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CHOOSING THE RIGHT NEEDLE UNDERSTANDING THE COLOUR CODE
The quality and choice of needle have a signifi- In order to help identify the needle size and needle
cant influence on the quality of the sewing and type, certain BERNINA needles have a colour code.
embroidery results. The first colour shows the application and the second
colour shows the needle size.
1. Determine the needle type, based on the material
Needle type Needle size
and application (first coloured band).
(fabric/application) (fabric/thread)
2. Select the appropriate thread. The thickness of
NM SIZE
the thread determines the size of the eye and Universal
therefore the needle size (second coloured band). 120 19
Stretch
110 18
Jersey / Embroidery
100 16
Information on the lid of the needle box Jeans
90 14
Leather
80 12
Microtex
Needle size 75 11
Quilting
Open the lid so it is
70 10
possible to see the size Embroidery
60 8
Metafil
Needle point
Topstitch
Fine Fabrics
Needle designation
Hemstitch
Needle type
Double Eye
Overlock
Opening direction
NEEDLE POINTS AND EYE SHAPES THE RIGHT NEEDLE/THREAD COMBINATION
The chart shows the most important types of needle, Needle/thread ratio
broken down according to their needle point and
eye shapes. The point is the first part of
the needle to penetrate the
Needle type Needle eye Needle point material. The right needle
point is essential for a good
H UNIVERSAL sewing result.
During sewing and
H-S embroidery, the thread
slides through the eye of
H SUK the needle several times at
high speed.
H-E It is therefore important to
choose the right needle/
H METAFIL thread ratio: the thread
should pass smoothly and
H-J snugly through the eye of
the needle.
H-Q For fine fabrics, it is recommended to use a straight
stitch needle plate and a straight-stitch foot.
H-LR
UNIVERSAL NEEDLE STRETCH NEEDLE
THE CHOICE OF NEEDLE IS BASED ON THE MATERIAL A jour knitted goods – JERSEY / EMBROIDERY
AND THE APPLICATION
A NEEDLE NM 60 to NM 90
Artificial fur (funfur) – JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE
Below is an alphabetical list of various materials and or UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 100
applications, along with the corresponding needle types Artificial leather – LEATHER NEEDLE NM 90,
recommended by BERNINA. NM 100 or JEANS NEEDLE NM 80 to NM 110
The information in this brochure should be regarded as
general guidance only. Always test the needle beforehand
on a scrap of material.
B Bed-linen, jersey – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90
Bed-linen, woven – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70
to NM 100
Belseta – MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 90
JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE JEANS NEEDLE
Also available as a
TWIN NEEDLE together with
a UNIVERSAL NEEDLE.
Q Quilting – QUILTING NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 Shirts with elastic threads – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75
Silk jersey – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75
Reversible – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or JERSEY / EMBROI- Single jersey – STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75
R DERY NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 100 Suits – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 80, NM 90
Sweatshirt fabrics – JERSEY / EMBROIDERY NEEDLE
S Seersucker – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 90
Sequined material – MICROTEX NEEDLE NM 70 to NM
NM 70 to NM 90 or JERSEY / EMBROIDERY PRO NEEDLE
NM 80, NM 90
90 or STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90
Serging (overlock seams) – There are different needle
systems, see machine manufacturer‘s information
Shirts – UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70, NM 80
UNIVERSAL TWIN NEEDLE STRETCH TWIN NEEDLE
• System • System
130/705 H ZWIHO 100/2,5 130/705 H DRI 80/3,0
• Needle distance NE 2.5 mm • Needle distance NE 3.0
• Needle size NM 100 mm
• Needle size NM 80
1 UNIVERSAL NEEDLE
together with 1 HEMSTITCH
NEEDLE