Format for the Certification

This is to certify that this Internship Project is a bonafide work of AKANKSHA GUPTA
in Partial Fulfillment of 16 weeks internship (Apparel Production).

College mentor (Ms. Priyadarshini)

Industry mentor ( Mr. Umesh Yadav)

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INDEX

Chapter 1 Introduction to NAHAR:

 introduction
 objectives
 layout of NAHAR
 industrial layout
 departments in NAHAR
 hierarchical structure
 material management in NAHAR

Chapter 2 State of art machinery

Chapter 3 Merchandising department

 sampling merchandiser
 production merchandiser

Chapter 4 Fabric department

 about Dhandhari unit

 knitting
 list of knitting machines
 Fabric checking and testing

Chapter 5 Cutting department

 Marker making and grading

 Cutting

Chapter 6 Sewing department

 workflow
 list of machines at nahar

Chapter 7 Finishing department

 checking and mending

 finishing and pressing

Chapter 8 Packing and labeling

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INTRODUCTION
The Internship Project was undertaken by Akanksha gupta at Nahar, 373 Industrial Area A
and 427 Industrial Area A.

At Nahar, my project is of four months, which is about studying all the phases of apparel
production and implement a project which would be productive for the industry. At Nahar I
saw all the steps which are included in the sending of salesmen sample and what measures
should be taken to produce such a sample which is as per the requirement of the buyer, so
that the order gets approved. Goodwill in the eyes of buyer is the aim they want to achieve at
Nahar.
Currently I am working under industrial engineering department where I am learning all the
roles and responsibilities. At Nahar as soon as the order gets confirmed, the sample
merchandiser at “Nahar” head department hands over the purchase order along with the
production file to the production merchandiser at Nahar Pearl unit where all the production
takes place. From receiving the purchase order, getting the production file and approved
sample from sample merchandiser, ordering the fabric and trims for production, getting the
required sample like 1st of bulk, trims and accessories strike off, pre production sample and
add samples approval to putting the order in production and getting it dispatched in time well
in time.
At nahar, the machinery used is highly technical and new. For movement the required trolleys
are being used. At Dhandhari unit, to send the goods from one sub unit to another was being
done through mini trucks, mechanically driven trolleys etc.
At Dhandhari unit the highly technical knitting machinery is also available from simple flat
machine to power flat and circular machine, fully automatic and manual and also auto striper.

At Nahar, the production floor is well equipped with different garment construction
machines, e.g. SNLS, overlock, Flatlock and other special purpose machinery. The machines
are of JUKI, SINGER. There are total 5 production halls at Pearl Unit, and 2 production
halls each at head office and building opposite to that. The work of each brand is done in
different production halls. The fusing machines are present within the production hall only
which are used to fuse the moon patch, fuse the placket and top print the HT labels.

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The halls being very spacious and big, the checking area is also made within the hall in many
of the halls where there is no division for the same. The garments are checked for stains,
4holes and other defects in specific lights, in a company like Nahar.
The finishing rooms are made separately because in the finishing hall the steam press is also
to be done which creates a lot of humidity in the hall.

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OBJECTIVES:
1.) Study of all the departments and their process flow in NAHAR.

2.) To analyze my experience with reference to my experiences in the unit by stating my view

points.

3.) To study the procedural flow from product development to final dispatch.

4.) To study the documentation during all the stages from recieval of product development
manual to the final dispatch.

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Layout of NAHAR

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COMPANY PROFILE OF NAHAR
The company was established in 1949 on a small scale with a big vision. The burning desire
to evolve, grow and one-day position itself as a responsible and repute corporate entity play
out its role in improving the people’s quality of life through their products service remained a
driving force. With great spirit enterprise, boundless enthusiasm, grit and determination the
company was able to ass new dimension to their philosophy –“WHERE COMMITMENT
LEADS ACHIEVMENTS FOLLOWS”.

Nahar started its industry with 800 spindles and is now a conglomerate with a wide ranging
portfolio from Spinning, Knitting, Fabrics, Hosiery Garments to Sugar.

The turnover of the group is $ 450 million inclusive of export turnover of $ 115 million. The
markets of the Nahar are spread all over the world. The objective is meeting the buyers
expectations with consistent quality backed by R&D division equipped with latest equipment,
cream of highly qualified technocrats adhering to timely schedules. Nahar has capacity to
produce 40,000 pieces of Garment per day. India’s one of the largest Hosiery/Knitwear
Manufactures and exporters, having prestigious buyers like I-ZOD, OLD NAVY,
GAP,CHAPS, PHILIPS-VAN-HEUSEN, C&A etc. In domestic market it holds its own
Hi-Profiled Top rated brands- “MONTE CARLO,” CANTERBURY” and “COTTON
COUNTY” for wide range of garments. It has been recognized as a “2 STAR EXPORT
HOUSE “awarded by govt. of India.
The production facilities have been awarded ISO 9002 / ISO 14002 Certification and
Okotex Certification. Jawaharlal Oswal public charitable trust which runs free dispensaries
in remote areas to fulfill the medical needs of the under privileged and Mohan lal Oswal
memorial hospital, promoted by oswal woolen mills, but run as charitable institution catering
to vast cross section of society.

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DEPARTMENTS IN NAHAR SPINNING MILLS

1. Personnel Deptt.
2. Accounts
3. Purchase
4. Documentation
5. Store
6. Production
7. EDP

But in the Garment Unit of Nahar there are following Departments are :

1. Store
2. Purchase Department
3. Production
4. Packing
5. Inspection
6. Loading

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INDUTRIAL LAYOUT OF THE PEARL UNIT
As I entered the industry, there was a check point of security, where the visitors need to put in
their entries so that it should be cross checked that who all came to the factory, what was
their time of entry and exit. On one side of the gate, there was a card swap system which was
used to count the attendance of the employees, and they need to swap the card at the time of
entry as well as exit. Opposite to the entry gate is the time office which kept the record of the
accounts as well as the attendance. There is provision for dispensary, canteen and crèche in
the industry which shows that the industry has complete compliance and facilities for worker.
As we enter in the organization, there is the designer department where all the designing for
the imports is done. As we move inside the industry, first comes the fabric receiving and
keeping department where all the fabric was received and stored thereafter. Then in the front
of the fabric receiving section there was cutting department where all the fabric was issued
for cutting and was cut. The embroidery section is an extension to the fabric department
however the exit was different.
At Nahar there are 5 production halls, which have been allotted different brands. halls are
equipped with state of art machinery(discussed ahead) with machines like SNLS, Overlock,
Flatlock to produce quality products. The halls are also equipped with fusing machines to
fuse the collar and placket and also with HT machine to save time of material handling.
Almost all styles being made in the industry have Heat transfer label. T he cheking area was
also a part of stitching hall itself.
there was a steam press area as steam creates a lot of humidity. The trims and accessories
store were on the top floor of each building however there were small trims counters on each
floor where all the required trims and accessories and threads for all the running styles were
kept. The threads and trims were also kept in boxes at the beginning of each line.
The washrooms for the workers were outside the halls separate for men and women on the
ground floor. Also there were washrooms on the top floor too.
For the administrative staffs there were separate washrooms. There was canteen for the
workers and separate canteen for the staff.
In the company the halls were less divided and there were instead big production halls where
all the work related to production was being done. However we could see that where ever
there was division for the packing and finishing, the glass doors or plastic walls were used.
There were fire extinguishers in each hall and also there were first aid boxes on each wall of
the hall as the halls are very big and many of the workers are working in each hall. To make
the approach to the first aid boxes convenient they were kept each wall. there were fire
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extinguisher and fire alarm in the stair cases also at the exit of each hall. There were separate
entry and exits to each hall and the passage area was spacious so that the trolleys may pass
through easily. there were lifts I each building to move the trolleys and movable bins up and
down easily and also to move the cutting roles and bundles up.
In the production hall at the unit at 327 Industrial Area A, the switch track system was used.
In this system, It is a synchronic type of system in which the transfer was overhead that is
trough the track. The main garment part i.e. the body was hanged on the bigger clip and the
other parts on the small clips.
The output of each worker in this is calculated at the end of the line, on a white board,
whereas in the Pearl unit the assembly and straight line systems were used, or the process
layout was there in the production hall. The output was calculated manually, by feeding in the
SAP system, with the help of which the per day production status report for every 8 hours
was also prepared, which needed to be updated with the merchandiser.
The industry generally makes one type of garment i.e. the sportswear so it hardly needs to
change the layout and shift machines. The grouped system was also employed but very rarely
only if a lot of orders are running and in small orders.
The supervisor for the lines sits on the table at the beginning of the lines, so that he can check
all the lines. Near to him the storage bins were kept where those bundles were dropped that
were complete.

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MATERIAL MANAGEMENT
As the fabric was received from the Dhandhari concern it was moved inside the fabric to the
storage room door in trucks only, and after being weighed and entered, they were moved in
the halls manually.
They were then put in the pallets or racks.
They were moved to the cutting people trough trolleys and movable bins. The ready to cut
fabrics are generally kept on pallets there are separate types of trolleys for different kind of
roles. For the cut part bundles there are separate bin like trolleys enclosed from all sides and
for the rolls there are separate trolleys.

At the Head Office where all the sampling is done, in the fabric storage area, as it is in
basement we can see a slide through which the trolleys are moved in easily.
The head office and the opposite unit of nahar, at 327 Industrial Area A, are attached to each
other through a bridge that goes overhead. The workers can move through the units easily and
quickly and can also move the trolleys.

For the movement of small parts and trims and threads, the small trollies are used shown
below.

P.1

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STATE OF ART MACHINERY
There are various stitching machines present in the industries’ production room along with
some fusing machines and HTL i.e. heat transfer label machines also.The list of these are
given below along with the respective characteristics of each.

a) single needle lock stitch machine:

This sewing machine forms the lock stitch. Some of the features of this machine are:
 Speeds of up to 6000 rpm with electronic controls, which reduces the time, required for the
acceleration and deceleration.
 Automatic positioning of needle in up and down position;
 The automatic clipping of top and bottom threads;
 A bar tacking mechanism actuated through the foot pedal or automatically by means of an
electronic seam end sensor.

P.2

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This is a two thread machine, one thread from the bobbin and the other from the needle. The
thread in the bobbin is in upper side and thread in the needle is on the lower side of the fabric.
If the tension in the bobbin thread is more, then there will be bad appearance on the upper
side and vice versa. For single needle lock stitch machine, feeding is when the needle is in the
uppermost position. For double needle machine, feeding is done when the needle comes
down. There is only main feed in this machine.

Different needle numbers is used for different type of garments e.g.

For shirts (cotton), needle no. 11 is used
For synthetic and silky shirts, needle no. 9 is used.
For denim, needle no. 14-16 is used.
Stitches per inch in lock stitch are mainly 8-10 SPI for polyester.

P.3

following are mentioned the machine parts with a complete picture the sewing machine
(JUKI DDL-8300N)

There are following different parts of the machine:-

1. Face plate asm

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2. Face plate gasket
3. Screw
4. Face plate oil shield asm
5. Rubber Plug
6. Rubber Plug
7. Screw
8. Window Plate
9. Gasket
10. Rubber Plug
11. Rubber Plug
12. Needle Thread Guide Pin ASM
13. Thread Guide Rod
14. Thread Guide Disk
15. Thread Guide Disk Spring
16. Hinge Screw
17. Two Eyelet
18. Thread Take Up Lever Cover
19. Screw
20. Screw
21. Arm Thread Guide A
22. Screw
23. Thread Tension ASM
24. Thread Tension Nut
25. Rotation Stopper
26. Thread Tension Spring, A
27. Disk Stopper
28. Thread Tension Disk
29. Thread Tension Post
30. Thread Take Up Spring
31. Thread Tension Post Base
32. Screw
33. Screw
34. Tension Releasing
35. Throat Plate
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36. Screw
37. Arm Thread Guide B
38. Screw
39. Rubber Plug
40. Screw
41. Slide Plate ASM
42. Slide Plate
43. Slide Plate spring
44. Screw
45. Bed Screw Stud
46. Ground Mark
47. Ruler Stop Seat
48. Needle Seal
49. Screw
50. Safety Label

P.4
This picture is showing the main feed system of the DDL-8300 N, There are the following
parts are shown in the picture:-
1. Link Thread Take Up Lever ASM
2. Needle Bar Crank H
3. Thread Guide Pin

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4. Needle Bar
5. Presser Spring
6. Thread Tension ASM
7. Thread Tension Spring
8. Feed Spring Rack
9. Adjust Link Spring
10. Needle Bar Bushing, Lower
11. Needle Bar Thread Guide
12. Inner Hook Presser H
13. Throat Plate (H)
14. Feed Dog (H)
15. Oil Adjusting Pin
16. Lubricating Bobbin ASM
17. Screw
18. Hinged Presser Foot ASM
19. Needle DBX1 #21

b) Over locking
This is a generic name given to the over edge machine used to trim and cover the rough edges
of the fabric in order to present a clean and neat appearance where seam edges are visible.
Over lock machine forms chain stitches but these stitches cannot be opened easily.

P.4 and P.5

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Over lock machines are of two types:
a) 4- thread machine
b) 5- thread machine

4 - Thread machine contains two looper and two needles whereas 5- thread machine consists
of two needles and 3 loopers.

In case of 4- thread machine first lockstitch is made and then over locked by 4- thread
machine. But with the help of 5 – thread, lock stitch is not required

as 1 looper and one needle make the lock stitch and 1 needle and 2 loopers for loop formation
so the thickness of the seam is less and the strength is more. But in 4-thread machine 2
needles and 2 looper are used for loop formation. Upper looper takes the thread from both the
needles and comes back so that the thickness is more.

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 P.6

Picture: - 5 thread over lock machine.

4-thread machine is used to join the shoulders of shirts whereas 5-thread is to join the sides of
shirts.
Stitches per inch depend upon the type of the garment to be stitched e.g.:
For T-shirts - 6-8 stitches/inch
For woven shirts - 9-10 stitches/inch
For denim - 12-14 stitches/inch

In case of over lock both differential feed and main feed takes place. Main feed means just
simple way of feeding and differential feed is when the two seams like that of side and sleeve
are so joined that equal speed is required for both sides of fabric.

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 P.7

Main Parts of the over lock machine:-

1. Upper Looper
2. Lower Looper
3. Needle Plate
4. Feed Dog
5. Upper Knife
6. Lower Knife
7. Needle Guard
8. Needle Bar
9. Needle Holder
10. Thread Take Up Guide
c) Flat lock stitching:
Flat lock machine has the same features as the over lock machine. It is used where there is no
necessity for pressed open seams. The main difference between flat lock and over lock
machine is that over lock machine contains a cutter whereas flat lock machine does not have
a cutter whereas flat lock machine does not have a cutter. Secondly, the stitches of the over
lock cannot be opened up but flat lock stitches can be opened out.

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Flat lock machine consists of 3 needles, 1 looper and 1 spreader. Without spreader there will
be 3 series of simple stitches formed by 3 needles.
Mainly stitches per inch in case of flat lock machine for denim is 6-9 SPI. There are both
main feed and the deferential feed in case of flat lock machine.
Flat lock machines may be flat bed or cylinder bed. Flat bed is the most widely used type of
machine bed for flat lock machine. The shape of the cylinder bed allows easy rotation of
tubular parts such as cuff. Mainly attachment such as belt attachment, elastic, front bone, etc.
are made on cylinder bed.

P.8
Picture; - Folding Machine (Rimoldi, Great Britain Ltd.) with a range of bolt-on attachment

Here I am mentioning the main parts of a flat lock stitching machine;-

1. Needle Bar
2. Needle Plate
3. Feed Dog (Front & Rear)
4. Pressure Foot
5. Looper
6. Looper Guard
7. Needle Holder
8. Needle Guard

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d) Button hole machine:
A buttonhole is a straight or shaped slit cut through the garment and then sewn around its
edges to prevent fraying or stretching. The variables in buttonhole machine are the form and
size of the buttonhole, the stitch type, the stitch density, whether the stitches radiate from the
center of the eyelet hole; two legs on either side of the straight cut with a bar tacking on both
sides as in shirts.
The choice between the cut before and after machines applies principally to buttonholes in
tailored outwears. The advantage of cut before buttonhole is a neat appearance with thread
covering the raw edges of the hole efficiently. The advantage of cut after button holes is that
the edges of the fabric gives some protection to the thread, the fabric is more stable and
reposition is possible after the machine cycle begins if the defect is detected.

The disadvantages are that once the sewing cycle has begun the position of the buttonhole
can be altered. The main appearance is the finished end of the buttonhole with the cut end of
the fibers protruding between the stitches. This style is mainly used on the denim jackets,
which are laundering before sale to give a worn look.

P.9
The type of stitches made by buttonhole machine is:
Whip and Purl
Whip is the stitches on the both sides and Purl is stitch on single side of the buttonhole.

Buttonhole machine consists of single needle and 2 loopers. It is a two thread machine. 1st
thread comes through the needle and the 2nd comes through one looper. 2nd looper is blind

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looper and holds the loop formed by 1st looper. It has one cutter. Normally one buttonhole
consists of 105 stitches. Buttonhole of the trouser is one inch in length and that of shirt is ½
inch.
In Nahar, it has 15 machines of button hole from JUKI & BROTHER, JAPAN
e) Button sew machine;

The variables in the button sew machines are the size and shape of the button which
determines the design of the button clamp, the number and the deposition of the holes, the
form of stitching where the button has sewn shank or neck, the stitch type and the number of
stitches. Button may be flat with two holes or four holes or the may have shank at the back.

Mainly the button is sewn with the lockstitch. The advantage of lockstitch is the security but
the disadvantage is an untidy look to the stitching on the other side of the fabric from the
button. A chain stitch button sewer gives a cleaner appearance at the back but less security.
The requirement of the operator is to position the button in the clamp.

Buttons with two holes and four holes can be sewn on the same machine with small
adjustments to the button clamp. The sewing action consists of a series of parallel stitches
whose length is equal to the spacing between centers of the holes. The needle has a vertical
movement only and the button is moved side by side with the bottom clamp.
This machine is a two thread machine. One thread comes from the bobbin and one from reel.
Machine has one looper and one needle. Looper is blind looper. Cutter is also present to cut
the thread when the button is sewn.

In Nahar it has 16 machines of button sew from JUKI & BROTHER JAPAN.

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 P.10

P.11
For one button 7-9 stitches on both sides are made.
Maximum speed is 2700 m/sec.
Time for sewing single button is 1 ½ sec.
Shirt has 7 buttons.
T - Shirt has 2-4 buttons

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 DESIGN DEPARTMENT.
The design department can be considered as the research and development
department of a clothing factory, because it is in this department that the copies of garments
are developed and prepared for selling and production.

MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

Merchandising This is a specific activity, which concerns itself with product development,
overall production strategy and the delivery of merchandise to customers.
Merchandising not only has to adjust rapidly to market variations, but more importantly to
anticipate these changes. During a boom season there could be a sudden influx of orders, and
the merchandiser would have to allocate production priorities and attempt to wholly or
partially satisfy customers who are crying out for merchandise.
The work of merchandising in an industry like NAHAR SPINNING MILLS is divided into
two parts,

SAMPLING MECHANDISING and PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING.

SAMPLING MERCHANDISER:

The work of sampling merchandising begins with receiving the Product Development manual
of a new style which includes the following details:-
 Picture of the garment,
 Stitching details of the garment,
 Spec sheet including all basic as well as specific measurements of the garment to be stitched,
 Details of any trims or labels to be attached,
 Type of finishes to be given to the garment of fabrics like- fabric mercerized, yarn
mercerized, garment wash, pigment dye, special washes as stone wash, acid wash, enzyme
wash light bleaching to give washed look to the garment etc.
 The package also specifies the details of any embroidery or printing on any part of garment,
 Cuttings or swatches of the actual colors in which the garment is to be finished.
The main work for the merchandiser is to study the package in detail so as not to miss out any
of the minutest information relating the garment.
The following table shows the process of sampling merchandising:

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 Developement sheet
in which the buyer sends a design like a striper for making it so that he could make sure
whether the industry could or could not knit the same type of design.

colour shades from the buyer side which are reffered to for lab dips and colour codes

PDMS/ ARTWORK from buyer side for sampling

proto sample

pattern lab dips submitted close fabric and trims for making sample

proto comments

new pdm for 1st piece salesman sample, 3 pcs in actual colour

lab dip comments - lab dips sent in 3-4 close colour shades and the buyer selects out of them. the lab dips are
conducted immediately after recieving the colour standards so that by the time we recieve the proto sample
comments we have already recieved the comments on the lab dips.

recieved 1st piece PDM according to which the first piece is made, the first piecec in made
in 3 colour actual.
check pattern order trim and yarn

1st pc. sample comment

requirement sheet for bulk salesman sample+fit,

for maxico-and u: M, for canada: L, US: S

check yarn and yarn quantity, check trims, grade pattern

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 sample submitted sent ex india

final comment for production and fit

po's

approval of Po's

pre production meeting and final costing

1st of bulk for layout and colour approval

re fit

size sets top P.P

Table 1.2.10

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SXS/salesmen sample:
Sticker for a salesmen sample is made according to the different countries, the salesmen
sample is to be sent to. Salesmen sample is demanded by the buyer for different retailers,
through which they book the orders for that style. The sizes for the different retailers and
different countries are different. The number of salesmen sample ordered varies form 17-25.
The amount of required salesman sample and the colors in which it is required and quantity
per colour is given in the *requirement sheet sent by the buyer. Salesmen sample is in actual
configuration so that the buyer could have an actual look of the garment and is presentable
further.
Generally the sampling period for one style is 3 months but now, the buyers have become
finicky and they want that the sampling should be complete within 45 days only. The industry
cannot exceed the time limit of 3 months for one season as the whole year is divided into 4
seasons of three months each, so by the time the first sampling is over the next starts.
The shrinkage of the fabric is tested at that time only when kitting is being done. The
shrinkage test is conducted for one combo of a style, as in all the colours of that combo; the
same category of yarn is being used. The shrinkage is checked for the first combo only so that
all the combos can be made in required layout and dia. this saves time and money.
The layout is sent for approval in case of any kind of striper and along with that the fabric’s
approval is asked for colour shade, texture, shrinkage, GSM etc. This all is mentioned in
fabric development card, whose three copies are made, 2 of them are sent to the buying office
out of which 1 the buying office checks, the second is forwarded by the buyer to the buying
office and the third is kept with us This card contains details like the name of vendor, brand
name, color combination, wash programmed or unwashed, the fabric type, the combination,
the knit no. the submit round, hand feel, approval deadline, etc.

First of all, all the trims are ordered as they have to be supplied from outside and most of the
times have to be imported from different countries as per the specification of the buyer. The
trims can be bought only from the nominated buyers, which are nominated in much of the
cases. Buyers like chaps, have a chart that provides name of the suppliers against the various
trims, so the same chart could be referred to whenever the trims are to be ordered. These
charts are being updated time to time, and they even tell us the cost of the particular trim
being offered by a particular buyer.

27 | P a g e
When the sample merchandiser has got the sample made and is cross checking it, he makes a
sample preparation report, for departmental or organizational use only.. It contains the details
like, the name of the merchandiser under whom the sample is being made, GSM, colour
combination, season, description of the garment programme, type of sample being sent like
pp or fit etc. the qty i.e. the number of pieces made in the combination, the embroidery type,
if the garment is a wash programme or unwashed, the length of zipper if being used or
number of buttons if being used, the labels, or the grovmet sizeany other trims being used,
type of collar. After, the sampling merchandiser has sent the salesmen sample and has
thereby received comments for the sample, the order is finnaled with all the details of the
contract.
While the deal is finalized the following things are talked about:
 The time limit to deliver the shipment
 the cost of each unit
 the mode of payment as well as shipment
 and other minutes related to the deal

Then when the deal is finalised, the style sheet with improvements and comments are
received. The sample merchandiser prepares a production file and hands it over to the
production merchandiser along with the breakdown of size and colour for a style and along
with the purchase orders. In case of on style and even its colour, there can be many purchase
orders and one of the reason for this could be that the delivery has to be sent to more than one
country and the other could be add ons to the order quantity.

28 | P a g e
PRODUCTION MERCHANDISER:
After the style gets approved, the sample merchandiser hands over the PO to the production
merchandiser, who further proceeds with the order. The production merchandiser proceeds
with ordering the trims and accessories and the fabric. He is the one who calculates even the
requirement of fabric for an order. he studies the whole order and makes the TNA. He
coordinates between the various department and tries to meet the planned shipment date.
From the date the PO received till the shipment is ex-factory, the whole duty is of the
merchandiser.

Salesmen sample

Production file, Purchase order and order breakdown

Calculating fabric consumption (refer to fabric department’s consumption paragraph)

Booking of the trims and fabric for the order.

1st of bulk and strike off.

Pre-production sample(exact configuration with all tags and accessories.

sometimes pilot run is also conducted to confirm that if there is any pit-holes in the
production process.

.
Pre-production meeting

Bulk cutting and other steps until production

The first step of the production manager is to read the style sheets carefully and then, After
reading the PDM, and carefully studying the purchase order, the merchandiser makes out
how many pieces are to be made and in which combo. The breakdown of each combo and
purchase order is given in the breakdown given by the sampling merchandiser in the
production file. The production manager enters the trims and accessories requirement into the

29 | P a g e
register as per the purchase orders separately. While ordering trims and accessories, if the
trims have to be sourced from outside the country then the trims are ordered in bulk so that
there is no delay in recieval of trims as it may lead to delay in shipment. Generally the source
from where the trims have to be sourced from is suggested by the buyer. When the trims are
being ordered they are ordered 5% extra. The format of the trims register where the quantity
ordered and recieval and balance of receipt is noted is as follows:
Style no.
Purchase order no. Delivery Date:
Total qty.
Item Size Required qty. Received qty. Date of Issue date
receiving And signature
Button 18 ligne 455 gross 455 \gross 23 JAN 2019 28 JAN 2010
BT 12387

All the accessories like the main label, the price ticket, the joker label, the wash care label,
the size label, the poly bags, the hangers (if garment hang program) etc are ordered 5% extra.
After entering them in the registered they are then calculated and ordered for, to the supplier.
The trims and accessories are ordered in full quantity and sometimes in small quantities first.
full quantities are generally ordered in case the accessories are to be received from outside
the country as there is no cancelling of the order now and no possible changes in the
accessories as well and because the recieval of accessories from outside the country would
take much time so no risk is taken, as if the accessories are not in house within time this may
lead to delay in production and as a result may also lead in delay of shipment dispatch in
some cases.
When the trims are ordered a Performa invoice is received from the supplier which contains
the description of quantity and the per unit price + the total price. Mostly dealing is done in
US$.
The Performa invoice number and the price is then noted against each trim for cross
verification.
Before all the pre production samples are made the comments are received already on the
first of bulk.
first the first of bulk sample is made, in actual fabric, flat knit, i.e. the actual fabric/ rib for
collar and placket, with the correct embroidery, if any. it is not to be made full, it is just the

30 | P a g e
mock. First of bulk made for embroidery approval, layout approval, colour approval, collar
flat knit, neck tape approval, not necessary to make the placket as it is of the same fabric of
body
for the actual look the TOP samples are made, after we have received comments on the pp
sample.
The TOP sample is like an example of how actually the final garment would look like. It is
made taking care of all the minutes and with all the tags as well as all the labels. It is made in
3 pieces, one for the industry itself, one for the buying house and one for the buyer. It is well
packed and is insured to have no problems like staining, knitting problems, cuts or any wrong
detail or label. It is also used by the buyer to show to the retailers and the buyer may ask for
add on samples for trade affairs, like to be shown to retailers or to be displayed at the
showrooms.

Before starting with the bulk production the bulk sample and pp sample are sent for approval.
like, the order is confirmed on 28/12/2018, on 10/2 we will send FOB and wait for
comments, however within that time we don’t proceed with bulk fabric but will order
the trims because there would be no change in the trims. Proceeding to PP sample
next day after the FOB comments have been received:- Received FOB comments,:-
PP ready to be sent. For making our PP we have ordered the trims in small quantities.
Now after that we have received the comments on PP then we send the TOP. TOP is
the first sample from the lot. But according to the plan if we receive PP comments on
16th of march ,we have to do dispatch the order by 12 th may.

31 | P a g e
 Table# I.1; time and action plan

Trims and accessories are ordered while we are waiting for the FOB comments. In case there
is any delay in the shipment even for one day, the company has to face bad consequences.
The shipment then has to be sent by air instead of ship and the buyer is so finicky in his

32 | P a g e
terms. The air freight is almost 4 times than the shipment cost and unlike the earlier terms.
now the manufacturer has to bear the shipment charges by air.
In a merchandiser’s language there are total 4 seasons. these are spring(11),
summer(12), holiday(13) and fall(14) i.e. the industry gets orders for these four seasone
and produces them. the total time for sampling and production is 3 months. most of the
brands like chaps and Benetton deal in this way.

33 | P a g e
FABRIC DEPARTMENT:
During sampling, and production the yarn is ordered for knitting so as to knit the fabric which
is required, in the required quantity. the fabric is always ordered 5% extra then the originally
required.
The knitting is of fabric is done in the sister concern of nahar itself, which is situated at
Dhandhari, Ludhiana.
About the Dhandhari unit:
At dhandhari unit both circular as well as flat machines are present and the variations in them
are also there. In circular machines the variations present are
single jersey machine, Double jersey machine,Lycra rib machine, auto striper single jersey
machine, auto striper double jersey machine, fully jacquard machine.
Circular Single jersey machine:-
It is a basic mechanical machine which has 120 feeders and could knit a fabric of 30 dia and
24 gauge.
Except for single jersey tha other fabric that could be made are- pique, honeycomb, terry, and
fleece. For making fleece fabric, poly cotton is used at the back and for making terry cotton is
used at the back.
Except for this mechanical single jersey machine the other single jersey machine is also
present which is of old mechanism. It has 90 feeders, the dia of the fabric it produces is less
and its output is also less as compared to that fabric which is made in the fully atomized new
type of circular machine.
Double jersey machine:-
There is loop formation on both sides that is knitting is done on both front as well as back.
There are different machines present in the same category which makes fabric of Dia 24”,
16” 20” and 34”. It has 60 feeders, gauge 18.
The different fabrics that are made in this machine are shepherd rib, French rib, interlock, and
waffle. At one time it can give a production of upto 20kgs.
For making double jersey, slub yarn is used in the front and normal yarn is used at the back.
Lycra Rib machine:-
It is also known as all needle knit machine, because all the needles knit in this machine. it is
used in making 1*1 rib or 2*2 rib etc. In this machine both cylinder and dial work at one
point.
Pique machine:-

34 | P a g e
In this the pique fabric is made. at nahar I saw that in this machine the striper was being
made. This machine is same as single jersey.
Auto striper machine:-
single jersey machine type: It has 48 feeders always. it makes the fabric of dia 30”. It can
make maximum 5 colored striper at one time. we can make any kind of striper on this
machine. The cones which contain the yarn are placed in such a manner on the pole in which
the striper is to be made. In auto striper the cutting line is already there.

Double jersey machine: It is available in dia 20 24 and 18. Cylinder could make 2 shades and
dial 1.
Fully automatic jacquard machine:- In this machine the mercerized yarn is used only. It is
also known as power flat machine. we can make fabric for garment body, tape, rib, cuff,
collar etc.
There are 30 power flat machine at Dhandhari unit and there are 20 mechanical flat machine.
Also there are 30-35 power flat machines present at Pearl unit in one hall.
At Dhandhari unit there are 100 circular machines installed.

DIFFERENT MACHINES AT THE KNITTING DEPARTMENT:

DHANDHARI UNIT, NAHAR

TYPE OF MACHINE
MODEL DIA GAUGE MACHINE COMPANY
OVJ 24 30 18 Interlock drum Mayer
jacquard Germany
H.3.F.F 30 20 Fleece Camber
England
Fleece 30 20 Fleece Camber
England
Fleece 30 20 Fleece Camber
England
Fleece 30 20 Fleece Camber
England
Fleece 30 20 Fleece Camber
England

35 | P a g e
Fleece 30 20 Fleece Camber
England
Fleece 30 20 Fleece Camber
England
Fleece 30 20 Fleece Camber
England
Fleece 30 20 Fleece Camber
England
H.3.F.F 30 20 Fleece Camber
England
MLBF 30 20 Fleece Mayer
Germany
FSB 3XSK 30 24 Sinker Falmac
Singapore
FSB 3XSK 30 24 Sinker Falmac
Singapore
FD-3XDK 30 24 Inter lock Falmac
Singapore
FD-3XDK 30 24 Inter lock Falmac
Singapore
LYK/60SP 30 20 Polar Juinniong
Taiwan
LYK/60SP 30 20 Polar Juinniong
Taiwan
LYK/60SP 30 24 Polar Juinniong
Taiwan
13P154 30 16 Interlock Laxhmi Terrot
S296 26 24 Sinker Laxhmi Terrot
13P154 30 16 Rib Laxhmi Terrot
KM3SV 30 20 Shearing Keumyong
Korea
KM3SV 30 20 Shearing Keumyong
Korea

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KM3SV 30 20 Shearing Keumyong
13P154 30 16 Interlock Laxshmi Terrot
S296 30 24 Sinker Laxhmi Terrot
VXC3.S 30 24 Sinker Fukuhara Japan
13P372 30 18 Interlock Laxhmi Terrot
13P372 30 20 Interlock Laxhmi Terrot
KM3SV 26 20 Shearing Keumyong
Korea
S4F 248 30 20 Sinker Auto Terrot Germany
Striper
S4F 248 30 20 Sinker Auto Terrot Germany
Striper
KDMJ 30 20 Interlock Mini Keumyong
Jacquard Korea
KDMJ 30 20 Interlock Mini Keumyong
Jacquard Korea
VXRXY 30 20 Sinker auto Fukhuhara
striper Japan
H.3.F.F 30 20 Fleece Camber
England
H.3.F.F 30 20 Fleece Camber
England
MBF 30 20 Fleece Mayer
Germany
TABLE 1.2; KNITTING CIRCULAR MACHINES

37 | P a g e
There is a particular method for ordering the yarn in case of striper of any type, engineered,
feeder or auto. This calculation is the work of merchandiser himself. the requirement of fabric
is placed separately for sampling and production merchandise in NAHAR. Once the sampling
is over and the order is final and production file is handled over, which contains the PDM,
Purchase Orders, a swatch of the different combinations to be made along with the flat knit
and the copy samples sent as well for the reference of the production merchandiser.
Depends upon the repeat.

Calculation of yarn requirement:

1 repeat

Composition:
Total: 4cm,
White: 3cm 75%
Grey: 0.6cm 15%
Blue: 0.4cm 10%
Now if garment weight is 540gms, then the yarn according to 580 gms is ordered, 5% is kept
extra and also 5% is ordered for the cuffs and the placket and other parts.
So, order for one unit would be as follows:
White= 75%of 540
Blue: 15% of 540
Grey: 10% of 540
And their quantity for one unit would be multiplied by number of units in total.

Fig no: 1

38 | P a g e
The gauge of the fabric depends upon the thickness of the yarn and also the GSM. The
heavier the GSM, the thicker the yarn, lesser the number of needles so lesser the gauge. As
number of yarns per inch would be less.

Calculation of Fabric requirement:

After the order has been finalised by the buyer and the purchase order is received, we know
the quantity to be produced and after the production merchandiser gets the production file he
carries forward the work with calculation of trims and accessories and fabric requirement.
the fabric requirement is calculated with the following method:
First measure the GSM of the fabric e.g the GSM is 28.8
now, if we take 1m length and 1 m breadth of that fabric, then the fabric we will get is
28.8 X 10= 288gms fabric.
We can take out one garment piece from this 288gms. now if we want to make 100 pieces,
we require 28800gms of fabric, i.e. 28.8 kg fabric.
28.8kg= 100pieces
1kg=3pieces

We have to include the wastage also, and the wastage would be 4%

approximately, 30kg fabric would be required
but in 1 kg we can take out 3 pieces so, in 30 kgs we will take out 90 pieces so in total, we
require 33kgs of fabric including the wastage.
While measuring the diameter, we will exclude the raw sides.

39 | P a g e
 Knitting:
After the FABRIC requirement is calculated as discussed above in figure no: 1, the same
requirement is placed at the knitting unit of NAHAR at dhandhari, i.e. its sister concern and a
swatch of the fabric is sent along so as to have the actual idea of which fabric is required.
At dhandhari there are flat knit as well as circular knit machines that are fully automatic
however there are some semi automatic knit machines as well.

The dying also takes place there only and so does the printing. after knitting when the fabric
is ready to be cut, it is sent to the NAHAR’S PRODUCTION UNIT by truck with a challan
which describes the following things:
lot# and brand, fabric type, no of rolls, weight, shade.

Offloading is done manually thorough the truck and is moved in with the help of trolleys and
bins.

P.12 Off loading from truck

P.13 Movement through bins and trolleys P.14

ACTUAL VIEW

40 | P a g e
 P.15 P.16

 Matching the height of the vehicle bed to that of the loading bay prevents
accident and unnecessary physical effort..
 A low lift pallet trolley is reliable safe and easy to operate for carrying heavy
loads a short distance with minimum elevation.

2 2.a

P.17
 Heavy and bulky rolls of cloth can easy be handled and carried using one long
rigid bar and a multipurpose trolley. Alternatively, one can use two shorter
wooden bars inserting one in each end of the roll.

The correct technique for lifting heavy rolls from a platform. The higher the level of roll
above the floor the less energy is required

In the factory the off loading was not being done on a lifted floor bed, but the grond floor was
much below as we can see in picture numb. 1. During movment of the rolls the wooden bars
were not inserted in the rolls so the movement due to the above two reasons required more
manual energy to be employed.
During the movement of the fabric rolls inside the fabric storage room, each roll being
weighed on the weighing machine.

41 | P a g e
 P.18 P.19

Weighing scale and weghing metre.

Yarn after weighing them, they are noted on the register.
Information feeded to the register:- The fabric roll number is noted down, The style
number for which the roll is to be used, The buyer name also and the weight of each
roll #wise and then the same information is noted on the register.
The whole system of challan and registering is according to ISO(9002)
example:
IZOD 10 ROLLS
MIDNIGHT
STYLE 1234
#8455 10KG

#8456 10.3KG

#8457 11KG

#8458 11.2KG

#8459 12KG

Table I.3 receive of fabric

A swatch of the same has to be attached to the page on which all the details of the roll
are written. The fabric of the same knit and GSM for example a same PK fabric of
white colour is received for 2 different brands like GAP or IZOD, is stored with the
ticket containing brand name for the specific rolls so that there is no mixing of the

42 | P a g e
 lots. In the fabric recieving department the ticket is attatched on which following
information is mentioned so that there is no problem in fabric tracking.
the fabric is stored on racks in the hall opposite to the cutting and storage hall where
the fabric is received however earlier it was stored there only.But now in this room
only the surplus fabric is kept at the back or in the front only the ready to cut fabric is
kept.

43 | P a g e
FABRIC CHECKING AND TESTING:
The fabric here in NAHAR is tested for shrinkage and G.S.M to verify that the received
fabric is as per the details mentioned in the purchase order.
3 fabric cards are maintained .One fabric card is sent to the buyer, one to the supervisor
of fabric department and one is kept filed within the department. This is done so that the
factory has a record of what all fabric has been sent for approval and what were the
details which were filed.
The fabric swatches are attached to the fabric card, the wash sample is attached to the
card and the G.S.M swatch is also attached to it and one swatch of original fabric is
attached to it. The original fabric shows reference to actual colour, GSM and DIA etc
required.
Shrinkage test is conducted to check the fabric, if according to the need or not. For this a
swatch of 50*50CM OR 25*25CM of the fabric is cut and the pattern of its dimensions is
made by marking boundry. then the fabric swatch is washed at 35-40 deg. or 38-41deg.
for 25-30 minutes. then squeezing is done inside the machine only and tumbled dry at 65-
70deg. for thick as well as thin fabric. the fabric is then cooled and relaxed and then the
swatch is again measured. Then it is checked if the fabric is within the tolerance level of
shrinkage. Method of calculating shrinkage =1X100/ original measurement.
original measurement could either be 25 or 50cm each side.
The shrinkage is also noted on the watch card. The fabric card contains all the details
regarding the GSM of the fabric, the DIA, the shrinkage and if the GSM is between
tolerances of -10 to +10 then it is accepted or else rejected.
There are many other tests which are conducted to check either garment or fabric; these
are:
1. Spectra light or digi light
2. Rubber fastness with crockmeter.
3. Dry cleaning and laundrometer- in both the tests the fabric is covered with cotton
on one side and wool on the other.
4. colour fastness to washing in non aric solution(lisapole) and for commercial use it
is washed in surf excel or lux soap.
5. wicking test: in this fabric swatch is put in the water beaker. Cut two pieces
vertically and horizontal. Clamp them to the rope and immerse upto 1cm from
bottom in water and keep for 20 minutes. If fabric starts getting wet above 1cm
this means fabric is pass and if travels upto 12cm the it is fail.
44 | P a g e
 6. torking and skewing test: measure side to side vertically and horizontally below
armhole and then shrug for 3-4 times. The change is then seen and points are
given according to the change is measurement.

P.20

Workers should be discouraged from working on the floor. Stable work tables and stools
should be provided.

45 | P a g e
MARKER MAKING AND GRADING:

Marker making in the industry in both manual method and through CAD system.
The markers are made in another sister concern of the industry 373 Industrial Area A.
The company has the pattern on hard board filed with it. These filed patterns are of the brands
it generally caters to and get the orders repeatedly on that type of fit.
There are separate patterns for separate brands.
The company makes generally stripers and solid colors so the markers and planned
accordingly. also, while sending the first of bulk sample, the patterns are sent along to the
buyer for the pattern approval also.
Markers are of two types
Open and closed marker

Grading is done with the help of CAD system.

After the patterns are made and the marker is made, the next step is of cutting.
but, in th industry it was observed that most of patterns which were being used, were thf iled
patterns, also during my course of internship the machine had some problem and due to non
availability of professional, it couldn’t be used so this shows, the wastage of equipments.
however, the marker planning for cutting was very well, and there was least wastage, untill
and unless it was a cut and sew garment.
In the industry, there were a lot of striper programmes in Chaps, and there were many
engeeniered stripes in IZOD, so marker planning was done for them also. The striper fabric is
however never cut in bulk, as the back and front stripe may slip.

46 | P a g e
 CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

After checking the fabric for all parameters and after the marker planning is complete and
approval is received on first of bulk, the fabric is sent for cutting to the cutting department.
The styles which are being cut in the hall are mentioned on the board along with the other
details. The format is as follows:
Fr.no Brand name Style# Colour shade Qty.

122 Chaps 141003 Nautical Navy 19,00

111 IZOD HO-1456 Kiwi 350

143 GAP HO-4321 Midnight sky 4500

Table I.4 Cutting Status chart

The tubular fabric is first cut from the sides in case it is a plaid fabric because the stripers
may not match form side to side.
the striper fabric is cut as one ply and not is bulk because their cutting is careful.

P.21
On the patterns say for stripers mainly the cutting of the fabric is also pasted which define the
direction of line and which assure the matching of the stripers on sleeve and bodice.

P.22 and P.23

The fabric board containing swatches of all the combos is hanged on the pillar next to the
tables. This gives reference to how many combos and what all combos have to be cut and
what is direction to lay their stripers.
6.c
47 | P a g e
 P.24
The plain fabric is cut as many plies.

P.25
The spreading of the fabric role is the most crucial in this room.
The patterns are kept as closed patterns in case of plain fabrics.
The patterns are placed at maximum convenience to the cutters that are very next to the
cutting tables.

P.26
ACTUAL VIEW
When bundles are being made then at that time each sub component is matched together:
 Arm with armhole, and the repeat also needs to be matched at sleeve as well
 Matching the sides of back and front together.
 Moon patch with back neck

48 | P a g e
 With the bundles the bundle card has to be attached as well. the bundle card contains the
following details i.e.

Bundle #
Size
Pieces
Style
Colour
Purchase order#
Operator#
Band knife#
Table I.5; Bundle card
8

P.27

GENERAL VIEW
The cutting is done with hand sheers, band knife and vertical straight knifes. For the styles
being made right now vertical straight knife and hand sheers were being used.
Vertical straight knife:- It is known as the work-horse of every unit. This consists of a
vertically up and down moving blade, a handle to hold the device, a motor to drive it.
Hand sheers:- This is the most widely used cutting equipment. It can cut 1 to two plies at one
time. It can cut any type of fabric.there two types of hand sheers availablein the market. Left
haded shares are also used because with right handed sheers the lines cannot be seen well by
a left handed person.the upper blade distorts the fabric and lower cuts it from within.

For cutting of initial block & rough cutting company has machines from Eastman, India and
for final cutting; company has machines from Westema, Germany.
In cutting room there are of machines used portable and stationary, these are;

49 | P a g e
1. Straight knife, manufacture by Eastman (India). In this machine the size of the knife
is 6 inch & 8 inches
2.Band knife, manufacture by Westema (Germany).
3.Servo cutter of Eastman also.
(a),(b) and (c) most electric or pressurised air operated cutting machine have
appropriate guards. It is however wise to olways wear a protective glove. This chain
mail(metal mesh) glove allow safe operation when cutting small garment parts.
9 9.a

P.28 and P.29

After cutting the cut parts are tied in bundles with all garment parts together and sent to the
sewing department in trolleys. Along with the bundles a bundle card is also attached which
gives the information about the size in the bundle, the style number of the same, and the
cutter name or number for the bundle. the cutter name is mentioned because if there is any
problem in cutting that particular person could be held responsible.

50 | P a g e
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

In an industry the production manager is responsible for all activities within the factory,
which include:

 Output of the factory

 Garment quality
 Working methods and technology
 Materials and trim purchasing
 Labor recruitment and training
 No reworks and fuller utilization of time

The production manager is involved in the day-to-day administrative work required to keep
the factory running. Overheads have to be kept to the absolute minimum and specialized
services are provided by external agencies such as sewing machine mechanics, general
maintenance services and accountants to increase productivity.
In the making of a garment the following steps are involved, once the style has crossed all the
stages of sampling and approvals:

After the TOP is sent the actual production starts, no comments are waited for on the TOP
SAMPLE as it is just a final look of the garment:
there are various sewing machines present in the industry’s production hall.
The steps included in production of a garment are:

KNITTED FABRIC

CUTTING FUSING

STITCHING

INITIAL CHECKING

PRESSING

FINAL CHECKING

51 | P a g e
 ….
FOLDING

PACKING

DISPATCH

52 | P a g e
 Production flow of a full sleeves Mock Neck sweatshirt with half zipper: brand izod

ISSUE W/D ENTRY

ON COUNTER

Shoulder attachment with flatlock machine

collar attatchment kacha zip attachment and collar folded and

placed on back of zip

zipper placket overlocked from

inside

Top stitch on zip and collarr

Side vent and label only in case side vent of

original fabric, make 3 folds

sleeve attatch with overlock

machine.

Side seaming

cuff attachment

cuff flatlock

hemming of front and then back

53 | P a g e wash care label attachment

 Recieval on computer

Bundles counted

Logo embroidery

Primary checking, for stain removal and

any cut on garment or hole.

To check for holes they are put on dummies kept in the checking area
which are meant for detecting holes only under specific light

54 | P a g e
STITCHNING MACHINES: They have single needle lock stitch machine, edge trimmer,
button holing button stitching, eyelet machines& feed up machines from JUKI, Japan. We
also four thread & five thread over lock machines from PEGASUS, Japan & YAMATO,
Japan. Following is a list of our machinery:

DETAIL OF STITCHING MACHINES:

Name & Manufacture Type Model Total No’s

Single needle DDL 5530,N

Tailoring m/c from DDL 8300 1188
JUKI & BROTHER, Fully DDL 8700-7
Japan computerize DDL 5550 N-3

Double needle DB2-B737-413 19

machine LH-3128
LH-3168

Folding m/c from Three needle M 652-13,2x4

PEGASUS & Machine M 752-13,2X4 348
YAMATO, Japan M 852-13,2X4
M 632-13,2X4
M 732-13,2X4

Button holing m/c from LBH 1790 15

JUKI & BROTHER, LBH 1700
Japan LH 4-B 800-E2

Buttoning m/c from LK-1903 16

JUKI & BROTHER BE-438 B
Japan.
Table I.6; list of sewing machine types

55 | P a g e
In the production hall, the workers are watched by a supervisor, there is a head supervisor
who looks over all machines and there is supervisor for each line as well who work under
these supervisors.

The daily production is recorded through the SAP system and the merchandiser takes the
review after every 8 hour, by checking the production status report which he recieves.

There are fusing machines present within the hall only, on which the moon patch is pressed
by inserting the template and then the extra sides are cut, also the HT label is pasted on the
moon patch through this machine only.

The checking is also done within the hall on a separate side, the production space and
checking space are separated, we can see this in the layout given on next page. the checking
is for stains, holes and other minor defects. The stains are removed with benzene guns and the
station for the same is also situated in the hall

The different samples which all have to be sent are not made in this hall; they are made in the
sample hall. There are separate hall for each brand and their checking is also done separately
in their respective halls.

The merchandiser and administrative block is built in such a manner with glass doors so that
the administration could look over the hall and ensure and correct working. there is a lift in
the building to move the fabric part and garment parts and finished garment from on floor to
the other.

In the production hall generally the assembly system is followed and there is a pallet running
along between 2 lines where the workers keep their extra threads and other things but the
garment parts and garment after operation is done is kept in a bin kept aside the worker’s
machine.

According to ergonomics picking and dropping the garment parts and garment respectively
from one side saves energy of the worker as the movement is towards one side only.

The bins are kept within his comfort area as per ergonomics as well.

While keeping the bins and other required thing along the worker and while arranging his
table and tools the principle of MISCHURN is taking care of.

56 | P a g e
FINISHING DEPARTMENT:

CHECKING AND MENDING

After all the steps have been completed of production of garment and attachment of
components and accessories, the garments are then sent for stain removal and then primary
checking. the checking is done manually. In stain removal the stains of oil, dust, chalk marks
or any other stain. and the benzene guns are used to remove the stains. Sometimes the
markings of the chalks are quite visible even after the washing, or there are chances of dirt
existing on the garment surface or any kind of spot which is not acceptable has to be
removed. The method used in firm is spraying different kinds of chemicals directly on the
spot through guns. Following is the list of chemicals used to remove the spots

Source of spot Chemical used to remove it

Pen Acetone
Black spot Tipole
Rust Dimethyl formamide
Pencil/ dirt dust Benzene
Table I.7; types of spots and chemicals to remove them

P.30

the garment is also checked for the holes and other stitching defaults. For this the
dummy is used on which the garment is put under specific light.

57 | P a g e
If there is any kind of hole in the garment then, it is sent to the mender for mending.

P.31
The checker number ticket is attached to the garment before it moves further to the
mending department. This is to know that who checked the garment or spotted its
fault. The mending is done then by attaching stitches.

P.32 P.33
The garment is then pressed and sent for final inspection. After that the garments are
sent for attachment of tags and labels. The tags and labels for the garments of the
particular brand are issued to whom.

58 | P a g e
FINISHING AND PRESSING:

Most if the garment programmes in the industry and unwashed programmes. So the garment
is sent directly to steam press department. The pressing is also done in-house in a separate
hall. There is good air ventilation in the pressing hall and ducting too so that there is no
humidity in the hall to make the workers suffocated. Steam press is the method used for
finishing. These steam press are run on boilers.
The types of pressing done could be as follow:
CATEGORIES OF PRESSING: It is useful to divide garments into categories according to
the amount and type of pressing they require.
1. Garment which require no pressing: This categories includes bras and other
foundation garment, stretch swim wear and dance wear, and items of innerwear.
2. Garments which require minimal pressing or finishing: This category includes
single ply garments such as slips and night gowns often in knitted synthetic, T-shirts and
other knitted leisurewear, and some laundered and garment dyed products.
3. Garments which require the use of an iron in under pressing and final pressing:
For the opening of seams and the creasing of edges and for pressing garments with gathers
and fullness, and in situations where style change is frequent, pressing with an iron is
common because it is simple and flexible.
4. Garments which require extensive under pressing and final pressing: This
category includes garments, which require the pressing open of seams and the setting of
edges during manufactures. It includes men’s jackets, trousers and waistcoats, many skirts,
women’s tailored jackets and trousers, and other lined rainwear.
Pressing makes a large contribution to the finished appearance of garments and their
attractiveness at the point of sale. The need to press garments during and at the end of their
production is a basic requirement in orders to shape and finish them.
Steam and heat are necessary to relax the fabric and make it pliable enough to be
molded by manipulation. The combined effect of steam and heat is to slightly soften the fiber
structure so that it can take in an alternative shape.
The purpose of pressing is given below:
1. To smooth away unwanted crease and crush makes; in garment manufacture, crease
and crushing occur where garments are handled between operations in bundles,
whether tied up tightly or piled on trolleys or in boxes.

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 2. To make creases where the design of the garment requires them. Creases are obvious
design features in trousers and skirts (where a series of creases is often to as pleating)
and some collar styles.
3. To mould the garment to the contour of the body.
4. To prepare garments for further sewing.
5. To refinish the fabric after manufacturing the garment.

Measurement checking is also a part of finishing;

Generally all the measurements of the garments are checked. In case of T-shirts the major
parameters are the sleeve length, collar, chest, shoulder length etc.
The difference in measurements at this stage can be due to the poor production practices or
the shrinkage occurred during the washing. The garments which are not acceptable are
rejected.
Various defects that occur in the garment due to which rejection occurs and their causes and
prevention measures are given below:

NAME OF THE CAUSES PREVETION

DEFECT

Wrong placket attachment Negligence Proper marking

Wrong collar attachment Unskilled operator Trained operator

Label placement No marking Proper marking

Mismatch cuff attachment Cutting problem Patterns to cut as per

measurement

Loose over lock Machine tension Increase SPI

Uneven armhole Unskilled operator Trained operator

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 Increase SPI and tighten the
Loose stitch Machine tension tension of needle thread

Slip stitch Improper m/c handling m/c checking time to time

Misplace button hole and No marking Marking to be done

button

Roped button fold Improper material handling Trained operator

Slit end alignment Negligence Guidelines to operator

Color variation on collar Negligence in fabric Fabric to be checked

checking properly
Table I.8; types of visual defects

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PACKING AND LABELING:
After finishing the garment is sent to packing and labeling section. Here the garment is
labeled as according to the labels mentioned in the PDM. For some brands, the labels and
tags may be bilingual and some brands require that the labels should be made in different
languages for different countries. So while labeling it is taken care that the correct label is
being attached. The price ticket is also attached carefully.
The garment package program could be either

 garment fold programme

 hanger pack programme

 dead man fold

The following measurements are checked in the labeling department, length, chest under
armhole, and neck size so that the correct size label is attached to the garment.

P.34 P.35
After checking the size and attaching label for the same, the garment is fold pressed if it is a
fold pack process and if it is a hanger pack program, it is hanged on the hanger. and after this
the next step is packing in the poly bag. Generally the brand name is printed on the poly bag,
this may also be bilingual.
There are many tags and labels which are attached to the garment. The details of the tags and
labels to be attached is given in the PDM and along with the name of the supplier from whom
these have to be supplied form, the name and code of the label, the quantity per piece, the
description and the picture. this is known as the trims and accessories sheet.

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Sr.no Name of trim Picture Description/ Supplier name Qty.
Code

1. UPC ticket PT110002 Power concept, 1

honking

2. Buttons BT 13455 Power concept 3

Logo embossed honking
button

3. Main label MN 13953 1

4. Price tag PC 20111 1

5. Wash care label WC 201111 1

Table I.9; trims and accessories s heet

Some trims are given ahead for different brands

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After the garment is fully packed the next step is packing in the cartons.
The carton size is generally given by the buyers and these boxes are often bilingual. The box
weight is also defined by the buyer, or the shipment agency.
On the carton the following details are written:
The lot#
The style#
The brand name
Country name
PO#
The dimensions of the box

The dimensions of the carton are given in the Product development module, and even this is
mentioned that the carton is to be of what ply. The number of pieces to be packed in the
carton and the ratio of colors in one carton is also mentioned.

In case solid packing is to be done then in one carton only one color or sometimes even only
one size is to be packed. Sometimes ratio is given of color by color or size by size. The
packing list has all the information of the voyage, the vessel number and name, the actual
price need to be paid, the letter of credit, the purchase order numbers, etc. It is in disguise a
bill of the shipment.
Along with the shipment various documents are to be made and while booking of the vessel
too.

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Conclusions:

Uptill now I have studied about the departments related to apparel production which are
being used in the industry. As I am working under Mr. Umesh ( Industrial Engineer), he is
guiding me at every step. There’s a alot of scope of improvement in the industry, for my
project I will be considering process Re-engineering to increase the productivity in the
departments of apparel production. In the coming week I will be starting off with my project
and method study used for the same.

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