faulty ignition switch. Turn the key to the on position (not
all the way to start). If the red warning lights on your dash don't light up
(and your battery connections are clean), the ignition switch is bad. If they
do light up, turn the key to the start position. The dash warning lights
should turn off at this key position (most cars). If you're not sure, turn on
the headlights. When you try to start the car, the lights should either dim (a
lot) or turn off completely. If they do, your ignition switch should be ok. If
not, the switch will need replacement.

Bad Starter Connection: Corrosion can not only keep your battery from
connecting, it can affect any electrical component, especially the ones
exposed to the elements like the starter. If you have a helper, you can test
the connection by holding a circuit tester lead on the wire that engages the
starter. This is the smaller of the two wires connected to the starter. Be
sure no part of your body is near the moving parts of the engine - it could
still start at any time! Have a friend turn the key and check the current. If
you're getting current to the starter but it ain't spinning, it needs
replacement.With the starter-related causes of your no-start problem out of
the way, we continue the search for why your car won't start. If the engine
can't get spark, there will be no fire. But don't crawl into the hole just yet.
Spark is created by your car's ignition system (ignition means "to ignite).
Ignition system troubleshooting isn't too difficult when you're looking for a
no-start problem. The first place to check is your coil.
Coil Testing: To properly test your ignition coil you'll need a multimeter
that can measure impedance. If you don't have a multimeter, there is an
easier test you can perform using simple hand tools. Test your coil and, if
it's bad, replace it.

Coil Wire: The starting problem could also be due to a broken or shorting
coil wire. Inspect the wire to see if there are any obvious cracks or splits,
then test for continuity using a circuit tester.

Distributor Cap: Your no-start problem probably isn't caused by your

distributor cap, but occasionally, especially during wet weather, a faulty
cap can keep your car from starting. Remove your distributor cap and
check the inside for moisture. If there is even a drop or mist of water
inside, wipe it out with a clean, dry cloth. Inspect the cap for cracks and
replace it if necessary. Once its dry, though, it'll work.

Electrical Connections: There are plenty of electrical connections in your

fuel injection system. Each fuel injector has a connector on top. There are
connections on the air side of the intake and on the cylinder heads.
Basically you should check every electrical connection you can find under
the hood to be sure it's tight.

Fuel Pump and Relay: To check your fuel pump, you can do a fuel
system pressure test - if you have the equipment. Since most of us don't
have that type of thing, we'll first check the electrical connections. Test the
positive side of the fuel pump for current with a circuit tester. Be sure the
key is in the "On" position. If there's current, move on to the next step. If
not, you should check the fuse. If the fuse is good, your problem is the fuel
pump relay.

Fuel Filter: If the fuel pump is working properly and fuel is still not
reaching the engine, the problem could be a clogged fuel filter. You should
be replacing your fuel filter every 12,000 miles or so anyway, so if you
suspect it could be clogged, go ahead and replace it.
Below are steps on how to handle a dead battery problems :

1.Use a charger.
Connect the red cable to the positive terminal, black to negative. If you have a
"green eye" charge indicator on the battery, charge until it turns green. If not,
disconnect the charger for half an hour and check the voltage (engine stopped) -
12.6 Volts indicates a full charge, 12.3 Volts half charged. Use a multimeter set to
a DC Voltage range greater than 12 Volts full scale.

Touch the red probe to the positive side of the battery, black to the negative side.
A typical 5 amp charger may take more than 8 hours to charge the battery. More
powerful chargers are for expert users, because they may blow up the battery! A
tiny 1 amp cigarette lighter charger may be left connected indefinitely.

2.Make sure the battery terminals are clean.

A buildup of white powder between the terminal and the cable prevents a large
current from flowing to the starter. Clean with a wet rag with baking soda
sprinkled on. Use fine sandpaper if necessary. Be very careful when using metal
tools near the positive terminal - avoid shorting the terminal to any metal part of
the car.

Figure 5
3.Test the charging system with a Voltmeter.

With the car running put the multimeter on a DC Voltage range greater than 14
Volts and touch the probes to the battery terminals. The Voltage should be
between 14.0 and 14.5 Volts for effective charging. If below 14, you probably
need a new alternator. Above, you need a mechanic to adjust it.

Figure 6

4.If you suspect current is leaking and discharging the battery, check it with
the current measuring part of a multimeter.This is a little more complicated.
Engine off for all this!

a. Cover the positive battery terminal with a rag so you can't accidentally
touch it.
b. Use a wrench to disconnect the cable from the negative battery
terminal.
c. Set the meter to the largest DC current range (at least 10 Amperes;
this may involve plugging the probe wire to a different jack in the
meter).
d. Use clips to connect the red probe to the disconnected cable and the
black probe to the negative battery terminal. The current will then flow
through the meter to the car, enabling the meter to measure the
current. When first connected, the current may be large. An open door
will draw at least 5 amperes for the interior lights, and the lights may
stay on for several minutes after closing the doors.

e. If you have an under hood light, disconnect it or remove the bulb. The
current should go down to near zero. Most cars draw only 0.010
Amperes (10 mA) for the clock. Anything under 50 mA is alright. While
watching the meter, rock the car, pat the fuse box, wiggle the doors
(without opening). A current of even half an Ampere indicates a
problem.

Figure 7
5.The current may be too small for the highest range of the meter.

If you know the current is less than 1 Ampere, you can switch the meter down to
the 1 Amp range. Be careful with lower ranges such as 100 mA - it is very easy to
burn out that range on the meter with excessive current. If you have to move the
probe lead to a different jack on the meter, you must use a clip lead to connect
the black and red leads to each other during the move so the car maintains its
connection to the battery and doesn't draw its larger initial current when
connected again. At a current of .05 amperes (50 mA), a battery will take 700
hours (30 days) to half discharge. If your car's current is that low, you do not have
a discharge problem. Do check that underhood light to make sure it goes off
when the hood is closed. Or leave it disconnected.

Figure 8
FIGURES & PICTURES

Figure 9 : Car battery component

Figure 10 : Car battery inside

compartment

Figure 11 : Cross Section of Car Battery

 Figure 11 : Chemical Reaction Of Car Battery

Figure 12 : 5 Steps To Check Figure 13 : Recycled battery

Battery
CONCLUSION

Most vehicles draw some battery current when the key is off, thanks to the
internal memory of engine computers, body-control modules and radio presets.
Altogether, they draw a very small amount of current. Fifty milliamps would be a
safe upper limit for this, although many vehicles will draw less.

There's nothing but a loud buzzing noise coming from under the hood
when you try to start your car. Jumper cables get you up and scurrying to work--
but you need another jump to get home. Time to pull some maintenance on the
battery.

Automotive batteries have a finite life span. Undercharging, overcharging

and heat all team up to degrade your battery. Poor electrical connections make it
more difficult for even a good battery to do its job.