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Hunted and Collected

Spring/Summer 2010 Selection


Issue 1
HUNTED
AND COLLECTED
Spring/Summer 2010 Selection

Aude Gribomont and Niels Radtke


Introduction
By Aude Gribomont and Niels Radtke
Founders of Hunting and Collecting

Hunting and Collecting opened its doors on the 27th of february


2010 on rue des Chartreux 17, in Brussels, Belgium. Our aim
is to bring emerging culture: fashion, design, art and lifestyle to
the heart of the city. We have been hunting and collecting de-
signers and artists from all over the world, curating what in our
eyes is relevant in independant creative expression today. Each
season, spring/summer and fall/winter, we will be exploring new
territory and we will publish a journal, with a small selection of
what we have featured in store and on our website.

Hunted and Collected #1 is the first edition of a series of books,


accompanied by an exhibition, a poster and other material to
keep an archive of what we collect each season.
Today’s world is fast moving and forever changing; media
constantly broadcasts about new releases and designers keep
creating wonderful products and amazing collaborations. We
cannot contain it all, but we can do our best to reflect our taste
and vision in regards to global creativity.

We aim for ‘Hunted and Collected’ to become a collectible item,


one which will become more important over the years, a book
we can look back on and experience what is timeless and what
is innovative.

7-
- Store View - - Store View -

- Press Corner - - Kids Corner -

HUNTING AND COLLECTING


Brussels Store

open from
tuesday to sunday
12pm till 8pm

17 Rue des Chartreux


1000 Brussels
Belgium

+32 2 512 74 77
www.huntingandcollecting.com

- Accessories -
-8
- Shoe Corner and Fitting Rooms -

- Project Room -

- Window Display -
9-
01. Forword
By Adam Bryce

Fashion becomes its own sub-culture We're in the midst of an


exciting time in fashion. The past has seen certain era's dic-
tated by popular culture and its sub cultures, but the current
era we live in is seemingly moving in a new way. The internet
has changed the way media works, in particular how it rea-
ches people, this has led to a loss of localization in trends,
and also led to quicker transitions of these trends. We look
now towards timeless classics off the back of the fact that the
speed of trends move too fast to be sustainable. Menswear in
particular has seen a recent and obvious movement towards
classic and simple tailoring. Yohji Yamamoto, in explanation of is
excessive use of black, stated that a well dressed man should
never stand out in a crowd. The recent movement towards ti-
meless basics and subtle undertones in the way men dress,
could be seen as resulting in a better dressed man for the new
century. Whilst the simplistic silhouette and traditional approach
to fashion isn't unique to menswear, its most notable in the way
men dress I believe.

-10
http://www.slamxhype.com/

This isn't to say there isn't an innovative approach to design,


it merely means its more considered, have we in fact reached
the next level where designers are confident enough in their
own ability to keep the tricks hidden and design specifically with
function and style in mind? A more timeless approach to fashion
has however left the severe impact of sub cultures behind in its
wake, we're no longer as likely to dress for our surrounding
culture, sub cultures are each now more closely linked in terms
of the way they dress, you're no longer as easily recognized or
categorized for the way you dress, its as if the affect has led
to, or been a result of a more understanding acceptance of the
way people dress. This phenomenon continues to thrive off
the back of the fact that fashion is more accessible than ever,
whether that be through the broader distribution of media, or
through brands creating lower price point labels, or even dispo-
sable brands like Uniqlo thriving off the back of smart marketing.
Fashion has become universal and is thriving in a consumer
driven culture.

11-
02. Forword
By Elena Loginova

Understanding the fashion isn’t of local concern anymore! Have


you got a list of your favourite blogs figured? Susie, Yvan, Scott,
Diane?* Mine is everlong… Now what?

We’ve gone such a long way since 2006 when at the rise of
fashion blogging the aforementioned names stood at its front-
line, and as of today still hold the most respected point of view.
I may now bow to them in gratefulness for inspiration.

Yet to each effect there is a cause, and to each blog there is a


desire to express oneself through fashion writing and imagery,
thus creating an atmosphere, a certain spectre of one’s likes
and preferences that may reflect upon the current situation in
the fashion industry and its consumption by the ordinary folk
– the ubiquitous outfit posts and numerous DIY projects have
since long become our habitual tools of self expression, and the
interactive approach has come to replace the one-sided point
of view of the editorials – now anyone can stand at the frontline
(…or the front row) to report the newest trend at the very birth of
it…but let’s move further! –

-12
http://origamimonami.blogspot.com/

– The constant chase for the novelties in fashion is driven by


the search for beauty and the scale of such quest spread far
and wide, from mundane and domestic objects to the idolised
characters depicted in the streetstyle shots. The endless cu-
riosity leads me to daily researches on brands, designers and
general inspiration images, all destined to become…no, not a
next obsession, but a catalogue of world’s knowledge, neatly
arranged in a chronological order. This catalogue so to say, is
meant to be as informative as it is inspirational for others, be-
cause there are still very few people in the fashion niche (right,
we’re talking Brussels here) who dare to look out for the new
ways of self expression through their personal style.

Like it or not, we are experiencing more and more brands that


work in editions and not seasons, or designers that equally
create within the fields of performance art and music. So why
not bravely step into the new era of retail and have boutiques
that act as cultural hubs for young creatives? We should not be
afraid to take that step since we are no longer on a narrow and
steep path of the 2006 – we are on broad way in a constant
hunt for beauty.

*must be chanted to The Chap’s tune of ‘Carlos, Walter, Wendy, Stanley’

13-
03. Forword
By Stijn Verlinden

Belgians are notorious collectors. Whether it is art, stamps or


figurines. Every Belgian household has at least one mantelpiece
or glass case filled with collectibles. Can it be a subconscious
twirl from the ancient times where the homo sapiens spend
his day collecting plants and hunting animals to foresee in their
basic needs? Is it nowadays still a basic need for Belgians?
I’m not an anthropologist but what I do know that Belgians like
beautiful things. Albert Einstein once said, “The pursuit of truth
and beauty is a sphere of activity in which we are permitted to
remain children all our lives.”

-14
http://www.ilovebelgium.be

Looking at Hunting & Collecting SS10 men’s collections defini-


tely makes me feel like a child. Fearless, free-spirited and a little
naïve. Tailored jackets combined with shorts to be found in the
collections of Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair and Band of Outsiders
remind me of –at that time– hated school uniforms but are defi-
nitely a must-have combo.

The retro jeans trend, beautifully displayed by Patrik Ervell feels


tough but is softened with a joyful colour palette of pastels and
patterns showcased by PAM, Anntian and Peter Jensen. Next
to beautiful tailoring Jensen also sniffed a lot of sea air resulting
in sailor shirts. Combine these with PAM’s denim sweatpants
and some Cosmic Wonder Light Source boat shoes and you’ll
definitely be a member of the crew.

Summer will be chic and gracious but not stiff. Sporty style in-
jections from American college wear and formal sneakers by
Common Projects makes the male summer silhouette boyish
and fresh.

15-
-16
Hunted
and
collected

Women
Spring / Summer Selection
2010

18. 20. 22. 24.


Anntian Carin Wester Cosmic Wonder El Delgado Buil
2005, BERLIN (DE) 2003, STOCKHOLM (SE) 1999, Osaka (Jp) 2004, Barcelona (ES)

26. 28. 30. 32.


gemma degara Lungta de Fancy Martin Lamothe Minimarket
2003, Barcelona (ES) 2006, LONDON (UK) 2006, Barcelona (ES) 2006, STOCKHOLM (SE)

34. 36. 38. 40.


Natascha Stolle Opening ceremony Slow and steady Stine Goya
2003, London (UK) 2001, New York (US) wins the race 2006, COPENHAGEN (DK)
2006, COPENHAGEN (DK) 

42. 44. 46.


SUPERFINE VON SONO Wackerhaus
2003, LONDON (UK) 2004, LONDON (UK) 2003, COPENHAGEN (DK)

17-
Anntian
2005, BERLIN (DE)
Anne Hilken (graphic designer)
Christian Kurt (fashion designer)

Biography
The first collection was the SS07 collection. Since then, pre-
sentations of the collections are shown twice a year during Ber-
lin, Paris and Tokyo fashionweek. The decision to built up a
fashion label was rather spontanious, than highly reflected or
well planned in terms of business, all was based on a feeling
they had at that time.

Style
Anne, as a Graphic Designer deals within the areas of printing,
artworking, colours, fabrics etc. Christian as a fashion designer
is in charge of pattern making, prototypes, product develop-
ment. The design process happens within the both of them...
The keywords are : clear, reduced and simplified, rather than
decorated, complex in detail, importance of quality (fabrics, ma-
nufacturing etc.), haptics and individuality of each garment. Gra-
phics/Colors are handpainted or handprinted by Anntian, which
makes every piece unique and «abnormal». Of great importance
for Anntian is the closeness to the product, and it’s regional ma-
nufacturers (with small, local Manufacturers, all located in Ger-
many mostly in and around Berlin), so as the increasing usage
of ecological fabrics and materials. Origin of the used fabrics
and Yarns is mostly Germany, Italy and France. The clothes are
full of hidden details, conceptual authorised, differing and indi-
vidual. In their collections they’re trying to create an entire vision
and mood, within a transfer to the «Interieur», Furniture, etc.

Website www.anntian.de
Womenswear / Menswear / Accessories / Jewellery
-18
The Phase collection is a dialogue of flowing and demanding,
geometric formes. There is the aim of describing certain con-
ditions of basic formes which are undefined. Depending on
material, perspective, context, etc. they are never terminated.
Making use of triangles, circles, rectangles and squares in a
creative workprocess means to torture them in a positive way.
The sophisticated, diverse surfaces within the collection are
mostly inspired by light reflections.

19-
Carin wester
2003, STOCKHOLM (SE)
Carin Wester (fashion designer)

Biography
In 1998, Carin Wester graduated from Beckmans College of
Design where she studied Fashion. After graduation she star-
ted working as a designer for Paul & Friends. She designed
their female collection for eight seasons, until she started her
own brand: “Carin Wester” in 2003. Since the launch of her
own brand, Carin has been nominated for Nöjesguidens fashion
award (2004) and achieved the prize as newcomer of the year
by Elle (2004) for her design. Carin Wester was also nominated
as the Designer of the year by Elle (2005) and she was no-
minated by Ernst & Young as Entrepreneur of the year 2008.
Today, her collection consists of a female line (Carin Wester)
and a male line (Wester). The collections are sold in several
stores in Sweden, as well as in stores in Denmark, Finland,
Norway, England, Germany, France, USA, Canada and Japan
like Weekday in Stockholm and Gothenburg, Behave in London,
Opening Ceremony in New York and Los Angeles and Hunting
and Collecting in Brussels.

Style
Playful, feminine and enchanting, her collections are getting
more magnetic to the international fashion audience with every
season. Carin Wester transforms her vintage inspired universe
in clothing of quality, wearable by all. The cuts are simple, but
always present a rock’n’roll touch and a structured romantic
nonchalant look.

« Having met loreli » collection


The collection is named «Having met Loreli» after a story about
a couple with very individual looks. Hence the different angles
of the collection. Rough and masculine yet soft and feminine.

Website: www.carinwester.com
Womenswear / Menswear /

-20
The collection was inspired by a lonely artist who is travelling
in Rio where he meets and instantly falls in love with a Frida
Kahlo looking favela girl. The women’s line has different kinds of
power attributes from the 80’s amazon women like high waist
secretary skirt. Moreover, the feminine line encounters different
structures like mixed pleated jersey, crepe silk and shiny tape
knits. The classic trench coat has this time been added as a
unisex garment with oversized shape and removable sleeves
for different kind of weariness. The colors in the collection are
black and skin mixed with shades of white, moss green, sky
and different shades of mist. The highlight colors are bright red
and intense indigo.

21-
Cosmic Wonder
1999, Osaka (JP)
Yukinori Maeda (fashion designer)

Biography
Japanese designer Yukinori Maeda studied architecture in
Kyoto before moving to Osaka, Japan. He decided that clothes
are the most intimate habitat in which people reside day in day
out, and so he founded Cosmic Wonder in 1999.
Japanese phenomenon Cosmic Wonder has been enjoying in-
ternational cult status since it’s debut presentation at the Centre
Pompidou during Paris Fashion Week in 2000. The wonder-
ful aesthetic universe of founder and mystic force behind this
fashion/art label Yukinori Maeda is still expanding. Since 2007
the Cosmic Wonder stem cell split in three separate entities;
the fashion cell is now called «Cosmic Wonder Light Source»,
«Cosmic Wonder» is the bastion of performances, installations
and other fashion alien presentation forms by which Yukinori
Maeda and friends will keep on enchanting our world and «Yu-
kinori Maeda» for all other artistic pursuits. He choose the raw
unpretentious harbour city Osaka over hip and hectic Tokyo, so
he could focus on building a solid fundament for his ‘fashion
house’ without being distracted by ruling trends like manga and
recycled pop culture. Cosmic Wonder made unforgettable im-
pact with garment like objects that serve as decor pieces for
their absurd, serene and utterly aesthetic performances.
The launch of the new trinity Cosmic Wonder, Cosmic Wonder
Light Source and Yukinori Maeda was celebrated with Cosmic
Wonder Free Press 1 in 2007; the first edition of a series of pu-
blications in collaboration with Swiss cult publisher Nieves. Free
refers to its freedom of form and content.

Website: www.cosmicwonder.com
Womenwear / Menswear /
-22
Cosmic Wonder Light Source’s concept is to “dress with light
and, in doing so, provide an environmental effect.” Maeda’s
fascination with mysticism and enlightenment pervade the col-
lection; natural, spiritual and environmental influences are clear.
Playing with voluminous silhouettes and androgynous looks are
also trademarks of the collection. Cosmic Wonder sets itself
apart from the fast and fashionable culture of Maeda’s Japa-
nese generation in every little detail; by meditative quietness
and revealing content, by a deeply rooted, typical Japanese
and indefinable sense of aesthetics, however experimental,
and by sublime concentration.

23-
EL DELGADO BUIL
2004, Barcelona (ES)
Anna Figuera Delgado (fashion designer)
Macarena Ramos Buil (fashion designer)

Biography
El Delgado Buil is a creative duet developed by Anna Figuera
Delgado and Macarena Ramos Buil. In July 2004, once they had
already finished their studies at the Superior School of Design,
they create El Delgado Buil with the first objective of creating
clothes for men. However, due to the originality of their designs
nowadays they design clothes useful both for men and women.
In February 2007, with the autumn/winter collection 07 My fa-
mily Goes to Oklahoma, they win the L’Oreal Award for the best
young designer’s collection. During the same dates both desi-
gners start to combine their work as designers with creative clas-
ses that they start giving at the Superior School of Design (ESDI),
Ramon Llull University. In September 2007 in «Cibeles», they win
again the L’Oreal Award with the spring/summer collection 08
Dreamland. In November 2007, El Delgado Buil wins the Great
Prix from Marie Claire magazine as the best young designer.

Style
Their designs respond to a clear definition. The sportive clothes
stands from the rest, carefully manufactured and with delicate
endings. Several icons inspire their creations. Both designers
share their admiration for the photography of Paco and Manolo,
Juergen Teller, Diane Arbus; the aesthetic universe of John Wa-
ters or Miranda July and the rock’n’roll from the Ramones and
The Clash.

« Majorette » collection
The majorette collection is inspired by the romantic, feminine
details and movements of the traditional aesthetic of the girls
that practice the twirling. Soft and delicate powdered colours
accompain the frills, the stars and little hearts all over a fresh
a creative collection made with marine lines, leathers and soft
glossy transparent fabrics.

Website: www.eldelgadobuil.com/
Womenswear / Menswear /
-24
Popular Belgian bag and accessories brand Kipling has cho-
sen El Delgado Buil to design a capsule collection. The initiative
is the result of series of temporary alliances with young fashion
talent with which Kipling aims to gives its collections at uncon-
ventional twist. After an initial project with Belgian designers last
year, Kipling has now succumbed to the spontaneous original-
ity of El Delgado Buil. The Kipling by El Delgado Buil collection
was presented at the springsummer 2010 catwalk at Cibeles
Madrid Fashion Week. In keeping with the inspiration for their
summer collection Majorettes, Anna and Macarena have de-
signed six bags and three accessories, using their trademark
fur, print and fringe details.

25-
Gemma Degara
2003, Barcelona (ES)
Gemma Degara (fashion designer)

Style
Gemma Degara is known for her 180 degrees clothes: clothes
from which you can choose what side is the front and allow you
to interpret the same garment in different ways. She has hit the
streets with her unique style. All designs are created to be both
functional and comfortable with a wide array of colors to choose
from. Dresses and more formal shirts are created just as works
of architecture; with lengthened backs and unique shapes. It’s
clear that Gemma tags each piece with that signature flair.

« Reversie » collection
«Reversie» is inspired on the photos that Alfons Mucha took
of his Muses for realizing afterwards his illustrations. Soft co-
lours and light materials explore the sensuality of the women.
Each piece is unique, dyes glide over the fabric reveiling a wa-
ter effect. No garment has the exact same color because of
the handmade tintage method. The accessories collection is
complemented with molded flowers in relief.

Website: www.gemmadegara.com
Womenswear /

-26
Gemma Degara was born in Barcelona. She is characterized
for working in versatile collections where functionality and com-
fort are the real protagonists. She is awarded « Best Emergent
Designer » of the ModaFAD awards that gives her the oppor-
tunity of participate of the Barcelon Fashion week. After several
collections, works and collaborations with other companies
devoted in the design Gemma Degara has taken part in the
Ego de la Pasarela de Cibeles with her « entre sirenas y medu-
sas », and, « Caida libre » collections.

27-
Lungta de fancy
2006, LONDON (UK)
Lungta de Fancy (fashion designer)

Biography
When Lungta De Fancy arrived in Central London’s Carnaby
Street in 2003, it was clear that this all-girl design team was
a new generation of highly creative and dynamic designers.
Lungta de Fancy’s sophisticated tailoring and choice of fabrics
quickly gathered a reputation and an ultra feminine, fresh and ti-
meless designer label was established. Lungta de Fancy’s outs-
tanding tailoring techniques have been stylishly used to create
the perfect silhouette of the beauty in the female shape. A year
after opening their first shop, Lungta de Fancy started their line
of shoes and after year, an accessories line was added. Ex-
perimenting with unique fabrics and using exclusive materials
the pieces were never exactly the same. The individuality of the
accessory pieces drew a lot of attention to the label, reports in
Vogue added another burst of interest and Lungta De Fancy
became ever more popular with the likes of Harvey Nichols and
Michelle Young. By February 2006, Lungta De Fancy launched
a ready-to-wear collection and within six months of production
the first Couture collection followed.

Spring/summer 2010 collection


Cocktail, ruffled and draped dresses or distinguished jumpsuits,
the collection borrows pastels tones like light grey, powder pink,
skyblue or beige for a romantic and feminine look. Studied cuts
which become rock’n’roll while carrying them with boots or sexy
with escarpins.

Website: www.lungtadefancy.com
Womenswear /

-28
LUNGTAdeFANCY is derived from the mythical symbol of be-
ing carried to heaven. This spiritual beauty is visually reflected
through each collection by the use of soft drapery tailoring tech-
niques and luxurious fabrics.The signature combines Eastern
creativity and European tailoring which emphasises a special
sense of sensuality and elegance. Featured as one of the best
new women’s wear designer label in London, Paris and New
York, Lungta de Fancy perfectly imbues the modern spirit of
femininity, purity and joy. The brand is stocked in the UK, Eu-
rope, Asia, Australia, US and Canada, including trendy Start
Boutique in London, H. Lorenzo in Los Angeles and Hunt-
ing and Collecting in Brussels. She has attracted style icons
of today. Kate Moss, Kylie Minogue, Michelle Yang and Keira
Knightley are all admirers of the effortlessly chic look.

29-
Martin lamothe
2006, BARCELONA (ES)
Elena Martin (fashion designer)

Biography
Fashion and architecture inclined since her childhood, Elena
Martin graduated from Barcelonas most eminent fashion scho-
ol ATM and she was honoured First Class from Southampton
Art School. She also studied Arts History at the University in
Barcelona. As a 20 year old, Elena’s talent guided her to be
the youngest student ever accepted at the prestigious Cen-
tral Saint Martins College, where she was graduated in Masters
Womenswear. There, she developed her intrest in structures
and graphics.

Style
Martin Lamothe’s style is based on the creation of a hole origi-
nal imaginarium of graphics and shapes. the mixture between
romanticism and vanguard, between the concept and the vi-
sions projected to have its place in the fashion scene through
art, music and fashion.

« cruiser » collection
Cruiser Collection, the in-between season approach to the love
of travelling. Its itself a blink to the Resort collections concept,
owned exclusively until now by the Haute Couture Houses. The
new Martin Lamothe collection refers to tourism. The colour of
the collection is mainly into the navy mood, based in cream as
a main background colour: as it is the colour of ropes, fancy-
nes, and blurred memories. The navy is the cruiser black, and
this is mixed in colour blocks, with crème, red and yellow. The
materials are resined and waxed silk crepe and cotton oute-
rwear, surrounded by shaped and washed leather, the printed
and washed wool cotton and galvanized silk chiffon. The sculp-
tured leather follows the path started in last collection FW10. In
this one, leather captures the ropes from port and nautical life
to bring strength to a cocktail dress collection.

Website: www.martinlamothe.es
Womenswear / Menswear /
-30
Soon her first student collection was page on editorials as im-
portant as Self Service and International Textiles. While finishing
her studies she did stages with Robert Cary Williams, Alex-
ander Mc Queen, amongst others. Straight from college she
went to work for Markus Constable, and RL, only to discover
that she was determined to experience the other branches of
fashion, that London offers easily, before diving into the studio
life. So, she expanded her experience by joining Mr Jones
to work as stylist for music personalities and artists such as
Kylie Minogue and Howie B, Death in Vegas through Polygram
records. Moreover, Elena went further and joined experimental
theatre and cinema from the renounced London East & West
scene by creating costume design.

31-
Minimarket
2006, STOCKHOLM (SE)
Sofie Elvestedt (fashion designer)
Pernilla Elvestedt (fashion designer)
Jennifer Elvestedt (fashion designer)

Biography
Minimarket is a swedish clothing label designed by sisters
Sofie, Pernilla and Jennifer Elvestedt. The brand has been a
women’s wear label since 2006. Today, the line has extended
from clothing only to include accessories with focus on shoes.
Last fall, Minimarket launched the diffusion label mini for many.
Minimarket was awarded «best new designer of the year», by
swedish Elle in 2007. The sisters Elvestedt designed a capsule
collection for the museum of modern art in Stockholm.

Style
The keywords to resume the style of Minimarket: Masculine
influence, sexy but not obvious sexy: sophisticated sexiness
combined with a portion of humour. Happy and cheeky, rather
than pretentious.

Website: www.minimarket.se/
Womenswear /
-32
A theme trip taking us from outer space to the bizarre world
under water. The SS10 collection is an aquarium, built in typi-
cal Minimarket manner: colourful, cartoonlike and personal in
its shape. The shell, the manta ray and the sting ray are strong
influences, whose spirits you can see all through the collection.
The colour range goes in apricot, mint, coral and greige and
the fabrics used by Minimarket is overall feminine fabrics, such
as crepe and silk. Even the suit of the season, an oversized
”businessman” style, is made in crepe. Several of the fabrics
used are of Minimarket´s own design.

33-
Natascha Stolle
2003, London (UK)
Natascha Stolle (fashion designer)

Biography
Natascha Stolle studied English literature before turning to
Fashion. She came to London in 1999 and worked for Peter
Jensen for ten seasons. She graduated from the Central Saint
Martins MA before showing with Fashion East for two seasons.
Natascha has also designed two capsule collections for ASOS.
Half German, a quarter Italian and a quarter Japanese, Natas-
cha Stolle is as odd a mix as the fashion influences she absor-
bed as a kid. Growing up in Hawaii and Virginia, Stolle’s style is
a compelling mix of slouchy separates, backwoods Appalachia
Americana, and the glamour of her mother’s Honolulu wardrobe.
Her witty approach to textiles, funny accessories and fluid tailo-
ring come directly form her own first experiments in dressing
which continue to inspire her signature mix of aspirational luxury
with a teenage sexuality.

Website: www.nataschastolle.com
Womenswear /

-34
Despite her fascination with all things adolescent, Natascha
Stolle is a grown-up designer with a commitment to wearability.
If the Stolle woman is anything like her wardrobe, she’s inde-
pendent-minded, stylish, fun and laid back, a bit dorky, slouchy
tailoring but effortlessly stylish- and totally going out tonight.

35-
Opening Ceremony
2002, New York (US)
Humberto Leon (fashion designer)
Carol Lim (fashion designer)

Biography
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon are co-founders of the fashion
label Opening Ceremony. Leon and Lim are former luxury retail
executives who met as students at the University of California,
Berkeley in 1993. In 2002, they opened their store in Manhat-
tan. Since, they have now outposts in LA and Tokyo. Nowa-
days, Opening Ceremony is a multifaceted environment com-
prised of retail spaces, showroom, and gallery that establishes
a new international creative forum in downtown Manhattan. Ta-
king their cue from the Olympics, the duo add designers from
a new country each year to the rails of US talent. Like a high-
fashion version of a cultural-exchange program, Opening Cere-
mony features fashions from a different country each year, with
Brazil, Germany, France and the UK dominating recent racks.
To accomplish this, Carolin and Humberto, both expats from
the corporate fashion world, live a consumer’s dream: They go
to a new country and stay for a while to hang out and get the
vibe. Then, they shop. Before leaving, the duo typically buys
two seasons’ worth of collections from about ten designers,
making sure to pick one power player and the rest relative un-
knowns.

STYLE
Recognised for its innovative concept and design aesthetic, to-
day they have stores in Tokyo and in the US featuring a carefully
selected range of designers from around the world together
with their own label running in its seventh season.

Website: www. openingceremony.us


Womenswear / Menswear / Shoes /
-36
For their own collection, Opening Ceremony takes basic sil-
houettes and reinterprets them with interesting and unexpect-
ed details. In 2007, the concept was expanded to a cool col-
lection of mens and womens footwear. They are also famous
for their collaborations and capsule collections with amongst
other Chloé Sevigny, Spike Jonze, Uniqlo, Timberlands, Keds,
Levi’s, Pendelton…

37-
Stine goya
2006, COPENHAGEN (DK)
Stine Goya (fashion designer)

Biography
Stine Goya followed a diverse career in fashion, modelling for
Karl lagerfeld and Chanel, and styling for, amongst others,
American Harper’s Bazar and Vogue. She was graduated from
Central Saint Martins college of Art in london in 2005, speciali-
sing in fashion with print. During the course of her studies, she
spent time under the tutelage of cutting edge designers: Eley
kishimoto, Hussein Chalayan and Jonathan Saunders, each of
which have influencd her work, in their mastery of colour, form
and prints. After graduation, she joined the Danish magazine,
Cover, as fashion editor for a year. The diversity of her expe-
rience in the industry greatly inspires her approach of fashion
through an understanding of it’s many facets. From the artistic
presentation of the catwalk to the functional nature of clothing in
their everyday use, it is Stine Goya’s aim to create pieces which
exhibit strength no matter the arena in which they perform.

Style
The clean-cut lines found in form are accentuated in a bold use
of colour. Strong colours are juxtaposed to more subtle nuan-
ces in a manner, which inclines toward the artistic. The striking
prints are a central characteristic of Stine Goya. They will often
refer to dominant sources of inspiration in addition to capturing
the dominant tone of a collection. They are a manifestation of
the essence of Stine Goya: Beauty. Drama. Colour.

« bulles d’été » Spring Summer 2010


The collection seeks to encapture an air of untroubled deca-
dence, referencing the latent atmosphere prevalent among the
youth of the upper class in the leisurely costal retreats of The
Hamptons. Beach promenades, frivolous enjoyment of life, sen-
suality and a renunciation of earlier generations solemnity and
strict morals have inspired a collection which dedicates itself to
dreams and artistry.

Website: www.stinegoya.com
Womenswear /
-38
Founded in Copenhagen in 2006 by the deigner of the same
name, Stine Goya’s ambition is to break with the dominating
monochromatic spectre of brands by reintroducing vibrant col-
our and sculptural form into the circuit of functional high fashion.
The debut, Konfetti, was presented at the Copenhagen fash-
ion week in february of 2007, sparking profound interest for an
upcoming designer with an agenda to influence scandinavian
design. Since then, Stine Goya has experienced widespread
acclaim in the industry for her particular and yet talent use of
vibrant hues and aptitude for creating attypical silhouettes wich
compliment the female form.

39-
Superfine
2003, London (UK)
Lucy Pinter (fashion designer)
Flora Evans (fashion designer)

Biography
Established in 2003 by Lucy Pinter and Flora Evans, Superfine
is one of the pioneers of the skinny jean silhouette, they quickly
gathered a dedicated following around the world.

Style
Superfine is an innovative style leader making rock and roll jeans
with a London attitude. A bit punk, a bit purist, the label has led
the way with clean looking denim, free from branding and em-
bellishment. All the time embracing denim’s effortlessness, the
focus has been fit and fabric whilst keeping the details hidden.
Superfine has stayed stylish in its simplicity whilst always explo-
ring innovative new denim treatments which have been key to
the evolution of the label.

website: www.superfinelondon.com/
Jeanswear /

-40
For SS10, Superfine channels the elegant decay of old rock
legends and mixes with luxe fabrics and new treatments to
ramp up strong silhouettes where details are key. The starting
point for the collection is Keith Richards: the original, irrever-
ent, Brit pirate anarchist, Flying under no flag. The Union Jack
is ripped down and reinvented as washed silk garments and
graphic detailing. Edges are left raw, reminiscent of an old flag.
Girls stay sexy in this season’s Super-Stretch fabric. Featured
in Swril and Mixed Swirl jeans. Mixed-in with elastic it creates
the Chili, the designer thinks is the greatest pair of pants she
ever made. The Bandage section also features the Wrap jean
for a forward fashion twist.

41-
Von Sono
2004, London (UK)
Stephanie Oberg (fashion designer)

Biography
Stephanie Oberg was born in Munich, Germany and grew up in
the country side. She studied in Hamburg, graduated in 1999
and lived and worked in Hamburg and Berlin as a freelance
designer and stylist before starting Von Sono collection conti-
nously in 2004. Since 5 years she lives and works in London.
Between 1999 and 2003, she was assistant and freelance de-
signer for Kostas Murkudis, Closed, Bless and Cacharel, and
launched don’t, a group project. don’t created products used
in every day life, jewellery, shoes, clothes, etc. produced in a
series of limited editions, exhibited at: Fanclub Amsterdam, Por-
tikus Frankfurt, Hinterconti Hamburg, etc. In the meantime, she
founded in 2001 her Von Sono project with donkey blankets,
hand embroidered and appliqué duvet covers. The project be-
came more important and becomes Von Sono in 2004.

Spring/Summer 2010 Collection


Von Sono decided to change concept for the future. There will
be still a collection each season but it will be different from now
on. The collection is smaller, more compact, pieces are more
special and crafted. Von Sono work is more on the actual pie-
ces than the outfits, treating each garment as a product in its
own. The collection will be limited to 20 products including ac-
cessories. A collection to be collected not to be exchanged
each season. The designer wants to keep the timeless feel to
the collection and the image of something found, seen with
a modern eye. The essential pieces are the most important
pieces to this collection, like a personal wardrobe: oversized
sweatshirts, t-shirts and a classic pair of trousers and leggings.
A new version of a simple, daily garment of product.

Website: http://vonsono.de/
Womenswear /

-42
Von Sono always succeed in creating conceptual clothes that
anyone can wear. Her collections question scale, form and
gender. Delicate, billowing shapes with fascinating textural de-
tails characterize the brand. Stéphanie always works from a
shape, 2 dimensional drawing becomes 2 dimensional pattern
and then a 3D piece of clothing. She is interrested in which
shapes you can wear and what they become produced in
different fabrics/ textures, how the movements are changing,
how it hangs differenty on the body. She is interested in classic
tailoring and that is why she concentrates more on fabrics and
textures, trying to keep the shape classic and modern at the
same time.

43-
Wackerhaus
2003, Copenhagen (DK)
Trine Wackerhausen (fashion designer)

Biography
Wackerhaus was founded in 2003 by the young designer Trine
Wackerhausen, and the brand has since its debut on the Da-
nish fashion scene become a favorite with the style press and
fashion conscious follower. “To me fashion is art but it is also
important that my designs are wearable and practical of cour-
se with a strong dash of refined and feminine elegance”, says
Wackerhausen about her designs. The Wackerhaus look com-
bines a sharp tailored silhouette with lightweight materials and
carefully placed ruffles and this fascination of contrasts is an
ongoing theme in every Wackerhaus collection. Each season
this is shown with great creativity and quirky details. Despite
complementary materials and a versatile approach to silhuette,
Wackerhaus succeeds in delivering a clean cut and cohesive
look, which on one hand expresses a certain masculinity and
on the other a fragile and feminine side of contemporary wo-
men’s fashion.

« Lighten me up » collection
Unspoiled beach idyl in lovely Lazy-Town. In this heavenly place
life is light and easy until a dark storm reaches the shores. The
lovely women of Lazy-Town are soon caught in thunder and
lightning seduced by the chaos it brings. When the storm di-
sappears as sudden as it arrived, the women are trapped in
boredom mourning their loss of the wild stranger. On silent ni-
ghts you can still hear them whisper: Blow me away… Lighten
me up.

Website: www.wackerhaus.dk/
Womenswear /

-44
When asked to describe her signature style, Wackerhaus ex-
plains that her designs are not meant to be seasonal, but clas-
sic statements to be used across seasons. Her use of a dark
and subtle color palette fits perfectly with the idea of a timeless,
modest and flawless style, and is at the same time a lovely
canvas for colorful excesses. “My work is a delicate balance of
playful extravaganza, soft femininity and strict simplicity. I strive
towards making clothes that are both luxurious and comfort-
able”, says Wackerhausen. The result pleasing both the pre-
cise and classic minimalist as well as those into a more gentle
feminine allure.

45-
Hunted
and
collected

Men
Spring/Summer Selection
2010

48. 50. 52. 54.


Anntian BAnd of ousiders Carin Wester Cosmic Wonder
2005, BERLIN (DE) 2004, LOS ANGELES (US) 2003, STOCKHOLM (SE) 1999, Osaka (Jp)

56. 58. 60. 62.


El Delgado Buil Fifth avenue shoe Hope Perks and mini
2004, Barcelona (ES) repair 2002, STOCKHOLM (SE) 2000, AUSTRALIA (AU)
2004,STOCKHOLM (SE) 

64. 66. 68.


patrik ervell Petar petrov peter jensen
2005, New york (US) 2003, VIENNA (AT) 1999, London (UK)

47-
Anntian
2006, BERLIN (DE)
Anne Hilken (graphic designer)
Christian Kurt (fashion designer)

Biography
The first collection was the SS07 collection. Since then, pre-
sentations of the collections are shown twice a year during Ber-
lin, Paris and Tokyo fashionweek. The decision to built up a
fashion label was rather spontanious, than highly reflected or
well planned in terms of business, all was based on a feeling
they had at that time.

Style
Anne, as a Graphic Designer deals within the areas of printing,
artworking, colours, fabrics etc. Christian as a fashion designer
is in charge of pattern making, prototypes, product develop-
ment. The design process happens within the both of them...
The keywords are : clear, reduced and simplified, rather than
decorated, complex in detail, importance of quality (fabrics, ma-
nufacturing etc.), haptics and individuality of each garment. Gra-
phics/Colors are handpainted or handprinted by Anntian, which
makes every piece unique and «abnormal». Of great importance
for Anntian is the closeness to the product, and it’s regional ma-
nufacturers (with small, local Manufacturers, all located in Ger-
many mostly in and around Berlin), so as the increasing usage
of ecological fabrics and materials. Origin of the used fabrics
and Yarns is mostly Germany, Italy and France. The clothes are
full of hidden details, conceptual authorised, differing and indi-
vidual. In their collections they’re trying to create an entire vision
and mood, within a transfer to the «Interieur», Furniture, etc.

Website www.anntian.de
Womenswear / Menswear / Accessories / Jewellery

-48
The Phase collection is a dialogue of flowing and demanding,
geometric formes. There is the aim of describing certain con-
ditions of basic formes which are undefined. Depending on
material, perspective, context, etc. they are never terminated.
Making use of triangles, circles, rectangles and squares in a
creative workprocess means to torture them in a positive way.
The sophisticated, diverse surfaces within the collection are
mostly inspired by light reflections.

49-
Band of Outsiders
2004, LOS ANGELES (US)
Scott Sternberg (fashion designer)

Biography
Scott Sternberg founded Band of Outsiders (inspired by the
1964 french film «Bande à Part» of Jean-Luc Godart) in January
2004. Scott is a calm boy with preppy glasses (one mix of sty-
les old school and retro). He started by being a film agent in
Los Angeles, then designer for men, without having ever stu-
died anything on the subject before. The collections count fans
like Jason Schwartzman, Dennis Hopper, Moby, Beck, Kanye
West, Jose Garcia, Robert Downey Junior... And Boy by Band
of Outsiders, the women line, is supported by Michelle Williams,
Kim Gordon, Kirsten Dunst, Sarah Silverman... The collections
are sold in over 125 doors worldwide and are regulary in publi-
cations such as GQ, Vogue, New York Times amongst many
others.

Style
The Band of Outsiders brand is approached as a vessel for
an evergrowing archive of ideas and projects that draw from
a strong, personal sense of nostalgia for american menswear
classics (shirts, ties, jackets, knits, hand-tailored suits and oute-
rwear), balanced with a drive for innovation and quality in all of
their products.

Spring Summer 2010


The inspirations for this collection are images of Jacques Cous-
teau’s crew, some Ed Ruscha airbrush paintings, a malibu trailer
park in the 70’s, and a few other discordant elements for good
measure.

Website: www.bandofoutsiders.com
Menswear /

-50
The former Hollywood agent began with a minicollection by
re-cutting and re-contextualizing vintage and uniform fabrics to
create classic menswear with hand-tailored seams, thoughtful
retro details, shrunken proportions, fitted oxfords and blazers,
skinny ties, and using, Sternberg recalls, «whatever I could af-
ford without having to buy hundreds of meters of fabric.» Ron
Herman in L.A., Jeffrey in New York and Barneys subsequently
bought the collection. From there, the limited edition line has
grown to include an ever growing collection of suits and knit-
wear. Scott Sternberg has received two Council of fashion de-
signers of america awards in 2009, CFDA menswear designer
of the year and 2008 CFDA emerging menswear designer of
the year.

51-
Carin wester
2003, STOCKHOLM (SE)
Carin Wester (fashion designer)

Biography
In 1998, Carin Wester graduated from Beckmans College of
Design where she studied Fashion. After graduation she star-
ted working as a designer for Paul & Friends. She designed
their female collection for eight seasons, until she started her
own brand: “Carin Wester” in 2003. Since the launch of her
own brand, Carin has been nominated for Nöjesguidens fashion
award (2004) and achieved the prize as newcomer of the year
by Elle (2004) for her design. Carin Wester was also nominated
as the Designer of the year by Elle (2005) and she was nomina-
ted by Ernst & Young as Entrepreneur of the year 2008. Today,
her collection consists of a female line (Carin Wester) and a
male line (Wester). The collections are sold in several stores in
Sweden, as well as in stores in Denmark, Finland, Norway, En-
gland, Germany, France, USA, Canada and Japan like Weekday
in Stockholm and Gothenburg, Behave in London, Opening Ce-
remony in New York and Los Angeles and Hunting and Collec-
ting in Brussels.

Style
Playful, feminine and enchanting, her collections are getting
more magnetic to the international fashion audience with every
season. Carin Wester transforms her vintage inspired universe
in clothing of quality, wearable by all. The cuts are simple, but
always present a rock’n’roll touch and a structured romantic
nonchalant look.

« Having met loreli » collection


The collection is named “Having met Loreli” after a story about a
couple with very individual looks. Hence the different angles of
the collection. Rough and masculine yet soft and feminine.

Website: www.carinwester.com
Womenswear / Menswear /

-52
The collection was inspired by a lonely artist who is travelling
in Rio where he meets and instantly falls in love with a Frida
Kahlo looking favela girl. The women’s line has different kinds of
power attributes from the 80’s amazon women like high waist
secretary skirt. Moreover, the feminine line encounters different
structures like mixed pleated jersey, crepe silk and shiny tape
knits. The classic trench coat has this time been added as a
unisex garment with oversized shape and removable sleeves
for different kind of weariness. The colors in the collection are
black and skin mixed with shades of white, moss green, sky
and different shades of mist. The highlight colors are bright red
and intense indigo.

53-
Cosmic Wonder
1999, Osaka (JP)
Yukinori Maeda (fashion designer)

Biography
Japanese designer Yukinori Maeda studied architecture in
Kyoto before moving to Osaka, Japan. He decided that clothes
are the most intimate habitat in which people reside day in day
out, and so he founded Cosmic Wonder in 1999.
Japanese phenomenon Cosmic Wonder has been enjoying in-
ternational cult status since it’s debut presentation at the Centre
Pompidou during Paris Fashion Week in 2000. The wonder-
ful aesthetic universe of founder and mystic force behind this
fashion/art label Yukinori Maeda is still expanding. Since 2007
the Cosmic Wonder stem cell split in three separate entities;
the fashion cell is now called «Cosmic Wonder Light Source»,
«Cosmic Wonder» is the bastion of performances, installations
and other fashion alien presentation forms by which Yukinori
Maeda and friends will keep on enchanting our world and «Yu-
kinori Maeda» for all other artistic pursuits. He choose the raw
unpretentious harbour city Osaka over hip and hectic Tokyo, so
he could focus on building a solid fundament for his ‘fashion
house’ without being distracted by ruling trends like manga and
recycled pop culture. Cosmic Wonder made unforgettable im-
pact with garment like objects that serve as decor pieces for
their absurd, serene and utterly aesthetic performances.
The launch of the new trinity Cosmic Wonder, Cosmic Wonder
Light Source and Yukinori Maeda was celebrated with Cosmic
Wonder Free Press 1 in 2007; the first edition of a series of pu-
blications in collaboration with Swiss cult publisher Nieves. Free
refers to its freedom of form and content.

Website: www.cosmicwonder.com
Womenwear / Menswear /

-54
Cosmic Wonder Light Source’s concept is to “dress with light
and, in doing so, provide an environmental effect.” Maeda’s
fascination with mysticism and enlightenment pervade the col-
lection; natural, spiritual and environmental influences are clear.
Playing with voluminous silhouettes and androgynous looks are
also trademarks of the collection. Cosmic Wonder sets itself
apart from the fast and fashionable culture of Maeda’s Japa-
nese generation in every little detail; by meditative quietness
and revealing content, by a deeply rooted, typical Japanese
and indefinable sense of aesthetics, however experimental,
and by sublime concentration.

55-
EL DELGADO BUIL
2004, Barcelona (ES)
Anna Figuera Delgado (fashion designer)
Macarena Ramos Buil (fashion designer)

Biography
El Delgado Buil is a creative duet developed by Anna Figuera
Delgado and Macarena Ramos Buil. In July 2004, once they had
already finished their studies at the Superior School of Design,
they create El Delgado Buil with the first objective of creating
clothes for men. However, due to the originality of their designs
nowadays they design clothes useful both for men and women.
In February 2007, with the autumn/winter collection 07 My fa-
mily Goes to Oklahoma, they win the L’Oreal Award for the best
young designer’s collection. During the same dates both desi-
gners start to combine their work as designers with creative clas-
ses that they start giving at the Superior School of Design (ESDI),
Ramon Llull University. In September 2007 in “Cibeles”, they win
again the L’Oreal Award with the spring/summer collection 08
Dreamland. In November 2007, El Delgado Buil wins the Great
Prix from Marie Claire magazine as the best young designer.

Majorette collection
The majorette collection is inspired by the romantic, feminine de-
tails and movements of the traditional aesthetic of the girls that
practice the twirling. Soft and delicate powdered colours accom-
pain the frills, the stars and little hearts all over a fresh a creative
collection made with marine lines, leathers and soft glossy trans-
parent fabrics. A new original reinvented Majorette style for this
new spring-summer collection 2010.

Website: www.eldelgadobuil.com/
Womenswear / Menswear /

-56
Their designs respond to a clear definition. The sportive clothes
stands from the rest, carefully manufactured and with delicate
endings. Several icons inspire their creations. Both designers
share their admiration for the photography of Paco and Mano-
lo, Juergen Teller, Diane Arbus; the aesthetic universe of John
Waters or Miranda July and the rock’n’roll from the Ramones
and The Clash.

57-
Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair
2004, Stockholm (SE)
Astrid Olsson (fashion designer)
Lee Cotter (fashion designer)

Biography
Fifth avenue shoe repair was founded in 2004 by Astrid Olsson
and Lee Cotter, and started as a very delicate experiment in kni-
twear and jersey showing only ladies styles. It has now evolved
into a full ladies and men’s brand. Fifth Avenue is proudly pre-
sented in stores such as Selfridges in London, Barney’s in USA,
Galeries la Fayette in Berlin, IT in HongKong, Daily Projects in
South Korea, Supermarket in Amsterdam, Opening Ceremony
in NY and LA and many more. Astrid Olsson has a background
of patternmaking and sewing and a traditional tailors exam be-
fore taking her fashion design exam at Textile School of Fashion
in Borås, Sweden. Lee Cotter is self-taught in terms of design
and has his training through working as a buyer and freelance
designer for different men’s brands.

Style
Not a shoe repair, or a shoe collection, but a clothing line, Fifth
Avenue Shoe Repair is an integral member of the new wave of
minimalist Swedish design. Its namesake is a shoe repair shop
in London that caught the attention of designers Astrid Olsson
and Lee Cotter for its sense of old-world craftsmanship. FASR
attempts to bring the same workmanship to its clothes, which
offer a surrealistic take on menswear, cut for the feminine form:
Basic tanks have straps that appear to melt away; button plac-
kets show up upside-down. While it may sound complicated,
5ASR’s clothing is remarkably wearable, with ultra-soft fabrics
and silhouettes that make an instant statement. The inspiration
for the collections often comes through the same sources each
season: architecture, sculpture, and Cubism. «Our creative fo-
cus will always lie in draping technique where the silhouette
progresses through sculpting. In contrast, these advanced
shapes are combined with classic wear such as the old man’s
chino or the classic white shirt.»

Website: www.shoerepair.se
Womenswear / Menswear /

-58
Fifth avenue shoe repair Spring 2010 collection withholds two
contradicting themes. First: very down to earth, holding soft
colour tones and washed hand feel. By over-dyeing garments
in double weave linens, parachute poplins and cashmere jer-
seys their ambition has been to achieve a “close to earth” ex-
pression. They call this the human part of the collection. Sec-
ond: the complete opposite; a colourful fairytale landscape
with multiflower patterns and shapes without boundaries. With
extra everything they defy the minimalist and give you the maxi-
malist. A strong floral and eccentric palette of vibrant colours
constitute our surreal, beautiful and alien part of the collection.
This is the non human part of the collection. The two elements
co-exists in the same way flower and weed nurture from the
ground – needing each other to survive or to even exist.

59-
HOPe
2002, STOCKHOLM (SE)
Ann Ringstrand (fashion designer)
Stefan Söderberg (fashion designer)

Biography
Hope is a Swedish label created and run by the designers Ann
Ringstrand and Stefan Söderberg. Both Ann and Stefan have
solid experience with over fifteen years in the fashion industry.
Ann is educated at one of the top design schools in Sweden
and has during her career worked as Head Designer for a limi-
ted number of both national and international brands. Stefan
worked as Product Manager for companies like Levi Strauss
and Acne Jeans. After several years of friendship the duo deci-
ded to launch own label Hope. The first woman collection was
launched in Autumn 2002 and in Autumn 2005 a collection for
men was added. The first brand Shop opened in Stockholm in
2006, with a HOPE Shop in Copenhagen. Hope was the first
winner of the Nordic Design Award “Ginen” of IN Magazine in
2003. The Men’s Collection of 2005 was awarded the Café
Magazine Fashion Award for “Newcomer of the Year”. In 2007,
Hope was once again honored by Café Magazine as winner of
the Fashion Award main category ”Designer of the Year”. Hope
was also nominated for ”Designer of the Year 2007” by Swe-
dish Elle Magazine.

Spring/Summer 2010 Collection


The lifestyle of the intellectuals such as authors and artist from
the turnof the previous century is the founding inspiration for
the collection.Influenced by the bohemian and well dressed in a
historical context creates a romantic yet formal mood. Relaxed
“newspaper boy” blazer jackets are styled with waistcoats and
crinkled shirting. Soft off white and nude pink shades are pre-
sent along with the base of black, grey and dark blue. Elements
of indigo blue sourced from the Japanese tradition is mixed into
the colour scheme as well as a dash of washed out red.

Website: www.hope-sthlm.com
Menswear /

-60
Hope’s signature style is low key, clean, raw and authentic with
ingenious and high quality details. The design stems from a
masculine platform and inspiration derives from classic men’s
wear and vintage uniforms. Innovated traditional fabrics with
subtle structures and patterns are sourced to attain a unique
and exclusive feeling. The collections are designed in an untra-
ditional manner where each garment is created to stand on its
own as a unique piece, rather than being matched according
to seasonal themes or colour cards. The collections feature a
limited number of garments and are designed with great atten-
tion and creative freedom to guarantee top of the line quality
and exquisite detailing.

61-
Patrik ervell
2005, New York (US)
Patrik Ervell (fashion designer)

Biography
A graduate of UC Berkeley in Political Science, Patrik Ervell star-
ted his eponymous label in 2005 The Swedish-born Ervell got
a political science degree from UC Berkeley and fell into design
after working as an editor at V magazine. His aesthetic is mini-
mal, and involves creative use of utilitarian materials—think pa-
rachute fabric and solar-blanket fibers. In 2007, the year of his
first runway show, Ervell won a $25,000 Ecco Domani Fashion
Foundation Award.

Style
Ervell’s designs focus on minimal, carefully tailored American
sportswear, with luxurious touches. Austere, minimalist staples
for downtown types. Futurism and technology is a prevailing
theme; the label is known for its use of technical fabrics and
utilitarian materials like gold emergency blankets or silicon-coa-
ted parachute fabric. With Patrik Ervell there is always a sense
of clean cut minimalism showcased in his simple lines and im-
peccably sharp tailoring but here he fused his signature with an
unexpected mix of fabrics and a extraordinary sense of details
and perfect finishes.

Website: www.patrikervell.com
Menswear /

-62
“The idea Ervell wanted to convey was another facet of the
Americanness he has always explored in his work rusting build-
ings, railways, traces left by pioneers who’ve come before. It
was a spectacularly visual effect. From a distance, oxidized
jackets looked almost like crushed velvet. One showpiece
had the metal woven into the cloth, which created a shimmer-
ing patina of age. Washing had a similar effect on chambray
shirts and jackets, making them seem like they’d been faded in
the California desert, where the Clarks Wallabees worn by the
models would be appropriate footwear. Ervell studded a cou-
ple pairs with rusty staples, so they too had an oxidized look.
Backstage, he insisted that the shoes had been equipped
with a protective lining even for an indie artist, model lockjaw
might’ve been a step too far.” - Tim Blank -

63-
Perks and mini
2000, Australia (AU)
Misha Hollenbach (fashion designer)
Shauna Toohey (fashion designer)

Style
This magical combination makes the world go round for the
Australian design duo Perks and Mini. Together they are crea-
ting their own special style and shocking the street with their
eclectic vision of fashion. They are making out of this world
streetwear, unique accessories and much, much more. Perks
and Mini are genuine artists who are creating artwork for various
exhibitions, publishing art books and making toys for clever chil-
dren. Their spirit is freedom, creativity, fun, love and good, hard
work…..and outer/inner space. Their innovative collections for
both men and women are famous for the bold use of intense
colors and gorgeous graphics inspired by alien technology,
graffiti and skate culture. The brand is also famous for the va-
rious fashion designers and artists who collaborated with Perks
and Mini. To get a taste of the creative minds of the brand’s clo-
thing, here are some of the collaborators that have worked with
Perks and Mini in the past: Fergadelic, Susumu Mukai, Mike
Kelley, Two Many DJ’s and Joseph Szabo.

Garden of Earthly Desires collection


For this collection, PAM returns to their surreal pop inspired in-
fluences The collection is called “Garden of Earthly Desires,”
inspired by Dutch master painter Hieronymus Bosch whose
paintings showed heretic scenes full of subversive imagery,
Pam bring the garden into the 21st century with equally subver-
sive pop art icons and messages.

Website: www.perksandmini.com/
Menswear / Art / Print

-64
Perks and Mini are the graffiti names of the artists Shauna
Toohey (Mini) and Misha Hollenbach (Perks). They met at the
Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology where Hollenbach
studied painting and Toohey studied fashion design. Their
common love for little green aliens, Sun Ra and the desire to
change the world brought them together. The two Melbourne
based artists founded Perks and Mini or the P.A.M. fashion
brand in 2000. They just wanted to be free to express them-
selves and not lose their creative urge. That is why one can say
that the couple simply makes clothes for themselves. However,
no one can deny that many streetwear enthusiasts worldwide
wear their creations.

65-
Petar petrov
2003, VIENNA (AT)
Petar Petrov (fashion designer)

Biography
Petar Petrov is a Bulgarian designer based in Vienna, where
he studied under Raf Simons at the University of Applied Arts.
Petrov has headed his menswear collection since June 2003
and launched his first womenswear collection to critical acclaim
in January 2007.

Style
Characterized by an attention to purity and simplicity of form,
Petrov’s collections aim to create an easily-wearable elegance
devoid of ideological concepts. Inspired by cultural contrast and
the combination of high and low, the goal is a modern aesthetic
that is easily wearable and yet complex, a clean-lined elegance
that doesn’t try too hard, and most importantly, reflects the vita-
lity and energy of life itself.

Website: www.petarpetrov.com
Menswear /

-66
The collection is about the contrast, the mix between high and
low culture, elegance and street life, intrigued by cultural differ-
ences and cultural force, creating an aesthetical image, dis-
tanced from any ideological concepts. The use of light smooth
enzyme treated cottons, soft cotton/ cashmere knitwear, light
twisted cotton jerseys following the body shapes and the mix-
ture of white grey, aqua green and black combined with nude
colours provide the feeling of dressed nakedness and ster-
ile general overview. The style is elegant without being well
groomed and stylish without trying too hard, emphasizing the
purity and simple aesthetic of geometrical forms, mixed with
the activity and vitality of easy wearable pieces.

67-
Peter jensen
1999, London (UK)
Peter Jensen (fashion designer)

Biography
Based in London, though originally hailing from Logstor, Den-
mark, Jensen initially launched his eponymous menswear line
immediately after graduating - with a Distinction - from Central
Saint Martins, in 1999. This, along with his prior training in the
various disciplines of graphic design, embroidery and tailoring,
has consistently enabled his work to be as technically adept
as it is inspired and original. Following his menswear debut on
the Paris official show schedule, back in 2000, Jensen duly
unveiled a womenswear line, too, and both collections have
since been shown to much acclaim each season at London
Fashion Week. Jensen has subsequently garnered an ever-
growing fan base for his designs, with global stockists which
now cater to his enthusiastic clients including stores like Ope-
ning Ceremony New York, b store London, Side by Side Tokyo,
and UK Style Moscow, to name just a few. High profile devo-
tees of his aesthetic include pop sensations Amy Winehouse,
Nina Persson from The Cardigans, The Zutons’ Abi Harding,
not to mention TV stars such as US actress Rachel Bilson. (In-
cidentally, legendary film maker John Waters has also declared
his admiration for Jensen’s work, in the past and pieces from
his SS08 collection “Mink” are now included in the John Waters
archive at Wesleyan University). Such an individual, indepen-
dent approach to fashion has resulted in Jensen being one of
the most keenly anticipated, contemporary designers showing
on today’s catwalks. His is a spirit which manages, seemingly
effortlessly, to be simultaneously modern and timeless, and fun
yet rather clever, too.

« Laurie » collection
The spring summer collection seems to celebrate nerdliness
and social awkwardness. Extremely short shorts and childish t-
shirt prints dominate this collection, which includes pieces that
channel the spirit of childhood and innocence. An extremely
ambitious line, these eccentric pieces might make some great
accents to manlier outfits.

Website: peterjensen.co.uk/
Menswear /

-68
Since the onset of the current decade, Peter Jensen has
carved out a reputation as a designer whose impeccably pro-
duced creations thread together mischievous humour and a
celebratory approach to individuality, with an impressive atten-
tion to detail and lightness of touch. This approach is clearly
apparent within his designs for both men and women, the re-
sults of which always deftly remain on the wearable side of
unconventional. While Jensen’s collections are wide reaching,
it is evident that each of his designs proudly asserts itself as
a stand-alone piece, even when divorced from the context of
the collection in its entirety. What unifies these pieces, to some
extent, however, is that each collection arrives with a moniker
that references a famous or infamous woman whose style,
spirit and attitude particularly appeals to the designer.

69-
Hunted
and
collected

Kids
2010
Spring / Summer Selection

72.
Popupshop
2008, COPENHAGEN (DK)

71-
Popupshop
2008, Copenhagen (DK)
Luca Romagnoli (fashion designer)
Marie-Louise Mogensen (interaction/arts and fashion)
Sigrid Astrup (video and grapic design)
Cille Veerasawmy (interaction and photography)

Biography
Luca, Marie-Louise, Sigrid and Cille have fused their bac-
kgrounds from fashion, video performing, photography, and
graphic design to create Popupshop, a modern clothing com-
pany.

Style
The designers are passionate about making stylish quality ba-
sics with a focus on sustainability. Popupshop is fashionwear
committed to be both stylish and sustainable. The collection
is based on organic basic styles to which they continuously
introduce new designs. All items share the common aesthetic
of a classic and easy to wear design. Each piece of clothing is
timeless, and thereby easily combined with other styles.

Website: www.popupshop.net
Kidswear /

-72
The collections consist of a year-round line of basic got-tohave
garments always in stock made in comfortable materials, as
well as simple and functional cuts using monochrome colors :
grey, black, off-white. The manufacture of all popupshop prod-
ucts, through all stages, from design to production, is always
done with an eye to minimize the environmental impact. They
focus on creating a transparency for the consumer, making it
clear and concise how each product has been made. Their
pursue is to make a fair product both for the customer and for
the people involved in all stages of production. Popupshop has
been in magazine like Vogue, Vanity Fair and was nominated
as one of Time Magazine new green names.

73-
Hunted
and
collected

Accessories
2010
Spring / Summer Selection

76. 78. 80. 82.


Anntian Bless COMMON PROJECTS CoNSFETTISYTEM
2005, BERLIN (DE) 1997, BERLIN (DE) 2004, NEW YORK (US) 2008, NEW YORK (US)

84. 86. 88. 90.


LIGIA DIAS M.E.L.L.E.S.A.N. Maria Martine viergever
2005, PARIS (FR) 2008, PARIS (FR)  francesca pepe 2003, ROTTERDAM (NL)
2003, LONDON (UK)

92. 94. 96. 98.


opening ceremony Porter rachel comey Sabrina dehoff
2001, New york (US) 1936, TOKYO () 2001, New york (US) 2006, BERLIN (DE)

100. 102.
Saskia diez SLOw and steady
2006, MUNICH (DE) wins the race
2006, MUNICH (DE)
75-
Anntian
2006, BERLIN (DE)
Anne Hilken (graphic designer)
Christian Kurt (fashion designer)

Biography
The first collection was the SS07 collection. Since then, pre-
sentations of the collections are shown twice a year during Ber-
lin, Paris and Tokyo fashionweek. The decision to built up a
fashion label was rather spontanious, than highly reflected or
well planned in terms of business, all was based on a feeling
they had at that time.

Style
Anne, as a Graphic Designer deals within the areas of printing,
artworking, colours, fabrics etc. Christian as a fashion designer
is in charge of pattern making, prototypes, product develop-
ment. The design process happens within the both of them...
The keywords are : clear, reduced and simplified, rather than
decorated, complex in detail, importance of quality (fabrics, ma-
nufacturing etc.), haptics and individuality of each garment. Gra-
phics/Colors are handpainted or handprinted by Anntian, which
makes every piece unique and «abnormal». Of great importance
for Anntian is the closeness to the product, and it’s regional ma-
nufacturers (with small, local Manufacturers, all located in Ger-
many mostly in and around Berlin), so as the increasing usage
of ecological fabrics and materials. Origin of the used fabrics
and Yarns is mostly Germany, Italy and France. The clothes are
full of hidden details, conceptual authorised, differing and indi-
vidual. In their collections they’re trying to create an entire vision
and mood, within a transfer to the «Interieur», Furniture, etc.

Website www.anntian.de
Womenswear / Menswear / Accessories / Jewellery

-76
The Phase collection is a dialogue of flowing and demanding,
geometric formes. There is the aim of describing certain con-
ditions of basic formes which are undefined. Depending on
material, perspective, context, etc. they are never terminated.
Making use of triangles, circles, rectangles and squares in a
creative workprocess means to torture them in a positive way.
The sophisticated, diverse surfaces within the collection are
mostly inspired by light reflections.

77-
Bless
1995, BERLIN (DE)
Desiree Heiss
Ines Kaag

Biography
Founded in 1995 when they meet at a contest for young desi-
gners in Paris, Bless is the constantly evolving conceptual de-
sign partnership of Desiree Heiss and Ines Kaag. Their ethic is
one of complete creative freedom, reflected in innovative, off-
beat concepts ranging from fashion accessories through de-
sign to art. Since 2002, Bless offers a unisex collection of mul-
tifunctional clothes. Bless received the Andam Fashion Award
Winners in 1999 and 2004.

Style
The creative expression of Bless takes the form of numbered
editions, with a permanent research of timelessness. Their leit-
motiv: to create with complete freedom, without definite peri-
meter. A claim illustrated by concepts or products often innova-
ting and always shifted. The brand quickly will make its way in
the world of fashion accessory, of design and art. The objects
created by Bless result from the fascination of Desiree Heiss
and Ines Kaag for recycling, the diversion of the uses and the
traditional techniques like knitting, the embroidery, the hook,
etc. The accessories of Bless are thus the basics revisited in
a surprising design way. Like shoe-socks, moonboots espa-
drilles, ear-phones with fringes, wrapped extensions of wooden
pearls.

The cars : BLESS N°35 Automatica


The automotive items have their inspiratory origin in a collabora-
tion with UKs Intersection Magazine, that asked Bless amongst
other designers to create a cover for a car. Bless N°35 Automa-
tica Car Cover and the customized remote controlled cars were
officially presented in Berlin, together with the launch of the
Bless Lookbook in Intersection Magazine. The remote control-
led cars are customized, pimped or disguised and find thereby
new options of use. «The diskoroller» brings the dancefloor to
your home, «Servancer» offers you cookies...

Website: www.bless-service.de
Accessoires / Design objects

-78
“It is important for us to collaborate with different brands, be-
cause we enjoy sharing knowledge and experience, and also
because such collaborations enlarge everyone’s horizons. The
Longchamp collaboration has proved perfect and very fruitful,
bringing together the quality of Longchamp, resulting from its
heritage as a traditional family business, with our aim of ques-
tioning and redefining the shape and function of an everyday
object.” Bless have pushed the design of Le Pliage® to the
limits, creating a bag that can be folded inside its own circular
leather handles and worn as a bracelet.

79-
common projects
2004, NEW YORK (US)
Prathan Poopat
Flavio Girolami

Biography
Starting as a collaboration between designers Prathan Poopat
(former art director for Visionaire and V) and Flavio Girolami (a
well known consultant for creative agencies) in 2004, Common
Projects set out to go back to the basics, to make something
stripped down but well-made: the perfect sneaker. Common
Projects' understated luxury comes in the form of tonal laces,
uniform color throughout, hand-stitched outsoles and Italian-
made Nappa leather.

Style
With inspiration from classic tennis sneakers Common Projects
is taking ground at the high end of the sneaker segement. The
brand originates out of Italy and New York, manufactured by
hand at one of the best factories in Italy and worn by everybody
with a taste for clean kicks in nothing but top materials. The
shoes are hand stitched to the sole as opposed to vulcanized.
And using the most luxurious products assembly with a pure
palette of colours. A minimalistic approach with finely crafted
silhouettes made of Italian leather and capped off with classic
gum outsoles. A handbag line was added last winter.

Website : www.commonprojects.com
Men’s sneakers /

-80
Probably the most telling sign that the designers at Common
Projects are true practices of minimalism is their seemingly
anonymous use of branding; the only embellishment being the
signature style number stamp at the side heel. Along the years,
they bring their graphic and industrial-design backgrounds to
create shoes and accessories that integrate minimal utilitarian
design with luxury materials to become the kings of clean, mini-
mal, luxurious premium sneakers. Since its debut a few years
back, sneakers by the New York-based Common Projects
have been gracing the pages of fashion magazines and store
fronts of trendsetting boutiques worldwide.

81-
CONFETTISYSTEM
2008, NEW-YORK (US)
Nicholas Andersen
Julie Ho

Biography
Confetti System is Nicholas Andersen and Julie Ho, a duo wor-
king as artists, stylists, and designers. Their friendship, love of
communal celebration, and craft making has brought them to-
gether to create a new system.

Style
The system is a collection of objects and jewellery born from
simple materials in pastel and sparkling colours. Tissue paper,
cardboard, and silk are transformed into interactive objects that
create a point of focus where memories can be made and a
spontaneous collaboration between themselves and the viewer
is sparked. Confettisystem occupies the space that exists
between the ephemeral and the permanent and aims to evoke
a sense of lighthearted fun.

Website: www.confettisystem.com/
Jewellery / Pinatas / Decoration

-82
In addition to having their decorations seen in numerous pri-
vate celebrations, Confetti System also art directs and creates
installations and sets for the fashion and music industry such
as United Bamboo, Opening Ceremony, Yeah Yeah Yeahs,
MGMT and Beach House. Their work has been featured in
many publications including the NY Times, V Magazine, Dom-
ino, Surface Magazine, and Teen Vogue. Their work has also
been exhibited at galleries in New York, Los Angeles, Miami,
Holland and now Belgium.

83-
ligia dias
2005, Paris (FR)
Ligia Dias (Jewellery designer)

Biography
After graduating from the Graphic Design School of Lausanne
(ECAL) in Switzerland, Ligia moved to Paris to study fashion de-
sign at Studio Berçot. In the spring of 2002, while preparing her
school’s final show, Ligia undertook two internships at Lanvin
where she so impressed creative director Alber Elbaz that he
invited her to work on the Fall- Winter 2003 collection. In Sep-
tember 2002, Ligia joined the studio as a full time designer and
after three fulfilling years she launched herself as an indepen-
dent designer. She won the prestigious Andam price in 2009.

Style
«Coco Chanel and Max Bill driving a Matra 530 customized by
Sonia Delaunay», Ligia Dias’s work takes its inspiration from the
«modern postulate», in particular the Bauhaus esthetic. Based
on this ideal, she aspires to work with low-end, industrial stan-
dard materials, blended with what she calls «the luxury image».
Ligia’s work juxtaposes basic raw materials with the bourgeois
values of luxury. The result is an avant-garde combination of
ropes and brass plates with ribbon, pearls and glass beads to
produce sublime, ethereal but very contemporary necklaces.
In this way she perpetuates the approach of figures like Anni
Albers or Madeleine Vionnet. Ligia collaborate with artists, inclu-
ding Cindy Sherman, Karina Bisch and Mai-Thu Perret. Her col-
lection is available at Colette in Paris, 10 Corso Como in Milan,
Tokyo, Seoul and in other select stores worldwide.

www.ligiadias.com/
Jewellery /

-84
Ligia Dias’s work takes its inspiration from the «modern postu-
late », in particular the Bauhaus esthetic. Based on this ideal,
she aspires to work with low-end, industrial standard materials,
blended with what she calls «the luxu- ry image». Ligia’s work
juxtaposes basic raw materials with the bourgeois values of
luxury. The result is an avant-garde combination of ropes and
brass plates with ribbon, pearls and glass beads to produce
sublime, ethereal but very contemporary necklaces. In this way
she perpetuates the approach of figures like Anni Albers or
Madeleine Vionnet.

85-
M.E.L.L.E.S.A.N.
2008, PARIS (FR)
Melle San (accessory designer)

Biography
Melle San is a young fashion designer from Paris who decided
to create accessories she couldn’t find anywhere first for her
and her friends. After winning the young designers contest at
Who’s Next Paris in September 2008, she decided to start her
own brand. All creations are hand-made by San, which confers
them an unique soul. Folk singer Alela Diane and the girls from
Au Revoir Simone already could not resist!

Style
Half little fairy, half little indian and probably still a little girl. Mel-
leSan invites you to her little world made of feathers, dentelle
and headbands.

Website: www.mellesan.com
Hair Accessories /

-86
87-
Maria Francesca Pepe
2003, LONDON (UK)
Maria Francesca Pepe (fashion & jewellery designer)

Biography
Maria Francesca Pepe is born in Foggia, Italy, the 5th of March
1979. She studies Literature and Philosophy at the “Universita
degli Studi di Milano” from 1998 to 2000. Further courses in-
clude Fine Drawing at the Royal College of Art, London. Sty-
ling, Experimental Fashion Design, Digital Fashion Design and
Professional Sewing at Central Saint Martins, London. The fol-
lowing four years, during her Fashion Design BA at the “Maran-
goni Institute”, Milano, she studies Fashion, Illustration, Pattern
Cutting, Clothing Making and Fashion Business. She wins the
Tannan Fashion Award, Japan in 2003. After graduating, she
works for high street Label “Kookai” making prints and for “Lu-
ciano Soprani” as Creative Director’s personal assistant. After
two seasons at Soprani, she is accepted and completes the
Masters in Fashion Womenswear at “Central Saint Martins Col-
lege”, London. Maria Francesca takes the chance to relocate in
London and to work to her Fall/Winter 2007/08 Womenswear
Collection, shown as the Finale at the “Central Saint Martins
Ma” London Fashion Week Show. Straight after the Ma, Ma-
ria Francesca designs alongside Jens Laugesen his S/S 2008
Collection and conceives to build up her own Brand and Com-
pany “MariaFrancescaPepe”, focusing on Fashion Jewellery
Design. Since then, her heavy metal tubular jewellery has gone
down a storm. Maria has also collaborated with Roksanda Ilin-
cic, Amanda Wakeley,Louise Gray, etc

“Bathing Beauties” collection


This is a new exhibition experience for MFP who decided for
Spring/Summer 2010 to present both her clothing and acces-
sories in their own inspirational environment: the water, telling
the story behind their creation. The classic MFP Tubulars are
reinvented with a diamond-encrusted effect that makes them
shine like crystals and matched with black varnish and polished
silver.

Website: www.mfpepe.com
Womenswear / Jewellery /

-88
Maria Francesca Pepe “Jewellery-Wear” is a New Concept for
both Fashion Jewellery and Clothing that become interchang-
able items and essential pieces for a New Luxury ideal. All the
pieces are made in Italy at the highest tailoring and handcraft
quality standard. All MFPepe creations merge the link between
the ornament and the wearability. The collection is created
with the archetypal MFP customer in mind. Directional and ex-
perimental in their appearance, the MFP pieces appeal to the
avant-garde admirer, who looks for a non-conventional luxury
with a tailoring fit. Industry icons such as Roisin Murphy, Lulu
Kennedy, Agyness Deyn, Ben Grimes and Alice Dellal are all
fine examples of loyal MFP supporters.

89-
Martine viergever
2003, Rotterdam (NL)
Martine Viergever (Jewelry designer)

Biography
Dutch jewellery designer Martine Viergever is trained as a golds-
mith at the Vakschool in Schoonhoven. After completing this,
she studied fashion at the Willem de Kooning Art Academy in
Rotterdam and graduated in 2003. Next to designing her own
jewellery collections, she also designs accessories and jewel-
lery for several dutch fashion designers as Monique van Heist
and Francisco van Benthum.

« The rear view mirror » collection


«The rear view mirror» serves as a peg for a variety of objects
which will give the dashboard of the car a personal touch. Ri-
ght above the control panel, with which the driver determines
his way, amulets and mascots dangle. They guard for danger,
stipulate for football prosperity and dissipate bad spirits and
smells. «Rear View Mirror» is a collection of hand-made jewel-
lery executed in silver, combined with jeans and inspired by car
jewels. Martine Viergever expresses the thin line between indivi-
duality and mass product within the context of the rear view mir-
ror. The contrast is carried out in material, technique and mood;
precious materials versus a mass product such as jeans, craft
industry versus merchandise and spiri-

Website: www.martineviergever.com
Jewelery /

-90
Designer Martine Viergever uncovers the hidden beauty of
every day things. Viergever lovingly digs up ordinary objects
from kitchen drawers and dusty corners in order to elevate
them to the status of jewel, given an unprecedented beauty,
handcrafted in silver and other precious materials. The shape
remains unchanged; the function of the object is simply shifted
to a place of honour: hung around the neck or pinned on the
chest.

91-
Opening Ceremony
2002, New York (US)
Humberto Leon
Carol Lim

Biography
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon are co-founders of the fashion
label Opening Ceremony. Leon and Lim are former luxury retail
executives who met as students at the University of California,
Berkeley in 1993. In 2002, they opened their store in Manhat-
tan. Since, they have now outposts in LA and Tokyo. Nowa-
days, Opening Ceremony is a multifaceted environment com-
prised of retail spaces, showroom, and gallery that establishes
a new international creative forum in downtown Manhattan. Ta-
king their cue from the Olympics, the duo add designers from
a new country each year to the rails of US talent. Like a high-
fashion version of a cultural-exchange program, Opening Cere-
mony features fashions from a different country each year, with
Brazil, Germany, France and the UK dominating recent racks.
To accomplish this, Carolin and Humberto, both expats from
the corporate fashion world, live a consumer’s dream: They go
to a new country and stay for a while to hang out and get the
vibe. Then, they shop. Before leaving, the duo typically buys
two seasons’ worth of collections from about ten designers,
making sure to pick one power player and the rest relative un-
knowns.

STYLE
Recognised for its innovative concept and design aesthetic, to-
day they have stores in Tokyo and in the US featuring a carefully
selected range of designers from around the world together
with their own label running in its seventh season. Opening
Ceremony takes basic silhouettes and reinterprets them with
interesting and unexpected details.
In 2007, the concept was
expanded to a cool collection of mens and womens footwear.
They are also famous for their collaborations and capsule col-
lections with amongst other Chloé Sevigny, Spike Jonze, Uni-
qlo, Timberlands, Keds, Levi’s, Pendelton…

Website: www. openingceremony.us


Womenswear / Menswear / Shoes /

-92
Based on simple silhouettes, the collection takes reference
from mens oxfords, womens classic pumps, the simplicity
and beauty of basic shoes to match any ensemble. Offering a
range of styles from ballet flats to open-toed boots for women,
the collection is created in natural leather and suede in wear-
able colours.

93-
Porter
1935, Tokyo (JP)
Yoshida Bakan (head designer)

Biography
“Heart and soul in every stitch” has been the company’s moto
since the foundation of the brand in 1935 by Yoshizo Yoshida.
Porter by Yoshida is now a small empire with 45 stores in Japan
and one store in Hong Kong. Top-quality is a must: using only
the very best fabrics and the best components, all bags are
made in Japan within Yoshida’s factory located in the Tokyo.
The brand has never been officially launched in Europe untill
now. From May 2010, Porter by Yoshida bags can be found
in stores such as: Colette or Black Block in Paris, Dover Street
Market in London, The Glade or Wood Wood in Berlin, Hunting
and Collecting in Brussels.

Style
Porter by Yoshida is known for its attention to design, details
and functionality :
It is a simple and understated design with many details and
pockets (for phone, documents, keys, computer, pens…). It’s
the good balance between simple strong materials (nylon, lea-
ther, canvas) and more high-tech materials, some materials are
developed by Porter for a specific product. There are some
lines that are still the best selling collections since the 80’s.Por-
ter is a bag for everyone/for every purpose: you always can find
the perfect bag either for your every day business purpose, for
organizing all your stuff when traveling, for securing your pre-
cious and fragile High tech objects or to go to the beach with
the most sea and sand resistant bag.

Website: http://www.headporter.co.jp
Bag Wear /

-94
All Japanese people know the Porter brand and own at least
one Porter bag. Porter is not only a fashionable brand but it is
also a cult brand, it has become a part of Japanese fashion
and culture for several generations. Beside its impressive col-
lection (more than 900 different bags and accessories), Porter
for Yoshida has also been famous for collaborating with some
other famous brands: starting by Japanese brands such as
Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Apple, Adidas, Su-
preme, Medicom Toy and Sony, and more recently collabo-
rating with up-coming brands such as Original Fake, Amos,
Bedwin, Kitsuné and Monocle.

95-
Rachel Comey
2001, NEW YORK (US)
Rachel Comey (fashion designer)

Biography
Rachel Comey is a New York based designer, whose namesa-
ke brand includes a womens collection of clothing, shoes and
accessories, as well as a men collection of shoes and acces-
sories. Originally from Hartford, Connecticut, Comey graduated
from the University of Vermont as an art major with a focus on
sculpture. For many years she denied her interest in fashion,
instead opting to collaborate with friends on a variety of crea-
tive projects in art, costume and set design. After 10 years in
Vermont, Comey moved to New York in 1998 to further pursue
opportunities in the arts. Her collaboration with the band Gogol
Bordello, for whom she designed stage sets and costumes,
garnered her a place along with the rest of the group in the
2001 Whitney Biennial. In September of 2001, Rachel Comey
launched her eponymous collection of menswear inspired by
the young music scene in New York. Thanks to strong word
of mouth, the collection proved a success, and she began to
develop a loyal following. The natural next step for Comey was
to add womenswear to her burgeoning business. The women’s
collection quickly took off and developed its own grassroots
following. Her collections became known for their artful cus-
tom prints, graceful modern silhouettes, a hand craftsmanship,
and carefully chosen materials. Although in subsequent years,
Comey shifted her focus to womenswear, she continued to de-
velop her popular mens shoe and accessory collection.

Spring/Summer 2010 Collection


Derbys, loafers, workboots, wallbees, leather and canvas ox-
fords in earthly tones of brown, bone and beige.

Website: www.rachelcomey.com
Men’s shoes/

-96
All her collections features her signature handcrafted oxfords
in a variety of summer hues, as well as playful spins on eve-
ryday classics like espadrilles, moccasins, and desert boots.
This collection also marks the introduction of her first vegan
shoe. Although her current collections can be found in more
than 100 stores internationally, the continued success of the
brand is still largely due to word of mouth and by appealing to
the intelligence and independence of her customers, who ap-
preciate the thoughtful details and off beat charm manifested in
her designs. Comey is a member of the CFDA, and splits her
time between NYC and her converted-laundromat home near
a beach on Long Island’s North Fork.

97-
Sabrina DEHOFF
2006, BERLIN (DE)
Sabrina Dehoff (accessory designer)

Biography
In 2006, Sabrina Dehoff launched her own eponymous brand
with her first collection « Little Helpers ». Dehoff is celebrated for
her playful jewellery; light-hearted in mood, yet always executed
delicately. After graduating from the prestigious Royal College
of Arts (RCA) in London in 1996 with a Master degree in Wo-
menswear, Sabrina Dehoff worked for Guy Laroche and Lanvin
in Paris several years.

Spring/Summer 2010 collection


Sabrina Dehoff’s current collection is inspired by romantic day-
dreams of paradisiacal joy and love. Her jewellery and acces-
sories are accented by a touch of pastel colors, embodying the
beauty and idealism of these fantastical imaginings.With new
energy, we are encouraged to enthusiastically throw ourselves
into the future-stop being cool, make an effort! The collection
offers summery silk and floating satin scarves covered with new
playful prints, which conjure up images of floating in the
clouds and rainbows, and jewellery that sparkles from head to
toe in the sunshine.

Website: www.sabrinadehoff.com
Accessories / Jewellery / Scarves

-98
Her jewelry uses playful, dreamlike forms in minimal presenta-
tions. She subsequently returned to Berlin in 2000 to start her
own fashion consultancy company and gallery von Rot. With
her vonRot partners, she worked for the likes of Moschino,
DKNY and Sportmax, while also developing various projects
and the collection von Rot Couture. Sabrina Dehoff has over
forty stockist worldwide, including: Quartier 206 Berlin, An-
dreas Murkudis Berlin, Henrik Vibskov Copenhagen, Opening
Ceremony LA and NYC, Beams Tokyo, American Rag Tokyo
and Hunting and Collecting Brussels.

99-
Saskia Diez
2006, Munich (DE)
Saskia Diez (accessory designer)

BIOGRAPHY
After completing her training as a goldsmith Saskia Diez decided
to study industrial design. It was essentially coincidence that led
her back to jewellery design. And you can clearly discern the
perspective of design in her informal reduced products. With
their clarity and intelligent simplicity they are truly captivating,
playing with tradition and modernity, and citing the ‘zeitgeist’ wi-
thout being trendy. They consciously challenge the principles
according to which traditional jewellery pieces are made. Des-
pite her serious reflected way of working, her designs are never
lacking in poetry.

Style
Saskia Diez draws the inspiration for her pieces from many dif-
ferent sources: People, pieces of clothing, materials or moods,
from small everyday details. Sometimes it is even mistakes, mi-
nor inconsistencies that lead her to new ideas. Stimulated by
such observations and associations, she searches for the right
materials and combines the ideas with the symbolic content,
the use and the function of the materials until something new
emerges from them.

Website: www.saskia-diez.de/
Accessories /

-100
Take up the familiar, give it further thought and add something
new: A collaborative project between Saskia and Stefan Diez,
the “Papier” series is an experiment in revising the classical ty-
pology: the two designers have pointed out the basic require-
ments to a travel bag (durability, protection and light weight)
and sought for an appropriate material other than the tradi-
tional choices of leather and reinforced textiles. The “Papier”
bags are made of Tyvek®, a synthetic paper that is extremely
lightweight, 135g for the bigger and 115g for the smaller bag,
but at the same time exceptionally robust, both water- and
tear-proof. The material is completely recyclable. Apart from
that, one will appreciate the high-end finishes applied to such
seemingly banal material as paper. Silkscreen printing tech-
niques gives it a particularly attractive look. «Papier» won the
German Designpreis 2010.
101-
Slow and steady wins the race
2008, NEW YORK (US)
Mary Ping (fashion designer)

BIOGRAPHY
Queens native Mary Ping has said that her art background is
what informs her collections the most. Launched in 2001, her
namesake label was well received by stylish downtowners. The
label was independently run, and Ping was able to keep labor
costs at minimum by using her friends to pitch in at her Upper
East Side studio. In 2005, she was awarded the Ecco Domani
which allowed her to show in Bryant Park. The Mary Ping label
is currently on hiatus so the designer can focus on her other
line, Slow and Steady Wins the Race.

Style
Slow and Steady Wins the Race is a new clothing label, pre-
sented as a bimonthly clothing diary, cataloguing ideas that are
focused on a specific and fundamental characteristic of clo-
thing design. Mary Ping produces four collections a year that
address a classic staple, whether it be the iconic white T-shirt
or designer underwear. Each item is re-imagined in a new way:
changing the wash, altering the fit, adding an extra seam here
and there. The goal is to challenge people’s accepted views of
fashion culture and history. With each issue, Slow and Steady
Wins the Race intends to slowly open the cap on a more de-
mocratic dissemination, promotion and appreciation of clothing.
The mission of the label is to push and produce interesting and
significant pieces from the simplest and most inexpensive fa-
brics and materials.Only one hundred copies of each issue will
be printed and distributed to magazines and select stores and
only one hundred pieces of each style will produced. That was
the original framework, but due to high demand, it has been
increased to one thousand. Every style is still available since
the work in its entirety functions as a living archive. Like Maison
Martin Margiela, each of the collections focuses on a specific
theme, denoted by a number (No.1 Seams, No 2 Prints, No 3
Bags, No 4 Sweats, and so on).

Website: www.slowandsteadywinstherace.com
Womenswear / Menswear / Accessories /

-102
A past collection reinterpreted designer handbags by using
cheap industrial fabric. The result is a line of plain canvas look-
alikes. The famous Dior saddlebag becomes a casual tote,
retaining the saddlebag shape, but devoid of any logo print.
Similarly, a Bottega Veneta bag’s signature weaving is com-
posed of rough canvas instead of leather. “I took the bags and
did it in the opposite of what it stood for,” Ping explains. “I was
interested in seeing what people’s reactions would be.” The
response was overwhelming. In just a few days, the bags sold
out their limited run. They were featured in magazines and even
popped up in an episode of Sex and the City. Ping’s fans are
Claire Danes and Kirsten Dunst amongst many others.

103-
Hunted
and
collected

Objects
2010
Spring / Summer Selection

106. 106. 107. 108.


Harry Allen Harry Allen David Weeks Kyouei design
Pig Bank Roller Stop Hanno Topography Plate

108. 109. 109. 110.


Kyouei design Bless Bless Tristan Zimmermann
Endles Rain Record Automatica Cars Wooden Pearls Park Planter

111.
humans since 1982
& victor hUNT
The Surveillance Lights

105-
Harry Allen
pig bank

Harry Allen
roller stop

-106
DAVID Weeks
Hanno

107-
Kyouei design
topography plate

Kyouei design
endless rain record

-108
bless
Wooden pearls

bless
Automatica N°35

109-
TRISTAN ZIMMERMANN
Park planter

-110
Humans since 1982
The surveilance lights

victor hunt
��������� ������
111-
Hunted
and
collected

Print
Spring / Summer Selection
2010

114. 116. 120. 122.


Inventory the NEW ORDER Supreme The sartorialist
www.inventorymagazine.com slamxhype.com www.supremenewyork.com thesartorialist.blogspot.com

113-
Inventory
2009, New York (US)
Ryan Williams (creative director and founder)

INVENTORY was created as an extension of the cultu-


re and lifestyle we’re a part of. We value products and
clothing for more than just their appearance, admiring
how they’re made, by whom, and why. It’s through this
passion and attention to detail that we view the things
in our lives from a different perspective. With a hun-
ger and willingness to learn, we search for the rare,
unknown and new, while always remembering tradi-
tion and the past. It is with this blend in mind that we
explore various niches in menswear to create our own
unique aesthetic. We focus on the brands and peo-
ple, big or small, that have stories we want to tell and
might otherwise go unnoticed. INVENTORY’s unique
content draws us out of our immediate surroundings
and leads us into a world of exciting and interesting
things. INVENTORY is a place to take stock of the
items, brands and people that we connect with and
find special. With a genuine appreciation for details
and quality, INVENTORY is a curation of ideas in pro-
duct, craft and culture.

www.inventorymagazine.com

-114
115-
The NEW ORDER
2009, JP US NZL
Adam Bryce (editor in chief)

Slamxhype.com was started in 2003, a pioneer in bringing street culture,


fashion and art to the world through the internet. Slamxhype.com can
be pinpointed as the influencing source which led to the mass influx of
blogs and online media over the past 7 or 8 years. Daily slamxhype.com
concentrates on curating news, information and opinion from around the
globe. Bringing news on fashion, street fashion, contemporary art, culture
and more, slamxhype.com is also the home of the collective blogs of
some of the cultures most influential figures, weekly indepth interviews
and features, and slambase, an online directory to all the names, brands,
stores in fashion and art today. Everything you see on slamxhype.com is
carefully curated and selected to showcase what we consider the authen-
tic and influential aspects of the culture. The New Order Magazine was
founded at the beginning of 2009. After the success of slamxhype.com,
we wanted to create a platform and medium which wasn't confined to
many of the restrictions and barriers of the internet. At the same time, we
felt there was a gap in the magazine market. Again, our focus was to re-
present the culture in its most authentic form, showcase fashion whether
it be high fashion from Rick Owens or Lanvin, or street fashion from Su-
preme or Stussy. Fine Art from the likes of Richard Prince or Aaron Young,
and street art from Os Gemeos or Banksy. Our aim is to represent the
culture in its most true sense. Distributed around the world, at some of
the finest boutiques and galleries alongside news agents, in just over 1
year, The New Order Magazine has become one of the best respected
and most in demand magazines available today. The New Order Magazine
is unique in that it pulls together a community of the some of the world's
best stylists, photographers, editors and writers, who all share the same
drive to create the most authentic content available today, and document
our culture as it deserves to be.

http://slamxhype.com

-116
117-
Clark Magazine
Mark
Frame
Fantastic Man
The Gentlewoman
...

-118
119-
SUPREME
2010, NEW YORK (US)

James Jebbia (founder)

The first monograph on the iconic independent New York


street fashion label Supreme. In 1994, Supreme opened
its doors in downtown Manhattan and became the home of
New York City skate culture. The brand has stayed true to
its underground roots while collaborating with groundbreaking
artists and designers, and with stores in Los Angeles and Ja-
pan, it has become an icon of independent counter-cultural
style. Challenging the established West Coast skater scene
and the new conservatism of 1990s New York, Supreme de-
fined the aesthetic of an era of rebellious cool that reached
from skaters to fashionistas and from post-punks to hip-hop
heads. Producing clothes, skateboards, and accessories in
definitively limited editions, Supreme has earned a reputation
for quality streetwear with a unique attitude. From legendary
advertising campaigns to especially commissioned skate-
board designs and an unprecedented and comprehensive
index of their clothing to date-and including collaborations
with Jeff Koons, Richard Prince, Takashi Murakami, Ryan Mc-
Ginness, Public Enemy, Peter Saville, Marilyn Minter, Timber-
land, and Futura 2000, among many others-this richly illustra-
ted book is a survey of fifteen years of contemporary street
fashion and culture reflected in the pioneering work of one of
New York’s most influential independent labels.

www.supremenewyork.com

-120
121-
Sartorialist
2009, US UK
Scott Schuman (creative director and founder)

Scott Schuman just wanted to take photographs of people


on the street who looked great. His now famous blog ['the
bellwether American site that turned photo blogging into an
art form 'New York Times] was an attempt to showcase the
wonderful and varied sartorial tastes of real people - not only
those of the fashion industry. The book is a beautiful antho-
logy of Scott's favourite shots from around the world. They
include photographs of well-known fashion figures as well as
those shots of the anonymous passerby whose imagination
and taste delight the viewer. From the streets of Rio to Bejing,
Stockholm to Milan, these are the people that have inspired
Scott and in turn, inspired designers and people of all ages,
wages and nationalities with an interest in fashion. Intimately
designed and created with Scott, the book is a handsome
object in its own right, in full colour on hand-picked, quality
paper. Scott Schuman started The Sartorialist simply to share
photos of people that he saw on the streets of New York that
he thought looked great. Having worked in fashion industry for
fifteen years, he felt there was a disconnect between what he
was selling in the showroom and what he was seeing real peo-
ple (really cool people) wearing in real life. The Sartorialist was
his attempt to redress the balance. He began shooting people
on the street in a way that he knew most designers hunted for
inspiration. Since its beginning the blog has become hugely
respected and influential in the fashion industry and beyond,
and currently receives over 100,000 hits a day.

http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/

-122
123-
Fashion Blogs
PAM Books
British Fashion Designers
...

-124
Facehunter
Fashion and imagination about clothes and art
Fashion Jewellery
...

125-
Projects
Project Room

March/April 2010:
Art Exhibition ‘Hunting and Collecting’

Sam Vanoverschelde
Nicholas Wierinck

From left to right:


Palli Bannine,
David de Tscharner,
Bjarke P Olson

-126
May 2010:
Clemens Hollerer: The beauty of the Beast

127-
acknowledgmentS
of the first issue of the hunted and collected
spring/summer 2010 selection

Credits:
p.8 Tine Claerhout
p.18,48,76 Moritz Nicolaus Schmid
p.90 Thomas Voorn
Lookbook Hicham Riad

Book Design:
Fabien Gribomont

Special thanks to:


Family, friends, brands and everybody else

©2010 by Hunting and collecting


All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without wrtitten permis-
sion of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge
and prior consent of the artists concerned. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits
accurately comply with information supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have
occured and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a subsequent reprinting of the
book.

Printed in Brussels, Belgium

Partners:
Levis Paints Philips Lighting Victor Hunt

victor hunt
��������� ������

129-
HUNTING AND COLLECTING

www.huntingandcollecting.com

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