Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
Features
storage solutions
Compact Tool Shelf ~
This wall-mounted shelf will keep your
most-often used tools close at hand.
fine tools
InfillSmoothing Plane gIg 18
Beauty and utility come together in this
great-looking smoothing plane.
hands-on technique
Logs to Lumber 26
Use your band saw to turn backyard logs into
specialty lumber perfect for small projects.
weekend project
Plywood Cutting Rack 30
Plywood Cutting Rack page 30 Cutting sheet goods down to size is a snap
with this easy-to-use cutting rack.
best-built jigs & fixtures
Router Lift 34
A handful of parts and hardware is all you
need to make your own precision router lift.
Departments
Readers' Tips 4
router workshop
Mortises Made Easy 8
Smooth, accurate mortises are easy at the
router table. We'll show you how.
jigs & accessories
Mortises Made Easy page 8 Eliminate Rust with Wire Wheels ----- 10
Here's what you need to know about choosing
and using wire wheels and brushes in the shop.
materials & hardware
Go Mobile with Casters 12
Make better use of the space in your shop by
going mobile. The right casters make it a snap.
2
Cutoffs
T hey often say bad things come in
threes. But that hasn't been my
experience lately. I'd have to say it's the good
things that really come in threes. For start-
ers, we're celebrating the 20th anniversary of
ShopNotes magazine. While I wasn't here for
the first issue, I received it in the mail as a
charter subscriber. Its content and focus on
the shop ultimately led me here. Whether
you've been with us from the start or just
started with the most recent issue, I'd love to
hear what you've liked best and what you'd
like to see in the next twenty years.
Another good thing is the release of the
DVD collection of the first four seasons of the
Woodsmith Shop television show. Each season
consists of 13 episodes (30-minute shows) on
a pair of DVDs. If you've watched the show,
you know we mention the free plans, articles,
and extra videos that are available online. But
we've included all that information on a sepa-
rate CD along with the DVD set. So, everything
in the shop that was shown on the original TV show and
Traditional Oil Finishes 42 online is now in the boxed set. You can find
Get a great look on any project with traditional, out how to order the complete four-season
easy-to-apply oil finishes.
DVD set (or individual seasons) by turning
setting up shop
to Sources on page 51.
Tool Cabinet Makeover 44
Finally, the third good thing is a collection
These five easy upgrades will turn any metal
tool cabinet into a shop workhorse. of great projects and articles in this issue. In
mastering the table saw particular, the infill smoothing plane starting
Dealing with Dust 46 on page 18. If the attention and interest it's
Corral the dust from your table saw with these generated around here is any indication, I'm
handy tips and tricks. betting it will be popular with you, too.
great gear
Spray Adhesives 48
Glue from a spray can? Here's the latest in
getting stronger bonds the easy way
Q&A __________________________ 50
This symbol lets you know
Sources --------------------------------------- 51 there's more information
~iONLINE available online at
~EXTRAS ShopNotes.com
ShopN otes.com 3
Dovetail Key Jig
I've always liked the look and 45° (drawings below). A groove
the added strength you get from along the inside face of the bev-
dovetail keys on mitered boxes. eled edge completes the sides.
But every jig I've seen to make This groove holds a ~" hard-
them requires a router table. That's board table that supports the
why I decided to make my own jig base of the router as you make
to use with a handheld router. the cuts. You want to cut the
The jig starts with two identi- table to trap the base of the router base is made extra wide so the jig
cally shaped sides made from 1!z" snugly between the two sides can be clamped in place.
plywood. Each side has a square with a smooth sliding fit. A cen- The photo above shows how
notch cut into it and the edge tered slot in the table creates an easy it is to use the jig. Clamp it
opposite the notch is beveled at opening for the dovetail bit. in place over the comer and then
The two parts of the base position the router on the table
attach to each side of the with the bit at the top of the slot.
notch and register against Just hold the router firmly as you
the mitered comer of the slide it along the table.
assembly to be routed. David Ross
As you see above, the Jacksonville, FL
I
NOTE: SIZE 10
TABLE AND BASE
TO FIT YOUR
ROUTER BASE
SIDE
VIEW
TWO-PART BASE
CONSTRUCTED FROM
W'HARDBOARD
~------10---------
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ShopN otes.com 5
Adjustable Square
I've built quite a few cabinets
over the years. And one of the
challenges that always comes up
is marking a straight line on the
inside of the case for partitions
or drawer slides. The problem
is most store-bought squares are
either too long to fit or too short
to draw the line I need.
The solution I came up with is
an adjustable square. It's simple
to build and works great. So well,
in fact, that I use it all the time on
all kinds of projects.
What makes the square so ver-
LOCKING
satile is its sliding tongue design. And instead of permanently So when fitting the parts for the
KNOB As you can see in the photo and attaching the tongue to the head, head, I used the width of the
drawings, there's a long slot cut I use a bolt and knob to secure tongue to set the spacing of the
along the length of the tongue. the two together. When I need a head components. Finally, apply
shorter square, I simply loosen a coat of wax between the head
the knob and slide the head and the tongue and you'll have
GROOVE
(3/8" X 22") down the length of the tongue. no problem making adjustments.
IS CENTERED
ON TONGUE It's important for the two pieces Lee Armstrong
Y2" to remain square to each other. Carver,MN
ROUNDOVER
HEAD IS TWO
LAYERS%"
PLYWOOD
2%"-RAD. 3/8"-DIA.
HOLE
~
t t$t 4Y2
FIRST: TRACE
PATTERN
Oval Clamping Tip
If you've ever had to glue up stock to make an oval
frame, you know how difficult it is to apply glue
and then clamp all the joints at once. Recently, when
I faced this task, I figured there had to be a better
way. So I came up with a method of clamping the
joints using my pockethole jig.
SECOND: DRILL Once you have all your pieces cut to the desired
POCKET HOLES IN
WASTE PORTION
lengths and all the joints fit, dry assemble them \)
and then layout your oval shape. With the pat-
tern marked on the workpieces, drill pocket holes
into the waste area of your boards as shown in the
drawing. This will allow you to glue up one joint
at a time using the pockethole screws as "clamps"
to keep the joints tight while the glue dries. After a
short wait, you can cut out the pattern and have a
perfect oval without any gaps at the joint lines.
Greg Fox
Tiffin,OH
WOODEN
TURN BUTTONS
HOLD LEGS
WITHIN TOP
LEGS FIT IN
UNDERSIDE OF
TABLE TOP FOR
STORAGE
NOTE: USE NOTCHES
IN LONG EDGES FOR
SHORT VERSION
NOTE: SLOTS
ARE SIZED FOR
END 25 ~ %" PLYWOOD
('W'""'~") ~:"
Quick Tips
ShopN otes.com 7
A simple setup is all it takes to master a
new trick for your router table .
• Using a router to make a mor-
tise isn't a new idea. However,
the road. You can use an ordinary
straight bit, but I find that a spiral
.• Ready to Go. A routed
mortise has smooth, flat cheeks
the technique usually involves upcut bit creates a smoother mor- that create a strong glue joint.
a plunge router and a special jig tise and puts less strain on the
to do the job. But there's another router. You can see an example in position them correctly. The
way - at the router table. the left margin photo. idea is to clamp them in place
The best part is you don't have The overall size of the bit deter- so they automatically establish
to build any complicated jigs. mines the width and depth of the the beginning and end of the
With a few simple add-ons, you mortise. The most common bit mortise when the workpiece is
can quickly turn your router table sizes are l,.4" and 112". The cutting butted against them. You can
into a precision mortising station. length of the bit determines the see how this works in the draw-
In a nutshell, you use a pair maximum depth of the mortise ing on the top of the next page.
of stop blocks and a guide rail you can make. For example, the I use layout lines on one of the
to create a channel for the work- 1,.4"spiral bit shown here has a 1" workpieces as a gauge to help
piece as it moves across the cutting length. position the stop blocks.
bit. The advantage of using the Fence. You can now get your Guide Rail. The final add-on is
router table is that once it's set router table set up for mortis- a guide rail. Its job is to keep the
up, it's quick and easy to create ing. This begins with the fence. workpiece moving in a straight
mortises in multiple parts. The router table fence guides the line along the fence.
Of course, this technique workpiece and locates the bit in Like the stop blocks, the guide
requires you to lower a work- relation to the edge of the work- rail isn't fancy. It's just a piece of
.A Best Bit. A piece onto a spinning bit. And I'll piece. However, there are a few hardwood glued to a plywood
spiral upcut bit admit that this may sound a little other additions. clamp pad. Position the guide
works best for unsettling. But the approach I use Two Stop Blocks. The first rail so that the workpiece can
routing mortises. makes the process a piece of cake. of these is a pair of stop blocks. slide smoothly between the rail
Right Bit. Let's start with the The location of the blocks is and the router table fence. With
bit. It's where the rubber meets important, so take some time to the rail in place, you can focus
simply on pushing the workpiece cooler and cut smoother. All you of the workpiece. They mark the
forward to make the cut. need to do to complete the mor- leading end of the mortise. This
Rout the Mortise. Once the tise is raise the bit another 1,-4" and mark is aligned with a line on the
setup is complete, you can begin repeat the process as many times router table fence that indicates the
creating the mortise. It's a good as necessary. As you rout, be sure front edge of the bit. On my router
idea to cut the mortise in several to keep firm downward pressure table, I use the joint between the
shallow passes. So on the first on the workpiece so the depth of sliding faces for this mark, as you
pass, set the bit height to 1,-4". cut is consistent. can see in the inset photo below.
Turn on the router and brace Long Parts. Depending on To rout the mortise, you can
the near end of the workpiece the length of the workpiece, you use the right edge of the router
against the right-hand stop block may run into a problem with this table as a pivot point to lower
with the opposite end held above arrangement. Long workpieces the workpiece onto the bit. Then
the bit, as shown in the main may not fit between a pair of stop just rout the mortise in a series of
photo on the facing page. Lower blocks on the fence. So you'll need passes as I described earlier.
the workpiece onto the bit and to adjust the setup. The two pho- When you're finished, the
press it down against the table. tos below show you the solution. mortise walls will be smooth
Then simply slide the workpiece But I'd like to cover the details. and even. You can square up the
over until it touches the other You can still use one stop block rounded ends of the mortise with
stop block and turn off the router. to establish the end of the mortise. a chisel. Or simply round the
I like to clear out the packed But to begin the cut, I rely on a set mating tenons to fit with a file.
chips from the mortise between of layout lines. The first layout Either way, you'll have a strong,
each pass. It helps the bit to run lines are on the face and top edge long-lasting joint. (i
ShopN otes.com 9
Accessories
metal magic
WireWheels
BcBrushes
If you work with metal, you'll
want to get familiar with
these handy shop tools .
ShopN otes.com 11
Hardware
Polyurethane, '
double-locking Steel, swivel Plastic, fixed Wood, single-locking
Rubber, single-locking
12 ShopNotes No. 121
..•• Stem Casters.
A caster like this
i Cam-Style Brakes. This type i Double-Locking. To provide is a good choice
of brake locks the wheel, but not added security, this style of brake for fixtures that
the swivel of the caster. locks both the wheel and swivel. have long and
narrow legs, like
Swivel casters make it easier to your hands to lock and unlock Recently, wood casters have a router table.
maneuver and park tools. Fixed the casters (left photo above). made a resurgence. These look
casters are more efficient at trav- A better option is a double- great on rolling cabinets made of
eling in a straight line. To get locking caster that prevents both wood and are worth a closer look.
the best of both worlds, you can swiveling and rolling. As you They can be a bit pricey, however.
install two fixed and two swivel depress the lock, brake shoes Size & Capacity. As a general
casters. This offers a good com- engage both the wheel and the rule, the bigger the caster, the
promise between moving and roller bearing for a secure hold easier it will roll over uneven
turning capabilities. (exploded view on opposite floors and obstructions like
Lock or No Lock. For safety's page). A double-locking caster power cords. Of course, bigger
sake, it's usually a good idea to can also be locked or unlocked casters are also more expen-
use locking casters whenever using your foot, as you can see in sive. Luckily, there is a happy
possible. This is especially true the center photo above. medium. Casters with 3" to 4"
for casters mounted to a tool. Material. You can buy inex- wheels seem to work fine for
You don't want it to shift around pensive casters made from hard most uses around the shop.
while you work. plastic, but just remember that Bigger casters usually have a
Some casters have earn-style you get what you pay for. These higher weight capacity, but not
compression brakes on the sides casters are much more prone to always. The weight capacity is
that simply prevent them from warp or break, and they can't typically printed right on the
rolling. These are the least expen- support the sarne heavy loads product packaging, so make sure
sive locking casters, but they that other materials can. you buy casters strong enough
have limitations. For one thing, Hard rubber or polyurethane to support what you're putting
they can still swivel as you apply casters are standards for shop on top of them. Then you can
pressure to the fixture above the tools. They cost more but roll rest assured that the casters you
caster. The earn-style casters often smoothly. Steel casters are also a use in your shop will be both
require stooping down and using durable, but expensive, option. convenient and safe. A
ShopN otes.com 13
storage solu
FRONT RAIL OF
TOOL RACK 15
~ DETACHABLE TO
ADD OR REMOVE
SPACERS
DIVIDERS FIT IN
DADOES IN SHELF
AND BOTTOM
NOTE: REFER TO
SOURCES ON PAGE 51
FOR DRAWER KNOBS
CASE JOINERY DRAWER SIDES FIT
REINFORCED INTO RABBETS CUT
WITH SCREWS IN FRONT & BACK
ShopN otes.com 15
NOTE: CUT
JOINERY IN ENDS
BEFORE CUTTING
BEVEL
a.
#6 x lv," Fh
WOODSCREW
i
,
I
\
\
\ I
:''I '\\
\
\
\
1
3;,,"-DIA.
WOOD
PLUG
I: 'i
f~
i! i I
!0
@
END
(6" x 14")
I,
{f f
II I;
l! / \
·- .-.-
FIGURE
,
I
I
\
I
I@
,
I L __
,
J ~
I
b. SIDE VIEW
()
The drawings below step you through the blank (left drawing below). Your goal here
process of making the spacers for the tool is a sliding fit in the groove on the front and
rack. Since the parts are so small, it's safer to rear rails of the tool rack.
shape the parts starting with an extra-wide Now move the fence away from the bit
blank planed to 1;2" in thickness. to cut a groove on each face of the blank
At the router table, you'll use a straight (center drawing). Rip the shape free (right
bit to form a tongue along the edge of the drawing) and then cut the spacers to length.
\ '.
~ ,
\!-l
,
\
" \ '\ ~ ~
I I
SIDE VlEW_
SIDE VIEW V2 ~
ShopN otes.com 17
·-....;~~.~":"i{~
TOTE IS CUSTOM-FIT
TO YOUR HANDS THREE-PIECE
REAR INFILL
CREATES A SOLID.
FLAT BED FOR
THE IRON
CURVED SIDES
GIVE THE PLANE
A UNIQUE LOOK
WALNUT INFILL
ANGLE ON BUN IS "OVERSTUFFED"
ALLOWS SHAVINGS SO ITS FLUSH
TO ESCAPE WITH THE SIDES
WOOD INFILL PIECES OF THE BODY
ARE ANCHORED
TO THE BODY o
WITH THROUGH PINS
AND EPOXY
SIDES
ARE LOCKED
TO THE SOLE
WITH SHORT
J
DOWEL PINS ;p-
Materials
& Hardware
A Sides (2) 2 x 7 - %2 Steel
B Sole (1) 2 x 8Y2 rgh. - ~6 Steel
C Lever Cap (1) 13~2 x 3 - ~6 Steel
o Bun (1) 2~6 x 2h - 1% rgh.
E Tote (1) 1x 4%-7 rgh.
Style.
F Cheeks (2) 1~6 x 2Y4 - 491\6
The thick steel
• (1)Wg" x ~6"-thick Plane Iron body gives this
• (1)%-16 x 1Y4" Rh Machine Screw ->; plane the heft to make
ShopN otes.com
start with the
Steel Body
The work on the hand plane
begins by creating a solid steel
body to hold the wood infill and
blade. The body is made up of
three pieces. There are two sides
and a sole. (Later on, the sole
will be cut into two parts.) These
pieces are held together with
steel dowel pins.
You can't connect the sides and
sole right off the bat. It makes
sense to shape the side pieces
first and drill the holes that are
needed to join them to the sole,
the wood infill, and the lever cap.
I started by cutting blanks for the
sides from a length of %z"-thick
steel bar stock. i Perforate the Profile. Drill a i Connect the Dots. The holes
The steel I chose for the plane series of holes along the edge reduce friction and help guide
is precision-ground stock. That of the profile to ease the cutting. the hack saw to cut curves.
means it's consistent in width
and thickness, unlike the rolled costs more. But the payoff is the a little daunting. But there's a
stock you'll find at the hardware time and frustration saved by way to simplify the process. At
store. As you might imagine, it working with flat, uniform parts. the drill press, I drilled a series of
I cut a 7"-10ng blank from each holes just outside the edge of the
end of the 24"-10ngbar I ordered. profile (left photo above). Then,
This gave me a square comer on you can "connect the dots" with
each piece to use for the front end a hack saw (right photo above).
of the plane body. Drilling and cutting still leaves
Layout. Laying out the sides on a pretty ragged edge. So smooth-
the blanks comes next. I used the ing the rough edges into a crisp
pattern below to make a Ys" hard- profile is the next order of busi-
board template. The template ness. A little work at the bench
made it easy to trace the pattern grinder removes most of the
i Fine-Tune the Shape. Tape the on the steel blanks (top photo). waste. For fine-tuning the sides,
side pieces together and use files to Shortcut. All the metal that I taped the two pieces together
clean up the cut edges. needs to be removed may seem and used files and sandpaper to
I I I I
.>
...
~ V\
j
\ :/ -$- /
-$- ,-V \
FACTORY CUT -$-
NOTE: ALL HOLES
ARE %2" DIA.
~"- ---- ----c......
~~
-$- - -
-$- -$- -$- -$- -$- -$- -$- -$- -$- -$- -$-
20 ShopNotes No. 121
SIDE
(2" x T' - 5/"2" STEEL) NOTE: SPACER GLUED UP
A FROM THREE LAYERS OF %" MDF
the sides to the sole, as in the The trick is keeping all the parts
upper left photo. A pair of holes in place. To do this, you can
at the front and back anchor the attach all three pieces to an MDF
wood infill to the sides with long spacer, as shown in Figure 1. Drill
pins. Finally, I drilled a hole near holes at each end of the sole and
the top of the hump. This will be screw the sole to the spacer. (The
the pivot point for the lever cap. holes get cut away later.) Then
! Deburr the Holes. Touch up After drilling the holes, I loosely clamp the sides in place.
the holes on the inner and outer touched up the edges on the inner Use a reference line on the spacer
faces with a countersink bit. and outer faces with a counter- to keep the side pieces aligned.
sink bit (lower left photo). This Once I was satisfied with the
work down to the lines and guar- deburrs the holes and makes fit- position of the parts, I screwed
antee the sides were identical. ting the wood parts easier. the sides to the spacer with
Drilling Holes. Leave the The Sole. The other part of roundhead screws. While the
sides taped together while you the body to make is the sole. I screws do a good job of holding
use a second pattern and a cen- started with an extra-long blank. the parts together, they don't
terpunch to mark a series of The first step is to drill holes allow the body to lie flat. I sup-
holes. A row of holes along the in the edge of the sole that line ported the body on a piece of ply-
bottom accepts short pins to join up with the holes in the sides. wood. A couple of shallow holes
accept the screw heads, as in Fig-
ure 2a. Then it's just a matter of
drilling the holes along each edge
of the sole using the holes in the
sides as guides, as in Figure 2.
a. END VIEW
SIDE
DRILL HOLES
ALONG EACH
EDGE OF SOLE
USING HOLES IN
SIDES AS GUIDES
ShopN otes.com 21
making the REAR SOLE
PIECE IS CUT
FLUSH WITH
Sole &
END OF SIDES
ss
\
Lever Cap
There's still a little metal work
left to wrap up before the plane
body can be assembled. Up first
is cutting the sale blank into a
front and back section. Then
comes some final sizing. The
FILE AND SAND A GENTLE RADIUS
metalworking portion ends with ON THE FRONT END AFTER ASSEMBLY
making the lever cap and screw.
SIDE VIEW
A
These two items provide the
clamping force that keeps the 0
plane blade in place.
The Mouth. There are a couple
o
THICKNESS OF BLADE
DETERMINES /
/ 0
SCRIBE
0 MOUTH OPENING ~ BED ANGLE ON SIDE
of considerations when cutting 0
the sale into its two parts. The
~~ TO MARK MOUTH ~
first is it needs to be in the correct
0 o 0 v 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 5/'6
v==
DRILL HOLE
The key here isn't whacking the FOR PIVOT PIN
pins mercilessly. Moderate taps
will mushroom the heads and
SECOND:
SHAPE
GENTLE CURVE
ON FRONT ~ 1Y2~.
~MJ HOLE CENTERED
flare the sides of the pins to lock OF LEVER CAP ON THICKNESS
custom-made
CapScrew
The screw for the lever cap
is made from a machine
screw with a large head.
2.. . ..
The photos at right cover .
the main points, and I'll .•. Score the Head. A hole saw .•. Tap Threads. Drill a o/r6"-dia.
mention a few details. shapes the head and drills an hole and tap it to match the %"-16
The head is made from a initial pilot hole. threads on the machine screw.
piece of the sale and lever cap stock.
Use a I" hole saw to score the overall shape of the
head, but stop before cutting completely through.
(The pilot bt should drill completely through the cen-
ter hole.) Leave the blank in place and drill and tap
the center hole to match the machine screw. Reinstall
the hole saw and complete cutting out the head.
To give the head a better grip, I chucked it into
the drill press with a bolt and jam nuts. Then I cut
two grooves in the edge with a hack saw. A support
block helps to hold the hack saw steady. Finally, .•. Grooves. A hack saw sup- .•. No Slot. After threading the
thread the head onto the screw with thread lock ported by a hardwood block cuts head onto the screw, grind
then grind and file away the machine screw's slot. shallow grooves in the head. away the machine screw slot.
ShopN otes.com 23
creating the
Tote & Bun
After all the grinding, filing and and irregular, it's a good idea to
peening, I was happy to move start with an extra-long blank.
back into the more familiar ter- This allows you to make the
ritory of woodworking and got angled cut on the back safely.
busy on the infill pieces. At the The width of the blank should
back, a D-shaped tote and a pair match the outside width of the
of cheeks provide a solid bed for plane body. The first item is to cut
the iron. Up front, a rounded bun a shallow rabbet on each side of
provides a comfortable grip. the bun so that it can slip into the
Front Bun. I began with the body. I deliberately set the dado .•. Comfortable Grip. Rasps
easiest part - the bun. Because blade a little low and shallow. and files make quick work of
the final shape of the bun is small This allows me to sneak up on creating a custom-fit tote,
the depth and width of the rab-
bet for a nice, snug fit (Figure 5). You can complete the bun by
~ From there, I marked and cut rounding the upper edges for a
D
BUN the bevel on the back edge of the comfortable grip (Figure 5).
(251\6" x 2V2" - l-ra" rgh.) Rear Infi11. I mentioned before
bun. Lay the bun on its side and
angle the miter gauge to match that the rear infill is made up of
the angle of the sale. To balance several layers. Let's.' start with
the bun while making the cut, I middle layer - the tote.
I---G
placed a shim under the rabbet. For now, you can concentrate
Shaping. That takes care of on cutting and shaping the back
SIDE VIEW
the back end of the bun. For the end of the tote. Use the pattern
front, slide the bun into place at left to cut the profile and hand J I)
f
and line up the bevel with the hole. (The angled front edge
mouth. Trace the curved sale will be cut later on.) With rasps,
75·
on the bottom side of the bun. files, and sandpaper, smooth and
~~~~~~-------- Then make a quick trip to the roundover the edges to create a
band saw to cut the rough shape. comfortable grip for your hand.
PATTERN (ENLARGE TO 200%)
II
/ If
I /
/A
II
+
~
I '\~
''\
(
/~
Wf\STE
<,
<,
FIRST: FORM
HANDLE ON BACK
OF TOTE AND
SHAPE EDGES TO
FIT YOUR HAND
'\
I I
,I (
I / ~
CHEEKS
"
TOTE
I (131\6" x 2'4" - 5" rgh,)
\ I
I
~~V./ I
I I ~~ I
F
FOURTH:
~ ~ I~ CUT BACK OF
CHEEK AND f\
ROUND OVER II
1
ShopNotes. PATTERN (ENLARGE TO 200%) EDGES
_-?/
~)ONLINE
w."EXTRAS
To print full-size
patterns for the tote
and cheeks, go to:
ShopNotes.com
PINS RUN
COMPLETELY
THROUGH
PLANE BODY
TOP
VIEW
SECOND: FIT
BUN IN PLACE,
DRILL PIN HOLES
AND INSERT PINS
FOURTH:
FILE AND SAND
ALL PINS SMOOTH.
THEN SAND SIDES AND
SOLE UP TO 400-GRIT
Cheeks. With the tote shaped, use chisels and files to flatten the line up with the flare on the sides
you can turn your attention to the recess and trim the shoulder to of the plane body.
outer layers of the rear infill. You match the curved side. It's better to gradually work up
can start by planing two blanks. You have two goals here. The to the right fit than to try and do
The combined size of the cheeks outer face of each cheek should it in one fell swoop. To do this,
and tote needs to match the over- be flush with the side of the body. slip the rear infill into the body
all width of the plane body. And the tote and cheeks should and drill holes through the sides.
The cheeks have a shallow slip into the plane body snugly. A pair of pins register the infill,
recess to allow them to wrap When you're happy with the so you can mark the cut line on
around the sides of the plane, fit, cut the rear curve at the band the sides and bottom edge. Tilt
as in Figure 6. Align each blank saw. All that's left is to clean up the miter gauge and make a cut
with the end of the plane side and the saw marks and round over the short of the line. Check the fit in
scribe the profile onto the blank. edge (Figure 6). At this point, you the plane body and repeat the
A Forstner bit in the drill press can glue up the rear infill pieces. process. When you're close, you
makes quick work of defining the Bed Angle. The task now is to can do some final fitting with
bottom of the recess. The depth of create the bed for the iron on the files and sandpaper.
cut should match the thickness of front of the rear infill. It needs to There's just one thing left to do
the side (%2"). Back at the bench, match the angle of the sole and on the rear infill. And that's to
drill a hole to accept a rare-earth
choosing a good magnet and cup. This keeps the
iron from slipping out of the body
Finish when the lever cap is loosened.
Final Assembly. At this point,
You really can't go wrong in The plane is ready for assembly.
choosing a finish for this plane. The steps are detailed in Figure 7.
I applied a coat of boiled linseed The final detail is to fine-tune
oil to really bring out the choco- the mouth. To eliminate tearout
late brown of the walnut infill while planing, the mouth should
(photo at right). But oil doesn't be tight. Install the blade to check
offer much protection. To the fit. If necessary, file the front
improve the durability and add part of the sole to open the mouth
some sheen, I wiped on a few slightly. Once you apply a finish,
coats _of wiping varnish. When the result is a plane that works as
it was dry, I buffed it smooth. great as it looks. 4.
ShopN otes.com 25
Your band saw and a simple sled are all ittakes
to create one-of-a-kind boards from firewood .
• A chance for free lumber is hard
to pass up for most woodwork-
commonly find in a lumberyard.
Small pieces of wood like this can
Have Patience. Another con-
sideration is that freshly cut logs
ers. As a result, I've often been be used for making everything and branches are pretty wet. So
BASE IS MADE tempted by the possibility of from turning blanks and tool han- don't expect to use the boards
FROM Yz" BALTIC
BIRCH PLYWOOD, using unique-looking pieces of dles to small cabinets and boxes. you cut right away. This also
8"WIDEAND The challenge is turning a log
SLIGHTLY LONGER
firewood. Even logs and branches means you need a place to stack
THAN WORKPIECE from trees cut down in the neigh- into usable boards. But if you the boards while they dry.
borhood catch my eye. These have a band saw, you're halfway Take Care. The final consider-
are often from spe- there. Think of it as a miniature ation is safety. Be on the lookout
cies you won't sawmill. However, there are a for embedded metal objects like
few things to consider. nails and staples. A hand-held
Know Your Limits. For start- metal detector can locate items
ers, keep the cutting capacity of lurking below the surface.
your saw in mind as you look Setup. It won't take much
HARDWOOD RUNNER
SLIDES IN MITER for wood. It doesn't do any good work to prepare your band saw
GAUGE SLOT to pick up a log or branch if you to turn logs into lumber. But I
OF SAW TABLE
can't cut it with your band saw. do want to mention something
ATTACH RUNNER WITH SCREWS For example, most 14"band saws about the blade. Normally, I rec-
SO EDGE OF BASE IS EVEN
WITH THE SAW BLADE can cut pieces up to 6" thick. ommend using a high-quality
ShopN otes.com 27
Our Shop
Shop
Short Cuts
Cutting Drawers from a Box
• The four drawers on the tool
shelf (page 14) can be made indi-
Starting with an oversized
blank, I milled the stock to thick-
you can cut the sides to length,
complete the joinery, and then
vidually, but you can use a differ- ness then ripped and jointed both assemble the boxes with the bot-
ent technique. It involves build- edges. The stock should be wide toms, as in Figure 1.
ing an extra-tall enclosed box enough for both drawer sides After the glue is dry, cut the
and then cutting it in two to form plus a little extra for waste. box at the table saw to separate
a pair of drawers. Since there's Next, you can cut the grooves the two drawers. Finally, trim
only one glueup for each pair of to hold what will become the each drawer to final height to fit
drawers, it goes pretty quick. drawer bottoms. At this point, its opening in the tool shelf.
FIGURE
NOTE: CUT BOX INTO TWO
DRAWERS THEN TRIM TO
FINAL HEIGHT TO FIT
DRAWER OPENING
FRONT VIEW
BOTTOM
BOTTOM
DRAWER
Aluminum Brackets
Making the three styles of brackets for the cutting
rack on page 30 is easy to do. After cutting them
to length, the next step is to layout the end of the
slot and drill through. Be sure to use a fence to
keep the piece from spinning as you drill.
Now you can reposition the fence to
drill and countersink the four
mounting holes.
Then remove the ! Lay Out & Drill. Use a ! Countersink. Countersink the
waste in the slot centerpunch to mark the holes, holes, then cut out the waste in the
with a hack saw. then drill through. slot with a hack saw.
GUIDE BASE
NOTE: TRIM EDGES (14" Rgh. x 49" - V4" Hdl>d.)
OF GUIDE BASE
WITH ROUTER AND
SAW BEFORE
ADDING CLEAT
ShopN otes.com 29
\ low-profil
\
Cuttin
Rack
PLATE PREVENTS
ARM FROM RAILS MADE FROM
SLIPPING OUT 2x4 CONSTRUCTION
LUMBER
SIDES
MADE FROM
lx6 STOCK
GUIDE CAN
BE USED WITH
CIRCULAR SAW
OR ROUTER
RAIL BRACKETS
J
SPACED TO PROVIDE
FLEXIBILITY IN RAIL
PLACEMENT
BRACKETS ~ CLEATS ON
ARE EASY TO ~OWERRAIL
MAKE FROM '.Ie" SUPPORT
ALUMINUM WORKPIECE
~)
~ •
REAR NOTCH
HOLDSARM~
!
IN THE OPEN FRONT NOTCH
POSITION HOLDS ARM IN THE
STORED POSITION
ShopN otes.com 31
NOTE: ENDS OF SLOTS ARE REMOVE WASTE
DRILLED THEN WASTE AFTER CUTTING
REMOVED AT BAND SAW SLOTS AT BAND
constructing the SAW
Racl<
To make the rack assemblies, I
used construction-grade lum-
ber: 2x6s for the arms, lx6s for
the sides, and 2x4s for the rails. a.
The drawings tell you most of
what you need to know, but I'll
RIP NOTCH AT
point out a few highlights along TABLE SAW AND
FINISH CUT WITH .o4t
the way. You'll start by building HAND SAW-----'/ .
a pair of supports.
Pivoting Arm. Each support
consists of a pair of sides with a
pivoting arm in between. Making
the arms is the first task.
In Figure I, you can see how
you'll need to shape the arm.
I started by cutting the 2x6 to
length. Then I ripped the long
notch at the table saw and fin-
ARM
ished it with a hand saw. ARM
ShopN otes.com 33
shop-made • Accurate, yet easy-to-use is the name of
the game when it comes to the router
table. For me, that means adding a router
Router Lift
lift for fast, reliable bit-height control. But
commercial lifts can be costly and may
not work with every table.
The solution is the one you see above.
This full-featured lift provides all the
benefits of a commerical version, without
Maximize the performance of the cost. And its straightforward design
makes it simple to build.
your router table with this Basic materials and off-the-shelf hard-
ware are all you need to upgrade your
must-have, precision upgrade. router table in just one weekend.
CARRIAGE BLOCK
IS COUSTOM FIT
TO HOLD ROUTER
FIRMLY IN PLACE
SETSCREWS
ADJUST FIT OF
GUIDE TRACKS
CARRIAGE
BOLTS AND
KNOBS TIGHTEN
CARRIAGE BLOCK
TO LOCK ROUTER
FIRMLY IN PLACE
ShopN otes.com 35
POST
start with the FIGURE
(1\12" X 3~" - 11W')
A
Posts
The lift functions with your SEE PAGE 29
FOR MaREaN
router clamped in a carriage TAPPING
HOLES
block. This block then trav-
els between two posts that are
attached to a baseplate. A lift
screw secured at the baseplate B
adjusts the bit height.
I used the posts to position
the carriage block on the lift, so
I'll start you out there. Making
the parts isn't difficult, but I'll
share a few construction tips to
guarantee success.
the inside face of each post to against the guide tracks that fit
hold a guide track. A dado blade inside the centered grooves in the
is your best option for this. Once posts. To allow room for adjust-
you've cut the groove, the posts ment, I cut the tracks l,ig" shorter -.
can be cut to final length. The than the posts. TOP VIEW
outside edges of each post can be After ripping them to width,
cleaned up with a roundover bit sand the edges of each track so Then apply a light coat of paraffin
at the router table. they fit snugly within the grooves wax to each groove. Now you
Set screws are used to adjust while still allowing for move- can adjust the set screws so that
the fit of the router in the lift. ment. The inside face of the track the tracks sit flush with the posts
These screws fit inside tapped has a centered V-groove that holds (Figure I, Top View). This will
holes drilled through the posts. the runner. Figures 2 & 2a below help later during assembly.
For more information on how to show you how to cut this groove.
make these holes, refer to Shop To ensure that the router trav- BASEPLATE & LIFT SCREW
Short Cuts on page 29. els smoothly along the length As I mentioned earlier, the posts
Guide Tracks. You can see in of the lift, sand the V-grooves are attached to a baseplate that
Figure 1 that the set screws bear smooth with 320-grit sandpaper. also secures the lift screw. The
baseplate is just a piece of %"
, plywood cut to shape. For added
a. stability, I used Baltic birch .
. PUSH END You'll notice that the baseplate
BLOCK " VIEW
is not a simple rectangle, Instead,
it has two angled cuts on one edge
NOTE:
SAW BLADE that meet at the centerline of the
SHOULD TILT
I'N"
AWAY FROM base's length. This helps to maxi-
mize the size of the router the lift
can hold, while keeping the lift
NOTE: TILT screw centered between the posts,
BLADE 45·
In order to do this, the lift
needs to be mounted at an angle
BRONZE BUSHING
ll 11
c.
BUSHING
/ /
- -"-
THREADED
~D
" .• Trace & File. Trace the outline of a ~" nut on the end of the
threaded rod. Then file straight down to create the hex head.
Clamp the rod in a vise with wood or leather jaws for a secure hold.
ShopN otes.com 37
CLAMPING BLOCK NOTE: BLANK FOR MAIN
\4"-16X2" (2W' x 7") BLOCK AND CLAMPING
COUPLING F BLOCK CONSTRUCTED
NUT FROM THREE LAYERS OF
%" PLYWOOD
a.
TOP VIEW b.
adding the The carriage assembly consists layers of %" Baltic birch plywood.
of a main block and a clamping This thick blank will ensure a
/ *./-----,
FENCE
Then apply a light coat of paraffin
./ CONNECT POINTS -,
wax so they'll slide smoothly in
/ TO FIND CENTER the guide bars. Finally, bevel the
",,!
.:;..~ "'-
I b~ end of each runner at the band
, ~
saw and glue the runners into the
ShopN otes.com 39
>ii,.',-t/~~:~J~t~~-,
.
··~·~··~~>,:~:.i~,·.::;:~_.r··::~Gei·perfecf'·
",..erY
~c-:'~';:.~~·~· whe ..:".~,:'comBine a
;'.~.·~r>·~>~~
/ ." "e hano too' work with' the
-,-.accuracYGt)'QUf/. . <' '-".-
• I'admire the skill it takes to make cutting the mating pin piece. Let ~ There's one other Piec~
hand-cut dovetail i9.int5.'"The me explain the process. router setup. To rou;,Jhe"ends of
ability to create any' size dovetail Choose Your Bit. The first step the tail pieces, I -used a backer
and space them for a unique look is to choose the dovetail bit for board with a tall fence to support
is one of the main attractions. your router. The size and angle of the workpiece. This fence rides
But there's a way to get a the bit determines the final shape against the router fence.
hand-cut look in less time. To of the dovetails. For the dovetails Make a Gauge. Now for the
get strong, gap-free joints, I let shown here, I used a %"-dia., 14° creative part. To determine the
my router do half the work. A bit (margin photo at left). final look for the dovetails, I
router will cut consistent dove- Setup. With the bit mounted experiment using a piece of hard-
tails with crisp, clean edges every in your router table, set the depth board cut to the same width as
time. The dovetails then become using one of the pin pieces, as the workpieces. It's easy to rout
, Bit Choice. the template for laying out and shown in the lower left photo. the blank at the router table.
You can use any
dovetail bit for
creating great-
looking joinery
A Setting the Depth. Use one of the pin pieces A Two for One. Making a simple gauge from
as a gauge to set the height of the dovetail bit for hardboard helps in setting your marking gauge
routing clean, crisp dovetails. and makes a handy layout gauge for the tails.
ShopN otes.com 41
These three simple, traditional finishes combine
great looks with easy application .
• The warm, "in-the-wood" look
and silky feel of a timeless oil fin-
aren't perfect. Their main draw-
back is durability. An oil finish
In a nutshell, here's how to
apply an oil finish. For the first
ish makes it an attractive option doesn't form a film, so it doesn't coat, flood the surface with oil
for many woodworkers. A sim- stand up well on heavily used and let it soak in well. After 20-30
ple application process that's surfaces like a dining table. minutes, wipe off any excess.
nearly impossible to mess up Application. An oil finish may For the following coats, I rub in
clinches the deal. also take longer to apply than a thin layer of oil and then wipe
If all this sounds ideal to you, some other types. Oils, by nature, off the excess. When it's com-
take a look at these three types dry slowly, so you can usually pletely dry (about a day or two),
of pure oil finishes. Then you'll apply only one coat per day. (In the project is ready.
learn how to take advantage of cool, damp conditions, you may Finally, a safety note: Make
their unique benefits. need to wait two days.) I recom- sure to spread out oily rags and
Precautions. Now, don't get mend four to five coats for the allow them to dry fully to prevent
spontaneous combustion. 4.
-
me wrong. Classic oil finishes best look and greatest protection.
Of all the pure oil finishes, walnut oil is the least com- PROS:
mon. But I include it here because it's a great "natu-
• No chemical additives
ral" finish that doesn't have any chemicals added to
• Great for toys, food bowls,
the oil. Some people like it for kitchen items and toys.
and eating utensils
~ There are two types of walnut oil finish available.
I 1'lJ-.l1stJ€5_1 One is simply pure walnut oil that you find at the
• Lightest color
ShopN otes.com 43
..Shop
one cool
Tool
Cabinet
Upgrade
A rolling tool cabinet can
be so much more than a
place to stash tools.
• Rolling tools cabinets are usually these changes, this cabinet has
thought of as mechanics' tool- become kind of a "secondary
boxes. They're home to socket workbench" in the shop when
sets and wrenches, and they work spills over from my main
seem to belong in a garage rather workbench. Here's a quick look
than a woodworking shop. at all of the upgrades. A Before & After. A few easy
With a few simple upgrades, upgrades turned this forgotten
though, a rolling tool cabinet can TOP IT OFf cabinet into a handy workbench.
be a much more useful fixture 1£you have a rolling cabinet like
in your shop. In fact, thanks to the one shown in the inset photo piece in place. (Of course, you can
above, you may have found that also glue up your own panels for
the top collects all kinds of cast- the top if desired.)
«::>; off tools. So why not add a real Attach the Top. Attaching this
I BACKSTOP
(1" x 7" x 33 '4")
worksurface to the cabinet and top to the cabinet requires a pair
make it a more useful work area? of cleats. Cut the cleats to size,
Pre-Glued Panel. At a local and lay them in place in the open-
home center, I purchased a 1"- ing on the top of the cabinet. Then
thick glued-up panel that was add double-sided tape to the top
made from pine boards. The of each cleat, and carefully posi-
panel was a little larger than tion the top (drawing at left).
what I needed to make the top Next, remove the top panel,
of this cabinet, so I crosscut it to position it upside down, and
length on the table saw. drive screws through the cleats
Then you can rip it to width and into the underside of the top.
and use the waste portion to Now place the whole assembly
make a backstop for the cabinet. back onto the cabinet, pre-drill
Just glue and clamp the backstop holes in the steel lip for screws,
ShopN otes.com 45
qtJiCR easy
•
Dust Col ectlon
When it comes to dust-making clouds of fine dust. Besides being These handy tips can quickly
power tools, my table saw is a nuisance, dust poses a health improve the dust-collection capa-
probably the biggest culprit. risk. And it attracts moisture bilities of your table saw without
Depending on the type of cut, wherever it settles, which can spending a lot of money.
the saw will produce everything cause rust to form.
from a pile of coarse shavings to To make matters worse, the SEAL IT OFF
large openings and gaps found Before you can collect the dust
in table saws make corralling and chips, you need to keep them
the dust and chips a challenge. from escaping through every
crack and crevice in your table
saw. In addition, closing off the
openings can improve the effi-
ciency of your dust collector.
Close the Back Door. The
best places to start sealing are the
large openings. For a contractor-
style table saw, that means the
big opening in the back of the
cabinet. Since the motor, belt,
and blade guard extend from the
back, closing it off isn't easy.
• Seal the Slot. Stick a sheet of adhesive foam • Fill the Gap. Cut foam pipe My solution is shown in the
to the inside of the saw cabinet. A slit allows the insulation to close the gap main photo above. I cut a ~" ply-
blade to tilt to any angle. between the table and cabinet. wood panel to size. At the band
no collector?
Try a Bag
It can be tough to fit a stand-alone
dust collector in small shops. But
that doesn't mean you need to
settle for coating your shop with
a layer of dust every time you use
your table saw.
After taking the steps I men-
tioned in the article, you can add
the canvas dust bag shown here.
Now the dust created by the saw .•. Snap On, Snap Off. The
.•. Blade Cover. A reducer fitting installed in the top simply falls into the bag. When collector bag attaches to the saw
of the blade guard lets you attach the hose from it's full, you can remove it and with metal snaps you screw to
your shop vacuum. A wood spacer seals the front. dump the sawdust in the trash. the table saw stand.
ShopN otes.com 47
Find out what's new and what you need to know
about these handy shop adhesives .
• Along with the various types of
wood glue stored on the shelf in
out and talk about choosing and
using spray adhesives in general.
made for it. From wood to paper
to cloth and foam, it's not hard
my shop, I usually have a can or Convenience. Spray adhe- to ensure a good bond with the
two of spray adhesive. Nothing sives are pretty versatile. For proper adhesive.
beats its speed and ease for fas- spreading a thin film of adhesive Light or Heavy Duty. You also
tening paper templates, gluing over a wide area, nothing beats have plenty of choices when it
up layers of plywood, and a host an aerosol can. It's quick and comes to the strength of the adhe-
of other useful shop tasks. easy to apply an even film over sive. Some are designed for tem-
I found out that 3M is making the materials to be bonded. porary bonding, like attaching a
low-VOC (volatile organic com- Range of Materials. That pattern (main photo). Others are
pounds) versions of some of their brings me to my next point: for more permanent applications.
classic spray adhesives. I thought No matter what you're bond- Part of the strength of a spray
it would be a good time try them ing, there's likely a formulation adhesive comes from the manner
in which it's applied. It pays to Plastic Laminate. Another vary the width of the spray from
read the instructions on the can. common use is applying plastic a narrow to a wide fan.
With some types of adhesives, a laminate to a substrate like ply- There's another tip I'd like
temporary bond can be formed wood (upper right photo). There to pass along. It's best to wipe
by spraying only one surface are adhesives designed specifi- the nozzle clean after every use.
to be bonded. For permanent cally for this application, but I've Bits of adhesive can quickly dry
bonds, you need to apply a film also had good success with gen- on the nozzle or, worse yet, par-
to both surfaces, let it tack up eral-purpose spray adhesives. tially plug it, resulting in a mess
and dry a bit, then bring' them Foams & Cloth. For bonding the next time you spray. And for
together. But be careful - once foams and cloth material, you those times when you need to
the items touch, there's usually need an adhesive that won't soak clean up overspray or mistakes,
no chance of repositioning them. through. In the photo below, I'm see the box below.
Uses. The photos on this page lining a drawer with felt applied Greener Products. As I men-
show you a few of the uses for to a cardboard backing. tioned up front, low-VOC ver-
spray adhesive in the shop. At Special Nozzle. While I'm sions of spray adhesives from
the upper left, you can see how I talking about applying spray 3M are better for the environ-
laminated two pieces of plywood adhesives, there's something else ment. The great part is they offer
to create a thick top for a router I want to point out. Some 3M the same strength benefits as the
table. I sprayed a thin coat of adhesives have a special nozzle, older formulations with a lon-
adhesive on each piece, let it dry, as you can see in the lower pho- ger tack time. You'll be able to
then pressed the plywood pieces tos on the opposite page. You can find them at local distributors by
together. Using a mallet with a rotate the tip to adjust the fan- going online to 3m. com/adhesives
hardwood block helps ensure a shaped spray pattern from hori- and clicking on the link that says,
good bond between the parts. zontal to vertical. You can also "Where to Buy." 4 A,.j
j
adhesive 1
,...'--:-
iI' ••..
I ,
Remover , j
!
There's no doubt that spray adhesives
can be messy. After all, it's like spraying
sticky rubber. And forget about trying to
wipe it off. Unless you invest in a can of adhesive
remover, as shown above, it's there to stay.
The adhesive remover works by softening the
adhesive, so you can scrape or wipe it off with a
cloth. Simply spray it on, give it a few minutes to
work its magic, then wipe it clean. For heavy adhe-
~ sive films, you may need a second application.
~ Designed for Cloth. This specially formulated spray And there's something else I'd like to mention:
adhesive won't soak through cloth. Simply spray each With all of the spray products mentioned here, you
surface and let it dry before bonding. should make sure to have plenty of ventilation.
ShopN otes.com 49
&!
. _.CIuestions from
Our Readers
eliminate
Vise
Racking
The vise on my workbench closes unevenly. Now it
doesn't have a secure grip and the workpiece slips.
Is there anything I can do to fix it?
Joe Smith things you can do to resolve the you to get a secure grip on a
Austin, Texas problem and then prevent it workpiece without having to
The Mechanism. First, check bear down on the vise handle. So
• The problem you describe is to see if the mounting screws are as you fine-tune the shape of the
called racking. It may be the loose. If they are, realign the vise jaw, it should taper slightly from
result of improper alignment of and tighten the screws securely. top to bottom.
the vise or by repeatedly clamp- If your vise has a metal rear Prevention. Once you have the
ing workpieces on the same side jaw, you can loosen the mounting problem fixed, there are a few
of the vise. Over time, this can screws and slip shims behind it simple things you can do to pre-
distort the position of the jaw so Your goal is to make sure the vise vent it from happening again.
it's no longer square to the front holds the workpiece evenly across You shouldn't need to crank
of the bench. There are some the front of the bench. Retighten down on a vise to hold some-
the screws and you're done. thing securely. To improve the
Reshape the Jaw. A second, vise's grip, you can line the jaws
and possibly simpler, option is to with leather. The cushioned sur-
adjust the shape of the front, slid- face gives a little and helps create
ing jaw on the vise so the jaws are a tight hold without a lot of pres-
parallel again. You can see how sure. As a side benefit, leather is
to do this in the left photo. less likely to mar a workpiece.
Start by using a compass to Another thing to do is make
scribe the front jaw so you know sure the clamping pressure is
\ how much material to remove. balanced across the whole width
\ Scr;b~ Fit. . Use this layout line as a guide to of the vise. You can see what I
\ Set a cdQ?pass remove the waste from the jaw. mean in the upper photo. I made
\ ,
\to match the You can do this with a planer, belt a spacer block to keep the jaws
'widest
\
parl\of, the sander, or even a hand plane. from distorting. The block has
f1?p. Mark thf? taper There's something to keep in steps cut in it that match up with
on, the vise jaW to use mind, though. You don't want common workpiece thicknesses.
as 'a guide for ~eshaping the vise faces to close completely These simple tricks will give
theJpw \ all at once. The mechanism of your vise a solid grip. And you
\ \
.;"' \
'.
most vises is made to close along
the top edge first This allows
can keep your bench vise work-
ing smoothly and reliably. d..
projects. And they ship nation- TOOL SHELF (p.14) • Woodcraft leevalley.com
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ShopN otes.com 51
ew for the infilf plane,
The unique cap scr machine screw
fa common t
is d
made rom F,'
a Piece of steel, In d the step-by-e ep
an 23
instructions on page ,