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189
BUTTONS Selection
Button selection depends on the type and style
Buttons can be fascinating, functional, and of the garment. Buttons should be selected
BEFORE making buttonholes or button loops.
fashionable. They are fascinating because of their
many sizes, shapes, colors, and designs. They are Consider the following when making your
functional because they are one of the major selection:
methods of opening and closing garments. Buttons
are fashionable because they also decorate and $ The pattern will have a suggested size which
enhance apparel & other items. was determined as the pattern was being
made. If the button size is changed, so must
the size of the button and buttonhole placket.
$ Weight of fabric B Heavy fabric needs
heavier and larger buttons; lighter fabric
needs lighter and smaller buttons.
$ Fabric design B Buttons can blend with the
History fabric OR they can call attention to the area.
The term is from the French word, bouton , To call attention to the area use solid colored
meaning a round object. Since the 13 th
century, buttons on prints and patterned buttons on
buttons have been used as fasteners. Before that, solid color fabrics.
they were used more for their decorative and
symbolic value.
Buttons should :
$ Fit the purpose for which they are
$ Match or contrast buttons to the fabric. You intended B functional or decorative.
can be creative by selecting contrasting $ Be securely fastened with double thread
buttons. and neat stitches.
$ If at all possible, use an odd number since $ Have a shank (thread and/or as part of the
this is more interesting than an even number.
button) to accommodate the fabric
$ Generally speaking, if you cannot match the
thickness when closure is fastened. The
button color, select a slightly darker color.
button should rest just above the
Styles buttonhole when fastened.
There are a variety of button styles such as:
$ see-though
$ fabric covered
$ ball and half ball dome
$ irregular shapes and sizes $ Be reinforced, according to their use and
the fabric type, with interfacing and/or
another button.
Covering Buttons
In certain situations, a covered button is the
button of choice. Covered buttons lend a very
tailored and/or expensive look to a suit, dress Sewing
or gown. Sometimes the right button color or are one of the last items to be sewn to
Buttons
texture cannot be found. Thus, covered the garment. They are applied after the
buttons can and do fit the closure need. buttonholes or loops have been made or
attached. Here are some other considerations:
When covering buttons, they must be neat and
$ Pulling the hand sewing thread through
well constructed. Kits are available with
beeswax before starting helps prevent
directions. However, here are some hints:
tangles when hand sewing.
$ If a washable fabric is being used,
$ Use topstitching, buttonhole thread, or
dampen the fabric slightly after it has
carpet thread to sew on buttons, especially
been cut from the pattern. The fabric will
on heavier fabrics.
be easier to handle and mold to the button
$ If the holes in flat buttons are large
form.
enough, tie the button to the garment
$ When using sheer or lightweight fabrics;
using narrow ribbon or cord. This is
fuse fabric to a lining before covering the
recommended if using buttons that must
button. This will give it a bit more body
be removed before cleaning.
and prevent the form from showing
$ Sew flat four-hole buttons in a decorative
through when covered.
stitching pattern such as X, 9 , or tulip
formation.
Placement
functional $ buttons
All must have a shank.
Patterns are designed for a specific button
The shank length (real and/or thread)
size
should measure the thickness of the fabric
that is stated on the back of the pattern
layers through which it will be buttoned.
envelope under “Notions”. The
The button sits above the fabric; a thin
button/buttonhole placket and the center line
shank can fit in the buttonhole.
(Figure 1)
mark have been specifically designed with
this size in mind. If a different size button is
used, adjustments must be made to the placket
before the garment is cut in order to maintain
the proper fit of the garment. Unless you are
Figure 1
an experienced sewer and understand how
this in done, use the size button recommended When the button is for decoration , sew
onlyit
on the pattern. tothe
Buttons
buttonhole.
buttons
$ Buttons
marking
etc.)are
are
as attached
indicated
are
placed
Buttonholes
(center
sewninto
front,
on
accordance
onthe
the
the
must
center
garment.
pattern.
center
be back,
with
made
linethe
cuff,
before
$$Do
Hide
the
Catch
not
button
the
3sew
only
knotathe
OR garment
thread
and
the
(Figure
button
between
facing.
securing
orall
2)twoflatBno
the
the threads
of
fabric
way shank.
thethrough
facing.
layers.
under
shanks to prevent the built-on shanks from
stretching (springing) the buttonhole. The
purpose of a button shank is to raise the
button above and through the hole so that it
Figure 2
sits above the buttonhole.
Button shanks
Bbuilt-on or threadBmust be small and thin.
By Hand - Buttons without built-on shank If a longer shank is needed, add an object or
Use a double strand of either all-purpose, provide some Agive@ in the thread as the
topstitching, or buttonhole thread. Beginbutton on is being stitched to the garment. Stitch
the center line marking. through the fabric, interfacing and button
Step 1 - Secure beginning thread with a knotshank 6 times. Secure as you do a button
or a couple of stitches between the folds of without a build-on shankBsee directions
fabric. Hide the knot or clip any loose above.
threads that may show.
Step 2 - Bring the thread up to the right side By Machine
Buttons without
B built-on
of the fabric and through a hole in the shank
button. Thread it back through an adjacentSome sewing machines may be equipped to
hole. sew on 2- or 4-hole buttons. Check the
Step 3 - Pull the thread allowing for a sewing machine manual for specific
sufficient thread shank (use toothpick, shank information and directions. Remember that
gauge, pin, or leave give) between the buttonfunctional buttons require a shank. Therefore,
and the fabric. make provisions to sew over Aan object@ to
Step 4 - Go into the first layer of fabric and make the needed shank.
the interfacing, picking up several threads of
the facing. Slant needle toward the same
general location where thread came up
through the fabric to the right side. (This will
help create a “thin” rather than thick thread
shank.)
Step 5 - Continue stitching in the same place
for approximately 6 stitches. (Figure 3) Figure 4
Step 6 - If a toothpick, shank gauge, or pin
was used to form the thread shank, remove BUTTONHOLES
it, and pull the button to the top of the
thread. Wind thread around the stitches Buttonholes are companions to buttons when
under the button. (Figure 3) Secure thread a button
at and buttonhole closure is the desired
the bottom of the thread stem. method to open and close a garment. Their
size, shape, and placement depend on the
button. Therefore, buttons must be purchased
before any consideration can be give to the
buttonholes.
By Hand
Buttons
thickness
large
Figure 3built-on
with
of
BButtons
the
ashanks
shank
shank.
with
require
vary
Buttons
built-on
byadditional
size
with
and
shank
thick
Buttons
thread
or must4 be purchased beforecan buttonholes
be made.
Standards buttonhole made on the sewing machine
In addition to the standards previously listed with a special attachment or a built-in
for both buttons and buttonholes, the pattern on the machine that must be
following apply. selected.
-Hand-worked
a thread-lipped buttonhole
Well-constructed buttonholes should be : made by hand or first worked on the
$ Flat and attractive. machine and then finished with hand
$ Made with the grain of the fabric, unless a stitching.
bias-cut garment or unusual design - used
In-seam
when the garment design
dictates otherwise. has an appropriate seam that can be left
$ An equal distance from the garment edge open (unstitched) to accommodate the
and in conjunction with the center line or button.
lap line. - cordLoops
or small fabric strips used
$ Sized according to the button size, button with buttons to connect garment pieces.
thickness and the fabric thickness. They are frequently used with ball and
$ The same length and width throughout the dome-shaped buttons.
area. - a fabric-lipped
Bound buttonhole used
in tailored garments.
Figure 5
Figure 7
• Buttonholes are usually placed on the
right front of women=s garments and the
left front of men=s. If buttons are placed
on the left back of the garment,
placement will vary according to the
Figure 10
design.
$ Horizontal buttonholes begin c-inch out
in the overlap beyond the center marking
and extend back into the body of the
garment.
$ The maximum distance for small buttons
and the minimum distance for large
buttons to the front edge of the garment is
Figure 8
¼-inch. Half of the diameter of the button
• Spacing
size of(such
fabric
flower).button,
is determined
as and
plaid,
thestripe,
bydesign
stress
orofpoints,
the is standard
6 for (Figure
medium11)and large buttons.
Figure 11
Determining Size $ Basting stitches (hand or machine) to
The size of the buttonhole for most buttons is show where to begin, end, as well as the
determined by measuring the diameter of the placement of the buttonhole.
button, plus the button thickness, plus c-inch. $ Transparent tape to mark where to
begin, end, and where to place the
buttonhole.
$ Fabric marking pen (washable - be sure
to check on a fabric scrap).
$ Pins.
$ Soap slivers on washable fabric.
Be sure the markings are on-grain. Mark
Figure 12 appropriately for horizontal or vertical
Some exceptions to this formula are: buttonholes.
1. Very small buttons where less length is
needed. Making a sample is an important step to insure
2. Dome or round buttons. To determine the appropriate length of the buttonhole.
buttonhole size for a ball button, place a
string around the button, remove, and
fold in half. Machine-worked
Sewing B Buttonholes
3. Fabric-covered buttons of heavy fabrics When making a machine or hand-worked
where more length is needed. To savebuttonhole, the garment should be finished.
wear and tear on buttonholes, they need The last two steps are the buttonholes and
to be large enough for buttons to slip buttons.
through, but small enough to prevent
unbuttoning during wear. Refer to your sewing machine manual for
specific directions on how buttonholes can be
Interfacing made by your machine. It may be necessary to
Both the buttonhole and button areas of theprotect the fabric when slipping it in and out
garment should be interfaced to stabilize the from under the presser foot or buttonhole
fabric and to prevent stretching. attachment.
Prepared by Nadine Hackler, Associate Professor Extension Clothing Specialist. First Published:
1985 Revised
Permission to December
use granted1998.
by the Institute of Food & Agriculture Sciences, University of Florida,
Gainesville, Florida.
Adapted for use in Kentucky by:
Linda Heaton, Ph.D., Extension Specialist for Clothing & Textiles
April 2004
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of
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Revised
Marjorie
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reproduced
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originor its 9 .