Trouble Shooting Continuous Thermosol
Dyeing Of Polyester Fiber And Blends
Technical Sales Development Manager,
Crompton & Knowles Colors, Inc., Charlotte, NC
Introduction
Continuous thermosol dyeing of
polyester fiber and polyester/cotton
blends with disperse dyes came into its
own in the early 1950s as textile mills
began using more of these fabrics in
place of 100 percent cotton. It provides
a means of attaching the dye without
exhausting color onto the fabric and at
one-third the cost. In this process, which
applies the dye by a padder, the fabric is
gradually dried and heated to tempera-
tures of 400 to 430°F for 90 seconds,
depending upon the energy needs of
the disperse dye in use.
While the influx of imports has led to
a decline in the use of continuous ther-
mosol dyeing, it is still particularly popu-
lar for a number of applications such as
apparel, workwear, home furnishings
and industrial fabrics. Over the years
techniques have been perfected for
optimizing its use and avoiding pitfalls
that can still be encountered. Here are
recommendations that should help
achieve good success with the process.
Process criteria
Poor Fabric Preparation: This is
probably the single biggest cause of
problems. Be sure to follow recom-
mended preparation procedures. Skimp-
ing on preparation usually ends up cost-
ing dyers twice the amount they saved
in terms of lightfastness deficiencies,
excessive crocking, color bleeding,
unlevel dyeings and side/center/side
shading.
Improper Dye Weighing And Make-
up: Disperse dye mixes must be proper-
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By Larry Bright
Larry Bright
ly stirred and strained. Specking can
occur if dye has been stored for a while
and dries out on the side of the drum or
if it is not stirred properly before weigh-
ing. Dye that is not properly protected
can also grow moles which cause its
molecular size to change. Reliable dye
manufacturers incorporate a herbicide
in their products to control this problem.
The water used in dye mix makeup
should not be hotter than 12O'F, and the
mixer should be run slowly at all times.
Never subject disperse colors to live
steam which can cause dispersion
break-down or low cloud points. This in
turn can cause specks, unlevel dyeing
or dye separation from other colors in
the bath.
Commingling Dyes From Different
Suppliers: It is important to use dyes
from the same supplier in the color com-
binations to help assure that the disper-
sion systems are the same and that
they will be compatible. The plant con-
trol laboratory should make quality
checks to verify compatibility and take
speck tests of color combinations.
Excessive Amounts Of Salt And
Antimigrants: Excessive amounts of
these agents used to control migration
tend to reverse the appearance and
migration of the fabric as well as build
up on the machinery. Amounts of each
in the range of 15 g/l are normally suff-
cient. In the dyeing of 100 percent poly-
ester, add a thickener with antimigrant
to insure even pickup and good appear-
ance.
With the use of Disperse Blue 60 or
Reactive Turquoise, common salt in the
presence of static electricity from fabric
will sometimes precipitate the dye in the
padder. If this happens, find a means of
discharging the static before the dye
enters the padder or do not use salt.
Adverse Effect Of Acetic Acid: If
acetic acid is used as the pH control, it
can create sodium acetate in the pres-
ence of highly alkaline fabrics which
tends to reduce the yield of some dis-
perse colors. The use of MSP instead of
acetic acid for pH control is recom-
mended.
The pH of the thermosol dye batch
should be in the 5.5 range to obtain the
best yield of disperse colors and should
remain constant during the run. A pH
American Dyestuff Reporter August 1996 1
 below that range can cause problems
with the dispersions, antimigrants and
wetting agents: above it the dye yields
may deteriorate or the shade may
become duller due to scorching of the
cotton fabric.

Improper Dye Selection: Low energy

disperse colors usually have limited
fightfastness and poor sublimation
when thermosoling and can contami-
nate the oven. Selection of disperse
dyes in the medium to high energy level
range give the best results in the contin-
uous thermosol process (Figure 1).
Certain surfactants used in some dyes
have been known to burn during the
thermosol process and leave a dark
residue on the fabric. Discuss this with
your dye supplier.
from one side to the other. Select the a direct air flow on one side of the
Improper Clearing Of Stains: A com-
proper energy-level disperse colors fabric only.
mon mistake is to assume that a sulfur or
a vat procedure will provide even removal and make sure the nips on the
of disperse color stains which is a neces- washer are even.
Conclusions
sary part of the process. The keys to pre-
In addition, don’t use too much salt A basic understanding of the contin-
venting re-deposits after the removal pro-
or antimigrant (30 g/l is usually the max- uous thermosol process and regular
cedure are water flow, temperature and
imum for each), keep damp fabric from attention to small but important details
use of the proper dispersant.
coming to the machine or entering like these will pay off in consistently
If the surfactants used in the removal
of unfixed dye or disperse stain are not the oven, and do not place a fan or have good results.
free-rinsing, they will carry color to the
final drying cans and cause drying of
the unfixed color on the surface of the
fabric. This, in turn, can lead to poor
cold water bleed and poor light fast-
ness, even if initial crock test results are
acceptable.

Wear Of Wash Boxes And Nips:

Don’t overlook the maintenance of wash
boxes and nips which will wear over
time. This is especially important in
achieving deep shades.

Common problems
Two common problems encountered
by some in continuous thermosol dye-
ing with disperse colors are dye spots
and side center shading. The following
are suggested practices for avoiding
them or eliminating them once they
Occur.
To avoid dye spots, stir the dye
well before using and strain through
a micron strainer. Dilute the dye with
warm water before straining and be
sure the strainer is clean.
TO avoid side center shading,
follow these practices. Maintain an
even oven temperature within 5
degrees from side center side. Avoid
uneven predryer burning or heat

American Dyestuff Reporter August 1996 Circle 35 on Reader Service Card 61