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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Zagreb
Spring 2016

TheMay TheSava
River Forts Be
Withthat
Rapids Youhave
Discover the history
reached generations
of Šibenik’s fortresses
Clubbing Zagreb
History
Movin’ In Spades
& groovin’ all
Ten must-see
night long
archeological sites
What Springs In
Spring?
Blossoming concerts
and festivals

N°83 - complimentary copy


zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board
www.visitdubrovnik.hr
Contents

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Nightlife 38
Let the music take you higher
Foreword 4
A zesty editorial to unfold
Sightseeing 43
Discover what we’ve uncovered
Arrival & Getting Around 6
SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here
Shopping 52
Priceless places and buys
City Basics 9
The A-Z of Zagreb
Hotels 59
The true meaning of “do not disturb”
Tales of the Sava Riverbank 10
From past to the present day
Directory 61
Services you just may need
Culture & Events 12
A pick ‘n‘ mix list to brighten your stay
List of Small Features
The Foodie’s Guide 32
Restaurants 25 Tram N° 13  49
We give you the bread ‘n‘ butter of where to eat The Altar of St. Rocco   50
Affordable Art  54
Local Flavour 31
City Centre Shopping 57
Treat yourself or be treated

Coffee & Cakes 33


Maps & Index
Street Register 63
“How’s that sweet tooth?”
Transport Map   63
Zagreb Nightlife Pulse 35 City Centre Map 64-65
When in Zagreb, do as Zagrepčani City Map    66

Spring into action with loads of concerts, outdoor events, packed terraces and fun-filled parks
Zagreb 4U, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan (TZGZ Archives)

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 3


Foreword
Welcome to Zagreb at this beautiful time of year where not
only does the flora and @InYourPocket
fauna blossom, but the warmth in
the city air turns up a notch with a large number of con-
Stay up-to-date
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we have a feature on the Sava River and its riverbank, our
Sightseeing category discovers who has the honor of firing Publisher
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
the famous Grić cannonvine.co/inyourpocket
from the Lotrščak Tower every day ISSN 1333-2732
at noon, whilst our Nightlife category brings you the lat- What’s going on?
est on what’s pulsating once the moon rises and the stars Company Office & Accounts
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Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić,
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4 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Arrival & Getting Around
best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6
By plane towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana
Zagreb International Airport is located 17km out of town. Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn
Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb is well
domestic and international arrival and departure areas are connected with buses which are linked to all major cities in
located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between Za-
outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka greb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one
office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the coun-
21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Informa- tries capital range from 26-77kn.
tion Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours.
Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor)
the post office have a baby changing room, but do note QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33,
that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr.
Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus
service from Zagreb International Airport to the Zagreb Bus
Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to By train
flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very user-
costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more friendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into
cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk
Due to the specific location of the Zagreb International Air- through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left
port, taxi rates can differ significantly. Therefore, we recom- corner. A currency exchange is located in the international
mend you pre-book online prior to your arrival. Simply log ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office
onto www.ekotaxi.hr and your taxi ride will be waiting for (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between
you with prices and comfort second to none. If you wish to the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as
go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is
local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from. a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it
ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are
Zagreb International Airport available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as
(Međunarodna zračna luka Zagreb you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15 - 25kn/
(MZLZ)) per day. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance
QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb- and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get
airport.hr. to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram
N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards
The bus and train stations are not directly in close Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into
proximity to one another but are within a 10 minute easy town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and
walk or a 2-4 minute drive by car. will cost around 30kn. Getting around Town: Railroads
are connected with almost all major cities in Croatia, train
rides within and around the Zagreb area are faster and less
By bus expensive than other means of transport. There are also
The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni seasonal discounts and organised day trips where guests
kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything
from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The
top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat Tourist Information
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the
Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed Tourist Information Centre
by someone with at least a minor command of English. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb
Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main
main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotršćak Tower.
along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800
(mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr,
ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat
Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. May - October Open
the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs 08:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets
are located up the small staircase to the left of the main Zagreb County Tourist Board
hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to QC‑3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@
walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the tzzz.hr, www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,
station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. Sun.
For proponents of public transportation a tram is your
6 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Arrival & Getting Around
can see quite a lot in little time. If you would like to tour
around the surrounding area by bike, prices depend on the
distance and vary from 10-35kn. And for all you pet lov-
ers, bring your very best friend along but do know that you
must have a mandatory veterinary booklet, small dogs are
free of charge if kept in your lap or in a basket: Larger00dogs 100

must wear a muzzle and are charged at 50% of the stand-


ard price for tickets. 5 95

Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) 5 75


QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44,
www.hzpp.hr.

Public transport 5 25

The Sljeme bus line


The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac 5

Station and goes to the Tomislav’s dom Station, six times


a day throughout the week, and every hour on weekends 0
between 06:20 - 21:50.Qwww.zet.hr/userdocsimages/
voznired/140.pdf.

Trams & Buses


Getting around town is made all the much easier via the
city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you
from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run
from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00
- 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can
be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with
a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4,
Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.
There are 133 daily bus lines and 4 nightlines which link
Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest
and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at
Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most.
Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night
rides (00:00 - 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while
daily tickets are 30kn. Tickets are available from the driver
on buses, at kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride
free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an un-
validated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting
caught without one is an embarrassing and costly00expe- 100
rience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule.
For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses 5 and 95
trams, simply visit www.zet.hr/default.aspx?id=290Qtel.
(+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@
5 75
zet.hr, www.zet.hr.

Biking
Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? 5 In 25
what is becoming somewhat of a common trend, more
and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to 5
choose the ecological route to town. Even though bike
routes haven’t fully been mapped, roads are marked for cy- 0
clists with either red paint or are separated from the main
road by yellow and white lines. Markings are very visible
and clear to both bike riders and car drivers. If you would
like to rent a bike (daily rental will cost 100kn), visit any of
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 7
Arrival & Getting Around
the following www.zagrebbybike.com, www.nextbike.
hr, www.bike.com.hr. For those seeking a recreational
ride, then Maksimir, Bundek and Jarun are the ideal loca-
tions. True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged
should know that the city surroundings are filled with alter-
native bicycle routes that range in various levels of degree
as well as different types of surface. For all other informa-

+385 1 1414 tion and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and
www.pedala.hr, www.mojbicikl.hr.

Car rental
Rent-a-car offices are located at airports and within the
co2 city’s large hotels (e.g., Sheraton, Panorama, Westin,...) or
NEUTRAL within their immediate vicinity. Prices per day for an econo-
hr

my or compact car class ranges from 250 to 550 kn. In order


to rent a four wheeled vehicle, you need to have a credit
xi.

card and be 18 years old (by law). If a problem occurs on


ta

the road, first call your rent-a-car contact number, then the
100% Co2 HAK roadside assistance service at (+ 385-1) 1987.
ko

neutral
w.e

Parking
Street parking/SMS Parking
ww

There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs


on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 6kn/h with a maxi-
mum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 3kn/h with
a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green)
pet friendly - order specially is 1.5kn/h. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box
equiped car on hour before going to which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display
the desired destination it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message
your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown
(including the international code if you’re using a foreign
mobile (+385) 700101 (zone 1), 700102 (zone 2), 700103
(zone 3). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a
return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a
timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you
to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to
move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot
baby friendly - order a car one or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid
hour before going to the desired for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector
destination spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 100,
60 or 20kn respectively according to the zone, and can be
paid in any post office.

Taxis
Eko taxi
QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/(+385-) 099 456
04 55, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www.ekotaxi.hr. T­6
smartphone
Radio taksi Zagreb
app QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/
(+385-1) 17 17, info@radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-
taksi-zagreb.hr.

Taxi Cammeo
Qtel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxi-
cammeo.hr.
8 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
City Basics
Customs Toilets
As Croatia entered the EU on July 1 2013, there are no longer You ‘had to go’ forty-five minutes ago...public toilets or WCs
custom limits between member states or tax return. For other (pronounced ‘vay-say’) are few, as one in the Cesarčeva
non-member states we recommend you to follow info at Street near the main city square, which is free of charge and
www.porezna-uprava.hr. wheelchair-accessible. Your best bet is to find and use one
inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat
at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through
Disabled travellers the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape or ženski for women.
and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a
loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking
spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapt- Visas
ed for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU mem-
with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, ber states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make
once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your coun-
streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re plan- try of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are
ning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities through-
in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour out Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple
to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible. entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and
Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforemen-
tioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United
States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appli- When things go wrong
ances. Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb signifi-
cantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should
keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of
Water an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to
police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city
district, in case you were involved in an accident or were
Money arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In
There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER
as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything
day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest
not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help
you. 24/7 (+385-1) 1987.

Tipping
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about National Holidays
tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a January 1 New Year’s Day
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round January 6 Epiphany
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want March 27 Easter
to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a March 28 Easter Monday
classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it? May 1 International Workers’ Day
May 26 Corpus Christi
Roads June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day
June 25 Statehood Day
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driv-
August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day
ing licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Stand-
ard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no August 15 Feast of the Assumption
mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for October 8 Independence Day
drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is November 1 All Saints’ Day
50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary December 25 Christmas
roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day
drive slower, live longer.
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 9
Tales of the Sava Riverbank

The Virgin - Photo by Lea Bogović

Many of the world’s great cities have a river running became fashionable to wash your car from top to bottom
through them, from the River Thames in London to the Yar- alongside the river. How eco-friendly is that?
ra River in faraway Melbourne. Zagreb too has its own Sava In this day and age, you’ll be happy to know that swim-
River, a symbol of the city that has over the years shared its ming and car washing are strongly prohibited but in juxta-
ups and downs with Zagrebians. As opposed to many other position, there is an abundance of ‘sports and recreational
rivers, the Sava River is not located centrally, but rather on activities’linked to the Sava River embankment and Lakes
the outskirts of the city. It is one of the three longest riv- Jarun and Bundek.
ers in Croatia running a length of 944km, whilst the width By walking the river embankment you can spot the so-
of the river spans more than 100 meters in parts. FYI, the called ‘Kockica’ building that was built in the early 1960’s,
Sava River along Zagreb is neither navigable nor drinkable, a thorough example of socialist architecture. It was built
mostly because of industry and waste water treatment; yet according to a project created by the great Croatian archi-
despite this, it’s common to see some fishermen hoping for tect Ivan Vitić. Also, the ‘Croatian Radio and Television’
a catch along the riverbank. building isn’t hard to miss. The ‘Alley of Sculptures’ is the
Turning back the clock, the first public beach was opened largest open-air gallery in Zagreb with 11 sculptures of
in 1926 by the then mayor Vjekoslav Heinzel. The water Croatian sculptors to choose for that perfect selfie. Also,
was crystal clear back then, drinkable in fact, and in ad- the Sava embankment has a view of the ‘greenbridge’ or
dition to swimming, the beach was a place where one Savski Most (Sava Bridge) which Zagrebians know as the
would stroll, play cards, sing, mingle, socialise, play games... ‘Hendrix’ bridge because of the graffiti dedicated to the
The area known as ‘Babinjak’ was primarily a sunbathing rock legend which has been written on it for years. De-
area where many of Zagreb’s ladies would catch a tan. spite the number of times authorities have repainted the
The swimming area had about 900 cabins, with one end bridge, graffiti artists always manage to respray the sign in
including the so-called ‘Gospodarić’s baths’ where wealthy its rightful place. In addition to the aforementioned bridge,
citizens unconcerned with admission prices would seek lei- Zagreb’s Sava bridges are a set of road, rail and pedestrian
sure and refreshments. Did someone say ticket price? Yes, bridges that connect the left and right banks of the Sava
indeed, one had to pay to bathe in parts! To the right there River.
was a public beach with two wooden pools in the river it- The Sava River embankment also offers many opportuni-
self. At the time, ‘The Sava Riviera’ stretched all the way ties for sports activities where one can walk, jog solo or join
to present-day Lake Jarun and the Sava Beach also held an an organised running group. Eager beavers who love to
annual‘beauty pageant’. cycle can ride all the way to Sveta Nedelja along a route
Things turned for the worse in the 1960’s when a huge that is 16km long (route details can be found at www.sve-
flood engulfed one third of Zagreb in 1964. The flood de- tanedelja.hr ).
stroyed many of the beach structures and with contamina-
tion detected, bathing in the river was prohibited and so There’s fun for everyone along the left bank where there are
the beach was only used for sunbathing.To make matters several landscaped grounds for tennis, football, and bas-
worse, a large number of cars began to invade the city at ketball. And on the embankment itself near the suburb of
the time and the Sava River served as a ‘car wash’, it even Savica, one can find 2 iron bikes and we dare you to head
10 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Tales of the Sava Riverbank
down in the early evening hours and pedal the iron bikes Finally, see one fun filled part of Zagreb at the city’s larg-
for a lamp will begin to glow, oh so cool! If you love horses, est flea market named ‘Hrelić’ which takes place every
then you definitely need to visit the racetrack hippodrome Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. The quickest way to
which is located on the right bank of the Sava before the get there is via bus number 295 which runs daily from
Most Slobode (Bridge of Freedom). A kids corner is per- Zapruđe Station, the timetable can be seen at www.zet.hr.
fectly placed next to the Boćarski dom with a large play- All in all, the Sava River still gives Zagrebians and its visi-
ground filled with slides, see saws, trampolines and more. tors so much to do and see, so take the time to visit the
Fancy a putt! Fans of golf can take a swing at the well-kept lifeline of the city. Have a picnic, or go for a walk, either
golf courses at the Golf & Country Club Zagreb (www. way, it’s a nice way to see an integral part of the past and
gcczagreb.hr) located near the Sava River. Fishing fans present!
won’t be disappointed because the waters of the Sava
River are risen with many fishing spots reachable by car.
The riverbed is rocky with deposits of sand and gravel. One
secret hotspot is perfect for špineraši (Spin Fishermen),
where the Eastern district Heating plant was reconstructed
with a stone dam over which rapids are created. Fish vari-
eties include bleak, chub, dace, nose carp, barbel, bream,
carp, pike, catfish and perch. Thanks to the diversity of fish
species, fishing is possible throughout the year. For any
additional information about fishing and licenses, visit the
Sports Fishing Association Piškor or contact them via
mail or phone (www.srdpiskor-zg.hr).

On the right bank of the Sava River after the Most Slobode
(Bridge of Freedom), there is the exquisite Lake Bundek
and park where one can enjoy various sports activities (cy- Zagreb 1978., washing cars on river Sava - Photo by Pavao Cajzek
cling, inline skating, roller blading, walking and jogging).
Barbecues and small wooden cafes are about! Whilst on
the left bank of the Sava and before the Savski Most there is
the Sports and Recreational Centre Jarun. At Lake Jarun
visitors can row, sail, cycle, roller-blade, jog and do much
more. The Sports and Recreation Centre Mladost is just
before Jarun and a top destination all year round with both
indoor and outdoor pool facilities.
If you’re feeling peckish and fancy a meal, there are sev-
eral eateries along the Sava River and its embankment. For
those wanting pizza and pasta, there is Stara Sava (Savska
Street 208), or Pizzeria Helena Jarun (Županići Street
1). For something a bit meatier or off the BBQ, meaning
meat rolls, burgers and kebabs, definitely visit NK Sava
(Gredice 157). Feel like some Italian cuisine, then visit the
Restaurant Pizzeria Oliva (Jarunska 5), or visit the res- Jarun Lake - Photo by Višnja Arambašić
taurant Balon located near Boćarski dom (Prisavlje 2).
Once dinner is done, coffee and dessert is calling and you Sound Art Inkubator 2013. - Photo by Sara B. Moritz
can choose from the numerous cafes in and around Park Močvara Gallery Archives
Bundek, Lake Jarun and Boćarski dom.
As for Nightlife on the river Sava, the once popular clubs
on rafts ‘Papilon’ and ‘Sidro’ are in poor condition and not in
function. But, there is a retreat and that is in the newly reno-
vated ‘Brazil Boat’on the River and its open from Wednes-
days to Saturdays, more information can be found on their
Facebook page. For those craving something purely
heavier to alternative in terms of music, there are lots of
gigs and live performances to exhibitions at Club Močvara
(Trnjanski nasip bb). Event details can be tracked down
at: www.mochvara.hr or Pogon Jedinstvo - Zagreb’s
Centre for Independent Culture and Youth (Trnjanski
nasip bb ), www.upogoni.org/wp/.

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 11


Culture & Events

The Drops - Concert on April 25th at Teatar &TD, Muzički centar Archives

Classical Music Concert will include works from Mussorgsky, Tchaikovsky, Rach-
23.04 Saturday maninoff, Borodin, Rossini and Verdi. Konstantin Orbeliani
Lisinski on Saturday - Ivo Pogorelić: will conduct proceedings along with guest soprano Asmik
Cycle within a Cycle Grigorian and the Kaunas City Symphony Orchestra.QI‑3,
Dubbed as a genius, eccentric, and uncanny musician, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4,
which probably explains why he is praised and glorified www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 260 -
by musicians and critics alike. Pogorelić returns to his 320kn.
home turf and is set to bedazzle the audience at Lisinski
again with his emotive and heart-warming interpreta- 20.05 Friday
tions of Stravinsky, Brahms, Schumann, Liszt and oth- Kurt Weill and Bertolt Brecht - The
ers.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Threepenny Opera
Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. 160 Originally, ‘The Threepenny Opera’ was an early example
- 240kn. of a musical comedy and in this new production, which
will be conducted by Ivan Josip Škender and directed by
the French playwright Pascal Rambert, is in fact a satire of
Opera, Operetta & Ballet the traditional opera with songs that have become popu-
16.04 Saturday lar standards, especially ‘The Ballad of Mack the Knife’
Georg Friedrich Händel - Agrippina and ‘Pirate Jenny’.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg
Händel’s first opera masterpiece in three acts is based maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr.
on internal royal family schemes as led by the Roman
Empress Agrippina. Despite initial praise, Händel’s opera 02.07 Saturday
remained somewhat forgotten until the 20th century Bruno Bjelinski and Giorgio Madia -
when his repertoire was restored and returned to glory. Peter Pan
The Croatian production of Agrippina was produced by Once upon a time in the land of Never Land lived Peter Pan
the Music Academy in Zagreb.QB‑3, Croatian National and Tinker Bell… and so the classic fairy tale goes. Now
Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr. Starts at a new and reinvigorated version is set to premiere which
19:30. Performances also on 20th and 22nd April. is based on Croatia’s Bruno Bjelinski’s famous 1966 rendi-
tion which premiered at the Croatian National Theatre that
13.05 Friday same year. And 50 years on, his work turns a new leaf with
Lisinski Arioso - Dmitri Hvorostovsky Italian choreographer Giorgio Madia putting his stamp on
If there are seven wonders of world opera, then Hvoros- this enchanting story.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre,
tovsky might well be one of them. The magnificent Rus- Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr.
sian baritone known for his technical virtuosity and vocal
softness is set to grace the Lisinski stage. The repertoire www.inyourpocket.com
12 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
Rock & Pop Concerts 07.06 Tuesday
15.04 Friday Zakk Wylde
Gustafi - Maneštra To coincide with the 20th anniversary of ‘Book of Shad-
This cult Istrian band is touring in support of their elev- ows’, Wylde has recently released a Part 2 version of the
enth studio album spice fully named ‘Maneštra’, or in album and will tour the old continent; Wylde is known for
the English language ‘Minestrone’. From classics to latest his amazing finger tapping on the electric guitar and came
hits such as ‘Hiti se na mene’ and ‘Za ljubav se ne moli’, to fame when he began playing with Ozzy Osbourne in
a night of eclectic blues, Tex-Mex and folk can be ex- 1987. He is the founder of the band ‘Black Label Society’
pected at the Tvornica Kulture venue, just like a true min- and one of the most highly respected rock guitarists
estrone mix.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www. of this era.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.
tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
50 - 70kn. 150 - 210kn.

27.04 Wednesday & 28.04 Thursday 08.07 Friday


Eric Sardinas and Big Motor Mac DeMarco
This US guitarist of Cuban descent returns to Zagreb once Organisers of the ‘SuperUho festival’ announce the return
again. Sardinas is known for his ambidextrous playing (art- of the popular musician Mac DeMarco. It has been almost
istry of playing with both hands) but also for the series of three years since DeMarco’s Zagreb premier which was
materials that he uses to combine electric blues, country made memorable for his stage humour. This indie rock
and rock.QI‑4, Hard Place, Ulica hrvatske bratske zajed‑ artist with his casual and unburdened attitude can work
nice 4, www.hardplace.hr. Tickets 90 - 130kn. up a crowd and pop some great tunes at the same time; all
amidst a few cigarettes in between.QI‑3, Large Yard be‑
05.05 Thursday - 07.05 Saturday hind Močvara Club / Pogon Jedinstvo, Trnjanski nasip
Silente bb, www.mochvara.hr. Concert starts at 21:30. Tickets
Young Dubrovnik pop rock group Silente caught the at- 80 - 120kn.
tention of both the Croatian media and public with their
first hit single ‘Terca na tišinu’ which topped national
charts and won awards in 2013/2014. Silente was nominat- Dance
ed for many national music awards.QSax!, Palmotićeva 11.04 Monday - 29.04 Friday
22, www.sax-zg.hr. Tickets 50 - 70kn. Platforma HR
Join the mix of choreographers, dance artists and groups
06.05 Friday that unite to present their experiences, ideas and indi-
Calexico vidual dance approaches through shows, workshops and
Three years have passed since this American based Tex- lectures. Creativity is the key and this really is the meet and
Mex, indie rock band last visited our capital. Joey Burns greet of the regional dance scene.QPogon Jedinstvo,
and John Convertino still lead Calexico which is touring in Trnjanski nasip bb; Tala Dance Centre, Božidara Magov‑
support of their latest album ‘Edge of the Sun’ and which ca 50; Flower Sqare, Trg Petra Preradovića, www.tala.hr.
happens to be their best commercially sold album to date,
making them amongst the 30 best-selling artists around
the world.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.
tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets
140 - 170kn.

08.05 Sunday
Enrique Iglesias - Sex and Love
Latino legend Enrique is set to spruce up Arena Zagreb this
coming May with his new world tour. Chart topping hits
such as ‘Bailando’, ‘Turn up the night’, ‘I like it’ and ‘Hero’
are just some of the classics you can hear. This particular
event will be extra special as Enrique will be celebrating
his 40th birthday that day. Light the candles, pop on some
party hats and let the night begin…QH‑5, Arena Zagreb,
Ulica Vice Vukova 8, www.outbox.hr. Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 219 - 759kn.

twitter.com/inyourpocket Boris Bućan, 29th Split Summer Festival, HNK Split


1983., Screen print - MSU Archives

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 13


Culture & Events
15.04 Friday
The LADO Ensemble and KOLO Ensemble - Exhibitions
Full-night dance concert 11.12 2015 Friday - 23.04 2016 Saturday
LADO, the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded Aquae Iasae - Recent Discoveries
in 1949 as a professional national institution responsible Of Roman Remains In The Region Of
for keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of Varaždinske Toplice
over 100 choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal In the Varaždin spa region, where there is a medicinal ther-
and instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes rep- mal water spring, Roman Aquae Iasae settlements from
resenting the folk tradition across Croatia. All material is re- the 1st - 4th century can be found. Here a complex in vari-
searched by experts who delve deep into the past but also ous stages of construction was discovered, which consists
consider that the folk tradition is created by the people, of baths and temples that were built around the natural
is alive and free to express itself. LADO really is a national spring. This exhibition will present recent research results,
treasure, and if you should get the chance to see them, from 2011 - 2013, of numerous inscriptions, sculptures,
you won’t be disappointed. This time LADO will be joined reliefs and Romans coins which were discovered.QC‑2,
on stage by the national folk dance ensemble KOLO from Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića
Serbia.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Zrinskog 19, www.amz.hr.
Tita 15, www.lado.hr.
11.12 2015 Friday - 31.05 2016 Tuesday
26.05 Thursday - 04.06 Saturday Magical Company - Beliefs In Supernatu-
Dance Week Festival ral Beings In The Podravina Area
The Zagreb Dance Centre is home to organising commit- This exciting exhibition is divided according to supernat-
tee for this festival, dedicated to all lovers of dance, regard- ural beings, from elves and fairies, to witches and many
less of preferred genre. If we were to list all the styles of other legendary characters. The exhibition will show the
dance which will be on show, we would take up more transformation of these supernatural characters through
than a few pages. Needless to say that there will almost time, from traditional folk legends to our modern pop
definitely be something to suit all tastes. Included are also culture. The characters, photographed by award-winning
a number of symposia, with noted choreographers and photographer Iva Lulić, will be displayed in their natural
dancers, examining the evolution of dance, its past, its fu- fairytale forest environment.QB‑3, Ethnographic Mu‑
ture, and other themes within the art. Equally accessibly seum, Trg Mažuranića 14, www.emz.hr.
to aficionados and those who simply appreciate a good
performance.QC‑2, Zagreb Dance Centre, Ilica 10, www. 16.02 Tuesday - 08.05 Sunday
plesnicentar.info. Menci Clement Crnčić – Retrospective
In marking the 150th anniversary since the birth of the art-
ist, this retrospective will present Crnčić’s finest artworks
which had deemed him as one of the best of his time. His
forte was local landscape paintings, shades of winds and
storms at sea, the Mediterranean, panoramas and more.
Crnčić held a father-figure status in the scene as he was
in many ways an inspiration to numerous future Croatian
greats.QC‑1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4,
www.gkd.hr.

10.03 Thursday - 14.08 Sunday


Exhibition ‘45’
Get a true insight into the wounds and wonders of the
Croatian people in 1945 and beyond, the year which
finally ended WW2 but to this day still has its scars and
unresolved disputes. The exhibition presents key histori-
cal, political, cultural and social events relating to Croatia
taken from 69 national and international museums, and 22
private lenders. From literature to the Church, Bleiburg to
Communism, fashion to cartoons, fine arts to architecture
and more, little is left untold.QB‑1, Croatian History Mu‑
seum, Matoševa 9, www.hismus.hr.

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Anna Calvi - Photo by Roger Deckker, Reflektor Festival Archives
inyourpocket
14 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
early Iron Age. These findings represent the remains of
the Hallstatt culture and show the economic wealth and
strength of this Iron Age population to be one of the rich-
est Iron Age findings in the southeastern area.QC‑1, Zagreb
City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz.hr.

18.03 Friday - 17.04 Sunday


Dalibor Martinis - DM 2016 Talks With DM
2077
This project was specifically designed for the Art Pavilion in
which Dalibor Martinis questions and analyzes the world of
The World Festival of Animated Film - AnimaFest Zagreb media. Martinis is one of the most prominent contemporary
Croatian artists and one of the pioneers of video art in Croa-
tia. His work includes a variety of videos and performances
in public spaces and has been displayed in many prominent
art centers, such as the Kunsthaus in Zürich and the Ste-
delijk Museum in Amsterdam.QC‑3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja
Tomislava 22, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.

APRIL - JUNE
Nives Kavurić Kurtović - Retrospective /
Prospective
A painter and academic who changed the view of Surreal-
ism and other ‘isms’ in Croatian fine arts of the 20th and 21st
century. Kurtović held her first exhibition in 1963 with paint-
ings, ink and pen on white paper. Her oeuvre and status
had changed with time where today’s audience can see her
paintings in oil, or in large format with over 200 of her com-
plex and most intriguing works presented.QC‑1, Klovićevi
Simply Red - Zagreb Calling Archives dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.gkd.hr.
11.03 Friday - 24.04 Sunday
Bachrach & Krištofić 14.04 Thursday - 29.05 Sunday
As part of the local art scene, Sanja Bachrach and Mario Boris Bućan - Breakfast at the Printing
Krištofić, are one of the most popular artist couples and Factory - A selection from the Collec-
are well-known for their rock and roll style, which comes tion of Posters
to life in their designs and photography. This exhibition Bućan is one of the doyens of Croatian Graphic Design who
will display different works from their 35 year career.QB‑3, started his career in the late 60s. This chronological exhibi-
Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www. tion will present up to 80 posters in large format and many
muo.hr. more dating from the early 70s to the late 90’s. An accom-
panying catalogue will be printed with samples of his works
15.03 Tuesday - 17.04 Sunday and paintings, as well as responses from acclaimed foreign
Dražen Trogrlić - An Intimate Universe experts, writers and critics.QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Mu‑
2000 – 2015 (Paintings, Sculptures, Draw- seum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.
ings)
At this exhibition, more than one hundred different works, 26.04 Tuesday - 29.05 Sunday
including paintings, drawings, watercolors, prints and Dalibor Jelavić - a Critical Retrospective
sculptures from the period 2000 - 2015 by the artist Dražen 1976 - 2016
Trogrlić will be presented. Don’t miss out on seeing these As part of the series entitled ‘Painting retrospectives of the
great works by this modern artist.QC‑3, Modern Gallery, Modern Gallery’, a selection of 120 of the best works from
Andrije Hebranga 1, www.moderna-galerija.hr. Jelavić’s oeuvre, which is made up of oils, drawings, prints,
tapestries and enamels that were generated more than four
16.03 Wednesday - 15.05 Sunday decades ago, will be showcased. Jelavić is known for his
Budinjak – the field of tumuli: archaeo- expressive gestures and powerful colours making him one
logical investigations 1995 – 2014 of the most impressive verticals of contemporary Croatian
Budinjak is located in the central area of the Žumberak abstract art.QC‑3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1,
Mountains at a height of 740 m above sea level, about 50 www.moderna-galerija.hr.
km west of Zagreb. Near the village a plateau is located
where there is a large necropolis burial mound from the www.inyourpocket.com
16 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
28.04 Thursday - 26.06 Sunday
Ivo Dulčić’s Mediterranean – Marking
the centenary of the artist’s birth
A Dalmatian devotee to art most known for his religious
and earthly themes; in celebration of 100 years since
Dulčić’s birth, the exhibition focuses on one of the special
aspects of his work - motifs of Mediterranean landscapes,
regions, scenery and light, which too many is where he
achieved the fullness of his artistic potential.QC‑3, Art
Pavilion in Zagreb, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www.
umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.

MAY - JULY
Dolomiti – National Geographic Croatia
and Georg Tappeiner
Get a first glance of the Dolomites with their spectacular
mountain ranges, romantic alpine meadows and deep blue
lakes. In this travelling photo exhibition, renowned photog-
rapher Georg Tappeiner even captures meteors dispersing
across the skyline above the mountains and lit like flames. In
this bond between man and mountains, we are also remind-
ed of the need to protect our planet.QC‑2, Archaeological
Museum In Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.
amz.hr.

18.05 Wednesday - 21.08 Sunday


The Magnificent Vranyczanys - An Artis-
tic, Historical and Political Framework
of the Family
Paying respect to this amazing noble family that has
Alimov - The 6th Biennial of Illustration, Klovićevi dvori Archives given so much to Croatia and its cities. The Vranyczanys
included great philanthropists, patrons, donors and col-
Protein Dance - Kip Johnson and Sally Marie in LOL (Lots of Love) - lectors, builders of representative structures, successful
Photo by Nino Santos, Dance Week Festival Archives and progressive businessmen and drivers of social life in
the cities in which they had lived (Stari Grad on Hvar, Senj,
Rijeka, Karlovac, and Zagreb). Two years in the making, see
historical documents, artefacts, artworks, archived works
and more. A catalogue will highlight the indelible mark
that the family has left with guided tours and concerts
accompanying the exhibition!QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Mu‑
seum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr.

JUNE - JULY
The 6th Biennial of Illustration
Illustration has become the summer sensation at the
Klovićevi dvori Gallery with another trademark event. Foreign
curators from Russia and Japan are set to partake with the fo-
cus of showing, explaining and documenting illustrations and
animations, and an invited competition for Croatian authors
based on the connection between book illustrations and
animation will be had. See all the latest solutions and innova-
tions in the field!QC‑1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg
4, www.gkd.hr.

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18 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events

16.06 Thursday - 15.08 Monday in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From
The Wild West - A History of Wroclaw’s Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some tradi-
Avant-Garde tional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town
Though behind the iron curtain, the city of Wroclaw in Po- dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to
land flourished in the 1960s and 70s in terms of art. It was a life and giving visitors an insight into the way life... once was!
true phenomenon and this exhibition presents works of art, The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events
documentaries, photos and footage - almost 500 works of vary throughout the morning and afternoon.Qwww.
visual arts, architecture, theatre, film and design, capturing infozagreb.hr.
everyday life in Wroclaw through the eyes of avant-garde
artists that had given art and culture meaning in such times! 22.04 Friday - 24.04 Sunday
A comprehensive catalogue will accompany the exhibition. Swing City Festival
QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, Lovers of dance look out as a multitude of dance workshops
www.msu.hr. will be held by top local and international instructors. From
beginners to experienced dancers, all are welcome to learn
some classic dances including the Lindy Hop, Authentic Jazz,
Special events Charleston, Collegiate Shag, Blues and more. Its retro flair
09.04 Saturday - 16.04 Saturday all the way and evening parties as well as dancing on the
Festival of Tolerance - 10th Jewish Film street of the city centre will add to the spice.QI‑4, Dance,
Festival Zagreb Sport and Fitness Centre, Savska 120, www.swingcity.
It isn’t Hollywood or Bollywood but this popular film fes- jumpandswing.hr. Full Pass 456 - 608kn.
tival serves its purpose in promoting Jewish film, themes
and culture. It’s steered by the festival’s president and dou- 23.04 Saturday - 02.10 Sunday
ble Oscar winner Mr Branko Lustig. Be sure to stay tuned for The Changing of the Guard
session details!QEuropa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Tuškanac A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined the
Cinema, Tuškanac 1, www.festivaloftolerance.com. French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, ev-
ery weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony
18.04 Monday - 14.10 Friday which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms
Zagreb Time Machine Inspection’. March from St Marks Square to other city sites
Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers,
Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure flag-bearers and trumpeters.Qwww.kravatpukovnija.com.

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 19


Culture & Events

Dražen Trogrlić - Zvijezda Mediterana, 2011.


Gustafi - Maneštra Photo by Goran Vranić, Modern Gallery Archives

Dražen Trogrlić - Svetac, 2000.


Photo by Goran Vranić, Modern Gallery Archives Side Project - Reflektor Festival

25.04 Monday - 08.05 Sunday 16.05 Monday - 22.05 Sunday


The Saint Mark’s Festival Zagreb Book Festival 2016: Ireland – The
Followers of classical music and in particular chamber and Promised Land
sacral music will be able to see renowned soloists and In promotion of reading and writing, this is a much need-
ensembles from Croatia and abroad. Concerts are held at ed event with the strengthening of new media; the 5,000
various venues and churches in the city’s Upper and Lower books available can vindicate that. More so, this year’s
town.Qwww.festivalsvmarka.hr. host country is ‘Ireland’, a nation known for its strong liter-
ary tradition and the audience will get to meet and greet
03.05 Tuesday - 08.05 Sunday some of the best contemporary Irish and Croatian writers.
Design Week Zagreb Two countries with so much in common, and so much to
For the second time in Croatia, welcome to a series of share!QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita
events and gatherings not only for designers, but art his- 10, www.zgbookfest.hr.
torians, economists, journalists and the general public
alike. Lectures, exhibitions, workshops and awards will 18.05 Wednesday
draw public attention as a promotion of creativity and International Museum Day
invention.QH‑3, Lauba – The House for People and The Museum Documentation Centre (MDC) alongside
Art, Baruna Filipovića 23a, www.lauba.hr. many Croatian museums will organise over 200 different
events, exhibitions, workshops, lectures and concerts. So
04.05 Wednesday - 07.05 Saturday if you love your fair share of history and art come and cel-
The Showcase of a Contemporary ebrate with the city of Zagreb.Qwww.mdc.hr.
Sound
With its openness to new, experimental and technologi- 20.05 Friday - 05.06 Sunday
cally developed contemporary sounds, this music festi- Screen on the Green
val is slowly cementing its place as an event which brings The Open Air Festival of Films will take place in the most
a breath of fresh air to the Croatian contemporary music popular parks around the city. Film screenings are free of
scene. Its open and unlimited concept with no specific charge and visitors can enjoy some of the most films from
genres and musical styles makes it both unconventional around the world. So, pick up a blanket and some snacks
yet very creative. Stay tuned for line-up announcements. and come lounge in the park with your loved ones. Watch
QB‑4, Student’s Centre, Savska cesta 25, www.izlog. a movie under the stars for a unique, new experience.
sczg.hr. Qwww.screen.com.hr.

20 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Culture & Events
26.05 Thursday - 05.06 Sunday
The 20th Cest is d’Best the 15th festival of the
Annual street festival packed with free concerts, circus attrac-
tions, dance, art shows plus much more. According to tradition, european short story
it is the audience that gets involved and participates.Qwww.
29.05 Sunday - 03.06 Friday
cestisdbest.com.
Short, sweet, dynamic and packed with loads of fun is
the best way to describe the European Short Story Fes-
28.05 Saturday - 29.05 Sunday
tival, an international literary festival in Zagreb which
LegendFest
every year brings together the world’s best writers and
Head out to the small village of Lukavec, towards Velika Gorica
winners of the most respected literary prizes such as the
for this festival of myths, legends and stories. The castle and its
Pulitzer, the Man Booker Prize, the Independent, Strega,
surrounding woods are the perfect setting to meet some of the
Dublin IMPAC, Frank O’Connor or the American National
dragons from various Croatian legends, there are old crafts for
Book Award.
show, treasure to be found and much more for both children
Literature lovers will lavish at the fact that various
and adults alike.QLukavec, www.legendfest.hr. Entrance
award-winning writers from four different continents
free.
will gather in Zagreb to discuss the most current of all
topics suitably titled ON/NO TRESSPASSING, thus de-
30.05 Monday - 05.06 Sunday
fining the short story festival as equally rebellious and
Floraart 2016 - International Garden
almost as thorough as the topic of Europe.
Exhibition
Where are our borders and what is it that awaits us out-
Flower power takes on Zagreb! Being one of the biggest horti-
side of them? When it comes to the ‘Short Story’, the
cultural events in Europe, hundreds of exhibitors from Croatia
response may seem simple; no matter how different
and the rest of the world turn Bundek Park into an oasis of beau-
they are, definitions always revolve around the number
tiful flowers and colours. A whole range of events will include
of characters or the number of pages, the relationship
the Florists Croatian Cup to lectures, workshops, concerts and a
towards the plot and time or the literary forms which
special program for children in Floragrad. Free admission to all
delimit it - but what of the people who write stories?
events!QJ‑4, Bundek Park, www.zrinjevac.hr.
What of those to whom the story is not fictional but a
true reality? What is ‘forbidden’ and ‘foreign’ to the au-
End of May - Mid of September
thor and how do they relate to the boundaries/bans?
Strossmartre - Summer on Stross
Where do we stop in life and where with art? How is
Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next
and where is a writer’s passport valued - how does it
to the Lotršćak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the
serve him while approaching the limits of language and
range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on of-
genre, ethical and poetic, cultural and social, political
fer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the
and gender? And how does he cope with the restric-
festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!QB‑2,
tions that each of these bring?
Strossmayer Promenade, www.ljetonastrosu.com.
The winner of the Independent Award and the only
person who received it for a book of stories written in
03.06 Friday - 04.06 Saturday
Arabic - Hassan Blas (Iraq /Finland); the winner of the
Reflektor Art and Music Festival
Prix Femina Kerry Hudson (Scotland /UK); the stars of
This is the new kid on the block in terms of festivals, a boutique
contemporary Mexican (Yuri Herrera) and Argentinian
type festival with lots of international and local flavour and
literature (Samantha Schweblin and Andrés Neuman),
flair. The two day event is set at Tuškanac in the heart of town
the best writers from neighbouring countries to Croatia
with two female singers and songwriters in UK artist Ana Calvi
Drago Jančar (Slovenia), Faruk Šehić(Bosnia and Her-
and our very own Lovely Quinces (Dunja Ercegović) headlin-
zegovina) and Rumena Bužarovska (Macedonia); well-
ing, electro-pop attraction Side Project will follow. Day two
known authors to the Croatian audience Frode Grytten
sees the alternative rock duo Blood Red Shoes and another
(Norway), Josip Novakovich (Canada) and Afonso Cruz
rock act in Jonathan from Rijeka performing. This event will be
(Portugal) as well as those to whom we have not had
boasted by exhibitions, readings and an after party programme.
the pleasure of meeting as yet - Bel Olid (Catalonia/
QB‑1, Tuškanac Cinema Plateau, www.facebook.com/
Spain), Lina Wolff (Sweden), Cosmin Perţa (Romania),
reflektorfest. Starts at 19:00. Tickets 60 - 140kn.
and Rosella Milone (Italy). These are just some of the
guests of the festival who will present, read, discuss
04.06 Saturday - 05.06 Sunday
and reflect on the aforementioned borders, helping
The 31st Old-timer Rally
us to recognise them around us and perhaps exceed
Vroom vroom! This fair and rally of vintage cars and motorcycles
them within ourselves.QTeatar &td, Savska 25; Booksa,
has been running for over three decades and has become a two-
Martićeva 14d; Italian Cultural Institute, Preobraženska
day trademark city event; bringing back the good old days for
4; Vinyl, Bogovićeva ulica 3; Bogdan Ogrizović Library,
many and giving the new generation an eye-catching glimpse
Preradovićeva 5, www.europeanshortstory.org.
of former beauties that used to rule the streets!QVarious loca‑
tions across city, www.oldtimer-klub-zagreb.hr.

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 21


Culture & Events
06.06 Monday - 11.06 Saturday
The World Festival of Animated Film
- Animafest Zagreb
Are you passionate about animation? This is the second old-
est festival of its kind in Europe which attracts intriguing world
animations. With awards, pitching forums and the advocacy
on animation essential to the event, it is of no wonder that it’s
a magnet for known and wannabe authors and producers in
the field.Qwww.animafest.hr.

16.06 Thursday - 19.06 Sunday


Design District Zagreb
An inspiring and creative four-day urban event catering to de-
sign lovers as well as the general public! It’s all about the chang-
ing look of city districts with aspontaneous organic renais-
sance taking place;the rise of galleries, farmer’s markets, cafes,
bookshops, florists etc. Expect numerous pop-up showcases,
site-specific art installations, rooftop events, exclusively guided
architectural tours, socially valuable designer concepts, gastro
& coffee spots, and educative and craft workshops.QVarious
locations across city centre, www.designdistrict.hr.

17.06 Friday - 19.06 Sunday


Fireworks Festival
What better to warm up to summer then to see this grand
fireworks festival right by the River Sava. Venture down to Lake
Bundek as a myriad of beer tents and concerts provide the on-
ground entertainment whereas the fireworks, which are held
every evening, will set the sky alive.QJ‑4, Bundek Lake, www.
en.mirnovec.hr.

20.06 Monday - 22.06 Wednesday


INmusic festival #11
Welcome to a smashing European festival which is in its 11th
year. Lake Jarun is home to some mega artists which this year
includes Florence and the Machine, PJ Harvey, Skunk Anansie,
Gutterdammerung featuring Henry Rollins, Jake Bugg, The
Kooks, Wilco and more. Crank it!QG‑4/5, Jarun Lake, www.
inmusicfestival.com. Festival ticket: 300kn. Camping ticket:
202.5kn.

22.06 wednesday - 23.06 thursday


Zagreb Calling
A double whammy of ‘music for the masses’ at the open air
Šalata venue with Mick Hucknall and his band ‘Simply Red’
headlining the first day and are sure to serenade the crowd with
their chart topping hits. Croatian icons Jinx and Natali Dizdar
will play on through the first night. Day two sees John New-
man gracing the stage with his soulful voice and growing hits
including ‘Love me again, Losing Sleep, Out of my head, and
Feel the Love’ which were all world hits. QTickets 170 - 320kn.

24.06 Friday - 16.07 Saturday


Summer in MSU
The third edition of this highly successful multimedia program
filled with concerts, exhibitions, film screenings and interna-
tional literature panels will once again take place at Zagreb’s
Museum of Contemporary Art.QJ-4, Contemporary Art Mu‑
Cest is d’best Archives
seum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.
22 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events

27.06 Monday - 20.07 Wednesday


The 35th Zagreb Summer Evenings
A usual, this year’s edition of this prominent classical
music festival will once again host some of the best and
most renowned Croatian and international musicians,
soloists and chamber ensembles, do stay tuned for
the latest in the line-up.QC‑1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery,
Jezuitski trg 4, www.kdz.hr.

30.06 Thursday - 09.07 Saturday


Fantastic Zagreb Film Festival
Let’s all have some fresh air, literally and artistically, with
a wonderful and refreshing range of top-notch films
from all over the world during this unique open-air film
festival. It’s an awesome week to contemplate movies
and stars that justly deserve the mental musings.
Qwww.fantastic-zagreb.com.

30.06 Thursday - 03.07 Sunday


Vintage Zagreb
Rockabilly is back, the best of the 40s, 50s and 60s can be
experienced at this suave festival of fashion, style, hair-
style, music, art and design. Swing is back, slicked hair is
in and the party begins. Be a part of this great Americana
type experience which gives Fonzie from the Happy
Days a stroll down memory lane.QC‑2, Ulica Augusta
Cesarca, www.facebook.com/VintageZagrebFestival.

www.inyourpocket.com John Newman - Zagreb Calling Archives

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 23


Culture & Events
ALl jazzed up!
The beauty of jazz is that it can be any tempo, texture,
or rhythm, and it leaves room for improvisation where
the musician or group ‘go wild, go all out, and revel in
showing off their talents’. We know this ohhh too well
which explains why this Spring’s Zagreb Calendar is so
jazzalicious!

06.04 Wednesday
Kazushi Ono - Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra Archives
HRT Jazz Orchestra feat. Terell Staf-
ford - The Cat
Terell Stafford a trumpeter, composer, bandleader and
educator from New York, will be performing some of
his newest compositions with HRT Jazz Orchestra this
spring. This talented musician is head of the Jazz Or-
chestra of Philadelphia and a Lecturer at the Temple
University, and has performed with famous groups,
such as the Grammy-winning Vanguard Orchestra.
QJ‑4, Gorgona Hall, Contemporary Art Museum,
Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.jazz.hr. Concert starts
at 20:00. Tickets 50kn.

13.04 Wednesday - 16.04 Saturday


Jazz.hr/Spring 2016
The Vatroslav Lisinski Small Concert Hall will be illumi-
Andrea Solomon & Ema Janković - Prison of Decision, Dance Week Festival Archives nated once again with this cracking annual Jazz event.
The four day bonanaza will include the Joachim Kühn,
then there is NeTTwork which is known for its distinc-
tive sound and spectacular improvisations of jazz
standards, and that of other genres too. Ratko Vojtek
Solo is Croatia’s bad boy of jazz who is known for his
unconvential yet breathtaking piano work and finally
Czech jazz bassist Miroslav Vitous will be joined by the
Croatian Radio and Television’s Jazz Orchestra, Vitous
is known as one of the most creative improvisers of
jazz double bass today.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Small
Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.jazz.hr.
Concerts start at 20:00. Tickets 70kn.

04.05 Wednesday
Croatian Radio and Television Jazz
Eric Sardinas Orchestra - Tu fragancia: Miron
Hauser’s Artist’s Night
Gerriet K. Sharma - Photo by Kristijan Smok, Muzički centar Archives After Kadoić, Križić, Kovačević, Žužić and Marinello,
Miron Hauser gets to steal this year’s limelight. Hauser
is the orchestra’s trombonist who studied jazz at the
Universities of Graz and Trieste and finds his inspiration
mostly in the Latin style, therefore a lush brass section
and richness of rhythms can be expected which he’ll
blend into his own virtuoso expression and style.QJ‑4,
Gorgona Hall, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija
Dubrovnik 17, www.jazz.hr. Concert starts at 20:00.

www.inyourpocket.com

24 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants
Croatian
Didov san
Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef
and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style.
The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked
bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine se-
lection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva
28.QB‑1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/
(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan.com,
www.konoba-didovsan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). P­A­L­G­W

Isabella
A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15
minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a converted
barn, with a superb raftered dining room, where they offer
up all kinds of meals with local and international accents
(such as fondue, flambeed dishes and chateaubriand).
The emphasis is definitely on meat - they have a game
section on the menu, and frogs’ legs. QVinogorska 55,
tel. (+385-1) 200 63 73, restaurant@isabella.hr, www.
restoran-isabella.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(65 - 110kn). P­L­N­G­B­W

Okrugljak
Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputa-
tion because of its star-studded ambience and food. At
the base of Medvednica.QD‑2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1)
467 41 12, okrugljak@okrugljak.hr, www.okrugljak.hr.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn). P­A­L­E­G­B­W
Fajn Bistro Archives
Pivana
Having recently undergone a major facelift there was Vinodol
genuine curiosity as to how Pivana would emerge from it Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well
all. Have no fear, because somehow the food is even better known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the
now. More of a beer & pub food orientated menu, the only traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is
complaint to be had is that the food tasted of ‘more’. Ribs, perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light
burgers, and sauces abound. Tables with private taps are flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to
available, and with the parent brewery putting more op- smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended.
tions on the market you’ll not have a bad time here.QH‑3, QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1)
Ilica 222, tel. (+385-1) 377 53 77. Open Mon - Wed 07:00 481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www.vinodol-zg.hr.
- 24:00, Thu - Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun Open 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). P­J­A­6­G­B­W
10:00 - 22:00. P­A­L­G­B­X­W

Stari fijaker 900 Meet the meat


A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favou- Batak grill
rite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the pictur- A full review for Batak would literally take pages. This
esque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town, restaurant chain already covers most of the city. Highly
Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere trained and polite staff, the menu is always being kept
and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Za- fresh. A recommendation is close to impossible to pick,
gorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array but if pushed you simply have to try the mazalica with
of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers, urnebes. Divine.QK‑2, Vlaška 115, tel. (+385-1) 466 43 31,
both domestic and international, is available in what is ap- kvatric@batak-grill.hr, www.batak-grill.hr. Open 11:00 -
parently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls.QB‑2, Mesnička 23:00. (35 - 70kn). P­T­A­6­V­G­B­X­S­W
6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, info@
starifijaker.hr, www.starifijaker.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80kn). P­A­G­X­W twitter.com/inyourpocket

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 25


Restaurants
International
ManO
Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this a
gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation. The
meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its orienta-
tion - you´ll definitely find something that takes you away
from the run of the mill. Excellent wines. Reserve in advance.
QI‑2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 94 32, mano@
mano.hr, www.mano.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(80 - 150kn). P­A­G­B­W

Zinfandels
Zinfandels, named for a variety of grape which originated in
Croatia, specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food, us-
ing local and international know-how to best create great
dishes which resonate with regional authenticity. The huge
štrukli is well worth trying, and if you were to try two, no
one could fault you.QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Za‑
greb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1) 456 66 66,
zinfandels@esplanade.hr, www.zinfandels.hr. Open 06:00
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
- 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn). P­A­G­B­W

Seafood Italian
Dubravkin put Agava
Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers
this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall Mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate sal-
entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood de- ads and a great wine list.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1)
lights. The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh 482 98 26, info@restaurant-agava.hr, www.restaurant-
and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection agava.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (57 - 290kn). J­A­G­
alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sun- B­W
day best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable
fine-dining affair.QB‑1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1) Cantina
483 49 75, info@dubravkin-put.com, www.dubravkin- A little piece of Italy in the heart of Zagreb. Here you’ll find
put.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 150kn). the menu brimming with handmade pasta, sauce, and bread.
P­J­A­L­G­B­W It’s a blend of Italian tradition, passion, and know-how, and
of course the almost stereotypical Italian chef singing in the
Korčula kitchen while preparing everything, show-cooking style. The
Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery shelves are awash with wines on offer, and Cantina might well
as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been be the only place in Zagreb (if not the entire country) where
doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to un- you can get your hands on a sparkling red wine. There’s even
derstand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to Italian beer on the menu. There’s talk of new locations open-
have to go far to do it, this is your place.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle ing soon, so get in there before everyone else learns about
17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, boban.korcula@gmail.com, it.QD‑2, Trg Drage Iblera 10, tel. (+385-) 091 592 59 03,
www.restoran-korcula.hr. Open 10:30 - 23:00. Closed www.cantina.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:30 - 23:00.
Sun. (70 - 120kn). P­J­A­G­B­W Closed Sun. (18 - 65 kn). P­i ­T­J­A­B­S

Ribice i tri točkice Carpaccio


With colorfully whimsical, dream-like images of the Adri- Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this
atic adorning each wall and window, treat all your senses robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From
to a seaside dinner getaway at Fish and Three Dots in the carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and complement-
city’s center. Be sure to ask for the daily specials of fish, fish ed from a near endless selection of wines. While retaining
and more fish offered at this seafood bistro that’s wrapped an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly renovated
in the heart-lifting artistry of Rijeka’s Vojo Radoičić.QC‑2, bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to indulge and
Ulica Petra Preradovića 7/1, tel. (+385-1) 563 54 79, enjoy.QC‑2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 23 31, carpaccio@
info@ribiceitritockice.hr, www.ribiceitritockice.hr. Open ristorantecarpaccio.hr, www.ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 80kn). P­J­A­G­B­W 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 150kn). P­J­A­G­B­W

26 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants
Chic & Cheerful
Cušpajz
Enjoy a warm and hearty stew, or as the Croatians like to
call it, cušpajz, in this quaint little restaurant which feels
like a vegetable garden and is a delight to dine in. Slurp
your stew as you snuggle into a cozy little alcove indoors
or sit under a shaded canvas outdoors enjoying the sites
and sounds of the downtown. Everyday you can choose
between a veggie or meat cušpajz dish. The menu chang-
es daily so you’ll never get bored and will want to come
back again and again for more.QC‑2, Ljudevita Gaja 9, tel.
(+385-1) 487 50 45, info@cuspajz.hr, www.cuspajz.hr.
Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 38kn. P­J­N­G­B

Mali Bar
Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot
carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed,
happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the
decor with over thirty business casual making up the ma-
jor hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a
tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-
1) 553 10 14, malibar.zagreb@gmail.com. Open 12:30 -
23:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 90kn). P­A­G­B­W

Sherry’s Wine & Bites


Sherry’s, once over by Dom Sportova, and now occupying
the former premises of Bistro Bardot in the courtyard fac-
ing Britanac. Here you could be excused for spending an
hour at least perusing the wines available, but it would be geoning chefs among you, while the restaurant has a menu
an hour well spent. Croatian craft beer on tap, and some packed full of familiar items, and some not so familiar. Con-
vibrant and interesting items on the food menu. Try their nected to the Asia Gold restaurant, so you know it’s quality.
Sunday brunch, we think you’ll be pleased.QA‑2, Ilica 73 QC‑2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 468 38 86, asiathouse@gmail.com,
(in the yard), tel. (+385-1) 400 81 50/(+385-) 091 250 77 www.asia-thouse.com.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 150kn).
12, sherry@sherrys.eu, www.sherrys.eu. Open 10:00 -
24:00, Wed - Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (35 - 160kn). P­T­J­ California Burrito
A­6­G­B­W Nestled neatly at the back of a courtyard, this eatery should
be considered an ideal place to stop at the end of the night, or
indeed as a quiet alternative to more central locations. A wide
Ethnic selection of regional beers is available, as well as one Mexican
Asia import, and is most suitable for a Friday evening after-work
Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s wind-down.QB‑2, Masarykova 11, tel. (+385-) 095 169 64
also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the 73, info@burrito.hr, www.burrito.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT de- Closed Sun. (19 - 29kn). P­V­N­G­B­S­W
cor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact
it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently Royal India
top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Located by the Zagreb Cathedral, Royal India is the perfect
Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine. Situated in the
(+385-1) 484 12 18, rezervacije@asia.hr, www.asia.hr. basement, the scent of incense greets you at the door and
Open 11:30 - 23:00. (29 - 125kn). P­A­G­W creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some samosas, tan-
doori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or cardamom
Asia T House tea along with a wide variety of other delicious dishes. Be
Zagreb has seen a rise in non-regional cuisine in recent careful when ordering your food spicy because unlike most
months and years, and all of it very much welcomed in- of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food really is spicy. Best of
deed. Here, just around the corner from the main square, all, the extremely friendly staff recommends the best dishes
you can call in for tea, coffee, beer, most of it with a distinct with the freshest ingredients for the day.QC‑1, Kaptol 27, tel.
Asian feel to it. But it’s not just a place for a break from (+385-1) 468 09 65, royalindiazg@gmail.com, www.royal-
shopping, it’s a place TO shop, and to eat. The market is india-zagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
expansive and offers a great many ingredients for the bur- (35 - 95kn). P­J­A­G­W

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 27


Restaurants
Fajn Bistro
‘Fajn’ dining indeed here, as any regular will tell you. Well
known for its exceptionally friendly staff, Fajn is situated
in Zagreb’s Upper Town, well within striking distance of
a multitude of tourist sites, and Zagreb’s plentiful water-
ing holes. Mediterranean, international and contempo-
rary food is on offer, and the wine menu won’t disap-
point.QB‑1, Vranyczanyeva 6, tel. (385-1) 485 14 11,
kucahrane@gmail.com, www.fajnbistro.com.hr. Open
13:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (50 - 120kn). P­T­J­A­
L­G­B­X­W

Lateral
Situated behind the Main Bus Station, Lateral is already
getting pretty good press from, for the most part it must
be said, weary travellers glad of being able to enjoy a
proper meal, and still be near their bus to the airport. The
food, the desserts, the wine list… No complaints can be
had. The hot chocolate brownie is definitely something
that will draw you back for seconds.QE‑4, Strojarska 22,
tel. (+385-1) 611 14 11/(+385-) 098 43 30 55, lateral@
cateringlisak.hr, www.cateringlisak.hr. Open 11:00
- 22:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 150kn). P­T­A­U­G­B­
X­W

Pod Zidom Coffee, Food & Wine Bar


Pod Zidom (Under the Wall) is a wine bar and bistro, it
offers dishes made from the fresh groceries which it gets
from the nearby Dolac market, a wide selection of Croatian
indigenous wines, as well as the usual array of cocktails
and refreshments. A must try is Ručak s Dolca (Lunch from
Dolac), as every ingredient is prepared with care, creativity,
and love. From 11:00 to 23:00, every day, Pod Zidom has
Cantina Archives a special a la carte menu, featuring beef carpaccio, pork
sliders, agnolotti with rabbit ragu, spring asparagus and
Time Restaurant & Bar
broad beans risotto, chicken drumstick-thigh cooked in a
Time, in a classical sense, might be fleeting, but this place
vacuum, liquid chocolate cake. QC‑2, Pod Zidom 5, tel.
certainly isn’t. Perhaps better known to many as a great
(+385-) 098 66 96 90, info@podzidom.hr. Open 11:00 -
bar, Time is also a restaurant serving Asian fusion food,
23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (30 - 75kn). E­B
something not so common in Zagreb even a few years
ago. Whatever you order make sure you try the spring
rolls with duck.QC‑2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 Pizza
60. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat
09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 160kn). P­T­J­A­ Franky’s
G­B­K­X Eat in or have it delivered, Franky’s is situated just north
of Zagreb’s nightlife district in the Kaptol Centre (2nd
floor), so is a handy place to grab a bite (and have a drink)
Lunches before heading home, and in relative peace and quiet
Bistro Jadranka too. Do your shopping, settle in for a meal, enjoy a glass
Perhaps not exactly central, Bistro Jadranka is near enough of wine. Franky’s does white pizza, which is not always
to the centre to be accessible, but far enough away that something you’ll see in any pizzeria.QI‑2, Nova ves 17,
your fellow guests are likely to be locals. Menu changes tel. (+385-1) 486 08 34, mguberina2@gmail.com. Open
each Monday, with extra fish dishes added each Friday. 10:00 - 22:45. (22 - 63kn). P­T­J­A­U­L­V­G­B­
Has an active Facebook account where you can find out X­S­W
what’s available in a given week. You can pick your own
wine from the shop next door, and have it with your meal
for a small surcharge.QI‑3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 56, tel. facebook.com/
(+385-1) 611 35 18. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. zagrebinyourpocket
Closed Sun. (30 - 129kn). P­i ­A­G­B­S

28 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants

kod Žaca repast. Kitchen closes at 22:00QB‑2, Masarykova 11/1, tel.


If you’ve not heard of this place then you’ve not spoken (+385-1) 889 74 44/(+385-) 099 254 69 59, contactzagreb@
to anyone living within its delivery radius. Known for its nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open
pizza and lasagne you could probably eat here all month 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (49 - 69kn). P­T­J­A­6­
long and still have something new to try. Zagreb is truly G­W
blessed when it comes to pizza, and it’s nigh impossible to
suggest a must-try for here…but the biftek pizza probably Šumski Kuhar Bistro
edges it.QJ‑2, Nike Grškovića 4, tel. (+385-1) 468 41 78, Slap bang in the middle of the bustling centre, this first
www.pizzakodzaca.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 70kn). floor venue feels like it could be miles from any noise what-
P­T­6­V­N­G­S­W soever. All ingredients are sourced in Croatia where pos-
sible, and the dessert menu would put many slastičarnice
O’Hara to shame.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 96 34,
O’Hara’s is well known throughout Zagreb, having seen sumskikuharbistro@gmail.com, www.sumskikuhar.com.
their pizza chefs win award after award, after award. The Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 55kn). P­J­A­
western suburbs of the capital might seem an odd place 6­G­B­W
for a pizzeria such as this, but the locals aren’t complain-
ing, and nor are the many others who travel across the Zrno Bio Bistro
city to eat here. Everything tastes divine, and while you 100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can
might come away thinking you could have eaten more, boast such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional
you will not feel the least bit hungry. That’s a guarantee. wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with
QF‑3, I.B.Mažuranić 1b, tel. (+385-1) 379 21 12, www. a narrow terrace outside if the weather allows. There’s a
oharazagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (39 bookstore in the basement as well, for budding architects.
- 86kn). P­T­A­G­B­X­S QB‑2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, restoran@
bio-zrno.hr, www.zrnobiobistro.hr. Open 12:00 - 21:30.
Zero Zero Closed Sun. (45 - 59kn). P­A­6­G­B­W
Zero Zero sits near a corner of Vlaška, not far from the
tramline, and it’s transport you’ll need after eating here…
The pizzas are HUGE, and taste of more. The food is Nea- Join the conversation with IYP
politan, and we’d love to tell you more about the décor
and general surrounds, but the meat and seafood pizzas
kept the reviewers glued to their plates. Great for dates,
family gatherings, or even a solo trip.QD‑2, Vlaška 35,
tel. (+385-1) 889 70 00. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 -
23:00. (20 - 69kn). P­T­J­A­U­G­B­X­W SYMBOL key

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted


Vege Restaurants
Nishta T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
The menu has adequate depth and variety, and you’ll see
a wonderful mix of cold raw, and hot cooked vegetarian B Outside seating L Guarded parking
dishes. The menu also contains vegan and gluten-free
dishes for those more in tune with Mother Nature. En- S Take away 6 Pet-friendly
joy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that
W Wifi J Old town location
Nishta has to offer. Staff is very helpful and will assist in
choosing an option for those unfamiliar with vegetarian
29 Zagreb
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket
In Your Pocket Spring 2016 29
Restaurants
BREAKFAST
Bistro Fotić
Vegetarian quiche with ham, omelets, coffee, freshly
squeezed oranges, fried bread, whole-grain groat, eggs,
apple and cheese strudel.QC‑3, Gajeva 25, tel. (+385-1)
481 04 76, kontakt@bistrofotic.com, www.bistrofotic.
com. Breakfast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 11:00. Closed
Sun. (20 - 40kn). i­J

Bistroteka
Oatmeal, porridge, scrambled eggs, poached eggs, qui-
noa, and sandwiches with avocado.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 14,
tel. (+385-1) 483 77 11, www.bistroteka.hr. Breakfast is
Bistroteka Archives
served: Mon - Fri 08:00 - 11:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed
Sun. (19 - 30kn). i­J

Johann Franck
Homemade cheese and sour cream, bacon and onion, glu-
ten-free bread, omelet with cheese and mushrooms, turkey
sandwich with mozzarella, toast, croissants with chocolate
and jam.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, johann.franck@
johannfranck.hr, www.franck.eu/johann-franck/. Break‑
fast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. (25
- 40kn). i­J

Kava Tava
How do you like your eggs? Cooked, scrambled or sunny-
side-up? Not to mention bacon ‘n’ eggs, sausages ‘n’ eggs,
toasts, Yankee Doodle pancakes, cottage cheese with
cream, tortillas.QA‑2; C‑2, Britanski trg & Tkalčićeva ulica
12, info@tomtom.hr, www.kavatava.com. Breakfast is
served: 07:00 - 24:00. (14 - 110kn). i­J

Johann Franck Archives Louie Cafe & Kitchen


English breakfast (eggs, bacon, sausages and mushrooms),
Cantina Archives a protein smoothie, yogurt with chia seeds, croissants, muf-
fins, homemade focaccia with chicken, roast beef sand-
wiches and burgers.QC‑1, Nova Ves 19, tel. (+385-1) 466
61 59. Breakfast is served: Mon - Thu, Sun 08:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. (18 - 58kn). i­J

Mundoaka Street Food - Food with


Heart and Soul
Poached eggs with salmon, brioche, toast, croissants, and
muffin.QC‑2, Petrinjska 2, tel. (+385-1) 788 87 77, info@
mundoakastreetfood.com. Breakfast is served: Mon -
Sat 09:00 - 11:30. Closed Sun. (35 - 45kn). i­J

The Brick Booze & Bites


The menu sways more towards Istrian cuisine offering
scrambled eggs with truffles, omul, asparagus, coffee,
juice, champagne, bread with jam, pancakes, sandwiches
with Istrian prosciutto and cheese, and Istrian fritters
(pancake with Istrian curd and honey)QC‑1, Radićeva 36,
thebrickboozeandbites@gmail.com. Breakfast is served:
Mon - Thu, Sun 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (35-
55kn). i­J

30 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Local Flavour
Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at
hit the market Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma.
If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won’t want to There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we
miss the farmers’ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young
neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese
vegetables, while at the larger markets you’ll also find meat, (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with paprika, nettle, herbs or
fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more. made with goat’s or sheep’s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out
for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from Pag
The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide. island.
Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the
lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunt- A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage,
ing experience. You have to find a way to communicate with part natural history adventure. The creatures of the deep
the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships with whose gaze you’ll meet you’ve probably never seen before.
their favourite stallholders over years, you’re here just for the Along with shimmering crates of sardines are plump pink
weekend. How can you be sure you’re not short-changed or scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic
given spoiled produce? squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, fearsomely-toothed,
delicious and hideously expensive dentex. If you’re not sure
​ on’t be fooled into thinking that just because this is an
D how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usu-
open-air market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If ally gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for
you look carefully you can spot the importers - the fruit is fish with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes. There’s
a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it fish to suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sar-
might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its pack- dine (just 20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all.
aging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is
buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yesterday At the far end of the open-air part of Dolac market you’ll find
at the latest). It’s travelled into town in a big chequered bag herbal teas and tinctures and traditional craft items such as
with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies lace tablecloths, embroidered slippers and wooden toys.
are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the Above is a plateau named after Petrica Kerempuh, a literary
city’s markets they’ve earned their own statue at the top of character. The Kerempuh restaurant is a great spot for a tasty
the steps on Dolac market (C-2). Or it might be trucked in lunch, and the Potepuh café has been the meeting place of
from the coast where it’s spent its life under the warm Dal- artists and intellectuals for decades, including poet Tin Ujević
matian sun. and novelist Miroslav Krleža. In summer, you can buy bedding
plants, herbs and other supplies for your garden or window
See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That’s a box in this part of the market. Go a little further along Opa-
good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn’t tovina (C-1) and you’ll find stalls selling cheap clothing.
raised on artificial substrate so it’s full of flavour. With a bit
of luck it’s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides Down the Dolac steps and towards the square are flower
either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of stalls, a mirror held up to the changing seasons. Along with
goods that tell you they’re smallholders, not large-scale trad- hothouse staples there are always narcissi in the spring, chry-
ers. Seek out imperfections in the produce - natural food is santhemums in autumn, and lavender and sunflowers to help
not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud you pay homage to the summer.
(but not too much water, that’s a trick to add weight on the
scales). As you can see, your shopping spree on Dolac is hard work
so you deserve a break. A legendary place for a light lunch is
The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of Bistro Amfora, strategically positioned under the arches by the
Zagreb since 1930, and it’s one of the liveliest spots in the fish market. The place hasn’t changed in the past 30 years; it’s
city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it’s full of banter, barter, one of the last reminders of Zagreb in years gone by and the
chatter, shouting and laughter. It’s fringed by cafes and little locals gather from dawn to chew over the day’s gossip. The
food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sight- smell of frying squid and sardines is irresistible. A main course
seeing schedule. (we suggest crni rižot, squid ink risotto) and a glass of wine
will set you back just a few euro.
If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll want to avoid the meat section
where you’ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all The other main Zagreb markets include Britanski trg (A-2)
over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it’s (affectionately known as Britanac), which transforms into an
a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the super- antiques market on Sundays; and Trešnjevački plac (H-3)
market; there’s no kidding you where that pork chop came and Kvatrić (Kvaternikov trg J-3) - also largeish markets
from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured with good fish sections and much more.
hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a
little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge So, pick up your basket and head for the market! Great food,
of children everywhere, offal. good cheer and some super photo opportunities await you.
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 31
Local Flavour
The Foodie’s Guide 21.05 Saturday
12.05 Thursday - 22.05 Sunday Flavours and fragrances of Croatia
Zagreb Beer & Burger Festival Under the motto ‘fall in love with Croatian traditional cui-
Many of you know the classic ‘two all beef paddies on a sine’, everyone is invited to this brand new event which
sesame seed bun commercial’ and you’ll be seeing plenty aims to promote the wide range of national foods and
of buns and burgers at the Strossmayer Square in May. dishes that are distinguished by their unique taste, aroma
Starve if you need to, but come with empty tummies and and consistency. Feel free to dabble and experiment in
full pockets so that you can eat and drink to your hearts premium foods and beverages and see why table culture
content with the best Beers and Burgers in town, this is an is an indispensable part of Croatian life.Qwww.phs.hr.
invite to our vegetarian friends too, there’s plenty of va-
riety for everyone!QC‑3, Trg Josipa Jurja Strossmayera. 09.06 Thursday - 10.07 Sunday
Foodbalerka - Retro Gourmet Football
Burger - Louie Cafe & Kitchen Archives Festival
The European Football Championships can be seen live
and on big screens at Park Ribnjak, just behind the Ca-
thedral. The name of the event is a cross between food
& football, and most of all the mullet hairstyles that soc-
cer players had in the 80s, named fudbalerka in Croatian.
Lots of food and beverage stands will have you pacing up
and down the park, bring a blanket and get into the EURO
championships in style!QD‑1, Ribnjak Park.

Cooking workshops for tourists with


disabilities
In the City Centre, at Nova Ves 10, the UNUO Association
has organised free culinary weekend workshops for tour-
ists with disabilities. Groups are small, so reserve your
spot at www.unuo.hr (prijava) and learn how to make
traditional Croatian specialities in a comfortable environ-
ment full of uninterrupted enjoyment, socialising, and fun.
Besides tourists with disabilities, everyone else can also
join the workshop!QC‑1, UNUO Association, Nova Ves
10, www.unuo.hr.
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
The Little Market from the Attic
Many people feel they’d love to have better access to
healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time,
producers of organic food need better access to custom-
ers. The Little Market from the Attic (Mali plac s Ta-
vana) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to
have a lot of fun along the way. Here you can find all kinds
of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croa-
tia, plus natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cleaning products
and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you
can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural
healthy food. For locations and dates check their website.
Qwww.mali-plac.org. J

Wine School by Jelena Šimić Valentić


Love wine! Wanna learn more? Enroll into these work-
shops which provide for 15 to 20 people. They consist of
three 180 minute sessions per month with the exact dates
to be released two weeks prior to school starting. Classes
always begin at 18:30 and four international wines will al-
ways be tasted!Qtel. (+385-) 098 165 80 73, pupitres@
pupitres.hr, www.pupitres.hr.

www.inyourpocket.com
32 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Coffee & Cakes
Coffee
A Most Unusual Garden
Enter a garden, not just any garden, a garden filled with
decoration and as you begin to hear the chimes and
rhythm, you’ll stumble across a tree house turn café.
This architectural masterpiece is decked out in a lush
bohemian style, fancy yet rustic. Hot’n’cold beverages
are available all day round and you can choose to chill sky
high or down to earth, if you know what we mean.QH‑4,
Horvaćanska 3, tel. (+385-) 091 464 69 00. Open 08:00
- 24:00. P­G­B­X­W

Booksa
Chill, laid back, Booksa could be a bookshop or library for
all the reading material on offer. Come in, order from a
wide selection of teas, pick a book off the shelf, and relax.
There are also readings and workshops on a regular basis.
A far-reaching vision indeed.QD‑2, Martićeva 14d, tel.
(+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr.
Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. 6­N­G­B­W

Dežman Bar
Dežmanova is surely Zagreb’s most hip street. Already
home to great fast food joints and cafes, it’s also where Velvet Archives
you’ll find Dežman Bar with its cocktails, snacks and pas-
tries. It’s gluten free, if you’re concerned about allergens,
and it stocks Croatian beers. But don’t worry if you think Express Bar
it’s somehow a ‘hippy’ bar… they have a BBQ sandwich It’s an unassuming looking place, but with friendly staff
on the menu too!QB‑2, Dežmanova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 (but oh so skilled), and a pretty decent selection of coffee
61 60, info@dezman.hr, www.dezman.hr. Open 08:00 - and tea blends. Plenty of seating both indoors and outside,
24:00, Fri - Sat 08:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. P­i ­T­J­ naturally, on the street. Coffee? Purely seasonal and is based
B­X­W on fresh harvest and freshly roasted coffee. Express has
‘blends’, a mixture of coffee most often from different coun-
Divas tries, so Costa Rica, Salvador and Brazil might be in blend
The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of this week, whereas next weeks could be entirely different.
its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first They also have single origin coffee! So, if you devour coffee,
love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating then you need to put the time aside to try a few cups.QC‑2,
areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to Petrinjska 4. Open 07:00 – 23:00, Sat 08:00 – 22:00, Sun
drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. 09:00 – 14:00.
Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of
classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable Kino Europa
rates in the hand-sewn menu cards.QD‑2, Martićeva 17, Zagreb’s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is
tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, divasbar@mail.com. Open 07:00 so much more. Serving as a large café by day (with cakes
- 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. P­N­G­ and sandwiches available) the nights offer twice as much.
B­X­W Two halls play host to events such as quizzes, music per-
formances, and of course documentaries. Kino Europa is
Eli’s not only home to any number of film festivals but also to a
Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small rather kitsch shop where one can procure some very eclec-
coffee shop a visit. Non-smoking, because the owner feels tic items indeed. It should be a weekly ritual to check the
it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli’s has cinema’s website for upcoming features.QB‑2, Varšavska
one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in oft-gruff Za- 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www.
greb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure of getting the kinoeuropa.hr. Open 08:30 - 02:00. P­J­B­W
right sort of coffee to match the time of year. Eli’s are care-
ful about the quality of their product and only supply a few Palainovka
locations elsewhere in the city.QA‑2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) Situated on Ilirski trg, this is ideally placed to act as start-
091 455 56 08, info@eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. ing point, or finishing point, for those eager to explore the
Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. area outside the old walls of Zagreb. Around the corner
P­J­N­G­W you’ll find a path leading onto Dubravkin put, which in

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 33


Coffee & Cakes
turn takes you up a beautiful walk to the woods at the Velvet
back of Ksaverska. If you’re ending here you’ll be happy to This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more styl-
know that you’ll get your croissants or krafne on top of your ish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in love
tea and coffee. Comfy seats, great music policy, and an even with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of your
better selection of beer.QC‑1, Ilirski trg 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their
13 57/(+385-) 098 904 13 02, palainovka@net.hr. Open own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seat-
08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­N­B­X­W ing is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way. Pricey,
but no more so than other such spots in the area.QB‑2,
Pif Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet.hr,
Always nice to sit on a heated terrace, during the morning www.velvet.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
rather than at night, and watch life go by. Pleased to note P­J­A­6­G­B­W
that Pif is still one of the fastest cafes around the area to
have their outdoor seating ready for customers, even dur-
ing the cold weather. Great mint tea available here, which Cakes
is always nice. Staff are prompt and friendly, and inside is Mak Na Konac
well ventilated should you be a non-smoker, and unable to The search for the best chocolate cake in all of Zagreb is,
find space on the terrace. Plenty of local and craft beers, and for now, at an end. Mak na Konac, with almost two decades
open late.QC‑2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59. of experience in the kitchen, provides some interesting
Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun twists on what is the norm in local pastries, or pastries from
11:00 - 01:00. P­J­B anywhere for that matter. Bepsoke orders are possible, and
Mak na Konac can cater to all tastes, and needs: gluten free,
Retro Café Bar diabetic friendly, dairy free, etc.QE‑2, Dukljaninova 1, tel.
The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully (+385-1) 461 66 54, petra@maknakonac.com, www.
with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off’ serves maknakonac.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
in place of a ‘closed’ sign. Witty and gritty, Retro feel per-
meates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this Orijent
intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with re- There are people we know who practically orgasm when
purposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds.QH‑4, they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is
Savska cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59/(+385-) 099 324 home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other
00 01, info@retro-nightcaffe.com, retro-nightcaffe.com. places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe.
04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. P­N­B­X­W QJ‑2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23, orijent@
ymail.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Swanky Monkey Garden Sun. P­N­G­W
You don’t have to go too far to find a terrace or courtyard
cafe in Zagreb, but Swanky’s Monkey Garden is a great ad- The Cookie Factory
dition and one well worth visiting at least once. The walls of Warning: The Cookie Factory may be habit-forming! Already
the main bar are papered with replicas of newspapers and hooked on chocolate chunk cookies, ice cream sandwiches
documentation dating back to the building’s previous life and rocky road brownies? Wanna be? This sweetshop cafe in
as a factory, while outside there’s a raised terrace which sits the heart of the city center will satisfy any craving and pos-
neatly in front a well tended vegetable garden and orchard. sibly create some new ones! Generously portioned classic
QB‑2, Ilica 50, tel. (+385-1) 400 42 48, tina@swanky- American sweets are served in a cheery setting only made
hostel.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. more enticing with beverages like fruit smoothies and coke
floats. The aroma of “just like Grandma used to make” is
U Dvorištu complimentary.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 21, tel. (+385-) 099 494
Best described as one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets this 94 00, info@cookiefactory.hr, www.cookiefactory.hr.
chilled and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get Open 09:00 - 23:00. P­J­A­G­B­W
away from it all, tucked away from all the action on the
street. Direct trade café this place has wifi, a great beer se- Torte i to
lection, and more than a few blends of tea to assist in the Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café
process of relaxation. Perhaps best avoided if you’re not too offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets
fond of the feline persuasion, but certainly a place that’s available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff
all too happy to see, and accommodate, cyclists (an odd- in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room
ity for a city as large as Zagreb).QB‑3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2, style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a
udvoristucafe@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake!
Sun. P­6­N­G­B­X­W QC‑1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-) 099 343 41
11, info@torte-i-to.hr, www.torte-i-to.hr. Open 08:00 -
www.inyourpocket.com 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P­N­G­B­W

34 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Zagreb Nightlife Pulse

Sirup - Photo by Goran Perešin - Goxmag

Insider tips by locals ZIYP: What’s the best way to get to know the city and
meet people?
Adnan: Begin at one of the city’s legendary urban bars; like,
We asked locals - who live or work in Zagreb RockStarr, Alcatraz, PIF or Swanky. People are usually open-
- to give us a few tips on how to enrich your minded and you’re likely to meet lots of cool people in one
night who’ll take you out with them or recommend good
stay in this city and make it that bit more places to go.
interesting.
ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place to listen
to the local music scene (bands, DJ’s, solo artists)?
Adnan: Sax!, Kset, and Tvornica when they have concerts
Adnan Mehmedović - Medo announced in advance. At bars like Mojo, Buzz or Tesla Power
House during the week you can get to know small up-and-
Organizer of the R’n’B Confusion program coming bands that hone their craft on the small stage.
ZIYP: Where’s your favourite place for nightlife during ZIYP: Where’s the best place to eat after a night out?
the week and on the weekends? Adnan: Kremenko Grill on Savska street before the turn-
Adnan: During the week: Pivana, Dežman Bar on Mondays around, for sure! They have really high quality meat grilled
and Tuesdays, Tesla Power House and Basta on Wednesdays, on wood charcoal.
Mojo bar and Melin on Thursdays. On the weekends: Warm
up at Tesla Power House, Peper - after warm up. Johann
Franck or Opera, particularly when there’s RnB Confusion at
those clubs, but they are generally excellent places for going Goran Marinković
out. Katran - when there’s a special program or performance. One of the founders of UES Magazine

ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place in Za- ZIYP: Where’s your favourite place for nightlife dur-
greb to relax? ing the week and on the weekends?
Adnan: Swanky Monkey Garden on Sundays when the Goran: My favourite place to go during the week is for
weather’s nice and when there’s the Blok Blok courtyard sure Funk Club on Tkalčićeva. There, in the middle of the
hip-hop BBQ going on. An afternoon chill-session with good week you can hear very interesting and respected names
music, good people, burgers and beer. There are always cool in the local (underground) electronic scene. Synergy DJs,
DJs spinning, but always to kick-start the Sunday hangout is good music, the people and the ambiance create such an
the legendary Croatian rapper, Bizzo Bodega. An evening of indescribable atmosphere that it’s simply not possible to
live jazz at Melin while drinking a nice glass of wine is also a be unimpressed. That being said, I’d also mention a new
good vibe. place in town, and that’s Toster at Petrinjska street. Besides
being able to hear excellent electronic music supported
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 35
Zagreb NightlifePulse
by the UES Magazine team and serving the respected
members of the local scene, they offer programs with spe-
cific bands as well as classic RnB and Hip-Hop sounds. The
place has a relaxed atmosphere decorated in a retro street
art style. And as the name Toster suggests, inside you can
enjoy some tastily prepared toasted sandwiches at good
prices. My favourite places for a night out on the weekend,
I’d have to single out Sirup, Masters, Boogaloo and Das
Haus. Basically they’re underground venues that cultivate
underground-style electronic music. Most of the very best
Dave Harvey - Sirup Archives ensembles from the local scene organize their own elec-
tronic music events, along with various artists and world-
famous names, at these venues. Each one of these clubs
offers something unique and special that everyone should
experience for themselves in person!

ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place in Za-


greb to relax?
Goran: For me the best places to relax in Zagreb are those
connected to culture or surrounded by nature; such as,
Zrinjevac, Gornji grad, Maksimir, Jarun, Bundek. When
most of your time during the week and even the week-
ends is spent inside bars and clubs listening to good mu-
sic, a strong and indescribable wish to relax in nature, on
a bench or in a field, develops inside you. We should be
lucky that Zagreb has such places.

RNB Confusion Archives ZIYP: What’s the best way to get to know the city and
meet people?
Goran: The best way to get to know the city and meet
people is if you spend time with the people who live life
in this city to the fullest. And by that I mean the various
groups and people who offer the kinds of experiences to
get to know the city; such as, Đir po Zagrebu or via pri-
vate arrangements. In a relaxed and informal way, those
groups will conjure up the best that this wonderful city has
to offer; whether it be interesting places to go out, cultural
places, hidden corners in the centre of the city, or even just
a place on a park bench. If you need help you can call us at
UES Magazine and we’ll be glad to direct you or connect
you to different people.

ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place to


listen to the local music scene (bands, DJ’s, solo art-
KLUB. Archives ists)?
Goran: Part of my answer to this question you can find in
Sirup - Photo by Goran Perešin - Goxmag
the answer to the first question you asked me; the second
part I’ll tell you now. The places that offer chances to listen
to the local music scene (bands, DJs, solo artists), along
with the places I’ve already mentioned, would definitely
be: Vintage Industrial Bar, Tvornica Kulture, Melin Cafe on
Tkalčićeva, Vinyl Bar and Močvara. That’s all I can remem-
ber at the moment, so I apologize if I’ve left out some
other interesting places.

ZIYP: Where’s the best place to eat after a night out?


Goran: Zagreb has a few really good places to eat after a
night out, depending on which part of the city you find
yourself in. The place that I prefer is actually really close

36 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Zagreb Nightlife Pulse

Frajle - Tesla Power House Archives

to where I live, since that’s always where I end up, and it’s ZIYP: Where’s the best place to eat after a night out?
open 24 hours a day. And that is the Dubravica bakery at Vedran: Zagreb is definitely lagging behind other large
the main bus station. The ladies that work there are always European cities when it comes to what they have to offer.
smiling and having fun, there’s lots of food to choose from, I think that a warm burek at one of the better bakeries is
but the freshly baked burek and pizza are my favourite. I’d still the best option.
like to send a quick shout-out to the pizza chef!

Vibor Hulenić
Vedran Meniga One of the founders of the Amnesia program
Owner of the Positive Rhythm and PDV Records
ZIYP: Where’s your favourite place for nightlife dur-
ZIYP: Where’s your favourite place for nightlife dur- ing the week and on the weekends?
ing the week and on the weekends? Vibor: Johann Franck and Peper. Johann is nice because of
Vedran: I’m one of those people who mix work with plea- its modern European styling and superior design. But for
sure; I don’t go looking for a good time, I create my own dancing my favourite place has still got to be Peper.
fun. For me, the program itself holds more weight than
the actual venue, as I regularly visit more and more places ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place in Za-
that do different things such as concerts and parties. I give greb to relax?
particular priority to the places that offer quality programs Vibor: The three that share first place are definitely,
during the week, especially considering that they receive Swanky, Toster and A Most Unusual Garden.
fewer clientele and therefore have a lower return on in-
vestment. ZIYP: What’s the best way to get to know the city and
meet people?
ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place in Za- Vibor: During the summer there’s Wayoudo and Zagreb
greb to relax? Pub Crawls (Đir po Zagrebu). And throughout the year
Vedran: Shortly, “Pločnik”, on the corner of Slovenska and there’s Moovanje and Nezaobilazno, which are free tours
Međimurska streets, near the western train station. that are getting more and more popular among the hos-
tels.
ZIYP: What’s the best way to get to know the city and
meet people? ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place to lis-
Vedran: Don’t stay home. Go out. ten to the local music scene (bands, DJ’s, solo artists)?
Vibor: Along with all the places I’ve mentioned above, I
ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place to would add Klub Klub, Sax! and Funk.
listen to the local music scene (bands, DJ’s, solo art-
ists)? ZIYP: Where’s the best place to eat after a night out?
Vedran: In the places that offer that kind of thing in their Vibor: By far the best place is the cult classic, Pingvin on
programs; especially at the clubs that offer the chance to Teslina street.
present new and fresh talent. And which promote more
programs and higher production standards; basically
where original local music is performed.
www.inyourpocket.com
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 37
Nightlife

RNB Confusion Archives RNB Confusion Archives

RNB Confusion Archives Amnesia Archives

clubbing zagreb - life &


soul Dinko, aka DJ Chill is a great lover of hip hop and the urban
scene and he conveys to the public the best of the music
High on demand, here you can find the latest information scene through various guests and music programs.
about nightlife in the Croatian capital which is becoming
the ‘must visit’ category in terms of rankings. From jazz, Through discussion and personal experience, we would like
funk and alternative music, through to new and old R&B, to single out places such as Super Super, Museum and
hip hop to edgier electro beats, we present to you an entire the Shock Show Industry; all of which are located within
range of what that is ‘smoking hot’ in the Zagreb’s nightlife the same building, namely the former Katran Factory (J-3),
scene. with each maintaining a different program so that all guests,
It has to be said that the city is full of small sized nightclubs patrons and punters can find something they like from the
and bars made for clubbing and warm-up parties, so there urban scene. In terms of the city centre, several new and
is no excuse to stay in as its time to face the music; ladies trendy hit places have opened up such as Opera, Johann
get the heels on, gents get the gel and head into town for Franck (C-2) and the Peper (C-2) nightclubs. Naturally, the
a party all-round. heart of the city is full of brewing bars that are open until
02:00 with a variety of programs and a wide range on offer,
From the urban and mainstream scene we have Adnan check out Tesla Power House (B-2), Vinyl and Supercaffe
Mehmedović - Medo (R’n’B Confusion), Vibor Hulenić (C-2).
(Amnesia) and Dinko Šimunović aka DJ Chill from the
(Super Super Club). By far the most wanted and best regarded music at the mo-
ment is in the electronic and underground music scene. The
Although all three are R&B and hip hop orientated, they hype is huge, there’s a real buzz in the air and the intensity is
each have their own groove and have their own style with there. From light and sexy, fast and commercial, to the most
Medo being an organiser of the R’n’B Confusion program powerful bass sound. The new generation of the electronic
which has been on the list of all major nightclubs for 14 scene is led by a team consisting of Goran Marinković and
years now, he occasionally makes appearances in neigh- Bruno Vojvodić (UES Magazine), Mark Ješovnik aka
bouring countries also. Yesh (Jabba Ton, Chew the Fat) and the man himself Ve-
dran Meniga (Pozitivan Ritam, PDV Records).
Vibor and his team (The Great Five) joined the scene in
2013 with their Amnesia program which puts emphasis The guys from UES Magazine work hard to inform and edu-
on thematic R&B and hip hop parties; these are also held cate the public about news from the world of electronic mu-
in a different club each time with the aim of creating new sic as well as all the interesting things in the field of technol-
stories and new vibes each time, as they say ‘variety is the ogy and urban culture. Recently they started a new project
spice of life’. called UES Booth at the Toaster Bar (C-2) which enables
38 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
some old and new acts to present their material to a wider Without doubt, the alternative scene is far more approach-
audience and gets them to mutually exchange experiences able and accessible at clubs and bars with live music and DJs.
and ideas, ultimately helping build a pleasant companion- For rock, metal, funk and stronger rhythmic tunes, there is
ship. a fine range with Močvara, Vintage Industrial Bar (I-4),
Marko aka Yesh is a DJ with over 10 years’ experience on Tvornica Kulture (E-3) and Jabuka (I-2). When it comes to
the local front and has played at various festivals (Hideout, jazz and live sets, definitely look for Jiggy Bar (A-4), Booze
Outlook, and Terraneo…) and gigs across Croatia and this & Blues (C-1), Sax! (D-2), KSET(B-4), SC, MM Centar (B-
region. With time, he had gone into production and started 4), Bacchus (C-3), Melin (C-1), Jazzilicious (J-3) or Jazz
the JabbaTon and Chew the Fat programs which are held cafe Forum in Sesvete, all of which will have you zipping
at different venues each time, plus he is also a host on Yam- and zapping!
mat FM Radio, therefore his involvement and knowledge
of the scene is unquestionable. Vedran, who is known in the For many of us music is a way of life and Zagreb strikes the
scene as MMMeniga, is a member of the punk generation right note whether it is funk, punk, rock, pop, jazz, soul, R&B,
from the end of the 80s and plays music exclusively on vinyl hip hop, house, techno or something completely different.
records, based on dubstep in combination with bass and The city certainly has its bases covered and rest assured that
techno. In addition to playing music, he is the organiser of the you will have a great time listening to the best of the best
Outlook, Dimensions and Seasplash festivals, the owner from the local and international music scene.
of the production company PDV Records, and runs the pro-
ject Pločnik where he raises awareness of the underground
scene. For those who love the sound of electronic beats, Sir- Alternative
up (A-4) is a sure place to go, along with KSET (B-4), Medika AKC Medika
(A-3), Masters (L-2) and Das Haus. For weekly and warm up Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind
options, you can choose the Funk Club (C-1) which has a the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’ squat
program running from Wednesday to Saturday. that was granted official status by a city administration ea-
ger to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community. A regu-
When it comes to the alternative and jazz scenes, we lar menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven
were fortunate enough or should we say honoured in be- club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-
ing able to hang out with two great musical experts in An- inclined youth - so you don’t need either dreadlocks or a
drej Jakuš and Ivan Kapec. Both are members of the band dog on a rope to fit in. Check out their website to see what’s
TrianguliZona, referring to three different but interrelated going on.QA‑3, Pierottijeva 11, tel. (+385-1) 619 72 23,
dimensions - image, sound and time. With their unusual, medikainfo@gmail.com, www.attack.hr. Open Fri, Sat
magical and innovative approach, they form a genre that is 22:00 - 04:00 and on request. J­6­N­B­X­W
hard to resist. In addition to TrianguliZona which has been
in existence for 10 years now, Andrej has played in numer- Kset
ous other bands such as Genaro Flores, Soul Fingers, Con On the cutting edge of all things cool, Kset is gaining a repu-
Fusion, Mayales, Mangroove, Chui, Detour, Bučersi and tation for some especially cool live shows that include flaw-
is an active studio and live musician. He has produced two less jazz and DJ wizardry. The mood lighting is the icing on
excellent compilations of the Croatian electro scene: Danc- the cake. Locals are becoming very passionate about their
ing B(e)ar Lounge 1 & 2, and Klape Remixed (Croatian worship of this place.QB‑4, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97
traditional klapa remixed by Croatian and foreign produc- 58, info@kset.org, www.kset.org. Open 20:00 - 24:00,
ers). The electronics on trumpet is accompanied by a world Fri 21:00 - 01:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. E­G­W
class sound and LIVE ACT performances by DJs or session
musicians; therefore he is a very versatile musician who is Močvara
open to an entire spectrum of musical styles. Guitarist and This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of
composer Kapec has been actively involved in the jazz and Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also some-
electronic music since the 90’s. He has played in a number thing of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going
of Croatian jazz ensembles and founded his own trio with on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre perfor-
whom he recorded two albums, Lancun and Bava. He is mances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist
also the founder of the multimedia group TrianguliZona Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is
with whom he has performed at many festivals at home reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only
and abroad. He leads the space jazz band Capisconne, for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep
and together with DJ Labosh is the author of the project track via the web.QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1)
Loop Chamber Music. But that’s not all, Kapec often joins 615 96 67, mochvara@urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. Open
Borko Rupen in an electro-acoustic improvised duo they for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to
call Sonic Diptych. London label Dubmission included keep track via the web or Facebook page. P­T­6­U­
three of Kapec’s electronic songs in the Next Dubmission L­E­N­G­B­X­W
compilation. Currently, he runs electro-jazz sessions called
Sunrise Sessions as a new platform for the development
of a more creative and improvised music scene in Croatia.
www.inyourpocket.com
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 39
Nightlife
Spunk Jiggy bar
Great tunes spin about the fifties funk fusion atmosphere Jiggy almost feels as if you’re entering some sort of
of this starry-skied club café. The indie-chill and alterna- WWII shelter, but it’s very cosy within and very welcom-
tive laden line up offers an inviting feast of aural delights. ing. The venue is split so as to allow patrons to enjoy a
With a performance selection in constant evolution, music quiet-ish beer, or revel in whatever live music is playing.
fans of all inclinations are invited to discover each evening Funk, alt rock, etc., just a few of the genres on offer,
what “The Space” will become.QI‑3, Hrvatske bratske za‑ and this reviewer has already been back more than a
jednice 4, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28, spunk.zagreb@gmail. few times.QA‑4, Ivana Broza 48, tel. (+385-1) 366 83
com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 60, info@jiggybar.hr, www.jiggybar.hr. Open 08:00 -
04:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. P­T­J­6­E­N­B­X­W 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00
- 24:00. P­T ­J ­A ­6 ­U ­E ­B ­X ­W
Bars Kino Klub Grič
Booze&Blues There’s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema
A very welcome addition to an already busy area, Booze club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their
& Blues is a part of New Orleans right here in Zagreb. Ev- cool-not-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft,
ery spirit you’d likely see on Bourbon Street, open late, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground
and live music Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays. There’s a nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable
Heineken tap made from a functional saxophone which is genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre’s cin-
worth a visit alone.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 84, tel. (+385-1) 483 ema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a
77 65, info@booze-and-blues.com, www.booze-and- must-see.QC‑2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03
blues.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. 06, info@artkinogric.hr, www.artkinogric.hr. Open
P­T­J­A­6­E­B­X­W 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. T­J ­6 ­N ­B­
X­W
Corner bar
Situated in the Ban Centar, urban meets Zen in this tranquil Mojo bar, wine rakija & co.
yet modern atmosphere. An outdoor garden terrace cre- Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, over-
ates an extremely peaceful and relaxing setting amongst looking the fountain, on Trg hrvatskih velikana, or enter
the contemporary and chic decor, a top escape from the the underground bar and move into a smoky urban
hustle and bustle of the city. Not just a great spot to sip style ambiance. Brick walls, adorned with black-and-
your morning coffee in peace, but also for a fun night out white pictures, create a mellow and calming atmo-
on the town with friends. They offer a large selection of sphere. A very large selection of wines and rakijas are
wines, champagne by the glass, cognac, coffee and tea, offered, which can be enjoyed at the live music nights,
along with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smoothies, natu- featuring klapas on Mondays, rock cover bands on
ral juices, cigars and whiskey. There’s something to suit Tuesdays, jazz bands on Wednesdays and DJs on the
everyone’s taste! Breakfast is served from 08:00 - 12:00 weekends.QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091
where one can enjoy 100% Arabica Lavazza Kafa Forest 526 67 33, marin.levaj@gmail.com. Open 07:00 -
Coffee selected from natural plantations in Ethiopia. In ad- 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­T ­A ­6 ­E ­B ­X ­W
dition, they host various musical evenings with multime-
dia equipment and projectors available for presentations. Sedmica
QC‑2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (Next to Trg bana Josipa This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hang-
Jelačića), tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93, b.luksa@corner-bar.hr. out for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the
Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain
11:00. P­T­J­A­6­U­E­G­B­X­W to stir a literary bone in your body, too.QA‑2, Kačićeva
7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89, info@caffebar-sedmica.
UES Mag Archives com, www.caffebar-sedmica.com/. Open Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun
17:00 - 01:00. P­T ­J ­A ­6 ­B ­X ­W

Tesla Power House


Decked in modernity (at first glance), this central loca-
tion features a set of open decks for regular DJ sets as
well as copious Tesla related decorations. Live music,
funk rock… Everything goes at this Zagreb dive bar.
Ideally located for those waiting for events in nearby
Kino Europa or on Trg.QB‑2, Varšavska 4, tel. (+385-
) 091 330 49 88, rnbconfusion@gmail.com. Open
08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­T ­J ­6 ­E­
B­X ­W

40 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife

Vintage Industrial Bar Themed nights are a frequent affair, with the venue re-
This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than cently hosting the Batman vs Superman premiere party.
just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, tel. (+385-) 091 783 81
friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance 53, johann.franck@johannfranck.hr, www.johannfranck.
performances, theater acts, film screenings or even liter- hr. Open Mon - Thu, Sun 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00.
ary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with JXB­W
graffiti and black and white photography, create the
perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you Klub.
don’t need to worry about parking because the front en- Created as part of the Subcultural Center in Zagreb, Klub.
trance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160, is a small and simple arched brick-walled space located
tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, info@ underground. It is accessible through the Joe Strummer
vintageindustrial-bar.com, www.vintageindustrial-bar. Square located in the courtyard of the complex shared by
com. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -05:00, Sun 10:00 the Beertija Club. Come check out a wide variety of bands
- 01:00. Closed Mon. P­T­6­E­B­X­W to suit any musical taste, from rock ‘n’ roll and indie to elec-
tronic and punk.QD‑3, Pavla Hatza 14-16, zvone.pusic@
gmail.com, www.subkulturnicentar.com.hr. Open Wed,
Clubs Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. N­X­W
Johann Franck
If a country’s largest coffee company opens a venue, it Peper
must be reasonable to assume that you’re going to be A familiar name in Zagreb’s nightlife, but now in a new loca-
happy with what’s on offer. There’s a reason why chains tion. Peper Ilica 5, formerly Pepermint, still continues to pro-
like Starbucks don’t see Croatia as a viable market, even vide you with great music and great drink deals. Funk, disco,
though seemingly all anyone does here is drink coffee and pop, rockabilly, and soul. And soul is what this venue has in
watch the world go by. More terrace space than you can abundance. Open all week round, it’s always worth calling
shake a stick at, and a great location at the corner of Za- in to see what’s on that night. Entry is free up until 22:00
greb’s main square. An expansive food menu, with daily Wednesday and Thursday, and until 23:00 at the weekend.
specials posted on site and on social media. Once the sun We’ll see you there!QC‑2, Ilica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 393 99 38,
has set, however, this venue stops being a convenient pepermint@pepermint-zagreb.com, www.pepermint-
place for tea, and becomes a vibrant clubbing spot. zagreb.com. Open Wed, Thu 22:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00
- 06:00. P­J­A­G­X­W

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 41


Nightlife
Sirup
Sirup moved to the Zagrebački Paromlin, a historic industrial
building from the beginning of the 20th century, and is now
situated behind the main train station. At night, the building
gives off an abandoned and eerie feel and is perfect for thrill
seekers and fans of a Jack the Ripper 19th century London
atmosphere. The music is so intense that you’ll feel the notes
vibrating through your chest. Open only on Thursday, Friday and
Saturday nights!QJ‑3, Koturaška cesta 1, sirupfun@gmail.com,
www.sirupclub.com. Open Fri, Sat 00:00 - 08:00.

Jazz
Bacchus Jazz Bar
Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto,
but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard
on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree.
The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under
Tesla Power House Archives the bar.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28
04, ejudnamo@yahoo.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
T­J­6­N­B­X­W

Melin
Tucked away just off of one of Zagreb’s most famous streets,
Tkalčićeva, Melin functions as a café by day and club by night
offering live jazz performances on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Decorated in a retro-chic style with old fashioned TV sets used as
makeshift tables, the cozy outdoor patio is surrounded by trees
and greenery and adorned with old-time radios. Take a seat at
one of the mismatched, but stylish colourful chairs and tables
and enjoy a drink in this artsy atmosphere.QC‑1, Kožarska 19,
tel. (+385-1) 488 02 98, melin.bar@gmail.com, www.melin.
hr. Open 10:00 - 02:00. T­J­A­6­E­B­X­W
Chui - Antun Tony Zupanac
Sax! Pubs
This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays Bikers Beer Factory
here every night and is an especially delicious and wide Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina
array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle
featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks
their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust
depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss.QD‑3, pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds
Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, klub@sax-zg.hr, like a ZZ Top clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63,
www.sax-zg.hr. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, bikers.beer.factory@gmail.com, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr.
Sun. N­G­W Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
P­T­6­E­N­B­X­W
Shock Show Industry - D Katran - Trim
kabinet 5reković Sheridan’s Pub
Located in an alleyway in Zagreb’s business district, this Croatia doesn’t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but
grungy bar offers a variety of special events, including here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for
live concerts, film and dance nights. Shock Show Indus- yourself. This is Croatia’s only true Irish pub, run as it is by a
try, formerly Tvornica Katran, is still nicknamed, ‘Katran,’ by man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of
locals. It’s not just a regular club, but part of a cultural as- an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly
sociation from Bjelovar, which was founded in 1972, with a featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic ses-
branch located in Zagreb. To attend an event, don’t forget sions. They’re also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running
to make a reservation ahead of time.QJ‑3, Radnička cesta a loyalty scheme, and if you’re fond of your pint of plain then
27 (door No 17, 2nd floor left), tel. (+385-) 095 418 83 85, that’s a good thing.QI‑3, Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53,
industry1972@gmail.com, www.ssi.com.hr. Open Fri, Sat adriansheridan@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 -
23:00 - 06:00. J­6­E­N­X­W 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. P­T­6­N­B­X­W
42 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing

Zagreb 4U, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan (TZGZ Archives)

most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas


Essential Zagreb top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is
Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open
Jelačića) art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period
This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house
the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the mu-
feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named nicipality bought the complete estate and constructed
after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known ar-
Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy chitect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery,
and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s im- applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions
age has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and add-
it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere ing a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting
because leaders found it overly representative of national- There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes
ism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from
current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly na- the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out
tionalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Mirogoj bb.

Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimir- St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka)
ski park i Zoološki vrt) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully
A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four- depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-
legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for
grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters
clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car en- it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole
gines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside,
great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s
was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.
kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.
is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana
Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata)
entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street. This archway was one of the four original entries into the
QK‑1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.zgzoo.com. Zoo walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible
is open 09:00 - 19:00 (until April 24th), 09:00 - 20:00 fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a
(April - September), ticket office 09:00 - 18:00 (until vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash
April 24th), 09:00 - 18:30 (April - September). Admission that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760
15 - 20kn. and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies
praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and can-
Mirogoj Cemetery dles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.
Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the hom- QC‑1, Kamenita bb.
age they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Za-
greb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated
instagram.com/
on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the croatiainyourpocket
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 43
Sightseeing
the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges
zagreb’s grič cannon by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically
firer destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where
the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious
If you find yourself in the Upper Town a little before damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes
noon, do not be surprised when you see people with place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised
fingers in their ears as they begin the countdown; ten, skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to bat-
nine, eight, seven, six... Then BOOM! Smoke rises, pi- tle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00,
geons flock for shelter, people clap and you’re won- 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.QC‑1,
dering if this is madness or reality. Fear not, it’s real Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 -17:00,
and has been every single day for 139 years. It is the Sun 13:00 - 17:00.
Grič Cannon, first fired in 1877 and was used as a sign
for the bell-ringers of the city’s churches to head off Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street)
and do their job. Alem Tutundžić has had this duty for You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting
eight years and is the fifth person to carry out the job humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages
since it first began; his predecessor did it for thirty-five you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out
years. The traditional gun powder method is still used the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the
and he often wears a light blue uniform as worn by the sheer number of people wandering around here late
first ever Zagreb cannon-firer. into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that
you’re starting to understand is very unique too!QC‑1,
Tkalčićeva.

Museums
Archaeological Museum in Zagreb
(Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu)
Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly
enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical
musings often accompany explanations of the materials,
moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this
earth.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1)
487 30 00, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 -
Alem Tutundžić - Photo by Višnja Arambašić 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10 - 20kn.

Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za um-


jetnost i obrt)
This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered
aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amaz-
ing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very
ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages
are available. People with special needs also have guides.
These services do not cost extra.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita
10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr.
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Ad‑
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
mission 20 - 30kn. U

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej su-


Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina vremene umjetnosti)
Uznesenja) Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impres-
A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp sive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection
looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an
the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and pho-
of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will tography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as
push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve well as free Wi-Fi connection.QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik
been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t for- 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr.
get to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tick‑
1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In ets 15 - 30kn. U

44 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing

Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović


muzej) Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji
High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a Ivan Meštrović)
unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and
Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this
pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And
in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB‑3, Trg Mažuranića it is here where he complited many of his art works and
14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chi-
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. cago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@
Admission 10 - 15kn. U mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

botaNICAL GARDEN Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija)


The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all
01.04 FRIDAY - 01.11 TUESDAY of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of
PROMENADE CONCERTS Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it
The city’s natural oasis reopens in spring after the hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works
long winter hibernation period where it remains of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors,
closed to the public, and it opens in style. Amidst as well others who work in new media. From the staircase
the 10,000 different species of plants, the ponds, and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors,
artifical hills and bridges, concerts on Thursdays visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabi-
at 17:30 will be a major attraction with artists of all tation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than
kinds booked to perform in what will be a true get- two centuries of Croatian modern art await.QC‑3, Andrije
away from the hussle and bussle of the city. Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40/(+385-1) 604 10 55,
QB‑3, Trg Marka Marulića 9a, tel. (+385-1) 489 info@moderna-galerija.hr, www.moderna-galerija.hr.
80 60, www.hirc.botanic.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
Mon, Tue 09:00 - 14:30. Admission free. Admission 30 - 40kn. U

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 45


Sightseeing
tian/English. Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QB‑2,
Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09, info@muzejiluzija.hr, www.
muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn.
Family ticket 100kn (includes two adults plus small chil‑
dren).

Technical Museum Nikola Tesla


(Tehnički muzej nikola tesla)
All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-
powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites,
space stations and a planetarium where you can view
a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign
language guide can be organized.QA‑4, Savska cesta
18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-muzej@tehnicki-
Photo by Višnja Arambašić muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn.
Planetarium admission 15kn.

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art


(Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti)
Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive
art is a highly colourful and often political style of paint-
ing. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the
imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a
foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of
200 - 300kn for every 30 minutes.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda
3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu.
org. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara)


The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load
of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at
all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much
more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of
it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20
people minimum, then a guide is available in English.
QB‑3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81
00, mimara@mimara.hr, www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 -
Trachycarpus Fortunei - Botanical Gardens Archives 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 30 - 40kn. U
Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej
prekinutih veza)
Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Za-
Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way or
greba)
another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and has
With theme music and sprawling city models, this mu-
toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of items
seum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps
and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny yet
elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia
serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the
as an independent country in the 20th century especially.
most innovative European Museum.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda
Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice op-
2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, info@brokenships.com, www.
tion for an educational experience with the kids. There is
brokenships.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 25kn.
also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A
truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages
Museum of Illusions
are available in addition to special guides for the blind.
Test your perception at this amazingly new and unique Mu-
QC‑1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz.
seum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as
hr, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00,
they should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure
Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U
of visual and sensual stimuli is broken into two floors; holo-
gram pictures dominate the first floor and hands on displays
are on the second floor. It’s open for all ages and in both Croa- www.inyourpocket.com
46 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
Galleries
Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon)
A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on
Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all
kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries
of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top.
Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be orga-
nized, these service does not cost extra.QC‑3, Trg kralja
Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnicki-
paviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Open 11:00 -
19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.

Lauba – The House for People and Art


(Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba)
Known as the house for people and art, it has a collection
of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes
some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhi-
bitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and
interaction!QH‑3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1)
630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Open 14:00
- 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 -
25kn. U

Landmarks
The Lotrščak Tower and Grič cannon
(Kula Lotrščak i Grički top)
If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it
simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an
elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one leg-
end, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over
the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right
on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha
for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city
of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion.
Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been
fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in
the Upper Town, the tower originally was part of the city’s
defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses
a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well
worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9.
Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.

Tomislav Gotovac Footprints


Ever wanted to walk in the footsteps of someone famous?
Well, with Tomislav Gotovac, Croatian actor, director, and
performance artist, you can. On Zagreb’s main street, not
a few minutes walk from the main square, you will come
across imprints of his feet, placed there in celebration of
his piece, “Zagreb, I Love You”, when in 1981 he ran naked
down Ilica, kissing the road as he went. It’s unlikely that
the locals would look too favourably on a repeat of this
famed event by a tourist, but you’ll never know unless you
try!QC‑2, Ilica 8.

instagram.com/
croatiainyourpocket
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 47
Sightseeing
tram no 13 the remains of socialist architecture. The intersection
with Držićeva has blocks of residential buildings in-
Turing back the clock to 1910, a vivid transformation spired by the ‘father of modern architecture’ Charles -
occurred that would leave a major imprint on the city Edouard Jeanneret - Le Corbusier; a typical example is
of Zagreb. Low and behold, electric trams finally re- the residential block Vukovarska 35 - 35a, not to men-
placed the classical and most worthy horse trams that tion state institutions such as the Palace of Justice or
diligently served city folk for many years. A century lat- the Public Open University. The Lisinski Concert Hall,
er, today’s tram network consists of 116 km of railway which is also one of the largest concert halls in Croatia,
coordinated in fifteen day and four night tram lines. was built in 1973 in honour of the great Croatian com-
Amongst these, one tram number is very specific poser Vatroslav Lisinski who wrote the first Croatian
and that is tram number 13. It was put into opera- opera, ‘Love and Malice’. Opposite the hall, there is the
tion way back in 1911 and its route consisted of Ban extensive and lush university meadow with fountains
Jelačić Square - Kaptol - Nova Ves - Gupčeva zvijezda which use holograms to mark major events and holi-
- Mirogoj. After a tragic accident on October 31, 1954, days, and in warmer days also serve to refresh.
both the tram line and tram 13 were discontinued. Turning towards Savska Street, one moves to a busier
After forty-two years, the tram with the number 13 and livelier cultural part of the city with the Dražen
returned to function and rides between Žitnjak to Petrović Museum, Technical Museum, Mimara Muse-
Kvaternik Square today. um, Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Croatian National
So what exactly can be seen on tram 13? Firstly, the Theatre, Academy of Music, and the Gavella Theatre.
line encompasses 27 stations from beginning till end And then you finally arrive to the well-known Ilica
and the route passes by some of Zagreb’s major sights, Street which is also one of the longest streets in town
cultural institutions and locations that you should cer- (the 4th largest to be exact). In just a few minutes, from
tainly visit. If you board tram 13 the entire ride takes perusing the river to watching people stroll along Ilica
approximately an hour from start to finish, depending Street amongst more shops, ice cream parlours and
on traffic of course. cafes, you reach the inaugural main square. Look to the
Here at IYP, we can’t help but recommend you start left, and what time is it? Glance at Ban Jelačić Square,
your journey from the central station at Ban Jelačić give the Duke on the horse a salute then move along
Square and head towards the direction that interests towards the Lenuci horseshoe and beautiful Zrinje-
you most. Decisions… decisions… If you happen to vac Park which boasts a gorgeous Bollé fountain. On
start from Žitnjak, you’ll pass through one of the older the right side of the Archaeological Museum and the
suburbs of Peščenica, where you will find the Church Museum of Modern Art sits one of the first hotels in
of Blessed Augustine Kažotić which is famous for its Zagreb, the Palace Hotel, which overlooks the beauti-
contemporary architectural design. Vukovarska Street ful park and Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters. Then
is the lengthiest part of the route where you can see to the King Tomislav Square aka ‘Tomislavac’ and its
nearby Art Pavilion, from there you get a view of the
main railway station next to which is the historical
and classical Hotel Esplanade, built in 1925 and for
the most famous ‘Orient Express’ which ran from Paris
to Istanbul and passed through Zagreb. Branimirova
Street is next on the agenda and the ‘Branimir Cen-
tre’ is located at the intersection with Draškovićeva
Street, this is where the first production of biscuits and
chocolate called ‘UNION’, later known as ‘Kraš’ used to
operate. Did someone just say chocolate? Hmmm…
Scrumptious! A mere two stations further, we arrive at
the Croatian Association of Artists (Meštrović Pavilion)
i.e. Džamija (the former mosque). And two stations
thereafter is the final destination, Kvatrić. Walk through
the market place, sip on coffee, nibble on cake and en-
joy the city life.
Fun Fact: ZET vehicles run the entire length of the
equator three fold and on a daily basis. In terms of a
yearly scale... they travel the equivalent of 109 trips to
the moon and back!

Tram no. 13 - ZET Archives


www.inyourpocket.com

48 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing Sightseeing

Zagreb Welcomes You - Model City


Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, “Zagreb east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja
Welcomes You” is a scale model of much of the Croatian Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with
capital, and is situated on Bakačeva which is the street the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious
leading from the main square, up to Kaptol. The entire Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of
piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of
structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and all types.QB/C‑3/4.
west facing sides of the model feature short texts refer-
encing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English, top 5 secret things to
and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb
and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see
see in zagreb
a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croa- A portrait of the daughter of Samuel
tia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor Berger
Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg Located at the Modern Gallery, this painting was cre-
ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the ated by Vlaho Bukovac, one of the most renowned
locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača. Croatian painters.

Girl with a Bird


Curiosities Located at the Zagreb City Museum, this gouache
Funicular painting was created by Marc Chagall, one of the most
Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any successful artists of the 20th century, who used a com-
tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off bination of art forms, such as cubism, symbolism, and
Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the fauvism when painting his portraits.
Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji grad,
that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 Liber linteus Zagrebiensis
seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the A linen cloth wrapped around a mummy, purchased
tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva by Mihajlo Barić, in 1848, was found to contain a
bb, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30 - 22:00. manuscript written, within the fabric, in Etruscan text.
Located at the Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, this
The Green Horseshoe (Zelena potkova) is the only preserved copy of such a manuscript.
A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci
came along at the end of 19th Century and was instru- Stjepan Erdödy Jump
mental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Located at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, this pho-
Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of tograph, taken in 1895 by Karlo Drašković, represents
the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green one of the first photographs taken in Croatia.
U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the
green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west The Holy Trinity
leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg maršala Tita This is the most valuable painting at Strossmayer Gal-
with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian lery. It was created by an anonymous Dutch painter,
National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with who is known as the master of paintings, Virgo inter
beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. Virgines.
The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the
wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to twitter.com/
nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous
park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The inyourpocket
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 49
Sightseeing

Pavillion, Botanical Garden Archives

Zagreb Mummy B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-
Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the European, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many
Archaeological Museum. The mummified body from celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than
Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49, her personal talents. After her owner died it was discov-
which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the ered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are
mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest
Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to
Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy
is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away
and only revealed to experts.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića
the altar of st. rocco Zrinskog 19.

Sometimes we innocently fail to see the beauty of Zagreb’s Solar System


something until we learn about the efforts gone The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here
into its creation. The altar of St. Rocco which is now in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big
placed in the Chapel of St. Rocco and located in the metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course,
park overlooking the British Square, has survived its the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004
own Calvary. It was originally built in 1755 by city Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system
guilds and placed in St. Mark’s Church; it carried around this mighty Sun, including planets at the follow-
the name the altar of the Holy Trinity, St. John the ing urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg
Baptist and Evangelist. The quality of altars back bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva
then were categorised by colour and their exagger- 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9,
ated baroque decorations. At the time, Bishop Josip Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis
Juraj Strossmayer thought that many altars, though never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding
beautiful, were not spiritually inspiring and ordered a them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was
complete revamp; hence the altar was subsequently “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the
given a new home, new look and new name. The dimensions of the solar system and to discover random
end of the 19th century saw the altar themed with corners of the city.
a statue of St. Rocco and a dog carrying a piece of
bread in its mouth. Two centuries later, a fire in the Join the conversation with IYP
1970s destroyed the right side of the altar and after
extensive restoration; it was possible to once again
see the altar in its original design.

50 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing
So, as you walk the quaint streets of Zagreb’s Upper
Horrible Histories Town, if you catch the eye of a pretty and successful
Crna kraljica (The Black Queen) woman remember the tale of Barica!
There are several legends that pass between the genera-
tions in Croatia about the Black Queen, but no-one quite Kameni svatovi (Stone Wedding)
knows what the truth is about this mysterious figure. We Kameni svatovi is the name of a picturesque collection
know that Barbara of Celj was born in 1392 to nobleman of rock pillars on the western slopes of Mount Medved-
Hermann II of Celj. At a young age she was betrothed to nica, at about 400m above the level of the road over the
the much older King Sigismund of Luxembourg. It seems village of Jablanovec. The name means “Stone Wedding”,
she was an intelligent and hypnotically beautiful woman and in a moment you’ll find out exactly why. This is a
who found herself ruling Croatia in her husband’s ab- popular destination for hikers, both due to the attractive-
sence. And here’s where the stories diverge. Was she a ness of the rocks themselves and to the fabulous views
merciless ruler, governing with a rod of iron and little over the Zagorje region, the Samoborsko gorje uplands,
pity in her heart? Or was she deeply misunderstood, un- the Žumberak hills, and, on clear days, all the way to the
popular simply for being a politically astute woman? On Kamnik Alps and Mount Triglav (2864m) in Slovenia.
the one hand she is said to have refused water from her According to legend, the pillars represent the wedding
plenteous well to her fellow citizens during a drought. of a young miller and his love, a poor girl named Janja,
On the other she is said to have summoned unearthly turned to stone. The miller’s family was wealthy and
forces to create the Plitvice Lakes and bring water to her his mother was set on a rich wife for her son, a suitable
people. Where does the truth lie? The debate goes on. match for such a family. But as often happens when the
heart prevails, he had fallen in love with Janja, the daugh-
Grička vještica (The Witch from Grič) ter of a penniless blind man.
Marija Jurić Zagorka (1873-1957) is one of the best-loved The miller’s mother was beside herself, but her husband
Croatian authors as well as one of the first Croatian fe- stood by his son as he himself had started out without
male journalists. Her tales of old Zagreb are based on a penny to his name. He ordered his wife to cease her
historical fact embellished into rich and intriguing tales. protests. On the day of the wedding the mother was not
Her most popular work is a cycle of seven novels named among the wedding guests since she was at home cook-
“The Witch from Grič”. ing and preparing for their arrival. However, in a moment
Sadly, none of Zagorka’s novels have been translated into of rage she swore that lightning would strike and turn
English, but luckily for you, dear readers, we’re here to tell the wedding party to stone before she let Janja into her
you the tale of Zagreb’s most famous witch. home. And that is exactly what happened. The wedding
The character was based on a real woman baker in Za- turned to stone still stands today.
greb, the widow Barica Cindek. She was so appealing as This attractive place is the perfect end to a fine but not
a woman and so successful as a merchant that she at- over-demanding walk. If you are already on mount Med-
tracted the envy of her neighbours and the venom of the vednica, you can approach from Ponikve, a field on the
men who failed to conquer her. southwest slopes of the mountain above the beginning
The hordes of men were always milling around her of the D1 main road from Zagreb to Zabok. Or, you can
stall on St Mark’s Square. This put poor Barica in court, come from the eastern suburbs of Gornji Stenjevec or
accused of keeping a devil in her pocket to entice the Podsused, or from Jablanovec village itself.
helpless males. In those days it didn’t take much to be ac-
cused of witchcraft, and it was the jealousy of a spurned Krvavi most (Bloody Bridge)
notary public that almost put a tragic end to Barica’s tale. In the old days, Zagreb was made up of two settlements,
He and other rejected suitors blackmailed other “witch- Gradec and Kaptol, set on neighbouring hills with the
es” to point the finger at Barica in return for their free- Medveščak stream dividing them. The inhabitants of the
dom. So Barica found herself imprisoned. However, at two towns would often get into quarrels and fights, and
that time educated folk were starting to protest against one of the places where such altercations would take
witch-hunts, and Barica was spared being burnt at the place (often ending up in bloody noses) was the bridge
stake (this time with the help of the notary who had over the Medveščak. Thus the bridge earned its name:
been paid off by Barica’s lawyer). Krvavi most (“Bloody Bridge”). The stream was diverted
Zagorka researched real court archives for her story: underground and its course paved over when a sewer-
there were great numbers of women - and men - who age system was built, and the bridge, thus useless, was
were proclaimed in league with the devil by a hysterical knocked down. But the small and quiet street connect-
and envious society. Although Zagorka herself was born ing Radićeva ulica and Tkalčićeva still bears its scary-
more than a century after the last “witch” was burned sounding name.
at the stake, as the first woman journalist in Croatia she
likely felt the same condemnation from society, which is
probably why she spoke strongly against discrimination. instagram.com/
A true role model, Zagorka is still delighting and inspiring croatiainyourpocket
readers today.
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 51
Shopping
Galerija Kerubin
Shopping Malls Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds
A woman’s fetish isn’t far away as the heart of Zagreb of other stuff.QC‑1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98,
and its outskirts is full of shopping centres. Each centre galerija-kerubin@net.amis.hr, www.galerijakerubin.
can be reached by tram or bus with the Kaptol Centre com.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
and Centar Cvjetni walking distance from the main Sun. A
square. The bigger centres require public transport
and include Avenue Mall in Novi Zagreb, Arena Centre
in Lanište, City Centre One West in Jankomir, Point A good old vinyl
Shopping Centre in Vrbani, City Centre One East in Dancing Bear
Žitnjak, and Garden Mall in Dubrava. What else can we CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream.
say but, ‘shop till you drop’! QB‑2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja.
zagreb@dancingbear.hr, www.dancingbear.hr. Open 09:00
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A
Antiques
Apartman Dirty Old Shop
Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, t-shirts
unique stuff.QA‑2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. with cool prints, posters, original figures of characters from
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to cool!QI‑3, Tra‑
14:00. Closed Sun. A tinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, info@dirtyoldempire.
com, www.dirtyoldempire.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
5 museum shop finds
Archaeological Museum Shop
Croatian design
Take home a piece of history with you today from the Croatian Design Superstore
museum souvenir shop. Items include: ushepti figu- Totally new concept store bringing the finest in Croatian
rines, tripartite jugs, the head of a Pharaoh and many, design to the forefront! This pop-up shop includes fash-
many more.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. ion, gastronomy, kitchen & tableware, decor, jewellery,
(+385-1) 487 31 01, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Open lighting and furniture. It’s a fab place to find unique gifts
10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. and original souvenirs that are designed and produced
Closed Mon. A in Croatia. Also, the cafe, which is located within the
store, offers great cups of coffee and refreshing smooth-
Art Shop Klovićevi Dvori ies, cocktails, craft beers and wines, plus loads of home-
Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of made snacks on a daily basis from 09:00 till 21:00.QD‑2,
an artist.QC‑1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Martićeva 4, croatiandesignsuperstore@gmail.com, www.
Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A croatiandesignsuperstore.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed
Sun.
HNK Art Shop
Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T- Love_Ana
shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and A recently established fixture in the field of interior design,
Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fan- this is certainly worth a curious visit for the casual passer-
cy items with motifs from different theatre shows.QB‑3, by, and a must-visit by anyone considering opening some
Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@ avante garde gallery or restaurant. In addition to Ana’s own
hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Usually operates from 10:00 - expertise, the shop stocks and hosts sculptures and arti-
13:00 and every evening when there are shows on. A sanal jewellery.QB‑2, Dežmanova 4, tel. (+385-1) 580 16
76, www.anatevsic.com. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 -
Msu Shop 14:00. Closed Sun.
A great choice of books and works by Croatian and in-
ternational designers.QJ‑5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. Take Me Home - Croatian Design Shop
(+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Open The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian souvenirs
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. and gifts created by over 60 designers. Tote bags and purses
with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs,
Muo Shop unique jewellery, trendy daily planners and notebooks,
Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of plus all sorts of other creative knick-knacks and handmade
Arts and Crafts.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385- mementos are all offered to remember your trip by.QB‑2,
1) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@takemehome.
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A hr, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. A
52 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
affordable art
Bowls and Plates by Lidia Boševski
If you would like to include a unique bowl or plate
in your home collection, then visit the Atelier Lidia
Boševski at Vlaška 81a. After completing a degree in
Applied Arts, Boševski worked in textile and cloth-
ing design, as well as product design followed by
ceramics in 2003. The acknowledgment of her work
has helped her gain a reputation as one of the astute
Lidia Boševski - ladica.org Archives Croatian artists in the field of ceramics.

Jewellery by Diana Sokolić


Jewellery created by academic artist Diana Sokolić
received the silver award for fashion design (FRED
cufflinks - bracelets) at the International Design
Competition in Italy, 2013. Thereafter, it was present-
ed by British Vogue, Tattler, InStyle, Marie Claire and
Harper’s Bazaar. This year, and at the same contest,
she received the bronze award for her fashion design
(Lacey bracelets) made with lace, and was once again
famed by British Vogue. This jewellery can be pur-
chased at the Contemporary Art Museum (Avenija
Dubrovnik 17), and the Arts and Crafts Museum (Trg
maršala Tita 10) and via www.dianas.it

Monograph of Miroslav Šutej -


Mobile serigraphs - Authors: Slavica
Marković and Zvonko Maković
Šutej is a remarkable personality of Croatian art of
the late 20th century, and the name of a prominent
international graphic artist. Find his monograph at
the Cabinet of Graphics HAZU (Andrije Hebranga 1).

Necklaces by Nenad Roban


Necklaces from the project ‘Hommages’- Form fol-
Saša Šekoranja Gallery Archives
lows the artist - A project conceived as a kind of
‘hommage’ or tribute to certain individuals in the
field of design, architecture and fine art. You can pur-
chase their works at the Croatian Design Superstore
(Martićeva 4).

Replicas of the Galle Lamp and Minia-


ture of Jesus
At the Kerubin Gallery, on Kamenita 15, you can find
replicas of Galle lamp, laminated glass height is 54
cm from around the 1980s, and miniatures of Jesus,
monastic work, from the 1780s era, dimensions are
16x13 cm.

Saša Šekoranja badges


The artist has made a set of artistic badges with mo-
tifs of stylised flowers which are taken from his very
own paintings, then photographed and further cus-
tomised in the shape of a badge. These can be found
in the flower Gallery Saša Šekoranja (Dežmanov pro-
Tihana Mikša Perković: Past... at last, Exhibition of Fashion Design
Photo by Vanja Šolin, Ulupuh Archives laz 1).

54 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Shopping

Clothes Shoes & Accesories


Fashion Boutique Dora A shoo
Just for the ladies, boutique Dora is a traditional family A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one.
business that has been designing and manufacturing Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps
beautiful women’s clothing for over 30 years. Dora is to wrap around your feet. Anita’s shoes are walking sex.
known for their quality production and feminine de- QD‑2, Martićeva 19, ashoo@ashoo.net, www.ashoo.net.
signs. Every pattern is made either bespoke or in a small Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N
series, and always of the finest natural fabrics. Authentic
and tailor made for you!QC‑1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+385- Cahun
1) 485 17 63, modnisalonDORA@gmail.com, www. Look the part with handmade millinery and hats made
dora-rubic.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. from all kinds of material.QC‑2, Pod zidom 8, tel. (+385-1)
Closed Sun. J­A 481 49 75, www.cahun.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Jewelry Cerovečki
Jozef Gjoni Handmade umbrellas.QB‑2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74
They opened in 1971, and since then have been produc- 17, www.kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00,
ing unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery. With Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A
a large collection of handmade gold and silver antique
pieces, as well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned Croata
with precious and semi precious gemstones, they of- Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a
fer something for everyone.QC‑2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and
10, tel. (+385-1) 481 09 02, www.zlatarna-jozef-gjoni. more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts sev-
hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. eral entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that
J­A much more special.QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), www.croata.
hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Medaković
Specializing in handmade modern jewelry, since 1938,
these contemporary and unique pieces were cre- Delicatessen
ated by goldsmith, Renato Medaković.QC‑2, Frane Bonkulović Delicacies
Petrića 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 27 49/(+385-) 098 182 64 Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delica-
70, rmedakovic@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat cies.QI‑2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N 89, info@bonkulovic.com, www.bonkulovic.com. Open
09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
Thesaurus
Nice, rich jewellery made of precious metals and natural Čajoteka
materials mostly inspired by Far East.QB‑2, Dežmanov All kinds of teas to collect and sip. Brits: this is the only pure
prolaz 5, tel. (+385-) 091 536 33 18/(+385-) 091 516 teahouse in town that we know of.QD‑2, Iblerov trg 10 (Im‑
62 22, www.thesaurus-jewellery.com. Open 12:00 - portanne Galleria), tel. (+385-1) 483 37 11, info@cajoteka.
20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A info. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

www.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 55


Shopping
Crop Store
more style for less cash Crop Store is a great place to call into if you’re hunting for
Croatian gifts whether they be the ubiquitous red heart or
Britanski trg antique market a bottle of Istrian wine. Here you will find everything from
Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the an- artisanal chocolate to olive oil, from liqueurs to truffles and
tique market is bursting with flair and excitement. honey. If we were to list everything then we’d still be typ-
Here you will find various decorative things, old books ing. Please, go in, peruse the shelves, thank us later.QC‑1,
and collectables of both local and international origin. Tkalčićeva 28, info@crop.com.hr, www.crop.com.hr. Open
Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real 10:00 - 22:00.
cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.QA‑2, Britanski
trg. Galerija Kulin Galović
Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as
Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat).
You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter It is a meat-lovers oasis!QE‑2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457
brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes,
to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s Pinklec Delicija
sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive
time to relish some of the authentic local food and oils, truffels are offered along with most any other palatte-
meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave pleasing product. Delight the senses with some cultural spe-
by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch lunking and souvenir indulgence.QE‑2, Martićeva 14c, tel.
the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Station, this line is (+385-1) 457 99 11. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. For
more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK‑5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Shatro Galeria
Jakuševac. This lovely shop, stocks Croatian-only products - be they
picked or made by hand - from the islands of Mljet, Rab, Vis,
Ulični Ormar as well as Nin, Buzet, and of course the capital itself. These
The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and products include a wide range of liqueurs, jams from not so
this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage common fruits such as planika (Irish strawberry), and plavac -
and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s a grape variety also present in wine form on the shelves. A full
purely vintage with some outstanding items up for rundown of everything available would take pages…QC‑2,
grabs. Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes Stara Vlaška 7, tel. (+385-1) 562 77 33. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
walking distance from the main square, come and en-
joy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each
piece.QD‑2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 Quirky Stores
00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat Glass Art Atelier Staklić - Gabriel Gal-
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn. J­A­6 lery
Founded in 1984, Glass Art Atelier “Staklić” is led by Academic
Ulični ormar Archives
painter Dominique Jurić. Original Zagreb souvenirs from the
Gabriel’s Gallery production are on sale which represents a se-
ries of city motifs (Šestine umbrellas, Lotrščak Tower...) made
in glass according to the Tiffany technique. Simply announce
yourself earlier by email: staklic@staklic.hr.QE‑1, Voćarska
25, staklic@staklic.hr, www.vitrajidominique.com. Open
09:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Jasmina i lutkice
A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and
stuffed animals.QD‑3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57
73, jasmina.i.lutkice@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

Kloto
Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic, Lolita
and Pinup.QB‑2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487 26 59,
udrugakloto@gmail.com, www.udrugakloto.hr. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

56 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


CITY CENTRE
SHOPPING
4
Take Me Home - Croatian Design ShopQB-2,
2 Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@takeme-
home.hr, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00

gifts
1
5

Fashion Boutique DoraQC-1, Kamenita 2, tel. Ulični OrmarQD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1)
(+385-1) 485 17 63, modnisalonDORA@gmail.com, 492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 -
www.dora-rubic.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00
- 14:00
accessories

VINTAGE
2
3

Galerija KerubinQC-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 StripoviQC-3, Preradovićeva 34, (+385-1) 483 77
16 98, galerija-kerubin@net.amis.hr, www.galerijakerubin. 77, prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr
com.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00 Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00
Antiques

comics

4
5
Shopping
Prostor Manufakturne Slobode (PMS)
An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate
hand-crafts and new age ideas.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 61,
javolimpms@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 -
16:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A

Roba Store
Homing their own collection as well as boasting a well cho-
sen assortment of European fashion brands.QC‑3, Petra
Preradovića 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 46 81, store@roba.com.hr.
Open 10:00 -20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Saša Šekoranja Gallery


Famous flower sculptor has opened a floral gallery in
Dežmanova Street which will host works, exhibitions,
book promotions and more.QB‑2, Dežmanov prolaz 1,
tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. N

Silver Club
Men have it easy. Need a tux? Rent one! Need a shirt? Every
store carries them! Thankfully for the women of Zagreb,
Silver Club is here to meet your needs. Want a bag or
necklace to go with your new dress? Silver Club can hook
you up. Silver Club is a members only accessory boutique
which rents out jewellery, bags, and the like, for two week
periods. It may sound unusual, but the foot traffic speaks
for itself. Silver Club does sell some smaller items, and once
Saša Šekoranja Gallery Archives or twice per year will hold a members only clear-out of
rotating stock. Ladies, take a look, because you won’t be
disappointed.QB‑2, Ilica 47/a, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 94,
www.silverclubrentafashion.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J

Stripovi na kvadrat
An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as
the best known English editions are hot off the press here.
Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and
gifts are also available and their website is updated with
the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1)
483 77 77, prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr. Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Vešmašina
Eclectic. Unique. Quirky. There are probably few enough
words to adequately describe this shop, placed at the top
Crop Store Archives of Opatovina. Caters to hipster kids, those needing clas-
Dora Rubić at Fashion Boutique - Photo by Višnja Arambašić sic business wear, it has hats, coats, shoes, boots, acces-
sories galore! If you’re having difficulty picking up some
unusual presents then you need to pay a visit here.QC‑1,
Opatovina 45, tel. (+385-1) 390 70 00, info@vesmasina.
com, www.vesmasina.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Join the conversation with IYP

58 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Hotels
Since Zagreb is a popular tourist hot spot, it is of no surprise
that there is a wide range of accommodation options from
hotels, boutique hotels, hostels, and private accommodation
of different categories and prices. While on the go, where to
snooze is indeed an important decision. In recent years, an in-
flux of hostels has opened around town which are extremely
clean and tidy, with attention given to the arrangement of
the interior. Private accommodation with apartments and
flats are always in demand while the hotel offer now includes
an emergence of classy boutique hotels. Detailed informa-
tion in reference to all types of accommodation is available
on the web site and at the Tourist Information Centres. All in
all, there’s something for everyone’s pocket!

5 Stars
Esplanade Zagreb Hotel
QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385-
1) 456 60 20, Info@esplanade.hr, www.esplanade.hr.
208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €120 - 229, 48 Deluxe
Palace Hotel Zagreb Archives
Rooms €140 - 229, 13 Deluxe Suite €220 - 309, 1 Presi‑
dential Suite €1900). P­T­J­H­A­R­6­U­I­F­
L­E­G­B­K­D­W hhhhh Double Tree by Hilton Zagreb
QJ‑3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269a, tel. (+385-1) 600 19
Sheraton Zagreb Hotel 00, fax (+385-1) 600 19 16, www.zagreb.doubletree.
QD‑3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385- com. 152  rooms (26  Guest Rooms Twin €109  - 209,
1) 455 30 35, sheraton.zagreb@sheraton.com, www. 90  Guest Rooms King €109  - 209, 2  Disabled Guest
hotel-sheratonzagreb.com. 306  rooms (254  singles Rooms King €109 - 209, 28 Deluxe Rooms King €135 -
€105 - 135, 254 doubles €130 - 160, 28 suites €175 - 270, 235, 6 Corner Suites €209 - 309). P­H­A­R­6­U­
23 Junior Suites €130 - 160, 1 Presidential Suite €1000 - F­L­G­D­C­w­W hhhh
1500). P­i ­J­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­
C­w­W hhhhh Dubrovnik
QC‑2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax
The Westin Zagreb (+385-1) 486 35 07, reservations@hotel-dubrovnik.hr,
QA‑3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. 222 rooms (77 singles €89 -
fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, westin.zagreb@westin.com, 99, 87  King Twin Rooms €115  - 119, 50  Delux Rooms
www.hotelwestinzagreb.com. 349 rooms (308 doubles €129 - 145, 4 Junior Suites €160, 3 Executive Suites €185,
€125  - 170, 19  Westin Guest Office Suites €175  - 220, 1  Presidential Suite €500). P­O­T­J­H­A­6­U­
1  Presidential Suite €1500, 19  Executive Suites €260  - F­L­G­B­K­X­W hhhh
310, 2 Delux Suites €560 - 592). P­Z­O­T­J­H­A­
R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­C­w­W hhhhh Hotel International
QC‑4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 81 00, fax (+385-
4 Stars 1) 610 87 00, hotel@hotel-international.hr, www.hotel-
international.hr. 207 rooms (168 doubles €170, 8 triples
Arcotel Allegra €183, 1 suite €280, 29 Junior Suites €190, 1 Presidential
QD‑4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469 60 00, fax Suite €450). P­Z ­i ­O­T­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­
(+385-1) 469 60 96, allegra@arcotelhotels.com, www. K­D­W hhhh
arcotelhotels.com/en. 151  rooms (38  singles €170,
103 doubles €185, 4 suites €335, 4 Junior Suites €260, Palace
2 Rooms for disabled €170). P­J­H­A­R­6­U­I­ QC‑3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00,
F­L­E­G­B­K­D­S­w­W hhhh fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace.
hr. 123 rooms (23 singles €95 - 105, 95 doubles €115 -
BEST WESTERN PREMIER Hotel Astoria 125, 3  suites €250  - 255, 2  Junior Suites €180  - 185).
QC‑2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385- P ­i ­T ­J ­H ­A ­R ­6 ­U ­F ­L ­G ­B ­K ­w ­W
1) 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria. hhhh
hr. 100 rooms (36 singles €79 - 97, 2 suites €213 - 244,
28 King €93 - 125, 18 Twin €93 - 125, 12 Executive €111 -
150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). P­T­H­A­R­ www.inyourpocket.com
U­L­G­K­W hhhh
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 59
Hotels
3 Stars
Central
QD/C‑4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax
(+385-1) 484 01 03, infor@hotel-central.hr, www.hotel-
central.hr. 69 rooms (24 singles €68 - 80, 39 doubles €75 -
95, 6  triples €93  - 107). P­i ­O­H­A­R­6­L­W
hhh

Hotel Laguna Zagreb


QA‑4, Kranjčevićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 304 70 00, fax
(+385-1) 304 70 77, info@hotel-laguna.hr, www.hotel-
laguna.hr. 166  rooms (62  singles €50  - 70, 83  doubles
€60 - 80, 15 triples €70 - 90, 6 suites €90 - 120). P­i ­J­
H­A­R­6­U­I­G­B­K­X­W hhh

Jadran
QD‑2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax (+385-1) 461
21 51, jadran@hup-zagreb.hr, www.hup-zagreb.com.
49 rooms (24 singles €74, 20 doubles €86, 5 triples €98).
P­i ­J­A­R­6­U­L­G­K­W hhh

Jägerhorn
QC‑2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483
35 73, info@hotel-jagerhorn.hr, www.hotel-jagerhorn.
hr. 18 rooms (3 singles €95 - 119, 13 doubles €115 - 125,
2 apartments €159). P­i ­J­A­L­G­B­K­W hhh

AROUND THE Airport


Aristos
QJ‑6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax
(+385-1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www.
hotel-aristos.hr. 150  rooms (5  singles €78  - 150,
134  doubles €84  - 160, 7  triples €130  - 190, 3  suites
€190 - 240, 1 Presidential Suite €350 - 460). P­i ­H­
A­R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­S­w­W hhhh

Best Western Hotel Stella


Photo by Anette Fleck QNadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091
636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.
hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. 44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76,
SYMBOL key 41  doubles €100  - 114, 2  triples €128, 1  suite €141).
P­A­U­L­G­W hhh
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

O Casino H Conference facilities


homestays
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
Evistas
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 54/
(+385-) 091 533 70 96, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly evistas.hr, www.evistas.hr. 21  rooms (6  singles €35  -
K Restaurant J Old town location 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments
€49 - 105). P­A ­L ­G
D Sauna C Swimming pool
InZagreb
I Fireplace W Wifi
Qtel. (+385-) 091 652 32 01, info@inzagreb.com, www.
B Outside seating inzagreb.com. P­Z­T­A­R­6­U­F­G­B­C­W

60 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Directory

formation about specific lawyers that specialise in the ser-


Business connections vices you need.QB‑4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616
American Chamber of Commerce 52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Open
QE‑4, Strojarska 22, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77, fax (+385-1) 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
483 67 76, office@amcham.hr, www.amcham.hr. Open
08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Notaries
Croatian Chamber of Economy Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora
Freephone info: 0800-1852QB‑3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country:
(+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@ there is a primary association that you have to go through.
hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, QD‑2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1)
Sun. 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00,
Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Fina - The Finance Agency
Call centre tel. 0800 0080QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70,
tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fina.hr, www.fina.hr. Open Pharmacy 0-24
08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Central pharmacy
QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98.
Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entre- Dubrava
preneurship QL‑2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50.
QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11, Ilica
info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp.hr. Open 08:30 - QG‑3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21.
16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Ozaljska
QH‑3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86.
Siget
Lawyers QI‑5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.
Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian
Bar Association) facebook.com/
Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not al-
lowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for in-
zagrebinyourpocket
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 61
Directory
Post
The best Zagreb Central Post Office
QD‑4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@
posta.hr, www.posta.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00.
has to offer
Kindergarten
in one great app Horizons
With a warm, safe and colorful atmosphere, teachers that
nurture and stimulate your child’s learning and an excel-
lent educational programme with creative workshops,
arts and crafts, field trips, sports activities etc. - we can
definitely say Horizons is a children’s heaven.QI‑2, Zelen‑
gaj 6, tel. (+385-1) 457 82 05, milena@kindergarten.hr,
www.kindergarten.hr.

tAX
VAT in Croatia is generally set at 25% and is due on most
goods and services. Lower rates of VAT are applicable to
goods such as bread and milk, and the tourism sector. Em-
ployers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities
all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their
incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is
determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up
to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and
11 000kn and 40% for a net income higher than 13 200kn.
Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law
determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an
amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable;
Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contribu-
tions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and
the employer pays an additional 15.20%. The minimum
startup capital for a limited liability company is the coun-
ter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits
the capital into a temporary account with an authorized

City Essentials
business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered
business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into
regular company accounts.

Only our favourite places


Works offline, incl. maps
Free download
Incl. dozens of other cities

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

62 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com


Street register
29. X. 1918. C-1 Gundulićeva B-3 Lepušićeva E-3
Aleksandrove stube B-1 Habdelićeva C-1 Lisinskog B-1
Amruševa C-2 Harmica C-2 Lopašićeva E-2
Andrije Hebranga B-3 Hochmanova A-3 Ljudevita Gaja C-3
A. Heinza E-1 Hrvojeva E-3 Margaretska C-2
Andrije Žaje A-3 Ilica A-2 Marićev prolaz C-2
Antuna Bauera E-3 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Markovićev trg B-1
Arnoldova A-2 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Martićeva D-2
Augusta Šenoe D-3 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Marulićev trg B-3
A. Marina Držića E-4 Jagićeva A-3 Masarykova B-2
Bakačeva C-2 Janka Draškovića D-3 Matičina C-3
Barčićeva E-2 Jezuitski trg C-1 Matoševa B-1
Baruna Trenka C-3 Jukićeva A-3 Mažuranićev trg B-3
Basaričekova C-1 Jurišićeva C-2 Medulićeva B-3
Bednjanska B-4 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Mesnička B-2
Berislavićeva C-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Photo by Višnja Arambašić
Biankinijeva E-2 Kačićeva A-3 Miklouševa C-1
Bogovićeva C-2 Kamaufova E-2 Mikulićeva E-1
Božidara Adžije A-3 Kamenita C-1 Miramarska C-4 Ribnjak C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3
Branjugova D-2 Kaptol C-1 Mletačka B-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3
Brešćenskoga E-2 Kapucinske stube B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Rokova A-2 Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3
Britanski trg A-2 Katančićeva C-3 Mrazovićeva D-3 Rubetićeva D-1 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3
Brozova A-4 Katarinin trg C-1 Nikole Tesle C-2 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3
Buconjićeva A-2 Klaićeva A-3 Novakova D-1 Runjaninova B-4 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3
Bulatova A-2 Kneza Borne D-3 Opatička C-1 Šalata D-1 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2
Bulićeva E-2 Kneza Branimira D-4 Opatovina C-1 Savska cesta A-4 Trg Petra Petretića E-1
Čačkovićeva E-1 Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3 Palmotićeva D-3 Schlosserove stube D-2 Trg Svetog Marka C-1
Cesarčeva C-2 Kneza Mislava D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Širolina E-3 Trnjanska cesta D-4
Čirilometodska C-1 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Park Ribnjak D-1 Skalinska C-1 Trpimirova D-4
Crnatkova A-4 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Paromlinska C-4 Smičiklasova D-2 Tuškanac B-1
Dalmatinska B-2 Koranska B-4 Patačićkina D-2 Splavnica C-2 Tvrtkova E-3
Degenova C-1 Kordunska A-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Stančićeva E-3 Unska B-4
Demetrova B-1 Koturaška A-4 Pavla Šubića E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Varšavska B-2
Dežmanova B-2 Kovačića Ante C-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Streljačka B-1 Vinkovićeva C-1
Domagojeva D-4 Kozarčeva A-1 Perkovčeva B-3 Strojarska E-4 Visoka B-1
Đorđićeva D-2 Kotarska C-1 Petrinjska C-2 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Vitezovićeva C-1
Dubravkin put B-1 Kralja Držislava D-3 Petrova E-1 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2 Vladimira Nazora A-1
Dvoranski prečac C-1 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Pierottijeva A-3 Svačićev trg C-3 Vlaška D-2
Erdödyeva E-3 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Pod zidom C-2 Švearova E-3 Voćarska cesta E-1
Felbingerove stube C-1 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Posilovićeva E-1 Brezovačkoga B-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1
Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Praška C-2 Tkalčićeva C-1 Vodnikova B-4
Frane Petrića C-2 Kršnjavoga A-3 Preobražanska C-2 Tomašićeva E-2 Vojnovićeva E-2
Franje Račkog D-2 Krutićeva E-3 Preradovićeva C-3 Tomićeva B-2 Vončininova D-1
Frankopanska B-3 Krvavi most C-2 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Tratinska A-4 Vramčeva D-1
Froudeova B-1 Kumičićeva C-4 Primorska A-2 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Vranicanijeva B-1
Golubovac B-1 Kurelčeva D-2 Radićeva C-1 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Vukotinovićeva B-3
Grič B-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Weberova C-1
Grgura Ninskog C-4 Laginjina E-2 Radnički dol A-1 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1

MREŽA DNEVNIH TRAMVAJSKIH LINIJA


ZAGREBAČKI
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Služba komunikacija i marketinga


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*poziv na broj 060 100 001 iz fiksne mreže:1,16 kn/min,


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iz mobilne 2,36 kn/min (PDV je uračunat).


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15 15 Operator: HT d.d., Savska cesta 32, Zagreb


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Ve
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AVENIJA 7
ZAPRUĐE
DUBROVNIK 14
14

LINIJE BROJ 1, 3 I 8 NE PROMETUJU SUBOTOM, NEDJELJOM I BLAGDANOM. 29.10.2014.


ROUTES 1, 3 AND 8 DO NOT OPERATE ON SATURDAY, SUNDAY OR PUBLIC HOLIDAYS.
Boris Bućan: Breakfast at Printer’s
April 14th – May 29th 2016
The world would be a more beautiful place if it was
covered with Bućan's posters.
The great world msueums that keep his works know
this: MoMA, Cooper-Hewitt Museum, New York;
Staatliches Museum für Angewandte Kunst, Munich;
Deutches Plakat Museum, Essen; Victoria and Albert
Museum, London, and many others.

Zagreb Museum of Contemporary Art / Av. Dubrovnik 17, Zagreb, Croatia

Hours: Tue–Sun: 11:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m. / Saturday: 11:00 a.m.–8:00 p.m. / Monday
and holidays: closed

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