Fall 2010

Fall 2010

People
Seon Meditation: The Art of Harmonious Well-being
The G20 Comes to Seoul
Explore Korea
Anmyeondo: A Little Slice of Pleasure
Go For a Hike on the Baekdu-Daegan Trail

Travel
Italy in Winter
Book Review
No Place to Envy
Through the Lens
Hantaek Botanical Garden

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 Fall 2010

Contents
Editor’s Notes
3 Autumn in Korea
Editor, Suzanne Han, introduces the wonderful activities for all to enjoy during the
spectacular Korean Fall season.

People
5 Seon Meditation: The Art of Harmonious Well-Being
Misoo Jung shares the benefits of Seon Meditation. Feel better and have fun doing it
with this gentle form of meditation.

9 The G20 Comes to Seoul

Peggy Edersheim Kalb explains the Framework for Strong and Sustainable Growth,
an oft-repeated mantra for the G20.

Explore Korea
11 Anmyeondo: A Little Slice of Pleasure
Jimalee Sowell takes us on a journey to some terrific beaches and magnificent
forests as she explores this amazing area on the Yellow Sea.

14 Go For a Hike on the Baekdu-Daegan Trail

David A. Mason has travelled the remote spine of the Korean mountains. You don’t
have to be a serious hiker to visit small segments of this historic trail.

Travel
17 Italy in Winter
Lynette Hinings-Marshall visits Milan and the surrounding area during the winter sea-
son and explores its fabulous shopping and dining.

Book Review
21 No Place to Envy: Ordinary Lives in North Korea
Jimalee Sowell reviews Barbara Demick’s award winning book about North Ko-
rea and the difficult conditions experienced by ordinary residents in the city of
Chongjin.

Through the Lens

23 Hantaek Botanical Garden
Sally Bilski visits Hantaek Botanical Garden, a wonderful day trip from Seoul
spent in the amazing and diverse collection of plants from all over the world.

2
 Fall 2010

Editor’s Notes
Autumn - A great time to explore Korea

The air is getting cooler, the leaves are changing,

the rice fields are becoming golden, the sky is blue…
Autumn is a great time to get out and explore Korea. I
hope that Jimalee Sowell’s article about Anmyeondo,
an island on Korea’s west coast, and David Mason’s
article about the Baekdu-daegan, a 1,400-kilometer
mountain-system that forms the backbone of the Ko-
rean Peninsula, will inspire you to get out and see
more of this beautiful country. In our Through the
Lens, Sally Bilski shares with us some photographs
she took on a recent visit to the Hantaek Botanical
Garden, which is a great place to visit for fall foliage.
As autumn is traditionally a time for reading in Ko-
rea, we have a review of a book about North Korea.
You can also learn about an ancient meditation cul-
ture that can lead to peace of mind and good health.
And if you’re itching to get away to some other part
of the world, check out our Travel Section.
I would like to thank all our contributors, and as-
sistant editor Sally Bilski and the other members of
the arirang team.
Comments, suggestions, and contributions are
always welcome. Please feel free to contact me at
crowdhan@hotmail.com.
Happy reading!
North and South Korea combine to
form the shape of a tiger.
Suzanne Crowder-Han
Editor

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 Fall 2010

EDITOR
Suzanne Crowder-Han

ASSISTANT EDITOR
Sally Bilski

arirang is published by the

American Women’s Club of Korea by
volunteers.

All rights to any material in arirang are

held by the writer except the right to reprint.
That is held by the magazine and may be
The photo on the cover was taken by requested by writing to:
David A. Mason.
Suzanne Crowder-Han, Arirang Editor,
Chongmaek Prince Ville #201,
Each nation has its popular folk songs. They are Shindang 2-dong 432-1695,
the most basic expression of a people, a pulse of Chung-gu, Seoul, Korea 100-835.
sorts of the country's joy and sorrow. In Korea, the
best-known folk song is "Arirang," which tells of two arirang is dedicated to:
lovers parting at Arirang Pass. In addition to its wide introducing Korea to expatriate women;
popularity, the lyrics have been woven into the tap- promoting cultural exchanges;
estry of Korea's national history as a symbol of Ko- and keeping a historical record of the
rean culture. foreigner’s perspective of living in Korea.
The origin of the song is unknown, though there
are a multitude of theories. In fact, there is no one AMERICAN WOMEN’S CLUB
universal "Arirang," but many renditions with vary- Member of Federation of American Women’s Clubs
ing melodies, each with different rhythm and lyrics Overseas (FAWCO)
indigenous to a province or region of Korea. http://www.awcseoul.org
One explanation of the lyrics is that they tell the
story of Arang, the beautiful daughter of a govern-
ment official living in Milyang, who died at the hands
of the lover she had rejected. This version is also
told in reverse, being the maiden's lament at being
abandoned by her insensitive sweetheart. Another
explanation is that the words refer to a farmer's di-
lemma in meeting the deadline for paying taxes. The
refrain "A-ri-rang, a-ra-ri-o" is a meaningless melis-
ma of the fa-la-la type. It is said to have originated
when the Taewon-gun, or Prince Regent, the father
of King Kojong (r. 1863-1907), was rebuilding Kyo-
ngbok Palace, court officers sent out to solicit funds
for the building project were cynically received with
the phrase a-i-rong, "my ears are deaf."
Transformed by time and mood, the song has
meant many things to many people Under foreign
occupation and domination, it was sung surrepti-
tiously as a balm and as a promise and in later times
as a rallying song. Because the song captures the
essence of the Korean people's sentiment about their
nation and is identified with the art of storytelling The beauty of South Korea is reflected in
about Korea, its name seems an appropriate title for the many temples found in remote moun-
a magazine dedicated to helping readers learn about tain areas.
Korea and enjoy their time in the country.

4

SEON MEDITATION
The Art of Harmonious Well-Being
By Jung Misoo
Do you spend all day and sometimes all night too
in a whirlwind of thoughts? What should I fix for din-
ner, what tasks do I need to do today, what am I go-
ing to say in my upcoming meeting? Do you neglect
time for yourself?
Let’s put our thinking and busy minds to rest and
try this ancient exercise and breathing meditation
program which will get your body and mind back into
shape. You will then learn how to cultivate your mind
and body so you will obtain the power to live the life
you want to live.
History of Seon Meditation
Seon Do is Korea's several thou-
sand-year-old meditation culture.
Before Buddhism and Confucian-
ism in Korea, there was Seon.
Despite its long history, it has not
been popularly known to the out-
side world. The Korean word "Seon"
is a combination of two words--
man and mountain. The mountain
symbolizes nature as well as the
universe. Do (pronounced Doh)
means the road, the way, the path.
Seon’s goal is, in short, to attain
peace by fully knowing and lov-
5
Fall 2010
ing yourself (humankind) and to preserve nature by
knowing and loving it.
Seon culture aims to pursue a community, by way
of meditation and well-being living, where human
beings, nature, and the universe coexist harmoni-
ously. It originated from ancient East Asia, and it
was already a life tradition of the people and a state
ideology during the period of Gochosun over 5,000
years ago. Seon culture was formed during the Go-
chosun period and has been with the Korean people
from that time to the present.
What is Seon meditation?
Seon meditation is mainly de-
signed for balancing your body
and mind through five elements
Seon exercises and Danjeon
breathing.
Five elements exercises
In Asian culture, the five ele-
ments (Tree, Fire, Soil, Metal,
and Water) describe interactions
and relationships between phe-
nomena and represent all things
in the world, e.g., the seasons,

people, sounds, and movement. Five elements Seon
exercise is an exercise program that relaxes muscles
and joints through motions such as shaking, tap-
ping, rubbing, extending or pulling. This exercise
also stimulates acupoints in the body and makes the
circulation of blood and energy flow smoothly. While
Western styles of physical exercise have developed
by focusing on the movements of muscles and joints,
five elements energy exercises have developed with
an emphasis on how to establish control and accu-
mulate invisible vital energy.
The principles of five elements exercises are based
on the understanding of the human body in the field
of traditional oriental medicine. In traditional orien-
tal medicine, there are 12 meridian channels in the
body. Human organs and body parts interact with
one another through these channels.
For example, the stomach is connected to the
thighs and knees through the meridian channel. So
to improve the functions of the stomach one should
do energy exercises which strengthen the thighs
and knees. The heart is linked to the forearms and
elbows through the energy channels, thus exercis-
es that make the forearms and elbows strong will
strengthen the heart. And the effects are immediate!
However these movements are not aimed at mus-
cular strength but at vital energy. That is why these
exercises are composed of slow movements of parts
Jung Misoo, Director
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Fall 2010
of the body. Slow movements are helpful to strength-
ening and smoothing the flow of internal energy.
But exercise itself is not enough. The body is an
energy system. It's composed of 20% matter and
80% mind. We need to find fundamental mental
comfort to balance the body.
So the effects of Seon exercise doubles when you
perform these exercises with Danjeon breathing.
When you practice Danjeon breathing, vital energy
is accumulated in the body. The accumulated energy
makes each movement powerful, and thus slow dy-
namic exercises will bring much more desirable re-
sults when properly combined with Danjeon breath-
ing.
What is Danjeon Breathing?
There are three kinds of breathing: chest breath-
ing which concentrates on the chest area, abdomi-
nal breathing which extends our lungs, and Danjeon
breathing which focuses on the area three inches
below the belly button. Newborn babies breathe
through their Danjeon.
East Asian culture believes that the Danjeon is
shaped like a pottery vase and that its function is
to gather vital energy while you meditate. Breath-
ing from the Danjeon pulls in 5-6 times more oxy-

gen and regenerates aging cells. It helps you to have
natural healing power. Danjeon breathing can also
change one’s brain waves.
Benefits of Seon Meditation
Meditation not only controls our emotions but
changes our brain waves. Various medical studies in
America have shown that 10 minutes of meditation
can produce alpha waves in the brain. Why are alpha
waves important? Alpha waves produce the natural
healing ability of the body, provide relaxation, and
enhance innate creativity. Meditation taps into these
alpha waves which is why it’s so important. One can
relax, sleep, feel less tension and emotional stress
when these waves are sustained by Danjeon breath-
ing throughout the day.
Through Seon meditation, you will find your body’s
and mind’s natural balance. This is the starting point
to control yourself and realize your own creativity.
Fall 2010
You will experience complete rest and peace within
you. You will feel joy in everyday living.
Seon meditation is the art of harmonious well-be-
ing. Breathe deeply and make every day a creative
journey, not a guided tour.
Jung Misoo worked as a plant project manager in the
Middle East for 8 years. Five years ago she returned to Seoul
and changed her life direction to meditation. She is Director
of the Suseonjae Health and Meditation Center, Foreigner’s
branch, and also an instructor at the Center. Suseonjae pro-
vides meditation and breathing programs designed to pro-
mote health, well-being, internal strength and will-power
and eventually lead to that special self within you.

Members in a meditation pose.

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 Fall 2010
Examples of a few of the five elements exercises: (for additional exercises and additional
information go to: http://suseonjae.org)

Bouncing on Heels (Minister Fire/ Shoulder Ups (Fire/Heart) Toe smacking (Soil, Minister fire/
Nerve, Immune system) Stomach, nervous system)

Place both legs shoulder-width apart
and lift your heels up and down
without touching the floor; at the
same time breathe down your body
and out your feet.
With legs shoulder-width apart, lift the
shoulders up and down.
Good for stiff shoulders.
In a seated position, stretch your legs
forward as far as possible and smack
them together.
Good for sleep disorders.

Releases toxics and makes the body

lighter

Create a calm and peaceful environment before you begin.

8
 Fall 2010

THE G20 COMES TO SEOUL

By Peggy Edersheim Kalb

In mid-November the 20 leaders of the most eco- footing. The Framework for Strong and Sustainable
nomically powerful countries in the world will meet Growth, agreed to at the Pittsburgh Summit, has be-
in Seoul at the fifth Group of 20 (G20) Leaders Sum- come an oft-repeated mantra for the G20. Reform of
mit. In the days during, before and after, the city the financial regulatory and supervisory systems—to
will play host to their finance ministers and central spot another crisis before it becomes a crisis, and
bank governors, heads of some of the world’s most reform of international financial institutions—will
influential international organizations, including the also be on the agenda; both are moving along ac-
International Monetary Fund and the World Bank, as cording to timelines agreed to at earlier summits.
well as countless members of the diplomatic delega- The recent debt crisis in Greece and subsequent fall-
tions and thousands of journalists. out for the other euro zone countries, has lead to a
Although the leaders of the Group of 20 countries greater emphasis on fiscal sustainability as well, with
have been meeting regularly since 2008, it was only the G20 now calling for “growth friendly policies in
last year that they decided to hold annual meetings a framework of fiscal sustainability.” At the Toronto
going forward, cementing the role of the G20 Sum- Summit in June, governments agreed to significantly
mit as an informal steering committee for the world
economy. And the November Seoul Summit marks
the first G20 Leaders Summit in a country that isn’t
traditionally considered a member of the advanced
countries (the G8: United States, United Kingdom,
Germany, France, Italy, Japan, Canada, Russia).
For Korea in general and Seoul in particular, this
is an unparalleled opportunity to show how far the
city and the country have come as a country that
only recently evolved from being an aid recipient to
an aid donor. Now, as Chair of the Summit for 2010,
the Korean government has been producing issue
papers, drafting communiqués and helping to coor-
dinate agreements through all the meetings leading
up to the Summit itself. At the top of the agenda
for the Seoul Summit: ensuring that the less-than-
robust global economic recovery gets on a firmer Delegates from 2009 G20

9
 Fall 2010

decrease debt by 2013. Korea has added two initia- weeks, the G20 presidential committee will launch
tives to the G20 agenda, both reflecting its unique its English language website, offering insight and up-
position as a bridge between the so-called developed dates on G20 activities, as well as a guide for tourists
countries and the emerging countries. Having just in town for the occasion.
recently joined the OECD (Organization for Econom-
ic Cooperation and Development), Koreans bring a
different perspective to developing infrastructure
and markets. By introducing the concept of a global
safety net, Korea is hoping to minimize the spillover
effect when large financial institutions overseas run
into trouble. For example, a large bank in a devel-
oped country goes under; panicked investors pull liq-
uid assets from a perceived riskier investment, often
in emerging markets, leading to a liquidity crisis in
relatively small countries far from the original prob-
lem.
Ideally, Korea would also like to see the G20 de-
vote more resources to building a lasting economic
infrastructure in developing countries, replacing the
traditional aid-based paradigm. The poorer countries
would be better able to sustain their own growth,
and the potential growth of developing economies
could boost global growth.
Finally, a hundred or so CEOs will be in town just
before the Seoul Summit, to attend a Korea led Busi-
ness Summit. President Lee Myeung-bak has made Students prepare to welcome G20
it clear that a strong recovery will have to be led by Summit delegates.
the private sector; the Business Summit has been
designed to figure out ways to shift from a govern- Peggy Edersheim Kalb is a writer based in Seoul. She is
ment led recovery to a private sector led recovery. currently Chief Editor for the Presidential Committee for the
If you have family or friends who want to come to G20 and has written for the Wall Street Journal, New York
town in November, you might want to suggest they Magazine and Smart Money, among other publications. She
come before or after. Hotels are likely to be fully is also the former producer of CNN’s Moneyline and Busi-
booked and traffic—during the two days of the ac-
ness Morning and co-authored a book on international in-
tual Summit—could be tough. It will be a good time
to get to know the subway system. In the coming
vesting with her husband, Scott Kalb.
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 Fall 2010

ANMYEONDO
A Little Slice of Pleasure
By Jimalee Sowell

Anmyeondo is a mid-size island (according to sta-

tistics, it is Korea’s sixth largest) in Taean-gun Coun-
ty in Chungcheongnam-do Province on Korea’s west
coast. If you look at a map of Korea, it’s at about
the midpoint of the country. It was once a peninsula
attached to the mainland, but it was cut off to make
a canal during the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910)
and was bridged in 1970. But what you really need to
know about Anmyeondo is why you should go there.
Go to Anmyeondo for the fresh air, the picturesque
green rolling hills and fields dotted with orange and
blue rooftops. Go to Anmyeondo to walk among the
pine trees. Go to Anmyeondo to see some of Ko-
rea’s famous sunset beaches. Go to Anmyeondo to
see lots of green. Go to Anmyeondo to do some fly-
ing. Go to Anmyeondo to enjoy sensual spa treat-
ments. But mostly go to Anmyeondo to get away for
a while. Anmyeondo is a resort area, and making you
feel that you are away from it all—even for a short
while—is what it does best.

Where to go/What to do there

Visit famous sunset places/west coast beaches.
There are many swimming beaches on the west coast
of Anmyeondo. Hae-soo-yoke-jang means swimming
beach and will likely be indicated on maps with para-
sols. These beaches are also known for beautiful sun-
sets: KKotchi Beach, possibly ranking as the most
well-known, with Bangpo Beach and Sambong Beach Anmyeondo Recreational Forest
being close runners-up. Keep in mind, though, that
11

while these beaches are called swimming beaches,
they may not be what you would expect in a swim-
ming beach. Rather than seeing lots of bikini-clad
sunbathers, you’re more likely to see Koreans with
their trowels and buckets digging up shellfish and
crabs when the tide is low. KKotchi Beach is known
for two rock formations lovingly called Grandmother
Rock and Grandfather Rock that jut out from the sea
and are completely exposed during low tide. A quick
Internet search on Anmyeondo will let you know this
is the beach to visit and photograph.
Walk through a recreational forest. The Anmyeondo
Recreational Forest, pronounced Ja-yeon Hyoo-yang-
rim, on Anmyeondo is a must-see place. It is known
for its rare red pine trees called Anmyeonsong that
have reportedly been growing on the island since the
Joseon Dynasty. Take a walk among the trees. Feel
small again while you breathe the fresh pine-scented
air. There are several well-mapped trails with cours-
es for every fitness level ranging from one kilome-
ter to three kilometers. There’s also a small museum
that provides information about the trees, plants,
animals, and insects that live in the forest. Outside
the museum is a zoo—well, a cage really—of exotic
birds (peacocks) and not-so-exotic birds (chickens).
The recreational forest is a great place to visit for
those cutting back on entertainment expenditures as
the entrance fee is only 1,000 KRW per adult and
a mere 400 to 800 KRW for children depending on
age. If you’re up for sleeping in the woods, you can
KKotchi Beach is perfect for beachcombers. Hunt for clams at low tide
or wander down the beach in search of shells.
12
Fall 2010
also rent a log cabin in the forest for a very reason-
able price, and large groups are accommodated. Call
041-674-5019 (only in Korean) far in advance for
reservations or make a reservation online at http://
www.anmyonhuyang.go.kr/ (only in Korean).
Go fly a plane. Really! For those of you who have
always had that fantasy about being in the cockpit—
here’s your chance. I’m not kidding, yes, without a
pilot’s license, you can enjoy the thrill of flight. Aero
Tour operates a flight school on Anmyeondo, and this
is where you can learn to man the controls of a light
sports plane. For information about how to make a
reservation with Aero Tour and other details, go to
http://www.expatflyers.net/airplane.html (in Eng-
lish).
Take a cruise. If you’re up for a cruise, you can
choose from the inner cruise that will take you along
the east coast of the island or the outer cruise that
will take you along the west coast. For the inner
cruise, call 041-675-5220 (only in Korean). For the
outer cruise, call 041-674-1603 (only in Korean).

Food
Like most islands and coastal areas, the specialty
food in Anmyeondo is fresh seafood. In particular,
Anmyeondo is known for prawn and blue crab. You’ll
find the best seafood restaurants near the beaches.
But if you’re not a seafood fan, you can find a rela-
tively good selection of Korean restaurants as well as
chicken and pizza places in the downtown area.
When to go
Anmyeondo is a nice place to visit any time of year,
but keep in mind that the rainy season is in June and
July. Although this might mean just light afternoon
showers, a heavy downpour could prevent you from
getting good sunset pictures and being able to fly.
Where to stay
You’ll have no trouble finding a place to stay as
the island is literally filled with accommodations for
visitors, and there’s something to suit every taste
and budget. The hotels near the bus terminal are in
a great location for getting to the recreational for-
est and KKotchi Beach. The first four websites below
have extensive lists of pensions. A pension is a fan-
cier sort of accommodation that is more homey than
a motel and usually equipped with a kitchen, and
other accommodations, albeit in Korean. If you’re in
the mood for a spa treatment, try the Ocean Castle
Grandmother and Grandfather Rocks are easily hiked at low tide and are lovely in their
isolation when the tide is high.
You can find information about Anmyeondo at
these websites:www.anmyon.net (Korean); www.
anmyondo.com (Korean);www.anmyondo.org (Ko-
rean); www.anmyondo.co.kr (Korean);www.taean.
go.kr/html/en/ (English); www.asia-planet.net/ko-
rea/chungcheongnam-do.htm (English)
13
Fall 2010
Aquaworld Resort where you can indulge yourself
in indoor and outdoor sulfur spas and mud baths.
Contact the resort at 041-671-7000 or check out
their website at http://www.resom.co.kr/eng/ocean/
info_01.html (in English and Korean).
Transportation
There are always plenty of taxis near the Taean
Bus Terminal (041-674-2009, in Korean only), and
there’s a bus stop for local buses near the terminal.
How to get there
From Seoul, you can take a public bus for Tae-
an from the Express Bus Terminal (subway line 3).
Travel time is approximately two and a half hours
and tickets from Seoul are 10,000 KRW. Buses from
Seoul to Taean run every 20 minutes from 6:30 am
to 7:10 pm.
If you prefer to drive, there are three routes from
Seoul to choose from and it usually takes between
two and three hours depending on the route. The
three routes are:
• Seoul>Seohaean Expressway>Seosan IC or
Haemi IC>Taean (2 hours)
• SeoulGyeongbu Expressway>Pyeongtak>Sapgy-
ocheon>Dangjin>Seosan>Taean (2 hours 30 min-
utes)
• Seoul>Cheonan>Onyang>Yesan(Deoksan)>
Seosan>Taean (3 hours)
Jimalee Sowell has lived in Korea since 1999. She worked at
a language school for a year and a half, at Daelim College for
eight years, and is now working at Seoul National University.
 Fall 2010

GO FOR A HIKE
On the Baekdu-Daegan Trail, the Spine of Korea
By David Mason

The world has around two dozen long-distance

hiking-trails, including famous tracts like America’s
Appalachian Trail and New Zealand’s Milford Track,
and there is now a fresh addition to the list right
here in South Korea. Many of the international resi-
dents here may not have heard of the Baekdu-dae-
gan Trail, as it has just recently been burgeoning into
the public consciousness of outdoors-loving Koreans
themselves. Ask your Korean friends and co-work-
ers, and you’ll find they probably have at least heard
of it—and maybe are surprised that an international
resident is asking about it.
All of the long-distance trails around the globe offer
their trekkers spectacular vistas and intimate experi-
ences of deep wilderness. The Baekdu-daegan Trail
has plenty of that, but is nearly unique in the amount
of traditional cultural sites that are also found along
the way. A remarkably-high percentage of aspects of
Korea’s history, religious culture and folk-tales are on
display in hundreds of sites on or close to the trail.
Exploring the Baekdu-daegan becomes a powerful
discovery of this nation’s energetic Buddhist, Sha-
manistic, Confucian, Nationalist and Christian beliefs, The Baekdu-daegan or “White-head
which emanate their reverence from the hundreds Great-ridge” is a 1,400-kilometer moun-
of temples, shrines, doltap cairns (pagodas of oiled tain-system.
stones), ancient and modern monuments, stone- are eager to show you their culture and lifestyle and
carved buddhas, churches and altars that decorate explain the significance of the sites. Shamans, farm-
the ridgeline, slopes and valleys. The friendly Kore- ers, herb-gatherers and fellow hikers, are eager to
ans you will meet along the way, including monks, show you their culture and lifestyle and explain the
shamans, farmers, herb-gatherers and fellow hikers, significance of the sites.
14

The Baekdu-daegan or “White-head Great-ridge”
is a 1,400-kilometer mountain-system that forms
the backbone of the Korean Peninsula. It starts on
the peninsula’s highest feature and fount of mytholo-
gy, Mt. Baekdu-san, which is a dormant volcano with
a gigantic crater-lake that sits on the current bor-
der between China and North Korea. From there the
range-line runs south down the east coast of North
Korea, becoming what is called the Taebaek (Grand
White) Range, entering South Korea through the
barb-wired frontier of the DMZ just north of Seor-
ak-san National Park, and then staying close to the
coast all the way down to mystic Taebaek-san on the
border between the Gangwon and North Gyeongsang
provinces. It then turns west toward central South
Stunning views are the reward for the
often strenuous climbs on the remote
mountain spines.
15
Fall 2010
Korea, becoming what is called the Sobaek (Smaller
White) Range, and when it reaches the middle of this
nation it turns back south until it ends at South Ko-
rea’s highest mainland peak, the Cheonwang-bong
of Jiri-san National Park.
This ridgeline is genuine in that it never crosses
water, and is therefore the origin and disperser of all
streams and rivers along the peninsula. Assisting
the Baekdu-daegan with water-management are 14
subsidiary-ranges known as jeong-maek that chan-
nel all of Korea’s major rivers into its flanking seas.
The Baekdu-daegan’s geographical territory there-
fore includes most of Korea’s highest peaks, many
of which have been regarded as holy places since
ancient times. The sacred virtues of the mountains
of Korea were historically recorded by early Korean
scholars and Buddhists more than a thousand years
ago, and the topography of this nation is recognized
as a living entity consisting of mountains that pro-
vide the water that sustains our lives. This has been
a constant theme in Korea’s cultural development
and the sense of itself as a single nation.
The idea of hiking along the crest-line of the Baek-
du-daegan seems to have developed only as recently
as the 1980s, as South Korea’s modern hiking-cul-
ture flourished. It has become a very popular activity
among the many public and private mountain-hiking
associations (sanak-hoi), with strong patriotic over-
tones. Most people seem to begin down at Jiri-san
and hike northward, both for keeping the sun gener-
ally behind you for better viewing and for the con-
cept of trekking toward Mt. Baekdu, reluctantly stop-
ping at the DMZ, in a gesture of desire for national
reunification.
Within South Korea there is now a trail, well-es-
tablished and marked in some parts and still rather
wild in others, extending for 735 kilometers. It pass-
es through seven national parks and four provincial
parks, although some of its crest-line sections in the
national parks have been temporarily closed for na-
ture preservation concerns (alternative pathways
can be used). Some parts of this trail are quite dif-
ficult, repeatedly climbing up and down rough rocky
peaks, but others feature gentler terrain with long
winding ridges that anyone in good shape can enjoy.
There are many Buddhist temples to be found on
the slopes beneath the trail, some of which are grand
monasteries offering the popular Temple-Stay pro-
gram. This creates an opportunity to combine trek-
king with overnight stays learning about Korea’s
Buddhist culture—a new kind of pilgrimage.
The best times of the year to walk on the Baekdu-
daegan Trail are April through June and September
through November—winters are too cold and snowy,
while summers are too hot, humid and rainy for most
people to endure.
Most of us don’t have the freedom or energy to
do the whole thing at once in a grand two-month

trek. Fortunately, it’s easy to accomplish sections of
it on weekends and holidays, and most of the Korean
Baekdu-daegan hiking-associations are employing
that strategy, their members committing to complet-
ing the great trail within about three years. Interna-
tional residents can just enjoy hiking short parts of
it, wherever interests them most.
Trailheads for entering and leaving the range-line
are found at the more than two dozen passes that
national and provincial highways run over, easily ac-
cessible from the bus terminals or train stations of
rural towns. Some sections of the trail are relatively
remote wilderness, where you can see some of Ko-
rea’s rare wild animals but you won’t find many of
the comforts of civilization. Other parts of the trail
run past or through villages that contain restaurants
and tea houses for the hikers, and plenty of minbak
rooms to sleep in (a minbak is a countryside house
that rents its extra rooms to travellers, at fairly low
rates; the owners rarely speak English). There are
often rest areas including markets and restaurants
up on the passes, and usually yeogwan (motels)
nearby down the road.
Roger Shepherd, David A. Mason, Andrew Douch
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Fall 2010
Guidebooks and maps in Korean are widely avail-
able, and the more popular sections of the trail en-
joy increasingly better signage in both Korean and
English, often posted by the local governments or
the Korea Forest Service. There is now one detailed
guidebook in English, written by my two partners
with my assistance, and a website in English devot-
ed to this mountain range and its trail—see www.
baekdu-daegan.com.
For international residents of Korea, hiking in the
Baekdu-daegan region offers some of the best op-
portunities to experience some of the best parts of
the nation outside of the big cities, featuring some of
its most-interesting cultural sites and nicest people.
It's also a very low-cost and health-promoting way
to spend some of your free time. You can experi-
ence amazing views, spiritual shrines, shy wildlife,
colorful mountain-spirit paintings, delicious hard-
earned meals, lofty peaks and waterfall-filled gorges
all along the Baekdu-daegan long-distance trail. And
much still remains to be discovered out there.
David A. Mason is a Professor of Korean Tourism at
Seoul’s Kyung Hee University, and researcher on the re-
ligious characteristics of Korea's mountains. He has au-
thored six books on Korean culture and tourism; see his
websites http://www.san-shin.org/ http://zozayong.com/
and http://baekdu-daegan.com/.

ITALY IN WINTER
Christmas Markets and Roasted Chestnuts,
Cultural Events and No Crowds
By Lynette Hinings-Marshall
I fell in love with Italy when I saw Fellini’s “La Dol-
ce Vita” and have visited several times in summer
since. I have fond memories of sipping chianti ac-
companied by antipasti of local salamis and crostini,
but as there were also long queues and shoulder to
shoulder crowds I decided to discover what Italy was
like in winter.
Teatro La Scala in Milan was the starting point be-
cause here the opera season opens December 7, the
feast day of Saint Ambrogio. Some older Milanese
still call themselves Ambrogians and the Basilica
Saint Ambrogio, built in A.D. 379, and named after
this patron saint of Milan, was on our must-see list. I
had secured excellent box seats via La Scala’s online
booking and I particularly wanted to see the 35-year-
old British conductor Daniel Harding because reviews
about him are so mixed. After experiencing his inter-
pretation of Stravinsky I am definitely a fan.
What is Italy without cathedrals? My favorite was
the Milan Duomo, the third largest church in the
world. It’s mixture of styles from the first level ba-
roque to the neo-Gothic windows and spires have
come about because it was started in 1386, conse-
crated in 1418 but not completed until Napoleon was
crowned King of Italy in the 19th century. We walked
through the entrance immediately upon arrival and
after viewing the beautiful nativity scene followed
the guide book’s directions through this magnificent
edifice to the vault above the choir. Here, a red light
17
Fall 2010
marks the location of a nail from Christ’s cross that
has been kept safely in this spot since 1461.
The Duomo is only one highlight of the Piazza del
Duomo and on the left perimeter is the elegant Galle-
ria Vittoria Emmanuele II. This iron and glass-domed
atrium houses elegant arcades of cafes, shops and
the famous Milanese restaurant, Savini. We started
one evening with a Campari at Zucca in the Galleria
where this Italian cocktail was created in the late
1800s. Directly opposite the Duomo is Teatro La Sca-
la and we spent some evenings, rugged up against
the cold, just gazing upon these three magnificent
architectural monuments. The Duomo in particular
when brilliantly lit against the deep blue night sky is
radiant and resplendent.
Milan is a small city and one day we started at the
medieval Castello Sforzesco, walked to Leonardo da
Vinci’s Last Supper (tickets need to be booked well
in advance) then on to Saint Ambrogio. As we were
now in the fashionable Navigli district we stopped
frequently at attractive bars and restaurants. It was
here I learned that Italians stand at counters to drink
their espresso because sitting at a table incurs a €2
surcharge. The pedestrian quarter of Brera is the
other main entertainment district. Mid-afternoon we
visited Pinacoteca di Brera art gallery to view the
masters including Raphael and Caravaggio so that
we could remain in the Brera district for dinner. Many
restaurants in this pedestrian quarter lure patrons

with an American-style happy hour offering two-for-
one drinks and large platters of complimentary food
but we chose Trattoria Il Molo that specializes in sea-
food and has occupied the same premises for more
than 70 years. We did drop into the Jamaica café in
Brera for a drink and salad one day and after attend-
ing the performance at La Scala went to the Victoria
Café. After a few days sightseeing and dining it was
time for fashion.
I had visited Prada in the Galleria but no woman
could leave Milan without visiting the famous fash-
ion street of Via Montenapoleone. We started at the
crowded counter in the historic Cova for our un caffe
and un cornetto then ventured into Versace, Gucci,
Dolce & Gabbana and several other designer bou-
tiques. After experiencing serious sticker shock my
husband was visibly relieved when I told him I was
only checking the prices because the Serravalle de-
signer outlet stores offer the major designers’ prod-
ucts at substantial discounts. Getting to Serravalle
was easy because their coach departs daily from
downtown Milan and is worth a visit if you have a
day to spare and enjoy brand-name shopping.
We took advantage of travelling off season by rent-
ing via the online site www.homelidays.co.uk a large
two-storey, two-bedroom apartment in the heart of
the city for the same cost as a tiny hotel room dur-
Milan offers a spectacular shopping experience,
Versace, and so much more.
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Fall 2010
ing tourist season. The owner welcomed us with a
bottle of Italian champagne and a beautifully pack-
aged Panettone. My favorite legend about the origin
of Panettone is how Ughetta, a young nun celebrated
Christmas by adding sugar, butter, candied fruit and
raisins (in Milanese dialect the word for raisin hap-
pens to be ughetta) to the dough, then made the
sign of the cross on the top to bless it. The owner
of our apartment had also booked both Christmas
Eve dinner and Christmas Day luncheon for us as
we wanted somewhere traditional and authentic.
When we arrived the apartment owner patiently ex-
plained how to get to both Lake Como and Bergamo
by public transport and even helped with taxi book-
ings to the restaurants. The Christmas day luncheon
was the highlight of our trip even though the local
families who did not speak English stared at us as if
unaccustomed to strangers at their annual ritual. But
they made us feel welcome and the memory of the
Sardinian style mouth-watering food and delicious
wines that kept appearing on our table for more than
four hours still lingers.
Bergamo, the sixth century town at the foothills
of the Alps, was our first full day excursion and we
visited during the Saint Lucia Fair which is a family
event. Following the crowd along the Sentierone, we
ate polenta taragna (polenta sprinkled with grated
Bitto cheese and covered with melted butter)and
our first roasted chestnuts. The traditional Christmas
market in Lower Bergamo was tempting as so many
of the items, particularly the wooden toys and pup-
pets, were hand-made. We next visited Donizetti’s
house then took the funicular to Upper Bergamo.
When we hopped off at the Piazza Mercato delle
Scarpe we were immediately immersed in a magical
atmosphere. Pastry shop windows filled with ginger-
bread houses, fashionable wine bars, several tavo-
la caldas (cafeteria-style restaurants) with a huge
variety of both savory and sweet snacks lined the
cobblestone medieval alleyways, but kept walking to
ensure enough time at the Monastery of Saint Agos-
tine and Colleoni Chapel. Our lunch of Risotto alla
Milanese (risotto made with chopped onion flavored
with saffron and grated Parmesan cheese) was at a
restaurant that clung to the side of the mountain and
this magnificent view of Bergamo, along with excel-
lent food made it difficult to leave. We ended our
day at the Palazzo della Ragione and finally the San
Vigilio Castle before heading back down to the train
station at Lower Bergamo for our one hour journey
back to Milan.
The Lakes District is also only an hour from Mi-
lan and we had decided upon Lake Como. After we
passed through several tunnels the bright sunlight
sparkled on the snow-capped mountains and the
lake seemed larger without a flurry of boats and peo-
ple, the summer scene I remembered. We arrived at
Varenna and took a ferry to Bellagio which was quiet
and shuttered for the winter. We found a pleasant
café for lunch then caught the local bus to Como.

The elegant Galleria Vittoria Emmanuele II. This iron and glass-domed atrium
houses elegant arcades of cafes and shops.
This bus ride for less than €2 was a highlight because
the route took us within meters of the lake for the
entire journey. The main streets of the villages en
route were barely wider than the bus, which stopped
for passengers, who obviously used the service for
their daily needs. After sightseeing in Como we had
an interesting dinner of rabbit stew and pumpkin
flowers before boarding the train back to Milan.
It was time to head south and as we had now
learned that Italian trains are well below par by most
Western standards we booked a Euro Star high-
speed service to take us to Florence. Our plan was to
set up a base in Florence and visit Tuscany. Because
every site in Florence is accessible by walking and
trains and buses are frequent within Tuscany we pre-
ferred not to hire a car. Drizzling rain fell during our
first day in Florence so we visited the Palazzo Vec-
chio where the copy of Michelangelo’s David stands.
Around the corner we visited the Uffizi, the oldest
gallery in the world and spent hours awestruck by
the art by Titan, Botticelli, Michelangelo and the fa-
mous Piero della Francesca’s panels, recognized as
the first true Renaissance portraits. Friends suggest-
ed a visit to the Pitti Gola e Cantinia wine bar and as
the village of Montepulciano was not on our itinerary
it was at this bar that we first sampled Vino Nobile
wines. These were accompanied by a dish of ravioli
with pecorino and pears and crostini which we later
walked off starting at the Ponte Vecchio. It was fun
to window shop all the jewelers that line the bridge
19
Fall 2010
but I was more interested in Via de’ Tornabuoni’s
designer stores with an emphasis on shoes as this is
the site of Ferragamo’s Shoe Museum. We spent the
remainder of the afternoon walking through the area
of town that houses the church of San Lorenzo, the
Medici’s Tombs, the Duomo and the Baptistery.
Next day, with a promise of sun, we boarded the
train to Siena. Having previously experienced the
dense and jostling summer crowds in Siena it was
a welcome relief to stroll with space on the cobble-
stone streets to sightsee and window shop. On our
way to Piazza del Campo we stopped to buy coffee
beans from Café A. Naninni where we enjoyed un
caffe and of course the famous torta garfagnana
(tarts and cakes). Close by the Piazza del Campo we
enjoyed a lunch of salt cod soup and another bot-
tle of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano before walking
to the Duomo. We then climbed the tower around
the corner to view the Piazza del Campo from above
and photographed a magnificent 360 degree view of
Siena and the surrounding countryside before board-
ing a bus to San Gimingnano.
San Gimignano is known as “the city of beautiful
towers” and is one of the best-preserved medieval
towns in Tuscany. The towers that welcomed pilgrims
as far back as the 13th century still stand today. The
Piazza del Duomo was our starting point and as we
had by now visited many cathedrals, galleries and
medieval towers we chose to just enjoy the small
shops and sights until darkness fell and we settled
 Fall 2010
into a cozy restaurant we had booked in advance.
Against all my instincts, I was pleased that I tried
the pasta and pigeon sauce served on creamy mush-
rooms.
Our Italian winter holiday was drawing to a close
and I spent an entire day walking the markets of
Florence shopping for souvenirs and buying shoes
along Via del Corso while my husband took a recom-
mended tour of Renaissance Florence. On our final
day we took the train to Western Tuscany to see the
iconic Leaning Tower of Pisa. There were people mill-
ing about the grounds but fortunately no queues to
enter it, so we were able to tour immediately. We
then boarded another train to Northern Tuscany to
visit the popular beach resort of Viareggio which is
famous for its Art Nouveau villas and hotels of the
1920s. We strolled along Viareggio’s promenade and
then enjoyed a leisurely Sunday lunch at Da Oliviera
so we could try their Cacciucco alla Viareggina (sea-
food stew). This bright sunny Sunday was the per-
fect arrivederci to Italy and next day we flew home
happy and relaxed.
We had been able to see so much more during this
visit as we never had to wait in line, and we spent
more time strolling because we weren’t constantly
buffeted by tourists along the narrow streets. It was
also less expensive than previous trips because ac-
commodations and meals were considerably less
than during tourist season. Winter touring is not for
everybody but it worked well for us and if you are
prepared for a little inclement weather it can work
well for you too.

Lynette Hinings-Marshall has travelled abroad every

year since her 19th birthday and has lived for long peri-
ods in Australia, Cyprus, Puerto Rico, Korea, the Unit-
ed States, Mexico and Malaysia. She has a Diploma One of the many wonders of Western
in Professional Writing and Editing and is currently Tuscany is the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
writing a textbook for the tour guiding profession.

The sky above Siena’s Piazza del Campo brings the warm tones of the
skyline into a sharp focus.

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 Fall 2010

NOTHING TO ENVY
Ordinary Lives in North Korea
By Barbara Demick

Reviewed by Jimalee Sowell

If you only read one book on North Korea, read

Nothing to Envy. Of course, we all have heard of
the inhumane conditions average North Koreans
endure—the starvation, the prison camps, the ex-
tensive torture for even the smallest infractions. We
have read horrific stories about North Korea in the
news, and we have seen the heartbreaking photos
of starving adults and malnourished children with
heads too big for their bodies. We know conditions
are bad in North Korea, but nothing will give you an
appreciation for what life is like for the average North
Korean like Nothing to Envy. And the reality of life
in North Korea is far worse than is imaginable. This
book will disturb you. It will haunt you. It will make
you question how such a regime can still exist. But it
is an important book. At the risk of being cliché, it is
a must-read for anyone interested in North or South
Korea, for anyone at all interested in human rights.
Author Barbara Demick had been to North Korea, South Korean), and her secret lover Jun-sang, born
but discovered that North Koreans are masters of to a respectable, politically upper-class family; Dr.
disguise and that a trip to North Korea gets you no Kim, a dedicated medical doctor who is extremely
closer to knowing about the regime than not see- loyal to the Workers’ Party; Hyuck, a cunning orphan
ing it, so she tells the story of North Korea through who from childhood learns how to hustle to survive;
the eyes of six defectors she interviewed in South Mrs. Song, a model communist who whole-heartedly
Korea. The book follows them from a relatively embraces North Korean propaganda in spite of the
healthy North Korea to a famine-ravaged North Ko- increasing deaths around her including the deaths of
rea through their defections and into their lives in family members; and Oak-hee, Mrs. Song’s daugh-
South Korea, skillfully intertwining their stories. We ter who has a streak of utilitarian rebelliousness that
meet Mi-ran, born of tainted blood (her father was ultimately might be what saves her and her mother’s
life.

21
 Fall 2010
We read about how North Koreans eat bark soup,
rotten fruit, and grass to survive; how they have be-
come immune to dead bodies in the streets; how a
man was killed publically by a firing squad because
he had stolen copper wire to buy food; how patients
are required to bring their own beer bottles to hos-
pitals for their IVs; how in less than a year a kinder-
garten class shrinks from fifty to fifteen students.
These are just some of the unfathomable horrors of
North Korea.
Demick’s choice of setting for Nothing to Envy is
important for getting an accurate glimpse of what
life is like for the majority of average North Koreans.
Instead of setting Nothing to Envy in Pyongyang,
the nation’s capital, Demick has chosen Chongjin, a
once-thriving industrial city in the country’s northern
area. While efforts have been made to keep Pyong-
yang presentable to the outside world, Chongjin, like
most of North Korea, has been allowed to fall into a
pitiful state of dilapidation.
Nothing to Envy gives us a good appreciation of
what life is like for a defector living in the South.
While North Korean defectors no longer face the hor-
rors of daily starvation and the fear of imprisonment
for speaking out against the regime, their lives are
certainly not without struggle. North Koreans in the
South find themselves in an alien world of modern
conveniences such as ATMs and broadband Internet.
They don’t really fit in. They don’t dress like South
Koreans; they don’t speak English; and their North
Korean education is of little value in the South. Inevi-
tably defectors also must deal with crushing feelings
of guilt for having left behind relatives very likely A small boy poses in front of “Dear
imprisoned for their crime of defecting. Leader” in Chongjin.

The title of the book comes from a song called

“We have nothing to envy in the world” that children
learn in school. North Koreans are taught that their
country is paradise and that they have nothing to
envy of other nations, and North Koreans sheltered
from the outside world wholeheartedly embrace this
propaganda; those who question the regime must
never speak out.
Nothing to Envy opens with the stark image of a
country that seems not to exist if you see it at night
from a satellite photograph. While surrounding coun-
tries are lit up and bright, North Korea seems to be
an empty abyss. North Korea is a country like no
other, and Nothing to Envy is a book like no other.
When I went to get a second copy of this book at a
popular South Korean bookstore just a few months
after its release, it was already sold out. That says
Chongjin school poster praising more about this book than I ever can. Read it.
North Korean leaders.
Jimalee Sowell has lived in Korea since 1999. She worked
at a language school for a year and a half, at Daelim Col-
lege for eight years, and is now working at Seoul National
University.
22
 Fall 2010

THROUGH THE LENS

Hantaek Botanical Garden
by Sally Bilski

Hantaek Botanical Garden’s development began in

the late 1970s when there were no botanical gardens
in Korea and the country’s wild plants were being
neglected. The motto of the garden founders is “the
garden is not a private property but must be shared
among those who love plants.” Today the garden
boasts over 30 theme gardens and approximately
8,000 plant species. At the plant research center,
which is located on the garden’s property, research-
ers perform many functions such as restoring wild
plant habitats, breeding endangered plants and de-
veloping medicinal herbs.
A meandering pathway leads visitors to the garden
areas. Along this pathway one sees lush trees and
foliage, waterfalls, ponds, and numerous plants and
flowers. Various types of butterflies and insects are
attracted to the garden’s colorful flowers. The garden
is a nature-lover’s paradise and can be enjoyed in
any season.

23
 Fall 2010

Hantaek Botanical Garden is southeast of Osan off highway 17.

Address: San 153-1, Oksan-ri, Baekam-myon, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi do
The following is a link in English to information about the garden, including driving directions and infor-
mation about getting there by public transportation: http://eng.gg.go.kr/entry/Come-and-See-Wild-Flowers-
Hantaek-Botanical-Garden
The garden’s website (in Korean) is: www.hantaek.co.kr

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 Fall 2010

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