Site Construction Methodology Gypsum Boa

Site Construction Methodology
Gypsum Board Installation to Ceiling
Steel Framing Installation Actual Site Photos- Installation
Source: http://www.boral.com.au/brochures/ordering/PDF Actual Site Photo
Fixing and Suspension Component Gypsum Board Installed to Furring
Source: http://www.boral.com.au/brochures/ordering/PDF Source: http://www.boral.com.au/brochures/ordering/PDF

CeilingSystems.pdf
I. Purpose of the Method of Statement

The purpose of this Method Statement is to describe the steps involved in gypsum board installation to ceiling in
accordance with approved shop drawings, ensuring safety, perfection and durability. In which, there two types
of board to be install, the Water Moist Resistant for T&B ceiling installation and the ordinary gypsum board as
the interior ceiling board up.
II. Description of Work

a. The work includes covering of ceiling, bulkhead, recess and other design specified in the plan as to cover
the ceiling with the desired dimension, elevations and levelness all in accordance with the shop drawings.
b. Standard accessories required in gypsum ceiling include the required steel furring, c-channels, and the
carrying rod that will fasten to the slab. With enough black screw to tighten the gypsum board it to the steel
framing lay according t the layout specified.
III. Delivery, Storage and Handling

a. To reduce the risk of damage, plasterboard should be delivered to site just prior to installation. During
handling and storage, sheets should be carried in an ‘upright’ position with particular care taken to protect
the edges.
b. Plasterboard should be stored in neat, flat stacks off the ground/floor in a dry covered area. This will prevent
sagging and minimize damage to board edges and surfaces.
IV. Installation
a. Prior to installing plasterboard, a building should be thoroughly checked to ensure that the framing is plumb,
level and square other trades have finished their ‘rough-ins’.
b. The spacing of studs, joists or battens takes into account the spacing required by the linings given in the
Frame Spacing table. When the installation is completed, the plasterboard will comply with the required
level of finish.
c. Prior to installing plasterboard, a building should be thoroughly checked to ensure that the framing is plumb,
d. The spacing of studs, joists or battens takes into account the spacing required by the linings given in the
level of finish.
e. Before fixing plasterboard to steel framing, check that the framing has been assembled and erected in
accordance with manufacturer’s instructions. All contact surfaces of the steel frame are dry, clean and free
from foreign materials such as oil, grease and dirt.
f. Steel furring channels are fixed at right angles to the underside of joists by means of clips or fasteners.
Anchor clips are used to fix steel furring to a concrete slab ceiling. Furring channels should be spaced
according to the sheet thickness given in the Frame Spacing.
g. Carefully plan the installation. Sheets should be set out to ensure best coverage and to minimize butt joints
and waste. Provide control joints in walls and ceilings at: – maximum 12m intervals in both directions – at
every change of material – over control joints in the substrate – at every change of substrate material.
h. Plasterboard should be fixed to the substrate using one of the following systems: Combination adhesive and
fastener. Screw fixed only. Nail fixed only.
i. A variety of trims exist for finishing corners, edges and joints of plasterboard to create neat sharp lines,
minimize cracking and to offer a higher level of impact resistance. Trims may be fixed with nails, staples or
with cornice adhesive and then stopped and finished with the normal 3-coat system.
V. Supervision
Installation is carried out by the skilled and experienced installer who has expertise in board installation finishing.
They are assisted by unskilled laborers. Their work is in turn supervised by experienced Foremen. Site Engineer/
Architects will be available for co-ordination with other sub-contractors and Main Contractor and also to look
into the technical aspects.
VI. Fixing Materials Used
a. Steel Framing, Wall angles, C-Channel, Carrying Rod, Connecting Clip, Blind Rivets to connect steel to steel
furring.
b. Black screw to connect gypsum board and steel framing.
c. Shadow Line by KUS, as the termination between wall and ceiling.
d. Gypsum Putty and Wire mesh tape for the control joint in each and every board laid.
VII. Machinery and Tools to be Used

a. Screw Gun. (Makita or any other similar brand)
b. Iron Scissor Cutter for furring
c. Tool box containing spirit level, measuring tape, water level, right angle, plump. Etc.
VIII. Safety Procedures

a. All standard Health, Safety & Environment norms will be adhered to strictly.
b. All the workmen will wear overalls, safety shoes, goggles, hand gloves and helmets. Adequate lighting and
ventilation will be ensured during installation.
c. It will be ensured that machinery and tools used are safe and always in good condition.
d. Markings will be made on the wall by setting plumb to determine the exact locations
IX. General
a. The Sub-Contractor reserves the right to amend the method from time to time in consultation with the Main
Contractor, depending upon the specific site conditions.
Source: http://www.boral.com.au/brochures/ordering/PDF/04686_T_InstMan_Reprint_Oct09.pdf
Gypsum Board Installation to Wall (Drywall & Partitions)
Drywall Partition with RockWool Insulation Installation
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gypsum+board+method+of+installation+ceiling
Sectional Detail Actual Site Photo
Source: http://www.boral.com.au/brochures/ordering/PDF/ Actual Site Photo

Ceiling Systems

The rationale of this Method Statement is to describe the steps involved in gypsum board installation to wall as
drywall and partition all in accordance with approved shop drawings, ensuring safety, perfection and
durability.

a. The work includes covering of wall partition and drywall as well as false columns and other design specified
in the plan as to cover the ceiling with the desired dimension, elevations and levelness all in accordance
with the shop drawings.
b. Standard accessories required in gypsum wall include the required wall studs and blind rivets that will fasten
to the concrete wall or bare wall. With enough black screw to tighten the gypsum board to the steel
framing lay according t the layout specified.

a. To reduce the risk of damage, plasterboard should be delivered to site just prior to installation. During
handling and storage, sheets should be carried in an ‘upright’ position with particular care taken to protect
the edges.
b. Plasterboard should be stored in neat, flat stacks off the ground/floor in a dry covered area. This will prevent
sagging and minimize damage to board edges and surfaces.
IV. Installation
a. Prior to installing plasterboard, a building should be thoroughly checked to ensure that the framing is plumb,
b. The spacing of studs, joists or battens takes into account the spacing required by the linings given in the
level of finish.
c. Prior to installing plasterboard, a building should be thoroughly checked to ensure that the framing is plumb,
d. The spacing of studs, joists or battens takes into account the spacing required by the linings given in the
level of finish.
e. Before fixing plasterboard to steel framing, check that the framing has been assembled and erected in
accordance with manufacturer’s instructions. All contact surfaces of the steel frame are dry, clean and free
from foreign materials such as oil, grease and dirt.
f. Steel furring channels are fixed at right angles to the underside of joists by means of clips or fasteners.
Anchor clips are used to fix steel furring to a concrete slab ceiling. Furring channels should be spaced
according to the sheet thickness given in the Frame Spacing.
Carefully plan the installation. Sheets should be set out to ensure best coverage and to minimize butt joints
and waste. Plasterboard is generally applied horizontally in residential construction and is necessary if a
Level of Finish of 3, 4, or 5 is required. However, sheeting may be fixed vertically if it is to cover the whole
wall.
g. Provide control joints in walls and ceilings at: – maximum 12m intervals in both directions – at every change
of material – over control joints in the substrate – at every change of substrate material.
h. Plasterboard should be fixed to the substrate using one of the following systems: Combination adhesive and
fastener. Screw fixed only. Nail fixed only.
i. A variety of trims exist for finishing corners, edges and joints of plasterboard to create neat sharp lines,
minimize cracking and to offer a higher level of impact resistance. Trims may be fixed with nails, staples or
with cornice adhesive and then stopped and finished with the normal 3-coat system. A shadow line effect is
required such as: – plasterboard and masonry wall junctions – ceiling and wall junctions – door and window
jambs.
V. Supervision
Installation is carried out by the experienced and competent installer who has expertise in board installation.
They are assisted by unskilled laborers. Their work is in turn supervised by experienced Foremen. Site Engineer/
Architects will be available for co-ordination with other sub-contractors and Main Contractor and also to look
into the technical aspects.
VI. Machinery and Tools to be Used
a. Wall studs, Connecting Clip, Blind Rivets to connect steel to steel furring.
b. Black screw to connect gypsum board and steel framing.
c. Shadow Line, Corner bead, casing bead by KUS, as the termination between wall and ceiling.
d. Gypsum Putty and Wire mesh tape for the control joint in each and every board laid.
d. Screw Gun. (Makita or any other similar brand)
e. Iron Scissor Cutter for furring
f. Tool box containing spirit level, measuring tape, water level, right angle, plump. Etc.
VII. Safety Procedures

c. It will be ensured that machinery and tools used are safe and always in good condition. Where applicable
only calibrated tools will be used
VIII. General
b. The Sub-Contractor reserves the right to amend the method from time to time in consultation with the Main
Contractor, depending upon the specific site condition.
Source: http://www.boral.com.au/brochures/ordering/PDF/04686_T_InstMan_Reprint_Oct09.pdf
Ceramic Tiles Method of Installation

1. Bedding Material Preparation 3. Laying Of Tiles
Source: https://www.bca.gov.sg/Professionals.pdf Source: http://pad2.whstatic.com/images/
2. Cutting of Tiles 4. Grouting
Source:http://www.interceramicusa.com/uploads/customer- Source: Actual Site Photos

resources/professional-area/TILE_INSTALLATION.pdf
The rationale of this Method Statement is to describe the steps involved in ceramic tile installation as floor or
wall all in accordance with approved shop drawings, ensuring safety, perfection and durability.
a. Installation on Interior: Any kinds of floor tiles are recommended as suitable for installation on wall and/or
floor (traffic areas). Wall tile (water absorption 15-20%) shall be installed only on walls because it is low
resistant to traffic wearing.
b. Installation on Exterior: On exterior, use only tile suitable for the climatic conditions of the locality. All
porcelain tiles & glass tiles can be installed on exteriors. For wall tile does not recommend to install on freeze
/thaw exteriors because it has high water absorption (15 – 20%), as a result there is risks of surface cracking
or break away from substrate.
c. Installation on Pools: (a) Pool ́s walls Porcelain, HD floor tile, wall tile (field and trim) & glass tiles are suitable
to install on interior pool where temperature is controlled. For exterior pools Porcelain & glass tiles are only
suitable to install on pool ́s wall; (b) Pool ́s inside floor recommends installing only porcelain and HD floor tile
for interior pools. For exterior pools only porcelain tile is suitable to install. (c) Floor tile around pools It is
mandatory to install only floor tile with DCOF value equal or greater than 0.42.
Source: http://www.interceramicusa.com/uploads/customer-resources/professional-area/ TILE_INS TALLATION.pdf

a. The quality of tiles delivered should be similar to the approved samples selected by the owner or the
designer.
b. No crack or chip should be found. Dimensions of tiles should be as per project’s specifications.
c. To prevent straining during storage, the tiles should be wrapped and stored in their original packages in a
dry, firm and level ground. They should be stacked on pallets to prevent damages arising from dampness.
The stacking height should be limited to about three to four tile cartons.
Source: https://www.bca.gov.sg/Professionals/IQUAS/..%5CIquas%5Cgpgs%5CCTiling%5CCChpt3.pdf
IV. Installation of Tiles

a. Make sure that the concrete slab to be filled by tiles should be properly and sealed by waterproofing.
b. Layout: Center of the room must be identified and marked, draw chalk lines from the point to all walls, then
layout a nylon string to set the elevation and laying of tiles.
c. After the layout is set, the bedding of materials is needed to prevent poor performance and failure,
bedding material should be mixed with consistent proportions. For cement mortar, pre-batched cement
and sand mortar is recommended.
d. Only mechanical mixer, clean container and potable water should be used for mixing bedding materials to
achieve homogeneous paste free of lumps. To prevent too much air being entrapped in the bedding
materials, high-speed mixing should be avoided.

e. ANSI A108, ANSI A118 & NASI A136 standards recommendation and contractor’s specifications, some
adhesives/mortars come ready to use, some others must be prepared according with package instructions.
f. Laying of Tiles: Damp screed surface to reduce suction, for proper hydration of mortar and it should not be
absorbed by substrate.
g. Soak porous tiles in clean water for a minimum of 30 minutes and thereafter drain off excess water. To
prevent the tiles from drawing water from the cement mortar.
h. Applying Tile Adhesive: Follow the specified material, Use a notch trowel recommended on adhesive
package to apply it on substrate: Most flooring adhesives are applied with a notched trowel. The size of the
notching is important because it controls the amount of adhesive applied.
i. Apply the adhesive on the substrate over a small area. Scoop out some adhesive using the narrow edge of
the trowel. Drop it on substrate l and use the flat surface of the notched trowel to smooth it over the surface.
j. Comb the area using the trowel’s notched side to apply additional adhesive and comb the area until the
notches are at their full depth in order to determine that the proper amount has been applied.
k. Smooth the Adhesive; lightly smooth the notched adhesive using the flat long side of the trowel. This will
ensure a consistent bed of adhesive will have been created to take the tile when it is applied.
l. Scrape the Adhesive using the margin trowel to remove excess adhesive from the substrate. Also wipe clean
immediately to ensure further repeated use.
m. Cutting Tiles: It is recommended to use manual cutter or electrical wet saw cutter. Mark the tile, to cut the
tiles correctly the first time, use a grease pencil to mark the line once you measure.

n. Use a Diamond Blade Saw; it is the best option when it comes to cutting tiles. This will give you a precise cut
without damaging the rest of the piece. If you need to make a hole in a ceramic tile, special tools and
abrasives can be purchased to make holes at the diameter you need. These tools may be purchased
individually, but also come in packaged sets.
o. Setting the Tile: Push the tile into the adhesive by twisting it into place. This twisting motion will seat the tile
firmly to the adhesive. Apply pressure to the tile so that it makes contact across the whole of the adhesive
that was applied with the notched trowel. Insert tile spacers as each tile is set.
p. Tile Spacer: Use specified tile gap by the designer.
Source: http://www.interceramicusa.com/uploads/customer-resources/professional-area/TILEINSTALLA TION.pdf
https://www.bca.gov.sg/Professionals/IQUAS/..%5CIquas%5Cgpgs%5CCTiling%5CCChpt5.pdf
V. Grouting
a. Grouting Joints, using grouts manufactured with Portland cement.
b. Allow Tile Time to Dry. Be sure the tile adhesive has had ample time to dry before you begin grouting to
avoid problems.
c. Grout preparation. Carefully read and follow all instructions and precautions on the grout package. When
mixing your grout compound, it’s important to take into consideration timing, since grout will harden in the
mix bucket. Start making your mixture wet to dry, meaning dry grout mixture in your mixing bucket, and wet
agent in another appropriate receptacle. For un or non-sanded grout, gradually mix the two together until
you get a mixture about strong enough to sustain a trowel upright. For sanded grout, look for a mixture
about the consistency of cookie dough. Note that when selecting grout, style is not the only factor.

d. Remove Grout Film. A finished tile floor will sometimes contain a certain amount of dusting or film. If a grout
film develops, wipe the tile with a dampened sponge, rinsing and wringing it often. Re-polish the floor with a
terry-cloth rag. Avoid acid or bleach when cleaning the floor, as this can discolor the grout and damage
the tile.
e. Damp Curing (For grouts manufactured with Portland cement) another process associated with grouting is a
procedure known as damp curing, and is recommended to improve the strength of the grout. This is done
by covering the finished floor with non-staining craft-type paper for three days. Another method is to wipe
the joints with a damp sponge or mop daily, after the first 24 hours, for the next three days.
Source: http://www.interceramicusa.com/uploads/customer-resources/professional-area/TILE_INSTA LLA TION.pdf
Stone Installation to Wall Cladding

Method of Installation, Clips Details
Source: https://www.google.com.ph/search?q=stone+wall Source: http://www.sampedras.com/images/fix1.png

+cladding+installation http://mcgrawimages.buildingmedia.com
Actual Installation
Source: http://www.dynamic-cladding.com/img/stone- Source: https://www.google.com.ph/search?q=stone+wall

hangers.png +cladding+method+of+installation
I. Purpose of the Method Statement

The purpose of this method is to provide sets of detailed procedure for stone cladding to the walls installation in
accordance with approved shop drawings, ensuring safety and durability of the workmanship.

a. The work under this section includes cladding of natural stone on external walls and all other areas – interior
and exterior cladding with desired dimension, finishing and thickness conforming to the approved shop
drawings.
b. Standard accessories used in stone cladding include metallic fasteners of required grade of stainless steel.
Adhesives of approved make and quality are used to secure the fasteners and the holes and cuttings in the
stone made for fasteners.

a. Stone will be packed in pallets of wooden strips with thermo cool padding and plastic covers to prevent
breakage, scratches and damage to stone during transit/shipment.
b. Stone will be carefully handled and stored separated by wooden strips to prevent breakage, staining or
other damage.
c. Stone slabs will be kept in vertical position to prevent contact with earth surface.
IV. Installation
a. All stone will be clad to the structure of the building with metallic fasteners – ‘Z’ type angles described
separately with all necessary components to support the cladding in place, to the lines and dimensions set
by plumb and as shown in drawings.
b. Markings will be made on the wall by setting plumb to determine the exact locations.
c. Stone slabs will be segregated and arranged in the open space near cladding point to select stones of
matching sizes and veins.
d. Protective coating will be applied behind the stone as a damp proof.
e. Stone anchors shall be securely drilled in the wall and located as shown in drawings and shall be set plumb
and in true place.
f. Surface level will be ensured to maintain right angle as well as the plumb
g. Clean cladding surfaces that have become dirty or stained prior to setting, to remove soil, stains and other
foreign materials.
a. Clean stone by thoroughly scrubbing exposed surfaces with fiber brushed, followed by a thorough
drenching with clear water.
b. Mild cleaning compounds that do not contain caustic materials, harsh filters or abrasives.
h. Stone cladding shall be carried out by masons skilled in the procedures required for the Project.
i. Powered cutting machines are employed to cut stones and the exposed edges straight.
j. Anchors/angles, fasteners and other accessories are positioned in the wall for maintaining proper alignment
in horizontal and vertical direction and fitted as required to secure stones slabs in place.
k. Stone will be cut behind to provide for the fasteners

l. In the gap behind the stone polystyrene sheets will be placed to act as a vapor barrier
m. Standard glue will be used to secure the fasteners.
n. After cladding the stones will be cleaned of any dirt, dust and stains. Grouting will be used for defective and
unsatisfactory joints to provide a neat uniform appearance.
o. Defective stone units where the dirt, stains and other defacements cannot be removed will be replaced.
V. Supervision
Installation is carried out by the experienced and competent masons who have expertise in dry fix process.
They are assisted by unskilled laborers. Their work is in turn supervised by experienced Foremen. Site Engineer will
be available for co-ordination with other sub-contractors and Main Contractor and also to look into the
technical aspects. He will ensure that the overall work conforms to the shop Drawing.
VI. Fixing Materials Used
a. Angles/anchor to be used:
 'Z Type Angle 40 x 70 x 40 x 4mm. The sizes and the type of angle may vary depending upon the
space between stone and the wall and other factors. The angles to be used will be of stainless grade
304
 Accessories include bolts, nuts, shield, ext arm, pins and washers all of stainless steel grade 304
b. Glue to be used: Italian Solid Cream glue ‘Marmolit’ mixed with hardener
c. Protective Coating: Sikagard 700S siloxane based water repellent.

a. Stone Cutting Machines – 2 Nos. of different sizes
b. Grinding machine Dewalt and other makes
c. Drilling machines
d. Tool Box containing spirit level, measuring tape, water level, right angle, plump etc.
IX. Maintenance
The stone cladding will be under 1-year maintenance period. Any installation deficiencies that are noticed in
stones already fixed are attended to within this period
X. General
The Sub-Contractor reserves the right to amend the method from time to time in consultation with the Main
Contractor, depending upon the specific site condition
Painting Procedure to Gypsum Board (Latex)
Paint Swatches Applying Compound
Source: http://www.greenprophet.com/wpcontent/ u Source: http://www.boral.com.au/brochures/ordering/PDF/

loads/2012/08/smartpaint-green-paint-open-cans-colors.jpeg
Materials Actual Application
Source: http://www.painterclick.com/images/painting-tip_1.gif Source: http://www.21stcenturytexas.com/wp-content/upl

oads/2014/01/bigstock-hand-painting-wall-42180151.jpg

The purpose of this method is to provide sets of detailed procedure for painting procedure applied to gypsum
ceiling and walls using flat latex all in accordance with the specification of the designer.

a. Interior painting works applied to gypsum wall and ceiling serve as protective and aesthetic coating to the
surface being applied.
b. Materials used in preparation of gypsum board to be painted, are boral putty and premix to cover joints
and uneven surfaces of the board. This also includes smoothing of the surface using sandpaper according
to the density required.
c. Wherein, latex paint colors vary depending on the specified color finish. As flat latex 701serves as the
premium base.
a. Shall be delivered in sealed containers that plainly show the designated name, specifications.
b. Ensure good ventilation/exhaustion at the workplace.
c. Prevent formation of aerosols
d. It is recommended that it be sealed for damp areas where condensation might occur due to temperature.

IV. Procedure
a. Surface Preparation: There should not be very much preparation except checking to make sure the wall
have been sanded and for dusting off the walls.
b. Priming: A primer tinted close to the specified color finish.

c. Mix Up the primer. Pour as much paint as the paint tray will hold.
d. Start in the corner and roll the paint around using one stroke. And brush the reaming corners.
e. Surface Preparation: Check the nail holes, nicks or cuts that might have been affect the smoothness of the
surface. Using drywall compounds such as boral premium powder and putty and gauge tape for the joints.
Make sure that the compound mixture applied is smoothly rubbed by the sandpaper.
f. Applying first Coat: Using roller, move until the whole surface is fully painted then brush all the sides that the
roller cannot reach.
g. Check the imperfections of the surface that may be seen by eye, and retouch using the drywall
compounds. Then lightly sand completed surface. Dust off the surfaces.
h. Applying Second Coat of Paint: The final coat of paint. Take a brush and cut in. As you finish brushing one
surface wall at a time roll immediately. Move to the next surface wall and repeat procedure until all
surfaces are completed.
Source: http://www.painterclick.com/new_drywall_painting.htm

V. Supervision
Painting procedures is carried out by the skilled and experienced painters who have expertise in painting works.
They are assisted by unskilled laborers. Their work is in turn supervised by experienced Foremen.
Site Engineer will be available for co-ordination with other sub-contractors and Main Contractor and also to
look into the technical aspects. He will ensure that the overall work conforms to the shop Drawing.
VI. Materials Used IN Preparation
a. Tape Gauge/Wire Mesh Tape for jointing gypsum board together.

b. Mixing compound, such as boral powder, putty, surfacer and sandpaper to smoothen the surface.
c. Paint specified by the designer.
d. Roller and brush for applying paint to the surface.

a. Sander if needed.
b. Tool Palette
Painting Procedure to Concrete Wall (Latex)

IX. Maintenance
Painting works and finishes can easily stained by other materials that might damp into it. But simple retouches
and brushes can cover the dent.
X. General
Source: http://pad2.whstatic.com/images/thumb/6 6e/ Paint-a- Source: http://www.featurepics.com/FI/Thumb300/20 10071 9/

Concrete-Wall-Step-2.jpg/670px-Paint-a-Concrete-Wall-Step- Dirty-Worn-Concrete-Wall-Section-Painted-White-1616114.jpg
2.jpg
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x300 _85/636/paintbrushes-sized-25636.jpg /slide2.jpg

The rationale of this method is to provide sets of thorough process for painting method useful to concrete walls
using flat latex all in accord with the requirement of the designer.
a. Concrete painting is trickier than painting most surfaces: It breathes, transports moisture, and sucks up
paint.
b. Materials used in preparation of concrete paint to be painted, are neutralizer to remove acid on the
concrete wall and to avoid peel-off of the paint. Boral putty and premix to cover joints and uneven surfaces
of the board. This also includes smoothing of the surface using sandpaper according to the density required.
c. Wherein, latex paint colors vary depending on the specified color finish. As flat latex 701serves as the
premium base.
IV. Procedure
a. Verify the color of paint to be applied, specified by the designer. In which, select paint that is appropriate
for the location, for exterior it should be resistive to moisture & sun exposure. While for indoor/interior acrylic
paint is recommended.
b. Clean the concrete wall. For exterior projects, use a power washer to rid the wall of all dirt and dust. If your
project is indoors, scrub the wall with soapy water and a scrub brush instead of using a power washer.
c. Apply masonry neutralizer to remove the acid content of the masonry and to avoid peel-off of paint. Rough
sand surface to remove efflorescence salts.
d. Repair any cracks or blemishes in your wall with concrete patch/boral mixtures. Follow the directions to mix
up the concrete patch mixture. Fill holes and use a trowel to smooth the patch to match the surface of the
wall.
e. Check the wall for moisture. Paint applied to a wall that is not properly sealed will not adhere properly. Tape
the plastic sheeting to the wall. Attempt to get the sheeting as air-tight as possible. Check the plastic after
24 hours. If moisture appears within the plastic, you will need to seal the wall. If no moisture is present, the
wall is already sealed.
f. Seal the concrete wall. Roll on 1 coat of concrete sealer and allow it to dry overnight. Concrete sealer is
available at most hardware or home improvement stores.
g. Apply 1 coat of concrete primer. You can use rollers or brushes to apply the paint. Ensure the primer is
applied evenly, whichever technique you use. Let it dry for 24 hours. If you can see the wall through the
primer, apply 1 more coat.
h. Paint your wall with concrete paint. Paint should be applied in at least 3 thin layers. The paint may be
sprayed on, rolled on or painted on with a brush. The paint should not be streaky or show brush strokes.
Allow to dry for 24 hours.
i. Roll on concrete paint sealer. Cover with 2 coats, allowing it to dry between coats. Paint sealer helps the
paint to adhere to the wall and last longer.
Source: http://www.wikihow.com/Paint-a-Concrete-Wall
V. Supervision
Painting procedures is carried out by the skilled and experienced painters who have expertise in painting works.
They are assisted by unskilled laborers. Their work is in turn supervised by experienced Foremen.
Site Engineer will be available for co-ordination with other sub-contractors and Main Contractor and also to
look into the technical aspects. He will ensure that the overall work conforms to the shop Drawing.

VI. Materials Used in Preparation
a. Mixing compound, such as boral powder, putty, surfacer and sandpaper to smoothen the surface.
b. Paint specified by the designer. Concrete neutralizer to remove acid content of the concrete wall.
c. Roller and brush for applying paint to the surface.
d. Concrete sealer & Concrete Primer

a. Sander if needed.
b. Tool Palette
a. Wear appropriate safety equipment, such as gloves and goggles.

b. Make sure the area in which you are painting is well-ventilated. Concrete paint, primer and sealer have
strong odors.
c. All the workmen will wear overalls, safety shoes, goggles, hand gloves and helmets. Adequate lighting and
d. It will be ensured that machinery and tools used are safe and always in good condition. Where applicable
e. Markings will be made on the wall by setting plumb to determine the exact locations

IX. Maintenance
Painting works and finishes can easily stained by other materials that might damp into it. But simple retouches
and brushes can cover the dent.
X. General
Wood Varnish Finish Procedure
Color Swatches Method
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wood _ floor _ swatches-e1431385438280.jpg uploads/2010/01/varnish.jpg
Preparation Application
Source: http://pad1.whstatic.com/images/thumb/c/c1 /Varnish- Source: http://img.archiexpo.com/images_ae/photo-

Wood-Step-18.jpg/670px-Varnish-Wood-Step-18.jpg g/wooden-baseboard-123491-8019168.jpg


The purpose of this method is to give sets of methodical process for varnishing useful to woods using all in
accord with the prerequisite of the designer.
a. Varnishing wood is a great way to protect it from scratches, stains, water damage and general wear and
tear.
b. It only takes a few tools and a little time to use varnish, and in no time, you can easily learn how to apply
varnish properly.
c. Varnish also beautifies wood pieces and can help bring out its individual grain and color; it can also be
purchased tinted to change the color of the wood.
e. Varnish is a mixture of oils and natural resins.

IV. Procedure
a. Work in a well-ventilated area, as varnish can produce some pretty harsh fumes. Lay down sheets of
newspaper or other scrap material to reduce the risk of spilling varnish onto floor.
b. Prepare the wood for varnishing. The wood should be sanded completely to remove any old finishes and
provide a surface for the varnish to adhere to.
c. Sand the wood with fine-grit sandpaper. Sanding the wood not only gets rid of any residual gloss or finishes,
but it also gives the varnish a rough surface to grip onto. Use 180 to 220-grit sandpaper and sand with the
direction of the grain.
d. Clean the wood by going over it with a clean cloth.
e. Consider filling the wood grain using fulatite or polituff. Some open-grained woods, such as oak, need to
have the grain filled in with grain filler for a smooth finish.
f. Prepare the varnish for the initial coat, if necessary. This helps seal the wood and prepare it for the
proceeding coats. The rest of the coats do not to be thinned.
 If using an oil-based varnish, thin it with paint thinner, such as turpentine. Use one part varnish to one
part thinner.
 If using a water-based or acrylic-based varnish, thin it with water instead. Use one part varnish to one
part water.
g. Apply the first coat of thinned varnish and let it dry. Use a flat paintbrush or foam applicator to apply the
varnish to the wood. Use long, even strokes, and work along the wood grain. Let this first coat dry for 24
hours.
Varnish Finish Procedure

 If using a spray on varnish, hold the can 6 to 8 inches away from the surface and spray on a light,
even coat. Let it dry according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
h. Sand the first coat and wipe it with a damp cloth. After applying the initial coat of thinned varnish, smooth it
out. Do this by buffing the surface of the varnished wood with 280-grit sandpaper and then using a dry cloth
to wipe away any dust of debris
 Make sure to wipe down the work space with a damp cloth to get rid of any dust caused by the
sanding
 Make sure that the brush is clean with paint thinner (if using an oil-based varnish) or water (if using a
water-based varnish).
i. Apply the next coat of varnish and allow it to dry. Using a clean brush or a new foam applicator, apply the
varnish to the wooden piece. Once again, make sure that brushing along the wood grain. It doesn’t have
to thin this layer. Wait 24 hours for this layer to dry.
 If using a spray on varnish, you can spray on another coat. Make sure to keep the can 6 to 8 inches
away from the surface, and spray on a single, light coat. Spray the varnish on too thickly, it may end
up with puddles, drips, and runs.

j. Sand the second coat and wipe it clean with damp cloth. Once the second coat of varnish has dried, sand
it gently with a fine-grit sandpaper, such as 320-grit.
Let the varnish dry 24 hours before applying the next coat, and remember to clean the work space of any
dust or dirt caused by the sanding.
k. Continue applying more varnish and sanding between coats. Apply 2 to 3 more coats of varnish. Remember
to let the varnish dry between coats, and to sand and wipe the varnish clean before applying more varnish.
Always work along the grain when applying and sanding the varnish.
When you get to the last coat, do not sand it.
 Continue working with 320-grit sandpaper, or move up to 400-grit.
 For optimal results, consider waiting 48 hours before applying the final coat.
l. Wait for the varnish to finish curing. Varnish will typically need some time to finish curing. To prevent ruining
the varnish, leave your wooden piece some place where it will not be disturbed.
Some varnishes finish curing with 24 or 48 hours, while others need as much as 5 or 7 days. Some varnishes
require 30 days to finish curing. Refer to the instructions on the can for more specific drying and curing times.
Source: http://www.wikihow.com/Varnish-Wood

V. Supervision
Varnishing procedures is carried out by the skilled and experienced varnishers who have expertise in Varnish
works. They are assisted by inexperienced laborers. Their work is in turn supervised by experienced Foremen. Site
Engineer/Architect will be available for co-ordination with other sub-contractors and Main Contractor and also
to look into the technical aspects. He will ensure that the overall work conforms to the shop Drawing.

a. Paint stripper or paint thinner (optional)
b. Sandpaper (150-grit to 320-grit. 400-grit is optional)
c. Turpentine
d. Polituff/Fulatite
e. Varnish
f. Paintbrushes and/or foam applicators
g. Washing soda (optional)
h. Dust mask, ventilated face mask, and gloves (optional)
i. Damp cloth

a. Spray Gun
b. Air Compressor

a. Consider using proper protection, such as safety glasses, gloves, and a mask.
b. Use proper ventilation. Many paint thinners and varnishes have strong fumes, which may cause light-
headedness or nausea.
c. Do not mix wood varnishes together. This could a cause negative and dangerous chemical reaction.
d. Keep varnish away from open flame. Wood finish is flammable.
Source: http://www.wikihow.com/Varnish-Wood
IX. Maintenance
Varnish works and finishes can last longer but too much exposure to heat or to coolness might produce cracks.
But cracks can be easily retouch.
X. General
Wood Door and Jamb Installation including Casing

Solid Wood Installation of Hardware
Source: http://www.woodcrafts.co.za/Door_Frames_2.gif Source: http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/3/3e/Ins tall-a-

Storm-Door-Step-8.jpg/670px-Install-a-Storm-Door-Step-8.jpg
Installation Actual Installation
Source: http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/c/cc/1 2 Source: http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/5/57 /Install-or-

35410-11.jpg/670px-1235410-11.jpg Replace-Door-Hinges-Step-9-Version-2.jpg/670px-Install-or-
Replace-Door-Hinges-Step-9-Version-2.jpg

The rationale of this method is to give sets of systematic process for installation of wood door and jam including
wood casing and hardware all in accord with the prerequisite of the designer.
a. The timbers used for doors shall be free from unsound knots, dead knots, loose knots and knotholes. It should
also be free from decay and insect attack other than pinholes.
b. A door installation process is really simple if you have all the tools, and know how to install a door.
c. Must check the rough opening is plumb and that the sub sill is leveled. The sub sill is no other than the floor
under the door sill will be resting.
a. Shall be delivered in sealed box/plastic that plainly shows the designated name, specifications.
b. The wood should be in squareness and plumbness, all in complete parts with jambs and fillers.
c. It must be handled carefully, the edges should be maintained edgy and the veneer cover should be all in
accordance with the designer’s specification.
d. Must be placed in an area that is dry and away from water.
IV. Installation
a. Start getting things straightened out. Start by drawing a plumb line on the wall. Check the elevation of door
to be installed and the width including the installation of jamb.

b. Install the door jamb. Make sure that it is squared and plumb. Fixed it with finishing nails or tucker gun nails.
Make sure that the nails are in lined.
c. Set the hinge to be installed in door jamb. Verify the wieght of the door so that the number of hinge to be
installed will follow too.
d. Install the hinge to the jamb. Make sure that the door is flushed with the sides of the jamb and the gap all
over the jamb must be uniform.
e. Check the mechanism of opening the door, if it will touch the jamb or it will close smoothly.
f. After the door and jamb are installed together. Install the door casing, offset of 10mm away from the jamb.
Must be all over the door and each sides of the door.
g. Check the miter joint of the casing in each side. Make that is squred and in levelness and must maintain the
10mm offset.
h. Install other hardwares. Lever handle at 1000mm form the bottom of door. The lockset specified by the
designer. And other accessories, floor stopper at 90degrees opening of door. And if door closer is necessary.
V. Supervision
Installation of wood door is carried out by the skilled and experienced carpenters who have expertise in
finishing carpentry works. They are assisted by inexperienced laborers. Their work is in turn supervised by
experienced Foremen. Site Engineer/Architect will be available for co-ordination with other sub-contractors
and Main Contractor and also to look into the technical aspects. He will ensure that the overall work conforms
to the shop Drawing.


a. Pencil
b. Level 4' or 6'
c. Door Hinges
d. Lever Handles
e. Lockset
f. Door closer if intended
g. Other hardware specify by the designer
a. Power Drill
b. Air Compressor for tucker gun
b. When installing a solid core door, take a screw out of each of the 3 hinges and drive a long 2.5" screw in.
This will increase door stability. Shimming door jamb after bracket installation will also greatly increase the
strength
c. Make sure the screws are tightly installed so that the doors will function well.
Sliding Wood Door and Jamb Installation including Casing

IX. Maintenance
Use screws to install one side of the head jamb so you can remove the door in the event of a problem.
X. General
Hardware Installation
Source: Source: http://d2dbm32qe9ecjy.cloudfront.net/wp-

http://www.hafele.com.cn/images/HPC_slido_content.jpg content/themes/infocus/cache/BASDR_PocketDoorPg__017-
450x300.jpg
Sliding Track/Rail Application
Source: http://hci.frontstepsmedial.netdna-cdn.com/wp- Source: http://doors4uk.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Sliding-door-

content/uploads/2008/06/Pocket-Door-Head-Track.jpg pocket-940x600.jpg

The purpose of this method is to provide sets of thorough process for installation of sliding wood doors, jamb
and hardware all in accord with the requirement of the designer.

a. A pocket door slides into a metal and wood cage that is installed as the walls are framed.
b. The door disappeared into the wall when it wasn't being used, but was convenient to pull out when
needed.
c. The clever design of a pocket door continues to be a space-saving solution in today's homes, especially in a
small bathroom where a hinged door swing takes up too much floor place. The framing hardware within the
cavity of the wall allows the door to slide in and out of the wall, a solution in a room where floor or wall
space is at a premium.

c. It must be handled carefully, the edges should be maintained edgy and the veneer cover should be all in
accordance with the designer’s specification.
IV. Installation
a. Construct the rough opening or modify the existing wall to fit the rough opening dimensions for the door
jamb supplied by the manufacturer of the hardware. Make sure that all studs are plumb (perfectly vertical)
and the header is level.
b. Install the header-and-track assembly on the top jamb with the fasteners and brackets supplied with the
door. Nail the end plate to the wall studs.
c. Attach the split jamb stiffeners to the floor bracket and then plumb them with a level and nail the brackets
to the floor. Nail the split jamb to the header.
d. Repeat for the second pair of stiffeners, installing them in the middle of the pocket.
e. Install hanging hardware on the top edge of the door.
f. Slide the wheel hangers into the track and hang the door on the two hangers.
g. Adjust the hangers until the door is plumb.
h. Reinstall the door and then install the door guides on the inside and outside of the door at the mouth of the
pocket.
i. Nail the two-piece side and head jambs on either side of the door so it is flush with the finished wall surface.
j. Use screws to install one side of the head jamb so you can remove the door in the event of a problem.
k. Install a full-width strike jamb on the opposite side.
l. Drill a hole and chisel a shallow mortise in that jamb for the strike plate, which the door latch engages.
m. Install door casing, nailing it to the jamb and to pocket door studs. Using finishing nails or tucker gun.
n. Install other hardware accessories, handle and lockset.
Source: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-install-pocket-doors.html
V. Supervision
Installation of wood door is carried out by the skilled and experienced carpenters who have expertise in
to the shop Drawing.

a. Sliding track and rail, stopper
b. Level 4' or 6'
c. Handles
d. Lockset
e. Door closer if intended
f. Other hardware specify by the designer

a. Power Drill

b. When installing a solid core door, take a screw out of each of the 3 hinges and drive a long 2.5" screw in.
This will increase door stability. Shimming door jamb after bracket installation will also greatly increase the
strength
c. Make sure the screws are tightly installed so that the doors will function well.
IX. Maintenance
Use screws to install one side of the head jamb so you can remove the door in the event of a problem.
X. General
Installation of Wood Veneer Wall Panels
Veneer Panel Panel
Source: https://www.cardsofwood.com/wp- Source: http://iwallpaneling.com/images/wood-wall-

content/uploads/2015/07/eighthinch_large.jpg paneling/wood-wall-paneling.jpg
Installation Veneer at Hallway
Source: http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Step-By- Designer’s

Step/FH06SEP_ORGGAR_08.JPG
The purpose of this method is to provide sets of thorough process for installation of wood veneer panel wall all in
accord with the requirement of the designer.

a. Natural, not reconstituted wood veneer that has a protective melamine resin wear layer and fused with
phenolic resin-impregnated Kraft sheets. The result is a pre-finished, ready-to-fabricate veneer that features
a maintenance-free, scratch resistant surface.
b. Veneer panels may be sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity conditions. If adhered with excess
moisture present, there is a risk of cracking and open seams due to shrinkage, particularly in winter
conditions or when relative humidity is low.
Source: http://www.laminart.com/document/2687/Lamin-Art-install_Veneer_070115.pdf

a. Should be stored horizontally, back-to-back and face-to-face, with the top sheet turned face down and a
caul board placed on top to preserve the material.
b. Storing the panels in an atmospherically stabilized room is recommended to avoid extreme fluctuations of
moisture.
c. Full size veneer sheets be carried by two people with the decorative facing upward whenever possible.
IV. Installation
a. Edges and whole veneer panel must be sealed using a clear varnish or other suitable sealer to prevent
moisture penetration/absorption.
b. Drill a wood nuts/ baton on the concrete wall. It will serve as the counterpart of the tucker gun installed in
the veneer panel.
c. Apply rugby or any other wood glue that will bond the wall and the substrate of the veneer. Make sure that
the veneer will be fixed tightly.
d. Upon installation of veneer panel, make sure the hairline/ hasps are in one direction or stroke. Narrow panels
for wall applications, held rigidly in place by a securing system can have just a face side if the back side is
protected from excess humidity and covered with a suitable sealant such as paint, lacquer, or a vapor-
retarding varnish.
e. The termination of veneer panel to another veneer panel should be almost zero-to zero termination so that
when retouching the termination, there will be minimal works to be done.
f. Make sure that the veneer is closely flat to the wall to avoid the result of waviness.
g. To avoid warping of a panel assembly faced with Veneer-Art®, stresses resulting from thermal and
hygroscopic forces on both sides of the assembly must be balanced. The best results are obtained when a
backing sheet with characteristics comparable to the face sheet, is laminated to it.
h. After installing veneer panel, retouch all the minor damages of the panel.
V. Supervision
Installation of veneer panel is carried out by the skilled and experienced carpenters who have expertise in
to the shop Drawing. And secure that there are no scratches, damaged panels, alignments, even and
straightness, the gap and termination, and the quality of the finish product.

a. Finishing Nails
b. Rugby
c. Wood Glue
d. Sealer
e. Plumb Tools

a. Power Drill
c. Spray Gun for sealer

b. Good access and good lighting
c. Install veneer panel with proper care by two carpenters to avoid warping of the panel upon installation.
IX. Maintenance
Once veneer is installed, it is difficult to demolish and reinstall the same material. Veneer is quit sensitive type of
laminated wood. But damages can be retouch by varnish and still look the same as the veneer finish.
X. General
Installation of Frameless Shower Glass Enclosures
Glass and Accessories U-Channel& Edge Trim
Source: http://www.hafele.ae/images/HAE-Products-Archi Source: http://static.wixstatic.com/media/43fd9f_176de8d0 817

tectural-Hinges1.jpg cfb b 26b0 b6bcea9cd0d13.jpg_512
Installation of Glass using suction cup Installed Glass Enclosure
Source: http://www.ggrglass.co.uk/media/catalog/produ ct Source: http://theprimeglass.com/wp-content/uploads/ 2013

/cache/1/thumbnail/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136 /01/IMG_ 0106 -300x225.jpg
e95/g/g/ggr2_lifting_glass_door _panel_squared.jpg

The purpose of this method is to provide sets of methodical process for installation of glass enclosures and
hardware all in accord with the requirement of the designer.
a. Pivoting glass doors and associated panels such as side lites and highlights must be a minimum of 10mm
toughened tempered glass.
b. Corners patch fitting glass which has a self closing mechanism.
a. Shall be delivered in sealed plastic that plainly shows the designated name, specifications.
b. The tempered glass is much sensitive in its corner, once the edges was hit or bumped the glass might broken
into bits.
c. It should be clear and no scratches and cuts on side.
d. Must be store in a room with wood supporting at the bottom.
IV. Installation
a. Installation of U-Channel/ glass clamps. Channels will offset inside the wall so that the glass will look
frameless. This will serve as the foundation of the glass enclosure at side and bottom.
b. Installation of Glass door hinges. This should aligned with the door elevation. Make sure that the glass swing
door elevation will not touch the flooring.
c. Glass Door enclosure installation. After hinges are set, door can now be fixed safely and properly. Make sure
that the door is safe when it comes to mechanism and functionality.
d. Make sure hinges are tightening properly. This is for the probablity that the glass door might fall out of the
hinges.
e. Check alignments and levelness of the glass door inligned with the fixed enclosure and the wall.
f. Check sides of glass door. When opening and closing door, the edges of the glass should not reach at
each other sides. This can cause breakage of the glass.
g. Apply silicon sealant at U-channel and glass termination. To ensure the glass wont sway while opening/
closing door. And to cover the u-channel imount to the wall.
h. Install Glass rubber edge trim. This serves as door stopper at sides. Water stopper at bottom. And as a
protection on edges of the glass from sharp edges.
V. Supervision
Installation of glass enclosure is carried out by the skilled and experienced glass installers who have expertise in
glass and glazing installation works. They are assisted by inexperienced laborers. Their work is in turn supervised
by experienced Foremen.
Site Engineer/Architect will be available for co-ordination with other sub-contractors and Main Contractor and
also to look into the technical aspects. He will ensure that the overall work conforms to the shop Drawing. And
secure that the glass has no defects, breakage and scratches.
a. Silicon Sealant
b. U-Channel
c. Glass Door Hinges
d. Glass Door Handle
e. U-Channel
f. Plumb Tools
a. Glass Suction Cup
b. Make sure the suction glass holder is tighten to hold the glass when installing.
c. Use safety goggles if in case the glass breaks.

IX. Maintenance
Glass is easy to maintain and clean by using clean cloth or newspaper.
X. General
Installation of Wallpaper on Concrete Wall
Actual Wallpaper used in MDR Installation
Source: Designer’s Specification Source: http://www.paintpro.net/images/Feature_Pho tos /P P8

02 /pp802wallpaper01z.jpg
Wall covering Adhesive MDR Suite Room Wallpaper
Source: http://travisperkins.scene7.com/is/image/trav is Source: Designer

perkins/B0089_610086_00?$normal$

The purpose of this method is to provide sets of methodical process for installation of wallpaper to concrete
wall all in accordance with the requirement of the designer.
a. Wallpaper is glued by adhesive laid smooth and flat in wall.
b. It gives aesthetic value and wall covering as well.
c. The concrete wall surface should be in level with no bumps and waviness as it will reflect into the wallpaper
when installed.
a. Shall be delivered in sealed plastic that plainly shows the designated name, specifications.
b. Wall covering should be rolled and sealed.
c. It should be stored in area not close to paint and other stained materials and from water and any other
liquid.
IV. Installation
a. Check the levelness of concrete walls. Waviness and protrusions on wall should be avoided upon installation
of wallpaper as it will reflect when wallpaper is installed.
b. Apply wallpaper adhesive on walls. Fill the wall with wall covering adhesive. This is not to absorb the
wallpaper glue. Leave it until the wall absorb the adhesive.
c. Install the specified wall covering design. If the wall are free from flaws and the adhesive is dry. Install the
wallpaper by applying glue directly to the whole whole covering. Then fit into wall, start at the top and
scrape it up to the bottom of the wall.
d. Cutting of wallpaper. It should be cut straight and aligned with the design.
e. Make sure that there are no bubbles inside. When not properly scrape bubbles might appear and can give
protrusions t the wall covering, but minimal bubbles can be remedy by glue injections.
f. Terminations should be check. Especially when the specified wallpaper has design, the termination of each
wallpaper shall be continuous.
V. Supervision
Installation of wallpaper covering is carried out by the skilled and experienced upholstery installers who have
expertise in wall covering installation. They are assisted by inexperienced laborers. Their work is in turn supervised
by experienced Foremen. Site Engineer/Architect will be available for co-ordination with other sub-contractors
to the shop Drawing. And secure that the wallpaper is installed properly with no protrusions, no bubbles and
good termination.
a. Wallpaper Adhesive
b. Metylan Powder Glue
c. Cutter

a. Cutter
b. Adhesive and glue should be kept in place to avoid mis-use.
c. Use ladder safely when installing in heights.

IX. Maintenance
Wallpaper has the tendency of cutting and easily stained by some chemicals, but simple water with soap soak
using clean cloth can remove stains and dents.
X. General
Carpet Method of Installation
MDR Carpet Swatches Method of Carpet Installation
Source: Designer’s Specification Source: Actual Site Photo
Tack less Strip Installation MDR Carpet
Source: Actual Site Photo Source: MDR

The purpose of this method is to provide sets of systematic process for installation of carpet on hallway, lobby
and public areas all in accordance with the requirement of the designer.
a. Carpets today have revolutionary carpet fiber systems that give supreme softness while being virtually stain
proof.
b. It is comfortable underfoot, easy to replace while being warmer, softer and quieter underfoot. Installation
flexibility allows carpet to go over a variety of substates.

a. Store carpet and related materials in a climate-controlled, dry space. Protect carpet from soil, dust,
moisture and other contaminants and store on a flat surface. Stacking heavy objects on top of carpet rolls is
prohibited. Double stacking pallets of carpet tile should be avoided unless approved by the manufacturer.
b. Transport carpet in a manner that prevents damage and distortion. Bending or folding individual carpet rolls
or cuts from rolls are not recommended. When bending or folding is unavoidable for delivery purposes, the
carpet is required to be unrolled and allowed to lie flat immediately upon arrival at the installation site.
IV. Installation
a. Check the levelness of concrete floors. Protrusions and ponding should be removed and rectify first before
installing the carpet. Especially the side to wall termination.
b. Clean the area. Where the carpet be installed, it should be dust and water free.
c. Install tack less strip on the concrete floor. Leave a space of about 1/2" between the strips and the wall,
and be sure the pins or tacks face towards the wall. (They're called tackless strips even though they have
two or three rows or very sharp tacks, because using these "tackless strips" means you don't need to "tack"
carpet down.) At corners, make sure the tackless strips are butted tightly against each other.
d. Put the under pad down in strips that butt up to or reach the tackless strips. Butt the strips against each other
- don't overlap them - then staple the underlay down along the inside edge of the tack less strip.
Trim the excess underlay along the inside of the tackless strip and use duct tape to seal the seams. A small
bead of glue can be used on concrete floors to hold the pad in place.
e. To install carpet properly, you need to start with a piece that overlaps the edge of the floor by 4 to 6 inches
(10.2 to 15.2 cm). The overlay can then be trimmed so the carpet fits properly. To cut your first section,
measure the room at its longest point and add 6 inches (15.2 cm) to that measurement.
Mark the back of your carpet on both edges with that measurement and join the two marks with a chalk
line. Fold the carpet over on itself, and using a straight edge and a sharp utility knife, cut through the
backside of your carpet. Be sure to place a piece of scrap board underneath your cut line to protect the
underlying carpet.
f. If the area is wide enough and need to get another piece of carpet, follow the same process with the
second piece - measure, mark and trim. Be sure the carpet pile is running the same way in both pieces, and
that the carpet piece is large enough to overlap the wall by 4 to 6 inches (10.2 to 15.2 cm), as well as
overlapping the first piece of carpet by 4 to 6 inches (10.2 to 15.2 cm). (Try to layout your carpet pieces so
the seams won't be in noticeable areas, but obviously sometimes that just isn't possible.)
g. Where the carpet pieces will join, overlap the two pieces, and then using a utility knife or a rented seam
cutter, cut through both pieces of carpet, ensuring the edges will match exactly. After cutting the carpet,
center a piece of seaming tape on the floor underneath where they join, adhesive side up.
Use the seaming iron to activate the adhesive (the iron goes on the tape, not on top of the carpet), and
then butt the edges together and seal the seam with a rolling pin or a carpet roller.
h. Use a knee kicker to attach the carpet along one edge. A knee kicker is a solid metal tool about 18" long
with "teeth" that will grip the carpet on one end, and a heavily padded "butt" on the other. Place the
toothed end of the kicker about 3" from the wall and drive your knee forcefully into the padded end of the
tool. This will stretch the carpet over the tackless strip where the tacks will grab it and hold it firmly in place.

i. A carpet stretcher will finish attaching the carpet. A carpet stretcher is similar to knee kicker, but much
longer. Put one end of the carpet stretcher against the wall where the carpet is already attached and
place the other end about 6 inches (15.2 cm) from the far wall.
The carpet stretcher also has teeth to grip the carpet, and when you push on the activation lever, it will
stretch the carpet over the tack less strip near the far wall.
j. Check around the area stretching the carpet over the tack less strips, and trim the carpet near the wall with
a utility knife or a wall trimmer.
k. Using a stair tool, tuck the carpet down into the gap between the tack less strips and the wall. At the
doorway, trim the carpet so the edge is centered under the closed door and install a door edge strip.
Finally, cut any vent openings and install the molding on the baseboards.
Source: http://www.wikihow.com/Install-Carpet
V. Supervision
Installation of carpet roll is carried out by the skilled and experienced upholster who have expertise in fabric/
carpet upholstery works. They are assisted by inexperienced laborers. Their work is in turn supervised by
experienced Foremen.
secure that the carpet termination are clean.

a. Tack less strips
b. Stapler
c. Hammer
d. Utility knife
e. Chalk line
f. Measuring tape
g. Rolling pin (seam roller)
h. Work gloves
i. Knee pads

a. Knee Kicker
b. Power stretcher
c. Seam cutter
d. Seaming iron
e. Seam tape
f. Wall trimmer
g. Strip cutter
h. Seam roller

IX. Maintenance
Carpets need to be vacuumed once a week and more often in areas of heavy traffic. Frequent vacuuming
prolongs the life of your carpet by preventing a buildup of gritty particles that can cut carpet fibers.
Source: http://home.howstuffworks.com/home-improvement/household-hints-tips/cleaning-organizing/carpet-cleaning-
tips.htm
X. General
Padded Panel Installation

Installation of Velcro Tape
Source: http://www.stoltzimage.com/images/Compr es sed- Source: https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com

Color-Fan.jpg
Installation Actual MDR Photos
Source: http://www.bejane.com/sites/default/files/ ima g es Source: Actual MDR Photos

/uwstep11.bmp

The purpose of this method is to provide sets of thorough process for installation of padded panel all in accord
with the requirement of the designer.
a. Padded Panel is made of fabric accent walls that serve as an aesthetic of an area.
b. It gives accent to the wall and the effect of comfort and softness of an area.
c. It is express in rectangular shapes with border frames in duco finish paint.
c. It must be handled carefully; the edges should be maintained edge.
IV. Installation
a. Measure the area where padded panel be installed. Divide the area according to the designer’s
specification regarding the dimension of the padded panel.
b. Fabricate the frame. Solid wood as frame with duco paint finish of cream color. Make sure that the miter
joints are in level and squared.
c. Plywood Backing. ½ Plywood can be used as backing of the panel board make sure that it is hard enough
to carry the panel.

d. Tuck in the foam as the base of the panel. Using gun tucker/gun staple install the foam into the whole
plywood backing, this will serve as the base of the fabric.
e. Cover with the specified fabric cover. Using gun tucker/ staple make sure that the fabric is fitted and
stretched enough at the whole surface. And at the back tuck the fabric at the plywood backing.
f. Make sure the fabrics are closed. Double check if there are bubbles existed in the fabric.
g. Tuck in Velcro tape at the back of the panel. Make sure that the Velcro tape surrounds the plywood
backing.
h. Tuck in another side of Velcro tape to the wall. Where the other Velcro tape at the panel will tape in to the
Velcro tape installed in the wall.
i. Make sure the panel is tight and in tack with the wall.
V. Supervision
Installation of padded panel is carried out by the skilled and experienced upholster who have expertise in
fabric/ carpet upholstery works. They are assisted by inexperienced laborers. Their work is in turn supervised by
experienced Foremen.
secure that the carpet termination are clean.

a. Stapler
b. Hammer
c. Measuring tape
d. Work gloves
e. Foam
f. Velcro Tape
g. Stick well
h. Finishing Nails
i. ½ Plywood
a. Tucker Gun
b. Air Compressor
c. Hammer
IX. Maintenance
Padded Panel need to be vacuumed once a week and more often in areas of heavy traffic. Frequent
vacuuming prolongs the life of your fabric by preventing a buildup of gritty particles that can cut fabric fibers.
X. General

Site Construction Methodology Gypsum Boa

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Site Construction Methodology Gypsum Boa

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Site Construction Methodology

Gypsum Board Installation to Ceiling

Steel Framing Installation Actual Site Photos- Installation

Source: http://www.boral.com.au/brochures/ordering/PDF Actual Site Photo

Fixing and Suspension Component Gypsum Board Installed to Furring

Source: http://www.boral.com.au/brochures/ordering/PDF Source: http://www.boral.com.au/brochures/ordering/PDF

I. Purpose of the Method of Statement

II. Description of Work

III. Delivery, Storage and Handling

VI. Fixing Materials Used

VII. Machinery and Tools to be Used

VIII. Safety Procedures

Drywall Partition with RockWool Insulation Installation

Source: https://www.google.com.ph/search?q=boral+ Source: http://www.boral.com.au/brochures/ordering/PDF/

Sectional Detail Actual Site Photo

Source: http://www.boral.com.au/brochures/ordering/PDF/ Actual Site Photo

I. Purpose of the Method of Statement

II. Description of Work

III. Delivery, Storage and Handling

VII. Safety Procedures

Ceramic Tiles Method of Installation

Source: https://www.bca.gov.sg/Professionals.pdf Source: http://pad2.whstatic.com/images/

2. Cutting of Tiles 4. Grouting

Source:http://www.interceramicusa.com/uploads/customer- Source: Actual Site Photos

Source: http://www.interceramicusa.com/uploads/customer-resources/professional-area/ TILE_INS TALLATION.pdf

Ceramic Tiles Method of Installation

IV. Installation of Tiles

Ceramic Tiles Method of Installation

Ceramic Tiles Method of Installation

Ceramic Tiles Method of Installation

Source: http://www.interceramicusa.com/uploads/customer-resources/professional-area/TILE_INSTA LLA TION.pdf

Stone Installation to Wall Cladding

Source: https://www.google.com.ph/search?q=stone+wall Source: http://www.sampedras.com/images/fix1.png

Source: http://www.dynamic-cladding.com/img/stone- Source: https://www.google.com.ph/search?q=stone+wall

I. Purpose of the Method Statement

II. Description of Work

III. Delivery, Storage and Handling

k. Stone will be cut behind to provide for the fasteners

VI. Fixing Materials Used

VII. Machinery and Tools to be Used

VIII. Safety Procedures

Paint Swatches Applying Compound

Source: http://www.greenprophet.com/wpcontent/ u Source: http://www.boral.com.au/brochures/ordering/PDF/

Materials Actual Application

Source: http://www.painterclick.com/images/painting-tip_1.gif Source: http://www.21stcenturytexas.com/wp-content/upl

I. Purpose of the Method Statement

II. Description of Work

III. Delivery, Storage and Handling

Painting Procedure to Gypsum Board (Latex)

b. Priming: A primer tinted close to the specified color finish.

Painting Procedure to Gypsum Board (Latex)

VI. Materials Used IN Preparation

a. Tape Gauge/Wire Mesh Tape for jointing gypsum board together.

VII. Machinery and Tools to be Used

Painting Procedure to Concrete Wall (Latex)

Source: http://pad2.whstatic.com/images/thumb/6 6e/ Paint-a- Source: http://www.featurepics.com/FI/Thumb300/20 10071 9/

Source: http://cimg2.ibsrv.net/cimg/www.doityourself. com/ 450 Source: http://painter-cremorne.street-directory.Com.au/Images

I. Purpose of the Method Statement

Painting Procedure to Concrete Wall (Latex)

VII. Machinery and Tools to be Used

a. Wear appropriate safety equipment, such as gloves and goggles.

Painting Procedure to Concrete Wall (Latex)

Source: https://pro.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/ Source: http://www.megahowto.com/wp-content/

Source: http://pad1.whstatic.com/images/thumb/c/c1 /Varnish- Source: http://img.archiexpo.com/images_ae/photo-