Agroindustrial

The great opportunity of cocoa

The change of paradigm: From chocolate milk to chocolate origin as an

opportunity of business.

By: Javier Maías

SE1397
November 14, 2013

This is the most important news for Peru this year: A piurano cocoa has won the
gold medal and the prize for the best chocolate bar black origin of the world in
the prestigious International Chocolate Awards competition, which takes place
annually in London. The news is auspicious, especially for the small community of
Quemazón in which the cocoa is harvested.

"Awards like this in the region reaffirm that cocoa is a viable and highly profitable
crop that allows its residents to live peacefully. Additionally this direct influence on
self-esteem" Santiago Peralta said, founder of Chocolates Pacari, the company
that developed the award winning bara.

Why, if this award has the ability to generate such significant changes, has been
overlooked by the national press? Simple: Cocoa is Peruvian, from Quemazón, as is
stated on the package, but Pacarí, the company that transforms it into a delicious
bar is Ecuadorian.

The new paradigm of cocoa

Are you surprised that a bar has been produced in Latin America dethroned a
hundred European companies that have several centuries of tradition? Since
cacao was introduced in the courts of the Old World, and since the first
chocolatiers were appearing-was consolidated a paradigm of excellence in the
production of chocolate, based in the attributes that highlighted which had a
reputation for being the best makers. In Switzerland, cattle country, it was
proposed that the best bar was the one with a more creamy texture, and was
made, therefore, with the best milk. The French, culinary geniuses said that over
roast cocoa to minimize acidity and with it, any typicity that would make a grain
be distinguished from another.

While the discussion of centuries progressed to know who made the best bar, an
interesting change occurred: in the eighties the art of making chocolate was
complemented by that of finding the best beans. Since then, the producers
started to brag about how much cocoa containing each of its bars, first timidly
with 38% stated on the label. Now commonly, it is considered black chocolate
which has 70% cocoa, what leave site for the enough amount of sugar to melt well
the pieces when they are placed in the mouth, and so they can express all its
flavors and subtleties. It is considered an additional merit point to the place where
that delicious percentage of cocoa proceeds.

While chocolate milk continues being manufactured, and being valued, it is clear
the change of paradigm to the origin chocolate. This is probably the main cocoa
revolution since it was "discovered" and molded in a bar. The award given to
Pacarí 70% Piura Quemazón, it is a clear reflection of this phenomenon.

Revolutions of these characteristics are happening in other fields, as coffee and

wine, where the terroir is increasingly important. The spirit of this era privileges the
purity of the product, the defined flavors, the traceability and the unique origins.
The contemporary consumer prefer precisely the kind of experience that
constitutes now an opportunity for the Peruvian cacao, if regional cocoa and
native genetic material are rescued.

Quemazón is an archetypal example: Since winning his first medal - last year got a
silver medal-the best chocolatiers in the world are fighting for that cocoa. While
the average cocoa in the region is quoted between U.S. $ 2,500 and U.S. $ 2,700
per tonne, it is known that Pier Marcolini, one of the most famous chocolatiers in
Belgium paid $ 8000 for a ton, and today it is commonly accepted among the
“insiders” industry that is the best cocoa quoted of the continent.

“The peru is a promise”, said Maricel Clip, partner of the International Chocolate
Awards Americas, a gateway to global competition. In the country are only two
factories that process the bars of all brands-Peruggia and Orquídea, but there is
not an industry of "bean to bar", which are those that provide the greatest value.
“We need someone that take the risk of setting up a business as Ecuador o
Venezuela, and it will occur soon. When it happens, it will have real reason to
celebrate. The world is waiting for them”