CAT MANUAL 310

OPERATIONS AND TECHNICAL MANUAL

INTERVENTION MODEL M-310 TARGET/LAW-ENFORCEMENT

SECTION ONE
CAUTION AND WARNING STATEMENT

SECTION TWO
INTRODUCTION AND SPECIFICATIONS

SECTION THREE
OPERATOR MAINTENANCE

SECTION FOUR
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
SECTION ONE: CAUTION AND WARNING STATEMENTS

Caution Statements: These are statements that concern the safe operation of the weapon
system. Ignoring these statements and situations can hinder the safe operation of the
weapon. This may result in a weapon failure or other damage to the weapon.

Warning Statements: these are safety statements, that if ignored can cause severe injury
or death. These statements address the operation as well as inspection, and maintenance.

General Disclaimer: CheyTac Associates will not be responsible for the injury, death, or
damage to property resulting from either intentional, or accidental discharge of this
firearm, or from its function when used for purposes or subjected to treatment for which
it is not designed. CheyTac Associates will not honor claims involving this firearm which
resulted from careless or improper handling, unauthorized adjustments or parts
replacement, corrosion, neglect, or the use of ammunition other than original high quality
commercially manufactured ammunition in good condition, or any combination there of.

THE .408 CHEYTAC CARTRIDGE IS A HIGH PRESSURE CARTRIDGE.

NORMAL OPERATING PRESSURES ARE HIGHER THAN PRESSURES
NORMALLY GENERATED BY HIGH POWER RIFLE CATRIDGES.
Carefully read this instruction manual, which gives basic advice on the proper handling
and functioning of this rifle. Read this manual in its entirety prior to loading and firing
this rifle. The safety of yourself and others relies on your safe handling and the ability to
safely shoot this weapon. If you are unfamiliar with this firearm, or any firearms, see
professional instruction from trainers at CheyTac Associates, or NRA certified firearms
instructors.

Caution: Misfire Procedures: As your Intervention manufacturer, we would like to

bring your attention to something that is not widely discussed. The difference between a
misfire and a hang fire is defined as follows. Misfires occur on cartridges that
chamber freely and do not have a tight fit in the chamber. Misfires can occur because
of light primer strikes, poor quality ammunition, primers seated too deeply in the primer
pocket, damaged firing pin, ect. Hang Fires are described below. These are the misfire
procedures to follow.

STEP AWAY FROM THE RIFLE AND DO NOT STAND BEHIND THE RIFLE!

WAIT TWO (2) TO FIVE (5) MINUTES BEFORE MANIPULATING THE

RIFLE.

FROM THE LEFT SIDE OF YOUR RIFLE, REACH OVER THE RIFLE AND
SNAP THE BOLT OPEN WITH AUTHORITY.

PULL THE BOLT TO THE REAR AND EJECT THE MISFIRED ROUND.

Hang Fire Procedures: A hang fire occurs when a round is chambered that is very tight,
yet you are able to lock the bolt down. This happens when improperly loaded or badly
loaded ammunition is used. You must not attempt to open the bolt when a hang fire
occurs. The rifle will fire when this happens. The result can be fatal. When a hang fire
occurs, perform the following actions.

STEP AWAY FROM THE RIFLE, AND DO NOT STAND BEHIND THE RIFLE!

WAIT TWO (2) TO FIVE (5) MINUTES BEFORE MANIPULATING THE

RIFLE.

ONLY AFTER WAITING 2-5 MINUTES, TAKE A RUBBER, OR HARD

PLASTIC HAMMER , AND TAP THE SIDE OF THE RIFLE NEAR THE
TRIGGER AREA HARD UNTIL THE RIFLE FIRES, AGAIN DO NOT OPEN
THE BOLT UNDER ANY HANG FIRE CIRCUMSTANCES.

AFTER THE RIFLE FIRES, DO NOT TRY TO CHAMBER ANY ROUNDS OF

THE SAME TYPE UNTIL YOUR CASE OR SEATING PROBLEMS ARE
CORRECTED. CONTACT CHEYTAC ASSOCIATES IMMEDIATELY.

Essential Safety Instructions: These safety instructions apply to the M-310 rifle as well
as all other firearms. They apply to everyday firearms handling. The golden rule is do
not point your weapon at anything you are not willing to destroy. Know your weapon
and its capabilities, and your limitations.

Always treat every firearm as if it is loaded. Never pass or receive a firearm from
someone else before you physically inspect it to ensure it is clear of live rounds.
Physically inspect the chamber to ensure it is clear.

The rifle should be in the safe position when there is a round in the chamber and you
are not ready to fire the weapon. A good example of this is when you have loaded the
rifle, you have a target, but are waiting for the right conditions to shoot.

Control the muzzle of the weapon. Keep it pointed in a safe direction when moving or
repositioning the weapon.

The muzzle brake of the M-310 rifle vents gasses to the sides and to the rear while
firing. Ensure that the sides of the rifle are clear of debris and no one is standing within
six feet of the sides of the rifle. They may be injured from flying debris that is blown off
the ground when the weapon is fired.

Open the bolt of the rifle when you step away from it and you are waiting to shoot. Leave
the bolt open so that others may observe the safe condition of the rifle. With bolt open,
place the safety in the safe position.
↓Bolt Open
The .408 CheyTac M-310 rifle fires a bullet that is machined from solid metal. It is
capable of extreme penetration at extreme ranges. BE SURE OF YOUR BACKSTOP.
YOU MUST HAVE SUFFICIENT MATERIAL TO STOP THE PROJECTILE
WHEN IT PENETRATES PAST THE TARGET, OR ENOUGH RANGE FOR
THE PROJECRILE TO TUMBLE TO A STOP WITHOUT ENDANGERING
ANY PERSON, ANIMALE OR PROPERTY.

Ensure that the barrel is clear of any obstruction prior to firing. Any obstruction in
the barrel can cause the barrel to explode. This can cause serious injury or the loss of life
of the shooter or anyone in close proximity to the incident. Dangerous blockages can
occur in a barrel or in the muzzle brake when the weapon is dragged or dropped or used
in mud, sand, snow, or in the water.

Whenever possible, use another person, with a spotting scope to ensure that the
downrange impact area is clear of people or property. This is especially important when
shooting on other than established shooting ranges. The .408 CheyTac rifle is capable of
high precision shooting to 3000 yards. No range exists off of US military installations
that accommodates this capability. This means that individuals will be firing in non-range
open areas. It is essential to keep the downrange area clear and safe while shooting.

SECTION TWO INTRODUCTION AND SPECIFICATIONS

The Intervention M-310 is the premier civilian target/ law-enforcement rifle available
today. The M-310 is a single shot, bolt-action rifle chambered for the .408 CheyTac
cartridge. The hand manipulated bolt-action offers safe, and reliable operation.

All maintenance aspects of this weapon can be done by the owner/operator. There are
only two echelons of maintenance. These are the owner/operator, and the factory level.
The only maintenance operation that needs to be done at the factory level is catastrophic
failure investigations, or the replacement of major worn parts.

The .408 CheyTac M-310 is capable of high precision to ranges of 2500 yards and
further. To appreciate the capability and precision of this rifle it is recommended that the
owner/operator obtain proper training in extreme long range shooting techniques from
CheyTac Associates.

RIFLE WEGHTS AND SPECIFICATIONS

M-310 weight: 16 lbs.

Single shot, bolt-action operation
Barrel length: 30 inches
Barrel type, rifling and twist: Stainless steel fluted, 8 grooves 1:13”
Muzzle velocity: 419-gr./3030 fps, 305 gr. 3500 fps.
Total length; 50 ¾ inches
The M-310 is equipped with a Jewel trigger system, set at 3lbs. at the factory.
Fluted Barrel Scope Rail
↓ ↓

↑ ↑ ↑
Brake Bipod Cheek Rest

Stock Extension
↓

↑
Jewel Trigger and Safety

↓ Adjustable Cheek Rest

↑ Adjustable Stock Extensions

SECTION THREE OPERATOR MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS

First, a note about breaking in the barrel of the intervention M-310

A subject that has received more attention these past couple of years in the military, and
competition community is the process of breaking in a barrel. The benchrest shooting
community has always placed a great deal of emphasis on this matter. Years of using this
method in military training environments have shown the following positive benefits of
breaking in the barrel.

Longer barrel life.

A greater number of rounds that the rifle can fire without a noticeable loss in
precision. Lower barrel temperature during sustained fire.
Greater overall ease in cleaning, especially when removing copper fouling.

Following is the procedure for the break in process.

Thoroughly clean the barrel of your new rifle before shooting it for the first time.
After cleaning, take a patch, put a small amount of WD-40 on the patch, and make
one pass down the bore.

Fire one round out of the rifle.

Insert the bore guide and brush the bore out with shooters choice. Only 8-10 strokes
are needed in this process.

Run 3 or 4 dry patches through the bore to clean and dry it.

Put a few drops of Sweets 762 Copper Solvent on a patch, push this down the bore,
and remove the patch after one pass.

Allow the solvent to work for a couple of minutes.

Spray some WD-40 on a patch and push the patch down the bore to chase out the
sweet’s 762 and follow this patch with several dry ones.

Smear some JB bore cleaning compound on a patch and wrap this patch around the
jag. Push the rod down, but do not let the patch go all of the way through the barrel.
Scrub the rod back and forth in the barrel for 10-12 passes and push the patch out
of the end.

Spray WD-40 on a patch and push this patch through the bore. Repeat this 3 or 4
times until all of the gray JB is out of the bore.

Run dry patches through the bore until the bore is clean and dry.

Fire another round and repeat the above 10 steps.

It is recommended that you follow this single shot and clean process for the first thirty
rounds. I know it sounds like a long time and it is. After you have completed this process,
it is ok to put a target downrange and shoot five (5) round groups. Until you have 60
rounds out of the barrel, clean and JB the barrel very 5 round group. The long-term
results are well worth the work. You will also notice there will be much less copper
fouling in the barrel.

CLEANING THE INTERVENTION M-310 RIFLE

Here is a list of the recommended cleaning materials for maintaining and cleaning
precision rifles. It is recommended that you use a fishing tackle box and build a
maintenance kit for your rifle.

50 caliber-cleaning patches
Powder Solvent such as Shooters Choice or Hoppes #9.
Copper remover such as Sweet’s 7.62
7.62mm copper bore brush. Do not use the brush with Sweet’s, as it will ruin the brush.
Recommend using nylon bore brush with Sweet’s
Bore Guide, The use of a bore guide is recommended to protect the throat of the bore.
Erosion of the bore throat caused by bad alignment of the cleaning rod will severely
affect the accuracy of the rifle.
Bore Jag made of brass
Standard weapons cleaning (tooth) brush
Swabs or Q-tips
Rifle grease such as Tetra Gun grease, Shooters Choice grease, or Molly D grease.
A non-embedding bore cleaning compound such as J-B. This is a powdered diamond
abrasive cleaning compound, which comes as a paste that finishes the powder and copper
removal process and polishes the bore.

CAUTION; EXCEPTIONAL CARE MUST BE TAKEN TO ENSURE THAT THE

CROWN, OR END OF THE BARREL, IS NOT IN ANY WAY DAMAGED
DURING THE CLEANING PROCESS.

Detailed cleaning procedures are listed below for the most important components. These
are the barrel,(internal bore) and the bolt/ chamber. Other than these components,
cleaning of the rifle generally consists of brushing off the dirt and dust.

REMOVAL AND CLEANING OF THE MUZZEL BRAKE

A muzzle brake does much more than reduce the recoil of a gun system. The muzzle
brake on the intervention M-310 rifle is key to the accuracy of the rifle. Super precise
bore alignment is critical to the continued accuracy of the rifle.

CAUTION: WHEN THE MUZZEL BRAKE IS REMOVED, IT IS IMPORTANT

TO PROTECT THE CROWN OF THE BARREL, THE BEARING SURFACE
WHERE THE MUZZEL BRAKE RESTS AGAINST THE BARREL, AND THE
REAR OF THE MUZZEL BRAKE THAT MAKES CONTACT WITH THE
BARREL. DAMAGE HERE WILL CAUSE THESE CRITICAL SURFACES TO
GO OUT OF ALIGNMENT. THIS WILL AFFECT THE GROUPING ABILITY
OF THE RIFLE.
 ↓ Barrel Crown

Remove the muzzle brake by inserting a rod into the port on either side of the brake and
gently tapping in a counter-clockwise direction. The brake will come loose. Spin the
brake off by hand.

Clean the brake by either scrubbing the brake out with a plastic chamber brush, or by
soaking it in cleaning solvent, and then scrubbing it out with a chamber brush, or
toothbrush.

CAUTION: Avoid damaging the reverse cone shaped portion of the muzzle brake.
This is located in the brake nearest the exit port of the brake. The clearance on the
inside of this port between the port and the projectile is tight. Damaging the cone by
striking it, or allowing it to be damaged in such a way to make the cone go out of
round will cause the projectile to be disturbed as it passes through the cone. This
will induce a yaw into the projectile, adversely affecting the grouping ability of the
rifle.

The muzzle brake is reinstalled after cleaning by hand threading it on the barrel until it is
hand tight. Insert a rod into a side port and gently tap the rod, driving the brake in a clock
wise direction. This is all the tension that is required. Under gentle use situations, as on a
range, it is only necessary to keep the brake hand tight. This reduces wear and tear on the
brake.

Muzzle Brake

CLEANING THE BARREL. The M-310 rifle is capable of levels of precision at ranges
not previously obtained in the shooting world. One of the keys to that level of precision is
a quality and careful cleaning of the rifle barrel. The procedure in this manual was
initiated and tested to insure the rifle’s precision capability is upheld. It is critical to
follow these cleaning methods.

Insure the safety is in the safe position

Open the bolt, inspect the chamber for a live round, and remove the bolt from the rifle.

Remove the muzzle brake. The muzzle brake may remain in place while cleaning, but
due to the tight tolerances within the muzzle brake, severe damage to the cleaning
brush will result. Small pieces of brush wire will break and may be drawn back into
the bore. It is recommended that you remove the muzzle brake while cleaning the
bore of your rifle.

Insert a bore guide into the action of the rifle. Always clean from the chamber end of the
barrel.
Insert a cleaning rod with the bore brush attached into the bore guide. Soak the brush
with powder solvent (Shooters Choice). Now push the rod through the bore. The copper
of the bore brush will not harm the rifle’s bore. Scrub the bore with 20 or 30 passes
adding solvent to the brush every 10 passes or so. Allow the solvent to remain in the bore
about 10 minutes to attack the fouling the brush doesn’t reach.

CAUTION: DO NOT ALLOW ANY SOLVENT TO LEAK INTO THE

WEAPONS TRIGGER, AS IT WILL PROMOTE RUST.

Brush the bore again using the bore brush and powder solvent.

Using the rod with the bore jag attached, run patches with powder solvent through the
bore until it is relatively clean, and then dry the bore with another patch.

Saturate a patch with Sweet’s 7.62 and push the rod to within one inch of the crown, or
end of the bore. Fill the last 1” of the bore with Sweet’s 7.62 and pull the rod toward the
chamber. When you reach the throat, or end of the chamber, stop. Allow 10 to 20 minutes
for the Sweet’s 7.62 to chemically dissolve the copper deposits. This method allows for a
thick pasting of Sweet’s to build up in the badly fouled areas. Just pushing a wet patch
through the bore does not usually leave enough Sweet’s in the barrel.

Push the dirty patch out of the barrel along with the excess Sweet’s. The solvent will turn
blue after contact with copper. The Sweet’s that is excess can be recovered provided the
bore was absolutely cleaned of powder, and powder solvent. This Sweet’s is positive with
liquid copper. This positively charged Sweet’s attacks hardened copper in the bore much
more aggressively than clean Sweet’s.

Heavily accumulated copper fouling may be aggressively removed by using a copper, or

plastic wire brush and further scrubbing the Sweet’s copper remover through the bore.

After approximately 100to 400 rounds the bore should be cleaned with a non-embedding
bore cleaning compound such as “JB” Apply “JB” sparingly to a patch. Using a
scrubbing motion, run the patch through the bore about 10 to 15 times repeatedly. The
patch should become black.
Thoroughly clean the “JB” out of the bore using a rod, jag, patches, and either powder
solvent, WD-40, or carburetor cleaner. Then swab the bore using another patch. The
patch should look nearly the same coming out of the bore as it did going in.

The barrel shank is cleaned by wiping off the hard chrome plated portion of the shank
with a cloth and cleaning solvent. Wipe this dry when finished.

The barrel should be coated with a light oil to protect the steel between range shoots.
Prior to the next shooting event, dry patch the barrel with 3-5 clean and dry patches tp
remove the oil.

WARNING: ANY RESIDUE OF “JB” BORE CLEANING COMPOUND LEFT IN

THE BORE CAN SERIOUSLY DAMAGE THE BORE IF A BULLET IS FIRED
THOUGH IT.

CLEANING THE CHAMBER. Clean the chamber using a chamber brush, and powder
solvent. When a proper chamber brush is not available, a baby bottle brush makes a good
substitute. Dry the chamber using swabs or with patches wrapped around a clean chamber
brush. Thoroughly dry the chamber prior to shooting the rifle.

CLEANING THE BOLT. General cleaning of the bolt is done by scrubbing the bolt
locking lugs, and bolt body with a toothbrush, and powder solvent. Scrub the bolt face as
well with a toothbrush. Cartridge brass will build up on the bolt face. This makes
chambering cartridges difficult. Uneven brass buildup will affect the accuracy of the rifle.

In preparation for shooting, high-pressure grease, such as Moly grease should be applied
to the rear of the bolt locking lugs, and the contact surfaces of the rear-unlocking cam at
the rear of the bolt body

To remove the bolt from the chamber, simply depress the bolt release lever, located on
the left side of the chamber, while pulling the bolt to the rear.

↓ Bolt Release
SECTION FOUR: OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

OPERATING, AND SHOOTING THE M-310 RIFLE: Operating the M-310 rifle
consists of operating the safety, loading a cartridge into the chamber, firing a round,
clearing the rifle, and clearing malfunctions.

OPERATING THE SAFETY: The M-310 rifle uses a Jewell trigger, and safety. The
forward position is the fire position. The rear position is the safe position. The safety
switch will only move to the safe position with the weapon cocked. The rifle cocks on
unlocking the bolt. Once you lift the bolt on the rifle, you can place the safety in the safe
position.
↓ Safety

CHAMBERING A CARTRIDGE: As stated earlier, the safety can be placed in the

safe position once the bolt is opened. It is recommended safe practice that prior to loading
a live round, you open the bolt, place the safety in the safe position, and then continue
with the loading process. Chamber a round by grasping the bolt handle with the strong
hand, and push the bolt forward with steady pressure, locking down the bolt once forward
motion is stopped. At this point the rifle is loaded and should be on safe.

NOTE: THE TIPS OF THE .408 PROJECTILES ARE FINELY MACHINED.

AGGRESSIVE LOADING OF CARTRIDGES SHOULD BE AVOIDED TO KEEP
FROM DAMAGEING THE TIPS OF THE PROJECTILES

FIRING AND CLEARING THE RIFLE: Simply place the safety in the fire position,
and press the trigger until the rifle fires. This will occur at about 3 pounds of pressure on
the trigger. To reload another live cartridge after firing, grasp the bolt handle with the
strong hand and rotate the bolt up to unlock the bolt. Pull the bolt to the rear to eject the
spent cartridge. Once the bolt touches the bolt stop, place a live round in the chamber and
push the bolt forward to load another round.

Clearing the rifle is done to make the rifle completely safe. This may be when walking
away from the rifle, or prior to casing the rifle, prior to cleaning, or for any other reason
needed to make the rifle totally safe.

Open the bolt to either remove fired brass or to physically inspect the chamber for live
ammunition. PHYSICALLY INSPECT THE CHAMBER BY BOTH LOOKING
INTO THE CHAMBER, AND BY STICKING YOUR INDEX FINGER INTO THE
CHAMBER. This is very important when shooting at night.
Place the rifle on safe and close the bolt if you are casing the rifle. Leave the bolt open if
you are on a range, or around other shooters. This shows the other shooters that your rifle
is in a safe condition.

MALFUNCTIONS, STOPPAGES, AND IMMEDIATE ACTION PROCEDURES:

These are explanations, definitions, and procedures to understand and follow when
something goes wrong with your rifle. Be familiar with the different malfunctions
[refer to section 1 as you read this] and how to address those malfunctions and
stoppages. If you cannot clear or identify any problems with the rifle, contact
CheyTac Associates or THEIS for further guidance.

MALFUNCTIONS: Any failure of the rifle to operate satisfactorily. Defective

ammunition, or improper actions by the shooter are not considered malfunctions of the
rifle.

Failure to function freely; this is usually due to humane failure to maintain the weapon
correctly. This can be caused by excessive fouling, dirt, and lack of proper lubrication, or
over lubrication,{cold, or desert environments].

STOPPAGES: Stoppages are any interruption of the cycle of operation caused by firing
faulty ammunition, or faulty action of the rifle mechanism. Apply immediate action drills
as they are listed with the associated stoppages listed below.

TYPES OF STOPPAGES AND IMMEDIATE ACTION DRILLS:

FAILURE TO CHAMBER: A stoppage preventing the complete chambering of a

cartridge. The most common cause of this stoppage is damaged ammunition, or
incorrectly reloaded ammunition.

IMMEDIATE ACTION DRILL: You may or may not be able to pull the bolt to the
rear. If you encounter difficulty, place the rifle on safe and strike sharply against the bolt
handle with the palm of your hand, driving the bolt to the rear.

Pull the bolt fully to the rear, eject the cartridge, and immediately load the next round.
Inspect the failed cartridge when ready.

Foreign objects in the chamber, or on the bolt may also cause a failure to chamber. Check
the chamber and bolt for foreign objects when you eject the cartridge that failed to
chamber.

FAILURE TO LOCK OR UNLOCK: A stoppage preventing the bolt, or bolt locking

lugs from rotating in or out. As with a chambering failure, the most common cause of this
stoppage is damaged ammunition, or incorrectly reloaded ammunition.

IMMEDIATE ACTION DRILL: If the bolt does not lock down easily, do not force the
bolt into a locked position. However, if the bolt does lock down with some resistance, fire
the rifle as normal.
Having fired the rifle and the bolt will not easily unlock, use the palm of your hand and
strike upward on the bolt. If you still cannot unlock the bolt, allow the chamber to
become cool to the touch. Attempt to unlock the bolt again.

You may use a rubber mallet to drive the bolt upward if desired. Do not do this with too
much force, or you may damage the rifle. If you still cannot unlock the bolt, notify
CheyTac Associates, or THEIS for further action.

If you cannot unlock a live round, place the rifle on safe and contact CheyTac Associates,
or THEIS for further action.

Pull the bolt fully to the rear, eject the cartridge, and identify the problem before
continuing to shoot. Check the chamber and bolt for foreign objects when you eject the
cartridge that failed to chamber.

FAIL TO FIRE: A stoppage preventing the ignition of a live cartridge. The most
common cause of this stoppage is damaged ammunition, or incorrectly reloaded
ammunition. This can be caused by a rifle problem such as a broken firing pin, a hang
fire, or a misfire. Refer to section 1 warnings on hang fire procedures.

IMMEDIATE ACTION DRILL: If your shooting is of a time sensitive nature, such as

military, or law enforcement operation, immediately unlock the bolt and, eject the
cartridge, and reload another cartridge. Attempt to shoot the rifle.

If you are shooting for sport, or of a non-time sensitive nature, unlock the bolt, and eject
the unfired round. Attempt to identify the nature of the failure to fire.

If further attempts to shoot do not fire cartridges, clear the rifle, make the rifle safe, and
identify the nature of the failure. If you cannot identify the problem, contact CheyTac
Associates or THEIS.

A failure to fire may also be caused by foreign objects in the chamber, or on the bolt.
Check the chamber and bolt for foreign objects when you eject a cartridge that failed to
fire.

A failure to fire may also occur when the trigger group is dirty or corroded.

FAILURE TO EXTRACT: A stoppage preventing the extraction of the spent cartridge

from the chamber of the rifle. This stoppage may be caused by several problems. The
rifle may have a problem with a bad, or broken extractor. Ammunition may be a problem
in the case of reloaded ammunition. A hot loaded, or incorrectly loaded cartridge may
develop such high pressure as to cause the spent brass to separate in the chamber. This is
known as a case head separation, and a sign of dangerously high pressures

IMMEDIATE ACTION DRILL: If your rifle does not immediately extract expended
brass, immediately close the bolt and attempt to extract the brass again. If the brass does
not extract on a second attempt, make the rifle safe, and clear the rifle.

Determine if the brass is in one piece, or if the brass has separated. A case head
separation will probably extract the case head portion of the brass, however it may
remain in the chamber.
Brass that remains in the chamber may be removed by sliding a cleaning rod down the
bore from the muzzle brake end of the barrel. Once the tip of the rod has touched the
inside of the brass, tap the handle of the rod with the palm of your hand, or with a rubber
hammer. This should drive the brass out.

CASE HEAD SEPARATIONS: Case head separations are more difficult to deal with.
The only portion of the brass remaining in the chamber is the body of the brass. There is
nothing for the extractor to grab and pull out of the barrel, and nothing for a rod to tap
against. One method is to insert a ½” wooden rod into the brass from the chamber end.
The rod is lightly coated with epoxy cement. Allow the epoxy to cure, and then you will
be able to extract the remaining brass. Be careful not to get any epoxy inside the
chamber, or throat area.

It is recommended if you have a case head separation, that the rifle be sent to CheyTac
Associates, or THEIS to have the problem investigated. There are multiple causes for
case head separations that need to be identified before further shooting is recommended.

When cases fail to extract, and there is no case head separation, and the weapon
repeatedly fails to extract fired brass, return the rifle for repair.

FAILURE TO EJECT: A stoppage preventing the ejection of a live or fired cartridge. It

is assumed that the brass or live cartridge did extract from the chamber of the rifle.
Common causes of this type of stoppage are, damaged ejector, jammed ejector, broken
ejector spring, weak ejector spring, or an obstruction in the ejector port that prevents the
cartridge from being ejected through the port. Failures to eject are not hazardous to the
normal operation of the rifle. You may continue to shoot if it doesn’t bother you.

IMMEDIATE ACTION DRILL: Once you have noticed a failure to eject,

immediately look to see if the port is blocked. Once the port is verified as clear, reach
into the ejection port and extract the cartridge or brass manually.

When ready, make the rifle safe and clear the rifle. Remove the bolt, and inspect the
ejector to see if it may be stuck in the bolt face. This happens from time to time if brass
chips, or other foreign material becomes wedged between the ejector and the bolt face
body.

Use a punch, or other tool and attempt to depress the ejector deep into the bolt face. This
may clear the debris.

If further attempts to release the ejector do not work, you may drive out the retaining pin
on the bolt face that retains the ejector. If you choose not to do this, contact CheyTac
Associates, or THEIS for further assistance.