Industrial Engineering

End Term Jury

Topic: Shirt Making Unit

Submitted by
Prachi Yash (BFT/17/70)
Shailja Sundaram (BFT/17/817)
 Operational Breakdown of a shirt making
process

Collar Making:

1. Mark the lining of the collar.

2. Place the two cut parts of collar keeping right side of fabric inwards.
3. Run stitches on three sides of the collar (bottom part to be left).
4. Turn the collar and iron it.
5. Perform topstitch on the three sides of the collar.
6. Hem the sides of the collar band (which has the buckram).
7. Fold the collar and collar band parts into half and make notches at its centre.
8. Place the collar in the middle with the collar band above and below it matching with
the notches.
9. Perform stitches starting from the middle to either sides of the band attaching the
collar to the collar band.
10. Turn the collar and iron it.
11. Do the centre top stitch on the collar band.

Cuff Making:

1. Place the two parts of cuff together with the right side of fabric inside.
2. Stitch three sides on the edges of the buckram.
3. Turn the collar and iron it.
4. Perform topstitch on the three sides.

Pocket Section:

1. Mark the pocket.

2. Fold the mouth of the pocket and iron it.
3. Hem the mouth of the pocket.
4. Crease the edges of the pocket.

Front Section:

1. Mark the pocket position on the front panel.

2. Form the button hole placket.
3. Crease the button hole placket by single folding it.
4. Make top stitch on the button hole placket.
 5. Sew the button placket on the other panel.
6. Attach pocket on the marked section.

Back Section:

1. Join the upper yoke panel.

2. Attach the back yoke with the back panel.
3. Make top stitch on back yoke.

Sleeve section:

1. Cut slits on the sleeve at the placket positions.

2. Fold the sleeves into half vertically and make notches.
3. Iron the upper and lower sleeve placket.
4. Attach the plackets on the sleeve.
5. Close the lower placket.
6. Close the upper placket and make diamond.

Assembly Section:

1. Set the front and back panel and mark the neck for collar.
2. Attach the shoulder and do the top stitch.
3. Attach the sleeves.
4. Make top stitch on the armhole.
5. Do the side seams.
6. Attach the collar.
7. Close the collar.
8. Attach the cuff to the sleeve and close it.
9. Do the bottom hemming.
10. Make button holes on front placket and collar.
11. Attach the buttons.
S. No. Operation Description

Collar Making
1 Mark Lining.
2 Collar run stitch.
3 Collar turn and iron.
4 Collar top stitch.
5 Collar band hem.
6 Collar attach to band.
7 Collar trimming, marking and notching.
8 Collar band centre stitch.

Cuff Section
9 Cuff hem.
10 Run stitch cuff
11 Turn cuff.
12 Iron cuffs.
13 Top stitch cuff.

Pocket Section
14 Mark pocket.
15 Pocket mouth iron.
16 Hem pocket.
17 Crease pocket.
18 Trim pocket.

Front Section
19 Mark front for pocket position.
20 Form button hole placket.
21 Crease button hole placket (single fold).
22 Top stitch button hole placket.
23 Sew button placket.
24 Attach pocket.
25 Sew label at placket.

Back Section
26 Join upper yoke panel.
27 Attach back yoke with back panel.
28 Back yoke top stitch.

Sleeve section
29 Cut sleeve slit at placket position.
30 Notch sleeves.
31 Iron upper and lower sleeve placket.
32 Attach plackets.
33 Close lower placket.
34 Close upper placket and make diamond.

Assembly Section
35 Set front and back and mark neck for collar.
36 Shoulder attach.
37 Shoulder top stitch.
38 Sleeve attach.
39 Top stitch armhole.
40 Side seam.
41 Collar attach.
42 Collar close.
43 Cuff attach and close.
44 Bottom hem.
45 Button hole – front placket and collar.
46 Button attach.
Sewing Machines

1.
Single Needle Lock Stitch (Plain, with/ without UBT): Collar and Cuff making,
Pocket hemming and pocket attach, Yoke attach, Shoulder attach, Sleeve placket
make, Sleeve attach, bottom hem, Main label attach, top stitches etc.
2. Single Needle Lock Stitch (Edge cutter): Collar run stitch and Collar attach to
collar band
3. Overlock machine: side seam overlock,etc
4. Button Stitching Machine: Attaching button to front placket and cuff
5. Button Hole Machine: Making button holes.

How to Determine Machines Requirement for a Factory?

In mass production instead of a single sewing machine, different types of machines are
installed.
When you plan for a factory set up for garment manufacturing you should select machines
based on your product profiles. Otherwise, you will have wrong machine ratio. As a result,
you will fall short of some types of machines and others will be less utilized. It is not only the
selection of correct types of machines but you should have also the correct number of
machines for all types of machine you purchase. If you purchase machines only those are
required initially then you can control in initial capital investment.

Steps for machine mix:

Step1=Select Product Type-the requirement of machine types will depend on product types
and product styling.

Product type= shirt

Step2=Daily Production Target: how many units (pieces) would like to produce monthly or
daily

Daily production target= 2000

Step3=Estimated Line Efficiency-As most of the factories run at 40% efficiency (India), use
this figure for calculations.

Step4=Next step is to seek help from the industrial engineer to prepare operation
bulletin (OB) of the product. Engineers will analysis the product and check what all types of
operations (jobs) are needed to make the garment, selection of correct types of machines for
each operation and then calculate product SAM, no. of machines for each operation, machine
requirement per line to get production as per your target.

Step5=Calculate no. of lines: Divide daily total target by per line estimated production
to calculate no. of lines. For example, if we plan for 400 pieces per line per day then you need
to set 5 lines to get 2000 pieces per day at defined line efficiency.
Step6=Make a matrix of machine mix: Once you have line wise calculated no. machines for
each product prepare a table with machine list of each product. Calculate total no. of
machines for each type.

Machine Shirt (5lines)

Snls (with thread trimmer) 140
Snls (edge cutter) 15
Overlock 8
Buttonhole 8
Button stitch 8
Total 179
Ergonomic Requirements

While developing improved methods, one of the important factors that need careful
consideration is the human factor. It is necessary to ensure that the conditions under which
the work is performed are comfortable and safe to the employees. In fact, often higher output
and cost reduction can be achieved by merely improving' the working conditions. Many times
this aspect is neglected. Poor working conditions besides being injurious to the health of the
workers, increase the personal time of workers and may result in wastage of material and loss
in output. The benefits· resulting from improving working environment are often intangible
and indirect. Many times methods improvement studies are carried out with the main
objective of improving the job conditions. Improving the safety and reduction of accidents
are very much a part of method study. Improved working conditions improve the morale and
encourage the workers to give their best. Following are some of the considerations that
should be borne in mind:

(i) Lighting

(ii) Ventilation

(iii) Humidity and temperature

(iv) Cleanliness and housekeeping

(v) Colour

(vi) Noise

(vii) Seating

(viii) Hazards and safety

(ix) Amenities such as toilets, canteens, medical facilities, etc.

Each one of the above factors has an important bearing on output and productivity.
Insufficient light is not only injurious to the eyes of the worker but also slows down work.
The quantity, quality, colour, brightness etc., of light are all points that need careful
consideration. Similarly all other factors like ventilation, humidity, noise, etc., are factors
demanding serious consideration. Importance of maintaining cleanliness and proper hygienic
conditions, providing amenities such as drinking water and other facilities need emphasis.
More than 30 per cent of the total industrial accidents are caused by manual handling.
Method study can play a significant role in reducing the rate of accidents and the extent of
injuries caused to the workers. This shows a direct improvement in productivity, not only
because of savings in lost hours, but also because of improved morale of the work force.
To reduce the chance of injury, work tasks should be designed to limit exposure to ergonomic
risk factors. Engineering controls are the most desirable, where possible. Administrative or
work practice controls may be appropriate in some cases where engineering controls cannot
be implemented or when different procedures are needed after implementation of the new
engineering controls. Personal protection solutions have only limited effectiveness when
dealing with ergonomic hazards.

Type of Control
1) Engineering Controls (implement physical change to the workplace, which
eliminates/reduces the hazard on the job/task)
Workplace Examples

 Use a device to lift and reposition heavy objects to limit force exertion
 Reduce the weight of a load to limit force exertion
 Reposition a work table to eliminate a long/excessive reach and enable working in neutral
postures
 Use diverging conveyors off a main line so that tasks are less repetitive
 Install diverters on conveyors to direct materials toward the worker to eliminate excessive
leaning or reaching
 Redesign tools to enable neutral postures

2) Administrative and Work Practice Controls (establish efficient processes or

procedures)

Workplace Examples

 Require that heavy loads are only lifted by two people to limit force exertion
 Establish systems so workers are rotated away from tasks to minimize the duration of
continual exertion, repetitive motions, and awkward postures. Design a job rotation
system in which employees rotate between jobs that use different muscle groups
 Staff "floaters" to provide periodic breaks between scheduled breaks
 Properly use and maintain pneumatic and power tools

3) Personal Protective Equipment (use protection to reduce exposure to ergonomics-

related risk factors)

Workplace Examples

 Use padding to reduce direct contact with hard, sharp, or vibrating surfaces
 Wear good fitting thermal gloves to help with cold conditions while maintaining the
ability to grasp items easily.
Ergonomics aims at preventing injuries by controlling the risk factors such as force,
repetition, posture and vibration that can cause injuries to develop. Some
fundamental ergonomic principles that should be followed in our workplaces are:
1. Use proper tools Tools should be appropriate for the specific tasks being performed.
2. Keep repetitive motions to a minimum Our workstations or tasks can often be
redesigned to reduce the number of repetitive motions that must be performed.
3. Avoid awkward postures Your job should not require you to work with your hands
above shoulder height on a regular basis.
4. Use safe lifting procedures Avoid lifting objects that are too heavy. Use more than
one person or a mechanical device to reduce the load.
5. Get proper rest You need to rest your body and mind in order to prevent injuries.
6. Other things to consider Garment workers can avoid eye injuries by using proper
shields on high-speed sewing machinery or safety glasses where appropriate. Also,
adequate task lighting at individual workstations can prevent eyestrain.
 SAM

Standard Allowed Minute (SAM) is used to measure task or work content of a garment. So
you need to calculate the garment SAM to establish the standard time of the individual
garment operations as well as the whole garment SAM.

This 'SAM' term is widely used by industrial engineers and garment production people in the
garment manufacturing industry.

To estimate SAM you have to analyze the garment carefully and check different factors that
affect the SAM. SAM of a product varies according to the work content or simply according
to number of operations, length of seams, fabric types, stitching accuracy needed, sewing
technology to be used etc.

But still many of us inquire for approximate SAM values for basic products, like Tee Shirt,
Formal shirt, Formal trouser or jacket. An estimated SAM helps in capacity planning of the
factory, calculating requirement of machineries and even helps to estimate CM (cut and
make) costing of a garment.

Standard minutes (SAM) of few basic products have been listed down with its SAM range
according to work content variation. In actual cases garment SAM may go outside of the limit
depending the above factors. This list will be updated time to time adding more products.
The applications of SAM are:

• Firm as well as individual operator’s performance

• Operator and associated cost ratios

• Operators’ payroll and incentive amount

• SAM is one of the key parameters in state-of-the-art production scheduling methods

like in line balancing and performance measuring systems.

Calculation of SAM of a garment:

For the valuation of garment cost, determination of SAM value plays a critical role. General
sewing data (GSD) has a definite set of codes for motion data for determination of SAM.
According to research, standard minute value has been defined for each movement needed to
accomplish a job. Synthetic data are available for each movement, while performing specific
steps in a garment manufacturing. There are two methods of calculating SAM. One is
calculated by synthetic data and another is by time study.

Calculation of SAM by synthetic data:

In this system ‘predetermined time standard’ codes are utilized to establish ‘standard time’ of
a specific style of garment. The step-by-step procedure for calculation of SAM by this
method is given below.

• Selection of any one process or operation for which the SAM has to be determined.

• Study of various motions of the specific process/operation performed by an operator

and remarking all movements used by the operator in carrying out one complete cycle of
work.

• Enlist various motions performed by an operator sequentially. By referring to GSD

and synthetic data for time measurement unit (TMU) values, TMU value (1 TMU = 0.0006
minute) for one operation could be obtained, which is then converted into minutes which is
known as basic time.

• SAM = Basic minute + Bundle allowances (10%) + Machine and personal allowances
(10%).
Calculation of SAM by time study:

The step-by-step procedure for calculation of SAM by this method is given below.

• Selection of one process or operation for which the SAM has to be estimated.

• Note down the cycle time (total time necessary to carry out all tasks required to
complete one operation) for the specific operation using a stop watch by standing at the side
of the operator using the stop watch. It has to be done for five consecutive cycles of that
operation and the average has to be determined. Basic time = cycle time × performance
rating.

• Establishing the performance rating of an operator after evaluating his or her

movement and work speed. Suppose if the performance rating of an operator is 85% and the
cycle time is 0.55 minutes, then basic time = (0.55 × 85%) = 0.46 minutes.

• SAM = Basic minute + Bundle allowances (10%) + Machine and personal allowances
(20%). Now, SAM = (0.46 + 0.046 + 0.092) = 0.598 minutes.

Functions of SAM value in production planning:

1. Determination of line capacity – The systematic method of estimating the production

capacity of a line by utilising the SAM of a garment.

2. Determination of lead time – Based on the production capacity of a garment unit,

order allocation has to be done for different lines.

3. Order booking – While booking the orders, available capacity in a particular period of
time has to be taken into account. In these circumstances, determination of time required to
complete the new order using SAM and comparing the same with production minutes
available in the factory for the particular period will be helpful.

4. Process scheduling – Time and action calendar of each and every order is carried out
by the production planning department based on capacity of each process, which is known by
calculating SAM.

5. Order execution and production monitoring – SAM facilitates the production planning
department to set targets for sewing lines.

6. Estimation of labor – For the estimation of labour cost for a particular style, the SAM
value will play a vital role.
Sl. No. Operation List SAM
1 Pinning to profile 0.234
2 Run stitch collar 0.219
3 Trim collar 0.285
4 Clip and turn collar 0.223
5 Crease collar 0.381
6 Top stitch collar 0.42
7 Run stitch (R/s) collar band 0.291
8 Crease collar band 0.317
9 Insert collar in neck band 0.799
10 Turn and crease collar 0.452
11 Attach bias piece to cuff 0.874
12 Crease cuff 0.458
13 Hem cuff 0.501
14 R/s cuff 0.565
15 Trim cuff 0.36
16 Turn cuff 0.527
17 Crease cuff bottom 0.566
18 Attach placket to sleeve 0.795
19 Lock and make diamond 1.026
20 Sew pleats (4 no.) 0.389
21 Hem right front 0.494
22 Attach front placket 0.603
23 Crease pocket 0.542
24 Hem pocket mouth 0.28
25 Attach pocket to front 0.861
26 Attach brand label and tack loop 0.589
27 Crease patch pieces 0.236
28 Attach patch piece 0.333
29 Sew pleats 0.278
30 Attach yoke to back 0.475
31 Top stitch back yoke 0.365
32 Join shoulder 0.64
33 Top stitch shoulder 0.656
34 Attach collar 0.535
35 Close collar with size label 1.01
36 Sleeve attach 0.862
37 Top stitch armhole 0.678
38 Top stitch side seam 1.036
39 Attach & close cuff 0.696
40 Top stitch cuff 0.524
41 Hem bottom 0.947
Total SAM 22.322