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LongiHood sweatshirt

EU sizes 86 – 164 with many variations


US sizes 18M – 14 sewing pattern version 1.5

Material
LongiHood is made of elastic knit fabrics like sweatshirt
fabric, stretch velours, knit fabrics, french terry or even
lighter fleece.
Please don‘t use jersey knits as they are too thin.

material needed :

main fabric (sweat or similiar, fabric width 1,40m):

long version: sz 86 – 92: 60cm • sz 98– 104: 80cm • sz


110 – 116: 90cm • sz 122: 1m • sz 128 – 134: 1,20m •
sz 140 – 152: 1,30m • sz 158 – 164: 1,40m
short version: sz 86 – 92: 60cm • sz 98 – 104: 70cm •
sz 110 – 116: 80cm • 122: 90cm • sz 128: 1m • sz 134
– 140: 1,10m • sz 146 – 152: 1,20m • sz 158 – 164:
1,30m
_____________________________________________________
Cozy sweater or dress with many variations
for the cuffs:
rib knit fabric (minimum width 80cm):
A basic pattern for boys and girls! 30 – 40 cm, depending on chosen size
______________________________________________________
You can sew a lot of different models using this pattern:
only for LongiHood with cozy collar, hood and / or
Plain sweaters with or without cozy collar, hoodies, a
pocket:
sweatshirt dress or a rather classic half-zip sweater.
- jersey knit (as lining) for pocket / hood / collar:
30–40cm, minimum width 90cm
All LongiHoods are a rather loose fit. ______________________________________________________
The shorter version is a straight cut and suits boys and
girls as well. only for LongiHood with color blocking front:
The longer version (sweatshirt dress) is slightly fitted and - matching fabric (sweat, stretch velours, french terry,
will rather fit the girls. fleece,...) in two contrasting colors.
______________________________________________________
All models are made with cuffs at the sleeves and at the only for half-zip sweater:
hem. - rib knit fabric (minimum width 50cm): 45 – 60 cm
- zipper: sz 86 – 98: 20cm • sz 104 – 110: 22cm • sz 116
You can sew the front of the shorter LongiHood in – 128: 24cm • sz 134 – 140: 26cm • sz 146 – 158: 28cm
trendy color blocking style. This also looks good with • sz 164: 30cm
sleeves in different colors. The color blocking version
- soft iron-on interfacing (e.g. Vlieseline H 608)
is also great for using some of the larger scraps in your _____________________________________________________
stash.
sewing machine (plus serger where available)
sticky tape (or glue)
matching thread
pins, chalk or other marking tool, iron, scissors

Have fun sewing!


No matter what machine you use, please always use
jersey ball point needles or stretch needles!

1
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
LongiHood: the pattern

you can sew severeal versions of LongiHood:

LENGTH & CUT: FRONT: NECKLINE:


There is a shorter, straight cut You can attach a pocket to the Which one do you prefer:
version and a longer, slight- front or divide it into three pieces A basic neckline with cuff? A
ly fitted version of LongiHood (color blocking). cool hood? A bigger, cozy collar?
available. Please note: The long front piece Or a half-zip collar for outdoor
(pattern piece 1) contains the pocket or fishermens style?
position and the short one (piece
10) the color blocking partitions.
But feel free to mix them as you
wish!

color blocking & cozy collar long & with pocket

half-zip sweater

HOOD:
You can sew the hood with or without a cuff at the front edge.
There is one hood version which has matching front edges and another version with overlapping edges.

with cuff without cuff overlapping, without cuff

2
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Printing

1) print the pattern


Overview pattern pieces – single pdf files:
The total pattern consists of 30
DIN A4 pages. piece you’ll need this piece for…
You can glue them together to
piece 1: front piece all models except color blocking front
get a big pattern sheet (see next
page) – or: piece 2: back piece all models

piece 3: sleeve all models

!
piece 4: hood LongiHood with hood

piece 5: front collar LongiHood with cozy collar


You don’t have to print all piece 6: back collar LongiHood with cozy collar
pages:
piece 7: pocket LongiHood with pocket
Check the pattern overview and
select which pattern pieces you’ll piece 8: half-zip collar half-zip sweater
need. Then just print the single
pdf files for those pattern pieces piece 9: yoke half-zip sweater
and glue them together to single,
piece 10: Color blocking- short LongiHood with color blocking
small pattern sheets.
front front

• print your LongiHood pattern on DIN A4 paper.


Make sure that the printer settings are set to 100%.

• check the reference box measurements and glue the pages together.

• cut or copy the pattern pieces in your desired size.

Tipps and FAQ: printing


• What do I do, if the control-box does not have the correct measurements?
4 Check the printer settings again, making sure the printer is set to 100%. Also make sure that the paper in set to DIN A4 paper, not to
!
?
US-letter format or similar.
4 Some printers simply do not print 100% even though the setting is correct. This means height and width do not match perfectly. If
this happens to you, try playing around with the printer settings: what if you set the width to 101%, or the height?
• What if the printed pieces do not fit together when gluing?
4 Check the control-box first. Some printers simply do not print 100% even though the setting is correct. This means height and width
do not match perfectly. If this happens to you, try playing around with the printer settings: what if you set the width to 101% or the
height?
• What if only parts of the document get printed?
4 Usually, updating Acrobat Reader helps.
• What if the lines are mixed up or crooked, special characters are everywhere or something else is looking strange or wrong?
4 Please do not print the sewing pattern from your browser window, your email program or mobile device, but save it to your hard disk
first. Then open it at a desktop computer with Acrobat Reader. If you still experience problems, try updating the Acrobat Reader.

3
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Preparation: the pattern
pattern overview and glue chart: big pattern sheet
find the pattern pieces in the
attached pdf files.

piece 1: front piece


piece 2: back piece
piece 3: sleeve
piece 4: hood
piece 5: front collar
piece 6: back collar
piece 7: pocket
piece 8: half-zip collar
piece 9: yoke for half-zip sweater
piece 10: color blocking front

tip:
You might want to get your large
format pattern sheet plotted in a
copy shop or local print shop. For
this just use the attached large
format plotter file!

4
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
garment fit & size chart

size chart
kids’ measurements (NOT garments’ measurements):

size chest waist sleeve length back length


EU* US metrics inches metrics inches metrics inches metrics inches
86 18M 52,5cm 20,5’’ 50,5cm 20’’ 29,5cm 11,5’’ 22cm 8,5’’
92 2T 54cm 21,25’’ 51,5cm 20,25’’ 31,5cm 12,5’’ 23cm 9’’

?
garment fit
98 3T 56cm 22’’ 52,5cm 20,5’’ 34cm 13,5’’ 24cm 9,5’’
104 4 57cm 22,5’’ 53,5cm 21’’ 36cm 14’’ 25cm 10’’
ozy and
s iz e but still c le
110 5 59cm 23,25’’ 54,5cm 21,5’’ 38,5cm 15’’ 26cm 10,5’’
The cut is
fair in g to the ru -
If y o u a re stickin il l b e u su 116 6 61cm 24,25’’ 55,5cm 22’’ 41cm 16’’ 27,5cm 11’’
ble. you w
comforta a ls s iz e ” , il d .
eight equ our ch 122 7 63cm 25’’ 56,5cm 22,25’’ 43cm 17’’ 29cm 11,5’’
“child’s h e ri g h t size for y
sing th 65cm 25,75’’ 58cm 23’’ 45,5cm 18’’ 30cm 12’’
ally choo
128 8
ing
ger for be
n o t s e w a size big 134 9 66,5cm 26,5’’ 59,5cm 23,5’’ 47,5cm 18,5’’ 32cm 12,5’’
ld fe side.
You shou on the sa 140 10 70,5cm 27,5’’ 61cm 24’’ 50cm 19,5’’ 33,5cm 13’’
t want to 146 11 73,5cm 28,5’’ 63cm 24,75’’ 52cm 20,5’’ 35cm 14’’
id s , you migh r
For sli m k es smalle
o s e o n e or two siz ern 152 12 76,5cm 29,25’’ 65cm 25,5’’ 54cm 21,25’’ 36,5cm 14,5’’
cho d the patt
and exten 158 13 79,5cm 31,25’’ 67cm 26,25’’ 56,5cm 22,25’’ 38cm 15’’
.
cordingly
pieces c a 164 14 82,5cm 32,5’’ 69cm 27’’ 58,5cm 23’’ 40cm 15,75’’

*European sizes are based on children’s height. If you know your child’s height, just convert it from
inches to centimeters and select the EU size according to the height. 1cm is about 0,39 inches.

Measurements are given for orientation only, the LongiHood is generally rather loose fitting.

how to measure correctly


CH
childs’ height (CH)
Measure from the base of the feet (without
shoes) to the crown of the head.
Select the EU size according to the height.
Now you’ve got a first reference for choosing
the correct size.
C
If you are unsure you can also measure your
child, for size finetuning: W

chest (C) BL
Measure (with a tape measure) around the
fullest part of the chest/bust. Do not draw the SL
tape too tightly.

waist (W)
Place the tape measure slightly loose around
the child’s waistline.

sleeve length (SL)


Measure from shoulder to just past the wrist
bone.

back length (BL)


Measure from the most prominent bone at
base of neck to the natural waistline.

5
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Upcycling idea
Actually you don´t have to buy new fabrics all the time. UP
Have you ever thought about upcycling?
CYCLIN
G
From old clothes in good condition you can easily make new childrens´ clothing:

ÄRM
EL EL
ÄRM

ÄRM
EL EL
ÄRM

VORDERTEIL RÜCKENTEIL

ÄRM
ÄRM EL EL
EL EL ÄRM
ÄRM

RÜCKENTEIL
VORDERTEIL

FOR EXAMPLE, LONGIHOOD CAN BE MADE


FROM TWO BIGGER SEWATERS AND SOME FABRIC SCRAPS!

What about matching LongiHoods for brothers and sisters?

6
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Cutting & preparation
A for all models

seam allowance:
My patterns do NOT include the seam allowance. This allows you to add as much seam allowance as you prefer, and as
much as your fabric requires. For sweatshirt and jersey fabrics about 0,7cm (0,25’’) are a good reference point.
So, on all seams please add a 0,7cm (0,25’’) wide seam allowance.

Cut the pieces according to the cutting chart. Please pay attention to the grainline and fabrics´ pattern when cutting.

add the
Cutting chart don´t forget to
piece needed for… seam allow
ance! how to cut
piece 1: front piece all models except color blocking front cut 1 on the fold
Please note: for the half zip version, first for the half-zip version cut only the lower part
cut the pattern piece along the accord- of the front piece (on the fold).
ing line.
piece 2: back piece all models cut 1 on the fold

piece 3: sleeve all models cut 2 (mirror imaged)

piece 4: hood LongiHood with hood cut 1 each from main fabric and jersey lining
(mirror imaged)
piece 5: front collar LongiHood with cozy collar cut 1 each from main fabric and jersey lining

piece 6: back collar LongiHood with cozy collar cut 1 each from main fabric and jersey lining

piece 7: pocket LongiHood with pocket cut 1 each from main fabric and jersey lining
piece 8: half-zip collar half-zip sweater for the ha
lf- cut 1 on the fold from rib knit
zip sweate
r also
see cuttin
g
piece 9: yoke half-zip sweater instructio cut 2 (mirror imaged)
ns with
photos on
page 8!
piece 10: short LongiHood with Cut piece 10 along the diagonal lines. Then cut
color blocking front color blocking front the three single parts from different fabrics.

2 draw marks on left fabric side


• sleeves: marks #, Q and «.
At the hems mark the middle of the sleeve (= grainline. This helps when attaching the cuffs).

• front and back piece: marks Q and «.


At the seam and neckline mark front and back middle (helps when attaching the cuffs).
If necessary also mark pocket position.

• hood (if available): mark 0. For overlapping hood also mark front middle.

• collar (if available): mark front and back middle.

7
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Cutting & preparation
A for all models

cut the cuffs:


now cut the cuffs according to the cutting chart.

Cutting chart cuffs


The following measurements are width x height. Please make sure to stick to grain line when cutting.
The ideal measurements may vary depending the elasticity of your fabric.
0,75cm seam allowance is included at all edges.

sleeve cuffs lower cuff lower cuff hood


for all models short models long models only for hood with cuff
cut 2 cut 1 cut 1 cut 1
size size metrics inches metrics inches metrics inches metrics inches
EU US (cm) (cm) (cm) (cm)

86 18M 14 x 10 5½x4 59 x 10 23 x 4 64 x 10 25 x 4 47 x 6,5 18½ x 2½

92 2T 14,5 x 10,5 5¾ x 4 61 x 10,5 24 x 4 66 x 10,5 26 x 4 49,5 x 6,5 19½ x 2½

98 3T 15 x 10,5 6x4 62 x 10,5 24½ x 4 68 x 10,5 27 x 4 52 x 6,5 20½ x 2½

104 4 15 x 11 6 x 4¼ 64 x 11 25 x 4¼ 70 x 11 27½ x 4¼ 53,5 x 6,5 21 x 2½

110 5 15,5 x 11,5 6 x 4½ 66 x 11,5 26 x 4½ 72 x 11,5 28 x 4½ 55 x 6,5 21½ x 2½

116 6 16 x 11,5 6¼ x 4½ 68 x 11,5 27 x 4½ 74 x 11,5 29 x 4½ 57 x 6,5 22½ x 2½

122 7 16 x 12 6¼ x 4¾ 70 x 12 27½ x 4¾ 76 x 12 30 x 4¾ 59 x 6,5 23 x 2½

128 8 16,5 x 12 6½ x 4¾ 72 x 12 28 x 4¾ 79 x 12 31 x 4¾ 60 x 6,5 23½ x 2½

134 9 17 x 12,5 6¾x 5 74 x 12,5 29 x 5 81 x 12,5 32 x 5 61 x 6,5 24 x 2½

140 10 17 x 12,5 6¾ x 5 76 x 12,5 30 x 5 83 x 12,5 32½ x 5 62 x 6,5 24½ x 2½

146 11 17,5 x 13 7x5 78 x 13 30¾ x 5 85 x 13 33½ x 5 63 x 6,5 25 x 2½

152 12 17,5 x 13 7x5 80 x 13 31½ x 5 87 x 13 34½ x 5 64 x 6,5 25 x 2½

158 13 18 x 13,5 7 x 5½ 82 x 13,5 32 x 5½ 89 x 13,5 35 x 5½ 65 x 6,5 25½ x 2½

164 14 18 x 13,5 7 x 5½ 84 x 13,5 33½ x 5½ 91 x 13,5 36 x 5½ 66 x 6,5 26 x 2½

8
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Cutting & preparation: half-zip sweater (fishermen‘s style)
A only for LongiHood with half-zip collar

1 2

Back piece: For the half zip collar you‘ll need the You‘ll only need the lower part of the front piece
deeper neckline. Cut piece 2 along the correspon- (piece 1): First cut the pattern piece along the corre-
ding line. sponding line.

GRAINLINE

FOLD
3 4

Cut the collar (piece 8) from rib knit fabric: Please Now apply some iron-on interfacing to the long
keep in mind that the fold is at the short edge of the front edges: Iron a strip of fine, slighty stretchy
pattern piece! Also take note of the grainline. interfacing onto the left side of the fabric.
seam allowance: for the zipper you have to add
1,5cm seam allowance at the long front edge. Add
the usual 0,7cm at all other edges.

5 Fold the collar along its upper edge, left fabric sides inside.
Iron the upper edge.
9
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Sewing
Jersey, sweat & co: how to sew
Please always use ballpoint needles when sewing jersey knit fabrics, sweatshirt fabric, french terry and similar.

STRETCHY STITCHES
Using your sewing machine, choose a stretch stitch / stretchy utility stitch.
If none of these is are available, use the three-step straight stitch or a
zigzag-stitch.

Sewing is much faster and more professional when using a serger.

A only for LongiHood with pocket

1) PREPARE FRONT PIECE


For a LongiHood with pocket or color blocking front you prepare the front piece before assembling the sweater:

1a: SEW POCKET (optional)


Pin both pockets (piece 7) of outer fabric and jersey (=lining)
congruent right sides facing on top of each other. Important:

On the straight edge, leave approx. 4–5cm (1,5–2’’) open as


an opening in stitching to turn the pocket later.
Sew the pocket all around but leave out the opening.

Turn the pocket, iron it and maybe topstitch the diagonal


pocket openings.

Place the pocket on the front piece (piece 1) as marked on


the pattern left side on the right side.
Pin the pocket on the straight edges, pinning the opening in
the process.

Stitch down the pocket on the front piece (e.g. with twin
needle, zigzag stitch or any other nice and stretchy stitch).
Don’t sew too far away from the edge of the pocket, so you
are sure to close the opening.

10
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
A only for LongiHood with color blocking front

1b: SEW COLOR BLOCKING FRONT (optional):

Put upper and middle front piece at the


diagonal divisional seam right sides facing
on top of each other.
Pin and sew the divisional seam (use your
serger or stretch stitch).

Sew the lower front piece to the middle


Tip! You can also co
mbine jersey kn
sweatshirt fabric.
with sweat, I us
When combining
its and
it
ually use two la
piece as well. jersey to align th yers of
e fabrics‘ thickne
and elasticity. Pl ss
us: you can just
use up your brig
ht fabric scraps
as lining!

Iron the seams and maybe topstitch


from the right.

topstitching: how to

For topstitching elastic fabrics of course you should also use an elastic stitch.

I prefer using a very little wide (= slightly elastic) zig zag stitch.
Also possible: The stretchy triple straight stitch oder any other decorative
and elastic stitch.

Or: use your cover machine for topstitching.

11
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
A only for LongiHood with half-zip collar
FOR THE HALF-ZIP SWEATER YOU SEW THE COLLAR FIRST!

6 7

First, attach the zipper in 4 steps: Fold the collar along its upper edge right sides insi-
Pin one edge of the zipper (right sides inside) to one de.
front edge of the collar. The upper end of the zipper Then pin the zipper to the upper layer of fabric (just
matches the collars‘ upper edge. pin along the seam you‘ve just sewn).
Attach the zipper, using straight stitch and a zipper Sew again along this seam.
foot.

9
8

For the second half of the zipper, fold the other


This is how it looks after turning: Half of the zipper edge open again. Pin and sew the second half of the
is ready :) zipper – right sides inside – to the second edge of
the collar.

10 11

Then again fold the last remaining fabric edge over Turn the collar. Now it should look like this.
the zipper, pin and sew (according to step 7). Topstitch the front edges.
12
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
12 13

Now you can pin the shoulder seams of the back Pin the collar right sides inside to the yokes‘ edges.
piece (piece 2) and the yoke (piece 9), right sides The „inner corners“ of the collar match the shoulder
inside. Sew, using a stretchy stitch or your serger. seams.

14 15

Along the back piece neckline I don´t pin, because Now sew the whole collar, using a stretch stitch
you´ll have to stretch the collar a little while sewing. or serger. Stretch the collar slightly along the back
If you prefer of course feel free to pin to collar neckline to make it match the neckline.
(slightly stretched) to the neckline.

16
17

After this you can assemble the front piece: Now your front piece looks like this.
Pin the lower part of the front piece (piece 1) right If you want to topstitch the divding seam or decora-
sides inside to the lower edge of the collar and te with a ribbon or decorative stitch.
yoke. CONTINUE WITH STEP 3) ATTACHING SLEEVES
Sew the seam (pay attention at the lower edge of
the zipper).

13
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
A for LongiHood with hood or cozy collar

2) SEW SHOULDER SEAMS

Put the front (piece 1 or piece 8 ) and back (piece 2) congru-


ent on top of each other now. The nice fabric sides are on
the inside (=”right sides facing each other”) and the mark-
ings # and 0 each meet.

Pin both shoulder seams. Sew as usual with the serger or a


stretch stitch.

A for all versions

3) ATTACH SLEEVES

Pin the sleeves (pieces 3) in the armholes, right sides facing


each other: the marking “shoulder” and the shoulder seam
meet. Also make sure to match the markings (Q).

Then again, sew both sleeves with the stretch stitch or the
serger.

14
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
4) CLOSE SLEEVE AND SIDE SEAMS

Fold up the sweater now, right sides facing: Front and back
part lie on top of each other, the sleeves are folded in half.

Now pin the sleeve and shoulder seams. Take care that the
already sewn seams meet below the sleeve.

Sew the sleeve and side seams in one continuous seam with
the stretch stitch or the serger.

Turn the sweater.

A for LongiHood with cozy collar

5a) SEW AND ATTACH THE COLLAR

Put both collar pieces (piece 5 and piece 6) right sides facing
on top of each other, so that both side seams are on top of
each other on one side (markings 0 meet).
Pin this side seam and sew as usual.

Then, put the opposing side edges on top of each other, pin
and sew.

Sew the collar pieces cut from jersey lining in the same way.

Turn one half of the collar, left fabric sides outside. Put it over
the other half. Pin and sew the upper edge of the collar.

Turn the collar right side out. Now you might want to iron
and / or topstitch the top edge.
Don’t be surprised that the collar is wider on top than on the
neckline. That way it is nice and comfortable.

15
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
A for LongiHood with cozy collar

Now attach the folded collar to the neckline, right sides fac-
ing each other. Make sure that the respective seams and the
front and back middle meet.

Sew all around the neckline (stretch stitch or serger).

THEN, CONTINUE WITH STEP 6) OR 7)

Tip!
Of course, a ribbon always looks cool
at the collars‘ edge. But keep in mind
that for safety reasons children‘s clo-
thing should have no long ribbons
near the neck. So better only
attach short pieces of ribbon as
decorative elements.

16
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
5b) NUR FÜR LONGIHOOD MIT KAPUZE
A for LongiHood with hood

5b) SEW THE HOOD

Put the hood pieces (piece 4) congruent, right sides facing


on top of each other. Pin the curved edges.

Sew the curved seam with the serger or your stretch stitch.

Proceed with the hood lining pieces from jersey just the
same.

Maybe iron the seam on both hoods and – if you like – top-
stitch them.

topstitching: how to

For topstitching elastic fabrics of course you should also use an elastic stitch.

I prefer using a very little wide (= slightly elastic) zig zag stitch.
Also possible: The stretchy triple straight stitch oder any other decorative
and elastic stitch.

Or: use your cover machine for topstitching.

hood with cuff:

Fold cuff strip lengthwise, left sides together.


Pin the slightly stretched strip to the front edge of the hood
(outer fabric).

Sew with a temporary basting seam (means, a long straight


stitch will do it for now).
If the cuff strip is too long just shorten it afterwards.

17
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
… hood with cuff:

Put both hood pieces from outer fabric and lining right sides
facing into each other.

Now pin the front edge of the hood lining, right sides facing
each other, to the raw edge of the cuff.
Sew along the just sewn seam with serger or stretch stitch.

Turn the hood, iron.

Maybe topstitch on the outer fabric next to the seam.

hood without cuff:

Put both hood pieces from outer fabric and lining right sides
facing into each other.
Pin the front edge of the hood.

Now sew the front edge with your stretch stitch or serger.

Turn the hood and iron the front edge.

If you like, you can topstitch the front edge using a twin
needle, zigzag stitch, flatlock stitch or cover machine.

18
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
5b) ATTACH HOOD

Attach the completed hood to the neckline, right sides facing


each other. Each shoulder seam meets the marking 0 and
the hood seam meets the back middle.
The hood edges can match each other in the front middle –
or overlap, whichever way it fits better.

If you sew the overlapping hood, of course both edges


will overlap for several centimeters in the front middle.
So the marks match the front middle when pinning.

Sew around the pinned hood (with serger or stretch stitch).

THEN, CONTINUE WITH STEP 6) OR 7)

A for all versions

5c) ALTERNATIVE IDEA: NORMAL CUFF

Instead the collar or hood of course you also could attach a


normal cuff.
It´s a good idea to try on the sweater first, though. Depen-
ding on the cuffs‘ height, you might want to cut the neckline
a little deeper before sewing the cuff.
Then sew the cuff as usual.

6) CONCEAL NECK SEAM (optional)

You might want to conceal the neck seam with a jersey strip
now. But please keep in mind that the neckline might be less
elastic after that.

Anyway, this is how: cut an approx. 4cm (1,5‘‘) wide (=


high), very stretchy jersey strip which is a bit longer than the
total neckline.
Pin the strip from the inside to the neck seam, right side onto
the left side. Sew using a stretchy stitch.
Then, fold under the raw edge of the strip. Iron, pin and sew
the edge of the strip, again using a stretchy stitch.

19
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
7) PREPARE THE CUFFS

Fold the lower cuff along the grainline (= rips) in the middle
right sides facing each other. Pin the short edge.

2x
Fold and pin both sleeve cuffs in the middle as well.
Sew the three vertical cuff seams with a straight stitch (nor-
mal sewing machine, ballpoint needle). Secure seam ends.
Iron the seam allowances apart.

Fold all three cuff rings with wrong sides together so that
they are only half as high as before.

Divide the lower cuff in four equal sections with pins or


marking tool (mark opposite of the seam and exactly in
between).
Also divide the sleeve cuffs in 2 halves: the marking goes op-
posite of the already sewn seam.

8) ATTACH LOWER CUFF


Put the lower cuff (folded to half its height) over the hem
edge of the sweater, right sides facing each other: the raw
edges of sweater and cuff are on top of each other (3 layers
of fabric).
The cuff seam meets one of the side seams. Pin here.
On the opposite side, the middle marking meets the other
side seam. So pin the next pin here. The remaining two
markings go to the front and back middle.

You don’t have to pin he rest of the cuff. It can be stretched


evenly to the width of the sweater during sewing – or you
pin it, whichever you prefer.

Sew the cuff, slightly stretched, all around, using a stretch


stitch or serger.

8) ATTACH SLEEVE CUFFS

The sleeve cuffs are also put over the sleeves so that the raw
edges are on top of each other. 2x
The cuff seam meets the sleeve seam. Pin the first needle
there.
The second marking (needle) meets the middle of the sleeve.
Pin there as well.

Sew the sleeve cuffs just like the lower cuff: start just before
or after one of the needles, sew a little bit and then stretch
the cuff to the next needle.
Sew all around once each.

Done! 20
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
THANK YOU! the
pattern
testing
team!
A fat thank you goes to
my pattern testing team:

Version 1: Version 1.5:


Anisa Christiane • facebook.com/BrummelHummel2016
Barbara Christiane • facebook.com/imschatten.dernaht
Carina Daniela • facebook.com/Finella2013
Daniela Eli • facebook.com/NenisEli-613886418994018
Denise Heike • facebook.com/ELPiBaRiSuHe
Dodo Martina •
Jasmin Martina • instagram.com/familieminchen/
Lil Michaela • facebook.com/naehdochmal
Mirjam Nicole • facebook.com/nimabeth/
Nicole Nicole • instagram.com/fraulenzi/
Karin Nicole • facebook.com/LovelyPauNi
Pauline Jess • instagram.com/birdsew/
Sandra Jessica • instagram.com/blinkstorch
Simone Petra •
Sonja Romy • facebook.com/Erbseneule/
Theresia Lotta • instagram.com/lotta_meer/
Ute Katharina • facebook.com/hummelswerk.mit.liebe.zur.kreativitaet/
Xenia Katrin • facebook.com/Made-By-Trine-514262205612017
Kerstin • facebook.com/kenihaluma
Version 1.5: Sabrina • instagram.com/sabonearth/
Alex • schnuspel6. blogspot.de Sandi • unsere-mini-welt.blogspot.com/
Alexandra • facebook.com/FabinosWeltByZimmermannla/ Sabine • facebook.com/feliphidibus
Andrea • facebook.com/geknoepft Sabine •
Anke • facebook.com/rheinnaht Sonja • crafting-cafe.de
Britta • facebook.com/MamiWerk-280431739398398 Susanne • instagram.com/su.se_c/
Carolin • facebook.com/lil.luci.blog Tina • facebook.com/DuRuebe
Ulrike • facebook.com/sternrike
Veronique • facebook.com/Hummelherz-1638315476398058
… and, of course, your children! Vera • facebook.com/lapueppita
Thank you so much for modeling and trying! Ute •

Legal Notes / Imprint


pattern and sewing instructions e-book “LongiHood”, Version 1.5, © 2013–2019 by Britta Hackenberger, Hamburg, Germany
erbsenprinzessin.com • contact: britta@erbsenprinzessin.com

This pattern is intended for private use and to produce one-of-a-kind pieces or small series for a small business. If you use the pattern
for your business, please don’t forget to add the source “pattern by erbsenprinzessin.com“ to your promotional text. Thank you.

Mass production or industrial use of the sweater is not allowed under any circumstances. It is not allowed to sell ready to sew pieces of
the sweater (for example as a part of sewing kits). You are not allowed to share, print or publish this PDF or any parts of it.

I can not be held responsible for any errors that patterns might contain, nor can I be held responsible for any injuries, losses, and other
damages that may result from the use of the information in this pattern.
Please ensure yourself that products made with this pattern follow your country’s children’s clothes safety regulations, as these vary
widely from country to country.
Feel free to contact me at britta@erbsenprinzessin.com for any questions or feedback that may arise.

21
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

22
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

23
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

24
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

25
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

26
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

27
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

28
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

29
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

30
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

31
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

32
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

33
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

34
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

35
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

36
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

37
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

38
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

39
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

40
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples Version 1.5

41
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples version 1.0
NEW IN V
. 1.5:
• shorter
sleeves
• improv
ed fitting
• overlap
ping hoo
• half-zip d
collar

42
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.
Design examples version 1.0
NEW IN V
. 1.5:
• shorter
sleeves
• improv
ed fitting
• overlap
ping hoo
• half-zip d
collar

43
© 2013 – 2019 by Britta Hackenberger • erbsenprinzessin.com
This sewing pattern may be used for personal use and for the production of unique pieces / small batches as well as for resale. Mass production,
distribution, printing and publication of this e-book or parts thereof are expressly prohibited.

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