I.

Purpose: study on Electrical Installation for Building

We have two types of apparatus like Ammeter for measure current and
Voltmeter for measure voltage. It work by different function, that we called
Permanent Magnet Moving Coil (PMMC) and Moving Iron (MI). For
measurement, it is not enough so we use ohmmeter that we can measure
resistance by the way we use counter energy for count energy that is consumed by
the appliance.

II. Electrical system

We have three-phase system:
 Line voltage (the voltage between line A and line B or between line B and
line C or between line C and line A)
 Phase voltage (the voltage between line and neutral)

III. Usages:

 Ammeter
 Setting an in-series ammeter and breaking the circuit

1. Set the ammeter current type and

range
If your ammeter divides the range of current into settings, choose the
highest setting. Next, you should select the kind of current you’ll be
measuring: AC (Alternating Current) or DC (Direct Current).
o Choosing the highest setting on your ammeter from the outset will
prevent you from blowing the meter’s internal fuse if the amperage
is too high.
o Some can alternate between both. Check the power supply manual
or label to determine its current type.
2. Test the internal fuse of your ammeter
This will only take you a second and it will save you some time wasted
on false readings. Your ammeter should have two leads: an input (+)
and an output (-). Hold these together with your ammeter on. If the
resistance rating is low, your fuse is good.
o The resistance reading of your ammeter will be indicated on a
display on the front of the meter. You may have to adjust the
power range before it can read the low level of a working fuse.
o Most ammeter fuses can be easily replaced or reset, though this
process will vary according to your brand and model. Consult your
ammeter’s manual to learn how to fix blown fuses.
o If you adjusted the power range lower to check the fuse, reset the
range to its maximum to prevent the fuse from blowing when
taking the actual amperage.
 3. Break the circuit
But before you do, make sure the power is off and all batteries are
removed to prevent getting zapped. Now you need to create a break in
the wiring between the negative ( - ) terminal of the power source and
the power input for the item receiving power.
o The ammeter will be tied into the circuit at this break so that
electricity passes through the meter on its way to the item being
powered, allowing the meter to take a reading.
o You may be able to “break” your circuit by loosening the fasteners
connecting wiring to the power source’s negative ( - ) terminal or
at the power input for the item receiving power.
 Typing in an in-series ammeter to take a reading
1. Connect the ammeter leads to the circuit
This process will depend on your model of ammeter. Essentially, the
negative ( - ) end of your ammeter will connect to the power source
side of the broken circuit. The positive end (+) will connect to the
opposite side, so that the ammeter bridges the break.
o Most ammeters use color-coding to indicate positive and negative
ends of a circuit. This may be different from country to country,
but in many cases, red will represent positive and black negative.
o Your ammeter may have clamps that allow it to easily attach to
wires. Another common model uses metal probes around which
wire is wrapped or fastened.
o You can also simply hold the leads of your ammeter to the bare
wires of the broken circuit. Prevent exposed wire from touching
anything while the circuit is engaged
 2. Restore power to the circuit and take the reading
o Depending on the strength of the circuit you’re testing, you may
need to reduce the range for the power gauge until the display
registers activity.
o Bare wires shouldn’t touch anything while the circuit is powered.
Doing so could cause the circuit to short, an electrical fire, or a
false reading.

3. Cut power and return the circuit to normal

Now that you have your reading, you can turn off power to the circuit
once again. Remove the ammeter and refasten the circuit’s wiring or
splice back together wire that’s been cut.

 Voltmeter
 Setting the Device
1. Set your device to measure voltage
Most voltage-measuring devices are actually mustimeters, which can
test several aspects of electrical circuits. If your device has a knob with
several settings, set it to one of the following
o To test the voltage of an AC circuit, set the knob to V~, ACV, or
VAC. Household circuits are almost always Alternating Current.
o To test voltage of a DC circuit, choose V–, V---, DCV, or VDC.
Batteries and portable electronics are typically Direct Current.

2. Choose a
range above the max expected voltage
Most voltmeters have several options marked for voltage, so you can
change your meter's sensitivity to get a good measurement and avoid
damaging the device. If your digital device has no range option, it is
"auto ranging" and should detect the correct range itself.

3. Insert the test leads

 Your voltmeter should come with one black and one red test leads.
Each has a metal probe on one end, and a metal jack on the other that
slots into the holes in your voltmeter. Plug in the jacks as follows:
o The black jack always plugs into the hole labelled "COM."
o When measuring voltage, plug the red jack into the hole labeled V
(among other symbols). If there is no V, choose the hole with the
lowest number, or mA.

 Measuring Voltage
1. Hold the probes safely
2. Touch the black test lead to one part of the circuit
3. Touch the red test lead to another point on the circuit
4. Read the voltmeter
 Reading an Analog voltmeter
1. Find a voltage scale on the needle’s dial
2. Estimate the needle’s position based on nearby numbers.
3. Divide your answer if using a different scale

For example, if your voltmeter is set to 10V but you are reading off a
50V scale, calculate 50 ÷ 10 = 5. If the needle is pointing at 35V, your
actual result is 35 ÷ 5 = 7V

 Ohmmeter
 Disconnect completely and/or turn off all power to the circuit you are
testing.
 Select an ohmmeter suitable for your project.
 Check the ohmmeter to see if it has a battery.
 Plug your test leads into the sockets on your
meter
 Zero your meter if it is equipped with a
zeroing dial
 Choose the circuit or electrical device you
want to test
 Touch one probe to one end of a circuit, the
other to the other end, and note the reading
on the instrument
 Isolate components in a hard wired electrical
circuit to test them individually
 Read the resistance of a run of wire or a branch of a circuit to see if there
is a short or open break in the circuit.
 Turn the ohmmeter off when not in use
 Electric Meter
  The electromechanical meter is by far the most common electric meter in
use today. These meters are usually round in shape and have a glass cover
over the face. The meter works by counting the number of turns by the
aluminium disk. The disk rotates at a rate conversant to the use of the
electricity.
 The aluminium disk has two coils that make it spin. One coil creates a
magnetic flux to read the voltage (or the electric potential energy) per unit.
The other coil reads the current or the flow of energy that is produced.
Using a lag coil, the field of energy is delayed by 90 degrees. This causes
eddy currents in the disk, which force it to move in conjunction with the
voltage and current. There is a magnet that produces an opposing force
that is equal to the rate of the disk. The balances between the two opposing
forces cause the disk to spin at a rate that equals the amount of electricity
that is being used. The spinning disk then drives a mechanism that counts
the revolutions over an amount of time.

 How to connect all appliances like three phase and single phase
electrical equipment

The alternating electric current that supplies our home can be provided via
different types of connection: single-phase connection (2 wires) and three-
phase connection (3 or 4 wires). Each type of connection has its advantages.
With a single-phase system it is easier to balance the electrical loads of the
network. A three-phase connection on the other hand, is more suited to the
consumption of a building that includes powerful machines (the premises of a
self-employed contractor, for example) or an elevator for which a three-phase
system is needed. It can, in fact, carry three times as much power.

 Single-phase connection: in single-phase connection, two wires come into

your electrical service panel, a black or red ‘live’ wire and a bleu ‘neutral’
wire. A voltage difference of 230 v separates these two wires.
  Three-phase connection: in three-phase connection, 3 or 4 wires come into
your electrical service panel, according to what your electrician was able
to install with the available utility network.
 Three ‘live’ wires: black, red, brown or grey
 A blue ‘neutral’ wire
Most of the time, a voltage difference of 230 V separates each live wire
from the neutral, while there is a voltage difference of 400 V between two
live wires. This makes it possible to supply both the domestic cables with
230 V and machines requiring 400 V (a car charger for example).
Note that some homes are supplied with three-phase 3 x 230 V. A voltage
of 230 V separates each live wire and there is no neutral wire.

IV. Conclusion
A mong doing this research, I obtain a lot of knowledge from it. I know how
to use ammeter, voltmeter, ohmmeter, and especially the operating of electric
meter. Moreover, I can definite what is single-phase connection and what is
three-phase connection.

V. References
1) https://www.energuide.be/en/questions-answers/what-is-meant-by-single-
phase-or-three-phase-connection/1933/
2) https://www.wikihow.com/Use-an-Ohmmeter
3) https://m.wikihow.com/Use-a-Voltmeter
4) https://www.wikihow.com/Use-an-Ammeter