702 Panel Coat Dress - The Princess Line

Sewing Pattern by Angela Kane

Instructions

eBook

All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

 About this Sewing Pattern
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SEWING OVER PINS - WEAR EYE PROTECTION
PIN AT RIGHT ANGLES - SEW SLOWLY - ALWAYS USE A SHARP NEEDLE
SEWING RULE - START EACH GARMENT WITH A NEW MACHINE NEEDLE
************************************************************

This sewing pattern will introduce you Introduction to the

to the Princess Line. A semi-fitted Princess Seam
coat-dress can be worn on its own,
over a dress, over a jumper and
knitted tights, over jeans. Worn
buttoned up, open or belted.
Team this garment with many items in
your wardrobe for smart wear or
casual days, you will never tire of Easy solution
making up this style. for pockets
Make it up in woven wool, wool crepe,
suitings, denim, corduroy, leather, silks
and more.
Welt pocket can be tricky for the
beginner so the side panel pocket
featured is a great solution.
This pattern will also introduce you to Learn how to
the centre back vent, an essential incorporate a
lesson useful for tailored jackets and centre back vent
pencil skirts.
I hope you enjoy making up this
pattern again and again.

Page 2 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

 ALL THE PIECES TO BE USED IN THIS PATTERN

FACINGS
MAIN Back
& LININGS Front
Back FABRIC Front

Side
Side Front Back Front
Back

Side
Front

Side
Lower Back
Side
Front

Pocket
Pocket
INTERFACINGS Armhole

Neck Line

Page 3 Front Opening All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

PREPARE - IRON ON THE INTERFACING KEY

Right Side Main

Iron Interfacing to wrong side of main pieces around armhole, Fabric RS
neck and front edges and also top of pocket.
Wrong Side Main
Fabric WS

Right Side Lining

Fabric RS

Wrong Side
Lining Fabric WS

Interfacing
Fabric

Page 4 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

PREPARE LINING JOIN LINING PIECES

Cut away lining vent as Pin and baste lining

shown on lining left backs together along
back. centre back. clip
Cut away Stitch to . single
Tailor tack accurately layer
back vent guide dots. left vent lining
wrong
Stay-stitch just unside
side
the seam line.
Pin, baste,
stitch

lining
right side

Tailor tack ’s

clip seam

press
seam
open
stay-stitch
lining
stay-stitch wrong clip seam
side

lining
right side

Page 5 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

JOIN LINING PIECES continued JOIN FACING BACK TO LINING BACK

Pin and baste Back Side Lining to

Pin and baste Facing Back
Lining Back, matching notches.
to Lining Back, matching
Stitch, clip seams along curves and
centre fronts and notches
press open
to seam lines
Clip and grade seam
allowance
Press seam down towards
lining
Pin, baste, stitch
Pin, baste, stitch

Stay-stitch lower edge of

back facing, within the
seam allowance, without
stretching.

Stay-stitch

Page 6 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

JOIN FACING FRONT TO LINING FRONT
Pin and baste Lining Front to Facing
Front, right sides together, carefully
matching the curve. Clipping seam
Pin and baste Lining Front to
allowance where necessary, to
Lining Side Front matching
allow matching of the curve.
notches.
Stitch, trim, clip curves and Press seam
press open. Pin, baste, stitch down and
towards lining.
Press down
Pin, baste, stitch

Stay-stitch lower edge of

Front Facing as shown.

Stay-stitch

Page 7 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

JOIN FACING FRONT TO FACING BACK

Pin and baste Facing Front to

Facing Back at shoulders, right
sides together, matching notches. Pin, baste, stitch
Stitch, trim and press open.

Page 8 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

FORM POCKET IN SIDE FRONT

Pin and baste top edge of Trim and grade seam.

Pocket Lining to Lower Side
Front, right sides together. Turn right side out, press top of
Stop stitching pocket, easing lining towards the
Stitch, from seam line to inside.
seam line.
Make temporary tacks across pocket
Start and stop stitching ⅝”, top to hold fold in place
1.5cm from raw edge, the
If you choose top-stitching for your
dress panel stitching line.
style, top-stitch across top of pocket
Panel seams will be pressed
open later.

Pocket
Lining
Stop stitching

Press edge

Lower
Side Temporary tacks
Front

Page 9 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

FORM POCKET IN SIDE FRONT continued JOIN FRONT TO SIDE FRONT

Pin and baste Front to Side

Front matching notches.
Stitch seam.
Clip seam above and below Stitch seam
pocket.
Press seam open, pocket
seam towards front.
NOTE
Pin and baste across lower
edge of pocket.
Side If you choose to top-stitch

Stitch, again starting and Front then press seams towards

front and top-stitch the
stopping at the dress panel length of the seam from the
stitching line. Panel seams right side.
will need to be pressed open
later.
Baste along seam line,
through all layers, to keep
pocket in place.

Side
Pocket Front Clip into
Lower
Side seam
Front allowance,
above and
below
pocket
Baste Lower
Stitch from seam line
to seam line Side
Front

Page 10 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

JOIN BACKS AND THEN TO SIDE BACKS

Stitch seams
Pin and baste Pin and baste Side Backs to
Backs together, Backs, matching notches.
matching notches.
Stitch seam.
Stitch, ending Stitch seam
Clip and press seam open
stitching at .
NOTE
Clip to s just
short of If you choose to top-stitch
stay-stitching. then press seams towards
back and top-stitch the
Press centre back
length of the seam from the
seam open above
right side.
.

Clip

Stay-stitch

Stitch
Clip
to dot

Page 11 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

JOIN FRONT SECTION TO BACK SECTION JOIN THE MAIN GARMENT TO THE FACING/LINING

Stop 3” from
Pin and baste Fronts to the Back, lower edge
right sides together, matching seam
lines at the shoulder.
Pivot, one
Stitch, trim and press seams open. stitch across
corner

Stitch seam

Pin and baste Main to

Facing, right sides
together, around
armhole, neckline and
Clip curves
centre front edges.
Pivot with one stitch
across at neck front
corner. Stop stitching 3”
from lower edge.
Grade seam allowance
and clip curves. Trim
away excess at ends of
seams reducing bulk in
seam allowance.
Mitre at neckline front
corners.

Page 12 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

TURN GARMENT RIGHT SIDE OUT
Press armhole, neckline and front edge,
carefully easing out the corner at front
neckline and easing seam line to the
inside.
Under-stitch where you can. To
Pull through Under-stitch, at the sewing machine,
get between the layers and stitch the
seam allowances to the lining, close to
the seam line. This helps prevents the
lining rolling to the right side.

Pull Fronts through the

shoulder from between
the Back section layers.
Reach from between the
Back layers, through the
shoulder, grab the Front
and pull through.
Under-stitch
Under-stitch

Page 13 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

CONSTRUCT THE BACK VENT

This is easy to do but difficult to

illustrate! Watch my video Sewing a
Vent and all will be clear.
To be done before stitching the garment
side seams.
Looking at the diagram, both Lefts have
the vent extension. On the right we
have the vent extension on the Main
Fabric and the extension is cut away on
the Lining.
To stitch along the vent edges, the lining
pieces are folded over so that you are
able to place lining and main, right sides Fold lining over to
Fold lining over to opposite side to
together for stitching.
opposite side to stitch vent
Firstly fold the left lining to the opposite stitch vent
side. Then position the main and lining
edges, right sides together. Pin, baste
and machine. Stop stitching 3” from Left side as seen from wrong side Right side as seen from wrong side
edge so that the hem can be sewn later.
Snip seam
Return the Lining to position. Press the
allowance to
edge along the seam line. This will form
dot
the under-lap of the vent.
Snip top vent corner to . Stitch

Then fold the right lining to the opposite Main Main

side. Position the Main and Lining Wrong Wrong
Lining Lining
edges, right sides together. The Lining Side Side
Wrong Wrong
edge will be the cutaway edge. Pin, Side
baste and machine. Stop stitching 3” Side
from edge so that the hem can be sewn
later.
Return the Lining to position.
Stop 3” from edge
Page 14 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane
CONSTRUCT THE BACK VENT continued

Stitch from  to 
The overlap vent will fall into place. Press the folded edge
which will line up with the centre back.
Between the layers, clip the lining seam allowance to the s. All four seam
You can then push all seam allowances along the diagonal allowances
top seam of the vent upwards.
Reach between the layers from the right to access all the
seam allowance across the diagonal seams.

Reach between
layers to access
top of vent seam

centre back line

allowances

Folded and
pressed along
seam line
ap
r-l
de
Un

Overlap centre fold

Page 15 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

SEW THE SIDE SEAMS

Pin and baste the main

fabric side seams.
Stitch. Press open.
Between layers, push Stitch side seams in
Get between the lining rest of garment out of facing/lining
and main fabric, pin and the way
baste the facing/lining
side seams. Stitch.
Press open.
It is possible to stitch
these seams in one Stitch side
operation from main seams
fabric lower edge to
lining lower edge.

Page 16 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

SEW THE HEM
Trim main fabric at hemline to
neaten raw edges and zigzag or
overlock. Measure, pin and baste
a 1½" hem in main fabric.
Stitch using a blind hemming foot
or blind hem by hand.

Trim to neaten lower raw edges of

lining. Press up 1/2” then fold up 1” Pin facing
hem and machine close to fold.
Press.

Trim all loose threads throughout

garment. Pin front facing in posi-
tion . Slip-stitch

Slip-stitch lining invisibly in posi-

tion over facing.
Catch-stitch neatly the raw edge
of front facing that is left exposed.
Neaten the back vent lining and
facing in the same way. Catch-stitch

Page 17 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

SEW BUTTONHOLES AND SEW ON BUTTONS

Mark buttonholes and button

placement according to the size of
chosen button.

Make machine
buttonholes
Sew on buttons

Page 18 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane

Page 19 All Rights Reserved © 2017 Angela Kane