Finishing refers to the processes that converts the woven or knitted cloth into usable fabric and

to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or
"hand" (feel) of the finish textile or clothing.

Calendering
Decatising
Desizing for woven fabrics.
Pressing
Scouring with detergents, alkaline solutions, or enzymes removes foreign matter.
Shrinking, Sanforization
Shearing or singeing - smooths the fabric by removing the fine protruding fibers on the
surface of the fabric. Flame singeing is the standard process - the wet fabric is passed
through an array of gas burners at a suitable distance to burn the pills off its surface.

Bleaching of woven fabrics removes any prior color in order to obtain a uniform color
during the dying process.
Dyeing adds color.
Printing adds color and pattern.
Watering adds moiré patterns.

Fulling or waulking adds weight and density.

Hydrophobic finishing produces a fabric that repels stains or water.
Weighting silk with metallic salts or polymer adds weight and improves handle.

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 removes the protruding fibers of a fabric through the action of an
enzyme. Enzymes, such as cellulase for cotton, selectively remove protruding fibers.
These enzymes may be deactivated by an increase in temperature.

makes woven cotton fabric stronger, more lustrous, to have

better dye affinity, and to be less abrasive.

lifts the surface fibers to improve the softness and warmth, as in flannelette.

subjects the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery

wheels, making the surface velvet-like. This is a special finish used mostly in garments.

is a method of thickening woolen material to make it

more water-resistant.

to bring dimension stability to woolen fabrics.

makes one or both surfaces of the fabric smooth and shiny. The
fabric is passed to through hot, fast-moving stainless steel cylinders.

prevents a fabric and the produced garment from shrinking after

production. This is also a mechanical finish, acquired by feeding the fabric between a
roller and rubber blanket, in such a way the rubber blanket compresses the weft threads
and imparts compressive shrinkage.

are achieved by the addition of a chemical resin finish that makes the fiber take on a
quality similar to that of synthetic fibers.

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 causes a fabric to inhibit the growth of microbes. The
humid and warm environment found in textile fibers encourages the growth of the
microbes. Infestation by microbes can cause cross-infection by pathogens and the
development of odor where the fabric is worn next to skin. In addition, stains and loss of
fiber quality of

eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber, generated during

manufacturing, and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling. This heat setting fixes the fabrics
in the relaxed state, and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of the fabric.

A stiffening effect is desirable in certain

polyamides and polyester materials (e.g. petticoats, collar inner linings), which can be done by
reducing the mutual independence of structural elements of fabric by polymer deposition on
coating as a fine film.

compensate for lower moisture and water absorption capacity

in synthetic fiber materials, which become uncomfortable in contact with skin. Certain products,
based on modified (oxy-ethylated) polyamides, make the fabric more pleasant by reducing the
cohesion of water so that it spreads over a larger area and thus evaporates more readily.

alleviates pilling an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun

yarn fabrics, especially when they contain synthetics. Synthetic fibers are more readily brought
to the surface of a fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross-section, and due to their
higher tensile strength and abrasion resistance. With knit "picking" also occurs: by abrasion,
individual fibers work themselves out of yarn loops onto the surface, and the garment catches
on a pointed or rough object. Knitting is susceptible to these effects due to the open weave and
bulky yarn.

prevents dust from clinging to the fabric. Anti-static effective

chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermasol or heat treatment for fixing on
polyester fabrics. Polyether agents have been found to be useful but should not affect the dye-
equilibrium on fiber, lest they impair the rubbing fastness. In general, Thermasol anti-static
agents also have a good soil release action, which is as permanent as the anti-static effect. Anti-
static finishes may also be of polyamide type, being curable at moderate temperatures.

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 give the filaments a rougher surface. Synthetic warp and weft
threads in loosely woven fabrics are particularly prone to slip because of their surface
smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no longer attractive.
Silica gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are used in combination with latex polymer
or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect, along with simultaneous improvement in
resistance to pilling or snagging.

reduces flammability.

with the increasing use of synthetic fibers for carpets and

other materials in public places, anti-microbial finishes have gained importance. Products which
are commonly applied are brominated phenols, quaternary ammonium compounds, organo-
silver and tin compounds, which can be applied as solutions or dispersions. They can also be
incorporated in a polymeric film deposited on the surface to achieve controlled release.

Permanent fabric finishes are the finishes (special alterations) done to the fabric to increase its
look, feel and appeal. They cannot be removed by washing, bleaching, dry cleaning, etc.
Permanent finishes are usually given by a chemical treatment. It changes the fibre
structure and remains as such on the fabric for the entire life of a fabric, e.g.
waterproofing, fire proofing, etc.

Temporary finishes are not durable and run off after first washing or dry-cleaning.
Many of these are renewable and can be reapplied at home, e.g. starching and
blueing of white fabrics.

Functional or special finishes are applied to improve the performance of a fabric

for some specific purpose, for example:
fireproof finish prevents the burning of fabrics used by fire brigade personnel.
waterproof finish makes fabrics water repellent for making umbrellas and
raincoats.
bulletproof finish on fabric saves the people from bullets and is generally used
by defence and police personnel for their safety.

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 crease-resistant finish makes cotton / wool fabric wrinkle resistant.

Decorative finishes achieve a decorative result or an enhanced aesthetic hand or appearance. A

decorative finish may give a fabric its name, such as moiré, plissé or chintz, for example. Some
decorative effects are not apparent because they enhance the surface texture of the finish by
brightening or dulling it. Some finishes increase the durability of the decorative effect.

The finishing process for the different types of fabrics all differ in their own aspects. For e.g.
Someone who purchases rayon fabric from a store might apply waterproofing finish to it and the
finish that was applied will cause the price of the fabric to go up. The finishing process of cotton
is described below.

The grey cloth,woven cotton fabric in its loom-state, not only contains impurities, including warp
size, but requires further treatment in order to develop its full textile potential. Furthermore, it
may receive considerable added value by applying one or more finishing processes.

Singeing is designed to burn off the surface fibres from the fabric to produce smoothness. The
fabric passes over brushes to raise the fibres, then passes over a plate heated by gas flames.

Depending on the size that has been used, the cloth may be steeped in a dilute acid and then
rinsed, or enzymes may be used to break down the size.

Scouring, is a chemical washing process carried out on cotton fabric to remove natural wax and
non-fibrous impurities (e.g. the remains of seed fragments) from the fibres and any added soiling
or dirt. Scouring is usually carried in iron vessels called kiers. The fabric is boiled in an alkali, which

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forms a soap with free fatty acids (saponification). A kier is usually enclosed, so the solution of
sodium hydroxide can be boiled under pressure, excluding oxygen which would degrade the
cellulose in the fibre. If the appropriate reagents are used, scouring will also remove size from
the fabric although desizing often precedes scouring and is considered to be a separate process
known as fabric preparation. Preparation and scouring are prerequisites to most of the other
finishing processes. At this stage even the most naturally white cotton fibres are yellowish, and
bleaching, the next process, is required.

Bleaching improves whiteness by removing natural coloration and remaining trace impurities
from the cotton; the degree of bleaching necessary is determined by the required whiteness and
absorbency. Cotton being a vegetable fibre will be bleached using an oxidizing agent, such as
dilute sodium hypochlorite or dilute hydrogen peroxide. If the fabric is to be dyed a deep shade,
then lower levels of bleaching are acceptable, for example. However, for white bed sheetings
and medical applications, the highest levels of whiteness and absorbency are essential.

A further possibility is mercerizing during which the fabric is treated with caustic soda solution to
cause swelling of the fibres. This results in improved lustre, strength and dye affinity. Cotton is
mercerized under tension, and all alkali must be washed out before the tension is released or
shrinkage will take place. Mercerizing can take place directly on grey cloth, or after bleaching.

Color is a sensation caused when white light from a source such as the sun is reflected off a
pigment on the surface. The pigment selectively reflects certain wavelengths of light while
absorbing others. A dye can be considered as a substance that can be fixed to a material that has
these properties. The colour it reflects is defined by the structure of the molecule, and particular
the parts of the chromogen molecule called the chromophore group. There are two processes
used to apply colour:

Finally, cotton is an absorbent fibre which responds readily to colouration processes. Dyeing, for
instance, is commonly carried out with an anionic direct dye by completely immersing the fabric
(or yarn) in an aqueous dyebath according to a prescribed procedure. For improved fastness to

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washing, rubbing and light, other dyes such as vats and reactives are commonly used. These
require more complex chemistry during processing and are thus more expensive to apply.

Printing, on the other hand, is the application of colour in the form of a paste or ink to the surface
of a fabric, in a predetermined pattern. It may be considered as localised dyeing. Printing designs
on to already dyed fabric is also possible. The common processes are block printing, roller printing
and screen printing

Another finishing process is raising. During raising, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teeth
to lift the surface fibres, thereby imparting hairiness, softness and warmth, as in flannelette.

Calendering is the third important mechanical process, in which the fabric is passed between
heated rollers to generate smooth, polished or embossed effects depending on roller surface
properties and relative speeds.

Many other chemical treatments may be applied to cotton fabrics to produce low flammability,
crease resist and other special effects.

Mechanical shrinking (sometimes referred to as sanforizing), whereby the fabric is forced to

shrink width and/or lengthwise, creates a fabric in which any residual tendency to shrink after
subsequent laundering is minimal.

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Finishing gives the following advantages:
Improved appearance – Lustre, Whiteness etc.,
Improved Feel which depends on the handle of the fabric and its Softness, Suppleness,
Fullness etc.,
It improves the wearing qualities – Non soiling, Ant crease.
It gives special properties required for particular uses - Water proofing, Flame proofing
etc.,
It covers the faults of the original cloth.
It increases the weight of the fabric.
It increases the sale value of the material.
It improves the natural attractiveness of the fabric.
It improves the serviceability of the fabric.

fabric is weakened, fabric becomes more flammable.

fabric needs dry cleaning to keep the finish, not a permanent
finish.
adds cost to the fabric or yarn mercerized. Adds cost to the fabric
or yarn mercerized.
stiffens fabric, needs to be washed carefully.
wears off.
often have to pay extra for it to be applied.
eventually washes out.
eventually washes out.
eventually washes out.

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CREASE RESISTANT / WRINKLE FREE FABRIC

FIRE PROOF FABRIC

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SANFORIZED FABRIC

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 PRESSED FABRIC

CALENDERED FABRIC

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BEATEN FABRIC

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