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If you drive a manual transmission car, you may be surprised to find out that your car
has more than one clutch in it. And it turns out that folks with automatic transmission
cars have clutches, too.
The clutch is an essential part of manual transmission systems. The hidden parts
include a clutch plate, typically of 8" to 10" diameter, with friction material on both
faces and splined to the gearbox input shaft. The clutch diaphragm is bolted to the
engine flywheel; it is essentially a very strong spring which can clamp the clutch plate
to the engine flywheel and force it and thus the gearbox input shaft to rotate with the
engine. A clutch disengagement mechanism can release the diaphragm and allow the
clutch plate and the engine to rotate independently for the purpose of changing gear.
The clutch pedal is connected to the disengagement mechanism either by a cable or,
more commonly, by a hydraulic system. Either way, pushing the pedal down operates
the disengagement mechanism which puts pressure on the fingers of the clutch
diaphragm via a throwout bearing and causes the diaphragm to release the clutch
plate. With a hydraulic mechanism, the clutch pedal arm operates a piston in the
clutch master cylinder. This forces hydraulic fluid through a pipe to the clutch slave
cylinder where a another piston operates the clutch disengagement mechanism. The
alternative is to link the clutch pedal to the disengagement mechanism by a cable.
A clutch can last the life-time of the vehicle but it is vulnerable to misuse and to
misadjustment. Problems arise from various causes: oil can get onto the clutch plate
past leaking engine or gearbox oil-seals and make it slip. (Water has the same effect
which is why a four wheel drive should have a sealed clutch housing; this should have
a drain-hole which must be plugged when wading.) Excessive heat can cause the
diaphragm to loose its gripping power - possibly due to a driver "riding the clutch" to
excess (if you rub your hands together they get warm; imagine what 10's or 100's of
horsepower can do). The clutch throwout bearing is usually a sealed-for-life unit and
is only intended for intermittent loading. It can fail through "old age" but this is
greatly accelerated by a driver resting a foot on the clutch pedal and keeping it under
permanent, if light, load.
Hydraulic clutches
Hydraulic clutches are usually self adjusting: The friction material on the clutch plate
gradually wears down. The position where the disengagement mechanism begins to
take up therefore changes and the clutch mechanism must adjust to compensate.
Hydraulic mechanisms rely on the diaphragm to return the hydraulic fluid through the
master cylinder and into its reservoir as it pushes the disengagement mechanism and
the slave-cylinder piston back. The master cylinder contains a valve to allow this to
happen fully but the valve is open only when the clutch pedal is fully raised -
otherwise the disengagement mechanism would never operate. Resting a foot on the
clutch pedal full-time therefore prevents the clutch from self-adjusting, puts load on
the throwout bearing and can cause it to fail prematurely. Similar problems can occur
from resting a foot (long-term) on the pedal of a cable-operated clutch.
Hydraulic and cable-operated clutches are adjusted so there is a little essential "play"
(check the manual) before the pedal starts to operate the disengagement mechanism.
In a hydraulic clutch this ensures that it can self adjust. In a cable-operated clutch it
ensures that the throwout bearing is under no load unless actively changing gears;
manual adjustment may be necessary every few months as the clutch plate wears or
the cable stretches.
The fluid level in the reservoir of a hydraulically operated clutch should be checked
weekly and the fluid should be replaced annually because it is hygroscopic and water
causes corrosion. The slave and master cylinder seals can fail and it is a good idea to
carry spares (and hydraulic fluid) if travelling in remote locations. Racing drivers can
change gear without a clutch and you can too in an emergency to drive a vehicle
without using the clutch. The starter motor is powerful enough to start a vehicle in
first gear on the flat or even up a slight slope, although it is not recommended as
common practice! (Also useful if stuck with a dead engine on a railway crossing when
the express is due.) Running up to say 3000rpm in first gear, back off the throttle to
take all load off the transmission and put the gearbox into neutral. Get the engine to
about 2000rpm (assuming adjacent gears are in the ratio 3:2) and, with care, you
should be able to engage 2nd gear with no clutch. Other gear changes are managed
similarly. The engine must be turned off and the process repeated if you have to come
to a halt. There will probably be a good deal of gears "grating" but with care, "feel"
and lots of patience this can get you back to civilisation.
The clutch only wears while the clutch disc and the flywheel are spinning at different
speeds. When they are locked together, the friction material is held tightly against the
flywheel, and they spin in sync. It is only when the clutch disc is slipping against the
flywheel that wearing occurs. So if you are the type of driver who slips the clutch a
lot, you will wear out your clutch a lot faster.
Another problem sometimes associated with clutches is a worn throwout bearing. This
problem is often characterized by a rumbling noise whenever the clutch engages.
Do: check clutch hydraulic fluid levels weekly, replace clutch fluid annually or more
often, fit wading plug to drain hole in clutch housing for water crossings and remove
afterwards.
Relevant spares for outback travel: clutch slave and master-cylinder seals or seal
"kits", suitable spanners to fit and to bleed system, bottle of fresh hydraulic fluid.
Equipped in: Volkswagens GTI, Audis and most recently Bugatti Veyron.
The TC-SST, for all its capability, uses a less complex structure than a conventional
torque converter automatic transmission. It is the advanced electronic and hydraulic
controls that allow the precision operation required to make the transmission suitable
for a road car. Essentially, the TC-SST is a manual transmission that can select two
gears at a time: one gear is engaged by one of the two wet multi-plate clutches, and
the other is pre-selected, awaiting to be engaged by the second wet multi-plate clutch.
The gear change is made ๛ either manually or automatically depending on mode
selected ๛ when the clutches are "swapped," which occurs simultaneously, with no
perceptible lag time. The two clutches are electro-hydraulically operated. Up shifts
and downshifts occur in just a fraction of a second, the longer interval necessary for
the engine control module to "blip" the throttle to match engine and transmission
speeds.
In principal, the TC-SST behaves like two three-speed manual transmissions
operating on the same output shaft. The odd-number gears and even-number gears are
on separate input shafts, and each shaft is connected to an individual clutch. The odd
and even gear shafts are linked via a transfer gear, which results in a shorter overall
transmission length. The transmission ECU, sensors and solenoids are all housed
within the transmission valve body.
The TC-SST is equipped with transmission oil cooler. As do many manual
transmissions, the TC-SST uses automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
Hands-On or Hands-Off
A dual-clutch transmission offers the function of two manual gearboxes in one. To
understand what this means, it's helpful to review how a conventional manual gearbox
works. When a driver wants to change from one gear to another in a standard stick-
shift car, he first presses down the clutch pedal. This operates a single clutch, which
disconnects the engine from the gearbox and interrupts power flow to the
transmission. Then the driver uses the stick shift to select a new gear, a process that
involves moving a toothed collar from one gear wheel to another gear wheel of a
different size. Devices called synchronizers match the gears before they are engaged
to prevent grinding. Once the new gear is engaged, the driver releases the clutch
pedal, which re-connects the engine to the gearbox and transmits power to the wheels.
So, in a conventional manual transmission, there is not a continuous flow of power
from the engine to the wheels. Instead, power delivery changes from on to off to on
during gearshift, causing a phenomenon known as "shift shock" or "torque interrupt."
For an unskilled driver, this can result in passengers being thrown forward and back
again as gears are changed.
A dual-clutch gearbox, by contrast, uses two clutches, but has no clutch pedal.
Sophisticated electronics and hydraulics control the clutches, just as they do in a
standard automatic transmission. In a DCT, however, the clutches operate
independently. One clutch controls the odd gears (first, third, fifth and reverse), while
the other controls the even gears (second, fourth and sixth). Using this arrangement,
gears can be changed without interrupting the power flow from the engine to the
transmission. Sequentially, it works like this:
Drivers can also choose a fully automatic mode that relinquishes all gear-changing
duties to the computer. In this mode, the driving experience is very similar to that
delivered by a conventional automatic. Because a DCT transmission can "phase out"
one gear and "phase in" a second gear, shift shock is reduced. More importantly, the
gear change takes place under load so that a permanent flow of power is maintained