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PLUS WARM CHOCOLATE MOUSSE • SIBA’S ROCKY ROAD • SA’S FINEST BONBONS

Asian butternut-and-
chicken soup
(page 86)

Caldo verde
(page 89)

Sexy
Roast tomato soup
veg!
with Caprese toast
(page 86) Parmesan-
baked onions
Sweet potato
soufflé pie
& phwoaar!

Stress free

74
Sundays
FIVE
R ’ S DAY, P.
Slow-cooked GENIUS
pork shoulder FREEZER
HACKS
Beef shortribs ATH E
Duck ragù
IS F
TH
D
EE
N

June 2019
U

YO
R41.50 incl. VAT
Other countries
E S R36.08 excl. VAT
C IP taste.co.za
R E @WWTaste
LY
TH E O N

6 HOT NEW COMBOS


JUNE 2019

CONTENTS
O FEATURES O OPERATION
COUVERTURE
EARTH ADDICT It stands to reason that
Part 1 of our winter the head chef of the best
vegetable feast (don’t restaurant in South Africa
miss part 2 in the July also makes the country’s
issue) stars cheesy baked best chocolates … Meet
onions with beans, grilled Gregory Czarnecki of The
brinjals, and a sweet Restaurant at Waterkloof
potato soufflé pie that’ll and his crazy-beautiful
change your life. 16 bonbons. 90

THE SLOW BURN SOME LIKE IT HOT


Let your oven do all the Ask Phillippa Cheifitz to
hard work for you when make her five ultimate
you give the likes of pork comfort puddings and
shoulder, duck legs and she’s going to add a tot of
shortrib – even smoky something, obvs! Try her
beans and barley – the warm chocolate mousse
low-and-slow treatment with brandy for Father’s
this winter. 66 Day. 96

WE ARE FAMILY A TALE OF


TV celebrity Siba THREE CITIES
Mtongana has Father’s Richard Holmes says an
Day 2019 covered with Asian train trip is your
her easy family menu answer to a budget-
featuring korma chicken friendly foodie holiday.
cottage pie, mini malva Hop on board to discover
puds and rocky road the streetfood secrets of
made with, wait for it, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur
Chuckles! 74 and Singapore. 104

SOUPER FOOD
Substantial soups with a
lot of something on the
side are your answer to
this month’s weeknight
suppers. Think Mexican
black bean with chipotle
charred corn, or Asian
butternut chicken with
prawn toast. 82

TASTE JUNE 2019 3


O TABLE TALK O O COLUMNS O
8 Our winning letter
31 Trend: Tin-to-table dining receives a R500 Woolies 54 TASTES THAT BIND
36 Store secrets: the TASTE gift card, plus a flask from Sam Woulidge makes three-
team’s favourite winter soups Klean Kanteen worth R750 cheese toasties in memory
10 What’s happening online? of her beloved father, Ron.
38 Anatomy of a dish:
the ricotta gnudi from Find Father’s Day menu inspo 56 TASTES LIKE MORE
Brik Café, Johannesburg and win fantastic prizes at Will Ingrid Jones of Tussen
taste.co.za. Ons ever get her mom's
40 My favourite table:
12 Subscribe and you could famous jam roly-poly
comedian Riaad Moosa
win a Roodeberg wines pudding right? She plans
42 3 ways with: canned to give it her best shot
hamper worth R2 000
sweetcorn on national television.
128 Final tidbit: Acclaimed
44 Books: Durban Curry
SA author Zakes Mda’s “seven
Up2Date by Clinton Friedman
colours” veggie lasagne.
and Erica Platter
48 Behind Bars: Publik
in Johannesburg
page 81,
50 Wine know-how:
7 hot winter wines 90, 100
52 The TASTE Case: six

COVER PHOTOGRAPH MYBURGH DU PLESSIS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANTS CLAIRE VAN ROOYEN AND JASON REYNOLDS
wines for spoiling your dad
60 Scene Stealer:
Swartland shuffle

O PREP TALK O

113 Tips and techniques page 66


for the master cook: beans page 74
117 What’s for dinner? Five
winning meals to whip up page 82
from your next freezer forage

O REGULARS O

6 Editor’s letter

4 TASTE JUNE 2019


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E D I TO R 'S LET TER

The comfort zone


NEVER HAS AN ISSUE filled with to try them with sliced tomato and
such comforting food been produced onion salt, as our food director, Abi,
in the midst of so much discomfort. does for her ultimate braaibroodjies
Personal challenges have a way (watch her make these on TASTETube).
of compelling you take stock or, in He has resisted, so far.
my case, to make stock. The smell One of the discomforts surrounding
of chicken broth simmering quietly this issue was that Abi was very ill for
on the stove never fails to lift my spirits. most of it. For someone defined by her
I have made a lot of chicken stock this love of food and pursuit of perfection,
month. Just the simple act of recycling not to mention her indefatigable sense
Sunday’s roast chicken carcass, adding of humour, two weeks in a hospital bed
vegetables and bay leaves from the was not restful, it was a prison sentence.
garden and letting it all bubble away We felt the same way. Not having Abi
for hours, warming the house with in the office or the kitchen was like
its magical aroma makes me feel calm. trying to cook without being able to
This month, I’ve used my own taste or smell the food. You get on with
chicken stock in soup made with beef it, but the joy is missing. Having her
chuck and borlotti beans; vegetables back, and healthy again, is a reminder
and barley; shredded chicken and leeks. of how inseparable she is from TASTE
The Salad Dodger is a big fan of soup and how precious her creative and every issue?!” she invented the steak-and-
night as it means he can break out his personal contributions are to me. onion rösti pie (genius!) and the almond-
giant griddle-toaster thing and make In the meantime, we soldiered on. croissant-Tin Roof baked pudding in her
grilled cheese sandwiches for dunking. There was more heartbreak – longtime freezer hacks story, p 117. It is a gift to
His latest involves sourdough bread TASTE contributor Sam Woulidge lost every working mom who has ever wrung
and a combo of mature Cheddar and her beloved father this month, but found her hands over the week’s second ready-
mozzarella. I’m trying to convince him solace in making him a posthumous made lasagne (no judgment.)

“Not having Abi in the TASTE kitchen was


like trying to cook without being able to
taste or smell the food”

cheese toastie in one of the most We also had Brita du Plessis making
poignant tributes I have ever read, p 54. the kind of soups that will keep book
I wept a little, thinking of my own clubs in business all winter, Phillippa
father – whose love of a warm winter Cheifitz on dessert duty, and Siba
pudding is unmatched – and who has assembling her best working-mom’s
battled with his own health in recent Father’s Day menu. They are all recipes
years. I feel so grateful to be able to that will warm your heart and your
make him yet another hot pudding home, and perhaps remind you of the
this Father’s Day. people who make discomfort that much
Luckily, to see us through the dark easier to bear. Cherish them.
days, we had our ever-sunny Hannah,
turning winter vegetables into soufflés,
baking onions with cheese, slow-roasting
pork shoulder and generally taking
comfort food to another level, p 66.
And even as she wailed “How does Follow m
me on Instagram
Abi will be back at full strength in the next issue.
Abi come up with all these new things @
@KateWWilsonZA

6 TASTE JUNE 2019


First. Finest. Favourite.
THE TEAM SAYS:
SUBSCRIPTIONS & DISTRIBUTION
Subscriptions hotline: 087 405 2005

PUBLISHING TEAM
What’s the one dish that always Group Account Director: Kelly Cloete

reminds you of your father? Production Manager: Shirley Quinlan

EXECUTIVE TEAM
Managing Director: Aileen Lamb
EDITORINCHIEF Kate Wilson Commercial Director: Maria Tiganis
kate.wilson@newmedia.co.za “Woolies’ malva Brand Strategy Director: Andrew Nunneley
“My dad is a master FOOD DIRECTOR Abigail Donnelly pudding or bread- Executive: Bridget McCarney
braaier. He cooks FOOD EDITOR Hannah Lewry and-butter pudding – Chief Financial Officer: Venette Malone
meat really well, my dad was a sucker Head of HR: Camillah West
GROUP MANAGING EDITOR Liesl Nicholson
and I was always for desserts.” CEO Media24: Ishmet Davidson
his assistant (i.e. liesl.nicholson@newmedia.co.za
SENIOR CONTENT EDITOR Michelle Coburn – Kelly Cloete Repro by: New Media
running to fetch Printed by: Novus Print Solutions
tongs or whatever michelle.coburn@newmedia.co.za
else he needed from SENIOR COPY EDITOR Lynda Ingham-Brown
the kitchen!). We’d ASSOCIATE EDITOR Katharine Pope “Pumpkin fritters!
always eat outside COMMERCIAL PROJECTS EDITOR Jeanne Calitz My mom taught me
and sometimes he’d MULTIMEDIA FOOD STYLIST Jacqueline Burgess
how to make them,
let me have a mini and now my dad
ONLINE EDITOR Amy Ebedes
beer shandy in loves mine more
HEAD OF CREATIVE Mark Serra
a sherry glass!” than my mom’s.” Published on behalf of Woolworths
ART DIRECTOR Alistair Fester – Yvette Samaai
– Lynda Ingham- by New Media Pty Ltd,
JUNIOR DESIGNER Rugshaana Abrahams
Brown New Media House,
WINE CONSULTANT Allan Mullins
19 Bree Street, Cape Town, 8001.
CONSULTING DIETICIAN Mariza van Zyl PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town, 8051.
“I always think of
my dad when I eat Telephone: +27 (021) 417-1111
WOOLWORTHS EDITORIAL BOARD tapas, because of info@newmedia.co.za
Head of Brand Communications: Elizka Ferreira newmedia.co.za
“Tripe! He always one glorious holiday
cooked it outside, Editorial Lead: Raphaella Frame-Tolmie we had together
because it made the Brand Manager Foods: Hieba Solomon in Spain. I still
whole house smell. remember drinking
And all of the heads ADVERTISING & MARKETING sangria, and eating
– skaapkop, viskop, Head of Advertising and Sales: Jeanine Boshoff jamón, olives and
varkkop. He comes +27 21 417 1104 jeanine.boshoff@newmedia.co.za ham croquettes, and
from a family of nine Key Account Manager: Yvette Samaai watching the sun set
boys, so they couldn’t +27 21 417 1156 yvette.samaai@newmedia.co.za
over the plains below
be squeamish the little hill
Key Account Manager: Tharien Nel 29 170
about food!” town of Ronda.” July–Sept 2018
+27 21 417 5168 tharien.nel@newmedia.co.za
– Alistair Fester – Katharine Pope
Advertising Co-ordinator: Julian Petersen +27 021 417 1220

FEEDBACK Email taste@newmedia.co.za @WWTaste


@ facebook.com/wwTASTE.

WINNING LETTER
I had to sit down and restrain myself when #icookedwwtaste
I saw the hot cross bun ice cream sandwich in Cook a recipe
your April 2019 issue. I had to be patient until from a recent
Easter. I couldn’t wait to try it when my family TASTE magazine and
came over. We are pretty picky about our hot tell us how it went!
cross buns (only Woolies’ will do) and ice cream Email us with
(only Tin Roof will do). We have to let you in on a progress report
our own crazy indulgence. I cannot remember at taste@newmedia co.za
how this started or who started us on it but it or post a photo
involves Woolies’ traditional hot cross buns and on Instagram with
those magical marshmallow Easter eggs in the the hashtag
light green box. Cut open the hot cross bun. #icookedwwtaste.
Place an unwrapped marshmallow egg in the Happy cooking!
bun, close and microwave for 5–10 seconds.
Voilà! Gooey, chocolatey goodness with the
cinnamon raisin flavour of the hot cross bun. * Woolworths products featured are subject
to availability and may not be available at
Magical. You’re welcome. – Mandy Rambharous THE PRIZE all stores. All prices include VAT and were
Whether you
you’re
re sipping coffee on a mountain top, top or correct at the time of going to press. Offers
THE WRITER OF THIS MONTH’S keeping those cocktails chilled, Klean Kanteen’s insulated available while stocks last. Not all products
and ingredients featured are available from
WINNING LETTER TAKES HOME TKPRO is the stylish solution. A plastic-free flask, it boasts Woolworths. While all precautions have been
a flask from Klean Kanteen worth R760, excellent thermal performance for both hot and cold taken to ensure the accuracy of information,
neither the publisher and editor, nor New
plus a R500 Woolworths gift card. drinks. Take your pick between silver and black. Media, can be held liable for any inaccuracies,
Thanks for the tip, Mandy! injuries or damages that may arise.

8 TASTE JUNE 2019


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taste.co.za
What's happening online? @WWTaste

HAVE YOUR SAY!


WE ASKED:
Should soup be smooth
or chunky?
YOU ANSWERED:
Smooth 30.5 % Chunky 30.5 % Both 39%

HEY, DADDY!
Head to our special occasions section, and click on Father’s Day
to find dozens of ways to spoil your dad on 16 June. From the best-
ever braaied steak and dad-friendly puds, to recipes for every kind

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS AND SADIQAH ASSUR-ISMAIL PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY AND HANNAH LEWRY
of papa, we’ve got the dish for you.

Siba Mtongana is back in the “It depends on the type of soup.


TASTETube kitchen, cooking up Vegetables should be chunky,
four genius ideas for Father’s Day. legumes should be smooth, rich
Brian is one lucky guy!
and thick.” – @petaflorus
FOOD ASSISTANTS JACQUELINE BURGESS AND CLEMENT PEDRO
“Smooth, rich tomato soup with
nice, thick white toasted bread
and a creamy mozzarella cheese.
Yummmmm.” – @agvp2203
“Smooth but then chunks of either
chicken or bacon or corn or broccoli.
But I love Woolies’ beef and lentil
NEVER MISS A VIDEO soups. I love when barley soup is a
Subscribe to our channel on bit chunkier. Yum. I am so ready for
YouTube: youtube.com/user/ soup season @woolworths_sa!”
TASTEMagazine – @kat_williamsjaftha

ASK QUESTIONS AND SHARE YOUR ADVICE AT TASTE.CO.ZA/COMMUNITY-QUESTIONS.

10 TASTE JUNE 2019


PORTUGUESE ISLAND

An uninhabited protected paradise with a wealth of breath taking


coral reefs and marine life, this quaint island is a wonder
of unspoiled beaches, and natural foliage. Quench your thirst
at our eco-friendly island bar, while the ship’s chef prepares
your island meal. Optional excursions include snorkelling,
sea kayaking or a trip to neighbouring Inhaca Island,
which offers lively bars, quaint restaurants and souvenir stands.
A walk around the circumference of the island, around 5km
in distance, is highly recommended.

msccruises.co.za
SUBS CR I BE R’ S OFFER

SUBSCRIBE & WIN


Subscribe to TASTE for just R31 an issue and you could win
one of three cases of Roodeberg Red d, plus a leather tote bag
and a leatherbound noteboo ok, worth R2 000

WIN!

Roodeberg’s rich heritage and colourful tapestry of wine


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celebrates its 70th anniversary after being launched at KWV
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conjures up fond memories of people, places and occasions,
and of sharing special life-changing moments with family
and friendds, often with rare vintages. Now you can taste
a piece off history, too. roodeberg.com

A
TO GE
WAY
ET YOUR ISSUE
Four asy ways to subscribe
Want to get the subscribers’ discount, but don’t 1. Call 087 405
5 2005
want to wait for the postman? TASTE subscribers
can now choose to collect their magazine from 2. SMS “Subs Tast” to 40573 (R1 per SMS)
Woolworths Food and selected stores in main
centres. You must be a Woolworths cardholder. 3. EMAIL subs@magsathome.co.za.
Simply email subs@magsathome.co.za or call
087 405 2005 to click and collect your issue. 4. For digital subscriptions, visit
Find out more at taste.co.za. magsathome.co.za, zinio.com or magzter.com

*Offer limited to SA; ends 23 June 2019. Please allow time for processing and delivery. Please call 021 045 1809 for international subscription rates.

12 TASTE JUNE 2019


Nights that come alive.

+27 21 431 5800 reservations@oneandonlycapetown.com


oneandonlycapetown.com
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WIN!
Ten lucky TASTE readers will win
24 bottles of Warwick First Lady
Sauvignon Blanc 2017, worth R2 100

Warwick Estate has a rich history dating back to 1771, when it was known as “De Goede Sukses”.
In 1964, Stan and Norma Ratcliffe bought the farm, planting mainly Bordeaux varieties. It now
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wine that pairs with almost anything, from steaming hot mussels to a meze platter of whipped feta
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THE PRIZE: Ten readers will each win 24 bottles of Warwick First Lady Sauvignon Blanc 2017, worth R2 100.
TO ENTER, visit taste.co.za. QUESTION: What was the former name of Warwick Wine Estate in 1771?
A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

DINNER AND A SHOW?


Pick a fuss-free supper, top up your glass and head over to SundanceTV, DStv Channel 108
for a premiere. Beats a TV dinner with Derek Watts any day, right? Try this for a viewing menu

LANE, 1974 iFEEL SENSITIVITY BLUEPRINT AWOL


Sunday, 2 June at 21:00 Sunday, 9 June TRAINING Sunday, 23 June Sunday, 29 June
The “must-see coming at 21:00 Sunday, 16 June at 21:00 at 21:00
of age film of the year”, The intimate story at 21:00 A teacher struggles to After visiting an army
according to HuffPost, of a disillusioned A woman with a find meaning after the recruiting office, a young
this is the true story of New York ad man, tragically low EQ is death of his best friend woman from a small
a 13-year-old girl trying questioning his sent on an attitude in a racially motivated town believes this could
to negotiate a normal existence in manner adjustment course and shooting in Chicago be her calling. Then she
life while living in of Don Draper, unexpectedly hits it off in this true-life story. falls for a married woman
a 70s commune with but with modern with her coach. Break A few bottles of red and things go off piste
a somewhat troubled technology. You out the Chuckles. should see you through. a bit. (Just finish the
mom. A second helping might need hard tack Try Woolies’house leftover steak, you
of malva pudding may for this one. Neat. cultivar Shiraz. know you want to.)
be required.

Movie night
requires serious
food: peri-peri
fillet steak with
an olive oil-fried
egg, perhaps?
Serve with
Woolies Allure
Chardonnay
Pinot Noir 2016.
W IN TE R VE GETA B L ES: PA RT 1

SWEET POTATO SOUFFLÉ


PIE WITH BEETROOT AND
WALNUT SAUCE

PHOTOGRAPHS SADIQAH ASSUR-ISMAIL


RECIPES AND PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY
FOOD ASSISTANTS CLAIRE VAN ROOYEN
AND JASON REYNOLDS

16 TASTE JUNE 2019


W I N T ER VEGE TA BL ES : PA RT 1

EAR
T H
For part one of
our winter veg
series, we’ve
grilled brinjals,
souffléd sweet
potatoes and
baked onions
with cheese...

ADD
I C T
TASTE JUNE 2019 17
W IN TE R VE GETA B L ES: PA RT 1
“This
gnocchi is
foolproof.
It’s the
ultimate
beginner’s
recipe”
– Hannah
Lewry

BAKED FENNEL AND LEEKS


WITH GNOCCHI

TASTE JUNE 2019 19


W IN TE R VE GETA B L ES: PA RT 1

CHARGRILLED ASIAN-STYLE BRINJALS


WITH NOODLES
R34 PER SERVING

20
WI N T ER VEGETA BL ES : PA RT 1

TASTE JUNE 2019 21


W IN TE R VE GETA B L ES: PA RT 1
WI N T ER VEGETA BL ES : PA RT 1

“Just like a cassoulet,


but without the sausage”

PARMESAN-BAKED ONIONS
WITH BEANS AND RUSTIC
CIABATTA CROUTONS
R38 PER SERVING
W IN TE R VE GETA B L ES: PA RT 1

“I grew
up eating
this mash.
It has all
my comfort
flavours
in one”

MILK-POACHED CARROT-AND-
TURNIP MASH WITH VINO
COTTO-ROASTED BUTTERNUT
R39 PER SERVING

24 TASTE JUNE 2019


W I N T ER VEGE TA BL ES : PA RT 1

SWEET POTATO SOUFFLÉ free-range egg yolks 4 reduce the heat to 180°C and bake for
PIE WITH BEETROOT AND free-range egg whites 6 a further 5–10 minutes, or until lightly
WALNUT SAUCE golden and set. 11 To make the walnut
“This recipe is inspired by a sweet potato pie For the walnut sauce: sauce, melt the butter in a small saucepan
combined with a double-baked soufflé. The butter 50 g and add the onion, garlic and thyme. Sweat
earthy beetroot and walnuts are a winning onion 1, finely chopped until the onion is translucent. Add the wine
combo, and it’s really delicious served with garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped and cook over a medium heat until
a lemony wild rocket salad on the side.” thyme 4 sprigs, leaves picked and chopped thickened; there should be almost no liquid
white wine 1 cup left. Blend half the walnuts and add to the
Serves 4 walnuts 100 g, roasted sauce. 12 Cook for 5 minutes, then add the
A LITTLE EFFORT cream 2 cups cream. Simmer to reduce to a thick, velvety
Preparation: 1 hour sea salt and freshly ground black consistency, 20–30 minutes, but do not
Cooking: 1 hour 10 minutes pepper, to taste allow the cream to boil. Season and serve
with the sweet potato soufflé, beetroot
For the beetroot: and reserved walnuts.
baby beetroot 200 g, washed MEAT-FREE
golden baby beetroot 200 g, washed “Such a great WINE: Woolworths Steenberg Rosé 2019
olive oil 4 T dinner-party recipe;
salt, to taste all the qualities of a BAKED FENNEL AND
soufflé, none of the LEEKS WITH GNOCCHI
For the sweet potato soufflé pie: pressure” “I am obsessed with the sticky sweetness
Woolworths Kara sweet potatoes of this fennel-and-leek combination –
1 kg, peeled and diced it’s addictive with my super-easy gnocchi.”
olive oil 2 T 1 To make the beetroot, preheat the oven
sea salt and freshly ground black to 180°C. Wrap the beetroot in foil in Serves 6
pepper, to taste 2 parcels, each drizzled with 2 T olive oil EASY
onion 1, roughly chopped and seasoned with salt. 2 Place on a baking Preparation: 45 minutes
garlic 1 clove, chopped tray and roast for 1 hour, or until tender Cooking: 3 hours
butter 100 g, plus extra for greasing and easy to peel. Once cooked, remove
thyme 2 sprigs from the oven and peel when slightly For the gnocchi:
bay leaf 1 cooled. 3 To make the soufflé, grease a Woolworths Nicola Mediterranean
black pepper, to taste round 23 cm ovenproof pan or dish with potatoes 1.5 kg, washed and dried
fresh nutmeg grated, to taste butter and dust with flour. 4 Toss the sweet coarse sea salt 250 g
milk 2 cups potatoes in the olive oil and seasoning, flour 110 g, plus extra for dusting
flour 50 g, plus extra for dusting then roast for 30 minutes, or until soft. baby spinach 150 g, blanched and
Woolworths vintage Cheddar 100 g, grated Mash using a ricer or sieve, then set aside. roughly chopped
5 Increase the oven’s temperature to 200°C. sea salt and freshly ground black
In a small saucepan, sweat the onion and pepper, to taste
garlic in half the butter with the thyme, bay
FARMING
leaf, black pepper and nutmeg until the For the leeks and fennel:
WITH THE
onions are translucent. 6 Add the milk and baby fennel 400 g, halved lengthways
FUTURE
bring to the boil. Remove from the heat fennel 2 bulbs, thinly sliced
IN MIND
and allow to infuse for 15 minutes. Strain baby leeks 600 g, halved lengthways
Did you know that Woolies works and set aside. 7 In a medium saucepan, and some thinly sliced
closely with farmers to pioneer melt the remaining butter, remove from thyme 1 t, plus extra for serving
an approach to growing fruit and the heat and add the flour, stirring until garlic 2 heads, halved horizontally
vegetables in harmony with nature? combined. Place over a low heat and (unpeeled)
And the work starts from the bottom gradually add the milk mixture, whisking olive oil 2 T
up. Sustainable farming begins with continually. 8 Once all the milk has been sea salt and freshly ground black
healthy soil, which retains water added, cook for 5 minutes. Add the cheese pepper, to taste
better so needs less irrigation. Healthy
and stir until melted. Fold in the mashed brown sugar 3 T
soil also needs fewer pesticides
sweet potato and allow to cool for
or synthetic fertilisers. It’s all part
of Woolies’ Farming for the Future 10 minutes, then beat in the egg yolks. butter 100 g, for frying
programme, so that South Africa’s 9 Whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks Parmesan, grated, for sprinkling
farms will be able to provide food form. Gently fold a third of the egg whites
for future generations. woolworths. into the mixture, then carefully fold in the 1 To make the gnocchi, preheat the oven
co.za/goodbusinessjourney rest. 10 Pour the soufflé mixture into the to 200°C. Lay the salt on a baking tray and
greased dish and bake for 15 minutes, then arrange the potatoes on top. Bake for

TASTE JUNE 2019 25


W IN TE R VE GETA B L ES: PA RT 1

Roll the logs into evenly sized cylinders and remaining tamari or soya, honey, fish sauce,
BACK TO YOUR ROOTS cut small pillows of gnocchi from each log. sesame oil, lime juice and zest, garlic and
Knobbly root veggies may not be the Add more flour if dough becomes sticky. ginger. 4 While the brinjals are still hot, split
most beautiful residents of the produce 5 Boil the gnocchi in salted water in with a knife and drizzle over the dressing.
aisle, but they know how to rule the batches until they start to rise to the Serve with the noodles, coriander, chilli
kitchen. Maximise their sweet, nutty, surface of the water. Remove from the and cashews.
earthy, peppery flavours in roasts, water using a slotted spoon and place into HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE
purées, gratins and soups a bowl of iced water. Once cold, drain the WINE: Woolworths Fairview Shiraz 2017
water and coat the gnocchi in olive oil. Set
BEETROOT Cook it low and slow to aside, evenly spaced, on a tray until ready
enhance its natural earthiness and
sweetness – add a little balsamic
to serve. 6 Divide the butter between two “Brinjals make a
or pomegranate molasses.
pans and melt over a medium heat until more-than-satisfying
foamy. Fry the gnocchi in the butter until meatless main”
golden and crispy, then sprinkle with
CARROTS Every vegetable’s best
thyme. Serve immediately with the leeks,
friend. Mix them with anything from
fennel and the butter from the pan,
fennel to butternut or turnips and
you’ll always have a hit on your hands. sprinkled with Parmesan. PARMESAN-BAKED ONIONS
Try carrots with a cumin-coriander- Cook’s note: Keep the potato skins WITH BEANS AND RUSTIC
paprika butter with chilli flakes, and deep fry them to make a bar snack. CIABATTA CROUTONS
served with labneh and torn pitas. Serve with your favourite dip. “This is an amazing combination of an
HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE oven-roasted French onion soup and a
CELERIAC Probably the least attractive WINE: Woolworths Cape Point vegetarian cassoulet. If you feel the need
veg with the most surprising flavour – Sauvignon Blanc 2018 to add something meaty, try pork sausages,
think hints of celery and aniseed. sliced kassler chops or even pan-fried chorizo
It can be a wonderfully creamy CHARGRILLED ASIAN-STYLE when serving. Or just add cream or cheese
addition to soups, but also holds BRINJALS WITH NOODLES and serve leftovers on toast.”
up well in roasts and stews. “You won’t even miss meat thanks to the rich,
bold flavours of this dish. Blistering the brinjals Serves 6
PARSNIPS The season is short, so grab really brings out their flavour.” EASY
these precious root veggies while you GREAT VALUE
can. Turn them into chips or candy Serves 6 Preparation: 20 minutes
them with maple syrup.
EASY Cooking: 1 hour 15 minutes
GREAT VALUE
TURNIPS Anything a potato can do, Preparation: 20 minutes For the onions:
a turnip can do, too. Make the most
Cooking: 40 minutes brown onions 10, halved (unpeeled)
of its sweet, nutty flavour by layering
small red onions 500 g, halved (unpeeled)
it with loads of garlic and double
cream and baking in the oven. large brinjals 2 shallots 250 g, halved (unpeeled)
Or pickle them for a fantastic extra baby brinjals 6–8 olive oil 2 T
with schwarma-style wraps. olive oil, for drizzling sea salt and freshly ground black
tamari or soya sauce 6 T pepper, to taste
honey 2 T Woolworths vegetable liquid
2 hours until completely cooked through. fish sauce 1 T concentrate stock 2 x 340 ml cartons
2 While the potatoes are baking, divide the sesame oil 1 t garlic 6 cloves, crushed
fennel, leeks, thyme and garlic between limes 2, zested and juiced cannellini beans 1 x 400 g can, drained
two baking trays. Drizzle with olive oil, garlic 1 clove, crushed haricot beans 1 x 400 g can, drained
season and sprinkle over the sugar. Roast ginger 1 x 5 cm piece, peeled and grated butter beans 1 x 400 g can, drained
at 180°C for 30–40 minutes, turning the egg noodles, cooked, for serving butter 100 g, cubed
vegetables occasionally to ensure even coriander 2 t chopped, for serving
cooking. 3 Once the potatoes are cooked, chilli, sliced, for serving For the ciabatta croutons:
cut them in half and scoop out all the flesh roasted cashews, chopped, for sprinkling butter 1 T
while still warm. Mash using a potato ricer olive oil 1 T
or push through a large-holed sieve to 1 Cook the brinjals over an open flame ciabatta ¼ loaf, torn into chunks
keep the mash dry and the gnocchi light. on a gas stove or braai until blistered and sea salt and freshly ground black
Add the flour, spinach and seasoning and starting to split. Place on a baking tray and pepper, to taste
mix to form a dough. Take care not to set aside to cool, then brush off any ash.
overwork the gnocchi as it will become 2 Preheat the oven to 200°C. Drizzle the Parmesan, grated, for serving
stodgy. 4 Dust a work surface with a little brinjals with olive oil and 3 T tamari or soya,
flour and shape the gnocchi into logs. then roast for 10 minutes. 3 Whisk the 1 To make the onions, preheat the oven

26 TASTE JUNE 2019


W IN TE R VE GETA B L ES: PA RT 1

“Start with the best-


quality produce and
half your job is done”

to 200°C. Place all the onions in a deep Preparation: 40 minutes 180°C. Place all the ingredients into a deep
baking dish, drizzle with olive oil, season Cooking: 1 hour roasting tray, then pour over the milk.
well and roast until caramelised, golden Poach in the oven for 1 hour, or until the
and cooked through, about 40–50 minutes. For the mash: vegetables are soft and cooked through,
2 Remove from the oven, allow to cool whole turnips 8, peeled and quartered stirring occasionally. 2 Remove the bay
slightly and peel carefully. Tear in half, then baby carrots 400 g leaves from the tray, scoop out the
return to the dish. Season and pour over garlic 2 cloves, crushed vegetables and blend, using a little of the
the stock. Add the garlic, beans and dot bay leaves 4 cooking liquid, until the mixture is the
with the butter. Return to the oven for a sea salt and freshly ground black consistency of mashed potato. Adjust the
further 15–20 minutes until the stock is pepper, to taste seasoning and set aside. 3 While the
slightly reduced. 3 To make the croutons, full-cream milk 1 litre vegetables are poaching, prepare the
heat the butter and olive oil in a pan and butternut. Place the butternut on a
toast the ciabatta until crispy and golden For the roast butternut: roasting tray, drizzle with olive oil and
brown. Sprinkle the onions with the large butternut 1, peeled, seeded and season. Bake at 180°C for 45–50 minutes,
toasted ciabatta and Parmesan to serve. cut into chunks or until tender and golden. 4 Meanwhile,
FAT-CONSCIOUS, HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, olive oil 2 T place the remaining ingredients for the
MEAT-FREE sea salt and freshly ground pepper, butternut into a saucepan and bring to the
WINE: Woolworths La Motte Merlot 2018 to taste boil, stirring until syrupy. Brush the warm
honey 2–3 T glaze over the butternut for the last 5–10
MILK-POACHED CARROT- vino cotto 2–3 T minutes of cooking time. 5 To make the
AND-TURNIP MASH WITH lime juice 1–2 T creamy pink peppercorn sauce, heat the
VINO COTTO-ROASTED olive oil in a saucepan and caramelise the
BUTTERNUT For the creamy pink peppercorn sauce: shallots, cut side down, until golden. Add
“You could also poach the carrots and olive oil 1 T the garlic, cream and peppercorns. Simmer
turnips on the stove, but there’s much more shallots 2, peeled and halved until the mixture has thickened slightly and
caramelising and flavour development garlic 2 cloves, crushed coats the back of a spoon. Season to taste.
when you cook them in the oven. This recipe cream 1 cup 6 To serve, spoon the mash onto a platter
is delicious on its own or served with lemon- pink peppercorns 2 T, slightly crushed and arrange the butternut on top. Serve
and-rosemary roast chicken.” butter 1 T the sauce on the side.
sea salt and freshly ground black HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE,
Serves 6 pepper, to taste WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
EASY WINE: Woolworths Simonsig
GREAT VALUE 1 To make the mash, preheat the oven to Chenin Blanc Pinotage 2018

28 TASTE JUNE 2019


AS UPMARKE FURNITURE AND INCREASE IN VALUE
Comparable to top-notch decorative stores in London, New York and Paris

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A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

SOUP’S ON!
Few things beat a bowl of comforting home-made soup on a cold night, but who has
time for all that chopping and slicing? With Woolworths’ range of pre-cut soup mixes,
that bowl is closer than you think. Pick your favourite soup mix (butternut, minestrone or
chunky veg), add stock, simmer, and there you go! You could also take it up a notch with
the brand-new range of soup kits: choose between Asian noodle, lentil and tomato, or
curry cauliflower. These kits serve two as a starter and include soaked grains, freshly cut
veggies, a flavourful aromatic paste and fresh herbs to garnish. Enjoy as is or customise
them with croutons, sprinkles or a dash of coconut cream and you’ve got everything you
need for a feast. woolworths.co.za
SERVING SUGGESTION Prepare the soup according to package
instructions and serve hot with griddled sourdough or ciabatta and smoky
paprika-and-garlic butter. The curried cauliflower soup is delicious
simmered with a dash of coconut cream, topped with spicy oil
and fresh coriander or microherbs. Serve the tomato-and-
lentil soup with a few blistered baby tomatoes
and fresh oregano or parsley.
PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT EMMA NKUNZANA
WHAT TO EAT, KNOW,
DO AND BUY NOW
EDITED BY KATHARINE POPE
PHOTOGRAPH MYBURGH DU PLESSIS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE VAN ROOYEN

T I N -T O -TA B L E
DINING
If you thought that canned food was only
for camping and end-of-the-month dinners,
think again. A new wave of chefs is making
cans look cool

TASTE JUNE2019 31
TA B L E TALK

TREND

Preservation
station
Break out the can-openers: from hotspots celebrating the
preservation traditions of Spain and Portugal, to a zany Japanese
chain, chefs have never shown canned food this much love N7 in New Orleans Located
in a garden that was once a tyre shop,
this spot serves Japanese-influenced
French cuisine inspired by canned food.
The team started out serving a vast
array of dishes from the can and now
makes almost all their own preserves,
pâtés and terrines. Chef Yuki Yamaguchi
smokes mackerel in her on-site smoker,
fillets and preserves fresh sardines, and
transforms rabbits, ducks and pigs’
heads into terrines.

Mr Kanso in Tokyo

PHOTOGRAPHS MARIANA MOTTA VEIGA, TOSHIFUKUOKA VIA FLICKR, ULRICH LENFFER AND N7
This Japanese chain of bars boasts more
Continental Deli in Sydney Taking inspiration from Spain, this deli serves than 300 dishes all served from cans.
sardines in olive oil, octopus in a Galician sauce, mussels in harissa and mackerel with With no need for an in-house kitchen,
tomato – and more – all from cans. “Our bar is often lined with people snacking on chefs, or scullery, the business model
tinned fish,” says Continental Deli’s Michael Nicolian. In addition to the seafood, there’s has proved successful and there are
a popular range of canned cocktails, including the Continental Mar-tinney made with reputedly now almost over 50 branches.
canned gin and canned salted caramel. Some products are imported from Spain and Order spam, pâté, or French salad from
France, while the team also do their own canning, using seafood from Australia and New a can. (You might think twice about the
Zealand. “We put everything from fish to cocktails and even T-shirts in tins,” says Michael. walrus, sea lion and bear!)

Can the Can in Lisbon


Canned seafood has been important to the Portuguese
economy since the industry started in 1865, and the
enthusiasm certainly comes from nostalgia. “We wanted
to raise canned fish to the level of a gourmet product,”
says restaurant partner Victor Vicente. The chefs create
recipes that pair high-quality canned products with fresh
ingredients. Think sardine bruschetta with roast peppers
and coriander pesto, a tuna samoosa with mango-and-
mustard coulis, and smoked trout with fennel purée.

34 TASTE JUNE 2019


TA BL E TAL K

TR D

It’s not all canned fish and spam: there are plenty of delicious
recipes that start with a tin, such as cheat’s dulce de leche
made with sweetened condensed milk
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSUR-ISMAIL PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY

CHEAT’S ALFAJORES desiccated coconut, for sprinkling The longer you simmer it, the darker
Popular in Latin America, these dulce de leche- the resulting dulce de leche will be.
sandwiched cookies are glorious sprinkled with 1 Remove the label from the can. Place 3 Once the time is up, carefully remove
a little coconut. Save time by using readymade the can in a large saucepan, on its side. the can from the water and allow to cool.
shortbread. Fill the pan with room-temperature Do not attempt to open the can until
water to about 5 cm above the top it’s completely cool as the pressure
of the can. The can must remain inside could cause an explosion.
sweetened condensed milk 1 x 385 g can completely submerged while cooking, 4 Once cool, spread the dulce de leche
Woolworths coconut biscuit dippers so check the water level every 30 minutes. onto the biscuits, sandwich together,
1 x 150 g packet 2 Simmer over a high heat for 2–3 hours. then sprinkle over the desiccated coconut.

TASTE JUNE 2019 35


TA B L E TALK

STORE SECRETS FROM…

The team
“I love this new chilli and
chickpea soup. I add chickpeas
fried in paprika to jazz it up, or
I eat it with a dollop of coconut
yoghurt and some crispy onion
They’re good enough to eat on their own, sprinkles.” – Abigail Donnelly
but with a sprinkle of fried pancetta or
swirl of yoghurt, these Woolies soups
are transformed into gourmet meals

“Asking me which
soup is my favourite is
like asking me which
superpower I’d like to
have – it’s impossible to
choose! My go-to at the
moment is the butter
chicken or farmhouse
chicken-and-mushroom
soup, with warm slices
of toasted ciabatta and
melted butter. Yummo!”
– Jacqueline Burgess

“I’m a sucker for the tomato


soup; so creamy, so tangy!
We often have it on Sunday

PHOTOGRAPH MYBURGH DU PLESSIS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE VAN ROOYEN
evenings, with a scoop of crème
fraiche if it’s on hand, or a good
“Butternut old cheese toastie for dipping.”
soup – I love – Jeanne Calitz
the classics!
It’s great with
a garlic roll or
toasted ciabatta
slathered with
butter.”
– Alistair Fester

“The Moroccan
lamb soup is my
favourite. It’s so good, “I love leek-and-potato
it doesn’t need anything soup. It's thick and
else. I love the combo comforting without being
of lamb, lentils, cumin too rich. I like adding a swirl
and smoked paprika. It’s of basil pesto and some
one of the reasons I look crunchy fried leeks.
forward to winter!” Bread is non-negotiable.”
– Michelle Coburn – Lynda Ingham-Brown

36 TASTE JUNE 2019


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

WHERE THERE’S SMOKE …


…there’s flavour, and lots of it. Case in point? Woolworths’ lightly smoked selection of fish,
gently infused with oak smoke. Using untreated German oak chips, the natural smoking
process takes place at a low temperature so the fish is imbued with a gentle smoky flavour,
without being cooked. The lightly smoked range includes boneless, skin-off tilapia with lemon-
garlic butter; deboned, skin-on trout; skin-on mackerel, and deboned and skin-on Norwegian
salmon. Simply remove from the easy-to-open packaging, bake or pan-fry until flaky, then
serve with your favourite side or salad. woolworths.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY FOOD ASSISTANTS JACQUELINE BURGESS AND CHIARA TURILLI

kerel according to package


h e of lemon juice.
TA B L E TALK

Part of Brik’s philosophy is to


use as little single-use plastic as
possible – the small amount of
waste they do generate goes
into eco bricks. The team also
aims to use 90% locally sourced
ingredients and cut down on
food waste. The spinach for this
dish is sourced from a local co-op
garden in Bezuidenhout Park.
café has received rave reviews for The stems are removed for the
outrageously delicious home-style mole, and used in one of Brik’s
breakfast dishes with fried eggs
dishes, such as these fluffy gnudi and a burnt butter Hollandaise.

While mole is usually


made with pumpkin
seeds and chilli, the green
mole served with this
dish is spinach-based,
with just a touch of chilli.
“We wanted it to be like a
green juice,” says chef and
owner Sasha Simpson.
It also features fennel,
lemon, white wine, garlic
and cream cheese.

“We wanted to design


a dish with ingredients
we could make in-house,”
says, Sasha. The house-
made ricotta is mixed
with just a sprinkling of
flour and breadcrumbs
to bind it.

SIMPSON FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE VAN ROOYEN

The gnudi dough is


PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY RECIPE SASHA

rolled into egg-shaped


balls, roughly the size
PHOTOGRAPH ANDREA VAN DER SPUY

of a R5 coin. They’re
boiled for two minutes, The mole is
until soft and fluffy, then scooped into a
placed in an ice bath, bowl, topped with
before being fried in the gnudi and burnt
burnt butter. butter, and a local
equivalent of
Grana Padano.
16 Baker Street, Rosebank, Johannesburg, @brik_cafe

38 TASTE JUNE 2019


LUPA VEGAN MENU
NOW AVAILABLE
TA B L E TALK

MY FAVOURITE TABLE I’m working on a project called The Best

Riaad Moosa
Medicine; the plan is to be educational
about health in a humorous way. I’m
doing videos, and planning some
podcasts, and then I’ve also got a
recurring skit planned called The Sick
While Cape-based comedian Riaad Moosa is often touring with his Doctor, in which I’ll be documenting my
latest show, or being introduced to a global audience via a Netflix experiences with all sorts of therapies.
special, he’s also a family man who appreciates home cooking –
and the food at WCafés Next up is my show Not a Nice
Guy, which will run at the Baxter
Theatre in Cape Town in June.
Basically, it’s about getting older and
I must admit to my wife, Farzanah, just needs to adjust feeling like I’m getting a bit more cynical.
loving WCafés the circumference of her eyes and they When you’re young, you try to be nice on
because of a fall in line. They’re so sweet though, and the inside and the outside, but as you get
tuna sandwich. they always treat me with something on older you kind of get over that. I think it’s
Sadly, they’re removed it from the menu. Father’s Day. Preferably not breakfast in because you’ve seen more of the world,
They’ve updated it, but now it’s a Niçoise bed – our bedroom is upstairs and it’s and you have more responsibilities. And
situation, and I am just not a Niçoise kind pandemonium with them squabbling you realise the human condition is one
of guy. Man, that fish sandwich, it was just over who carries what. of conflict – the heart says one thing, the
perfect – an open sandwich on ciabatta, brain says another, the animal brain has
with just a slight tang of mayo, and some its own point of view. I’ll be doing this
coleslaw on the side … But that was then. show for the rest of the year throughout
Today I am having the chilli egg omelette, “I’m not sure I’ll ever South Africa, and when I’m happy with it
because I like a bit of spice. have abs and be all I’ll film it. I want all my work to be easily
oiled up on the cover accessible online.
Chuckles are my secret vice. of Men’s Health but it’s
I love the yellow pack, the peanuts. Lots the goal that counts” I was halfway through studying
of other people must love them too, medicine when I decided to
because they’re often sold out! I try to switch to comedy.
eat healthily but it’s hard if you work at We follow quite a healthy diet This was around 2000 and stand-up
night, because then you come home and lifestyle. comedy wasn’t big in South Africa yet.
and you’re starving and you open the I’d call it Indian cuisine with a healthy spin. It was something I did on the side while
cupboard and there are the Chuckles, Lots of healthy fats, loads of veggies, as studying. Then I had the opportunity to
just waiting for you. little sugar as possible. We’re also on the be part of the Pure Monate comedy show
gluten-free end of the spectrum because on SABC. I’ve never looked back. I would
I have this one dish that I am my son is allergic. My favourite dish is the be much more melancholic without
very good at. classic breyani we eat as part of lunch on comedy. It makes me more playful.
You slice some bread, and there’s this the big, congregational Fridays.
device called a toaster, and you pull down Being part of the Netflix series
the levers and you wait and the bread I’m on a big health kick at the Comedians of the World was
shoots out … No, I help with the prep but moment. an amazing experience.
my wife is the expert when it comes to I’ve decided that I want to be my fittest It’s challenging doing comedy overseas
cooking. My daughter, she’s only nine, but ever in my forties. I had a big back because people don’t know how to place
she’s a pro, baking cakes and flapjacks. operation last year and it changed my me in context. They don’t know how to
PORTRAIT JAN RAS INTERVIEW JEANNE CALITZ

outlook. After the op I suddenly felt place my accent, which is a very flat Cape
We have four kids, aged one, old! So I’m focusing on my diet, being Town accent of Indian descent. So I’ve
four, nine and 11 – three boys careful with the carbs and doing some learned to lead with my accent, almost
and a girl. intermittent fasting. I know if I can get the a kind of deconstruction of the way I talk,
It’s busy and challenging but also eating right, I’m halfway there. I’m not sure and then afterwards it’s easier to connect
unbelievably rewarding. Children give that I’ll ever have abs though and be all with them. But it’s tricky, I mean I am of
such meaning to your life. I always say oiled up on the cover of Men’s Health … Indian descent but I look Arab. Yet my
you don’t often see parents heading But it’s the goal that counts. first language is English. And I trained
off to India to “find” themselves. Kids in medicine, yet now I am a comedian.
provide purpose. Not that it’s always Wellness is also a big focus That whole package is something
easy – I try to negotiate with my kids but in my work now. they’ve never seen before. @RiaadMoosa

40 TASTE JUNE 2019


TA BL E TA LK

*Riaad’s show Not


a Nice Guy will be
on at the Baxter
Theatre in Cape
Town from 10 to
29 June. Book at
Computicket.
TA B L E TALK

W H 1

It’s fast, it’s sweet, it can be creamy: there’s a reason


.
canned corn is a pantry staple. Try it in a cheat’s soufflé,
Cheat’s cheese-and-sweetcorn soufflé
a creamy purée, and ladled over crunchy nachos
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Mix 3 beaten free-range eggs
with 3 x 420 g cans cream-style sweetcorn. Fold in 250 g
grated Cheddar cheese, salt and pepper, to taste, and
1 T chilli flakes. Pour into a greased casserole dish and
bake for 1 hour or until golden and set. Serves 6

PHOTOGRAPHS JAN RAS, WILLEM LOURENS, TOBY MURPHY AND ANDREA VAN DER SPUY PRODUCTION ABIGAIL DONNELLY
AND HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANTS KATE FERREIRA, CLEMENT PEDRO, JACQUELINE BURGESS, CHAD JANUARY,
Pan-fried prawns with sweetcorn purée
Pan-fry 350 g butterflied prawns in 2 T butter, 1 t paprika
and 3 cloves crushed garlic for 2 minutes on each side,
then remove from the pan. Blend 1 x 420 g can cream-style
sweetcorn until smooth, then add to the same pan to heat
through. Season and serve hot with baby spinach. Serves 4

3
JALAUN BEUKES, CALLAN ARTUS AND KGOMOTSO MOLAHLOE

Double-corn nachos
Preheat the grill. Place 1 x 250 g packet nachos onto a tray
and top with the flesh of 1 avocado, 4 halved jalapeños,
1 x 420 g can of cream-style sweetcorn, 1 x 200 g packet
Woolworths fresh cheese sauce, 90 g pickled red onion,
100 g halved cherry tomatoes and 100 g finely grated
mozzarella. Grill until golden. Serves 4
.

42 TASTE JUNE 2019


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

A PERFECT
PAIRING
Situated in the Stellenbosch winelands, in an area
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT MARCELLE VAN ROOYEN

commonly referred to as “the golden triangle”, the


Alto Estate boasts a remarkable terroir. Cooled by
sea breezes and warmed by late afternoon sunshine,
the warmer slopes are ideal for red wine production,
which has led to more than 70 gold medals in local
and international competitions over the years. Alto
1693 is a full-bodied red blend with soft, ripe tannins
and a powerful berry bouquet. It’s the perfect pairing
for your braai – great with red meat, game and duck –
and just the thing to take that braaied steak and chips
from tasty to transformative. alto.co.za

Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18


TA B L E TALK

BOOKS But Durban curry is not set in stone.


The point about this community dish,

Curry on
which has become a national treasure,
is that it has always moved with the
times. It continues, as it did right from
the beginning, to respond to new
In their latest collaboration, Durban Curry Up2Date, Clinton Friedman circumstances and needs.
and Erica Platter pay further tribute to the makers and purveyors So here’s what we have found, in this,
of what are undoubtedly the best curries in the land our second helping of Durban curry.
There is still not one, single master/
mistress recipe for, say, Durban mutton
curry. Or Durban prawn curry. Or a bean
bunny. But there is, and this is how we
reflect it, Mrs M’s recipe, or Cindy’s, or
Kevin’s, or Bevasahen’s or Constantijn’s …
Nearly every recipe and story is
personal, and does not claim to be
the one and only. But there are shared
concerns and global trends which, in 2019,
influence the story, and how we write it.

“Durban curry is not


set in stone. It has
always moved with
the times”

A fresh, 21st century wave of culinary


influences and immigrants has broadened
local dishes and palates. Sticklers for
recipe purity are now welcoming
previously shunned ingredients into
the Durban curry family.
Time has become a major player.

PHOTOGRAPHS CLINTON FRIEDMAN TEXT ERICA PLATTER AND CLINTON FRIEDMAN


Everyone seems busier and more
pressured. The cooks who shared long,
slow, laborious dishes with us just five
years ago are now eagerly offering their
Solly Manjra, quicker, easier kitchen strategies.
Durban’s biggest Health and diet have become key
caterer, cooks more concerns. So, a Durban Curryy update also
basmati rice than means many more plant-based dishes.
anyone in the city. Then there is the chef factor. Durban
curry and fine-dining, in the past, seemed
destined never to meet. Now, they have
become really rather friendly. Durban’s
“This book is about of the mother cuisine faded, Durban leading cheffy-chefs are increasingly
Durban curry, curry became its own thing. Recognisably experimenting with ingredients and
continued... a show that has different from its roots: redder, hotter. spices to create new regional classics for
been running since the 1860s, when the More tomatoes, more chillies. Varying their menus. Durban Curryy reloaded and
first indentured labourers came from India from cook to cook, chef to chef. That’s updated reflects this gastronomic trend.
to work in the sugar cane plantations what we documented in 2014 in (Although let us reassure those who
of then colonial Natal. They brought Durban Curry, So Much of Flavour. regard this dish as the ultimate clean-out-
spices, and seeds, and recipes. And when, Now, in 2019, we find it’s changing the-fridge culinary strategy: we have you
inevitably, the influences and memories again. Not the classics. They are timeless. covered, too!) – Clinton and Erica

44 TASTE JUNE 2019


TA BL E TAL K

MRS M’S MARVELLOUS


KEBABS
Some friends and family arrived while we
were shooting this dish at Khatija Mall’s
Durban Berea house. Mrs M (above) remained
unruffled by this unexpected influx of visitors
just before lunch. Hard-boiling some eggs,
tucking them into the sauce with her spicy
kebabs (meatballs), in minutes she’d rustled up
a generous chicken-and-egg curry. A triumph.
No challenge at all, really, for a woman
whose business, launched from the boot of
the family car in 1981, with one product – her
famous Magi Masala – now features 14 stores
nationwide, and a factory and warehouse
bigger than an aircraft hangar.

Serves 6 water ½ cup


whole green chillies 3, for serving
chicken mince 1 kg “Launched from the dhania (coriander) 2 T, chopped,
ground green chilli 4 t boot of a car in 1981, for serving
ground turmeric 1 t the business now has
Kashmiri chilli powder 2 t 14 stores nationwide” 1 To make the curry, mix all the ingredients
crisp fried onions 1 cup except the oil and eggs. Shape the mixture
garam masala 2 t into balls. Heat the oil in shallow pan. Fry
jeera (cumin seeds) 3 t, crushed the kebabs, turning when necessary, until
ground dhania (coriander) 4 t For the sauce: golden and cooked through. 2 Meanwhile,
ground cloves a pinch onion 1 cup finely chopped boil the eggs until hard. Set the kebabs and
ground elachi (cardamom) 1½ t oil 4 T eggs aside. 3 To make the sauce, fry the
ground cinnamon 1 t grated tomatoes 1½ cups onion in the oil until soft. Add the tomatoes
white bread 3 slices, soaked in water, tomato purée 3 T and tomato purée and cook for 5 minutes.
squeezed dry crushed garlic 2 t Add the spices and water. Cook for a further
ground white pepper 1 t Kashmiri chilli powder 3 t 15 minutes, or until well blended. 4 Add the
salt 2 t salt 1 t kebabs to the sauce, then add the halved
oil, for shallow frying ground dhania (coriander) 1 t eggs, if using. Serve garnished with fresh
free-range eggs 4 (optional) ground jeera (cumin) 1 t coriander and green chillies.

TASTE JUNE 2019 45


TA B L E TALK

IMPULSE BROAD onion 1, chopped


BEAN BUNNY ginger-and-garlic paste 1 T
The bunnies served at Impulse restaurant, green chillies 4, slivered
Tinley Manor Beach, are not the common sort. tomatoes 2, grated
Shamen Reddi (right), owner, recipe developer, ground turmeric ¼ t
quality controller and hands-on eminence in mixed masala 4 T
the kitchen, makes sure of that. Not for her or broad beans 500 g, boiled until tender
her customers the usual hollowed quarter loaf salt, to taste
of standard white. Her bunnies are individual dhania (coriander), chopped
round loaves with cute little chef’s hat-style tops, white bread ½ loaf, for serving
custom-made for scooping out whichever
curry you choose. Such a good idea that a 1 Heat the oil in a pan. Add the cinnamon
couple of local supermarkets are now baking and mustard seeds and cook until sizzling.
them for home cooks. This bunny is Shamen’s 2 Add the onion and fry gently until
personal favourite – she is a vegetarian. golden. Add the ginger-and-garlic paste,
chillies, tomatoes, turmeric and masala. W I N A CO PY
Serves 6 Combine well. 3 Add the broad beans and of Durban Curry Up2Date (R395,
salt to taste. Boil for 10 minutes, then stir available at good bookstores
sunflower oil ¼ cup, plus 2 T in some chopped dhania. Spoon into the or online at durbancurry.co).
cinnamon sticks 3–4 bread (or hollowed individual mini loaves) To enter, visit taste.co.za.
mustard seeds 1 T or serve with roti and rice.

46 TASTE JUNE 2019


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

CURRY FLAVOUR
Few things in life warm the belly like a fragrant curry and, with winter headed our way, it’s high
on the to-do list. Whether you like a bowl of butter chicken or a creamy korma, spicy vindaloo
with rotis or a delicious lamb curry pie – you can’t go wrong with adding a spoonful or two of
Rajah curry powder. Now boasting new packaging and an improved formulation, Rajah curry
powders are non-irradiated, GMO-free and contain no added MSG – so you and your family
can dig in to your heart’s content. rajah.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH TOBY MURPHY PRODUCTION BRITA DU PLESSIS FOOD ASSISTANT ANDREA MASKEW

SERVING SUGGESTION Season 1 kg cubed boneless lamb and brown in 2 T oil. Remove the lamb
and add 2 T butter or ghee, 2 chopped onions, 1 t grated ginger, 2 cinnamon sticks, 1 t crushed garlic,
1 T Rajah mild curry powder and 1 t garam masala. Sauté over a low heat for 5–8 minutes. Return the
lamb to the pan and add 1 x 400 g can chopped tomatoes and 6–8 fresh curry leaves. Cover and cook
over a low heat for 45–50 minutes. Add 250 g chopped Woolworths soft-eating Elberta peaches
for the last 10 minutes of cooking time. Remove the curry leaves and allow the curry to cool for
10 minutes. Spoon into a large pie dish and cover with strips of Woolworths puff pastry. Brush
with beaten egg or milk and bake for 20 minutes at 200°C until golden. Serves 6

#TogetherWithRajah
TA B L E TALK

BEHIND BARS: JOBURG

Publik in
Joburg
David Cope’s wine bar has cult status in Cape
Town. Now, the team has opened up a second
location on Bolton Road in Rosebank. Jozi, charge
your glasses!

The ethos “He’s got a real passion for


“We encourage guests to the wines we work with and
try new wines, so always sharing them with guests,”
pour a diverse selection says David.
by the glass,” says David.
The by-the-glass options The crowd
change all the time, but the Publik draws a diverse
team always makes an effort crowd, from young hipsters
to include non-traditional to corporate folk, locals
styles, such as skin-contact and a surprising number of * Above: Jaco
white wines or light, fresh red foreigners. “I love nothing Smit is the man
wines. “The bar is not about more than seeing the bar behind the bar at
drinking what you’re used to filled with a mix of guests Publik in Joburg.
Below: Some of
but about discovering new and then seeing them
the bottles you’ll
options and styles.” connect over wine, sharing find on offer.
opinions and tasting.” The
What to order end of the week is busiest,
Champagne Drappier but if you’re keen to spend
Cart D’Or Brut NV: “Buying more time exploring the
famous Champagne brands wines and chatting to Jaco,
may be fun, but this really Monday to Wednesday
tastes so much better.” evenings are your best bet.
FRAM Grenache Gris 2017:
“Because everyone should The décor
try things outside their Joburg architect and
comfort zone, and this designer Carl Ascroft helped
variety brings unique flavours design the simple space,
and a pleasingly unfamiliar the hero of which is the
character.” Crystallum Peter impressive wine shelf.
Max Pinot Noir 2017:
“A smooth, balanced red The food
that delivers every time.” Order the Puglia burrata,
PHOTOGRAPHS DAWIE VERWEY

served with a splash of olive


The barman oil, basil and some Melba
The Joburg operation is toast, or opt for one of the
headed up by Jaco Smit, who charcuterie boards, which
has been on the wine side of include local prosciutto
hospitality for several years, and salami from the likes
previously with La Boqueria of Richard Bosman and
and Fermier restaurants. Neil Jewell.

48 TASTE JUNE 2019


TA BL E TAL K

THE LOCAL NEGRONI


While the bar’s focus is firmly on wine, they do make
this inspired classic with a local twist. “We use Caperitif
which is a local sweet vermouth, and Geometric gin,
which is an incredibly pure, smooth spirit. If you’re not
going to start your evening with a glass of bubbles,
this is a reliable alternative.”

Geometric gin 25 ml
Caperitif vermouth 25 ml
Campari 25 ml
orange slice

1 Fill a tumbler with ice.


2 Add the three liquid ingredients.
3 Add the orange.
4 Stir for 10 seconds to mix well
and dilute slightly.
publik.co.za

CAFE CULTURÉ
Need a break while doing your shopping?
Or simply want something delicious right now? Make
WCafé your go-to destination for breakfast, lunch,
tea time, or anything in between.
TA B L E TALK

WINE KNOW-HOW

7 hot winter
wines
We asked the experts to name their antidotes to the winter blues,
perfect for rib-sticking food, fireside drinking, and nights in with Netflix

CABERNET SAUVIGNON
For big personality and
loads of dark fruit
Wine e writer, Tshephang Molisana:
In a ffrosty Joburg winter, a layered, complex
Cabeernet Sauvignon in my glass is all I need
to coonjure up memories of wonderful times
spent with great friends around a roaring fire.
This red Bordeaux grape – a cross between WOODED
Cabeernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc – is the CHARDONNAY
mostt widely planted in the world and always For rich buttery,
offers something new. One of my favourites vanilla and citrus flavours
is thee Glen Carlou Gravel Quarry Cabernet
Globetrotting SA
Sauvvignon 2017 – I love the warming notes
sommelier, Taryn Nortje:
of ciggar box and cherry.
Red wines and cold weather
You’ll also like: Woolies’ Signature
definitely go hand in hand,
Cabeernet Sauvignon by Thelema, R169.99
but I urge you to also keep
your wooded Chardonnay
close in winter 2019. My
“A well-balanced wooded Chardonnay could favourites are full-bodied and
very well be a red wine disguised as a white” have a wonderful mouth-
coating richness. The way
I see it, a well-balanced
wooded Chardonnay, with
notes of sweet baking spices,
BUBBLY honey and butterscotch,
For subtle hints of spiced apple
ILLUSTRATIONS GETTYIMAGES.COM COMPILED BY MICHELLE COBURN
could very well be a red wine
and toasted nuts
disguised as a white. And it
Woolies wine buyer, Rebecca Constable: will definitely have enough
You really don’t have to limit your MCC drinking oomph to pair beautifully
to summer. For me, there’s no better way to cure with veal dishes, pastries, pot
the winter blues than sipping a glass of fine pies and even roast potatoes.
bubbly on a chilly evening while throwing logs I recently left Restaurant
on the fire. It’s a wine that’s versatile enough to Mosaic to travel through India
take to the dinner table for one of my favourite but I’ll be sipping plenty of SA
meals: seared duck breast with roast veggies Chards while I’m away.
(I might even open a second bottle when I head Try the: Woolies’ Signature
back to the couch to watch The Crown on Netflix). Chardonnay by De Wetshof,
The Woolies Villiera Vintage Reserve 2012 gets (winner: Best Quality
my vote for best wine to drink in winter 2019. Chardonnay in the PLMA
You’ll also like: Steenberg 1682 Chardonnay 2019 International Salute
Brut Méthode Cap Classique, R189.99 to Excellence Awards), R139.99

50 TASTE JUNE 2019


TAB LE TA LK

RED BORDEAUX GRENACHE


BLEND For red fruit and subtle
For elegant white pepper flavours
black fruit flavours BLACC Cellar Club chairperson,
Wine educator, Cathy Pearl Oliver: Aaah, winter … a time for
Marston (thewinecentre. fireplaces, warm cuddles from your kids, cosy
co.za): If I dare say it myself, times with your partner, and great wine in your
British people are very glass, of course. Grenache is always my choice.
good at winter food. We’re And if you don’t already know the stunning
all about long, low and slow Tierhoek Grenache from Piekenierskloof in the
cooking, especially when Swartland, made by Ian Niewoudt, what are
there’s a good red blend you waiting for? It’s a local beauty showing
to drink with it. I’m a huge gorgeous red fruit and spicy flavour.
Bordeaux blend fan – You’ll also like: Ken Forrester Grenache, R79.99
combinations of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet
Franc, Merlot and
sometimes small amounts
of Malbec and Petit Verdot. GEWÜRZTRAMINER
They’re elegant and rich, For clove and litchi
and you’ll find that they’re flavours to match
beautifully balanced by spicy wintry food
fresh acidity and velvety Blogger Roxanne La Vita
tannins. The Constantia (The Witty Wine Woman):
Glen Five is my kind of wine Gerwürztraminer is a winter staple.
– styled for the long term It’s a sweeter, aromatic white wine
but a definite treat now, that traditionally smells of litchi,
as is one of my absolute but can also have accents of ruby
favourites, the Raats red grapefruit, honey, apricot and
Red Jasper. Stay warm – rose petals. Gerwürtztraminer
drink red! is best when served chilled and
You’ll also like: Neil can be enjoyed on its own but
Ellis Ca et vignon it’s also an excellent pairing for
rlot, R99.99 SYRAH winter favourites such as spicy
For red fruit, spice
Middle Eastern and Indian dishes,
and smoke with
as the inherent aromas of the wine
savoury undertones
highlight the flavours in the food.
Savage Wines winemaker, It’s also perfect when you want
Duncan Savage: Syrah is always to introduce someone to the
my go-to when the temperature world of wine as there’s not
drops. This year I’m drinking overwhelming acidity on the palate.
Keermont Steepside Syrah You’ll like: Simonsig
because the wine – made from Gerwürztraminer, available
grapes grown on the slopes of directly from Simonsig
the Helderberg in Stellenbosch
– is epic! The guy who makes it,
Alex Starey, is a mate of mine and
happens to be making some of the
best wines in SA right now. Good
wine needs no special occasion,
just good glassware. Don’t be
scared to pull the cork, life is short!
You’ll also like: Radford
Dale Syrah, R129.99

TASTE JUNE 2019 51


TA B L E TALK

The Taste case


Today it produces a large range
of fine wines and is a bustling
hub of food and wine activities.
The Jean Garde Chardonnay
Surprise your dad with a stellar mixed case that includes the bubbly served is from carefully sourced
vineyards in Stellenbosch
at Mandela’s inauguration and Obama’s 2009 victory, chosen by Allan Mullins
and Robertson and reveals an
expressive burst of citrus with
tropical overtones of ripe pear
1 Spier Creative to Woolies’ Signature Series, Reg Nicholson who was and apricot. A classic al fresco
Block 2 2018 a range I blend with Rustenberg’s charismatic wine, much enjoyed at the
This wine is a harmonious and winemakers who I feel are winemaker from 1945 to 1977 legendary Boschendal picnics
pleasing blend of Sauvignon masters of a certain cultivar. and the creator of Rustenberg’s under the stone pines. R84.99
Blanc and Semillon. It’s pale This wine has layers of dark fruit legendary Dry Red. The
5 Graham Beck Blanc
straw in colour with hints of and plum with tasty nuances Bordeaux grapes, Merlot (30%)
lime on the edge, presenting of oak spice, while the palate and Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), De Blanc Méthode
a flavour explosion of fynbos is velvety with silky tannins and contribute blackcurrant and Cap Classique 2014
and gooseberries with a a lingering finish. R169.99 chocolate, while the Rhône When celebrations are in order,
tropical note of white peach grape Shiraz adds pepper your wine of choice has to be
3 Rustenberg RM and spicy aromas. R94.99 a Graham Beck bubbly, which
and granadilla. R169.99
Nicholson Red Blend was served at Nelson Mandela’s
2 4 Boschendal Jean inauguration in 1994 and at
Beyerskloof An innovative blend of
Signature Series classic varieties, named for Garde Unwooded Barack Obama’s election night
Beyers Truter Chardonnay 2017 victory in 2009. The Blanc de
Pinotage 2017 Boschendal’s viticultural Blanc is Graham Beck’s Prestige
Beyers Truter has made some heritage dates back to 1685. Cuvée, a total stimulation of
of SA’s finest Pinotage wines, the senses. As the bubbly
so he was an obvious addition froths in the glass, thrill to the
4 steely lemon colour and fizzing
mousse, delight in the stone
fruit and brioche aromas on the
3 nose, then fill your mouth and
1
feel the veritable explosion
of bubbles. R279.99
5
2 6 Hartenberg
Cabernet Sauvignon-
Shiraz 2016
This was the first wine to
be named as a Cabernet
Sauvignon-Shiraz in South

PHOTOGRAPH ANDREA VAN DER SPUY PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY


Africa. It has just celebrated its
25-year milestone, so it’s with
good reason that it has become
Hartenberg’s top seller. Expect
vibrant red fruit, hints of forest
floor and intriguing spice on
the bouquet, while the palate
reveals juicy fruit, soft, gentle
tannins and a lingering,
elegant finish. R114.99

Allan Mullins has


been selecting
wines for Woolies
for almost 30
years. Find these
bottles in store or
order online at woolworths.co.za
6

52 TASTE JUNE 2019


COOL
Beans are one of the handiest things
to have in your pantry over the winter
months. They’re perfect for bredies,
curries, savoury breakfasts and something

BEANS!
exotic like this Mexican tortilla soup.
“>}ˆ˜i̅iy>ۜÕÀÃqӜŽÞ}Àˆi`
sweetcorn, chewy black beans, fragrant
coriander, fajita-spiced chicken, fresh lime
juice … For the full recipe, visit taste.co.za.

www.droebone.com
TAST ES TH AT B I ND

A cheesy tribute
Mourning the loss of her beloved father, Ron, SAM WOULIDGE eases her grief while
also honouring her dad with many helpings of his favourite toasted cheese

M y dad is dead. And without him


the world feels unsafe.
I had a terrible feeling of foreboding
that last game of golf. Went for that run.
Stared at the sea. Asked a friend to take
a photo of just the two of us, which
“I regret not
making him
the toasted
the week before my father died. In those seemed strange at the time, but now cheese we ate
last pre-hospital days I found myself doesn’t. Sorted out his affairs. My dad in the cold”
being unable to breathe when I was close desperately wanted to live but he was
to him. The agony of loss had already also prepared to die.
entered my world and filled me with The thought of my son growing up with you Daddy, and I think of losing you,
isolating, crippling terror. My son, Seb, without my father breaks me. Ron was I can’t breathe”. And he would know how
was different; he stayed close to his an exceptional man. His capacity for love to fix this. He would tell me what to do.
grandpa. During those last days at my was limitless. I adored him. His laughter I’ve made this toasted cheese for
dad’s beach house, Seb would sit for was like him – it was loud and honest Jacques and for Seb obsessively these
hours next to him at the long dining- and generous, and it is inconceivable past few weeks. “In memory of Grandpa
room table that was covered with files that it shall be heard no more. Ron,” I tell my son, trying to hide my tears.
and paperwork. My father was, we now In those last days I made my mom’s And I argue with Jacques while I make it
know, leaving us pages of detailed notes special chocolate sauce. And we drank because fear and fury are so intricately
and instructions, and Seb sat at his side coffee and ate rusks on the stoep. linked. And I can’t breathe. “Tell them,”
drawing pages of intricately detailed And braaied with friends. We discussed I hear my dad’s voice. “Tell them, Saartjie.”
campervans. Later I found them watching essentials not emotions. We said our And I need to. As my husband and son
cricket, Seb sitting behind my dad on the “I love yous”. As we always did. But I regret eat the toasted cheese, I want to tell
back of the sofa and running his hands not making the Borough Market toasted them that I can’t breathe; that loss and
through his grandpa’s silver hair. They cheese for him – the one we ate outside the fear of losing makes my throat close

PHOTOGRAPH ANDREA VAN DER SPUY PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY PORTRAIT MICHAEL LE GRANGE
swam in the pool. They sat in the sauna. Southwark Cathedral in the freezing cold up. “Not that …” My dad’s voice again,
They ate ice cream. They laughed. While – because it’s calorific and messy and gently guiding me. “Just tell them you
I struggled to breathe. I thought I’d save it for another day. love them, Angel, that’s all. That’s
My father made a decision to have I needed to believe that we had more enough. Just tell them you love them.”
potentially life-saving surgery. But it was time. And then time ran out. And then slowly my throat opens up
a calculated risk. It was a case of being all I would do anything to have just one and I begin to breathe again. W
in or all out. And so my dad died as he more day with him so that I could make
had lived: on his own terms. He played this toasted cheese and tell him “When I’m confessionsofahungrywoman.com; @samwoulidge

THREE-CHEESE TOASTIE red onion 1, finely chopped cheese mixture between two slices
IN MEMORY OF RON butter 6 T of bread and fry in a heavy-based pan
You can really use any cheese you like but olive oil 2 T (if you don’t already have one of those
strong is good and generosity essential. Cheddar 100 g, grated electric toasted sandwich presses,
Emmenthaler 100 g, grated which I have now finally purchased)
Makes 4 mature Gouda 100 g, grated in which some butter has been melted.
EASY sourdough bread 8 slices 3 Use another heavy cast-iron pan (if you
GREAT VALUE have one) to weight down the sandwich.
Preparation: 10 minutes 1 Sauté the leeks, garlic and red onion Turn the sandwich carefully and make
Cooking: 20 minutes in 2 T butter and the olive oil, then mix sure it is brown and golden on both
with the grated cheese. 2 Spread the sides and all the cheese is melted.
leeks 250 g, finely chopped remaining butter on both sides of the WINE: Woolworths Ken Forrester
garlic 2 cloves, finely grated bread. Place a generous amount of Chenin Blanc 2018

54 TASTE JUNE 2019 TEXT SAM WOULIDGE


TASTES THAT BI N D

55
TAST ES LI K E M O R E

Pass on the pudding


Despite never having made it successfully, Ingrid Jones plans to make her
mother’s famous six-ingredient roly-poly pudding on national TV

wonderful meals every night. “‘Doodgooi’


Sundays were extra special in is what my
our house, because we got to eat aunts say when
a three- or four- or five-course meal it comes out
straight after church at the exact hour all doughy
at which “From the Bell Tower” was and heavy”
broadcast on Springbok Radio. I don’t
remember ever being allowed to eat
with plates on our laps, slouching in to help her mix and ice cakes sprinkled
front of the television when it entered with silver balls, glazed cherries, hundreds-
our home in 1975. And absolutely no and-thousands, and I would use a wet fork
food was permitted in the bedrooms. to trace intricate patterns in the icing.
So we sat at the green kitchen table She never corrected my creative skills.
right next to the stove, with the radio She let me be, bless her. And our cakes
on top of the fridge. Dad would pray always sold out (along with those crinkle-
and we’d eat my mom’s best efforts. paper baskets filled with sweets, popcorn,
I started my hunt for her little and something shiny).
black book by phoning my sister and Feverishly, I turned to page 252, and
other family members. Everyone there, on a page with cup marks on it,
remembered it, but no one knew was the apricot jam roly-poly recipe. Six
where it was. I was looking for two ingredients and the simplest of instructions.
specific recipes, jam roly-poly and Easy, right? But to this day I have never been
kweperkluitjies (quince dumplings) able to nail it. “Doodgooi ” is what my aunts
because they reminded me so much say when it comes out all doughy and
of winter – always the best time in heavy enough to kill someone if you throw
our neighbourhood, with the aroma it at their head. Whenever I tell people I am
of hot puddings filling our house and making roly-poly there is a collective groan:
every home in the town. “Nooooooooo!”
Finally, after much begging, My mom and my paternal grandmother
Jam roly-poly – a classic from Ingrid Jones’s childhood. I persuaded my sister to hand over were always the only ones in the family

PHOTOGRAPH ANDREA VAN DER SPUY PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY


a tattered, yellowed book with stained who could make roly-poly pudding
pages – taped together to keep it from to perfection. Maybe the two of them,

A few weeks ago, Sarie food editor and


cooking programme host Herman
Lensing asked me if I would join him for
falling apart. I could have wept with joy
and longing. This was not the missing
black book, but it was my mom’s favourite
somewhere up there, have conspired
that mine will always be a flop, and maybe
the message is that it’s the memory that
a recording of his show on Via TV. He is in cookbook, Kook en Geniet by SJA De Villiers will forever bind us. I can get down with
the process of producing a cookbook as an in its 21st reprint in 1966. As I took it from my that, right?
ode to his late mom and wanted me to cook sister, a note in my handwriting fell from the But I have told Herman that I am
with him and share a food memory about pages (and I translate): “Mommy, you must going to be making the pudding on his
my own late mother. teach me how to bake koe’sisters, please? programme. And I’m hoping that the two
I immediately remembered a black I can’t make it.” I can’t remember how old matriarchs will let up just the once and not
A5 notebook in which my mom wrote I was, but must have been in primary school show me up on national television! W
down recipes and notes from her favourite as my handwriting is still underdeveloped.
radio programmes, from family members Memories of the two of us baking Ingrid Jones, @jonesingrid, is the head of content
and the aunties who lived in our home a gazillion chocolate cakes for school and at Mikateko Media and co-host of Tussen Ons
town of Bonnievale. Those aunties could church bazaars came flooding back. I would on KykNet. Watch Dit Proe Soos Huis on Via TV
cook! And they would serve their families stand on a green chair at our green table to see her get the roly-poly right.

56 TASTE JUNE 2019 TEXT INGRID JONES


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT EMMA NKUNZANA

Over 300 years ago, Meldt van der Spuy fell in


love with the Cape and became one of the first
to export the region’s fine wines. Today, the Van
der Spuy family continues the legacy via the
delicious wines of Cape Town Wine Co., which
celebrates the character of the award-winning
vineyards on the slopes of Table Mountain.
Pour a glass of Cape Town Wine Co. Sauvignon
Blanc 2018, which has notes of citrus, apple and
ripe pear, with fresh linefish and lemon butter,
or crack open the Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 –
its delightful notes of cocoa and blackberries
will turn your next Sunday lamb roast into an
occasion. capetownwinecompany.com

SERVING SUGGESTION
Enjoy a glass of red with sticky, slow-cooked lamb shanks with lots
of garlic and rosemary from Woolworths’Easy to Cook range.

Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

With winter here,


the idea of a long,
lazy lunch is very
appealing. Let
Woolworths do the
work for you with
its wide range of
prepared veggie
sides. They allow
you to spend more
time with your loved
ones
ones, and less time
at the stove. There’s
something for every
taste: delicious
pumpkin fritters, new
potato croquettes, or
the most decadent
potato mash. Or
choose spinach with
a creamy béchamel
sauce with honey-
cinnamon butternut,
the ever popular
potato bake, or go
for a traditional
cauliflower and
broccoli cheese, or
a mix of broccoli,
butternut and baby
marrow. Simply pop
into the oven or
microwave and
take your seat
at the table.
woolworths.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT BIANCA STRYDOM
S C EN E ST E ALER

Swartland shuffle
No one knows the hidden gems of the platteland quite like Peter van Noord and
Johan van Zyl, the editors of Platteland. Duh. So if you happen to be taking the
N7 north from Cape Town, these are the dorpie detours you need to know about

60 TASTE JUNE 2019 PHOTOGRAPHS PETER VAN NOORD TEXT JOHAN VAN ZYL AND PETER VAN NOORD
SCEN E STEA LER

1
DIE ROOI GRANAAT (AURORA)
For a no-rush Sunday lunch
In August 2016 the West Coast village of Yzerfontein
became “just too frantic” for Evert Smit and Marais
Ziervogel, so they headed inland, a mere hour’s drive away,
to an unassuming, even sleepier hollow called Aurora. Here,
halfway between Piketberg and Velddrif and heaven, they resurrected
their homely eatery and pub, Die Rooi Granaat, on the same premises
as the late Austrian Helmut Wokalek’s restaurant L’ Aurore. Open from
Wednesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, Evert serves generous
portions of “seasonal country cuisine” or, if you want, “traditional South
African fare with the ubiquitous twist”. The small blackboard menu
changes almost daily: soups and salads, fresh fish from the West Coast,
oxtail and tripe in winter… Or book for their traditional Sunday lunch
(a set menu) and don’t forget to order a salad for the table … the
volcano of creamy dressing in the centre is to die for.
5 Skool Street, Aurora; facebook.com/Die-Rooi-Granaat-Aurora-West-Coast;
072 901 9133

2
ORG DE RAC
(PIKETBERG)
For an oyster-and-bubbly
overdose
The Swartland is known for its wheat and
fabulous renegade wines, but who’d have
guessed that incredible oysters could also
be found here? Turn off at Org de Rac
organic wine farm, where the grapes for
South Africa’s first Michelin-starred chef Jan
Hendrik van der Westhuizen’s own wines
are grown (available at Woolies). Take a seat
on the vine-covered verandah and enjoy
as many oysters as you wish with a glass
or bottle of their Platter four-star Cuvée
La Verne MCC while you take in the views
of Nieuwedrift farm across the river and
the endless wheat fields beyond. Pure bliss.
Open Monday to Saturday.
Off the N7, directly after the Berg River to the
left (8 km south of Piketberg); orgderac.co.za;
022 913 2397

TASTE JUNE 2019 61


S C EN E ST E ALER

3
OLD DALBY (RIEBEEK WEST)
For fillet, ice cream and G&Ts on tap!
Warning 1: No matter what you order at this old-fashioned establishment on Riebeek West’s main road, your tongue will
appreciate the fact that chef Jaco Slabber trained at Silwood Kitchen under Peter Veldsman. Warning 2: Once you’ve taken
your first mouthful of the Old Dalby fillet (a 250 g fillet topped with avocado, bacon and blue cheese sauce) or the slow-roasted pork
belly with sweet-and-sour sauce, you won’t be able to stop. Warning 3: Try to leave room for a scoop of Jaco’s legendary ice cream
with flavours ranging from Turkish delight, chocolate and peanut butter and Amarula Cream, to liquorice and Port, cranberry, and green
fig. The ridiculously affordable wine list focuses on Swartland wines – and don’t forget to try Indieale’s G&T (from Porterville) straight
from the keg! 24 Voortrekker Road, Riebeek West; olddalbyrestaurant.co.za; 022 461 2012

4
DIE HUT (MOORREESBURG)
For a Sunday boerekos bonanza!
Do you dream of grandma’s Sunday lunches? Leg of lamb, chicken
pie, gammon, gravy, pumpkin tart, soetpatats and, yes, rice and roast
potatoes … Dream no more! At Die Hut, legendary among locals for its Sunday
buffet, you will get it all. There’s even curry afval (offal), lamb stew with green beans,
and fresh, crisp vegetables. That’s after you’ve started with home-baked bread with
Peter van Noord and Johan van Zyl are korrelkonfyt (sultana preserve). Do leave space for dessert: we were treated to a mean
the editors of Platteland magazine,
tiramisu and chocolate mousse with vanilla ice cream. Moorreesburg is just an hour’s
@myplatteland, and the authors of Begin
drive from Cape Town. Plan a Sunday outing and come and eat your heart out!
jou eie Groentetuin (Human & Rousseau).
Open daily for à la carte and Sundays for the famous buffet. 1 Reservoir Street; diehut.
co.za; 022 433 2665 or 082 801 5804

62 TASTE JUNE 2019


NCA STRYDOM
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT BIAN A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

Now that winter’s here, our thoughts have turned to comfort food.
What could be better than a meltingly soft, slow-cooked lamb
shank with creamy mashed potato? (Take note for Father’s Day!)
Woolworths’ Easy to Cook slow-cooked lamb shanks offer you
all the satisfaction of a hearty winter dish, without the hassle. SERVING SUGGESTION
Expertly seasoned and doused in a rosemary-and-garlic gravy, Cook the lamb shanks according
to package instructions and
the dish comes in a foil tray for easy heating and serving. All serve with mashed potato. Heat
you need to do is add something on the side, such as mashed a little butter and fresh thyme
in a pan until the butter starts
potatoes and steamed green beans or butter beans tossed in to foam, then toss through
herbs and oil, and you’ve got the makings of a proper feast. warmed butter beans.
woolworths.co.za
S C EN E ST E ALER

5 6
NIEUWEDRIFT FARM LE MUST EATERY
(PIKETBERG) (MOORREESBURG)
For a pit stop on your way For chilling and eating
to the Cederberg al fresco
It’s Friday, you’re packed and ready to Set in a former nursery, this new day-time
leave the Mother City for a weekend in the coffee shop-cum-restaurant-cum-deli-
mountains. Get out before the rush and cum-gift and wool shop also serves dinner
have lunch at Nieuwedrift en route. Here, on Fridays and Saturdays, when you’ll
jovial wheat farmer Johan Mostert, who definitely find a meal to match your choice
also started making wine in 2001 (try his from the small wine list of affordable,
very affordable MCC, Shiraz, Chenin Blanc proudly Swartland wines. The interior is airy
and Blanc de Noir), expanded the offering and understated with wooden tables and
and built a wedding venue. Then, in 2017 elegant French-style frills, but on
his children and their partners opened the a beautiful day nothing beats a seat in
restaurant. Go for the wood-fired pizza the back garden, where there’s a play area
– we tried the King Mostert with bacon, and swimming pool for the kids in one
halloumi, caramelised onions and crushed corner. We highly recommend the spare
cashew nuts, and the Happy Hour with ribs and Angus beef burger, although
green figs, Brie, caramelised onions and our waitress informed us that customers
rocket, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. sing the praises of the wood-fired pizzas,
The bases are thin and crisp, as they should pastas and peanut butter milkshakes.
be, and the toppings sinful. Open from Unfortunately the huge portions might
Thursdays to Sundays for lunch and on thwart your plan for dessert…
Fridays and Saturdays for dinner. Corner Lang Street (R311) and Oos Street;
Off the N7 to the right, approximately 1 km facebook. com/Le-Must-Eatery; 082 782 3713
before the Berg River (9 km south of Piketberg);
nieuwedrift.co.za; 064 607 0041

BILL&CO PHOTOS DARÉLL LOURENS FOR SWARTLAND WINE AND OLIVE ROUTE

7
BILL&CO (MALMESBURY)
For a market outing (or drinks)
Started by winemakers and viticulturists David and Nadia Sadie,
Bill&Co is an “artisanal village” comprising a bistro and bakery,
a wine bar, and a deli and wine shop that specialises in wines and sustainable
fresh produce from the Swartland. Stock up on proper sourdough bread,
cut flowers, craft gin, pickles and preserves and fresh produce at the market
held on Saturdays from 10 am. Open from Tuesday to Sunday, with a play
area for the kids and safe parking.
1 Plein Street, Malmesbury; billandco.org.za; 076 330 0117

64 TASTE JUNE 2019


A PASSION FOR PINOT

Come and discover Paul Cluver Family Wines,


the benchmark producer of cool-climate
Elgin wines. We’re also a crafter of world-class
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and a leader in
sustainable farming for the future.

@paulcluverwines | cluver.com
SUN DAY LUN CH

THE SLOW
BURN
Question: how do you transform tough cuts or “cheffy” ingredients into
something delicious with practically zero effort? Answer:
sl-o-o-o-o-o-o-wly. Pork shoulder, duck legs, shortribs and beans get
the low-and-slow treatment for a Sunday meal that cooks itself

PHOTOGRAPHS
MYBURGH DU PLESSIS
POT AU FEU-INSPIRED
RECIPES AND
EXOTIC MUSHROOM-AND-
PRODUCTION
SAGE CHICKEN HANNAH LEWRY
FOOD ASSISTANTS
CLAIRE VAN ROOYEN
AND JASON REYNOLDS

66 TASTE JUNE 2019


SUN DAY LUN CH

GREEK-STYLE BRAISED PORK SHOULDER WITH FENNEL-AND-BABY MARROW SALAD

TASTE JUNE 2019 67


SUN DAY LUN CH

SLOW-COOKED
DUCK-LEG RAGÙ WITH
PAPPARDELLE

68 TASTE JUNE 2019


SUN DAY LUN CH

“The idea
is to let
the oven
or stove
do all the
hard work
for you”

SMOKY PAPRIKA-AND-TOMATO
BAKED BARLEY AND BEANS
R34 PER SERVING

TASTE JUNE 2019 69


S UN DAY LUN CH

POT AU FEU-INSPIRED 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the chicken sea salt and freshly ground black
EXOTIC MUSHROOM- is cooked through. 3 Remove the chicken pepper, to taste
AND-SAGE CHICKEN from the broth, cover with foil and set mint 10 g, leaves picked
“I can’t get enough of the clean flavours aside. Simmer the broth for 10 minutes, Woolworths sheep’s milk feta,
of this light, brothy stew. I bake the sweet then remove the skin from the chicken. crumbled, for serving
potatoes separately to prevent their flavour 4 Portion the chicken and shred the meat. toasted ciabatta crumbs, for sprinkling
from being overwhelmed by any extra Return the meat to the broth. Serve with
veggies I decide to add. You can use the mushrooms, sage and sweet potatoes. 1 Preheat the grill to high. Score the fat
any leftover cooked vegetables but place WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE, and skin of the pork shoulder, pat dry
them in serving bowls and ladle over your DAIRY-FREE using kitchen paper and rub the salt into
chicken and mushrooms.” WINE: Kanonkop Pinotage 2017 the sliced fat. Drizzle with a little olive oil,
place in a deep pan and grill for 15–20
Serves 6 minutes, or until crispy. Take care not
EASY to burn it. 2 Remove from the oven,
Preparation: 30 minutes
“Power saver! When turn off the grill and reduce the oven’s
Cooking: 1 hour 20 minutes
the pot au feu is temperature to 160°C. Pour the wine into
boiling, cover and the pan, then add the fennel, olives, garlic,
Woolworths exotic mushrooms
switch off the stove onions, peppercorns and anchovies to the
1 x 300 g punnet, sliced
and it will continue pan. Nestle in the lemons, return to the
olive oil 2 T
cooking for hours” oven and braise for 4–5 hours. Add
garlic 1 head, halved horizontally the chickpeas halfway through cooking.
small red onions 4, quartered 3 Once cooked, cover with tinfoil and
whole free-range chicken 1 GREEK-STYLE BRAISED allow to rest for 45 minutes before
sage 5 g PORK SHOULDER WITH carving. Slice and serve with the pan
Woolworths organic chicken stock FENNEL-AND-BABY juices and salad.
2 litres MARROW SALAD CARB-CONSCIOUS
sea salt and freshly ground black “Pork belly isn’t the only cut that gives you WINE: Woolworths Signature Series
pepper, to taste amazing crackling. The shoulder is great for Frans Smit Merlot 2015
baked baby sweet potatoes, for serving this, too. It takes a few hours longer, and
is less rich, but just as delicious.” SLOW-COOKED DUCK-LEG
1 Fry the mushrooms in the oil in a large RAGÙ WITH PAPPARDELLE
saucepan until golden, then drain on Serves 10 to 12 “I love a good ragù and this winter I’m
kitchen paper. In the same pan, gently fry EASY definitely making the time for this version.
the garlic, cut side down, until golden and Preparation: 45 minutes If you’ve never cooked duck before, this
fragrant, then add the onions and fry for Cooking: 4–5 hours is the way to do it!”
3–4 minutes. 2 Place the whole chicken
in the saucepan, with half the mushrooms pork shoulder 4.8 kg Serves 6
and half the sage, then pour over sea salt, for rubbing EASY
the chicken stock. Add more water olive oil, for drizzling Preparation: 45 minutes
if necessary so the chicken is completely white wine 1 x 750 ml bottle Cooking: 4 hours
submerged. Simmer over a low heat for fresh fennel 1 bulb, sliced
green olives 1 x 200 g sachet, drained onions 2, finely chopped
black olives 1 x 200 g sachet, drained garlic 3 cloves, finely chopped
BONUS POINTS garlic 2 heads, halved rosemary 3 sprigs, leaves picked
Slow-cooking isn’t just easy, it’s baby onions 3–5, halved and finely chopped
affordable, too. It’s the perfect way to peppercorns 1 T leeks 2, finely sliced
cook less expensive, often tougher, anchovies 10 fillets celery 2 sticks, finely sliced
cuts such as brisket, pork shoulder lemons 2, halved olive oil 3 T
and chicken thighs – the long cooking butter 100 g coriander seeds 2 t
time at a low temperature breaks rosemary 4 sprigs cinnamon stick 1
down the fibres until the meat falls dried chickpeas 200 g, soaked smoked Spanish paprika 1 t
apart. And you can get away with
flour 1 T
using less meat – slow-cooking
For the fennel-and-baby marrow red wine 2 cups
extracts maximum flavour that
permeates the whole dish. Bulk salad, toss: tomatoes 1 x 400 g can
it up with veggies and grains, and fresh fennel 2 bulbs, shaved dried chipotle chillies 3 (optional)
you have a hearty meal that’ll give baby marrows 10, shaved fresh bay leaf 1
you enviable leftovers the next day. lemon 1, juiced Woolworths chicken bone broth
extra virgin olive oil 2 T 1 x 125 ml sachet

70 TASTE JUNE 2019


ASIAN BEEF SHORTRIB
WITH MISO PUMPKIN

TASTE JUNE 2019 71


SUN DAY LUN CH

MAKE IT COUNT
Get the max from of your favourite slow-
cooked recipes with these tips

REINVENT AS A PIE
To make the pot au feu-inspired exotic
mushroom-and-sage chicken even
easier, bring to the boil, then reduce to
a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Turn
off the heat and leave the chicken in
the pan for 3 hours, covered with a lid.
If there are leftovers, shred and reduce
in the broth with a dash of cream to
make a filling for mini puff pastry pies.

COOK IN BIG BATCHES


Big-batch cooking stretches your buck.
Freeze the smoky paprika-and-tomato
baked barley and beans in Ziploc bags
and take out before you go to work.

ADD LEFTOVERS TO BROTH


Use any leftovers of the Asian beef
shortrib with miso pumpkin in an
Asian-style broth with noodles and
your favourite winter veg.

spreadable ricotta and crunchy just-out-of-


the pan kale.”

Serves 8
EASY
GREAT VALUE
Preparation: 45 minutes
Cooking: 4 hours

tomato paste 1 T 5 Meanwhile, in another pan, fry the duck large tomatoes 16
sea salt and freshly ground black legs in the remaining olive oil over a mini Rosa or Bella tomatoes 350 g
pepper, to taste medium to high heat until crispy. Remove olive oil 2 T
Woolworths free-range duck legs 6 from the heat and allow to cool slightly. onions 2, quartered
Muscovado sugar 2 t 6 Remove the skin from the legs and garlic 6 cloves, sliced
pappardelle pasta, cooked al dente, submerge the legs in the sauce. Simmer sea salt and freshly ground black
for serving for 3–3½ hours, covered, over a low heat, pepper, to taste
Parmesan, grated, for serving stirring occasionally. 7 Once the duck is red wine 1 cup
tender and falls from the bone easily, tomatoes 1 x 400 g can
1 Fry the onions, garlic, rosemary, leeks serve with the pappardelle and Parmesan. smoked Spanish paprika 1 t
and celery in 2 T olive oil over a medium HEALTH-CONSCIOUS balsamic reduction 1 T
to low heat for 5 minutes. 2 In another WINE: Woolworth Shannon Vineyards tomato paste 70 g
pan, dry fry the spices for 1–2 minutes Pinot Noir 2017 thyme 1 t
over a low heat until fragrant, taking care parsley 2 t
not to burn them. 3 Add the spices and SMOKY PAPRIKA-AND- rosemary 3 sprigs
flour to the onions and stir. Cook for TOMATO BAKED BARLEY coriander seeds 1 t, crushed and toasted
2 minutes. 4 Increase the heat and add AND BEANS uncooked pearl barley 300 g
the red wine to deglaze the pan. Add “This dish is a great, zero-fuss way to use uncooked black-eyed beans 165 g
the canned tomatoes, chipotle, bay leaf, overripe tomatoes. It’s hearty enough to vegetable stock or water 2–3 cups
bone broth and tomato paste and season stand on its own as a substantial vegetarian kale 100 g
to taste. Simmer slowly for 10 minutes. meal, and is so good with Woolies’ new soft, olive or vegetable oil 1⁄3 cup

72 TASTE JUNE 2019


HOM
SUNE-
DAYMA LUN
DE PI
CHES

FENNEL-AND-BABY
Woolworths Ayrshire ricotta 1 x 200 g tub
MARROW SALAD

1 Preheat the grill to high. Quarter 8 large


tomatoes. Toss them in the olive oil with
the Rosa or Bella tomatoes, onions and
garlic in a deep baking tray. Season to
taste. 2 Place under the grill for 15
minutes, shaking the pan occasionally,
then remove from the oven. Deglaze the
pan with the red wine, then add the
canned tomatoes, paprika, balsamic
reduction, tomato paste and herbs.

“Resist the urge to


keep checking – every
time you take off the
lid it releases heat,
so you’ll have to add
cooking time”

Season and add the coriander seeds.


3 Reduce the oven’s temperature to 160°C.
Add the barley and black-eyed beans to
the pan with 2 cups water or stock.
4 Bake for 1 hour, then stir. Nestle the
remaining whole, large tomatoes in the
mixture. Add another cup of water or
stock if the mixture is too dry. 5 Roast for
a further 2 hours, or until the grains are
tender and the tomatoes soft. Remove
from the oven and cool slightly. 6 Fry the
kale in the oil for 1–2 minutes, or until
crispy and brilliant dark green. Season
and serve with a dollop of ricotta.
HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE and grated same pan, then add the ginger, garlic,
WINE: Mullineux Old Vine White 2018 garlic 4 cloves, roughly chopped spices and orange zest and juice and
star anise 3 simmer for 2–3 minutes, or until fragrant.
ASIAN BEEF SHORTRIB cinnamon sticks 2 3 Add the soya sauce, stock, Indonesian
WITH MISO PUMPKIN chilli flakes 1 t soya sauce and bring to a boil. 4 Place the
“This recipe really benefits from being oranges 2, zested and juiced shortrib in a deep baking tray and pour
made the day before and kept in the fridge soya sauce ¾ cup over the sauce, reserving ½ cup, ensuring
overnight (leaving it to stand also makes it Woolworths beef stock concentrate the meat is completely submerged. Braise
easier to skim off the excess fat). The wait 1 x 340 ml box in the oven for 5–6 hours, or until the beef
will be worth it – just make sure to reheat Woolworths sweet Indonesian soya is fall-apart tender. 5 To make the miso
it thoroughly before serving.” sauce 2 T pumpkin, roast the pumpkin for 1½ hours
until tender but still firm while the beef is
Serves 8 For the miso pumpkin: cooking. Make a paste using the miso
EASY medium pumpkins 2, cut into wedges paste, orange juice and reserved shortrib
Preparation: 45 minutes miso paste 2 T sauce. Bring to a simmer in a pan and
Cooking: 6 hours freshly squeezed orange juice ½ cup reduce until thick for 5 minutes.
Caramelise the pumpkin wedges in the
beef shortrib 300 g, cut into chunks 1 Preheat the oven to 160°C. Brown miso paste mixture before serving.
olive oil, for frying the shortrib in the olive oil in a large pan DAIRY-FREE
red onions 2, sliced in batches for 2–3 minutes on each side, WINE: Waterford Cabernet
fresh ginger 1 x 2 cm piece, peeled then set aside. 2 Soften the onions in the Sauvignon 2016

TASTE JUNE 2019 73


No celebrated
TV chef wants
to spend their
long weekend
at the stove.
Which is why
Siba Mtongana
plans to
break out her
best cheat’s
ingredients and
make-ahead
desserts for
Father’s Day
on 16 June.
Just don’t tell
her husband,
Brian...

KORMA CHICKEN COTTAGE PIE

74 TASTE JUNE 2019


GOLDEN SOUP

FAMILY
PHOTOGRAPHS
TOBY MURPHY
PRODUCTION
JACQUELINE BURGESS
FOOD ASSISTANT
BIANCA STRYDOM

TASTE JUNE 2019 75


FATHER ’S DAY LUN CH

SAUTÉED GREENS
WITH BABY BEETROOT

76
FATHER ’ S DAY LUN CH

ORANGE-INFUSED
MINI MALVA PUDDINGS

TASTE JUNE 2019 77


FATHER ’S DAY LUN CH

KORMA CHICKEN boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for pepper, to taste
COTTAGE PIE 20 minutes until cooked through and Woolworths fresh vegetable stock
“If you haven’t already tried Woolies’ Asian reduced. 7 Add the chicken and frozen 2 x 500 ml tubs
pastes – a pantry staple so handy for instant peas. Season and cook for a further 5 freshly squeezed orange juice 2 cups
curries – you don’t know what you’re missing. minutes. Transfer to an ovenproof dish. coconut flakes, to garnish
I use them so often that I have created a 8 Meanwhile, cook the mashed potatoes fresh coriander, to garnish
collection of cheat’s recipes, from relishes according to package instructions. Season
and soups, to sauces, curries and even pies. and stir until smooth. 9 Spoon the mash 1 Start with the topping. Preheat the oven
In fact, I have two cheat’s ingredients in this onto the chicken and create a pattern to 200°C and lightly grease a baking tray
cottage pie: the korma paste and the frozen using a fork. Grill for 10 minutes or until with oil. 2 Place the chickpeas onto the
mash (scandalous, I know, but that’s what golden. Garnish with coriander and serve baking tray and season with the
busy moms have to do). It’s fragrant and mild with the atchar, poppadoms and raita. chermoula, cinnamon and salt, then drizzle
enough for the children to enjoy, too.” WINE: Woolworths La Motte Shiraz with the coconut oil. Roast for 25 minutes,
Grenache 2017 or until crispy. Set aside. 3 To make the
Serves 6 to 8 soup, heat the oil in a large saucepan over
EASY a high heat and sauté the onion, garlic,
GREAT VALUE ginger, thyme, cayenne pepper and
Preparation: 10 minutes
“I have two cheat’s turmeric for 4 minutes, or until soft.
Cooking: 35 minutes
ingredients in 4 Add the carrots and butternut and cook
this cottage pie: for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season
butter 3 T
korma paste and with salt and pepper. 5 Pour in the stock
canola oil 1 T
frozen mash” and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat
garlic 2 cloves, crushed and simmer for 20 minutes, half covered,
fresh ginger 1 t grated until the vegetables are tender. 6 Add
free-range chicken fillets 6, cubed  GOLDEN SOUP the orange juice and cook for a further
garam masala 1 T “I make a lot of soup in winter and this slightly 2 minutes, then blend until smooth.
Woolworths korma Indian spice paste spicy one, which just happens to be vegan, Serve topped with the roasted chickpeas,
1 x 50 g sachet is a great hit with Brian and our kids. It’s coconut flakes and paprika oil from
onion 1, diced important to sauté the veggies first so that roasting the chickpeas. Garnish with
tomato paste 1 T you build up the flavour in the beginning. coriander.
tomatoes 1 x 400 g can And remember, a gentle simmer is always FAT-CONSCIOUS, HEALTH-CONSCIOUS,
coconut cream 1 x 400 g can better than a rapid boil – the flavours marry DAIRY-FREE
frozen garden peas 85 g so much better that way.” WINE: Woolworths Paul Cluver
sea salt, to taste Riesling 2018
coriander, for serving Serves 4
Woolworths jalapeño atchar, for serving EASY SAUTÉED GREENS
Woolworths cumin poppadoms, GREAT VALUE WITH BABY BEETROOT
for serving Preparation: 10 minutes “I absolutely love greens. I grew up with
yoghurt-and-cucumber raita, for serving Cooking: 30 minutes a veggie garden in our backyard so, unlike
most kids, I enjoyed eating all types of
For the topping: For the topping: vegetables. Sautéed greens are my go-to side
Woolworths frozen mashed potato chickpeas 1 x 410 g can, rinsed and drained dish. I sometimes add a touch of extra magic
1 x 1 kg packet chermoula spice 2 t – baby beetroot in this case, because their
ground cinnamon ½ t earthy flavour is great with the sweetness
1 Heat the butter and oil in a large pan salt a pinch and pepperiness of the other ingredients.”
until melted. Add the garlic and ginger and coconut oil 1 T
cook for 1 minute. 2 Add the chicken, half Serves 6
the garam masala and half the korma paste coconut oil 2 T EASY
and stir until combined. 3 Cook for 8 onion 1, finely chopped GREAT VALUE
minutes, or until the chicken is cooked garlic 2 cloves, halved Preparation: 10 minutes
through. Remove from the pan. 4 In the fresh ginger 2 t grated Cooking: 45 minutes
same pan, sauté the onion for about fresh thyme 3 T chopped 
4 minutes, or until soft and slightly golden. cayenne pepper 1 t baby beetroot with stems and leaves
5 Add the remaining garam masala and turmeric 1 t 12, rinsed well
korma paste and the tomato paste and large carrots 4, peeled and sliced olive oil 2 T, plus extra for drizzling
cook for 2 minutes, or until fragrant and Woolworths cubed butternut butter 1 T
well combined. 6 Add the canned 1 x 500 g, packet garlic 8 cloves, thinly sliced 
tomatoes and coconut cream. Bring to the sea salt and freshly ground black fine green beans 300 g

78 TASTE JUNE 2019


FATHER ’ S DAY LUN CH

DOUBLE-CHOCOLATE
ROCKY ROAD

TASTE JUNE 2019 79


Watch Siba demo her
Father’s Day recipes on
TASTETube in the first
half of June.

80 TASTE JUNE 2019


FAT HER ’S DAY LUN CH

sugar snap peas 200 g For the sauce: orange on top of each pudding and return
asparagus tips 100 g butter 115 g to the oven. Bake for a further 10 minutes,
rocket, for serving caster sugar 55 g or until sticky. Serve immediately with the
mint, for serving orange juice ½ cup custard or ice cream.
lemon juice a squeeze cream 1 cup WINE: Woolworths Ken Forrester
sea salt, to taste brandy (or rooibos tea) ¼  cup Chenin Blanc Noble Late Harvest 2016

1 Place the beetroot on a roasting tray and vanilla custard or ice cream, for serving DOUBLE-CHOCOLATE
drizzle with olive oil. Roast at 180°C for ROCKY ROAD
45 minutes, or until tender. Allow to cool, 1 To make the topping, place the sugar, “Our papa bear has a sweet tooth and often
then break into pieces. 2 Heat the oil and water and orange juice in a pan over a has stashes of chocolates and sweets in his
butter in a large pan and sauté the garlic medium heat and cook for 5 minutes. Add work bags. Sometimes he even hides them
for 1 minute. Remove the garlic and set the sliced oranges and cook for 20 minutes in his wardrobe behind his clothes! I’ve been
aside. 3 Add the greens and sauté for until sticky. 2 To make the puddings, trying to limit his intake for years but from
5 minutes until cooked, but still crunchy. preheat the oven to 180°C and grease time to time I make him this easy treat,
Remove from the pan and mix with the a mixture of all his favourite things in one.”
garlic. 4 Mix the greens with the rocket and
mint, then arrange on a platter with the Makes 16 squares 
beetroot. Drizzle with lemon juice and “It’s a great EASY
season to taste. make-ahead GREAT VALUE
CARB-CONSCIOUS, FAT-CONSCIOUS, dessert because Preparation: 15 minutes, plus 1 hour's
HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE, it freezes well” chilling time
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE Cooking: 10 minutes
WINE: Woolworths Diemersdal
Sauvignon Blanc 2019 a 12-hole muffin pan liberally with butter. white chocolate 200 g
3 Combine the butter, milk and vinegar in good-quality dark chocolate 400 g
ORANGE-INFUSED a saucepan and heat for 2 minutes. Set mixed nuts 100 g, toasted and chopped
MINI MALVA PUDDINGS aside. 4 Beat the eggs and add 2 T sugar at (dry-fried in a pan for 3 minutes)
“Brian likes malva pudding so much that a time, beating between additions, until all toasted coconut chips 2 T
I have a few different recipes so that I can the sugar has been added and the mixture rose-water Turkish delight
change it up from time to time. He loves this is light and fluffy. 5 Add the apricot jam 100 g, roughly chopped
citrusy version and so do I – it’s a great make- and beat until incorporated. Mix the flour, Woolworths Chuckles 1 x 100 g packet
ahead dessert because it freezes well, which bicarbonate of soda and salt and sift a third
is why I bake it in a muffin pan.” of the flour mixture into the egg-and-sugar For the topping:
mixture, alternating with the warm milk Turkish delight 100 g, roughly chopped
Makes 12 mixture, until well combined. Repeat until shelled pistachios 60 g, toasted and
EASY all the ingredients have been added, taking chopped
GREAT VALUE care not to overmix. 6 Using a large dried cranberries 50 g
Preparation: 35 minutes  measuring cup, half-fill each muffin mould
Baking: 50 minutes  with batter. Bake in the middle of the oven 1 Grease a 20 x 30 cm baking tin and line
for 15–20 minutes, or until cooked through. with baking paper. Make sure you leave
For the topping: 7 Meanwhile, make the sauce. Melt the some paper hanging over the sides of the
brown sugar 200 g butter, sugar and orange juice in a small tin so you can easily remove the rocky road
water 1 cup saucepan. Bring to the boil, stirring from the tin when set. 2 Melt the chocolate
orange juice 2 T frequently, until the sugar has dissolved in two separate double-boilers. 3 Mix the
oranges 2, sliced and the mixture is light caramel in colour. nuts, coconut, Turkish delight and half the
This takes about 4–5 minutes. 8 Add the Chuckles in a bowl. Pour over the dark
For the puddings: cream and brandy while whisking. Simmer chocolate and mix. 4 Pour the chocolate-
butter 2 T, cubed for 8 minutes until slightly thickened and and-nut mixture into the tin, then pour
milk ½ cup velvety. Make sure the sauce is not too over the white chocolate and marble using
apple cider vinegar 1 T thick – the puddings must be able to the back of a spoon. 5 Sprinkle over the
extra-large free-range eggs 2 absorb it. 9 Remove the malva puddings toppings and remaining Chuckles and
Muscovado sugar 220 g from the oven and poke small holes into gently press down. 6 Chill for 1 hour, then
apricot jam 1 T them using a wooden skewer. Spoon 3 T lift the rocky road slab out of the tin using
cake flour 180 g (or more) sauce over each pudding, gently the overhanging paper. Cut into slices
bicarbonate of soda ½ t releasing the edges of the pudding from to serve.
salt a pinch the pan to allow the sauce to seep through WINE: Woolworths Diemersfontein
  to the sides. 10 Place 1–2 pieces preserved Chocolate Shiraz 2018

TASTE JUNE 2019 81


WI N T ER S OUPS

PHOTOGRAPHS
TOBY MURPHY MEXICAN BLACK BEAN
RECIPES AND
SOUP WITH CHIPOTLE
PRODUCTION
BRITA DU PLESSIS CHARRED CORN
FOOD ASSISTANT
JARRYD THESEN

82 TASTE JUNE 2019


ROAST TOMATO SOUP
WITH CAPRESE TOAST

Take our six hearty recipes inspired by Mexican, Portuguese and Asian flavours,
add something substantial on the side – think prawn toast or garlicky potatoes
– and your winter soup stash will be anything but stock standard
TASTE JUNE 2019 83
LEEK-AND-ONION SOUP
WITH RICOTTA FRITTATA

“Chunky soup is the ultimate comfort food and


making it is practically one of my winter hobbies”
– Brita du Plessis

84 TASTE JUNE 2019


WI N T ER SOUPS

CALDO VERDE WITH


RICOTTA AND GARLIC
BAKED POTATOES

TASTE JUNE 2019 85


WI N T ER S OUPS

MEXICAN BLACK BEAN pepper, to taste pepper, to taste


SOUP WITH CHIPOTLE sugar ½ t good-quality chicken stock 1 litre
CHARRED CORN garlic 1 head, wrapped in foil parsley a handful, chopped
good-quality chicken or vegetable stock
Serves 4 2 cups, warmed For the ricotta frittata:
EASY red wine or sherry vinegar 1 t butter 50 g
Preparation: 10 minutes olive oil 2 T
Cooking: 30 minutes For the Caprese toast: onions 2, thinly sliced
olive ciabatta 4–8 slices garlic 2 cloves, crushed
olive oil 2 T basil pesto 125 g thyme leaves 1 T
onion 1, diced fior di latte mozzarella 150 g sea salt and freshly ground black
Woolworths chicken fajita spice mix 2 T pepper, to taste
chicken stock 1 litre 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the free-range eggs 6
quinoa 40 g shallot and tomatoes in a roasting pan and cream ¼ cup
black beans 2 x 400 g cans, rinsed drizzle with olive oil. Season lightly and add large potatoes 2, peeled, parboiled
and drained the sugar. 2 Tuck in the garlic and roast for and thinly sliced
limes 2, cut into wedges 30–40 minutes. Allow the tomatoes to cool ricotta 1 x 250 g tub
feta 100 g, cubed Gruyère ½ cup grated
avocado 1, peeled and cubed
sour cream ½ cup 1 Heat the oil and butter in a large, heavy-
fresh coriander a handful, chopped “It’s amazing how based saucepan until foaming. Add the
simple ingredients onions, leeks, garlic and thyme, then
For the chipotle charred corn: such as tomatoes, season and stir until well coated. 2 Reduce
Woolworths chipotle seasoning 1 t garlic and shallots the heat to low, cover partially with a lid
butter 100 g transform into a and cook slowly, without letting the onions
sweetcorn 2–4 cobs moreish bowlful” colour, for about 30 minutes, stirring
occasionally. 3 Remove the lid and cook for
1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a a further 10 minutes. Add the stock and
medium heat. Add the onion and spice mix bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and
and sauté for 8 minutes, or until the onion slightly, then peel. 3 Tip the tomatoes, simmer for 10–15 minutes. Add the parsley
is soft and translucent. 2 Add the chicken onion and all the juices into a large and serve with the ricotta frittata. 4 To
stock and bring to the boil, then add the saucepan. Unwrap the garlic and squeeze make the ricotta frittata, heat the butter
quinoa and simmer for 8–10 minutes. Add into the pan. Add the hot stock and vinegar and oil in an ovenproof pan. Add the
the beans and heat through. 3 Season with and simmer for 10 minutes. 4 Blend using onions, garlic and thyme and sauté for
lime juice and ladle into bowls. Top with a stick blender and serve with the Caprese 8 minutes over a low heat or until soft and
the feta, avocado, sour cream and fresh toast. 5 To make the Caprese toast, lightly sweet. Season well, remove from the pan
coriander. Serve with the charred corn. toast the ciabatta. Spread with the basil and set aside. 5 Whisk together the eggs
4 To make the charred corn, mix the pesto and top with the cheese. Grill until and cream and season. Layer half the
chipotle seasoning and butter. Grill or char hot and bubbling. potatoes into the bottom of the pan and
the corn until cooked. Cut into thirds and HEALTH-CONSCIOUS top with half the onions and half the
slather with the butter. WINE: Domaine Grier French Rosé 2018 ricotta. 6 Pour over half the egg mixture
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE and top with the remaining potatoes,
WINE: Saronsberg Shiraz Grenache LEEK-AND-ONION SOUP onions and ricotta. Sprinkle with the
Mourvèdre 2016 WITH RICOTTA FRITTATA Gruyère and cook over a medium heat for
5 minutes, or until set underneath. Finish
ROAST TOMATO SOUP Serves 4 to 6 under the grill until golden brown and
WITH CAPRESE TOAST EASY cooked through. Cut into wedges and
Preparation: 15 minutes serve with the soup.
Serves 4 Cooking: 50 minutes HEALTH-CONSCIOUS, MEAT-FREE,
EASY WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
Preparation: 10 minutes olive oil 2 T WINE: Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2018
Cooking: 50 minutes butter 2 T
large onions 4, sliced ASIAN BUTTERNUT-AND-
shallot 1, sliced leeks 300 g, trimmed, washed and sliced CHICKEN SOUP WITH
assorted very ripe tomatoes 2 kg garlic 3 cloves, crushed PRAWN TOAST
olive oil 2 T thyme 2 large sprigs
sea salt and freshly ground black sea salt and freshly ground black Serves 4 to 6

86 TASTE JUNE 2019


WI N T ER SOUPS

ASIAN BUTTERNUT-AND-CHICKEN
SOUP WITH PRAWN TOAST

TASTE JUNE 2019 87


WI N T ER S OUPS

BUTTERNUT NOODLE AND CARROT SOUP WITH SPINACH-AND-BACON SALAD

88 TASTE JUNE 2019


WI N T ER S OUPS

EASY then drain on kitchen paper. baked potatoes, preheat the oven to 200°C.
Preparation: 1 hour DAIRY-FREE Wrap the garlic in foil. Rub the potatoes
Cooking: 50 minutes WINE: Woolworths Signature Series with butter and salt and wrap in foil. Place
Danie de Wet Chardonnay 2017 the garlic and potatoes in a baking dish
olive oil 1 T and roast for 40 minutes, or until the
lemongrass 1 stalk CALDO VERDE WITH potatoes are soft. 6 Squeeze out the garlic
fresh ginger 2 T grated RICOTTA AND GARLIC and mix with the ricotta, lemon zest and
garlic 2 cloves, crushed BAKED POTATOES paprika. Squash or cut the potatoes and
red chilli 1, finely sliced serve dolloped with the ricotta.
butternut 1 kg, peeled and cubed Serves 4 WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
coconut milk 1 x 400 g can EASY WINE: Iona Sauvignon Blanc 2018
Woolworths organic chicken stock 2 cups Preparation: 30 minutes
limes 2, juiced Cooking: 45 minutes BUTTERNUT NOODLE
Woolworths chicken frikkadels AND CARROT SOUP
1 x 600 g punnet olive oil 5 T WITH SPINACH-AND-
spring onions 4, finely chopped large onion 1, diced BACON SALAD
soya sauce 2 t garlic 2 cloves, crushed
canola oil, for frying Woolworths organic chicken Serves 4
basil, for serving or vegetable stock 1 litre EASY
coriander, for serving Preparation: 20 minutes
mint, for serving Cooking: 45 minutes

For the prawn toast: “Woolies’ chicken olive oil 2 T


prawn meat 200 g frikkadels add onion 1, sliced into petals
garlic 1 clove, crushed meatiness to celery 1 stick with leaves, sliced
fresh ginger 1 T grated butternut soup” garlic 2 cloves, crushed
free-range egg white 1 baby leeks 3, trimmed, washed and sliced
soya sauce 1 t baby carrots 300 g, trimmed and peeled
white bread 3 slices, crusts removed potatoes 500 g, peeled and diced good-quality chicken or vegetable stock
and cut into quarters kale 180 g, shredded 1 litre, warmed
free-range egg 1, lightly beaten cannellini beans 1 x 400 g can, rinsed fresh parsley a handful, chopped
sesame seeds 50 g and drained Woolworths fresh butternut noodles
sea salt and freshly ground black 1 x 250 g pack, cooked
1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a pepper, to taste Parmesan, for serving
medium heat. Bruise the lemongrass with chorizo 150 g, sliced
the back of a knife. 2 Add the lemongrass, For the spinach-and-bacon salad:
1 T ginger, garlic and chilli to the pan. Cook For the garlic baked potatoes: diced bacon 120 g
for 2–4 minutes, or until fragrant. 3 Add garlic ½ head baby spinach 150 g, shredded
the butternut, coconut milk and stock and large potatoes 4 red wine vinegar a splash
simmer for 25–30 minutes or until the butter 2 T
butternut is soft. Season with lime juice Maldon salt, to taste 1 Sauté the onion, celery and garlic in the
and blend using a stick blender. 4 Break up Woolworths smooth ricotta 1 x 250 g tub olive oil over a medium heat for 8 minutes,
the chicken frikkadels and mix with the lemon 1, zested or until soft and translucent. 2 Add the
spring onions, remaining ginger and soya paprika a large pinch leeks and carrots and cook for a further
sauce. Shape into small balls and pan-fry 5 minutes. Add the stock and simmer for
in the oil until golden brown. Add to the 1 Heat 2 T oil in a large saucepan over a low 30 minutes. Season to taste and stir
soup during the last 5 minutes of cooking. heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté through the parsley. 3 Pour over the
5 Divide the hot soup between bowls, top for 5–8 minutes, or until soft and sweet. cooked noodles and serve with grated
with the fresh herbs and serve with the Add the stock and bring to a boil. 2 Add Parmesan and the spinach salad on the
prawn toast on the side. 6 To make the the potatoes and cook until just soft. Add side. 4 To make the spinach salad, sauté the
prawn toast, blend the prawn meat, garlic, the kale and beans cook for a further bacon in a pan until crispy. Drain off most
ginger, egg white and soya sauce in a food 5 minutes, then season to taste. 3 In a of the oil and deglaze the pan with the
processor. Chill for 30 minutes. 7 Spread the separate pan, heat the remaining olive oil vinegar. Toss through the spinach and
prawn mixture onto one side of the bread, and sauté the chorizo until crispy. 4 Divide serve immediately.
right to the edges. Brush all over with the soup between 4 bowls, top with the HEALTH-CONSCIOUS
beaten egg and sprinkle with sesame crispy chorizo and oil and serve with a WINE: De Wetshof Bon Vallon Unwooded
seeds. Shallow fry until golden brown, baked potato on the side. 5 To make the Chardonnay 2018

TASTE JUNE 2019 89


HA N D- CRA FT ED CHO CO LAT E

Gregory Czarnecki
not only heads up the
kitchen at SA’s best
restaurant, he also
makes the country’s
best bonbons. Book
the dégustation menu
at The Restaurant at
Waterkloof and await
the final thrill of five
exquisite chocolates
unlike any you’ve ever
tasted before

PHOTOGRAPHS
WARREN HEATH/BUREAUX
PRODUCTION
SVEN ALBERDING/BUREAUX
TEXT MICHELLE COBURN

90 TASTE JUNE 2019


Opposite: Gregory
Czarnecki crafts
his bonbons in
Waterkloof's light-
flooded cellar. This
page: Mirror-finish
bonbons, the work
of a perfectionist.

TASTE JUNE 2019 91


HA N D-C R A FTE D C HOCO L AT E

The Restaurant at Waterkloof


won Best Restaurant at the
2018 Eat Out Mercedes-Benz
Restaurant Awards.

“Coming soon,” He and his team have insider’s tempered Valhrona chocolate. They are,
read the caption on Gregory Czarnecki’s nicknames for some of their favourites. in fact, so beautiful that some guests
Instagram feed almost four years ago. You might end up biting into the express doubt about whether or not
“What’s that? It looks incredible!” Chip Foose, named after the US they are edible.
someone commented. There was no designer who turns ordinary cars into “They don’t understand how you can
further explanation, just a series of gleaming showpieces in the reality make a bonbon that looks like this. Sure,
grinning face and heart-eyes emojis by show Overhaulin’; or the red-bottomed there are faster ways. Just take a brush and
other followers. The award-winning, Louboutin, named after the French you’ll get a similar effect, but it’ll never
French-born chef likes to keep people designer and his signature red-soled shoes. have this crazy shine on it.” He holds
guessing, you see, and the photo he posted Whatever you get, rest assured that it a plate up to the light as he inspects
of those intriguing orange droplet-shaped will be unique, and possibly strange, but each bonbon through his horn-rimmed
objects was the first clue to his new spectacles. “There! You see? A mark!”
obsession – handmade bonbons designed The chocolate he is staring at so
to be served at the end of the 15-course intently looks perfect to the naked eye,
dégustation menu at The Restaurant “You want more, but and you can’t help wondering whether
at Waterkloof. at the same time you he isn’t his own biggest critic.
Gregory’s chocolate collections, don’t know if you The super-glossy finish Gregory
the result of countless hours of want more” aspires to comes from the thinnest of
experimentation in colour and flavour, shells, created by spraying a light layer of
have since become a fixture on the menu, coloured cocoa butter into the chocolate
and he’s always changing them. One, you’ll relish the experience of trying to moulds. Don’t ask him to tell you where
called Marble, was an artful plate of five decipher what’s happening in your mouth. he sources them, it’s not a secret he
chocolates in shades of grey, charcoal is prepared to reveal, not even if you
and white, which had the appearance A corner of Waterkloof's threaten him with his own spray gun.
of natural stone sculpted and polished wine cellar, one floor below the But he will tell you that they have to
by a master craftsman. He has created restaurant, is Gregory’s chosen workspace. be carefully looked after and can only
gleaming pyramids; pop art swirls of He spends two days a week down here, be cleaned and polished by hand to
yellow, turquoise and purple; sparkling where the temperature and natural light prevent them from being scratched.
black gemstones. And beneath its glossy are perfect, crafting around 350 bonbons As he sprays, the steady hum of the
surface, each bonbon conceals a creamy to meet his exacting standards: there will compressor forms the soundtrack to his
ganache in a highly original flavour never be any scratches or fingerprints on work, with the occasional high-pitched
combination. the confections he makes using hand- note of the hairdryer that he uses to warm

92 TASTE JUNE 2019


HA N D-C R A FTE D C HOCO L AT E

for example. “It’s salty and chocolatey


and creates that umami in your mouth
and you don’t know what you are eating.
You want more, but at the same time you
The master inspects don’t know if you want more. And then
his craftsmanship. I can also go really crazy, like with guava
Just one fingerprint and goat’s cheese. The chocolate on the
will send them back outside is dulce, so it’s like caramelised
to the melting pot.
white chocolate and, combined with the
guava, it tastes like you’re actually eating
a strawberry.”

“Now I have the


machine and I can
do anything I want
to with it”

There’s definitely no
playing around when it comes
to storing and serving the bonbons,
however. Once they have been removed
from the moulds, they’re kept at a
carefully controlled 7°C and plated – five
bonbons per table of two – precisely two
hours before they are going to be served.
At this stage, they are moved to a room
set to 14°C, ensuring that they will be
eaten at exactly the right temperature.
A chocolate that is too cold won’t taste
like anything, says Gregory.
It’s tempting to want to take them
away with you, and difficult to imagine
that he would easily let his creations out
of his sight where, heaven forbid, they
might end up being stored or eaten under
the wrong conditions. But spiriting a few
bonbons out of the restaurant when
he isn’t looking might just be possible
up the cocoa butter when it gets too fraîche and raspberry vinegar … and now that they are going to be served
thick. “You know, if you’re looking for he’s just getting started. slightly differently.
a good hairdryer, go for Philips. I’ve been “I go experimental with two or three “We’re moving away from serving
through a lot of hairdryers!” he laughs. bonbons in a collection. The whole point them on a long white plate and instead are
“The cocoa butter goes everywhere is that the colours do not match what’s going to do a special box with a selection
– there’s more on the floor and in the air inside, and you have to figure it out. I’m of chocolates inside on a thermo-shaped
than on the moulds,” he adds, looking never going to do a standard espresso or plastic sheet – I even bought the machine
ruefully at his hands, which are slightly cappuccino or peppermint. They’re good, that makes the sheets. Sure, there are
discoloured by beta-carotene-like stains. but they aren’t original. When I was places that can do it for me but they want
“I’ve scrubbed and scrubbed but there’s growing up, chocolate in our house was you to order thousands and maybe I just
nothing I can do about it. I tried wearing an After Eight. My parents had them in want 100. Now I have the machine and
gloves, but after a while I have to take a cupboard for Sundays for when there I can do anything I want to with it.
them off because they just get in the way.” were people coming over. Man, I used “Here, we do everything ourselves,
Once the shells have set, they’re filled to hate those things!” you know. It takes a lot of time. But when
with ganache in intriguing flavours that Too predictable; too ordinary. A world you know you can get 100%, why settle
play tricks with your mind. Hazelnut and away from the grown-up chocolate he is for 80?” W
Parmesan; granadilla and basil oil; crème playing with at Waterkloof. Soy ganache, @czarneckigregory; waterkloof.co.za

94 TASTE JUNE 2019


PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY MURPHY
ROAST PINEAPPLE WITH
RECIPES PHILLIPPA CHEIFITZ BAKED SWEET RICOTTA
FOOD ASSISTANT ANDREA MASKEW R19 PER SERVING

96 TASTE JUNE 2019


BEST EVE R : WI N TE R PUDDI N GS

er i g ou i err l rc
ci rru -in
i u e
i
h z. ’ll i r r ,
l i !

TASTE JUNE 2019 97


BE ST EV ER : WI N TE R PUD

“Ad cinnamon chocolate


honey, ClemenGold and nut
to your winter flavour arsenal”

R25 PER SERVING

98 TASTE JUNE 2019


BE ST EVE R: W I N TER PUDDI N GS

WARM CHOCOLATE MOUSSE


R13 PER SERVING

TASTE JUNE 2019 99


BEST E VER : WI N T ER PUDDI N GS

ROAST PINEAPPLE WITH orange juice ¼ cup and frothy. Mix with the cream and gradually
BAKED SWEET RICOTTA cinnamon stick 1 add the chocolate. 3 Divide between 6–8
“Sticky wedges of pineapple crown slices honey 1 T ramekins and place in a pan of hot water.
of a gentle ricotta bake. If you really want fresh white breadcrumbs 1 T Bake for 30 minutes or until set.
to cheat, simply serve the hot pineapple butter 75 g, at room temperature, plus WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE
with ice-cold vanilla ice cream.” extra for greasing WINE: KWV 10-Year Old Brandy
caster sugar 100 g
Serves 8 to 10 lemon 1, zested CAPE BRANDY PUDDING
EASY extra-large free-range egg 1, beaten “This traditional recipe, tipsy with brandy,
GREAT VALUE crème fraîche, for serving stands up to the much-loved malva pudding.”
Preparation: 30 minutes
Cooking: 1 hour Serves 6 to 8
EASY
medium pineapples 2 (or 350 g precut “A steaming bowl of GREAT VALUE
queen pineapple) pudding is the ultimate Preparation: 30 minutes
light brown sugar 70 g comfort food” Cooking: 40–50 minutes
butter 45 g, plus extra for greasing
fresh ricotta 750 g, well-drained and chopped, pitted dates 250 g
at room temperature 1 Preheat the oven to 190°C. Grind 60 g bicarbonate of soda 1 t
extra-large free-range eggs 3, separated pecan nut pieces in a coffee grinder or mini boiling water 1 cup
runny honey 4 T chopper. Set aside. 2 Peel the pears and butter 115 g, at room temperature,
mint, to garnish (optional) slice thinly. Cook gently with the orange plus extra for greasing
juice and cinnamon stick in a saucepan for sugar 200 g
1 Preheat the oven to 230°C. Top and tail the 5 minutes, or until just tender. Remove the extra-large free-range eggs 2, beaten
pineapples. Peel and trim where necessary. cinnamon stick. Mix the cooked pears with flour 240 g
Cut each one lengthways into 6–8 pieces. the honey and breadcrumbs and allow to baking powder 1 t
2 Place on a baking tray lined with baking cool. Place in a litre-sized greased ovenproof salt ½ t
paper. Sprinkle with the sugar and dot with dish. 3 Cream the butter and sugar. Add the walnuts 100 g, lightly roasted and chopped
butter. Roast for 15–20 minutes, or until ground pecans, lemon zest and beaten egg. whipped cream or vanilla ice cream,
the sugar and butter start to catch and Spread the mixture evenly over the pears. for serving
caramelise. Wrap the sticky pineapple in Sprinkle with the reserved pecan nut pieces
foil to keep warm while baking the ricotta. and bake for 30 minutes, or until browned. For the sauce:
3 Beat the ricotta with the egg yolks until Serve warm with the crème fraîche. sugar 250 g
smooth and fluffy, then beat in the honey. WINE: De Krans White Port NV butter 1 T
Beat the egg whites until stiff, then fold into water ¾ cup
the ricotta mixture. 4 Line a greased 20 cm WARM CHOCOLATE MOUSSE vanilla extract 1 t
springform pan with baking paper. Pour in “This is a heart-warming, dense, chocolatey salt a pinch
the ricotta mixture, smoothing the top. way to end a winter dinner.” brandy ½ cup
Bake at 190°C for 50 minutes or until risen,
pale golden and firm. Serve warm, in Serves 6 to 8 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Divide the
wedges, with the roast pineapple, EASY dates in half. Add the bicarbonate of soda
garnished with mint. GREAT VALUE to one half and pour over the boiling water.
WHEAT- AND GLUTEN-FREE Preparation: 25 minutes Stir, then allow to cool. 2 Cream the butter
WINE: Woolworths Paul Cluver Cooking: 40 minutes and sugar, add the beaten eggs and mix
Riesling 2018 well. 3 Sift together the flour, baking powder
70% dark chocolate 125 g and salt, then fold into the butter mixture.
PEAR-AND-PECAN PUDDING prepared strong black coffee 3 T Add the remaining dates and the walnuts.
“Pears and pecans are a great combo, all the brandy 1 T Stir in the date-and-bicarbonate of soda
more in this satisfying, easy-to-make pudding.” salt a pinch mixture and mix well. Turn into a greased
cream 1⁄3 cup ovenproof dish and bake for 40–50 minutes.
Serves 6 extra-large free-range eggs 3 4 To make the sauce, heat the sugar, butter
EASY sugar 70 g and water for 5 minutes. Remove from the
GREAT VALUE heat and stir in the vanilla, salt and brandy.
Preparation: 30 minutes 1 Preheat the oven to 150°C. Break the Pour the syrup over the hot pudding as
Cooking: 30 minutes chocolate into pieces. Melt in a saucepan soon as it comes out the oven. Serve hot,
with the coffee, brandy and salt. Set aside. with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.
pecan nut pieces 100 g Whip the cream until soft peaks form, then WINE: Boplaas Potstill Brandy
pears 1 kg chill. 2 Beat the eggs and sugar until thick

100 TASTE JUNE 2019


BE ST EVE R: W I N TER PUDDI N GS

CAPE BRANDY PUDDING


R26 PER SERVING

TASTE JUNE 2019 101


ST EV ER : WI N TE R PUDDI N GS

CLEMENGOLD PUDDING
R14 PER SERVING

CLEMENGOLD
PUDDING
“A splash of gin adds
wonderful kick, but don’t
be too heavy-handed pan filled with hot water and bake for
when you’re serving 1 hour or until browned and set on top.
this at a family supper.” If the pudding seems to be browning
too much, cover with foil. The top of the
Serves 4 to 6 pudding will be spongy, the bottom soft
EASY For the caramelised ClemenGolds: and custardy. Serve warm garnished with
GREAT VALUE ClemenGolds 3 the caramelised ClemenGolds. Add a
Preparation: 20 minutes butter 1 T splash of ClemenGold gin, if you like, to
Cooking: 1 hour honey 1 T each serving. 4 To make the caramelised
ClemenGolds, halve the fruit through
flour 60 g 1 Preheat the oven to 160°C. Sift the flour, the middle. Melt the butter and honey
sugar 160 g sugar and salt into a bowl. Stir in the in a small non-stick pan over a low heat.
salt a pinch ClemenGold zest. 2 Beat the egg yolks Add the halved ClemenGolds – cut side
ClemenGolds 4, finely zested with the milk and ClemenGold juice until down – and cook over a low heat for 5–10
extra-large free-range eggs 4, separated light and frothy, then gradually stir into minutes until caramelised. Turn to coat
full-cream milk 11⁄3 cups the flour mixture. Beat the egg whites with caramel.
ClemenGold juice 2⁄3 cup, strained until stiff peaks form, then fold into the WINE: Woolworths Diemersdal
butter, for greasing mixture. Pour into a greased ovenproof Passionfruit Sauvignon Blanc 2018
ClemenGold gin (optional), for serving dish, 20 x 15 x 5 cm. 3 Place in a baking

102 TASTE JUNE 2019


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

Set those cold shivers straight, pronto, with Woolies' glühwein – a warming blend
of red wine and spices including cinnamon, cloves and allspice. In case of a cold-front
emergency, simply open, decant into a saucepan and heat, then pour yourself a cup
and savour every last hot, spicy sip. Repeat if necessary!
woolworths.co.za
ABIGAIL DONNELLY FOOD ASSISTANT JACQUELINE BURGESS
PHOTOGRAPH SADIQAH ASSUR-ISMAIL PRODUCTION

SERVING SUGGESTION
CHERRIES JUBILEE
Heat 1½ cups Woolworths Fireside Red
glühwein and 3 T sugar, then simmer for
15 minutes until reduced to a runny syrup.
Add 200 g cherries. Serve hot with your
favourite ice cream.

Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18


Big, bustling Bangkok is home to one of
the largest Chinatown districts in Asia.
Opposite: Fragrant curry laksa topped
with tofu puffs, a popular breakfast bowl
on Madras Street in Kuala Lumpur.

104 TASTE JUNE 2019


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Love street food, will travel? Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore
are your go-to cities, and the most budget-friendly way to discover
their best kept secrets is to plan a southeast Asia train trip.
Let Richard Holmes set you on the right track…

PHOTOGRAPHS AND TEXT RICHARD HOLMES

TASTE JUNE 2019 105


T R AVEL

Bangkok’s historic
Hua Lamphong
Station is the
departure point
for Thailand’s long-
distance trains.

“It’s good … but the European-inspired menu by chef


Ryuki Kawasaki could set you back an
it’s not the best,” “Bollywood tunes eye-watering THB6500 (R2 950). If
is Diamond Thongsaem’s verdict on the blast from fabric that’s beyond your budget, rather stop
pad Thai we have just sampled. When and spice shops, in for one of the innovative cocktails at
you’re in Thailand, this is the dish with with restaurants and the hotel’s Sky Bar (at a height of 250
which to start your food quest. I have canteens serving metres, it’s billed as one of the highest in
enlisted Diamond, a Streetwise Guru fragrant dhal” the world), then head back to the streets
tour guide from the Anantara Riverside
hotel (see Where to Stay, page 109),
to help me find the finest in Bangkok. that morning at the rough-and-tumble
If you listen to Google, the best in the Bangluck market. It’s best experienced WHAT DOES IT COST?
city can be eaten at Thip Samai on Maha at dawn, when the market is jammed Train travel in Asia is extremely
Chai Road. But online acclaim comes with stalls and shoppers, but Diamond’s affordable. In November 2018, the
at a price, and the lines often stretch favourite sweet seller was still open 1 920-kilometre scenic journey from
around the block. when we arrived just before lunchtime. Bangkok to Singapore cost R1 343.
“No need to queue! Few tourists We wandered away bearing a carton (A one-way ticket on a budget airline
bother to look just a few doors down,” of Thai desserts: jelly with coconut milk, for the same journey will cost around
says Diamond, ushering me towards and more elaborate options topped R1 400). My second-class sleeper
Leung Pha, where they have been coal- with coconut shavings and custard. compartment on the Bangkok to
Kuala Lumpur leg of the trip had
firing pans of pad Thai since long before The duplicity of Bangkok’s food scene
spacious seats that converted to
Thip Samai hit Tripadvisor. The noodles is obvious in this part of town. In the
comfy beds at night, with friendly
are delicious indeed, the lines are short, alleyways, a bag of simple but delicious attendants supplying fresh linen and
and a generous portion will set you back steamed pork and rice costs just THB150 pillows. Online bookings can be made
just THB60 (R28). (R60), while at the two-Michelin-star at 12go.asia and baolau.com.
We had started our foodie wanderings Mezzaluna restaurant at Lebua Hotel,

106 TASTE JUNE 2019


Clockwise from top left: Impromptu pavement markets in Bangkok abound with fresh produce and street snacks; padThai piled high at Leung Pha in Bangkok; the chicken wings atWong
Ah Wah in KL are worth the long-haul flight; Diamond Thongsaem (right) – the“Streetwise Guru”of Bangkok’s streetfood; riding the rails with the locals is the cheapest way to get around
south-east Asia; a monk takes time out in southern Thailand.
T R AVEL

Clockwise from top left: Jellied coconut milk treats from Bangluck market; rojak (fruit and vegetable) salad drizzled with sweet peanut sauce in Singapore’s Little India;
Bangkok’s Thip Samai, where you’ll queue for your noodles.

for fare that’s decidedly more affordable. humidity. Near Hua Lamphong Station, snacks from Thailand.
The next morning, I take my own a snack of steamed buns filled with pork But all is forgotten in Kuala Lumpur
advice and decide to spend it hopping and taro keep me going as I collect my that evening as I greedily wander down
the river taxis upstream to explore train ticket and head south. Jalan Alor, a 500-metre, open-air market
Chinatown. Sweet smoke wafts out of lined with street stalls and restaurants.
satay stalls where skewers of fish, chicken As we travel through the The strong scent of durian fruit is soon
and pork are on the grill, the sticky glaze countryside, there’s plenty to obliterated by the smoke of charcoal
of coconut sugar, tamarind paste and sustain us. The train pulls in at local grills, as countless skewers of chicken,
chilli delivering a hit of Thai flavours. stations at half-hour intervals and fish, pak choi and pork hit the flames.
Fresh pomegranate juice, squeezed vendors hop aboard selling trays of fried At another stall, steam billows from
over shaved ice, takes the edge off the rice, soft drinks and iced coffee. Later, a bamboo steamer laden with dim sum.
there are roasted nuts and sweet jackfruit. But resist these siren songs and head
Morning brings the town of Hat Yai, and straight for Wong Ah Wah. The star of
SEATING (T)ISSUES hawkers wander the aisles with platters Jalan Alor, you’ll find a range of Chinese
of fried chicken and trays of iced coffee. and Malay-style dishes (there’s even
There’s no reserved seating in Another few hours and we reach the Marmite-fried frog!), but it’s the spicy
Singapore’s hawker centres. To book border town of Padang Besar, where barbequed chicken wings that draw
a spot while you’re buying your bowl
I breeze through passport control and the crowds. Add a side of fried rice and
of noodles, the local etiquette is to
leave a packet of tissues, or a business
hop aboard the Malaysian ETS train that a cold beer, and you’ve got streetfood
“name card”, at your place. Wok ‘n’ Stroll will whisk me to Kuala Lumpur. Though heaven on a plate. Jalan Alor isn’t the
offer excellent foodie-focused walking the train is modern, it’s somewhat dull: only table in town, though. If you’re
tours in the city. no vendors wandering the carriages, only adventurous, find a foodie guide to take
woknstroll.com.sg a sad buffet car with pre-made meals on you down the backstreets.
plastic trays. I regret not saving a few “Most Malaysian dishes have their

108 TASTE JUNE 2019


T RAV EL

WHERE TO STAY You’ll be hard-pressed to find better


city views than those from the Dorsett
BANGKOK: ANANTARA Kuala Lumpur.
RIVERSIDE
This lush urban resort on the west
bank of the Chao Phraya River is set
amid acres of peaceful gardens, but
the hotel’s free shuttle boat quickly
connects you to river taxis and
Skytrain services. Their personalised
Streetwise Guru tours offer local
insight into street food and the
klong canals criss-crossing the city.
anantara.com

KUALA LUMPUR:
DORSETT KUALA LUMPUR
Located in Bukit Bintang, the
shopping and nightlife hub of Kuala
Lumpur, this modern hotel has a
great location with glorious city
views. The on-site restaurant offers
an extensive menu of local dishes,
but it’s also just a few minutes’ walk
to Jalan Alor. dorsetthotels.com

SINGAPORE: MSOCIAL
This 293-room boutique hotel
in trendy Robertson Quay boasts
rooms by Philippe Starck and
a breakfast robot (yes, seriously)
to flip your eggs in the morning.
millenniumhotels.com

roots in India and Indonesia,” explains sweetened with evaporated milk. Hipster redolent with turmeric, coriander and
Ganneesh Ramaa, owner of Destination baristas need not apply. curry leaf. At R2 each, they’re a steal.
Explore. “But Kuala Lumpur was built on The counterpoint to Chinatown is It’s my last taste of KL as I rush for my
the tin-mining industry, and the Chinese Brickfields, known as Little India in train heading south: onwards through
influence is strong thanks to the miners the brochures, though not by the locals. the endless green of rubber and palm
and traders who arrived in the 1800s.” Here, Bollywood tunes blast from fabric plantations and, after a wait in Gemas,
At Restoran Win Heng Seng, I join the KTM Shuttle 41 to the border.
the locals queuing for plates of delicious
char kuah tiao: rice noodles tossed with
“A snack of steamed The next morning finds
cockles, shrimp, spring onion, bean sprouts
buns filled with pork me tramping the steamy
and the kitchen’s secret soya sauce.
and taro keep me streets of Singapore’s Joo Chiat
In Chinatown proper, most visitors district. With its quaint alleyways and
wander along touristy Petaling Street,
going as I collect historic shophouses (the local term
but the real foodie action is a few blocks
my train ticket” for shops that once had living spaces
over in Madras Street. Despite the name, above them), this is Singapore’s largest
this unassuming alleyway is a hotspot for architecture conservation district, but
Chinese and Malay plates. and spice shops, with restaurants and I’ve come here to sample one of the
Start with fragrant curry laksa, canteens serving fragrant dhal, along city’s culinary classics.
a staple breakfast dish for many locals. with dosa and paratha. I stop in at a Kway Guan Huat first opened its doors
If you’re hungry, add a plate of chee simple café for the typical Brickfields in 1938 and is widely regarded as the
cheong fun, broad rice noodles served cold snack, a cup of sweet “pulled tea” or finest popiah maker in the city. While
and topped with a sauce of sweet soya teh tarik (black tea sweetened with foamy the dough for popiah – an Asian burrito,
and dried shrimp. I also join the locals condensed milk) and a plate of vegetarian some call it – is simple, the skill is in
and drink a mug of strong black coffee curry puffs filled with sweet potato cooking it in a searing hot popiah pan.

TASTE JUNE 2019 109


T R AVEL

Clockwise from above left: You’ll find everything from malodorous durian to steaming dim sum baskets in Kuala Lumpur’s Jalan Alor; breakfast with the locals in Singapore’s
Tekka market; Kway Guan Huat dishes up the finest popiah in Singapore.

As he deftly flattens and flips the serviced hawker centres and, while Local knowledge, an adventurous
popiah “skins”, Michael Ker, the third they are more formal than Bangkok’s palate and a hungry stomach. That’s all
generation of his family in the popiah colourful rickshaw kitchens, they remain you need to soak up the spicy street food
trade, explains. “A good popiah must authentic and affordable. of southeast Asia. And I can’t think of
be soft, but it mustn’t break too easily.” At the Tiong Bahru hawker centre a better way to do it than by train. W
The skin needs strength to hold a delicious I seek out Hong Heng, recipient of a
parcel of fillings: turnip, scallop, ground Michelin Bib Gourmand award, which Richard Holmes is a freelance food and travel writer.
peanuts, prawn and crab. Topped with Michelin gives to “good restaurants that Find him at onanotherplane.com and @richardhct
offer value for money”. Here, the hokkien
mee – fried noodles in slow-simmered
YOUR TRAVEL PLANNER
prawn broth with seafood – is yours for
“Don’t miss the shui less than R50. Also don’t miss the shui
kueh – a steamed kueh (water cake), a steamed rice cake
GETTING THERE: Cathay Pacific flies
rice cake topped topped with spicy preserved radish. Jian
daily from Johannesburg to Hong
with spicy preserved Bo has been turning them out since 1958.
Kong, with multiple connections
radish” The next day, the murtabak – folded
to Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and
Singapore. cathaypacific.com
flatbread stuffed with egg, onion and
chilli, then folded and refried – in Little
a sauce of lime, avo and soya, then India’s Tekka market is just as good. And VISAS: South African passport-
rolled, it quickly became my favourite over in Chinatown’s hawker centre, I eat holders don’t need visas for Thailand,
Singaporean dish. one nyonya too many. These Chinese- Malaysia or Singapore. Ensure your
Unlike in Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur, Malaysian rice dumplings of spicy passport has at least six months
you won’t find much food served on minced pork are wrapped in pandanus validity after departure date, and
the street in Singapore. In the 1980s, leaf, then steamed. The stickier the rice, carry hard copies of onward travel
the government moved street stalls into the better, the locals tell me. reservations (trains/flights).

110 TASTE JUNE 2019


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

CREAM OF THE CROP


Gone are the days when yoghurt was confined to the breakfast table – plain yoghurt is
now one of the most versatile things you can have in your fridge. We’re using it in curries,
soups, sauces, silky salad dressings, and with roasted stone fruit. Of course, nothing beats
a dollop of creamy yoghurt with your morning muesli. All Woolworths’ award-winning
yoghurts are preservative free – choose your favourite from fat-free, low-fat, full-cream and
double-cream yoghurts. There’s really something for everyone. woolworths.co.za
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT BIANCA STRYDOM

SERVING SUGGESTION Serve your choice of plain yoghurt and granola with
a quick ClemenGold marmalade. Peel and slice 3 ClemenGolds and place
in a saucepan with 50 g sugar, 1 cinnamon stick, 3 cardamom pods, 2 cloves
and 2 star anise. Simmer over a medium heat for 5 minutes or until golden
and sticky. Sprinkle with toasted coconut flakes.
TIPS AND
TECHNIQUES
FOR THE
MASTER COOK
EDITED BY LYNDA INGHAM-BROWN
PHOTOGRAPH ANDREA VAN DER SPUY PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY
FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE VAN ROOYEN

TH E M AG I C
OF BEANS
Stop thinking of beans as a last resort and embrace
their hidden potential. Think cassoulet, refried beans
or pasta e fagioli (an Italian pasta and bean soup).
They can be so much more than just a topping
for toast.
P R E P TALK

BEAN COUNT BLACK BEANS are popular in Latin


Which beans are best for slow-cooking? American cuisine and have a creamy texture
And as a vegan baking aid? Find out here. when cooked. They’re also beloved in Brazil,
where they’re used in feijoada, a pork-and-
bean stew. They can also be used to replace
eggs in vegan baking. After they’ve been
cooked, the broth can be used to make
soup or to colour other dishes.
RED SPECKLED BEANS
are also known as SUGAR
BEANS and are probably
the ones you’re most
familiar with. Use them
in soups or salads or add
to stews to bulk them

PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREA VAN DER SPUY PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT CLAIRE VAN ROOYEN EXTRA SOURCES BONAPPETIT.COM, FOOD52.COM
up. They’re an excellent
source of protein and fibre.

RED ADZUKI BEANS, also called ADUKI or


AZUKI beans, are most commonly cooked
with sugar and mashed into a paste for use
in many popular Asian desserts. They have
thin skins that often burst while cooking
so aren’t a good match for soups and stews.

BLACK-EYED BEANS are also


known as COW PEAS and are
popular in African, Indian, Chinese
and Asian cooking. They can be
eaten whole or made into a paste
to thicken sauces. In the southern
United States they’re used in a
dish called Hoppin’ John, which BORLOTTI BEANS are also known as
consists of black-eyed beans, rice, ROMAN BEANS in other parts of the world.
bacon and onion. It’s traditionally They were first cultivated in Colombia but
eaten on New Year’s Day to ensure the bean we know was grown in Italy to
a prosperous year ahead. have a slightly thicker skin. They’re best
in soup and purées as they soften easily.

TASTE JUNE 2019


PREP TAL K

Now’s the time to add aromatics.


Onions, herbs, chilli, whatever you like.
Warning: don’t add salt or acidic ingredients
such as tomatoes yet, as they may
toughen the beans’ skins. Add them when
the beans are almost finished cooking.

MI-SO HAPPY
Cook, partially covered, until the
(SEE PAGE 73)
beans are tender. You can also season
them at this stage. Taste the broth rather Chances are you’ve seen
than the beans to check the seasoning miso paste, or heard of it, but
as they take a while to absorb the salt. aren’t quite sure what it is, or
Plus, you can use the broth (the technical how to use it. It’s a traditional
term is potlikker – “pot liquor” geddit?) for Japanese seasoning made
other things such as stock, for braising by fermenting soya beans
ON THE BOIL or for poaching. If you’re feeling really with koji (a type of fungus)
adventurous, use it to marinate vegetables and salt. Seaweed and rice is
Cook dried beans from scratch with a few simple or tofu. It also freezes well. also sometimes added. The
tips and you’ll make a humble ingredient shine resulting paste is used for
If you’re not using them immediately, making sauces and spreads,
Soak your beans. Opinions differ but allow the beans to cool completely in pickling meat and vegetables
soaking the beans overnight will reduce the liquid. They’ll keep in the fridge for and mixing with dashi (a
cooking time significantly. Cover your about five days and freeze very well. simple broth or stock usually
beans with cold water and chill overnight. made with fish and kelp
flavoured with bonito flakes)
FORGOTTEN TO SOAK? If you’ve
to make miso soup. There are
Transfer the beans to a heavy- decided you need to eat those beans
many different types, and it
based saucepan and top with water. tonight, you can hack the soaking process.
is considered an important
Make sure they’re well covered, there Place the beans in a saucepan, cover with
base of Japanese cuisine.
isn’t a specific ratio of beans to water. lots of water and bring to a boil. Reduce
It can also be used in sweet
Bring to a simmer (don’t boil as they the heat and simmer for a few minutes.
dishes such as mochi, or
might break apart) and skim off any Remove from the heat, cover and allow
Japanese rice cakes. Get to
foam that rises to the surface. to stand for an hour.
know it, you won’t be sorry.

butter 1 T 2 Heat the oil in a pan and fry the tortilla


vegetable oil 1 cup, for frying strips in batches until crispy. Drain on
tortillas 2, cut into strips kitchen paper. 3 Rub the chicken thighs
free-range chicken thighs 4 with the spice mix. Heat the olive oil
Woolworths fajita spice mix 2 t in a large heavy-based saucepan and
olive oil 1 T brown the chicken. Add the stock and
Woolworths organic chicken stock 4 cups oregano and bring to the boil. 4 Reduce
dried oregano 1 T the heat to a simmer and cook for 25–30
SOPA AZTECA (MEXICAN Woolworths black beans in brine minutes, or until the chicken is cooked
TORTILLA SOUP) 1 x 400 g can, rinsed and drained through. Remove the chicken and shred,
ILLUSTRATIONS ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

limes 3 discarding the skin and bones. 5 Return


Serves 2 coriander 30 g the chicken to the saucepan with the
EASY crème fraîche, for serving black beans and corn kernels and simmer
GREAT VALUE Tabasco sauce, for serving over a low heat for 5 minutes. Season
Preparation: 10 minutes to taste with the juice of 1 or 2 limes.
Cooking: 30 minutes 1 Rub the corn with butter and grill until 6 Serve topped with the tortilla strips,
cooked through and charred. Allow to coriander, large dollops of crème fraîche,
corn on the cob 1 cool, slice off the kernels and set aside. Tabasco and lime wedges on the side.

TASTE JUNE 2019 115


E AT I N FOR L ESS

PHOTOGRAPHS
SADIQAH ASSUR-ISMAIL
RECIPES AND PRODUCTION
HANNAH LEWRY
FOOD ASSISTANT
KATE FERREIRA

WHAT’S FOR
DINNER?
If you’re looking
for a genius food
hack, you’ll find it in
the freezer section.
Potato rösti as a pie
topping, Tin Roof
ice cream in a baked
pudding, pimped-up
risotto, fish curry –
all in the time it takes
to press “defrost”

TASTE JUNE 2019 117


EAT I N FOR L ESS

ADD A
MEATY EXTRA

Need more oomph? Fry


up Woolies’ chorizo pork
sausages, slice and add
to the risotto. They’re
flavoured with ppaprika,
p
garlic and a hint of chilli.

Creamy mushroom
risotto with lemony kale
Heat 1 x 600 g pack Woolworths frozen
mushroom risotto according to package
instructions. Add 1 x 250 g sachet
Woolworths precooked barley and stir
through until warm. Thinly slice 1 x 30 g
Woolworths snack pack roasted almonds.
Place in a small pan with 4 T olive oil and
toast for 1–2 minutes, then remove the
nuts and oil from the pan and place in
a bowl. Cook 40 g chopped kale in a pan
over a high heat, squeeze over the juice
of ½ lemon and cook until wilted. Whip
½ cup cream until stiff peaks form, then
fold through the risotto just before
serving. Season to taste, drizzle with the
crunchy almonds and oil and top with
the kale. Serve immediately. Serves 4

MEAT-FREE WINE: Woolworths
Ken Forrester Grenache 2017

118 TASTE JUNE 2019


EAT I N FOR LE SS

Pepper steak-and-sweet onion rösti pie ADD A


DESSERT
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Bake 1 x 500 g packet Woolworths frozen röstis for 15 minutes. Cut
2–3 red onions into chunks, then fry in a large pan over a medium heat with 100 g butter, 2 T olive Woolies’ chocolate self-
oil, 10 g fresh thyme and 4 cloves crushed garlic until just tender. Slice 1 x 750 g rib-eye steak very saucing pudding mix is
thinly and fry in batches for 1–2 minutes in 2 T olive oil. Season to taste and add to the onions. the perfect ending. It’s
Add 1 x 400 ml sachet Woolworths gravy and ½ cup water, then simmer for 45 minutes. Rest in the made using UTZ Certified
pan for 15 minutes. Season to taste, then transfer to an ovenproof dish and top with the parbaked chocolate and all you
röstis. Bake for 20–25 minutes, or until bubbling and golden. Serves 4 • WINE: Woolworths Neil need to add is an egg,
Ellis Groenkloof Shiraz 2017 butter and milk.

TASTE JUNE 2019 119


E AT I N FOR L ESS

ADD A MAIN

Offset the richness of


this pudding with a
wholesome butternut-
and-chickpea soup, which
has a mild hint of chilli,
topped with crunchy
caramelised onion and
Cheddar croutons.

Baked ice-cream
croissant pudding
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease a 23 x 30 cm rectangular baking
dish liberally with butter. Melt 1 litre Woolworths Tin Roof ice cream
in the microwave. Whisk together with 4 free-range eggs, 100 g dark
brown sugar and ½ cup water until well combined. Halve 6 Woolworths
bakery almond croissants and spread butter on the insides. Arrange
the bottom halves in the baking dish, then pour over the ice-cream
mixture ensuring they’re covered, then add the tops of the croissants,
pressing them in. Dot with 50 g butter, cover with tin foil and bake for
45 minutes, or until set. Remove the tin foil for last 10 minutes of baking.
Serve with the remaining ice cream. Serves 4 • WINE: Woolworths
Spier Natural Sweet White

120 TASTE JUNE 2019


EAT I N FOR LE SS

Easy tomato-
hake curry
Fry 2 thinly sliced large red
onions in 2 T olive oil in an
ovenproof pan over a low
heat until softened. Add
100 g butter, 2 t mild curry
powder, 1 t coriander seeds,
1 t cumin seeds and 2 sprigs
curry leaves and fry for
1 minute. Add the garlic,
ginger and chilli from
Woolworths prepared garlic,
ginger, chilli and turmeric
tub. Fry for a further minute
over a medium heat until
fragrant. Add 1 x 400 g can
diced tomatoes. Fill the can
with water and add to the
same pan. Simmer for 20
minutes. Meanwhile, preheat
the grill. Grease a baking tray
and arrange 1 x 600 g box
Woolworths frozen hake fillets
on the tray, season and grill for
5–7 minutes. Carefully arrange
the fillets in the curry sauce
in the pan, then grill for 3–5
minutes, or until bubbling.
Serve hot, topped with chilli.
Serves 4 CARB-CONSCIOUS,
FAT-CONSCIOUS, HEALTH-

CONSCIOUS WINE: Villiera
Jasmine White 2018

ADD A SIDE

Woolies’ fresh butter rotis


are just the thing to mop
up all that delicious sauce.
Made according to an
authentic recipe, simply
heat them in a pan until
puffed up and crisp
crisp.

TASTE JUNE 2019 121


EAT IN FOR L ESS

ADD A SIDE

Crispy French fries are the


perfect side dish. Bake
in the oven or fry until
crunchy – and there’s no
need to defrost them first.

Crumbed chicken
and pea pesto gyros
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Bake 2 x 400 g packs Woolworths
frozen crispy chicken breast strips for 15 minutes, or until
lightly golden and cooked through. Meanwhile, cook 500 g
Woolworths frozen petit-pois until tender, then blend with
2 T olive oil, the zest of ½ lemon, the juice of 1 lemon and sea
salt to taste until smooth. Serve the chicken and pea pesto
in 2 halved and toasted Woolworths Mediterranean flatbreads
or pita breads, with a dollop of plain yoghurt and Woolworths’
pickled red onions. Serves 4 HEALTH-CONSCIOUS • WINE:
Woolworths Simonsig Unwooded Chenin Blanc 2018

122 TASTE JUNE 2019


A D V E R T I S I N G P R O M O T I O N

BOWLS OF LOVE
Soup weather is finally here. And Woolworths offers such a variety of long-life soups that you
never need to go without a steaming bowl to warm the belly. With no added preservatives
and plenty of vegetarian, vegan and low-fat options, there’s something to suit every lifestyle.
Opt for chunky veg soup, which is chockful of veggies and vegan to boot, or heat up creamy
butternut soup, which has a hint of spice. Or indulge in brand-new roasted tomato and basil
soup, which is made in small batches with a special roasted spice blend, or go for new
hearty beef-and-lentil soup. The best part is that you can keep a stash in your pantry
(or desk drawer) for when the craving strikes. woolworths.co.za

SERVING SUGGESTIONS: Butternut soup: Add a drizzle of


olive oil, roast butternut wedges and toasted pumpkin seeds.
Beef-and-lentil soup: Serve with garlic-and-parsley croutons
and chopped Italian parsley. Chunky veg soup: Garnish with
deep-fried basil and serve with thinly sliced toasted Rustica
bread with roast garlic. Roasted tomato-and-basil soup:
Drizzle with olive oil and cream, and serve with blistered
cherry tomatoes and deep-fried basil.
PHOTOGRAPH JAN RAS PRODUCTION JACQUELINE BURGESS FOOD ASSISTANT BIANCA STRYDOM
M EA L P LANNE R

What’s cooking?
Stumped by what to cook? Follow Abigail Donnelly’s suggestions and you'll nail
a vegetarian dinner, Father’s Day lunch and an Asian feast, no problem

VEGETARIAN DINNER FATHER’S DAY LUNCH ASIAN FEAST


Sweet potato soufflé pie, p 25 Roast tomato soup with Caprese toast, p 86 Chargrilled Asian-style brinjals, p 26
Sautéed greens with baby beetroot, p 78 Greek-style braised pork shoulder, p 70 Asian butternut-and-chicken soup, p 86
Baked ice-cream croissant pudding, p 120 Warm chocolate mousse, p 100 Mrs M’s marvellous kebabs, p 45

124 TASTE JUNE 2019


STARTERS AND LIGHT MEALS
INDEX Butternut noodle and carrot soup Pot au feu-inspired exotic
Chargrilled Asian-style brinjals with spinach-and-bacon salad 89 mushroom-and-sage chicken 70
with noodles 26 Caldo verde with ricotta and Roast tomato soup with Caprese toast 86
Cheat’s cheese-and-sweetcorn soufflé 42 garlic baked potatoes 89 Slow-cooked duck-leg ragù
Double-corn nachos 42 Creamy mushroom risotto with with pappardelle 70
Golden soup 78 lemony kale 118 Smoky paprika-and-tomato baked
Milk-poached carrot-and-turnip mash Crumbed chicken and pea barley and beans 72
with vino cotto-roasted butternut 28 pesto gyros 122
Parmesan-baked onions with beans and Easy tomato hake curry 121 DESSERTS AND BAKING
rustic ciabatta croutons 26 Greek-style braised pork shoulder with Baked ice-cream croissant pudding 120
Sautéed greens with baby beetroot 78 fennel-and-baby marrow salad 70 Cape brandy pudding 100
Sopa azteca (Mexican tortilla soup) 115 Impulse broad bean bunny 46 Cheat’s alfajores 34
Sweet potato soufflé pie with beetroot and Korma chicken cottage pie 78 ClemenGold pudding 102
walnut sauce 25 Leek-and-onion soup Double-chocolate rocky road 81
Three-cheese toastie in memory of Ron 54 with ricotta frittata 86 Orange-infused mini malva puddings 81
Mexican black bean soup with Pear-and-pecan pudding 100
MAIN MEALS chipotle charred corn 86 Roast pineapple with warm baked
Asian beef shortrib with miso pumpkin 73 Mrs M’s marvellous kebabs 45 sweet ricotta 100
Asian butternut-and-chicken soup Pan-fried prawns with Warm chocolate mousse 100
with prawn toast 86 sweetcorn purée 42
Baked fennel and leeks Pepper steak-and-sweet onion BEVERAGES
with gnocchi 25 rösti pie 119 The local negroni 49

CONVERSION CHART
250 ml = 1 cup 125 ml = ½ cup 65 ml = ¼ cup 15 ml = 1 tablespoon 45 ml = 3 tablespoons
190 ml = ¾ cup 85 ml = ¹⁄3 cup 5 ml = 1 teaspoon 30 ml = 2 tablespoons 60 ml = 4 tablespoons

COMPETITION TERMS AND CONDITIONS


The winners will be the first correct entries drawn after the closing date. In the event of the judges not being able to contact the selected winner
on contact details supplied, an alternative winner will be selected. The judges’decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into.
The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash. Employees of Woolworths, New Media and the prize sponsor company, their
families, agencies or any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. All details correct at time of going to print. Note that some
expenses may not be included in the prize. Visit taste.co.za for prize-specific information and terms and conditions. Entry is limited to South
African residents over the age of 18 Unless otherwise specified, the closing date for all giveaways and competitions in this issue is 23 June 2019.
Terms and conditions apply, see above.

* Woolworths products featured are subject to availability and may not be available at all stores. All prices include VAT and were correct at the time of going to press.
Offers available while stocks last. Not all products and ingredients featured are available from Woolworths. While all precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy
of information, neither the publisher and editor, nor New Media, can be held liable for any inaccuracies, injuries or damages that may arise.

126 TASTE JUNE 2019


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F I N AL TI D B I T

Q:

PRODUCTION HANNAH LEWRY FOOD ASSISTANT KATE FERREIRA


PORTRAIT JIM SHIREY PHOTOGRAPH MYBURGH DU PLESSIS

INTERVIEW KATHARINE POPE


What SA dish do
you cook in the USA?
A:  VEGETARIAN
LASAGNE
I use a lot of Cape Malay and South African
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE
SOUTH AFRICAN DISH?
Umngqusho (samp and beans cooked in
for children. My son and I are currently
involved in the production of a feature
animated movie. @zakesmda
Indian spices in my cooking. The dish my mixed masala) with Lesotho trout and
wife and kids enjoy most is vegetarian theepe or imbuya (wild spinach). Zakes Mda’s latest book, The Zulus of New York
lasagne. What makes it South African is (Penguin Random House), based on the true story
that, in addition to the pasta, mozzarella WHAT DO YOU DREAM OF DOING of Farini’s Friendly Zulus, is on sale now.
and sauce, it contains what’s known in NEXT? I don’t dream of doing things;
the townships as the “seven colours” – I do them. I have shifted my focus from
tomatoes, spinach, veggie mince crumble, writing novels for adults to writing stories
pumpkin, mashed potatoes, onion, and
beetroot. Obviously this kind of lasagne
is my invention, part of the fusion that
I often make using ingredients from
different culinary cultures.

Zakes Mda,
award-winning
South African
novelist and
playwright,
is based in
Ohio, USA.

128
OGILVY SA 12491/E

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