CAUSES

Clutch pedal vibration either when you've got the pedal fully disengaged, when you're launching, or
a constant vibration these are the most common clutch issues that can cause this problem.

1. Clutch Misalignment
Misalignment in the clutch happens when the assembly is not accurately aligned
with the vehicle’s flywheel. This will cause the clutch to engage inconsistently, putting an
unbalanced load on the surfaces of the clutch and flywheel. It’s not uncommon for the result
to be chattering, pulsating, and vibration coming from the clutch pedal.
Misalignment between the engine and gearbox of a vehicle is a common problem
which is not fully understood or accepted in the market. The presence of a misalignment
condition between the engine and gearbox of a vehicle will result in serious damage to the
gearbox as well as premature and recurring clutch failures. Most vehicles have two dowel
pin or bush locations on the rear engine flange or front bell housing flange, and some
vehicles have a separate gearbox and bell housing which also has dowel locations on the
front gearbox flange and rear bell housing flange. The dowel locations are designed to
centralize the engine and gearbox to within 0,1mm, as it is impossible to centralize the
engine and gearbox correctly by means of the gearbox mounting bolts and/or flywheel pilot
bearing alone.
Misalignment is commonly caused by damaged or missing dowels or damaged
dowel locating holes between the engine and gearbox, with the result that the engine and
gearbox are no longer correctly centralized. Misalignment is also caused by bell housing
distortion or cracking, welding repairs to a damaged bell housing, and engine or gearbox
conversions where the adaptor plate or conversion bell housing has missing or inaccurately-
positioned dowel locations. Misalignment can also be caused by fitment errors such as
trapping a wire, pipe or bracket between the engine and gearbox when fitting the gearbox,
distortion of the sheet metal cover plate on the rear engine flange, or failure to clean old
hardened dirt or sealant from the mating surfaces of the engine and gearbox flanges before
fitting the gearbox.
Misalignment of the gearbox input shaft relative to the engine crankshaft in excess
of the maximum permissible tolerance of 0.1mm causes rapid driven plate torsion damper
spring, spring window, friction washer, hub spline and stop pin wear, cushion segment
failure and premature driven plate failure, and will cause recurring clutch failures unless the
misalignment condition is rectified. The rapid driven plate torsion damper assembly wear
 also results in severe driveline torsional vibration which can cause severe damage to the
gears and bearings in the gearbox. Misalignment places excessive strain on the
flywheel pilot bearing, resulting in premature and recurring pilot bearing failures and
subsequent clutch non-release and noise problems in the vehicle. Misalignment also
prevents the release bearing from centralizing itself on the cover assembly diaphragm,
resulting in clutch shudder, vibration, severe diaphragm finger wear, premature release
bearing failure, and severe gearbox input shaft sleeve wear.
Misalignment problems should be properly rectified by ensuring that all damaged or
missing dowel locating pins or bushes are replaced with new parts and all dowel locating
holes are undamaged. A new or undamaged second hand bell housing should be fitted if the
dowel holes are damaged or the bell housing is cracked or distorted as it is extremely
difficult and expensive to attempt a proper repair of a damaged bell housing. The entire
front gearbox casing will require replacement where the bell housing is an integral part of
the gearbox casing.

Figure 1.1: Misalignment clutch Figure 1.2: Severe Misalignment Mating Surface
 2. Diaphragm Issues
The amount of pressure applied to the pressure plate and clutch disc is controlled by
a diaphragm spring that seats these against the flywheel. Should the diaphragm spring
become damaged or broken, this will cause the clutch plate to engage unevenly with the
flywheel when applied or released the result is vibrations and pulsations in the clutch pedal.
Worn clutch disc facing fibres and dirt lodged between diaphragm spring and clutch
cover housing causing loss of clamp load. One of the cause is the bell housing not degreased
and cleaned. Careless installation of new clutch. The new clutch disc has not worn but the
fibres that have become lodged in the new clutch cover are that of the previously worn
clutch. It is a requirement due to ventilation designs that the bell housing area be free from
old fibres, dirt and grease when installing new clutch. This problem is common in 4 wheel
drive vehicles when an inspection cover or a clutch fork cover boot has not been replaced
when installing a new clutch.
Excessive wear on the diaphragm tips and a highly glazed pressure plate casting is
because of the lack of free travel/bearing riding on diaphragm. The driver resting foot on
clutch pedal. Besides, quill shaft worn/bearing stuck on a worn spot and not returning to
original position. The clutch slave cylinder corroded or worn and piston not returning to
allow free travel. Stretched or sticky cable also might be the cause of the excessive wear on
the diaphragm tips.
Clutch diaphragm fingers or levers are uneven and caused the pressure plate cover
assembly was torqued down incorrectly or not diagonally. The pressure plate cover assembly
was torqued down with an air wrench.

Figure 2.1: Diaphragm spring clutch parts Figure 2.2: Uneven diaphragm
3. Warping of the Clutch Disc
It’s the clutch disc that actually connects the engine flywheel to the driveshaft/axle
when the clutch is engaged. It is constructed of materials similar to brake pads and operates
on the same principals of friction. To work properly, the contact surfaces must be smooth
and flat. If the clutch disc becomes warped due to wear or overheating, it won’t engage
smoothly. The result of a lack of smooth engagement with the flywheel and pressure plate is
chattering, vibration, and pulsation in the pedal.
The car’s clutch connects to a spring that controls the movement of a pressure plate.
This pressure plate presses against the clutch disc whenever you let up on the clutch pedal.
As a result, the clutch disc encounters the flywheel, which attaches to your engine’s
crankshaft. This system ensures that anytime you don’t actively engage the clutch, your
engine and transmission rotate at the same speed. When you press down on the clutch, the
clutch disc pulls away from the flywheel, allowing the engine and transmission to spin
separately. This separation allows the transmission to switch gears before re-engaging the
flywheel. Because the flywheel attaches directly to the engine, the flywheel experiences
many extreme temperature swings. Over time, the stress of these changes may cause the
flywheel to warp. This makes the clutch disc engaging the flywheel more difficult. Eventually,
as the problem grows more pronounced, the engine may not start at all. Yet in the early
stages, a warped flywheel often manifests in your clutch pedal. We may notice that the
clutch has begun to vibrate when we release it. Known as clutch chatter, this problem stems
from the bumpy flywheel knocking against the clutch disc as the two grow closer. You must
replace an excessively warped flywheel to restore proper functioning to the car.
Worn clutch disc can causes the high-friction surface of the flywheel will take its toll
on the clutch disc as time goes on. Simply put, the face of the clutch disc will wear down
over time. No matter how responsibly we use the clutch pedal, we can’t do much to prevent
the clutch disc wearing down over time. In this regard, we can think of the clutch a little bit
like the brake pads. Allowing the clutch disc to wear down too far, however, can end up
damaging the flywheel. If the disc excessively wears down, the bolts that attach the clutch
disc to its hub may become exposed. These bolts will then dig into the surface of the
flywheel each time we take foot off the clutch. The more worn down the clutch disc
becomes, the higher the clutch pedal’s release point will be. This change in height
corresponds to the farther distance that the clutch disc has to travel to meet the flywheel.
Eventually the clutch disc simply won’t be able to exert the necessary amount of pressure on
the flywheel.
 At this point, you may notice that the car has a much harder time accelerating up
inclines or carrying heavy loads. To prevent this potentially dangerous scenario, next time
the clutch pedal’s release point seems much higher than usual, be sure to have a mechanic
properly and thoroughly inspect the clutch disc.

Figure 3: Worn clutch

 4. Throw-Out Bearing Problems
The throw-out bearing is an essential part of the assembly that engages and disengages
the clutch. When you compress the clutch pedal, the throw-out bearing will move forward to
push on the pressure plate fingers this then releases the spring pressure and pushes the
pressure plate against the disc. If this part is installed improperly, the contact with the
pressure plate fingers will be uneven. This will result in uneven clutch disc contact, which
often results in vibrations.

Figure 4.1: Throw out bearing on clutch Figure 4.2: Throw out bearing

These are the most common causes of vibrations in your clutch pedal coming from the
clutch/transmission.
DIAGNOSING
Diagnosing clutch performance issues
1) The car starts out slowly but the engine races
This is known as clutch slippage. As we release the clutch pedal and accelerate, the vehicle
moves slowly while the engine races, usually in high gear. Slipping is common when a clutch
disc is worn out. With the friction material almost worn away, the clutch disc has less surface
with which to grip the flywheel and pressure plate, making it hard for the engine to transfer
rotating power to the transmission. Another symptom notice is the clutch releasing sooner,
without much pressure on the clutch pedal. But there are other common causes for a
slipping clutch, besides a worn-out disc:
 Clutch linkage in need of adjustment
 Clutch linkage or cable binding (cable housing filled with rust)
 Clutch linkage bent, misaligned, or damaged
 Blocked master cylinder compensation port
 Pressure plate weakened or warped
 Clutch assembly contaminated with oil (because an engine or transmission oil seal is
leaking)
 Broken motor mount

2) Hard to get into reverse

Clutch problems can also prevent you from getting into or out of reverse or third gear. A
stuck gear may indicate problems with the linkage adjustment, a linkage malfunction, or a
warped or damaged clutch plate.
3) Can't get the transmission into gear
On a hydraulic system, failure to get into gear may indicate problems with the master or
slave cylinder or both. Usually, this is accompanied by a change in the way the clutch pedal
feels spongy, loose, or not catching as before. On a mechanical system, you may be having
problems with the clutch disc or pressure plate, release lever, release bearing, shift lever
assembly, or control cable.
Diagnosing clutch noise issues
1) Clutch pedal makes Noises
With the engine off, you can hear a noise when you depress the clutch pedal or
release it, or both. Usually, the noise comes from the clutch release mechanism. The
release device can be hydraulic (as in many modern vehicles) or mechanical. The device is
likely to become noisy as lubricant dries out and the mechanism wears down. A cable, rod or
connection may begin to scrape, squeal, or clunk. First, you need to locate the source of the
noise with the help of an assistant. With the engine off, have your assistant work the clutch
pedal. Open the hood and use a mechanic's stethoscope or a length of rubber hose (a
vacuum hose will do) to listen closely along the release mechanism.

2) My transmission makes noises in neutral

If the car is noisy when the transmission is in neutral, but the noise goes away when
you depress the clutch pedal, it's possible the noise is coming from a worn-out input shaft
bearing.

3) Hear squeals or growls when push the pedal

As you begin to disengage the clutch that is, as you start pressing the clutch pedal
you may hear a squealing or chirping noise. This usually points to problems with the release
(throw-out) bearing. The release bearing can be worn out, the internal lubricant dried out,
or the bearing itself damaged. Another potential source of trouble is a crankshaft pilot
bearing. A pilot bearing that is worn out or damaged can squeal or grind when the clutch
pedal reaches the floor. This is because the pilot bearing leaves a gap large enough for the
transmission input shaft and clutch disc to vibrate. So you can tell whether the release
bearing or the pilot bearing is the source of the noise. A bad release bearing will start
squealing or chirping with a slight depression of the clutch pedal, or before it's fully
depressed a bad pilot bearing will start squealing or grinding as the pedal reaches the floor.
So check the pilot bearing carefully if the clutch release bearing seems in good condition.
4) Hear Grinding When Shifting Gears
This problem is known as a dragging clutch. It happens when the friction or clutch
disc remains engaged or stuck, so the transmission input shaft keeps spinning even when
you fully depress the clutch pedal. Since the input shaft is still spinning, trying to shift gears,
especially into reverse, will cause them to clash or grind.
- This grinding may point to any number of problems: problems with the pressure
plate, throw-out bearing, or release mechanism. On a mechanical release system,
the cable may be broken, frozen, overstretched, or in need of adjustment (consult
your vehicle repair manual). On a hydraulic-type system, grinding may indicate
problems with the clutch master cylinder (low fluid, or air in the system or the
internal cylinder mechanism).
- Another possibility you want to look into is the clutch pedal assembly. The pedal
may have too much free travel and will need adjustment (consult your vehicle repair
manual).
Diagnosing clutch pedal issues
1) Clutch chatters when accelerate
This clutch problem makes the pedal vibrate or, if the problem is severe enough, makes the
car jerk during acceleration. The vibration comes from the clutch disc intermittently losing
its grip on the flywheel.
Possible causes of vibrating or chattering include:
 Clutch disc lining (friction material) worn out
 Clutch disc lining burnt or contaminated with oil
 Clutch disc glazed
 Clutch disc hub with worn out splines
 Warped pressure plate or flywheel
 Pressure plate diaphragm spring weakened or with broken fingers (bouncing)
 Pressure plate with hot spots
 Pilot bearing worn out or damaged
 Flywheel worn out
Before you go to the trouble of dropping the transmission, make sure to check the engine
and transmission motor mounts, because motor mounts can also be the source of chatter.
Check the mounts for cracks, damage, or loose bolts.
Also, check that the transmission is correctly aligned with relation to the engine. The
transmission clutch housing should be resting fully against the engine otherwise, this can
cause vibration and lead to damage to the clutch disc lining and torsion springs.
2) Clutch Pedal Pulsates
A clutch pedal may pulsate because a rotating part is wobbling or vibrating inside the
transmission. The pulsation may be caused by a warped flywheel, or by a release lever that
needs adjustment or is damaged. If the pulsation or vibration started after servicing the
transmission (the transmission was dropped or just separated from the engine for
inspection), it is possible the transmission housing is improperly aligned with the engine.
3) Clutch Pedal is Hard to Push

A clutch pedal that's hard to push or "stiff" may point to problems with the release
mechanism (or the hydraulic system, on modern vehicles). Release mechanism components
to check include the cable, linkage, clutch fork, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing. Check
for a part that is in need of lubrication or worn out. Consult your vehicle repair manual for
the maintenance service the system needs.

4) My Clutch Pedal Stays on the Floor

Just like a stiff pedal, a clutch pedal that stays on the floor can point to problems
with the linkage or release bearing. Either component may bind. Check that the springs in
the linkage are not over-stretched. You may need to adjust the linkage. Also, check that the
pedal stop is in place, and, if necessary, inspect the release bearing.

5) Clutch Pedal Feels Loose

If your clutch pedal feels loose:
 Check the release bearing or fork for damage.
 Check for a failure of the pressure-plate diaphragm spring.
HOW TO FIX IT
1. The misaligned clutch
It is necessary in virtually all cars to remove the gearbox from the car in order to
replace the clutch, which is why it's such an expensive and time-consuming piece of work to
get done - regardless of the price of the parts themselves. Hence, even though it's often just
the clutch plate that needs replacing, it is worth buying the whole kit, including the pressure
plate and release bearing. A lot is said about dual-mass flywheels. They effectively dampen
out vibration in cars that produce high torque at low speeds, but can cause problems in all
models depending on the type of driving the car is mostly used for. The mechanism weakens
and breaks up over time, which can lead to poor starting and running. It is a popular
conversion on some cars to change from a dual mass flywheel to a solid flywheel setup.
Often because they are cheaper but often because dual mass flywheels get a lot of bad press
about reliability but they are there for a reason and replacing yours with a solid conversion
will result in a noticeable increase in vibration through the clutch pedal and the cabin in
general.
To avoid this, it is important to degrease and inspect the gearbox bell-housing
thoroughly, ensure a transmission jack is used correctly, and use the relevant clutch
alignment tool during installation.

2. The diaphragm issues

To avoid over stroking of the diaphragm, clutch adjustment should be checked and
set according to manufacturer specification. Before leaving the production facility all cover
assemblies are checked for clamp loading, pressure plate lift and diaphragm run-out utilising
computerised test equipment.
First of all, check engine to gearbox dowels and replace if necessary. Then, check the
gearbox nose cone for wear and repair or replace if necessary. Next, check clutch fork and
pivot ball/cross shaft and repair or replace if necessary. Lastly, adjust free travel to
manufacture’s specification and if available use self-aligning bearing.
3. Warping of the clutch disc
Pressure plates must be carefully inspected before being placed back into service.
An initial visual inspection of the pressure plate, clutch disc, and flywheel can usually be
done through an inspection cover. Remove the pressure plate bolts a few turns at a time,
and in a crisscross pattern. Failure to do so can result in a warped pressure plate. Inspect
the pressure plate for warping and hot spots. This part is often replaced when replacing a
worn clutch disc.
Inspect the plate's surface for cracks, scoring, and chatter marks. They leave dark
and then light spots around the plate’s surface. This can be the result of a worn disc or
incorrect free-play adjustments. Free play is the distance between the release bearing and
the pressure plate fingers. Anytime the clutch slips, it's creating heat and damaging the
pressure plates surface
Excessive wear on the diaphragm’s fingers can be caused by a defective or worn release
bearing. These fingers fan out as the disc wears, reducing free play and riding on the
release bearing. For constant running release bearings refer to the manufacturers manual
for specifications.
Any defects on this surface cannot be removed like its counterpart the flywheel.
The flywheel is removed from the vehicle and resurfaced if within specifications.
Disassembling and resurfacing the pressure plate may be hazardous due to intense spring
pressure.
Hot spots are dark blue discoloured patterns caused by excessive heat. These spots
are often caused by clutch slippage. The pressure plate can become warped from this heat.
Check the pressure plate’s surface with a straight edge and a feeler gauge.
4. Throw-out Bearing Problem
The throw-out bearing is a small bearing that assists in the disengagement of the
clutch. When changing the clutch make sure to change the throw-out bearing also. Replacing
a throw-out bearing is simple but it needs to be installed properly to avoid uneven of the
contact with the pressure plate fingers. Inspect the pressure plate for any scoring, grooves
and chips. Also, inspect the flywheel for any rivet grooves, warping or gouging. Surfaces
should be smooth. Make sure all teeth on the flywheel are also in good shape.
At this point, inspect the release bearing and replace it if worn. Check the pilot
bearing for wear and replace if necessary. Apply a light coat of moly-base grease to the
transmission input shaft, wiping off any excess. If any signs of wear or distortion are present
these parts should be replaced on installation.
https://www.exedy-aftermarket.com/english/default/clutch/index/id/02-04/
http://www.partinfo.co.uk/files/LUK%20Clutch%20Fault%20Finder.pdf
http://www.alltransworld.com/blog/2-transmission-problems-that-can-affect-your-clutch
https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Bad-Clutch-Symptoms