Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
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Gower Rock
stuart Llewellyn RHOSSILI TOR BAY
er
Stu is a passionate climber, new router and FALL BAY THREE CLIFFS BAY
local enthusiast.
Rock
His dedication to the local climbing commu-
MEWSLADE SOUTHGATE
nity through the BMC has not only improved PAVILAND VALLEY PENNARD
access and support locally, but increased the PORT EYNON PWLLDU
area’s national presence with the creation of
the Gower Climbing Festival, the first step to
OXWICH MUMBLES
SELE
the creation of this very guide. CTED
With the release of this book, and a step Featuring:
STU ROCK
back from local climbing politics, Stuart is • Trad routes from Dif to E8. Gower offers a wide variety of climbing on an ART Clim
set to once again climb the rock, not just talk • Single pitch sport venues. enticing array of venues. On some routes you MAT LLEWEL
T WO LY
bs
ODF N AND
Swansea
Head
International
5km
Bay
Area Crag Walk in (min) Tidal Restrictions Position Sun <S <F3 <HVS <F5+ <E3 <F6c E4 &> F6c+&>
Oystermouth
83
Grade Comparison Chart A4
M4
A42 16
Trad Sport Trad Sport Trad Sport Trad Sport
Mumbles
Rhossili Trial Wall 10 Non tidal Sheltered pm 2 3 4
47
AUSTra l i an
technical
adjective
Am erica n
Retribution Wall 10 Non tidal Sheltered pm 3 2 1
A4118
7
A406
F rench
A 48
UIAA*
Wedge Wall 10 Non tidal Sheltered pm 4 1
Killay
B4295
Gorseinon
UK
UK
M4 Sheepbone Wall 10 Tidal Sheltered pm 8 6 1
Dunvant
Upper
Fall Bay Lewes Castle 10 Non tidal Windy pm 6 4 1
Killay
Pwlldu
Very F2+ 5.3 III
8
0
Difficult F3− 5.4 III+ Lewes Castle East 10 Non tidal All day 1 5 2
84
Pwlldu
A4 24 0
Bishopston
Head
IV
A4
Severe 4a F3 5.5 10
King Wall 10 Tidal All day 4 7
IV+
Kittle
HS 4b F3+ 5.6 12 8
11 Giant’s Cave 10 Tidal All day 1 2 3 7
V− A4
Southgate
Swansea
VS 4c F4 5.7 14 V Yellow Wall 15 Tidal Birds Sheltered am 6 6
Airport
Three Crosses
5.8 V+
16 Mewslade Jacky’s Tor 25 Semi tidal All day 2 3 2 4
HVS 5a F5 5.9 VI−
Upper Jacky’s Tor 20 Non tidal Sheltered am 6 1
Pennard
F5+ 5.10a 18 VI
Block Buttress 20 Tidal All day 1 3 3
Southgate
Three
Cliffs
Bay
E1 5b F6a
B4271
VI+
Parkmill
E2 5c F6a+ 5.10b Catacomb Gully 20 Non tidal Sheltered All day 3 4 5 2
19
84
5.10c VII−
Thurba Head 25 Tidal Birds All day 1 4 4
w r
A4
Tor Bay
20 Paviland Valley Third Sister 35 Non tidal Windy Most of the day 1 4 4
Oxwich Point
F6b 5.10d VII
c h
Oxwich
E3 F6b+ 5.11a 21 Zulu Zawn 25 Tidal Sheltered Midday 2
Penmaen
5
Bay
29
w
VII+
Llanelli
Oxwich
4
B4
F6c 5.11b 22 Paviland 25 Non tidal All day 4 3
L l
VIII−
Juniper Wall 25 Non tidal Most of the day 8 3 1
E4 6a F6c+ 5.11c
o n
23 Port Eynon Easter Buttress 45 Tidal All day 3 3
F7a 5.11d VIII
/ A f
E5 24 White Pillar 45 Semi Tidal All day 3 1 1
Oxwich
8
11
F7a+ 5.12a
Llanrhidian
Boiler Slab 25 Non tidal Windy All day 4 8 3
A4
o r
VIII+
6b F7b 5.12b 25 Oxwich Red Sea Walls 5 Tidal (approach) Sheltered Morning 4 17
IX− h
g
u
E6 F7b+ 5.12c 26 o Oxwich in the Woods 10 Tidal (approach) Sheltered Never 19 6
Port Eynon
L
Port Eynon
F7c 5.12d 27 IX
Point
Tor Bay Little Tor 15 Tidal All day 7 1
r
e
E7 6c F8a 5.13b 29
X− Great Tor 20 Non tidal All day 1
F8a+ 5.13c 30 A4118
Odin’s Wall 15 Tidal Sheltered All day 2 4
Scurlage
3
X
Overton
E8 F8b 5.13d 31
X+
Three Cliffs Bay Three Cliffs 25 Tidal All day 11 8
F8b+ 5.14a 32 Pobbles 25 Tidal Sheltered All day 5 1
7a
E9 F8c 5.14b 33 XI− Pobbles East 25 Tidal Sheltered All day 5 4
47
Llangennith
Port Eynon
B42
E10
F8c+ 5.14c 34 Southgate Watch House Slab 10 Non tidal Sheltered pm 2 5 3
1
XI
Mewslade
7b Watch House East 10 Semi tidal Sheltered pm 1 3 5
F9a 5.14d 35
Paviland
XI+ Foxhole Cove 10 Non tidal Sheltered All day 3 3 11
Rhossili
Valley
F9a+ 5.15a 36
Minchin Hole 15 Non tidal Sheltered Hardly ever 2 4
2
* Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme Bowen’s Parlour 15 Semi tidal Sheltered All day 2 14 5
Bay
Fall
Pennard Lower Pennard 15 Non tidal All day 3 4 2
petrol station
The UK trad grading system gives an adjective and a technical Uppper Pennard 15 Non tidal Sheltered am 4 2
Rhossili
Rhossili
campsite
grade. The adjectival grade gives an idea of the overall High Pennard 15 Non tidal pm 2 7
Bay
shop
hardest move or short section on the climb. Rams Tor 10 Semi tidal pm 12
Gow
er
Rock
ISBN: 978-1-906095-36-9
The Authors have asserted their rights under the Copyright, Designs
and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as Authors of this Work.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any
means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise,
without the prior written permission of the publisher.
Gower Rock
Gower Rock aims to showcase the depth and quality Any visitor to the area will see why: it is packed full of
of rock climbing on this wild, beautiful yet somewhat stunning beaches and welcoming villages, and provides
unknown peninsula. The book’s development has been a breath-taking backdrop to numerous outdoor activities
inspired both by local enthusiasm and the absence of including surfing and paragliding. There are miles of
a modern guidebook to the area. While we love the fantastic coastal paths to walk along (a perfect way to
tranquillity of the crags and the absence of queues, explore the many treats of the peninsula) and copious
we also want to share this really rather special place amounts of climbing.
with others. The area has been crying out for a modern
guidebook for many years, and now you hold it in your The spark that ignited this guidebook was the crea-
hands. We hope it will lead you into new and exciting tion of a dozen topos for the British Mountaineering
places where adventure, challenge and excitement are Council (BMC) Gower Climbing Festival, which
all part of the experience. debuted in 2009. The aim of this event is to promote
It is perhaps because of the absence of just such a guide climbing on the peninsula, drawing climbers from
that Gower is often overlooked. This is a genuine shame all over the UK for one weekend in September to
as the area contains a wide variety of climbing on an celebrate Gower climbing while raising money for
enticing array of venues. On some routes you can step the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI), the
straight off golden sands onto classic lines; in other Coastguard and the South Wales Bolt Fund (SWBF).
cases you can wend your way across peaceful cliff-top
paths before dropping into some pretty demanding
terrain just a stone’s throw from ice-cream-scoffing
tourists and pastoral picnic spots.
To most climbers, coastal climbing in South Wales means
Pembrokeshire. After glancing through these full-colour
topos and drooling over the inspirational photographs,
we hope that you’ll reconsider driving past that wiggly
bit of coast just before the M4 ends and spend some of
your time on our cliffs and crags.
The magnificent areas of Fall Bay and Three Cliffs have
enough classic routes to keep you busy on many visits to
the peninsula. The sport crags of Southgate compliment
and add variety to the well-established hard routes of
Oxwich and Pwlldu. The selection of venues and climbs
included in this guide will provide plenty of adventure
for all climbers, among some of the best scenery in
the UK. In a letter to his girlfriend, Swansea’s poet son
Dylan Thomas described Gower as: “GOWER is a very
beautiful peninsula, some miles from this blowsy town…
as a matter of fact it is one of the loveliest sea-coast
stretches in the whole of Britain”. The first BMC Gower Climbing Festival.
In 1956 the Gower peninsula was designated as the
UK’s first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).
4
acknowledgements 5
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Many individuals have contributed to the finished book you hold in your
hands. A core collection of climbers have helped the two authors massively
by providing feedback on the routes, topos and approaches and contributing
to the contents of the book: to John Bullock, Stefan Doerr, Nik Goile, Martin
Kocsis, Simon Rawlinson, Simon Robinson and Steve ‘Sparky’ Warrington,
thank you!
A handful of photographers deserve special praise for the Personal thanks from Stuart must go to Christopher
exciting look of this guide, and we are very grateful to be Mathewson, who helped in the early stages of approach-
allowed to use images from your collections. Gower now ing a publisher and the hours you spent guiding Stuart
has a deserving modern guidebook full of inspirational and the project.
imagery, a match for any other area in the UK. Our thanks We would also like to extend special thanks to Elfyn
must go to: Simon Rawlinson (www.makethenextmove. Jones (BMC) and Sian Musgrave (National Trust) for as-
co.uk), Chris Allen (www.rockall.biz), Carl Ryan (Red Mist sistance and guidance with the Access and Conservation
Extreme photography) and Wayne Tucker. Thank you to all notes, and Charles Romijn for his brilliantly drawn and
who posed for the photos; we hope you like the shots as entertaining cartoons. Our kind thanks also go to the fol-
much as we do. lowing people for their various contributions and support:
We must also thank those that kindly sat and read Berwyn Evans, David Garnett, Tom Hill, Tom Hutton, Tony
through the endless scripts which were the bare bones Rees, Andy Sharp, Dave Sperring and Roy Thomas.
of the book, before the creation of this colourful and A final word of thanks must go to our publisher Franco
glossy sleek-finished guide: Becky Bailey, Donna Carless, Ferrero for giving us this opportunity. You no longer have
Gwyn Evans and Ben Tiffin. an excuse not to have experienced Gower Rock!
The Worm.
Photo: Wayne Tucker.
contents 7
Contents
GOWER ROCK (introduction) 3 TOR BAY 83
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 5 LITTLE TOR 84
USING THE GUIDE 9 LITTLE STAR WALL 85
ACCESS & CONSERVATION 12 GREAT TOR 87
SAFETY & ACCIDENTS 14 ODIN’S WALL 88
VISITING GOWER 16
THREE CLIFFS BAY 91
RHOSSILI 19 THREE CLIFFS 92
TRIAL WALL 20 POBBLES 96
RETRIBUTION WALL 22 POBBLES EAST 96
WEDGE WALL 24
SHEEPBONE WALL 25 SOUTHGATE 99
PLATFORM AREA 26 EQUAL OPPORTUNITIES 101
POSER BUTTRESS 27 WATCH HOUSE SLAB 102
WATCH HOUSE EAST 103
FALL BAY 29 FOXHOLE COVE 105
THE CANYON 30 MINCHIN HOLE 109
LEWES CASTLE 31 BOWEN’S PARLOUR 111
LEWES CASTLE EAST 33
KING WALL 34 PENNARD 115
GIANT’S CAVE 36 LOWER PENNARD 116
YELLOW WALL 39 UPPER PENNARD 119
HIGH PENNARD 120
MEWSLADE 45
MEWSLADE QUARRY 46 PWLLDU 123
JACKY’S TOR 47 PWLLDU 125
BLOCK BUTTRESS 50
CATACOMB GULLY 51 MUMBLES 129
THURBA HEAD 54 CASWELL 132
ROTHERSLADE 134
PAVILAND VALLEY 57 SEWERPIPE INLET 134
THIRD SISTER 59 CHINA WALL 134
ZULU ZAWN 60 THE OLD BRIDGE 135
PAVILAND 62 LIMESLADE 135
JUNIPER WALL 64 CRAB ISLAND 135
RAMS TOR 138
PORT EYNON 67
EASTER BUTTRESS 68 A BRIEF HISTORY 140
WHITE PILLAR 69 Index 142
BOILER SLAB 70
OXWICH 73
RED SEA WALLS 74
OXWICH IN THE WOODS 78
8 Introduction
USING THE GUIDE Where the parking is not so obvious, each chapter has
This aim of this book is to be a modern selective guide, further details to help you find the intended spot. There is
showcasing the best climbing Gower has to offer. We an accompanying approach map to get you from your car
have attempted to profile the best on show for trad, sport, to the crag. Several of the areas can be reached by bus
bouldering and even some deepwater solos. Where from the main bus station in Swansea.
a crag has been included, the majority of routes have
been described (unless they are of poor quality). In the OTHER GUIDEBOOKS
case of sport crags, all lines have been included to avoid The guidebook team would like to acknowledge the
confusion. This approach, akin to the recent trend of efforts of all the climbers who have worked on document-
other guidebooks, is designed to make this a useful and ing the climbing on the Gower peninsula over the years,
practical guide to help people get out and climb. from the very first guide book (Jeremy Talbot’s 1970
All route information is presented in the following style: Gower Peninsula) to the many comprehensive guides
since produced by the South Wales Mountaineering
1 Example Route
• 20m VS 4c Club (SWMC) including the 2003 edition by Roy Thomas
FA A. Climber & A.N. Other 1982 and Goi Ashmore. Adrian Berry’s Rockfax miniGuide is a
recent update for the area, documenting sport climbing
The first line is route name, difficulty and length, with developments. Without these books and the information
the number relating to the photo topo. Details of the they contain, we wouldn’t have climbed in this wonderful
first ascent team, and date climbed, are provided in the area and been able to document the routes for this
second line. Additional information to compliment the guidebook. In recent years the SWMC has made a lot of
photo topo is then provided in the description; don’t this information freely available on their website, with
forget to read any notes about tides, access or descents. climbers submitting up-to-date new route information for
not only the Gower but the vast Southeast Wales area.
GETTING THERE Search online for ‘SWMC wiki’.
The approach to each venue is described at the start of
the chapter, and assumes use of the peninsula map on
the inside cover of the book to help get you close.
BOULDERING
Dotted between the detailed pages of
the main climbing areas, suggestions of
bouldering venues along the peninsula
are also included for you to seek out and
crank! Descriptions of where to park,
tidal status and approaches are included,
but in general we recommend simply
exploring (that’s half the fun). For
those who do want an itinerary
of problems search online for
‘SWMC wiki’, where a great
collection of information
can be found.
Bouldering mats:
Highly recommended;
it must also be
emphasised that in
some venues the top
outs are loose.
ACCESS &
CONSERVATION
WHAT MAKES GOWER SPECIAL?
The Gower Peninsular is home to a wide variety of
natural history dating back some 400 million years and
a human history dating back 33,000 years (see Paviland
Valley). Nesting peregrines (the fastest creatures on the
planet) and rare plants that grow nowhere else in the UK
can be found, and a record of the developing planet is
held within the rock beds and cave sediments around the
coast. The species and landforms found on the Gower
cliffs provide a stunning and impressive backdrop to respecting SSSIs, following nesting restrictions and
the climbing sites, and it’s in everyone’s interests to do generally keeping a low profile.
what we can to protect these incredible sites for future
generations. KEEPING OUT OF TROUBLE
Given the SSSI status, it could be deemed illegal to
WHAT PROTECTS GOWER? recklessly damage or disturb the key conservation
Almost the whole of the South Gower coast is designated features of the site.
as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), in order to It is a criminal offence to disturb any nesting bird or
provide legal protection for its conservation. An area can to damage any nest site while it is in use. The bird
become a SSSI for its rare fauna and flora such as rare restrictions noted in this guide protect the nesting sites
plants or nesting birds or its geophysical features. for important species to prevent their further decline.
Always be aware of the impact your action may be
All land is owned by somebody and the inclusion of a having on the wildlife and landscape around you.
venue in this guide does not imply that you have the Activities such as route cleaning, modifying the rock face
right to go there. There are no known access issues and placing bolts could cause damage to the protected
at any of the venues in this guide, but climbers have features, and permission from the landowner should be
an obvious vested interest in acting responsibly. This sought. For more information on new routes please see
includes responsible parking, taking litter home, the section on ‘Ethics, styles and developments’ above.
CRAG CODE
www.thebmc.co.uk
Access Check the Regional Access Database (RAD) on www.thebmc.co.uk for the latest access information
Parking Park carefully – avoid gateways and driveways
Footpaths Keep to established paths – leave gates as you find them
Risk Climbing can be dangerous – accept the risks and be aware of other people around you
Respect Groups and individuals – respect the rock, local climbing ethics and other people
Wildlife Do not disturb livestock, wildlife or cliff vegetation; respect seasonal bird nesting restrictions
Dogs Keep dogs under control at all times; don’t let your dog chase sheep or disturb wildlife
Litter ‘Leave no trace’ – take all litter home with you
Toilets Don’t make a mess – bury your waste
Economy Do everything you can to support the rural economy – shop locally
BMC Participation Statement — Climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death.
Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.
ACCESS & CONSERVATION 13
If you do encounter any problems with access while out The chough (a small crow) is easily identified by its red
on the cliffs of Gower, then please do not antagonise beak and feet. This nationally rare bird is a sociable
the landowner or other organisations. The best course of and year-round resident. They only nest at a handful
action is to refer the issue to the BMC via their regional of sites on the peninsula, normally around March and
access database (RAD; www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag), occasionally a second attempt as late as June.
where excellent up-to-date information can be found. Peregrine falcon
The peregrine falcon feeds on small mammals and other
FEATHERED FRIENDS birds. It has a distinct high-pitched shriek and hunts by
The cliffs of Gower are renowned for their bird hovering effortlessly until its prey is spotted. They nest
populations. Some are present year round, while on rocky ledges and cover the surrounding rock in white
others are spring and summer visitors only. If you hear guano. They are the fastest creature on the planet, reach-
obviously distressed birds screeching or flying around in ing speeds of over 200mph during their hunting swoop.
an agitated manner, especially during the nesting season, The sound when they hit their prey is unforgettable.
it’s highly likely that you are causing a disturbance. If Razorbill
this is the case, then move away from the site as quickly
and safely as possible. It takes as little as 20 minutes for
abandoned eggs to chill and for the chicks to die.
Consider the following Top Tips to ensure you make the DISCLAIMER
most of your day. Climbing may result in personal injury or death and
• Check before you go. Information about tide is by its very nature dangerous. These risks are
times and heights can be found online at www. increased if you are inexperienced and ill-equipped,
climbers-club.co.uk/tides, or in a tide table bought so ensure you know what you are doing. If not, seek
in a local shop. professional instruction.
• Information in this guide is based on a rough Loose rock, pegs, in situ threads and even bolts carry
average; what you experience on the day may not a particular risk. It is down to the individual to assess
be what you were expecting. the situation and make their own decisions.
• Pick your tide well. Spring tides offer more room Although every care has been taken, the authors
at the crag’s base at low water, but reach higher accept no responsibility for errors or omissions or
up the face at high tide. Neaps move less water the way you use this guide: climbers are responsible
around, allowing access to ledges all day on some for their own safety, using their judgement and
crags (and preventing access to others). assessment of risk.
• Keep an eye on the sea; it comes back in fast, The authors, publisher and distributors of this book
especially in narrow zawns where it’s funnelled in. do not recognise any liability for injury or damage
• Some waves team up out at sea to make rogue caused to or by climbers, third parties or property
waves whose aim in life is to surprise and soak the arising from such persons seeking reliance on
unwary. Consider building a belay at the base of this guidebook for their own safety.
the cliff to avoid being swept away.
16 visiting gower
VISITING GOWER
Below are some suggestions for places to eat, sleep and
be merry when staying in the area; see the map on the
inside cover for locations.
ACCOMMODATION
There are options for all budgets when staying in the
area, from camping to plush hotels. More information
about all kinds of accommodation can be found by
visiting www.the-gower.com.
Recommended campsites (see area map on the inside
cover) include: (1) Pitton Cross near Rhossili; (2) Hillend at
Llangennith; (3) Carreglwyd at Port Eynon; (4) Nicholaston The King Arthur in Reynoldston has a popular beer garden
Farm; and (5) Three Cliffs Bay. Wild camping is not and excellent cuisine.
allowed anywhere on Gower; please respect this and The Kings Head in Llangennith is worth a visit if you’re
stay at a campsite. staying out that way, and very close to the popular
Slightly further up the comfort scale is the Rhossili surfing beach.
bunkhouse sleeping 22 people, ideal for individuals or The Gower Inn is conveniently located on the main road
groups. The YHA in Port Eynon (located in an old lifeboat in Parkmill. Its ample parking, seating and beer garden
house) is also a good option. are good reasons to pay it a visit.
For those who prefer hotels, there are several on the The Beaufort Arms in Kittle does a good pint and very
peninsula as well as dozens in nearby Swansea. The good food.
Worm’s Head Hotel at Rhossili is well situated at the The Joiners in Bishopston has great local beers and a
western end of Gower and boasts stunning views. friendly atmosphere (well worth a visit on the way home).
B4
24
National Trust
7
Old Castle
Fort Visitor Centre
Retribution Wall Wall
Sheepbone Wall
Wedge Wall
Fisherman’s
Platform Platform
Area Trial Wall
Poser
Buttress
Gorse
Gorse
Worms 0 250m
Head
RHOSSILI
The cliffs of Rhossili overlook three miles of sandy beach, complete with ship
wreck and haunted house. The crags are old quarried faces with a fine mix of
both bolted and traditionally protected lines, as well as ample opportunity for
deepwater soloing. If this isn’t enough for you, then the car park is outside a
pub, the walk in is flat and the sunsets are world class.
Trial Wall: After 5 minutes or so, when the track is ledges heading to the right, or make a short abseil down
closest to the cliff top edge, peel off and follow a path one of the corners to ledges below.
down to the right. The crag appears in front of you as you Platform Area: From where the drystone wall turns
descend (the path is not as steep as it looks). away from the track, head towards The Worm for another
Retribution Wall: Found just around the corner from 100m until a path can be followed between two large
Trial Wall, follow the path down and around to the right. gorse patches and down over a steep edge to the lower
Wedge Wall: This crag forms the bank of the descent level. Below you is a large tidal platform frequented
path to Trial Wall. Head down as for Trial Wall and, as by fishermen. The crag is to the right of this and can be
the main path heads right, peel off left and continue easily viewed on the approach. Scramble down ledges to
down a gully that leads to the base of the wall. reach the start of the routes.
Sheepbone Wall: Located at sea level directly below Poser Buttress: As for Platform Area to the lower level,
Trial Wall. Head down to some ledges under Trial Wall, then follow the path to the left. The crag is tucked away
then either scramble down to beach level over more in the narrow zawn below you.
20 RHOSSILI
The lower crack and overlap have some bolts, but you
get to place your own gear for the finish shared with
The Adulteress.
RHOSSILI 21
6
5
3
1
2
Superb climbing up the technical wall. Head up to and A hard bouldery start leads to easier climbing past the
past the overlap, then continue up past a thin break to a break of Shakeout.
hard section that leads to the prominent groove.
7 The Hant
• 16m F7a
4 Crime and Punishment
• 23m E4 6b FA Andy Sharp & Pete Lewis April 1987
FFA Andy Sharp & John Harwood 18th October 1981 A right-hand variant to Inch Pinch, with good independent
One of the stand-out routes of the crag and the first of climbing in the upper section.
the old aid routes to be freed here. Several bolts are in
place, but a few wires are still needed for the sustained 8 Tribulations
• 12m F7a
upper wall. FA Roy Thomas 20th September 1998
through the bulge lead to a desperate finish through the A girdle of Trial Wall starting on the right and following
overhang. The original finish avoided the crux with a the obvious break line to finish as for The Adulteress.
short traverse right, reducing the grade to a mere F7b+
(which makes for a more consistent and worthwhile
outing in its own right).
22 RHOSSILI
corner from Trial Wall, which offers a good mix of routes, Scramble precariously up to the base of the crack,
styles and grades. The older traditional lines can now layback up this before reaching the ramp and continue
finish at the lower-offs, saving you the esoteric grassy along the crack, stepping right at its end to gain the
finishes. This crag is not affected by the tide, but faces lower-off.
north and takes its time to dry outside of the summer
months. 3 Pillars of the Earth
• 23m F6b
SS 4067 8785 FA Stuart Llewellyn 21st August 2011
Aspect: N Climb the pillar of rock past the bulge and onto the slab
above, avoiding the jug flakes out left (Laughing Spam
1 Spades of Glory
• 16m F5+ Fritter). At the top move right to the lower-off.
FA Matt Woodfield 21st August 2011
Scramble up grassy ledges to gain the corner on the left 3a World Without End
• 23m F6b
side of the crag. Climb the corner using holds on the FA Stuart Llewellyn 21st August 2011
face on the right until a tricky step can be made to the A variation on Pillars of the Earth approaches the difficult
lower-off. slab from the left side of the pillar over the roof.
RHOSSILI 23
1 3a
3 4
4 Somme Mothers
• 23m HVS 5a
FA Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8th November 1981
6 Buckets of Bubbly
• 25m F5
FA Steve Warrington 21st August 2011
1 3
2
small crag boasts several easy lines on quarried rock. It The left-hand route up the positive arête starts with a
faces west and is quite sheltered, but feels very greasy tricky couple of moves out left, finishing in the grassy
when the rock is damp. bay above.
SS 4063 8781
Aspect: W 2 Wedgling
• 9m F5
FA Stuart Llewellyn 9th September 2011
3 Wedge-egade Master
• 9m F5+
FA Stuart Llewellyn 9th September 2011
5 Atomic Wedgie
• 8m F6a
FA Matt Woodfield 9th September 2011
5 7
6
13
3 9
2 8
7a 11
1 10
12 14 15
good low-grade routes; this overlooked and underrated Climb to and along the obvious curving crack, gained
venue is well worth a visit. Although not the tallest of from the deep cleft on the right. A bold direct start adds
crags, this venue does offer a real sea cliff feel. a grade.
When looking down the crag from below Retribution
Wall, an oval pool can be seen at the base of Chimney 4 Chimney Crack
• 10m VD
Crack (a useful landmark when abseiling in). Climbing FA Jeremy Talbot 1968
is possible from the ledges about 2 hours either side of Start in the corner and head up the chimney.
low tide. The crag faces northwest so gets very little sun,
making it slow to dry outside the summer months. 5 Skull
• 10m 4a HS
SS 4064 8785 FA Jeremy Talbot 1968
Aspect: NW Start as for Chimney Crack, then step right to the sloping
ledge at 4m and climb the steep cracked wall above.
1 First Diedre
• 10m D
FA Jeremy Talbot 1968 6 Cross
• 12m D
Head up the pitted wall and finish up the groove above. FA Jeremy Talbot 1968
A good route up the steep wall, passing the block on its 7 Deep Cut
• 18m VD
left. FA Jeremy Talbot 1968
8 Forgotten Elephant
• 14m HS 4b PLATFORM AREA
FRA Matt Woodfield & Stuart Llewellyn 19th April 2011 Platform Area is a quality venue set just above high tide
The thin crack up the steep wall right of Deep Cut gained level, sporting two good traditional routes and a fine
from below. deepwater solo.
SS 4038 8765
9 Great Diedre
• 12m S 4a Aspect: NW
FA Jeremy Talbot 1968
Drop down the groove from the platform and traverse left
10 Yellow Edge
• 12m S along the break until a move past an overlap (just before
FA Jeremy Talbot 1968 the arête) leads you up the final wall, taking care with
Climb cracks right of the arête until a step left allows it the rock to finish.
to be followed to the top.
2 Year of the Snail
• 24m VS 4b
11 Great Diedre II
• 15m VS 4c FA Matt Ward 16th August 1987
FA C. Hard & Gwyn Evans 1975 Start as for Stardust but then head directly up the wall.
A good climb up the corner past a tricky overhang.
3 Avoid Meeting the Portuguese Man-of-War 40m VS 4c
•
12 Pistas Canute
• 15m VS 4b FA L. Davies & Phil Thomas July 1989
FA Alun Beaton & Chris Allen 1989 A great deepwater solo with many variations and
Start up Slanting Chimney, then break out leftwards up extensions. Start as for Stardust and continue around the
steep ground, around the arête and finish up the wall arête, through the cave and into the sea on the other side,
above. finishing up on easy rock across the water.
For a longer outing start on the pedestal next to the
13 Slanting Chimney
• 14m VD fishermen’s platform, down climb the chimney and
FA Mike Harber pre-1978 traverse around left to join the original route. Instead of
Climb the slanting crackline. jumping in at the end, make the tricky move around the
next corner and keep moving left until you run out of rock,
14 Gambolling Gareth’s Arête
• 17m E1 5a water, strength or sunlight. Lots of escape routes are
FA Alan Richardson & R. Lloyd 1992 available en route, as well as ledges to rest on.
The arête is gained from the right and has a bold feel.
WARNING
15 Recess Crack
• 17m VS 4c For any deepwater solo in this area a high tide is
FA Jeremy Talbot 1968 needed. Although most of the landings on this route
Head up the back of the recessed area then the top crack are deep and clear of obstacles, some rocks do
to finish. protrude below the water line and should be treated
with caution. Check the landing zone at low water
before attempting the route. Rough seas, water
temperature, strong currents, other water users
and seals should also be taken into account before
setting off. If in doubt about the risks involved,
don’t do it.
RHOSSILI 27
1
2
1
3
4 5
2
of crackline challenges above the sea. The square-cut Traverse right from the belay ledge and climb the second
zawn is very tidal, but the routes described are best crack.
started from the ledge belay marked on the topo (reached
via abseil). Climbs can be started from the base about 1 3 Dicky Five Stones
• 22m E3 5c
hour either side of low water, but the lower wall takes FA Andy Sharp & Pete Lewis 1990
time to dry and is not very pleasant. A hanging belay A bold route that heads up the blank-looking wall
can be taken below any route, although this can be very between the cracks. Traverse in from the belay ledge and
uncomfortable. All routes can be viewed by scrambling make technical moves with some long reaches up the
round to a ledge on the other side of the zawn. The wall. Climbing eases with height.
angle of the wall and the depth of water below at high
tide means that these routes could be approached as 4 The Poser
• 24m E1 5b
deepwater solos. FA Tony Penning & Andy Sharp 23rd May 1982
SS 4934 8761 The third crack along is the best of the bunch, gained by a
Aspect: NW long traverse in from the belay ledge across a thin break.
1 Normal Service
• 18m VS 4b 5 Burning Rubber
• 26m E2 5b
FA Andy Sharp & John Harwood 5th December 1981 FA Tony Penning & Andy Sharp 23rd May 1982
From the belay ledge, climb right for a couple of metres The final crack needs a long traverse to reach. Finish
and head up the first crack. direct where the crack peters out.
Mumbles
Swansea
Swansea
Head
International
5km
Bay
Area Crag Walk in (min) Tidal Restrictions Position Sun <S <F3 <HVS <F5+ <E3 <F6c E4 &> F6c+&>
Oystermouth
83
Grade Comparison Chart A4
M4
A42 16
Trad Sport Trad Sport Trad Sport Trad Sport
Mumbles
Rhossili Trial Wall 10 Non tidal Sheltered pm 2 3 4
47
AUSTra l i an
technical
adjective
Am erica n
Retribution Wall 10 Non tidal Sheltered pm 3 2 1
A4118
7
A406
F rench
A 48
UIAA*
Wedge Wall 10 Non tidal Sheltered pm 4 1
Killay
B4295
Gorseinon
UK
UK
M4 Sheepbone Wall 10 Tidal Sheltered pm 8 6 1
Dunvant
Upper
Fall Bay Lewes Castle 10 Non tidal Windy pm 6 4 1
Killay
Pwlldu
Very F2+ 5.3 III
8
0
Difficult F3− 5.4 III+ Lewes Castle East 10 Non tidal All day 1 5 2
84
Pwlldu
A4 24 0
Bishopston
Head
IV
A4
Severe 4a F3 5.5 10
King Wall 10 Tidal All day 4 7
IV+
Kittle
HS 4b F3+ 5.6 12 8
11 Giant’s Cave 10 Tidal All day 1 2 3 7
V− A4
Southgate
Swansea
VS 4c F4 5.7 14 V Yellow Wall 15 Tidal Birds Sheltered am 6 6
Airport
Three Crosses
5.8 V+
16 Mewslade Jacky’s Tor 25 Semi tidal All day 2 3 2 4
HVS 5a F5 5.9 VI−
Upper Jacky’s Tor 20 Non tidal Sheltered am 6 1
Pennard
F5+ 5.10a 18 VI
Block Buttress 20 Tidal All day 1 3 3
Southgate
Three
Cliffs
Bay
E1 5b F6a
B4271
VI+
Parkmill
E2 5c F6a+ 5.10b Catacomb Gully 20 Non tidal Sheltered All day 3 4 5 2
19
84
5.10c VII−
Thurba Head 25 Tidal Birds All day 1 4 4
w r
A4
Tor Bay
20 Paviland Valley Third Sister 35 Non tidal Windy Most of the day 1 4 4
Oxwich Point
F6b 5.10d VII
c h
Oxwich
E3 F6b+ 5.11a 21 Zulu Zawn 25 Tidal Sheltered Midday 2
Penmaen
5
Bay
29
w
VII+
Llanelli
Oxwich
4
B4
F6c 5.11b 22 Paviland 25 Non tidal All day 4 3
L l
VIII−
Juniper Wall 25 Non tidal Most of the day 8 3 1
E4 6a F6c+ 5.11c
o n
23 Port Eynon Easter Buttress 45 Tidal All day 3 3
F7a 5.11d VIII
/ A f
E5 24 White Pillar 45 Semi Tidal All day 3 1 1
Oxwich
8
11
F7a+ 5.12a
Llanrhidian
Boiler Slab 25 Non tidal Windy All day 4 8 3
A4
o r
VIII+
6b F7b 5.12b 25 Oxwich Red Sea Walls 5 Tidal (approach) Sheltered Morning 4 17
IX− h
g
u
E6 F7b+ 5.12c 26 o Oxwich in the Woods 10 Tidal (approach) Sheltered Never 19 6
Port Eynon
L
Port Eynon
F7c 5.12d 27 IX
Point
Tor Bay Little Tor 15 Tidal All day 7 1
r
e
E7 6c F8a 5.13b 29
X− Great Tor 20 Non tidal All day 1
F8a+ 5.13c 30 A4118
Odin’s Wall 15 Tidal Sheltered All day 2 4
Scurlage
3
X
Overton
E8 F8b 5.13d 31
X+
Three Cliffs Bay Three Cliffs 25 Tidal All day 11 8
F8b+ 5.14a 32 Pobbles 25 Tidal Sheltered All day 5 1
7a
E9 F8c 5.14b 33 XI− Pobbles East 25 Tidal Sheltered All day 5 4
47
Llangennith
Port Eynon
B42
E10
F8c+ 5.14c 34 Southgate Watch House Slab 10 Non tidal Sheltered pm 2 5 3
1
XI
Mewslade
7b Watch House East 10 Semi tidal Sheltered pm 1 3 5
F9a 5.14d 35
Paviland
XI+ Foxhole Cove 10 Non tidal Sheltered All day 3 3 11
Rhossili
Valley
F9a+ 5.15a 36
Minchin Hole 15 Non tidal Sheltered Hardly ever 2 4
2
* Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme Bowen’s Parlour 15 Semi tidal Sheltered All day 2 14 5
Bay
Fall
Pennard Lower Pennard 15 Non tidal All day 3 4 2
petrol station
The UK trad grading system gives an adjective and a technical Uppper Pennard 15 Non tidal Sheltered am 4 2
Rhossili
Rhossili
campsite
grade. The adjectival grade gives an idea of the overall High Pennard 15 Non tidal pm 2 7
Bay
shop
hardest move or short section on the climb. Rams Tor 10 Semi tidal pm 12
Gow
Gower Rock
stuart Llewellyn RHOSSILI TOR BAY
er
Stu is a passionate climber, new router and FALL BAY THREE CLIFFS BAY
local enthusiast.
Rock
His dedication to the local climbing commu-
MEWSLADE SOUTHGATE
nity through the BMC has not only improved PAVILAND VALLEY PENNARD
access and support locally, but increased the PORT EYNON PWLLDU
area’s national presence with the creation of
the Gower Climbing Festival, the first step to
OXWICH MUMBLES
SELE
the creation of this very guide. CTED
With the release of this book, and a step Featuring:
STU ROCK
back from local climbing politics, Stuart is • Trad routes from Dif to E8. Gower offers a wide variety of climbing on an ART Clim
set to once again climb the rock, not just talk • Single pitch sport venues. enticing array of venues. On some routes you MAT LLEWEL
T WO LY
bs
ODF N AND