1. Preparation.

Your parts should be virtually 100% free of defects and bubbles, and have only
minimal mould lines, so clean up is usually straightforward. It's easiest to remove the
parts from the sprues carefully with clippers. Arms are supplied as pairs, and should be
kept on their "letter" tab until they are about to be glued on a model!
Resin is reasonably easy to work with, but if you choose to use sandpaper or a file this
can create hazardous dust. Work in a well ventilated area and use water on your tools
to minimise dust in the air.
Resin parts can occasionally have a shiny surface from the casting process which can
interfere with paint sticking, so it's best to give the parts a gentle scrub with warm
water, detergent and a toothbrush, take extra care with thin or smaller parts.

2. Assembly Notes
DRY FITTING - We strongly recommend that at ALL stages of assembly, you test fit
the parts without glue first before adding glue and making the connection permanent.
Resin parts need to be glued to other resin parts with Super Glue, please take care to
avoid glueing the resin parts to your fingers, tools, desk etc.
Legs are supplied with textured tabs which fit exactly into the supplied slotta bases,
and should sit flush and almost disappear when painted, but you may wish to add sand,
filler or use alternative bases. The Peg on the waist joint fits Regiments torsos, but can
be clipped off and smoothed if you want to use the legs with other torsos.
Torsos fit on the waist peg and can be freely rotated to various angles.
Arms are the most difficult part of the assembly process. After deciding which arms to
use with a particular torso, follow these steps to ensure the best result -

1. Check the back of the weapon is smooth where it joins the stock, and fits cleanly
into the slot in the pistol grip hand. If it doesn't fit easily, you may need to remove
some material from the peg.
2. After checking the fit, glue the weapon into the pistol grip hand (usually the right
arm), ensuring it is correctly lined up with the stock (look from the front and
from the top.
3. IMPORTANT - Check the fit of the arm and weapon against the torso - Certain
combinations of arm and torso result in a not quite perfect fit - in these cases you
will need to remove material from the torso (where it is covered by the
arm/stock/weapon) until the arm fits flush with the side of the torso.
 4. Before further glueing, "dry fit" the right and left arms in place on the torso,
ensuring that the gun fits in the open hand (where applicable) and the open hand
arm is also flush with the torso.
5. After making any further adjustments to the torso/arms, glue first the pistol grip
arm and then the open hand arm to the torso.

Shoulder pads are supplied on a sprue which uses one piece casting - this means there
are guaranteed to be no mould line at all on the pad itself. They are attached to their
"tree" with a wide but very thin section of resin. It's best to clip the tree into pairs, then
when you are ready to attach a pair of pads, carefully clip the thin resin gate away from
both ends and then file or sand the inner surface of the pad flat, leaving a flawless part
Depending on the arm and pose, you may find the pads do not sit quite right, and you
need to remove some material from the top of the arm (where it will be hidden under
the pad) before glueing it on. The best way to connect a shoulder pad is with a small
blob of milliput, which acts as both gap filler and glue in one.
Heads should fit nicely into the torso ball joint, if you ensure the bottom of the neck
has had the resin 'gate' removed fully. A range of head poses are possible as standard,
but you can shave small amounts of resin from the neck area or side of the chin to
allow some more angled poses.
Equipment, such as mags, pouches and weapon accessories can be attached.

Gap Filling - Modular Kits, even with the most careful assembly, will occasionally have
small gaps where parts are joined together. They will often disappear on painting, but
if you have the time and want the best results, you can use green stuff, milliput or a
similar filler to fill small gaps.

3. Undercoating
Once your miniatures are ready for painting, we recommend either undercoating with
a quality undercoat spray, you can also undercoat using an airbrush, if you have made
sure the resin is clean. we recommend you don't undercoat resin miniatures by hand,
though it is possible.

4. Paint your miniatures, and send us some photos so we can admire your work!