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WELCOME TO A fundraising event of

BOULDERING

101 JULY 21 & 28, 2018


9:30AM-2:00PM
@ POWER UP TANDANG SORA
Coverage
u Types of Climbing
u Wall Angles, Gears, Boulder Etiquette
u Climbing Styles
u Proper Falling Techniques
u Warming up, Fundamental Movements and Techniques
u Climb time! How to apply technique to problems
u Training Workouts
u Recover! Recover!
u Mental Training
What is Lead Climbing?
• Lead Climbing is a technical and advanced
form of rope climbing. Can be classified as
’sport climbing’ and ’traditional climbing’
• Gears required for this: harness and shoes,
ropes, and draws
• The wall height ranges from 20 feet or higher.
For safety, draws are placed strategically along
the wall to anchor the ropes.
• Lead climbing works the endurance and
teaches climbing efficiency.

Climber Dru Robles, Photo from Climb Philippines


What is Speed Climbing?
• A form of indoor rock climbing where
athletes compete for the fastest time to the
top of the climbing wall.

• The competition takes places on a


standardized climbing wall, and the same
holds and route and used each time for
consistency across competition.
What is Bouldering?
• A type of climb that does not require a rope or
harness. The wall or the problems usually reach
up to 15 feet, provided with bouldering mats to
prevent injuries from falls.
• Originally, it was a training method to practice
specific moves at a safe distance.
• Bouldering requires the ability to execute
extremely difficult technical moves in a short
period of time
The Gears
Rock Shoes
are specialized footwear for rock climbing. The difference? Sticky rubber on a shoe specially
designed for more sensitivity on the soles.

Toe-down/Aggressive type Slip-ons/ Flat shoes type


toe down for pockets or toe up for edging. More sensitive and flexible. Mostly used
These are available in Velcro or Lace-up shoes for gym climbing and generally more
to be worn tight. comfortable.
Ideal for harder routes, projects, competition Ideal for beginners, who wants comfort
The Gears
Chalk bag/Chalk

Climbing Brush
Bouldering Etiquette
• Bouldering beyond 12 feet is not allowed. Cave bouldering
for beginners is not recommended but if you have to,
make sure you have is a spotter to spot you in case you fall.
• Keep a safe distance when a climber is on the wall working
a problem.
• Try to take turns working on a route, don’t be a wall hog.
• Do not forget to bring socks if you will be renting rock shoes.
• The instructors are there to assist you, and help teach you
how to climb. They are not your belay slaves.
Climbing Styles
Dynamic Climbing

Static Climbing
Types of Wall Angles

SLAB VERTICAL OVERHANGING


Types of Holds
• JUG
• SLOPER
• CRIMP
• PINCH
• JIB
• POCKETS
• FEATURES
• VOLUMES
Proper Falling
• DROP AND ROLL
• ARMS AND FEET CLOSE TO BODY
• SPOT ASSISTANCE
Fundamental Movements
1. Proper Warm-up
• Jumping Jacks
• Squats
• Lunges
• Windmills
• Leg swing
• Calf raise
• Hips and knee rotation
• Hand close - open
Fundamental Movements
2. Grip & Footwork Positioning
Hands and Feet Technique

• Heel and Toe Hook • Mantling


• Twist – in • Bump
• Cross hands and feet • Lay - Back
• Rock Over • Drop knee and back step
• Match Hands and • Dropping weight or dead
Feet hang
• Stemming • Lock off
Fundamental Movements
3. Body Positioning

A. Shift weight on Footholds & Handholds


B. Compression
C. Stretch Out
D. Creating Momentum
Fundamental Movements
4. Putting it all together:

ROUTE READING
- Learning to combine the basic techniques in
order to climb efficiently
ROUTE READING
The “V” Grading
System
Conditioning for Bouldering
PROPER BREATHING
- When climbing, don’t forget to breathe!
- Finding a breathing rhythm
• This eases tension through crucial points in
climb
• However, holding breath for a short
period of time can engage the core
Training Workouts
UPPER BODY STRENGTH

Pull–ups
• Negative Pull-ups (Alternative)
• Banded Pull-ups (Alternative)

Frenchies
• For strengthening lock offs

*Do 1 set of 5 reps to test your limit first. Increase intensity only when workout is
mastered
Training Workouts
LOWER BODY STRENGTH

Squats
• Regular
• Archer (For rock-over position)

Hip lifts / Bridge pose


- For dynamic moves
*Do 1 set of 5 reps to test your limit first. Increase intensity only when workout is
mastered
Training Workouts
CORE STRENGTH FINGER STRENGTH
Planks Hangboard
• Full and Half • Dead Hangs
• Side

Leg Raises *Do 1 set of 5 reps to test your limit first.


Increase intensity only when workout is mastered
• Full and V
*For planks, try 10 to 15 seconds. Then increase after
Recovery
Focus on Stretching these parts

Head and Neck


Shoulder
Arms
Sides of body
Hips and Legs
Ankles and Feet
Recovery
Injury Prevention & Common
Climbing Injuries

A. Supporting Equipment
• Sports tape
• Compression Garments
• Medicine ball
• Foam Rollers

B. The importance of knowing when


to recover
- The dangers of “agit” mode
Mental Training
How to keep your cool?

A. Committing moves
1. Don’t let go – move with intention to finish
2. Set your position – balance before making a move.
“Get close to the wall” by pushing hips closer to the
wall
3. ONE MORE MOVE!
4. Plan ahead/ Visualize/ Read the route (use of laser
pointer) Move around; Break it down, Read and
move (but not at the same time)
BOULDERING BORN
101 READY TO
CLIMB!
Thank you!!!

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