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A constructive approach toward a parametric pattern-making model

Yi Xiu, Zhen-Kai Wan and Wen Cao
Textile Research Journal 2011 81: 979 originally published online 28 April 2011
DOI: 10.1177/0040517510388552

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Original article
Textile Research Journal
81(10) 979–991

A constructive approach toward a ! The Author(s) 2010

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parametric pattern-making model DOI: 10.1177/0040517510388552
trj.sagepub.com

Yi Xiu1,2, Zhen-Kai Wan1 and Wen Cao2

Abstract
The made-to-measure technique is created to accommodate the requirement of mass customization. A parametric
design in various made-to-measure techniques is considered as a significant solution, however, variant programming as a
parametric design has its limitation in principle, scope and operation. This paper proposes a novel approach based on
variable and geometric constraint to generate a parametric pattern-making model. In an interactive and graphical envi-
ronment, at the same time that geometric entities are created, geometric constraints between entities are identified,
constructed and added into a constraint graph which represents the sequence of construction and constraints, thus it
also holds a set of rules and knowledge in pattern-making. To reduce the cost of time and space, the reversible graph of a
constraint graph is introduced to represent a dimension-driven process. Parametric modeling of a pattern is illustrated
with the rear panel of a women’s jacket in this paper. First of all, a constraint graph and reversible graph are expressed
using an adjacent constraint list and an adjacent dimension-driven list respectively, then pattern-making process is stored
in an adjacent constraint list, when a set of specific values of variables or the properties of an entity is altered, the
properties of the relatively constrained entities are recalculated and updated by using an adjacent dimension-driven list
and constraint solving algorithm. The experiments show that the approach has the advantage of the interactive con-
struction of a pattern and convenient operation similar to conventional garment CAD, and the implementation of the
dimension-driven process and entity-edited function of parametric pattern model.

Keywords
Parametric pattern-making, a constructive approach, geometric constraints, constraint graph, dimension-driven,
garment CAD

Introduction
production, however, it can’t produce accurately fitting
Most of today’s customers have a strong desire to person- clothes for individual customers. Made-to-measure
alize the style, fit and color of the clothes so that mass (MTM) technology is created as a part of mass custom-
customization has become a new design and manufacture ization because it allows styles to be customed repeat-
trend. Mass customization is a hybrid of mass production edly and inserted into the mass production line.
and customization. On one hand it satisfies the individual MTM technology includes the following
measurements and styles of customers, on the other hand approaches: conventional grading technique, pattern
it accommodates the industrial production and competi- generating based on artificial intelligence, pattern fat-
tion in apparel industry.1 That is to say, mass customiza- tening technique directly from individual 3D apparel
tion provides customers with personalized clothes at model and parametric design.3
lower price, higher quality and faster delivery.
The practice of mass customization is achieved by
the combination of the advanced automatic and com-
1
puterized technology with the experience and manage- Tianjin Polytechnic University, China.
2
ment of industrial apparel production.2 Conventional Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, China.
CAD technology, which is based on the size table of
Corresponding author:
standard body measurements, can shorten the product Yi Xiu, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, North End of Heping
development cycle, improve product quality and Street, Chaoyang District, Beijing, China
respond more quickly to the customer market in mass Email: xiuyiks@126.com

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980
The conventional grading technique is relatively
simple in theory and implemented by extending the
grading function, so it is applied in some commercial
CAD systems. This approach utilizes standard patterns,
either basic patterns or graded patterns from a large-
scale grading database, applies a mathematical formula
or alteration list to change them to fit individual body
measurements. This approach requires a high experi-
ence of pattern-making, grading and apparel construc-
tion, as well as a good working knowledge of computer
hardware and networks.4
Pattern generating based on artificial intelligence
adopts an artificial neural network (ANN) to create
an expert pattern system. From the maths perspective,
an apparel pattern consists of point, line, curve and
sizing. Although pattern-making is an extremely com-
plex process, it may be implemented through the con-
struction of an ANN model. When body measurements
and fabric properties are inputted, the coordinates of
points of pattern are output. This approach does not
require a significant knowledge and practical experience
of pattern-making, but a great deal of experiments have
to be conducted for each pattern, it is confined to some
styles, such as trousers and shirts.5,6
The pattern flattening technique from individual 3D
models is considered as a part of 3D apparel CAD system
which is widely focused and studied.7–9 The 3D apparel
CAD system is based on the three essential technologies,
including the physically-based cloth model,10–12 the
transformation from 2D to 3D, or from 3D to 2D, and
3D visualization. Pattern flattening technique from the
3D apparel model is to flatten the designated 3D surface
to a 2D plane through 3D-2D transformation. This
technique is described as follows: it gives a 3D body
surface and material properties, constructs cloth models
as triangular or rectangular grids with mass points at the
intersection, formulates the various forces and energies
and finds a mapping between 3D surface and counterpart
pattern based on the energy-minimization in order to get
an optimal 2D pattern that folds to the 3D surface with
minimum deformation.13,14
Although several commercial 3D apparel systems
have utilized the flattening technique, they are not prac-
tical in mass customization. There are still some prob-
lems, one of them is how to determine the ease value on
a 3D surface, another one is the distortion in the 2D
pattern flattened from the 3D model.
Two approaches for parametric design are described,
namely variant programming and geometric constraint
solving.15 There are two cases in variant programming.
In one case this approach requires a procedure to be writ-
ten in a certain programming language when defining a
parametric design model. For example, a set of variables
including measurement parameters and construction
parameters, pattern-making formula and knowledge are
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Textile Research Journal 81(10)
written into a computer program which is performed to
define a parametric model. When a program has obtained
a set of specific values, it is executed to generate a pattern.
This approach is usually used for definition of parts librar-
ies in a commercial apparel CAD system, such as collars
of western-style suits, Japanese cultural prototypes.
In another case, this approach records a sequence of
the construction steps where measurement values may be
parameterized in pattern-making, just as macros in com-
puter technique does, so it is called macros definition.16
Every step creates an entity, a group of construction steps
define the description of a pattern, and thus each time the
execution of the construction process with a different user-
specific measurement value can produce the various var-
iations of a pattern. In this approach, any measurement
values have to be in a predefined range to prevent possible
error and an invalid result, meanwhile, editing and alter-
ation to some entities increase greatly the number of the
construction steps. The fine adjustment of seam lengths
and shaping curvatures, especially, is not feasible.
Variant programming is regarded as a parametric
design in the literal and fundamental sense, Although
variant programming is a relatively outdated technique,
it has been dominant in parametric pattern-making for
decades.
The geometric constraint solving approach has been
noticed in parametric pattern-making recently.17 From
the perspective of parametric technology, constraint
relationships between geometric entities are considered,
constraints are classified into two categories: geometric
and dimensional constraints, but the description of the
topological structure of a pattern, which holds a set of
rules or knowledge of pattern-making, is still an
unknown issue.
During the same period, the thought of conceptual
design or drafting is established gradually. Accordingly
parametric design based on variables and constraints
has become a vital methodology of parametric model-
ing and design.
In the conceptual design, designers do not satisfy the
design and representation of specific products, but
require a prototype model from a number of general
specifications of products, and then alter it to optimize
final products. In practical application, designers usu-
ally need to know the draft sizes of geometric entities
beforehand, draw the sketch and frequently modify it
to get the final satisfactory graphics.18
Parametric design based on variables and constraints
is defined as the general design model that represents a
family of different graphics and shares the same con-
straints such as geometric constraints, mathematical
equations and relationship formulas.19 In the design
process, entities and the constraints between them can
be represented simultaneously. Given a set of specific
values, particular graphics are generated.
Xiu
Table 1. Commercial parametric design software products
Corporation name Parametric products
Dassault system CATIA, SolidWorks
EDS UG/IDEAS, SolidEdge
PTC Pro/Engineer, Pro/Desktop
Autodesk Inventor, MDT, AutoCAD
The methodology is utilized in the development of a
parametric CAD system. Some well-known corpora-
tions have released a number of commercial software
products, shown in Table 1.20 They are widely applied
in the field of aviation, shipping, automobile and archi-
tecture production.
This paper introduces the above methodology into
the development of parametric pattern-making and
proposes a novel approach to construct a parametric
pattern-making model. In this approach, body mea-
surements are defined as variables, at the same time
geometric entities are created, geometric constraints
can be captured, then topological structure of apparel
patterns are represented by a constraint graph and
mathematical formula, thus a family of pattern-
making models with same topological feature is
generated.
The next section describes the principle of para-
metric design and some of the well-known geometric
constraint solving approaches. The parametric pattern-
making model is then illustrated, with an example of
pattern-making, focusing on the construction of the
constraint graph and the expression of data structure.
The next section is the experimental results, followed by
the conclusions that can be drawn.
Principle of parametric design
Geometric constraint issues
A geometric constraint issue consists of geometric enti-
ties and relations between them, called constraints.
In the constructive approach, this issue can be repre-
sented by a constraint graph. G ¼ (V, E) is defined as a
constraint graph, where V is a set of vertices denoted by
geometric entities, such as points, lines, rectangles,
arcs and curves, E is a set of edges denoted by con-
straints, such as the distance between two lines or a
point and a line, angle between two lines, parallelism
and perpendicularity.21,22
In a plane, the geometric entities have a different
degree of freedom (DOF), a geometric constraint
reduces the DOF of the geometric entities. Assume n is
the number of geometric entities, m is the number of
constraints in a constraint graph, then the geometric
constraint issue can be divided into three classes:
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981
If m ¼ 2  n  3, a constraint graph is structurally well-
constrained.
If m > 2  n  3, a constraint graph is structurally over-
constrained.
If m < 2  n  3, a constraint graph is structurally
under-constrained.
Constraint category
From the perspective of parametric design, constraints
in the pattern-making model can be divided into two
categories: dimensional constraint and geometric
constraint.23
Dimensional constraints comprise the shape
attribute of entities and the relationship between two
variables, the former is used to express the size of
entities, for example, radius of a circle, length of a
line, the latter is used to express the relations between
variables, for example, back shoulder line ¼ front
shoulder line + 0.5 cm, armhole depth ¼ bust/8 + 10.5.
Furthermore, dimensional constraints may have the
positive or minus sign to express the direction of con-
straint. For example, if a value of the length of a line is
positive, the line extends in one direction, if minus, the
line extends in the opposite direction.
A geometric constraint is also called a topological
constraint, it describes the constraint relations between
entities in graphics. A set of geometric constraints is
used to represent the topological structure of a pattern.
Geometric constraints include distance, angle, parallel-
ism, perpendicularity and so on. For instance, waist line
and front width line are perpendicular, waist line and
coat length line are parallel. The entities in patterns can
be incorporated together by geometric constraints.
Geometric constraint solving
The geometric constraint solving approach is classified
into a numerical constraint solving, a symbolic con-
straint solving, a rule-based constraint solving and a
graph-based constraint solving.24–29
In the numerical constraint solving approach,
constraint model is represented by a group of equa-
tions, a specific graphics is generated by computing
and solving a set of numerical constraint equations.
In this approach, the number of equations and vari-
ables grows quickly with the number of geometric enti-
ties, good initial values are required in order to
converge and gain unique solution. In general the
type of constraints can not be determined correctly.
Another approach is symbolic constraint solving.
A constraint set is denoted by a group of algebra equa-
tions. This approach improves the efficiency of geomet-
ric constraint solving greatly and still estimates which
982 Textile Research Journal 81(10)

geometric constraint is well-constrained or under- A sequence of construction and constraints will be

constrained, or over-constrained. Its drawback is that carried out to determine the particular pattern. When
solving speed is too slow, both computational time and the property or position of a given entity is altered
space are quite expensive. through an operation, the related entities, which are
Rule-based constraint solving is also called knowledge- influenced directly or indirectly by this entity, are
based constraint solving which uses an expert system to updated by a constraint graph and variables.
create a geometric model based on a set of constraints. In A parametric graph-based model has the advantage
this approach, a model is described by a series of facts of being edited in an interactive and graphical way,
relating to geometric entities and constraints. Geometric recording the conceptual construction steps and sup-
constraints are represented by predicates or rules. Given porting both generic and specific design.
the constraints, an inference engine is used to determine
sequentially the unknown position of geometric entities.
The rules can make the network of constraints consistent Construction of parametric
and compatible, update the geometric property.
Along with the complex of a graphics, a large
pattern-making model
number of predicates or rules are required. The The constraint graph of a pattern is constructed and the
system is so intricate that the speed of inference is data structure of a constraint graph is expressed in
slow in terms of computation. parametric modeling of a pattern.
A promising approach is graph-based constraint solv-
ing. A constraint model is represented by a graph or a
Pattern-making process
directed graph and solved by the algorithms in graph
theory, most of which have a lower complexity and a The process of pattern-making is illustrated with the
higher speed. This approach is the most efficient, therefore rear panel of a women’s jacket30 in Figure 2, which
it is widely applied. In this approach, a family of paramet- shows how to generate the parametric model of pat-
ric models that shares the same topological constraints can terns and to implement the dimension-driven process.
be created by using available operations and constraints.
In the interactively working environment, the avail-
able operations are chosen, geometric entities are pro-
J
duced through an interactive and graphical tool, and
constraints among entities are simultaneously identified A H B
and added into a constraint graph. Every time a con- K L I
M N
straint is captured, the constraint edge from one vertex
to another one is appended to a constraint graph until
the constraint graph is completely constructed, so a
constraint graph represents a sequence of construction
and constraints. Since one entity restricts another one
O
in operation, the constraint edge is directional, con-
straint graph is a directed graph, shown in Figure 1.

P
0
F
E
G
6 7 8

1 2

9 10
3

4
5 11 12
D C
Q

Figure 1. Notation of a constraint graph. Figure 2. Rear panel of a women’s jacket.

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Xiu 983

Table 2. Design process of rear panel of women’s jacket

Code Name Specifications

B Bust Variable
BL Back length Variable

1 Subsidiary rectangle ABCD
2 Line of armhole depth EF
3 Line of back width GH
4 Back neck depth IJ
5 Subsidiary point K
6 Subsidiary point L
7 Subsidiary line JL
8 Back neck curve JKA
9 JM: one segment of back
shoulder line
10 MN: the other segment of
back shoulder line
11 Subsidiary point O
12 Subsidiary line GP
13 Back armhole curve NOPF
14 Side seam line FQ
Length (B + 10)/4 cm in x direction and height BL cm in y direction are given, left-top point is
set as a known one.
Start point E is obtained by moving downward from the left-top point of rectangle with the
length of (B/8 + 10.5) cm, end point F is gained by going rightward and intersecting with the
right line of code 1.
Start point G is obtained when the start point of code 2 moves rightward with the length of
(B/8 + 7.8) cm, end point H is achieved by going upward and intersecting with the top line of
code 1.
Start point I is located when the left-top point of code 1 moves rightward with the length of
(B/24 + 3.6) cm, end point J is located by going upward from point I with the length of (B/
24 + 3.6)/3 cm.
Point K is set at one-third of distance between the left-top point of code 1 and the start one
of code 4.
Point L is set at two-third of distance between the left-top point of code 1 and the start one
of code 4.
Start point J is the end one of code 4, end point L is code 6.
Go through the end point of code 4, code 5 and the left-top point of code 1.
Start point is the end one of code 4, end point M is obtained by going along back shoulder
line, deflecting downward 19 and intersecting with code 3.
Start point is the end one of code 9; end point N is gained when point M is extended the
length of 2.2 cm along the direction of code 9.
It is the mid-point between the end one of code 9 and the start one of code 3.
Start point is the start one of code 3, end point P is located at the sum of 1 cm and one-third
of the distance between the start point of code 3 and the right line of code 1 along the
direction of 45 line.
Go through the end point of code 10, code 11, the end one of code 12, the end one of code 2.
Start point is the end one of code 2, end point Q is obtained when the right-bottom point of
code 1 goes leftward by 2 cm.

Table 2 specifies every step of the pattern-making
process and the relationships between geometric entities
in a pattern. In this paper, body measurements:
B (Bust), BL (Back Length) are defined as variables,
the code represents either a sequence of construction
or a geometric entity in a pattern, the specification
describes how every entity is created and geometric con-
straints among entities or variables are identified.
Construction of a constraint graph
According to the pattern-making process above, the
geometric constraint graph will be generated.
In step 1, the left-top point of code 1 is set as a
known point, the width and length of code 1 is calcu-
lated using two variables: B, BL, and then code 1 are
created. The constraints B!1 and BL!1 are identified
and added to a constraint graph simultaneously. Since
code 1 is not constrained by other geometric entities, no
other geometric entity is pointed at code 1.
In step 2, start point of code 2 is obtained by moving
downward with the length of (B/8 + 10.5) cm from the
left-top point of code 1, the constraint B!2 is produced
and added to the constraint graph. In the x-direction,
code 2 goes rightward and intersects with the right of
code 1, and then the end point of code 2 is located. The
constraint 1!2 is appended to the constraint graph.
In step 3, the start point of code 2 is fixed first, then
the start point of code 3 is located by moving rightward
with the length of (B/8 + 7.8) cm, the constraint 2!3
is captured and added to the constraint graph. The end
point of code 3 is set by moving upward and intersect-
ing with the top line of code 1 from the start point of
code 3, the constraint 1!3 is identified and appended
to the constraint graph. This process is continued step
by step as far as last code and the geometric graph of a
pattern is constructed. In pattern construction, the cre-
ation of each entity is dependent on the other existing
entities, one entity may be constrained by one or more
entities. In a way the parametric pattern-making in

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984
14 2 13
10
9 BL
B 1
3 11
12
LB 1 ment constraints.
4
5 8
6 7
Figure 3. Constraint graph of pattern.
apparel design is the process where a variety of con-
straints is set and satisfied continually until all design
requirements are met.
If a vertex represents the geometric entity and a
directional line represents the constraints between enti-
ties, a constraint graph is a set of vertices and direc-
tional lines, shown in Figure 3. The graph is a
constraint network that indicates the constraint rela-
tionship between entities and the sequence of a con-
struction, it does not relate to the shape and
complexity of a pattern.
Data structure of constraint graph
This paper adopts the adjacent list of a graph to indi-
cate the constraint graph of patterns.31 Two types of
adjacent list exist. One type is an adjacent constraint list
for the representation of constructive sequences and
geometric constraints; the other is an adjacent dimen-
sion-driven list for the storage of constraint contents
and the representation of dimension-driven sequence.
Both lists ensure that a constrained entity can be
located, recalculated and driven accurately when the
property of a certain entity is altered.
In a practical application, pattern-making usually
starts with body measurements which are defined as var-
iables and initialized to a group of specific values.
Considering the data structure of the constraints is
more universal and extensible, an adjacent constraints
list is classified into two categories: the adjacent list of
body measurement constraints is shown in Figure 4, the
adjacent list of geometric constraints is shown in Figure 5.
The adjacent list of geometric constraints has the
following features: when one entity is constrained by
its preceding entity, the address of this entity is greater
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Textile Research Journal 81(10)
B
1 2 3 4
Figure 4. Dada structure of adjacency list of body measure-
than that of the preceding entity in a vertical chain list
and the addresses of these entities are ranged according
to the sequence from small to large. The address of
entities in the horizontal chain list is the same as that
of the vertical chain list.
The nodes of the adjacent list include the address
of a geometric entity or variable, horizontal chain
list pointer and next pointers. The constraint nodes
are considered as three different types as shown in
Figure 6, (a) the horizontal node of adjacent list of
geometric constraints, (b) the vertical node of adjacent
list of body measurement constraints, (c) the vertical
node of adjacent list of geometric constraints.
Once the properties of an entity or some variables in
constraint graphs are altered, the related entities to be con-
strained will be updated. In most cases, this requires either
a group of variables or a number of the constrained entities
in order to determine the constrained entities. If traversing
completely the adjacent list of constraints, temporary var-
iables are created for the storage of a great number of
variables that are used to update the constrained entities,
but it costs too much expense in terms of time and space.
Thus this paper defines an adjacent dimension-driven list
based on the reversible graph of a constraint graph. In the
reversible graph, vertices are unchangeable and directional
lines are changed into counter-directional lines. An adja-
cent dimension-driven list represents a sequence for updat-
ing entities and provides a variety of constraint contents,
so reduces the cost of time and space.
In an adjacent dimension-driven list, every node
comprises the address of a geometric entity, horizontal
chain list pointer, next pointer and constraint types
that describe various constraints. The vertical and hor-
izontal nodes in an adjacent dimension-driven list are
shown in Figure 7, (a) the horizontal node of adjacent
dimension-driven list, (b) the vertical node of adjacent
dimension-driven list.
The constraint type is represented by selecting user-
defined constraint class CContraint, the data member
of CContraint includes constraint types and some nec-
essary variables. The description of constraint type is as
follows:
Width//width of a rectangle
Length//length of a rectangle or length of a line
Xiu 985

1
2 3 4 5 6 8 12 14

2
3 13 14

3
9 11 12

4
5 6 7 8 9

5
8

6
7

9
10 11 13

11
13

Figure 5. Data structure of adjacent list of geometric constraints.

(b) (c)
Geometric
Variable
entity
address
(a) address
Geometric
entity Next pointer
Horizontal Horizontal
address
chain list chain list
pointer pointer

Next pointer Next pointer

Figure 6. Vertical and horizontal node of adjacent list of constraints.

LeftTopPoint//left-top point of a rectangle An adjacent dimension-driven list is expressed using

RightBottomPoint//right-bottom point of a rectangle constraint types and a group of variables according to
Left//left X coordinate of a rectangle the reversible graph in Figure 8.
Right//right Y coordinate of a rectangle
Top//top Y coordinate of a rectangle
Point//a point
FirstPoint//first point in a line
Dimension-driven process
SecondPoint//second point in a line A dimension-driven process is implemented by the
Offset//relative offset of a certain point adjacent constraint and dimension-driven lists. When
Orientation//orientation of a line a value of a variable or a geometric entity is altered,
Bisec//bisection of a line it needs to search out all related geometric entities on
MidPoint//midpoint in a line the basis of the adjacent constraint lists, the properties

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986 Textile Research Journal 81(10)

(b)

Geometric

address

Constraint
(a)
type
Geometric Constraint Next
address type pointer Horizantal

chain list

pointer

Next

pointer

Figure 7. Horizontal and vertical node of adjacent dimension-driven list.

1
Width: (B+10)/4
1 NULL
Length: LB

2 LeftTopPoint
1 NULL O rientation :0 1 Y =Right NULL
Offset:(0,-(B/8+10.5))
3 FirstPoint
2 NULL Orientation :90 1 Y=Top NULL
Offset:(B/8+7.8,0)
4 LeftTopPoint
1 NULL Orientation :90 1 Length:fabs(Left-X)/3 NULL
Offset:(B/24+3.6,0)
5
NULL Bisec :3 NO .1 1 LeftTopPoint 4 FirstPoint NULL

6
NULL Bisec :3 NO .2 1 LeftTopPoint 4 FirstPoint NULL

7
4 SecondPoint 6 Point NULL

8
4 SecondPoint 5 Point 1 LeftTopPoint NULL

9
4 SecondPoint NULL Orientation :-19 3 Intersection NULL

10
9 SecondPoint 9 Orientation NULL Length:2.2 NULL

11 SecondPoint FirstPoint
9 3 NULL
MiddlePoint MiddlePoint

12
3 SecondPoint NULL Orientation:45 1 Length:fabs(X-Right)/3 NULL

13
9 SecondPoint 11 Point 12 SecondPoint 2 SecondPoint NULL

14 RightBottomPoint
2 SecondPoint 1 NULL
Offset:(-2,0)
NULL

Figure 8. Data structure of adjacent dimension-driven list.

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Xiu 987

of updated geometric entities are derived from the adja- drive the dimension of the related entity dynamically,
cent dimension-driven list. The dimension-driven pro- but can also give a set of specific values and generate
cess is as follows: particular patterns with the same topological structure
First of all, when a set of specific value of variables automatically.
or the property of a certain entity is altered, the corre- When bust 84 cm and back length 38 cm are inputted
sponding position is located by traversing the adjacent into the system, as shown in Figure 9, the rear panel is
list of body measurement constraints and geometric obtained through parametric calculation, shown in
constraints. Figure 10.
Secondly, the address of a constrained geometric When the bust is altered from 84 cm to 88 cm, and the
entity is temporarily stored in the object chain list back length from 38 cm to 39 cm, as shown in Figure 11,
with pointer type. When traversing the adjacent con-
straint list, as long as a constrained entity is found, its
address will be stored in the object chain list, meanwhile
the address of the entity to be constrained by indirect
constraints will also be stored in the object chain list,
thus all addresses of entities to be updated are collected
together.
Finally, according to the address in the object chain
list, the address of the corresponding entity is located in
the adjacent dimension-driven list, and then the prop-
erties of all constrained entities are recalculated and
updated through the adjacent dimension-driven list
accordingly.
In this way, the system can do the necessary alter-
ation to the original design automatically and ensure
the original relations between entities are retained.

Experimental results
This paper develops the parametrically interactive
apparel CAD system entitled DisDraw. This system Figure 10. Pattern with bust 84 cm and back length 38 cm.
can not only select a certain entity interactively and

Figure 9. Data input with bust 84 cm and back length 38 cm. Figure 11. Data input with bust 88 cm and back length 39 cm.

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988
Figure 12. Pattern with bust 88 cm and back length 39 cm.
Figure 13. Data input with bust 80 cm and back length 37 cm.
the rear panel is obtained through calculation, shown in
Figure 12.
When the bust is altered from 84 cm to 80 cm,
and the back length from 38 cm to 37 cm, as shown in
Figure 13, the rear panel is gained, shown in Figure 14.
Three patterns with three groups of specific values
are combined, the discrepancy among the patterns may
be compared visually, as shown in Figure 15.
In Figure 12, the line of back width is
interactively selected and moved leftward by 1 cm to
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Textile Research Journal 81(10)
Figure 14. Pattern with bust 80 cm and back length 37 cm.
Figure 15. Three patterns of real panel with different specific
values.
create the pattern for the rear panel as shown in
Figure 16.
In Figure 12, the line of armhole depth is interac-
tively selected and moved upward by 1 cm to give the
pattern of rear panel as shown in Figure 17.
When the line of the back width and line of armhole
depth in Figure 12 are interactively selected, moved
upward and leftward by 1 cm, the pattern for rear
panel, as shown in Figure 18, is obtained.
Xiu
Figure 16. Pattern with leftward movement of line of back
width.
Figure 17. Pattern with upward movement of line of armhole
depth.
Discussion and conclusion
Based on the methodology of geometric constraints and
variables, this paper represents a constructive approach
to create a parametric pattern-making model with an
example of the rear panel of a women’s jacket.
Compared to MTM techniques, this approach has
some good characteristic aspects, shown in the last
column of Table 3.
This approach can utilize drafting design function in
the same interactive environment as conventional
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989
Figure 18. Pattern with leftward and upward movements of
line of back width and line of armhole depth, respectively.
GCAD to construct a generic pattern. The critical dif-
ference between the parametric and conventional is that
a group of variables is used in drafting and a set of
specific values is used in interactive drawing.
On the basis of the parametric pattern-making model,
the dimension-driven function is utilized in the following
aspects. Given a group of specific values of standard
body measurements, this model can produce a set of
standard patterns, it is equivalent to grading function
in mass production. Given a group of specific values of
individual body measurements, this approach can create
a set of individual patterns, it equals to the MTM func-
tion in mass customization. In the interactive and graph-
ical environment, a certain entity is selected and moved,
the related entities and constraints on them is altered
accordingly so as to optimize the particular pattern,
just as conventional GCAD can do.
Darts exist in the other parts of a women’s jacket,
such as a front panel, however, darts are not included in
a parametric pattern. Since darts are critical factors in
the structure of a pattern, dart manipulation will be
sufficiently considered in future work. A dart may be
inserted into a pattern and defined as a group entity,
also a parametric block. In the parametric modeling,
sleeves, collars and pockets may be defined as a group
entity, being similar to dart manipulation.
In addition, an entity is split into two segments, it
frequently happens in pattern-making. Two new enti-
ties and constraints on them are identified and recon-
structed, this may be solved by using the decomposition
of a constraint graph. So this approach may be contin-
uously improved in the future.
990 Textile Research Journal 81(10)

Table 3. Characteristic aspects of MTM techniques

Grading AI pattern 3D pattern Parametric design – Parametric design –

technique generating fattening variant programming geometric constraint

Principles updated advanced advanced updated advanced

Convenience for operation no yes no no yes
Pattern-making no yes yes yes yes
Grading for standard body no no no yes yes
Grading for individual body yes no yes no yes
Alteration for an entity yes no no no yes
Requirements for users high low intermediate intermediate low
Limitation for styles low high intermediate intermediate low

Funding 13. Jin Fan, Qinfu Wang, Shiang-Fong Chen, Matthew M F

This work is supported by the Science and Technology
Program of Beijing Municipal Education Commission (No.
KM201010012008).
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