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Garland Ledbetter
Instructor Oberg
Language Arts 11
7 January 2019
Coffee is a major crop, gown in many different regions of the world. It is one of the
largest commodities in the world, second to oil. Coffee’s conventional market prices, otherwise
known as C-market prices are manipulated by the stock market, based on the supply and
demand. Twenty years ago, a push for more tasteful coffee, called the third wave, encouraged
farmers to produce a higher quality coffee bean. I wanted to learn more about coffee; is it worth
the farmer time to grow any kind, let alone produce a higher quality bean for not much more
return? Many farmers aren’t being paid a livable wage to continue to grow coffee, especially
when you consider the time and work that goes into producing one single pound of specialty
coffee.
Coffee has a very close bond to its surrounding environment. Some of the best coffee is
grown in the mountains, and more rural areas with uneven terrain. In order to be considered a
specialty coffee farm, coffee must be grown 1200 feet above sea level. Growing coffee is a lot of
manual labor for these farmers, hand picking, hand pruning, along with hand fertilizing. The
coffee farmers have limited tools, preventing them from a more mechanized system. Marianella
told me that she uses machetes to cut weeds in five to ten acres. There are many diseases that
can wipe out the plants in days. One type of disease is called roya, is a fungus of the order
(Ledbetter 2)
Pucciniales that causes coffee leaf rust (CLR), a disease that is devastating to susceptible coffee
plantations. It’s a hard task, but it is where the best coffee is grown, usually ensuring a larger
return. This is where the conventional market price starts to become an issue. The C-market
groups all types of coffee together and throwing a price per pound on it. Farmers that work extra
hard to produce the best coffee they can, and yet receive a price very similar to a coffee farm that
is mechanized.
The middle man of the sale of coffee usually doesn’t benefit the farmer. The exporters
and importers buy coffee and sell it to coffee roasters around the world. Usually the exporter or
importer will take advantage of the farmer and won’t pay them a price they deserve. An importer
might have good intentions, but they only buy the coffee they feel will sell the best. They might
go to a producer, and say they want to buy their coffee, but they want it to be the highest quality.
At the end of the season, they will come and try the different coffee’s and only purchase a small
selection, leaving the producer with pounds of coffee that they refuse to buy. With the third
wave, coffee roasters began creating the bridge connected with the producer, by purchasing
straight from the farm. In today’s day and age, how do you really know who is doing business
ethically? With social media, people can say they ethically source their coffee, and nobody can
really question them on it. Coffee roasters can buy their coffee at the C-market price, and yet
claim that they are paying for it at the ethical market value.
Specialty coffee is starting to diminish, due to how meticulous and hard it is to maintain a
coffee farm. A lot of “farmers are putting their farms up for sell, and they aren’t being purchased
to grow more coffee” (Jost). The land coffee grows on, must be up kept, and if it isn’t, it will
take up to three years before that land will produce coffee cherries again. Coffee will dissolve
into the mechanized coffee, because of the intensive, laborious work required, without a lot of
(Ledbetter 3)
return. Many farmers end up in a credit cycle, where they purchase fertilizer and tools on credit,
and pay it back after the harvest. Many times, coffee farmers don’t earn enough to pay off all
their credit from the last harvest. Many get caught in a credit cycle, where they keep growing
coffee, to pay of their debts from the last harvest, so on and so forth.
Starbucks has helped the coffee world grow, beneficially and yet in some ways hurt it.
When I was speaking with Marianella, we discussed Starbucks, and I made a negative comment
about them. She went on to talk about the many positive things Starbucks has done to help keep
coffee progressing. One major thing Starbucks has done for the industry, was made coffee sexy,
made it something desirable. Starbucks owns a farm called Hacienda Alsacia, in Costa Rica, just
15 miles from Marianella’s farm. Starbucks opened research information from their farm about
coffee to the local producers. In a sense, this is a symbiotic relationship, as both benefits.
Producers help Starbucks by helping maintain a demand for coffee, whereas Starbucks helps
them, by giving them information about the plant to better their knowledge. A few low notes
about Starbucks is they purchase huge amounts of coffee from the C-market, thus supporting it.
Starbuck’s coffee isn’t speciality coffee, it is “crappy coffee” (Jost). The negative aspect is
training the new generations that coffee needs sugar to be enjoyable. In reality, coffee can be
something full of flavor, something with a good level of acidity and sweetness.
The future of specialty coffee is diminishing at an alarming rate due to many factors, both
fixable problems, and problems that are unstoppable. Coffee’s price per pound shouldn’t be
dependent on the value of all coffee, it should be judged on the quality of the bean itself. This
alone, can help keep farmers growing coffee when they earn more money per pound. Although
Starbucks isn’t a enemy to coffee, in some ways it creates this perception. Most specialty coffee
has wonderful flavor and tasting notes. Coffee plants are super susceptible to diseases, creating
(Ledbetter 4)
unnecessary stress for the producer. This is something that is unavoidable, and unexpected,
making coffee farmers feel anxious. I want to ask you all this question, at the end of the day, do
you really care about where your coffee comes from? Do you care about the extra mile the
farmers go to produce a nice cup? And that is where I will leave you.
(Ledbetter 5)
Works cited
Hoffmann, James. The World Atlas of Coffee. New York, Firefly Books Ltd. 2018.