How to store and maintain

your watch
Whether it’s a vintage Omega or a rare Patek Philippe, these are
the 10 key tips for keeping your timepiece in top condition

1. Get storage right

Humidity and dust are the main enemies of watches,
so you should keep them in dry, temperature-
controlled environments. Humidity can get into
watches, and that moisture can destroy dials and
cause movements to rust.

Watches should be stored away from light, although

some unusual ageing can actually increase their value.
Light can sometimes fade black dials on vintage
watches to a ‘tropical’ or ‘chocolate’ brown; depending
on the brand, model and aesthetics, these ‘tropical’
dials can actually be worth significantly more than
black ones.

2. Insure valuable pieces

Owners should properly insure their valuables —
unfortunately, because they are small, portable, and
fairly liquid assets, watches are often targets for theft.
With this in mind, many people store their collections
in safes or in bank vaults.

Maintain a separate record of serial numbers and

photographs of your watches that you can pass on to
the authorities and your insurance agencies should
they be stolen. In many cases, you can submit the
police reports of watch thefts directly to the watch
companies, so if your timepiece ever comes back to
them for service, they can return it to you.
There are also websites and forums where you can
post information on a stolen watch, with any serial
numbers. Potential purchasers who search for the
watch’s serial number will be able to discover if it has
been stolen.

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Patek Philippe serial number. A

Patek Philippe. A unique platinum unique platinum chronometer
chronometer wristwatch with wristwatch with guillaume balance,
guillaume balance, bulletin bulletin d’observatoire, additional
d’observatoire, additional diamond-set diamond-set dial and platinum
dial and platinum bracelet. Sold for bracelet. Sold for CHF3,779,000
CHF3,779,000 ($3,992,858) on 12 ($3,992,858) on 12 November 2012 at
November 2012 at Christie’s in Geneva Christie’s in Geneva

3. Should you wear valuable

watches?
Whether vintage or new, collectors often enjoy
wearing their watches — though only under the right
circumstances. It depends on the age of the watch—
those from the Thirties and Forties can be more
sensitive to humidity, depending on the case design,
while often with watches from the Sixties onwards you
don’t have to worry quite as much.

Water-resistant watches with screw-down case backs

tend to hold up better over time, keeping out water,
oil, and dust, while vintage chronographs (watches
with an integrated stopwatch function) with square
pushers are more prone to letting humidity in — more
care should be taken when wearing them.
 %

Rolex. A highly charismatic and extremely rare stainless

steel automatic sweep centre seconds wristwatch with
bracelet and brown-colored ‘’Four-Liner’’ dial, signed
Rolex, oyster perpetual, 200m=660ft, submariner, ref.
6538, case no. 449’170, circa 1959. 37 mm diam. Sold for
CHF 519,750 on 13 May 2013 at Christie’s in Geneva

4. Service regularly
You should have your watch serviced every few years
by a reputable specialist. In general, experts suggest
having frequently-worn watches serviced every three
to five years. If you store a watch properly and only
wear it a couple of times a year, it might not need to be
serviced quite so regularly. More complex devices,
such as chronographs and minute repeaters, may
require more frequent and detailed attention if used
regularly.

Many manufacturers have watches shipped back to

them for in-house services, though you may prefer to
seek out a watchmaker closer to you who is endorsed
by the brand. Rolex certifies technicians who have
gone through its training courses. Finding a good
watchmaker is like finding a good tailor — though far
more valuable!

5. Communicate with your

watchmaker
Communicating with one’s watchmaker or the
company servicing a watch is critical. If you do not
want parts replaced or the watch polished, you
absolutely must tell them. Even if you do, mistakes can
happen where watches were accidentally polished or
had other aesthetic alterations done that significantly
damaged the piece’s value and could not be undone.

Having irreparable mistakes made during the service

of a watch can bring a collector to tears, which is why a
trusted relationship with a watchmaker is essential.
Collectors can be more protective of their
relationships with a trusted watchmaker than parents
with a trusted nanny!
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Omega. A very fine and extremely rare Audemars Piguet. An extremely fine,
stainless steel chronograph
wristwatch, signed omega,
speedmaster, ‘broad arrow’ model, ref.
2915-1, movement no. 15’499’938,
manufactured in 1957, case: stainless
steel, metal dust cover, screw back, two
round buttons in the band, 38mm diam.
Sold for $324,500 on 13 June 2018 at
Christie’s in New York
attractive and possibly unique 18K
white gold square full calendar
wristwatch with moon phases and
movable lugs, signed Audemars
Piguet & Co., retailed by Bittmann, St.
Moritz, No. 34’568, manufactured in
1926. Dimensions: 25.5 mm wide, 40
mm overall length. Sold for CHF 171,250
on 15 May 2017 at Christie’s in Geneva

6. Is professional polishing a
good idea?
If you are keen to maintain the value of your watch, as
well as choosing a suitable watchmaker to service your
piece, you need to tell them exactly what you want
doing to it. Originality is paramount, but some
professionals will have a sense of a watch’s legacy and
want to restore its original appearance.

Restoring a watch to how it used to look can reduce

the value of a timepiece, especially if its exterior case is
polished, luminous material on a dial is repainted, or
original parts are replaced. In watch terminology, the
case is the outside of a watch, the area naturally most
liable to being affected by polishing.

Instead, it is important to maintain a watch’s original

finish, without worrying unduly about nicks and
scratches. Watchmakers and technicians often want to
polish a watch so it looks brand new, but this can alter
the metal’s original finish, remove metal, and alter the
original bevels on the edges of the case, which can
damage a watch’s value and interest to collectors.
Furthermore, after polishing, the lugs can become
uneven — one thinner than the other — which,
aesthetically, is not as appealing.

7. Maintain dials and bezels

Typically most of the value of a watch resides in the
dial, so it is vital these remain original if possible.
Watches from the 1930s to the 1950s often came with
dials painted with radium for luminosity — if they are
shipped back to Switzerland for service, the company
may not be able to legally re-export them. With certain
brands, the only way to get your watch back with the
original radium on the dial is to travel to Switzerland
and pick it up yourself. Removing the radium material
can significantly reduce a watch’s value; the same
applies to replacing bezels and crowns.

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Rolex. A very rare and extremely

attractive stainless steel chronograph
wristwatch with Paul Newman Mark 1
panda dial and bracelet, signed Rolex,
oyster cosmograph, “Paul Newman”
model, ref. 6263, case no. 2’197’828,
circa 1969. Case: Stainless steel, black
bezel, engraved screw back, two screw
down buttons in the band, inside case
back stamped 6239 and C RS, 37.5mm
diam. Sold for $732,500 on 13 June
2018 at Christie’s in New York
Patek Philippe. A very fine and rare
18k pink gold chronograph wristwatch
with pink dial, signed Patek Philippe &
Co, Genève, ref 130, movement no.
863’208, case no. 632’841,
manufactured in 1943. Case: 18k pink
gold, snap on back, two rectangular
buttons in the band, 33mm diam. Sold
for $81,250 on 13 June 2018 at
Christie’s in New York

8. Replace crystals with care

In terms of aesthetic value, crystals are generally
among the least important parts of a watch. It is always
a plus to have the original crystals but, depending on
the watch, collectors can be forgiving about
replacements as, when original crystals are scratched
or cracked, they can significantly harm a watch’s
aesthetics.

The key exceptions to this rule are watches with

crystals that are signed, or those for which adequate
replacements are unobtainable. Some watches from
the Sixties, such as Omegas and Universals, feature
crystals with logos at their centre, which collectors
prefer to retain. Similarly, some vintage watches, such
as Panerais, feature large, domed crystals which are no
longer made in the same way, or unusual, non-circular
crystals which can be impossible to replace. Having an
original, correct crystal, can make all the difference.

At the very least, if you do replace a crystal on a watch,

ask the watchmaker or company carrying out the
refurbishment to return your timepiece with the
original crystal, so that it can be included with the
piece if you ever wish to sell or trade in the future.

9. Where possible, keep original

bracelets
Original bracelets are of increasing value to collectors.
Sometimes they provide important aesthetic features,
such as those made for Patek Philippe, Rolex and other
brands by Gay Frères. More and more collectors want
to have their watches with the authentic bracelets,
both for how they look and how they wear.

It is extremely rare to find an appropriate strap on a

vintage watch, since they are typically worn out and
replaced over time — but they are always a plus for
collectors.

10. Look after movements

Movements are the engine of a watch and, as such,
need to be kept in good working order; this is where
trusted watchmakers earn their money. If the parts of a
watch come into contact with dust or moisture, or lose
their lubrication, they may become damaged.
 %

Patek Philippe. An extremely rare and early 18k gold

cushion-shaped minute repeating wristwatch with breguet
numerals, signed Patek Philippe & Co., Genève,
Switzerland.Manufactured in 1930. Case: 18k gold cushion-
shaped, snap on back, slide in the band, 29mm width. Sold for
$708,500 on 13 June 2018 at Christie’s in New York

The number of individual components in a movement

can run into the hundreds. Skilled technicians are able
to fully disassemble a watch, cleaning and re-
lubricating parts as needed. Watchmakers can then
reassemble the piece and adjust its timing. People
want to keep their watches running as cleanly and as
accurately as possible, and reputable watchmakers
have the tools to achieve that.

28 June 2018

WATCHES |
COLLECTING
GUIDE
Rolex. A fine and
rare stainless
steel automatic
wristwatch with
sweep centre
seconds, date,
bracelet, original
guarantee and
box, signed
Rolex, oyster
perpetual date,
sea-dweller,
submariner 2000
from 1977. 39.5
mm diam. Sold
for CHF 32,500
on 12 November
2012 at Christie’s
in Geneva