Académique Documents
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Maintenance
10
Fluids
Working on a level surface and with the and surrounding area with a tissue to
engine cold, place the scooter on its prevent dirt falling into the crankcase
centre stand (if fitted), otherwise get a when the plug is removed.
helper to hold the scooter upright. If the Unscrew the plug and wipe the
scooter is not level the oil level reading whole of the dipstick with a clean tissue
will be incorrect. or cloth.
If the engine has just been running, You may see that there are upper
wait 5 minutes for the oil to settle to the and lower level markers, as in Fig 6 –
bottom of the engine. the upper level is where the ‘XXXX’ area
If the scooter has an engine oil level begins and the lower level is where it
window – this will be set into the side of ends – or your scooter’s dipstick may
the engine, near to the bottom – use it just have straightforward marks for
to check the oil level Fig 3. maximum and minimum.
The oil level needs to be at, or just If you didn’t wipe the dipstick
below, the upper level marker. before putting it back in the crankcase
If the crankcase has no window, you’ll get a false reading, because oil
then the oil level check is performed via is splashed over the dipstick while the
a dipstick fitted on the end of the engine engine is running.
oil filler plug (Fig 4). Put the plug back into the
Clean the crankcase filler plug crankcase, but don’t screw it in (unless
instructed to do so by the user’s
manual), and then remove it again. You
should now be able to see the level of
the oil on the markers.
If the oil level is halfway between the
markers or lower, ie, towards the lower
level marker, or you cannot see any oil
at all, then add oil as required via the
crankcase filler hole, using a funnel if
necessary.
Fig 4. Typical position of oil filler plug/
dipstick.
If you can’t see oil in the window, or
if the oil level is below the lower marker,
don’t run the engine until the cause
of the low oil level is known and the
situation remedied.
When topping up add oil slowly,
repeatedly checking the level, until the
required level is reached.
Note: Too much oil can cause as
much damage to the engine as too little.
Fig 5. Typical dipstick. Replace the crankcase filler plug,
but don’t over-tighten; finger-tight is
enough.
Ride the scooter for about ten
minutes, and then recheck the oil level
once the engine has cooled. Top up
with more oil if needed.
Fig 6. Dipstick oil level marker zone. Check for leaks.
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Fig 7. Typical location of engine oil drain Fig 9. Close-up of a typical oil drain plug
plug (arrowed). with a collar (arrowed) for a sealing ring.
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Fluids
the plug fractionally (so you’re sure Place a suitable container on the
you have the correct size socket). The ground beneath the plug to catch the
plug can be tight due to the constant draining oil. Loosen the drain plug using
changes of temperature it endures, so the socket spanner, and then undo it
be sure to use the correct size socket completely with your fingers (so you can
to avoid damaging it should your socket keep hold of the plug and stop it falling
slip. The drain plug may be no more into the oil container). There will usually
then a standard-looking bolt with a be a spring above the plug that holds
copper washer fitted, or, as shown in the oil filter in place; this does not need
Fig 9, may have a collar on which a to be removed unless you intend to
rubber, fibre or copper sealing ring may change or clean the filter.
be seated. To change the oil filter, pull out this
spring (if it does not fall out anyway) by
either hooking it with the end of your
finger or with a small screwdriver: it
shouldn’t be very tight. Note which way
up the spring fits, as it’ll need to be
refitted in the same fashion.
With the drain plug fully removed,
clean the area around the crankcase
filler plug and remove it; this will allow
air to enter the crankcase to aid oil
drainage.
Leave the oil to drain for at least
10-15 minutes, to allow as much of the
old oil to escape as possible.
Wipe and examine the drain plug
for damage, replace the copper washer
(or examine the rubber seal for damage,
and replace if necessary).
When draining has finished, wipe
around the drain hole, replace the filter
(if removed), reinsert the spring (with a
slight rotating motion, making sure it’s
the correct way up); then replace the
drain plug and tighten. (Refer to chapter
Fig 10. Oil draining. 4 for torque settings.)
Fig 11. Typical oil filter, spring and drain plug in correct order.
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Fig 14. Reservoir top cover plate. Fig 16. Rubber diaphragm.
Fig 15. Plastic seal (may not be fitted). Fig 17. Topping up brake fluid.
Ensure the reservoir is horizontal handlebar cowling to see the fluid level.
so the reading is accurate. There may If the brake fluid isn’t clear, light
be maximum and minimum markers gold, or bronze in colour, but dark
in the window (refer to the scooter’s brown or black, then renew it by
handbook). If the window has no bleeding (see next section).
markers then the window itself is used, If the brake fluid is clean but near
in that the top of the window is the the low level mark, top it up. Wipe the
maximum fluid level and the bottom is top cover plate with a clean cloth to
the minimum fluid level. stop dirt or grit getting into the reservoir.
In Fig 12 we can see that it’s Caution! It’s imperative that you don’t
possible to check the reservoir level introduce dirt/grit into the reservoir,
without removing the handlebar as this will cause damage to internal
cowling. components of the hydrailic braking
In Fig 13 we’ve had to remove the system and affect braking performance.
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Caring for your scooter
position, apply pressure to the system New oil (grade and quantity as specified
using the brake lever by pulling it on two in the scooter’s handbook)
or three times, and then hold it in the Spanners
‘on’ position. With the brake lever still Socket set
held on, partially open the bleed valve Container to collect old oil in
to allow brake fluid to be expelled into
the plastic tube. As this happens you Transmission oil is used to lubricate the
will feel the brake lever move toward the gears and the final drive shaft in the rear
handlebar. As the lever approaches the hub. On most scooters the oil can be
end of its travel, close the bleed valve. changed without having to remove the
Then release the brake lever. transmission belt cover.
Note: The bleed valve should With the scooter on its centre
be loosened only slightly in order for stand locate both the filler plug and the
brake fluid to be expelled when under drain plug. The drain plug will be on the
pressure. Do not fully remove the bleed underside of the transmission case at
valve! the lowest point, while the level plug will
Check the fluid level in the brake be on the side or end of the case in a
reservoir, topping up with fresh brake somewhat higher position.
fluid as necessary. The amount of oil required may be
Repeat this process until the brake marked on either the front or rear of the
fluid coming out of the tube is clean and transmission cover. Most scooters take
contains no air bubbles. about 0.12 litres (4.22 fl oz), but check
When finished, check the brake fluid the scooter’s handbook.
level in the reservoir. To change the oil, put a container
Ensure that the bleed valve is under the drain plug and remove it,
closed. Take particular care not to having first cleaned the plug and its
over-tighten the bleed valve: it’s very surrounding area. Wear latex gloves to
easy to strip the thread or break off the prevent the oil coming into contact with
nipple, leaving the threaded part in the your skin.
caliper body! Check that the reservoir Remove the filler plug to allow air
cover is correctly refitted. Check for to enter the transmission case and aid
leaks around the reservoir top and bleed oil drainage. Leave the oil to drain for at
valve. least 15 minutes, or as long as possible.
Pump the brake lever to ensure Replace the drain plug and add the
it’s working correctly. If its action feels correct amount of oil via the filler
soft, or ‘spongy,’ there may be air in the hole. The filler hole is also the oil level
system. In this case continue to bleed
the brake system as before, checking
for air bubbles coming out of the tube.
Dispose of the used brake fluid
as it cannot be used again. Your local
recycling centre will have the correct
disposal facilities.
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indicator, so when oil flows back out of Fig 23. Coolant reservoir filler cap (DO NOT
the filler hole the oil level is correct. open when HOT!)
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Brakes
SECTION B: Brakes
Fig 28. Typical front brake actuating arm and 3: Replacing brake shoes
adjuster (arrowed). Caution! Dust from brake shoes can
be harmful if inhaled, so wear a face
mask when replacing brake shoes. It’s
also a good idea to wash the brake
drum assembly with clean water before
stripping it, to keep the dust down and
prevent dirt getting into the drum.
Fig 29. Typical back brake actuating arm In order to get access to the rear brake
and adjuster (arrowed). shoes on some scooters it’s advisable
to first remove the exhaust system.
Adjustment at wheel end of the However, before attempting to remove
brake cable the exhaust system, soak all fixing nuts
Required: and bolts with a proprietary penetrating
Spanner oil.
First, remove the stud nuts from
With the scooter on its centre stand, the exhaust manifold (this is at the
adjusting the brake (front or rear) is engine end of the exhaust system,
simply a matter of screwing the nut on where it is connected to the engine).
the end of the cable (or rod) inward. In Take care when doing this, though, as
effect this shortens the cable. Do not these nuts will have been subjected to
over-adjust, though, as this will cause lots of changes in temperature, which
the brake shoes to bind and overheat. makes them tend to rust onto the studs.
The brake lever or pedal should move Because of the position of the manifold,
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Fig 31. Typical upper and lower exhaust mounting bolts (arrowed).
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Brakes
Screwdriver
G-clamp
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Brakes
Fig 44. Front suspension ‘buffer.’ Fig 46. Front wheel spindle removal.
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Fig 49. Base of suspension leg, brake calliper and calliper retaining bolts (arrowed).
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Fig 50. New and old brake pads. Notice how the friction material has worn down on the old
pads. The groove (arrowed) on the new pads indicates the maximum depth to which the
pads can be worn before they must be renewed.
Fig 51. Piston (arrowed) partially protruding. Fig 52. Using an old pad to push the piston
back.
5: Replacing disc brake pads
Note: Dust from brake pads and shoes Selection of spanners
can be harmful if inhaled, so wear a face Pliers
mask when performing this procedure. G-clamp
It’s also a good idea to wash the brake
assembly with clean water before Caution! Do not operate the brake lever
stripping it, to keep the dust down. with the calliper disassembled.
To remove the caliper, first place
Front brake the scooter on its centre stand. Then
Required: remove the bolts holding the front brake
New brake pads calliper to the suspension leg (Fig 49).
Socket set With the bolts removed, you should
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Brakes
Fig 55. New brake pads correctly fitted in calliper body. Wear indicator grooves arowed.
a thin smear of copper grease to the shims. Caution! Do not contaminate the
metal back of the brake pads and friction faces of the pads.
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Brakes
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10
2 4
5
6
1
9 3
Fig 57. Front panel/underseat box removed. 1 Rocker cover. 2 Sparkplug cap. 3 Throttle
cable. 4 Throttle cable adjuster. 5 Idle speed adjuster. 6 Carburettor. 7 Carburettor jet. 8 Air
intake. 9 Fuel pipe. 10 Starter motor relay.
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Sparkplug
Examination
Carefully examine the sparkplug
electrode and insulator area closely:
its appearance should be similar to the
sparkplug examples shown in Figs 61a
& 61b.
There should be no damage to
Fig 58. Typical sparkplug connector cap the ceramic insulator surrounding the
position (arrowed). centre electrode. Nor should the area
be covered with thick black carbon as in
Fig 62 (indicating an over-rich fuel mix).
Oil fouling, as in Fig 63 indicates
significant engine wear (accompanied
by high engine oil consumption), or
a faulty oil/fuel mix on a two-stroke
scooter.
Examine the washer attached to the
plug thread, this should be undamaged.
If you find damage, renew the sparkplug
as the washer cannot be removed, and
you won’t get the good seal with the
cylinder head that is needed, leading to
Fig 59. Typical sparkplug connector cap.
a loss of power.
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36
Sparkplug
significant force is applied, necessitating from the cylinder head, which will lead
an expensive repair. to a costly repair!
When you’re satisfied the sparkplug Replace the plug cap, making sure
is screwing in correctly, tighten with the it’s not loose on the sparkplug or on the
socket arm, but do not over-tighten sparkplug (HT) lead (wire). Also, ensure
(refer to the torque settings in chapter that there are no sharp kinks in the lead
4). If you’re not using a torque wrench, (wire) itself.
when you feel the sparkplug is fully Before refitting any panels, it’s a
‘home,’ turn the socket arm another good idea to start the engine to ensure
6-7mm (1⁄4in) and no more. Over- you have correctly fitted both the plug
tightening will strip the sparkplug thread and plug lead.
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Caring for your scooter
1: Inspection
Required:
New gasket
Socket set
Screwdriver
Spanners
cases the belt will have to be renewed. cover and the corresponding edge
Check and grease the teeth on the of the engine case with a soft cloth,
kickstart mechanism. Apply the grease, onto which WD40, or similar, has been
then wipe off with a clean cloth, leaving lightly sprayed. Caution! Do not allow
just a thin smear of lubricant. the cloth to come into contact with
Check and grease the teeth on the the drivebelt, and don’t spray directly
starter motor pinion. Also, ensure that onto the joint surfaces as you could
the pinion isn’t seized on the spindle. contaminate the drivebelt.
If possible, using a cotton bud, apply If all parts are in a satisfactory
a very small amount of grease to the condition, replace or renew the gasket
starter pinion shaft. and refit the cover.
Check the teeth on the outer Because the forward end of the
edge of the flywheel, and the kickstart starter motor pinion has to engage in
connecting lugs in the centre. a bearing on the inside of the cover,
If any of the flywheel teeth are ensure that any dowels in the casing
severely worn or broken, the flywheel and body line up with their respective
has to be renewed. holes.
Look for signs of oil emanating from Replace and tighten all bolts/
behind the flywheel, or from behind the screws.
clutch assembly, indicating that an oil Reconnect the air intake pipe and
seal has failed and needs to be replaced tighten the clip.
(beyond the scope of this book). Refit the kickstart lever (if removed)
Clean the mating surfaces of the ensuring that it’s replaced in the same
Fig 69. Behind the cover, the transmission mechanism. 1 starter motor pinion, 2 flywheel
(note missing vanes, which means it should be renewed), 3 automatic clutch.
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40
Exhaust
Locking screw
Baffle
Fig 74. Schematic showing a typical removable baffle. These are rare on modern scooters.
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SECTION F: Carburettor
adjustments
Required:
Screwdriver
Fig 75. Underseat viewing panel open, and we’re looking at the top of the carburettor.
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Carburettor adjustments
Required:
Spanners
Pliers
Fig 78. Typical throttle cable adjuster at
There are two adjusters on the throttle throttle twistgrip end.
cable: one under the underseat viewing
panel, and one under the throttle turn the other nut outward to tighten
twistgrip itself – both are secured by the cable if there’s too much play; or
locking nuts. The control cable needs to inwards if there’s not enough play.
be adjusted so that the throttle doesn’t Remember to tighten the locking nut
increase engine speed until it has turned when the cable is set correctly.
at least a 0.6cm (¼in).
Minor adjustments can be carried 3: Carburettor jet checking and
out at the throttle grip end of the cable. adjusting
Major adjustment is carried out at the Required:
carburettor end of the cable. Screwdriver
Whichever end of the cable you
are dealing with, undo the locking nut The setting and condition of the jet is
nearest the end of the cable, then essential to the correct running of the
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Caring for your scooter
44
Battery
SECTION G: Battery
Required:
Screwdriver
Voltage meter (multimeter)
Charging
Fig 81. Typical sealed battery. Note markings When charging the battery, first ensure
to identify negative (-) and positive (+)
that the correct amount of electrolyte is
terminals.
present, and top up if required. Place
As you pull it from its location, note the the battery in a well ventilated area so
position of the battery breather tube (if the fumes from it can disperse during
fitted), as this needs to go back in the charging; do not attempt to charge the
same place. battery whilst it is fitted in your scooter.
The charging voltage may seriously
Maintenance damage the entire scooter’s electrical
Caution! Do not attempt to open a system.
sealed battery; no maintenance is Only use a battery charger that
necessary other than keeping the is designed to charge a motorcycle
connections in good condition and battery of the correct voltage; on no
Fig 82. Battery connected to charger. Red cable to ‘+’ terminal, black connector to ‘-’
terminal.
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Battery
account use a car battery charger as Now connect the black wire to
this will destroy the battery plates and the (-) negative terminal, ensuring the
render the battery useless. terminal is clean and the cable fixing is
Do not turn on the charger until it tight.
is correctly set to the right voltage and Refit the securing straps or bracket
connected to the battery. to hold the battery.
Connect the charger’s red wire to You can check the scooter charging
the (+) positive terminal and the black system by putting the scooter on its
wire to the (-) negative terminal of the centre stand and connecting the voltage
battery. meter as described earlier. When you
Pay particular attention to the start the engine, the voltage meter
instructions that came with the battery should show a higher voltage as engine
charger, as it’s possible to damage the revs are increased, about 13.5-14.5
battery by overcharging it. volts for a 12-volt system. If there’s no
When the battery has fully charged, change in the voltage, then the charging
turn off the charger and disconnect the system needs expert examination,
battery. which is outside the scope of this
Refit the battery to the scooter handbook.
(remembering to push on the breather If you’ve followed all of the
pipe as it was on removal). instructions in this section and battery
Connect the red wire to the (+) condition has not improved, your only
positive terminal first, ensuring the option will be to renew it.
terminal is clean and the cable fixing is
tight.
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48
Lights
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Riding light
This is the light that is always on when
you’re riding. It may be fitted in the main
light assembly, or as a separate item.
If it’s in the main fitting, removing it will
be just a case of either a slight twist of
the holder to release it, or, if a rubber
Fig 87. Bulb in bulb holder. mounting, a gentle pull to release it from
the light assembly.
of the handlebar cowling itself, then you If the riding light is a separate unit, it
will have to remove the cowling. The will be a simple push-fit rubber mount,
cowling will be fixed from underneath by
screws or bolts.
Once you have removed the
cowling, you should now be able to see
the rear of the headlight unit.
Note: If the headlight bulb is a
halogen bulb, try not to handle it by the
glass, because it will discolour due to
the natural oils of your skin.
There are two types of fitting.
1) Bayonet: Pull back the rubber cover
to expose the holder. Twist the bulb
holder to remove it from from the
casing; the bulb is then removed by Fig 89. Typical riding light (always on when
turning it anti-clockwise. Refitting is the riding).
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Lights
Indicators (turn signal lights) Fig 91. Removing typical indicator lens.
Access to the bulb in the case of front
indicators is normally via a screw-
secured lens. If the indicator lenses are
not retained by screws, access to the
bulbs is achieved by removing the back
panel.
Rear indicators may be either
separate from the rear light assembly,
or part of it. If they’re separate, the
procedure for replacing the bulbs is
the same as for the front indicators.
If they’re part of a single cluster
incorporating the rear light, read on.
Rear light
There are three types of rear light
assembly: the brake/stop light is
included in the single assembly; the
brake/stop light is a separate unit; and
that which uses an LED (light emitting
diode) light unit.
If the rear and brake/stop lights are
in the same assembly, then access to
the bulbs is simply a case of unscrewing Fig 92. Lens removed, revealing bulb.
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52
Lights
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Fig 100. Underside of brakelight unit. Fig 101. LED (light emitting diode) unit.
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Tyres
SECTION J: Tyres
Fig 103. Analogue tyre pressure gauge (the black cap is a valve removal device).
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Fig 105. Tyre pressure readout here in psi (pounds per square inch).
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Tyres
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Body panels
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Caring for your scooter
use pegs, clamps or tape, for example, With any lacquer removed and the
or even make a former to help keep the panel dry, using 180 grade wet and
joint together. Whichever way you intend dry roughen around the crack on the
to hold it in position, have a dry run first. outside of the panel to a distance of
Mix the fibreglass resin as per the approximately two inches, to provide a
manufacturer’s instructions, apply the key for the body filler.
resin to the mesh, and then apply the Choose a filler that is suitable for
mesh to the inside of the panel over the use with plastics, filling all holes, cracks
crack, brushing down well and adding or ridges, and leaving the surface as
more resin if needed. Cover the crack close as possible to the correct profile.
by at least one inch each side. When Try to keep the use of filler to a minimum
the first section is dry, proceed to the as, once dry, it will take a lot of sanding
next, making sure that it all lines up to remove excess material. Using
correctly. Continue until all sections are increasingly fine grades of wet and
repaired and dry. dry (down to 800 grade) on a sanding
Now we need to prepare the block, sand the filler until you have the
exterior of the panel. I recommend that correct shape and thickness, and the
you rub down the paintwork by hand, surface is smooth to the touch. Wash
and not use any electric sanding tools the panel three or four times using fresh
(they can run away from you, and they clean water to make sure there’s no
also generate a lot of heat which can dust on it, and allow it to dry thoroughly.
cause problems with both the paint Finally, wipe the panel with white spirit
and the plastic). Using a fine grade wet or turpentine.
and dry paper go over the entire panel Note: When spraying, a few thin
to remove the lacquer and transfers coats will give a far better finish than
covering the existing paintwork, using one thick one. Spraying too close or too
clean water to wash the dust away. As slowly will, in all likelihood, lead to runs
the panel is invariably plastic, you will in the paint; so practise first!
get a better finish if, after repair, you Spray the panel with a proprietary
respray the whole of the panel. primer, working slowly from one end
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Body panels
63
two
Drive safely
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Other safety checks
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Caring for your scooter
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