Costa Blanca Ridges

Mark Glaister

Moving along the initial section of the Bernia Ridge with The Puig Campana in the background.
Climbers -Tori Taylor, John Rushby, Paul Roberts and Rich Mayfield. Photo: Mark Glaister

Costa Blanca Ridges  Version 1.0 - February 2010 Registered to xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx REF yyyyyyyy   1
 MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com

Costa Blanca Ridges

This mini-guide is an introductory guide to the ridge climbs of the Costa Blanca in Spain.
The guide provides detailed logistical and climbing information to five of the area’s most
impressive and better-known ridge traverses. The ridges are rock climbs requiring compe-
tence from all members of the party at the grades allocated; the climbing situations are

MiniGUIDE
serious for both leader and those following. Although large sections of the ridges cover
scrambling territory, the length, abseils, occasional loose rock, route finding and mixed
protection from bolts and traditional equipment all mean that the ridges are more serious
undertakings than the vast majority of the bolted climbs found in the area at a similar
grade.
by Mark Glaister
The ridges included in this mini-guide are fantastic day-long outings that are all located
in stunning locations, and give expansive views of the Mediterranean and the coastal
Version 1.0 - February 2010 mountain ranges. The combination of the usually fine winter-weather, plentiful budget
flights and accommodation and superb climbing on the ridges and crags of the Costa
Rockfax MiniGuide design by Alan James and Mick Ryan. Blanca means that the ridges can be accomplished as a standalone objective for a holiday
Published by Rockfax Ltd. © Rockfax Ltd. 2010 or woven into a more conventional sport climbing holiday. However the ridges should most
definitely not be considered as a rest day or easy-day alternative to harder graded single-
pitch sport climbing as the terrain and length of most of the ridges is such that they will tax
COPYRIGHT NOTICE both body and mind.
All rights reserved. No part of this file may be duplicated in any form, by any electronic,
mechanical or other means, without the prior permission from the publisher.
This file has been branded as belonging to the registered user of the Rockfax web site
shown below. This entitles the individual to free updates of the same file within the same
version number while the MiniGUIDE is available. Any illegal copying of this file by any
electronic, mechanical or other means negates this agreement. Please help us fund more
MiniGUIDEs by not distributing this copy. Even if you think you are just printing out an
extra copy for one of your friends do you really know who your friend will give it to?

FOOTNOTE
The inclusion of a climbing area in this MiniGuide does not mean that you have a right
of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes and grades within this
MiniGuide are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on
the accuracy of the description. Climbers who attempt a climb of a particular standard
should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that
climb. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The author and
publisher of this MiniGuide do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to,
or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on
this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety.

The Rockfax Guidebook

The famous Costa Blanca Rockfax was published in January 2005.
This contains information on 42 crags and over 2300 routes and is
the essential companion to any climber visiting the area.
It can be purchased from the Rockfax web site - www.rockfax.com

Costa Blanca Ridges  Version 1.0 - February 2010 Registered to Gareth Harding REF yyyyyyyy   2
Costa Blanca Ridges MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com

CV-610

CV-60

Segaria
CV-725
Dénia
Ondara
CV-736

Jávea

Jalón
El Portitxol
Llíber
N-332
Bernia
E-15
AP-7
CV-70
Toix
CV-755
Calpe

El Realet
Puig Campana
Altea
When to go
N-332
The best climbing season runs from late September to May. During this time the air temperature
Finestrat
is usually ideal and rainfall is not, as a rule, a problem; although when it does rain it’s hard not to
notice! Summer is very hot even in the mountains, but with plenty of water and an early morning
About 10km
start the ridges should be reasonably pleasant. Benidorm

Getting to the Costa Blanca

The main airport for the Costa Blanca is Alicante. Alicante Is easily reached from many UK
airports including: London’s 3 main airports, Newcastle, Glasgow, Birmingham, Cardiff, Belfast, Exeter, Bristol and Bournemouth, The best fares are offered by Easyjet, Ryanair, Jet2, BA, Thomas
Cook, Thompson Flights and Iberia. It is also worth checking out the search facility at www.skyscanner.net. Flights cost from £40 to £200 for a return ticket between October and May. Car hire is
extremely cheap at around £60 to £100 per week. One of the most reasonable and reliable, with pick-up and drop-off at the airport, is www.holidayautos.co.uk.

Where to stay
Out of the peak summer-months there are many economical options for renting apartments and villas in the area, both on the coast and inland. Another option is the climber-run Orange House
in Finestrat, which offers rooms, bunkhouse and camping with a bar and cooking facilities www.theorangehouse.net. The Orange House also has plenty of information on the ridge climbs and
offers a drop-off and pick-up service for those undertaking the longer ridges.

Equipment
A 60m rope so that the abseils can be safely and easily set up, and plenty of rope is available so that pitches can be made as long as possible.
A light rack of wires and cams, and also plenty of long slings.
Some spare rope or tape for backing up the non-bolted abseil points.

Costa Blanca Ridges  Version 1.0 - February 2010 Registered to Gareth Harding REF yyyyyyyy   3
Segaria Ridge MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com

The long, uniform ridge that pokes inland from the coastal road north of Denia and the
huge mountainous lump of Montgo provides a superb day of varied ridge-scrambling,
abseils and climbing. The views of land and sea are panoramic and the difficulties at
either end are linked via a long section of elevated walking and easy scrambling that
allows the vista to be enjoyed to the full. Initially the motorway is close by, but as height is
gained this becomes less intrusive.

Conditions
The ridge is exposed to the sun for most of the day and shade is difficult to come by. This
is a long day out and rain, mist or wind will increase the technical difficulty of the climbing
and scrambling and the navigation of the ridge itself.

Equipment
The length and technical difficulty of the ridge is such that both rockboots and walking/
approach shoes should be taken. A small rack of wires and cams is required to protect
the climbing sections. The abseils are no more than 25m. The final abseil is from threads,
as these will need renewing from time-to-time some spare rope or tape will be useful.

Approach
From the Alicante - Valencia autopista AP7 take exit 62 signed to Ondara and turn left
onto the N332. At the second roundabout take the second exit (right). At the next rounda-
bout take the second exit (left). A further 50m on at the final roundabout take the second
exit (left). Continue for 250m and take a small, single-track road on the right into the
orange groves. Pass under the N332 and the AP7, after 300m park on the right next to a
derelict building, and a chained off dirt track.

To Gandia

P
Lat: 38.50.04.00 N
Lon: 00.00.10.00 W N-332a

Ondarra

Benimeli
Beniarbeig
Sanet y
Negrals E-15
AP-7 N-332

62

62
To Calpe
About 1km John Rushby making the first abseil on the way to the initial
summit of the Segaria Ridge. Photo: Mark Glaister

Costa Blanca Ridges  Version 1.0 - February 2010 Registered to Gareth Harding REF yyyyyyyy   4
Segaria Ridge
1 The Segaria Ridge. . 3tc 4
6 to 10 hours car-to-car
A long day out perched above the coastal plains, with
views out across sea and mountain. A small rack of
wires and cams is required to protect the climbing
sections. The abseils are no more than 25m. The final
abseil is from threads and these may need renewing
from time to time. It is worth noting that the ridge
is much longer than it appears and once the initial
summit cross is gained there is still more than 2/3 of
the ridge (by time) to be accomplished.
Approach to the base of the ridge:- From the parking
area walk up vague paths through low brush and easy-
angled scree to below the left side of the ridge. Follow a
path rightwards below the face. Beyond a large perched
boulder on the cliff the face drops back and becomes
more vegetated, the route starts at this point.
3500m. Walk rightwards up the grassy slopes, then
work up leftwards on ledges to the start of a horizontal
leftwards traverse below the steeper upper-section
of the ridge above. Move left along the horizontal
ledge passing a tricky step left (3+) where the ledge
disappears midway, to a belay at the col on the arete.
Moving fast accross one of the scrambling sections. Move left and down slightly before climbing the easy
Photo: Mark Glaister face to a point where the arete can be gained at a
double bolt belay. A steep move gains gradually easing
Cross on first high point
Descent by downclimb
or abseil from an abseil
Long, broad section of ridge
point on north side of
ridge 30m before ridge
steepens and drops to col.
Narrow
Abseil from section
threads
Masts
Easy path Scramble or climb
out leftwards from
col and then up to
ridge
Walk down to col
Line of roads
and paths back
to parking
Costa Blanca Ridges  Version 1.0 - February 2010
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
ground above. Continue up the ridge, past an exposed
narrowing to a bolted abseil point. Abseil to the notch
below. Climb rightwards out of the notch (4) to a fixed
rope and follow this to easy ground. Scramble easily
to a cross on the first of a number of closely spaced
summits. The next section of the ridge is much easier
and is essentially easy walking and scrambling along
the broad top of the ridge for around 2km. At the end
of this section the ridge terminates abruptly at a wide
steep sided col in the ridge. 30m back along the ridge
from the edge of the col a crack in a noticeably flat
section of ridge is the location of an downclimb or
short abseil (threads in-place) down the north side
of the ridge to a path that leads into the base of the
col. Climb left (2+) from the base of the col before
heading up easing ground to regain the ridge. Follow
the superbly positioned narrow-ridge to a drop-off at its
end and make one final abseil to huge boulders and a
path, which quickly leads to the TV mast at the end of
the ridge. Head down easy, but rocky and vegetated
ground to a broad, grassy col to the south, pick up
a good path that gains a series of small roads and
paths. These wind along flat ground below the ridge,
back to the parking.
Abseil to notch
Narrow section
Climb rightwards
out of notch
to fixed rope
Bolt belay
Easy face
Exposed Traverse
Large perched
boulder
1
Registered to Gareth Harding REF yyyyyyyy   5
Bernia Ridge MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Visible from nearly all points on the Costa Blanca the elongated, tooth-
A view back along the Bernia Ridge from its summit to the
encrusted skyline of the Bernia Ridge presents a much-admired backdrop to Penon de Ifach at Calpe. Photo: Mark Glaister
the flat, calm waters of the Mediterranean. The ridge itself gets its name from
its highest point at its inland extremity. However, the extent of the ridge can
actually be traced virtually all the way down to sea level. The most impressive
section of the ridge is the gently undulating 2km section that extends seaward
from the summit of the Bernia (1126m) and has become a beacon for climbers
and serious scramblers. In recent years it has gained classic status. The whole
of the section of ridge described here is at an altitude of around 1000m and
provides a fabulous, airy outing. Although for some the 'normal' route along the
ridge will be a little disappointing, as a number of the summits are bypassed via
easy passages. One short section of the ridge has a passage of 4+ although
this is easily aided on the closely spaced bolts. Route finding, both on the
approach and the descent from the ridge, and along its crest is relatively easy,
as the way is marked with painted dots at regularly intervals.

Conditions Senija
To Ondara
The ridge is exposed to the sun for most of the day and shade is difficult to
come by once on the ridge itself. The isolated nature of the ridge and its altitude
mean that it can attracted poor weather. Junction 63

Equipment Benissa
The length and technical difficulty of the ridge is such that both rockboots and
walking/approach shoes should be taken if the hardest section is to be climbed
free. A small rack of wires and cams is required to protect the climbing sections,
plus a couple of long slings may be useful on the aided section. The abseils are
no more than 25m.

Approach
Follow the A7 to junction 63 and exit here. Turn south and drive through
Benissa and turn right at a junction signed for Xalo/Jalon. Immediately take the
road on the left signed to the village of Los Pinos, follow this winding road uphill
for around approximately 7km to a left turn that leads to the parking at the start
E-15
of the approach walk next to a restaurant on the left. AP-7 N-332

Restaurant Bernia
and Parking La Empedrola

P
Col Lat: 38.40.17.00 N
Lon: 00.02.46.00 W

Bernia summit
Fort ruins
To Benidorm

About 2km

Costa Blanca Ridges  Version 1.0 - February 2010 Registered to Gareth Harding REF yyyyyyyy   6
Bernia Ridge
Bernia Ridge East Side
1 The Bernia Ridge. . . 3sc 4+ (A0)
(5 to 10 hours car-to-car)
The classic ridge of the Costa Blanca and a fine
introduction to the others in the area, with the benefit
of having only a short section of technical climbing.
Approach to the base of the ridge:- From the
parking area next to the restaurant, walk past the
front of the restaurant and follow a track/road along
the wooded slopes below the ridge to a font at some
rocks on the right. From the font, follow a path on the
right (yellow and white painted stripes) that climbs up
across scrub and scree to meet the rocky base of the
ridge at a round hole in the cliff. The hole goes right
through the ridge to the other side - a remarkable
Bernia summit (1126m) Descent on opposite feature. The path now gets a little steeper and ends in
side of the ridge an easy scramble to a col on the ridge and a breath-
East peak
taking view down to the coast.
Col
2000m. From this point onward the route described is
marked by numerous red painted dots on the rocks.
From the col, scramble easily along the crest and
then down left past a tricky and exposed drop
down over a hole in the ridge to a steeper and very
Hole through ridge
exposed section. Downclimb or abseil from a bolted
Restaurant abseil point to the continuation of the ridge. A further
and parking rocky section of ridge gains another abseil point.
Path leads off
A 20m abseil from here lands on some shelving,
track at font
vegetated ledges near a large bay. Scramble up a
Bernia Ridge West Side
Much of this section of
Bernia summit (1126m) the route is on the opposite
side of the ridge
Technical
section
Col Descent drops over ridge
The Fins
Remains of fort
Costa Blanca Ridges  Version 1.0 - February 2010
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
steep diagonal-weakness towards the crest of the
ridge from where a long section of scrambling ends
in a descent to a col with a distinct trio of vertical fins
on its opposite side. Walk up the slope next to the
ridge-side fin and locate a line of closely spaced bolts
on the smooth wall that lead up to its knife-edge top.
Climb the wall (4+) (or aid easily) to the knife-edge,
then hand traverse this left (bolts) to a stance at a
bolt. Steep and slightly loose rock above (2+) gains
another long section of ridge that once again ends
in a steep descent to a broad col. Ahead lies a long
climb, past a number of false summits, to the true
summit of the Bernia. Much of this final section is
taken via the right flank of the ridge. From the summit
descend the easy-angled ridge past a short section
with a hand-chain in place to where the ridge starts
to level out slightly and bends down to the right.
Keeping a close watch for the red dots, scramble left
over the ridge and drop down and back left on rock
and scree to a short scree-shoot. Descend the scree-
shoot and follow a path down to an old ruined fort.
Walk along the path from the fort to a low wide col
and take a good path that traverses the right side of a
steep valley, around a spur to a track that leads easily
back to the restaurant and parking.
Col at end
of approach
Exposed
downclimb East peak
Abseil
1
Hole through
base of rock
Registered to Gareth Harding REF yyyyyyyy   7
El Realet Ridge MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com

Sandwiched between the rock climbing mecca of

the Sella valley and the majestic Puig Campana
is a serrated ridge of marathon proportions, Els
Castellets. The ridge is composed of a multitude
of summits linked by dizzying, and at times difficult
knife-edge aretes. The traverse of the full ridge is
a multi-day excursion, whilst the initial, western
section of the ridge - El Realet Ridge - described
here is the most straightforward section and can
be accomplished in a winter’s day with access to
two vehicles. A simply breathtaking alpine-style
ridge on which all members of the party will need
to be comfortable moving on very exposed grade
4 ground, the level of seriousness often being the
same for leader and second.

Conditions
The ridge is exposed to the sun for most of the day
and shade is difficult to come by once on the ridge
itself.

Equipment
The length and technical difficulty of the ridge is
such that both rockboots and walking/approach
shoes should be taken. A small rack of wires and
cams is required to protect the climbing sections
plus a good selection of long slings. The abseils are
no more than 30m.

Approach
Directions to the parking at the start of the ridge:-
From the centre of Finestrat take the CV 758
towards Sella for 4.6km, just before the signpost
CV758 13km turn right up a hill and park on the
right.
Directions to the parking at the end of the ridge:-
From the centre of Finestrat, take the CV 758
towards Sella for 1.9km, to a junction with some
bins and post boxes. Turn right and follow this for
2.7km to another junction. Continue straight on for
1.1km to limited parking, taking care not to obstruct
any driveways.

The castellated pitches of the El Realet section of the Els Castellets ridge.
Climbers James Kauntze, Paul Roberts and Rich Mayfield. Photo: Mark Glaister

Costa Blanca Ridges  Version 1.0 - February 2010 Registered to Gareth Harding REF yyyyyyyy   8
El Realet Ridge
Pick up point
Lat: 38.35.42.00 N
Lon: 00.13.52.00 W
Puig Campana
1 El Realet Ridge. . 3tsc 4+
6 to 10 hours
Approach to the base of the ridge:- From the
roadside parking at the junction, follow the minor
road uphill for around 1km to a minor track on the
right (chain across it), next to a pylon. Walk up the
Chain across
track
minor track for 100m to a shallow col where the ridge
becomes obvious on the left. Strike uphill through
light brush to the base of the ridge. Follow the
narrowing and steepening arete (3 - red dots) to the
Lat: 38.34.43.00 N summit of El Realet One (548m). Continue along the
Lon: 00.14.59.00 W awesome knife-edge ridge (4) past the occasional
P bolt - very exposed - to a midway summit. From the
midway summit, scrambling along the ridge gains a
km13
short step down, or jump (3) to easier ground that
rises to the summit of El Realet Two (799m) - also
Sella marked on maps as Penya dels Castellets. From
the summit of El Realet Two, descend easily until a
Finestrat
bolted abseil station is encountered as the ground
starts to steepen. Abseil 30m to less steep ground
Benidorm and scramble down to a col. Continue along the
About 1 km
exposed, castellated ridge (3) to a bolted abseil
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
station. Abseil 20m to a col and then walk up the
broad ridge to the summit of El Realet Three.
The next section descends to a V-notch in the next
col, and is fairly complex so care is needed to find
the easiest way down. From the summit of El Realet
Three, retrace your steps back along the ridge for
70m to a white patch of gravel. Go down a ramp
leftwards a short distance to the start of a vegetated
'alley'. Don't go down the 'alley'. Instead, zig zag
down the vegetated face and pick up a vague path
that again heads leftwards. Follow the vague path
for c.100m and locate an abseil point on the small
ridge to the right (next to a pine tree). Make a 25m
abseil to ledges, and follow another vague path
past some orange dots to another abseil point, just
before the V-notch. Either downclimb to the V-notch
(4) or abseil to easy ground just below the V-notch.
Scramble down the path to easier ground and
terraces, before heading across terraces to a low
ridge on the right above a house. Follow the ridge to
the road.

El Realet 2 (799m) 30m abseil on

opposite side of ridge

Easy scramble to summit

with one step of 3 Retrace steps 70m El Realet 3

20m abseil

Knife edge ridge

Summit of El Realet 1
V notch

Castellated ridge 25m abseil

Follow red dots up 10m abseil

steepening ridge (3)

From Parking

Costa Blanca Ridges  Version 1.0 - February 2010 Registered to Gareth Harding REF yyyyyyyy   9
The Toix Ridge MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com

The Toix Ridge is well known as a sport climbing crag that From Calpe
features superb views out over the Med, simple access and a
sunny aspect. As a consequence, in the winter months virtu- N332
N-332
Entrance to
ally no day goes by without the climbs getting plenty of action Maryvilla
from those escaping the cold and wet crags of countries further No Access
south-bound
north. Even though the grading of the ridge is the equal to or la
y v il
higher than the others in this guidebook, it will probably be Turn around Mar
felt to be the easiest, as the ‘up’ climbing is conventional, and here

the ridge itself is straightforward and relatively short. The Toix

Ridge is a good one for getting into the swing of scrambling or
moving together over very exposed ground. The amble from
the car is far and away the shortest approach that could be
asked for, and is followed by four long and well-bolted pitches Lat: 38.38.12.00 N
of conventional climbing, eventually ending at a fantastic flat Lon: 00.00.41.00 E
ledge at the beginning of the ridge itself. From here, the ridge Toix Oeste
rises and falls, giving the impression of sitting on the wing of a
plane, as the view down alternates between the blue spots of A lot of
swimming pools and the roofs of villas and cars. Once the ridge building
work
peters out the start is quickly regained.
Mascarat

Conditions

P u e a ra t
Ma
The ridge is exposed to the sun for most of the day and shade

sc
blo
is difficult to come by once on the ridge itself.

Equipment
The technical difficulty of the ridge is such that rockboots will N332
N-332
be required and approach shoes will be useful for the descent,
although not absolutely essential. A very small rack of wires, About 500m
From Altea
long slings and cams is required to protect the ridge scrambling
sections plus 10 quickdraws for the bolted lower pitches.

Approach
The parking is within the Maryvilla complex. The Maryvilla’s
turn-off is well-signed on the N332 to the south of Calpe, just
north of the Mascarat Gorge (Note: entry is not allowed south
bound, continue a couple of hundred metres to where a lay-by
allows an about-face). Turn in to Maryvilla and follow signs for
Castellete de Calpe, and park at the end of the road.

At the top of the hard pitches that lead to the Toix Ridge proper. The Mascarat Gorge, The
Bernia and Puig Campana are visible in the distance. Photo: Mark Glaister

Costa Blanca Ridges  Version 1.0 - February 2010 Registered to Gareth Harding REF yyyyyyyy   10
The Toix Ridge
1 The Toix Ridge. . . . . 2tc 5
3 to 4 hours
A fun and straightforward ridge is preceded by a
long sport route. A good route to get into the swing of
scrambling and moving together over exposed ground
whilst also getting in a bit of conventional 'up' climbing.
The views, although dominated by the various coastal
resorts, are spectacular.
Approach to the base of the ridge:- From the
parking area walk to the cliff. Follow a path below the
face until it begins to climb up. After around 50m, a
small bay with a tree up against the face marks the
starting point of the climb. The climb starts at a small
rib proud of the cliff, just right of the tree, and has the
name of the line CILBER written on the rock in red.
600m. Step left and move up easily to the first bolt
at 9m. Climb directly up to a stance where the wall
Big flat ledge
Steep corner
Name of route
written on rock
Bay with tree
From Parking
Costa Blanca Ridges  Version 1.0 - February 2010
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
steepens (4+, 40m). Follow the thin seam/crack
above, passing a short smooth-section at 6m to easier
ground above. Head leftwards up easy-angled rock to
a double bolt belay (5, 50m). Pull up through a short
steep section and then move leftwards to ledges (wire
thread). Continue leftwards in the same line to a bolt
belay below a vertical corner crack (4, 30m). Climb the
steep crack and continue in a similar line past double
bolts to ledges on the right. Climb a corner to a fine
stance and belay on a flat ledge (5, 45m). Walk along
the ridge to a steep wall with a tree. Pass the steep wall
section by scrambling down to the right and then back up
to the ridge (this steep section can be taken direct at 5).
The ridge now becomes steeper and narrower. Scramble
up the crest to the summit. More scrambling along the
ridge leads to TV masts and the start of an easy path
that leads back to the start of the route.
Summit
Pass the steep
pinnacle on the right Narrow section
Hole in
ridge
TV mast
Registered to Gareth Harding REF yyyyyyyy   11
Espolon Central MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com

The Puig Campana is a soaring, tapering bulk of buttresses

and pinnacles that provide a seemingly endless supply of lines
Puig Campana
to its notched, western summit that is easily spotted from the
summit surrounding coast and lowlands. The Espolón Central is the
most distinct ridge and is truly a route for all, its difficulties
Espolón Central
being within the grasp of most parties. An ascent in the depths
2km
Big
of the British winter will remain long in the memory, however
from
Finestrat Plateau Summit more than a few climbers have under-estimated the time
Path
needed for the ascent and descent of the mountain in daylight
and have paid the uncomfortable price of benightment and
White
Bridge
House embarrassment.

Lat: 38.34.45.00 N Conditions

Lon: 00.12.36.00 W
The Puig Campana is climbable throughout the year and any
Font del Moli clear and reasonably calm day should provide perfect condi-
Bar (water spring)
tions, but teams should be prepared for extremely hot condi-
To La Nucia tions in the summer and chillier short days in the winter.
and Polop
(El Ponoch)
Equipment
Finestrat The technical difficulty of the ridge is such that rockboots
From
To Sella Terra will be required and approach shoes will be needed for the
Mitica descent. A rack of wires, 10 quickdraws, long slings and cams
junction
are required to protect the ridge climbing. A headtorch for each
About 1km member of the party is recommended as the descent would be
difficult and dangerous to negotiate in the dark without one.

Approach
Puig Campana is approached from the village of Finestrat.
From the North or South - Leave the A7 at junction 65 or
65a and follow signs for Terra Mitica and then for Finestrat.
Once there follow the road round the village to a T-junction.
Turn right here (left leads to Sella) then left and drive towards
the mountain on the road to the popular water source of the
‘Font de Moli’. Continue along the surfaced road, up the hill,
around a series of bends and over a bridge. There are usually
cars parked here as this is the most popular point to start your
walk up to the summit. For climbing, it is quicker to continue for
about 1km to a short track on the right-hand side of the road.
Park here and follow a path up the hill for 200m. Just after
some pine trees on the right, and by a cairn, is a small track
leading off to the right.
For Espolón Central - Follow the small path until it is possible
to scramble up onto a big plateau. A well-marked path leads
from here up under the face.

Michelle Mee on the 10th pitch with the expansive backdrop-view

so typical of those on the ridge. Photo: Mark Glaister

Costa Blanca Ridges  Version 1.0 - February 2010 Registered to Gareth Harding REF yyyyyyyy   12
Espolón Cantrale
1 Espolón Central Directa.3sc Take this with interest to easier ground and a large
4+ (4 to 8 hours, plus 2 hours for the descent)
A fantastic ridge that looks much harder than it really
is when viewed from afar. The climbing is sustained
but well protected. The descent requires care but
is straightforward if the correct line is taken. Take a
The Notch
headtorch as benightments are common!
Approach to the base of the climb:- Follow the
small path until it is possible to scramble up onto a
big plateau. A well-marked path leads from here up
under the face. At the top of the scree slope, locate
a painted name on the rock ‘Esp Central’ (there are
2 painted names about 30m apart. The right-hand is
the correct one to use’) This painted name indicates
the direct start.
Large painted red-dot on For the Quick Start, walk left under the face and at a
rock marks the short wall, marked by a red dot, scramble easily up
start of the descent 6m to easy ground. Continue for about 30m and then
up more easy ground to beneath a corner with a pine
tree at its top and belay here.
1) 3+, 30m. From the right-hand painted name move
up easily, to the left of a very smooth brown shield of
rock, then belay beneath a long corner.
2) 4+, 30m. Climb up the corner, then move up and
left onto the arête. Climb the arête (pegs) to a belay at
a bolt and peg.
3) 3, 30m. Continue directly up grooves to a big ledge
and trees on the left (this ledge is the point at which
Large ledge and the Quick Start joins the route).
a good lunch spot
4) 3+, 40m. Move right a few metres from the big ledge
and climb awkwardly up past a sapling at 3m. Continue
up corners and cracks and move right to a belay.
5) 1, 12m. Walk/scramble right to belay on the ridge
next to a small sapling sticking out horizontally from
the rock.
6) 4-, 20m. Climb the face of the arête to a ledge, and
a peg belay just up and right of a large tree.
Short easy scramble up 7) 4, 45m. Follow the cracks and arête to a good ledge.
wall marked by red dot
Easy scramble to belay
at the base of corner
below pine tree
Large ledge
with trees
Approach path
Quick Start
Costa Blanca Ridges  Version 1.0 - February 2010
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
8) 4+, 40m. Traverse left to the foot of a crack/groove.
ledge and tree. A good spot for lunch.
9) 1, 8m. Move up and right a short distance to belay
beneath the steep, crack-seamed wall.
10) 4+, 30m. Climb leftwards and then back right
via a tricky move up a shallow groove to finish on a
good ledge at the top of the wall. Bolt belays a short
distance back. (The wall can be climbed direct at 5).
11) 4, 50m. Move along the ridge. Where it steepens,
climb the obvious corner crack left of a blank wall (not
the small one with tat in situ). Continue up the ridge
to a spectacular stance. Bolt belays.
12) 4, 30m. Climb steeply direct up the ridge to an
easing beneath a zig-zag crack. Climb the crack
using hidden jugs to another airy perch. Bolt belays.
13) 4, 40m. Climb the awkward deep-groove on the
right that soon eases and the angle of the ridge drops
back. Above is a large, red circle that marks the start of
the descent line. Climb up to belay at a tree just beneath
the red circle. Ropes can be coiled here, but keep your
harness on, and a long sling and krabs handy for use
on the in situ wire cables on the descent.
The Quick Start
1) 2+ 50m. Climb up the corner to the pine tree and
then head off rightwards to easy ground and walk along
the wide ledge to belay at the end of Directa pitch 3.
Descent:- From the red painted circle at the end of
Pitch 13 go right and locate the steep descent that is
protected by wire cables fixed to bolts. Follow wires
and red dots down and right past a spur and then
carefully into the main scree gully that is the walkers’
path to and from the summit. Descend the scree
gully and pick up small tracks that lead back under
the face to the start.
Line of the descent
via cables and red dots
Registered to Gareth Harding REF yyyyyyyy   13