April 2007

A Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited publication for the Textile, Leather, Paper & Allied processing industries

Exactly your chemistry.

28th year of Publication

 Colour Chronicle
April 2007

Contents

Textile
Pantone and Clariant Partnership. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Lyocell Fiber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Leather
Sense the difference with Clariant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Pantone and Clariant Partnership. . . . 4 Leather Spring Summer 2008 Trends. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Paper
Emulsions for Paper application. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Clariant Consultancy Service Section. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

New Arrivals
Eganal PS Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Bactosol CO ip Liquid. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Ceraperm MD Plus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Sense the difference Inside View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

with Clariant. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Apparel & Fashion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Corporate Product Safety (CPS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Gleanings from Press . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

New Arrivals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Corporate Product Safety

(CPS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
 Colour Chronicle
April 2007

Pantone and Clariant Partner

to Advance Color Development for Textile Industry
New Tools, Technology and Services will
Increase Speed-to-Market and Reduce
Costs for Designers, Manufacturers and
Retailers
CARLSTADT, N.J. and MUTTENZ,
Switzerland – March 8, 2007 – Pantone,
Inc., the global authority on color and provider
of professional color standards for the design
industries, and the Textile Business of Clariant
International Ltd., one of the world's largest
textile colorant and chemical producers, today
announced a strategic partnership that will
turn textile color development into a vehicle for
increased productivity and revenue for the
fashion and home furnishings industries
worldwide.
This partnership pairs the trusted color and
trend expertise synonymous with the
PANTONE® Brand and Clariant's global
network of colorant and application technology
specialists. For businesses whose success
hinges on an efficient and accurate color
development workflow, the Pantone and
Clariant partnership will offer a “SMART”
solution that delivers a faster, more precise and
technically-sound end product anywhere in the
world.
“There is a great deal of synergy between
Pantone and Clariant that enables us to
dramatically improve the color development
process with a variety of new tools,
technologies and support services,” said Lisa
Herbert, executive vice president, Pantone, Inc.
“Pantone and Clariant share the same vision
for streamlining the color development
workflow so designers and retailers can expect
and achieve accurate color reproduction every
time. Through this partnership, we are now
able to provide tools and services for every
aspect of the design process from inspiration
through production, empowering our customers
to maintain the integrity of their creative
vision.”
development cycle. Our partnership with 2007, Pantone and Clariant will introduce new
Pantone offers designers, manufacturers and products and services that will enable users to
retailers a network with unparalleled skill in take advantage of technology and workflow
color development, communication and advancements on a global basis.
technology to expedite perfect color
coordination for new product lines on a global About Pantone, Inc.
basis.” Pantone, Inc. has been the world’s color
authority for more than 40 years, providing
This new partnership will connect the vast design professionals with products and
number of users of the PANTONE FASHION + services for the colorful exploration and
HOME Color System around the world with expression of creativity. Always a source for
Clariant's global network of technical color inspiration, Pantone now offers paint and
specialists and state-of-the-art colorants designer-inspired products and services for
technology. Together, the two companies will consumers. More information is available at
better service the world's textile industry,
which is increasingly challenged with www.pantone.com
specifying and executing color on a global
scale. The partners' combined capabilities will
improve the color matching and approval cycle,
potentially reducing color development times
and the associated management costs by 50%
or more.
As a result of this partnership, designers,
retailers and their vendors will have access to
the technical expertise, specifications and tools
that will enable them to accurately and
efficiently match any of the 1,925 colors in the
PANTONE FASHION + HOME Color System
anywhere in the world. Beginning in March

“Clariant's technical expertise makes us the

best company in the industry to provide true,
accurate matches to PANTONE Colors,” said
Peter Piringer, Head of Clariant's Textile,
Leather & Paper Division. “This means that
today's top name brands and retailers save
money and critical time in the color.

4 TEXTILE
Lyocell Fiber
Lyocell is a natural, man-made fiber produced in
an environment-friendly process from wood
pulp and has become popular in clothing
because it is absorbent and comfortable for
wear, especially in conditions of high humidity.
Lyocell was developed by Courtaulds Fibers
(now Acordis Cellulosic Fibers), an international
supplier of rayon. It entered the consumer
market in 1991. The properties and production
processes were unique enough for the Federal
Trade Commission to designate it as a separate
fiber group. The trade name for lyocell
produced by Acordis is Tencel®. Lenzing Fibers,
another major manufacturer of rayon, has also
entered the lyocell market. This product is
marketed as Lenzing lyocell. An improved fiber,
in terms of performance and properties, lyocell
is also friendly to the environment. Virtually all
of the chemicals used in the production process
are reclaimed. The resulting fiber, lyocell, is
both biodegradable and recyclable.
comfortable to wear. In fact, lyocell is more
absorbent than cotton and silk, but less so
than wool, linen, and rayon. It can take high
ironing temperatures, but like other cellulosics
will scorch, not melt, if burned, and is
susceptible to mildew and damage by
silverfish. Cellulosic fibers are not resilient,
which means they wrinkle. Lyocell has
moderate resiliency. It does not wrinkle as
badly as rayon, cotton, or linen.Also, slight
shrinkage is typical in lyocell garments.
Stability, overall, is similar to that of silk and
better than cotton or linen.
Lyocell has strength and durability. It is the
strongest cellulosic fiber when dry, even
stronger than cotton or linen and is stronger
than cotton when wet. Lyocell is much stronger
than rayon when wet. This property of high
wet strength usually determines the extent to
which fabrics can be machine washed
successfully.
Other desirable properties of lyocell are its
luster and soft drape which makes it an
aesthetically pleasing fiber. Since it is a
manufactured fiber, the diameter and length of
fibers can be varied. Lyocell can be made into
microfibers (very fine fibers), offering depth
and body to fabrics combined with luxurious
drape. Short staple length fibers give a cotton-
like look to fabrics. Long filament fibers are
successful in silk-like end uses. Lyocell blends
well with other fibers including wool, silk,
rayon, cotton, linen, nylon, and polyester. It
successfully takes many finishes, both
functional and those designed to achieve
different surface effects, and dyes easily.
Overall, lyocell is a versatile fiber with many
desirable properties.

Properties and Characteristics

Lyocell is a manufactured fiber, but it is not Physical Characteristics
synthetic. It is made from wood pulp harvested
from tree farms for this purpose. Because it is Details Tencel Viscose Cotton Polynosics
made from a plant material, it is cellulosic and Count (dtex) 1.4-1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7
possesses many properties of other cellulose
fibers, such as cotton, linen, ramie, and rayon - Dry Tenacity (CN/tex) 41 25 28 38
another manufactured but non-synthetic fiber. Dry Extension (%) 13 17 10 11
Wet Tenacity (CN/tex) 34 14 32 26
In many ways, lyocell is more similar to cotton
than it is to rayon. Like other cellulosic fibers, Wet Extension (%) 16 21 11 12
it is breathable, absorbent, and generally

TEXTILE 5

+Every kind of regenerated cellulosic fibre
shows a skin-core structure. The skin part
has an amorphous structure while the core
part shows a highly crystalline oriented
one. Their specific repartition inside the
Lyocell fibre leads to unique remarkable
properties called fibrillation.
+All regenerated cellulosic fibers (not cotton)
lose a part of their tensile strength in
water; this loss is significantly less for
Lyocell fibers.
Lyocell fibers – production process
As with conventionally manufactured cotton
fabric, there are many steps and processes
involved in production of Lyocell. The major
steps are:
1. creating a solvent solution from wood
pulp
2. spinning Lyocell fiber from the solvent
solution
3. washing Lyocell fiber to remove
solvents drying fiber and producing
yarns
4. drying fiber and producing yarns
Lyocell Fibers – Production Process
Wood pulp Amine Oxide
Mix
Dissolve
Filter Evaporate
Spin
Wash Purify
Finish
Dry
Crimp TENCEL
FIBRE
+Step 1 – Creating a solvent solution
from wood pulp
The manufacturing process for Lyocell is
based on the principle of direct solvent
spinning. The wood pulp solution is
produced in a straight salvation process by
dissolving wood pulp at high temperatures
6 TEXTILE
and pressures in a non-toxic organic solvent
solution of amine oxide, particularly N-
methylmorpholine N-oxide, which is
reclaimed and recycled in a “closed loop”
spinning process conserving energy and
water. Up to 99% of the solvent is
recovered and reused. The wood pulp can
come from a variety of sources, such as
wood chips or even large rolls of paper that
have been finely shredded, depending upon
the manufacture's technologies.
+Step 2 – Spinning Lyocell fiber from the
solvent solution
Before being formed into fibers, the fiber-
producing substances for all manufactured
fibers is in a thick liquid state. In the
spinning process this liquid is forced
through a spinneret. The clear viscous
resultant solution is filtered and extruded
into an aqueous bath of dilute amine oxide,
and coagulated into fiber form. This
process does not involve any direct
chemical reaction and the diluted amine
oxide is purified and reused.
+Step 3 – Washing Lyocell fiber to
remove solvents
The fiber is then washed before it is dried
and twisted or spun into yarns, which are
woven or knitted into fabrics or garments.
+Step 4 – Drying fiber and producing
yarns
When the filament dries or solidifies, it
forms what is called a continuous filament
fiber. Many continuous filaments of specific
thicknesses collected in a large bundle
called a “tow”. Strands of continuous
filament fibers are then twisted together to
form a continuous filament yarn, which is
then woven or knit.
Fibrillation
A unique property of Lyocell is that the fibers
“fibrillate” when wet and are mechanically
agitated. The fibrils peel off along the surface
of individual fibres when they are:
+ Swollen in water
+ Undergoing a mechanical stress in wet
state.
+ The fibres split into many small fibrils
attached to the base fibres.
+ Abrasion causes fibrils to break, one
break giving two fibrils.
New fashion looks
The high degree of fibrillation of Lyocell fibre
provides the basis for new fabrics exhibiting
+ different soft handle
+ the peach-skin effect
Colour Chronicle
April 2007
+ neppy appearance
+ Distressed "frosty" look ....
Constraints
On another hand if the fibrillation is not
properly controlled:
+ crease marks, greying may appear
+ recurrent fibrillation could spoil the
goods during consumer's washing
+ Pills would be entangled from badly
fibrillated fibres.
Effect of temperature and pH on
Fibrillation (Courtaulds Fibres
Chart)
10 950C,
9
8
pH 9.5
7
6
FI 5
4 135
3
2
1
0
Temp ( C)
0
4
20
pH
13
Addition of a lubricant is essential:
+ to overcome wet rigidity of Lyocell
fibres
+ to even the prefibrillation
+ to make the subsequent enzyme
treatment more effective
A full primary fibrillation is necessary to
prevent an excessive post fibrillation during
subsequent wet process´steps like dyeing so
the choice of the right lubricant employed at
the right dosage is important.
LYOCELL - POSSIBLE PROCESSING
ROUTES
I. PEACHSKIN EFFECT stable to washing
+ Open Width Preparation: including
desizing singeing*, scouring bleaching
(continuous machines)
+ Fibrillation on jet ( Air-jet-machine ):
Primary fibrillation of Fibres ends at
surface of the fabric
+ Enzymatic defibrillation ( Air-jet-
machine ): Removal of fibrillated
surface fibers
+ Dyeing, Pad Batch or Exhaust on jet:
Additionnal removal of fibrillated
surface fibres. Generation of secondary
fibrillation at fabric surface.
+ Treatment on tumbling machine with
softener: A Fine secondary fibrillation
formed by fibre splitting in exposed
areas takes place.
+ Finishing on Stenter.
* singeing may reduce the intensity of primary fibrillation.
 Colour Chronicle
April 2007
II. CLEAN SURFACE stable to washing LYOCELL FIBRES – ENZYMATIC DEFIBRILLATION
+ Open Width Preparation: including desizing singeing*, scouring Process
bleaching (continuous machines) It is important to control the temperature and pH to obtain optimum
+ Fibrillation on jet (Air-jet-machine): Primary fibrillation of Fibres effects. A buffered system is advisable.
ends at surface of the fabric
+ Enzymatic defibrillation (Air-jet-machine): Removal of fibrillated
surface fibers pH 5/6.5* 60°C 45 min 10 min
+ Dyeing, Pad Batch or Exhaust on jet: Additionnal removal of Sirrix 2UD.IN liq
fibrillated surface fibres. Generation of secondary fibrillation* at 1-2 g/l Imacol C2G.IN liq - Rinsing at 40°C twice
fabric surface. - Clean the filter

+ Check if: A second enzymatic defibrillation is necessary (selection 1 g/l Soda Ash
of reactive dyes, open fabric structure)
+ Finishing on Stenter. 0.5-1 g/l Humectol C h.c.

LYOCELL FIBRES – PROCESS FIBRILLATION Bactosol CA liq conc

0.8% to 1%

LR 5:1 to 10:1
95°C *pH 5/6.5 to ensure balance between fibre damage & desire effect.
60 min
2°C/min 2°C/min
After checking degree of defibrillation the enzyme is disactivated under
5 min
60°C 60°C alkaline conditions.
1-2 g/l Imacol C2G.IN liq
- rinsing
- neutralisation DYEING OF LYOCELL FIBRES
- clean filter
load the goods DRIMAREN / SANDOSPACE R Paste
+As described in the processing routes the primary fibrillation
0.5-1 g/l Humectol C could follow its course during the dyeing of goods in rope of
Check fibrillation effect garment form
3 g/l Soda ash or +Due to crosslinking behaviour certain type of bireactive dyes
2 ml/l NaOH (36°Bé)
reduce the fibrillation tendancy during dyeing. The working
conditions are also very important like, for example dyeing
temperature.

Drimaren K / Drimaren CL
Due to the lower dyeing temperature, to the excellent washing off
properties of these two families of dyes, the dyeing conditions are mild
and lead to reproducible desired effects.

LR: 6:1 to 10:1

Imacol C2G.IN liq

60°C 20´/30´ 20´/30´ 20´to 30´

Salt Soda ash

Drimagen E2R (1-2%)
Drimaren K or CL combined
with 2% to 4% Sandospace R Paste if necessary

+2-3 rinsings at 50°C according to depth

+Soaping between 80´/95°C with
+Ladipur RSK or Ladiquest 1097.IN liq
+pH 9
+Imacol C2G.IN liq.

+Primary trials are recommanded to check the influence of the type of

Drimaren dyes, the concentration of Sandospace R Paste on to the
desired effect.
+Drimagen E2R Liquid is necessary to level the distribution of the dyes
during the first step of the dyeing (salt phasis), to control the fixation
of the dyes (alkali addition).

TEXTILE 7
 Colour Chronicle
April 2007
LYOCELL FIBRES – FINISHING ROUTES
The recommendations given here for LYOCELL and TENCEL fibers are guidelines. Specific recipes must be formulated together with the customer on
the basis of the quality of his substrate and available machines.

Telluric treatment to produce fibrillated surfaces

Scouring/Desizing 1g/l Imerol PCJ liquid
Desizing 2ml/l Bactosol PHC Liquid HC
Sirrix 2UD.IN Liq pH 6, 20mins at 60 0C

Causticizing 6 0Be NaOH

1ml/l Imerol PCJ Liquid 60mins at 70 0C
1ml/l Imacol C Liquid conc

Enzyme Treatment ca.1% Bactosol CA Liq conc

(before or after dyeing) Sirrix 2UD.IN Liq pH 5.5, 40 min at 60 0C

Telluric Treatment 3-5% Pumice Stones

(after dyeing) 0.5-1% Bactosol CA Liq conc
1ml/l Imacol C Liquid conc
Sirrix 2UD.IN Liq pH 5.5, 40 min at 60 0C

Finishing: 1-3% Solusoft MW Liq

Exhaust Process 1-3% Sandosoft PNLI pH 5, 20 mins at 40 0C

Finishing: 10-30g/l Solusoft MW Liq pick-up 70-80%

Pad Process 10-30g/l Ceraperm MN Liq dry at 130 0C

Drying and tumbler Treatment High speed tumbling machines are recommended so as to ensure an effective enzyme
wash.

Prevention of fibrillation during

dyeing (jet)
Up to now very little other than "peach skin"
effects were required on fabrics of 100%
Tencel or Lyocell and their blends. These were
achieved through fibrillation processes on
special machines with Bactosol CA Liq conc
treatment followed by "telluric" treatment.
Smooth finishes are increasingly in demand.
Fibrillation is not desired, particularly on knit
goods. Since this undesired fibrillation is
produced by minimal mechanical stress during
wet processes, we have developed processes
which prevent fibrillation, e.g. during dyeing on
the jet.

Wet cross linking

After desizing (e.g. pad roll desizing) and
scouring, the goods are dried in open width.
The cross linking agent solution is then padded
(pickup ca. 80%) and the goods rolled up and
batched with rotation for 22-24 h. Re-rolling
after 1 - 2 h is recommended to equalize any
swelling tension. After washing off and
neutralizing, the goods can be dyed without
any disturbing fibrillation.

8 TEXTILE

Recipe:
50 - 150 g/l Arkofix NDF.IN Liq Conc
80 - 100 g/l Hydrochloric acid 80%
2 g/l Sandozin NIN Liquid
+pad cold, pickup ca 80 %
+roll
+after ca. 1 h re-roll and wrap in plastic
film
+batch with rotation for 22-24 h
+rinse thoroughly cold and at 60°C
+neutralize with 1.5 - 2 g/l soda ash at
50°C
+rinse hot and cold
+if necessary neutralize with acetic acid
+Rinse cold.
The amount of cross linking agent depends on
the material and whether this wet cross linking
is intended to stabilize fibrillation as well as
prevent greying during subsequent domestic
laundering. The depth of the dyeing may be
affected so it is advisable to determine the
optimum recipe in pretrials.
Mercerization
With wet-cross linked goods it is virtually
impossible to produce a peach skin effect by an
enzymatic/telluric treatment. Macro- and micro-
fibrillation are blocked and the surface remains
smooth.
A mercerization process at 22-27°Bé also
achieves blocking of undesired fibrillation. The
goods can be dyed on the jet but contrast to
wet cross linking, micro fibrillation is still
possible by applying an enzymatic treatment.
The effects show relatively good wash
fastness so that finishing with Arkofix
NDF.IN Liq conc can be omitted in some
cases. In any case the amount of Arkofix
NDF.IN Liq conc can be reduced. Anyway, it is
important that permanent softeners are applied
in finishing (exhaust or pad).
Whether wet cross linking or mercerization is
carried out also depends on the following
factors:
+ available machines (mercerizing
machine, padder for CPB process)
+ whether total blocking or micro
fibrillation is required
+ quality of goods
+ construction of the goods
+ Dyeing process, etc.
Both methods have advantages and
disadvantages. The most suitable process must
be selected in each case together with the
customer.
Greying and fibrillation in domestic
laundering
Complaints about unsightly garments after only
TEXTILE
Colour Chronicle
April 2007
one or two washes are steadily increasing. 40-60 g/l Arkofix NDF.IN Liq Conc
12-18 g/l Magnesium Chloride
The garment containing Lyocell/Tencel which 0.3-0.4 g/l Citric Acid
was prepared, finished and made up with so 15-20 g/l Ceraperm MN Liquid
much care was washed by the housewife 20-30 g/l Solusoft ACN Liquid
according to the recommendation in a gentle 170-175 0C, 30-25 secs curing time (without
programme at 40°C. In spite of this the drying time)
mechanical stress in the washing machine was Very good sewability, soft, slightly full, flowing
sufficient to cause severe fibrillation of the handle, semi-permanent, no fibrillation, no
surface and a grey appearance of the goods. greying even after several domestic washes.
Often after the first wash the special soft
flowing handle of this fibre has disappeared 0.5 g/l Sandozin NRW Liquid
and left a hard, board like fabric. This is the 40-60 g/l Arkofix NDF.IN Liq Conc
result of using the wrong, non-permanent 12-18 g/l Magnesium Chloride
softener during finishing. 0.3-0.4 g/l Citric Acid
15-25 g/l Ceraperm MN Liq
We recommend our permanent softeners from 10-20 g/l Solusoft ACN Liquid
the Sandoperm and Ceraperm ranges for this 20-30 g/l Hydroperm RPU Liq
special, eco-friendly hi-tech fibre of the 170-175 0C, 30-25 secs curing time (without
superior class. Garments finished with these drying time)
softeners are still soft and comfortable to wear Very soft & highly voluminous handle with
after several washes. These permanent excellent elasticity and elegant drape of the
softeners also contribute to protection of the knit goods. The effects are wash resistant.
environment because they remain on the fibre Very good sewability, no fibrillation, no greying
and are not washed into the effluent. even after several domestic washes.
But!
Even they cannot prevent fibrillation during Woven Goods:
domestic washing. 0.5 g/l Sandozin NRW Liquid
50-80 g/l Arkofix NDF.IN Liq Conc
There are various possible methods of 15-24 g/l Magnesium Chloride
achieving washing machine-resistant goods: 0.3-0.4 g/l Citric Acid (only for shock
+ Resin finishing with Arkofix NDF.IN curing)
Liq conc by the dry curing method 20 g/l Solusoft ACN Liquid
together with permanent softeners (see 25-30 g/l Solusoft MW Liq conc
recipes) 10 g/l Ceraperm MN Liq
+ As mentioned above, a higher amount 170-175 oC, 30-25secs or 150 oC, 4mins,
of Arkofix NDF.IN Liq conc can be followed by tumbler or sanfor treatment
added in wet cross linking before Soft, smooth, slightly voluminous handle. Cool
dyeing to achieve fibrillation “silk touch”. Permanent protection against
stabilization for domestic laundering. greying in domestic washing. Soft handle even
However, if it is desired to keep the after several washes.
Arkofix NDF.IN Liq conc
concentration as low as possible before 0.5 g/l Sandozin NRW Liquid
dyeing, it is possible to add a reduced 50-80 g/l Arkofix NDF.IN Liq Conc
amount of Arkofix NDF.IN Liq conc 15-24 g/l Magnesium Chloride
during finishing. 0.3-0.4 g/l Citric Acid (only for shock
+ In many cases mercerization produces curing)
adequate stabilization but there is also 20 g/l Solusoft ACN Liquid
the possibility of applying Arkofix 30-40 g/l Hydroperm RPU Liquid
NDF.IN Liq concin finishing. 170-175 oC, 30-25secs or 150 oC, 4mins,
followed by tumbler or sanfor treatment
If no cross linking agent has been applied
before finishing, higher amounts of Arkofix Exceptionally soft, voluminous handle with very
NDF.IN Liq concmust be applied in final elegant drape and natural fullness (Body). The
finishing. volume and soft handle are highly wash
resistant. No greying even after several
We recommend the following recipes for resin
domestic washes through the permanent
finishing of knit and woven goods.
prevention of fibrillation. Especially on pre-
Finishing recommendations for pad application: emerized goods, a wash resistant peach skin or
velvet effect is achieved with this top finish.
Knits:
0.5 g/l Sandozin NRW Liquid
9
 Colour Chronicle
April 2007

References:-
+ Thesis of Mrs. Nicolai - TITK - D07407 Rudolstadt
+ www.fibersource.com
+ Lyocell - one fiber, many faces ( www.ohioline.osu.edu )

Dr. N. N. Mahapatra
conferred as Fellow of
the Society of Dyers and Colourists
The Society of Dyers and Colourists (U K) has
conferred, Dr N. N. Mahapatra, as Fellow of Dr Mahapatra is having 23 years of experience He is a Senior Member of American
the Society of Dyers and Colourists. In a in Textile Industry. He has worked in units like Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
communication sent on 16th January 2007, Mr Jayashree Textile (a unit of Aditya Birla group), and Textile Institute ,Manchester. He is a life
Kenneth McGhee, Chief Executive & Secratory Rishra, Hooghly (W. B); Gujarat Spinners Ltd, member of Textile Association of India, Indian
SDC intorned Dr. Mahapatra of this decision of Bharuch, Gujarat; Raymond Kenya; RSWM Ltd Institute of Chemical Engineers and All India
council of the society (Banswara and Gulabpura units); Churchgate Management Association.
group Nigeria; Reliance Industries; Naroda;
Dr Mahapatra holds B.Sc Tech in Textile Ahmedabad. The formal presentation of the diploma of
Chemistry from UICT, Mumbai University; M.Sc fellowship to Dr Mahapatra will take place at a
and Ph.D in Chemistry from Utkal University, Dr Mahapatra's expertise is in various type of ceremony to be held in Bradford (U K) on April
Orissa; M.B.A from I.M.M. Kolkatta. At present fibre dyeing, yarn dyeing, hank dyeing. He is 27, 2007.
Dr N. N. Mahapatra, Dy. General Manager involved in cost reduction, process
(Processing), Sutlej Textiles And Industries optimization, erection and commissioning,
Limited, K. K. Birla group, Unit; Chenab Textile effluent treatment and new fibre processing in
Mills, Kathua (J & K) is heading the biggest Textile industries.
fibre dyeing unit in India.

10 TEXTILE

Paper Business
Take productivity to new
heights with Cartafen ZFX liq
New Cartafen ZFX liq from
Clariant has already achieved
soaring paper production and
significant cost savings in paper
mills making brown packaging
grades.
Cartafen ZFX liq delivers:
+ Increased paper machine
dewatering
+ Increased production speed
+ Increased production output
per day
+ Significant savings in energy
and total cost of operation
Because Cartafen ZFX liq is
unaffected by the dissolved and
colloidal anionic materials in the
papermaking furnish, it makes a
measurable difference to
productivity and
Colour Chronicle
April 2007
Exactly your chemistry.
cost-effectiveness wherever there
is low fresh water usage (<5
m3/tonne), high conductivity
(>2,500 µS/cm), or when using
lignin-containing pulp fibres.

Sense the difference with Clariant
Clariant forecast the latest leather trends
for Spring Summer 2008
CLARIANT TAKE FASHION seriously. The
company undertake extensive fashion research
which is then applied in the creation of finished
articles. These unique prototypes demonstrate
the potential of the latest leather trends and
are shown to tanners at the company's
roadshows and customer events across the
globe. In addition to the roadshows, Clariant
can stage special customer events long before
the season begins. They have found a big
demand for this in Asia and Latin America
because Clariant's fashion experts are closer to
the centre of global fashion in Europe.
Clariant have a long history of involvement
with garments, leathergoods and footwear. The
programme was created to assist tanners with
their marketing and the initiative began in Italy
with designer, technician and marketing teams
working together.
Clariant presented their own fashion articles as
long ago as the Semaine du Cuir in Paris
twenty years ago. Unlike areas such as
automotive and technical leathers, imagination
is the key when creating fashion leathers. The
fashion group was created as a service led
project, taking a strategic approach. Gian
Pietro Papa is the designer who has been
involved since the beginning. He travels widely
and has an overview of what is going on.
Clariant also work with London based fashion
institutes. Inspiration is taken from a range of
sources including architecture, arts, interiors
and textures.
Four to five trends are produced each season.
Trend forecasts appear twice a year and are
published well in advance of the season. From
12
conception to the final article takes 3-4
months then two more months to bring to the
marketplace.
Clariant's Global Colour forecast with real
leather samples comes in advance of the trend
package to be as timely as possible. These
colour moods are now integrated as part of the
package and there are three leather collections
worldwide.
A key point is that the leathers are reproducible
internationally; these are not one-off designs
made by hand.
All in all, everyone can benefit from planning
well in advance.
Clariant forecast the latest leather trends
for spring-summer 2008
THE LATEST FASHION UP! comes with four
fresh seasonal statements from Clariant’s
Leather Business. The latest forecast for
spring-summer 2008 allows tanners to be one
step ahead when it comes to leather fashion.
The Group’s innovative fashion package
includes four trendsetting routes to follow:
‘Pure and Simple’, ‘Fashion
Rebellion’, ‘Clean Lines’ and
‘Cool Luxe’.
Developed by Clariant’s
International Fashion
Group, this stylish
promotional
kit is
Colour Chronicle
April 2007
equipped with an eye-catching fashion poster
swatched with real leather samples and
comprehensive information about trends
and corresponding interpretations on leather.
All prototype articles are exclusively made by
Italian stylists and will be displayed during
Clariant’s fashion shows and fairs around the
world.
Minimalism, luxury, nature and tough looks are
the four key directions to pursue. Pure and
Simple reflects precious nature, realised with
exclusive colour mixes and finishing effects.
Green fashion and products that conjure up a
feeling of natural goodness are high profile. The
colour palette ranges from pale to earthy
shades for a highly sophisticated chic
combined with a feeling of natural goodness.
Fashion Rebellion is a reaction to recent girly
frills and hourglass silhouettes. Now it is time
to toughen up! The current punk, grunge and
goth revivals have sparked off a new feeling for
tough aggressive looks. Barren concrete
interiors, surreal nature and rebellious heavy
booted fashion models set the scene. Fashion
Rebellion works on opposites
using dark summer shades.
Right (from top): Driftwood,
Sandy Bay, Brine, Salt
Wash, Pebble, Cape Point
and Froth.
LEATHER

Pure lines of modern architecture, chic poolside
spas and minimalist summer cabins inspire
Clariant’s third fashion trend, named Clean
Lines. Clean shapes in strong bold colours are
used for minimalist summer dresses. Innovative
laser-technology or water-based brush-offs –
outstanding finishing technologies from
Clariant catch the eye of this superb style.
Cool Luxe is represented by a brilliant look. It
is inspired by bronze sculptures in warm and
cool tones. High gloss leathers, shine and dull
effects combine with brilliant colours for a
splendid super chic.
LEATHER
Colour Chronicle
April 2007
Recognizing that all aspects of lifestyle are
influenced by fashion moods, Clariant are
constantly expanding their fashion activities at
a global level to be as close as they can to the
looks of tomorrow. A strong focus on quality,
worldwide standards, innovation and ecology
will always be key for Clariant’s committed
fashion team.
Under the motto ‘Fashion up!’ the brand new
fashion package will be discussed in further
detail with customers. Fashion up! is not only a
forward- looking trend adventure – every issue
should be a useful tool to integrate art into
fashion and open new ways for the future.
For more information please get in touch with
Clariant direct or with their local
representatives.
Below from left to right: Jet Black, Crisp
White, Ink Spot, Battleship, Red Flag,
Bunting and Scanda Blue.
Above right from top to bottom:
Groen, Bakkie, Skollie, Bitumen, Shanty,
Rusty Nail, Rooikop, Château, French
Lavender, Hameau, Trianon, Gilded Cherub,
Sun King and Fêtes de nuit.
13
Feel the fashion Spring/Summer 2008 with Clariant's f
Pure and Simple / Sevillane Fashion Rebellion / Eruption
The Andalusian girl from Seville performs the “Flamenco” in a colourful The eruption of an aquatic volcano with Melio® 09-L-34 leads to hot
dress for which the combination of Neosan® 2000 Pigments and magma flowing in the waves of the turbulent ocean – expressed by
Supronil® HK dyes from a perfect match. This colour interplay is Neosan® 2000 Pigments. This tough looking military boot shines day
achieved using a special screen-printing effect. Thanks to an unique and night in a patent style on an aqueous base.
odourless topcoat system, consisting of Melio® EW-346 and
Melio® 04-G-129, her elegant perfume can still excite her male
audience.
fascinating new trends in leather.
Exactly your chemistry.
Clean Lines / Lino Cool Luxe / Crystal Pearl
Where innovation hits basic colours Lino is the catch of the day. A Crystal Pearl represent a splendid outfit
special preground with Melio® Ground CL provides an uniform surface combining luxury with a required
on this yellow-dyed split leather handbag. The clear “Lino-effect” in a “coolness”. The classical style of high
reddish shade is applied using a special rollercoating Melio® Aquabase gloss is achieved using
technique with Melio® 06-U-55. Melio® 09-L-34 in combination with Melio® Top 297. Opcalin Pearl
Pigments reflect the brilliant “luxe”.
 Colour Chronicle
April 2007

Emulsions for Paper application

Technical papers Wet laid non wovens
Impregnated Decoration Paper Coated Bottle Label Automotive filters
+ Typical properties we can tailor: + Typical properties we can tailor: + Typical properties we can tailor :
+ Flexibility + Resistance to caustic + Wet and dry tensile strength
+ Strength + Wet-strength + Burst
+ Varnish absorption + Mechanical resistance (impact) + Compatibility with prominent
+ Synthetic resin absorption and + Gloss crosslinkers
compatibility + Printability + Solvent resistance
+ Optimal Printability + High temperature resistance

Cartacoat B 634 is the building block

Cartacoat B 634: Styrene Acrylate copolymer dispersion
for coated paper and board
Cartacoat B 640 and Cartacoat B 641 are
the building blocks
Cartacoat B 640: self-crosslinked Styrene Acrylate Ink jet papers Cartacoat B 650 and Cartacoat B 642 are
emulsion copolymer
+ Typical properties we can tailor : the Building blocks
Cartacoat B 641: formaldehyde-free Styrene Acrylate Cartacoat B 650 : self-crosslinked Styrene Acrylate
emulsion copolymer + Printing quality emulsion copolymer for automotive filters
+ Optical density Cartacoat B 642 : self-crosslinked Styrene Acrylate
+ Color to color bleeding emulsion copolymer for automotive filters
Wallpaper and Coated wallpaper + Feathering
+ Typical properties we can tailor : + Binding power
+ Water resistance + Coating and print water resistance Teabags
+ Light fastness + Typical properties we can tailor :
+ Wet and dry tensile Strength Cartacoat B 930 and Cartacoat B 750 are + Wet and dry tensile strength
+ Tear strength the starting blocks + Hot water resistance
Cartacoat B 930 : neutral Acrylate copolymer dispersion, + Food contact compliance
+ Printability binder for inkjet papers
FDA 176.180 and 176.170 BfR 36
Cartacoat B 750 : cationic Styrene Acrylate copolymer
dispersion, binder for inkjet paper
Cartacoat B 631 is the building block
Cartacoat B 631: Styrene Acrylate emulsion copolymer
dispersion

Medical non wovens

+ Typical properties we can tailor:
+ Sterilization (Y rays)
+ Fluid barrier
Cartacoat B 432 and Cartacoat B 433 are
+ Mechanical properties
the building blocks
Cartacoat B 432 : self-crosslinked Vinyl Acrylate emulsion + Resistance to alcohols
copolymer for uncoated wallpaper + Soft hand
Cartacoat B 433 : self-crosslinked Vinyl Acrylate emulsion
copolymer for coated wallpaper
Cartacoat B 600 is the building block
Cartacoat B 600: Styrene Acrylate emulsion copolymer
dispersion

16 PAPER
 Colour Chronicle
April 2007

Packaging
Coated board Food packaging papers and board Grease resistant food packaging
+ Typical properties we can tailor : + Properties we can tailor : + The Cartapack concept aims to replace
+ Dry & Wet-strength + Water resistance fluorochemicals for fast-food packaging
+ Smoothness + WVTR (Water Vapor Resistance) applications
+ Mechanical resistance + Fat resistance + Effective coating formulations tailored to
+ Gloss + Food contact compliance each customer depending on requirements
+ Printability + Application + Comparable application cost to
+ Food contact compliance + Air-Knife, Bar, Blade fluorochemical treatment
+ Imminent official launch
Cartapack 0602E and 0604E are the
building blocks
Cartapack 0602E and 0604E are formulations based on
Styrene Acrylate emulsion copolymers

Anti-slip paper and board

+ Properties we can tailor :
Cartacoat B 631 and B 634 are the + Friction coefficient
building blocks + Food contact compliance
Cartacoat B 631 and B 634 are Styrene Acrylate emulsion
+ Water resistance
copolymers for coated paper and boardpaper
+ Temperature resistance
+ Anti-blocking
Wax coated board + Application
+ Replacement of wax Cartaseal VGL and FTU are the building + Gravure printer
+ Typical Properties we can tailor : blocks + Photogravure printers
Cartaseal VGL and FTU are formulations based on Styrene
+ Water barrier (Cobb)
Acrylate emulsion copolymers
+ Repulpability Cartaseal AXU, ATM, APM and AFM are
+ Recycling ability the building block
+ Easy handling
+ Application
+ Air-Knife, Bar, Blade, size-press

Cartaseal FWP and FWT are the building

blocks
Cartaseal FWP/FWT are formulations based on Styrene
Acrylate emulsion copolymers

PAPER 17
 Colour Chronicle
April 2007
Summary
Cartacoat B… building blocks Overall emulsion polymer range
Decoration paper Cartacoat B 640, B 641 Technical Wet-laid non Packaging
Range papers
Wallpaper and Coated Cartacoat B 432 , B 433 wovens
Technical papers wallpaper
Coated Bottle labels Cartacoat B 631 and 634 Binders Cartacoat B
Ink jet Papers Cartacoat B 930 and B 750 Barrier and Cartaseal /
Filters Cartacoat B 650 anti-slip Cartapack
additives
Wet laid non wovens Tea bags Cartacoat B 631
Medical papers Cartacoat B 600
Packaging Coated board Cartacoat B 631 and B 634 Other additives
Technical Wet-laid non Packaging
Range papers wovens
Cartacoat B Building blocks
Glyoxal and
zirconium- Cartabond
B 642, based TSI/LSZ/ZK
Filters Crosslinkers
B 631 B 750,
ink jet Surface sizing Cartacol
Styrene Acrylates Tea B 640,
bags Decor
B 930, paper Rheology
B 600 Inkjet Cartacoat RM
modifiers
Medical B 650,
non-woven B 634 B 641, Filters
Grease Cartafluor
Coated board Decor paper resistance
fluoropolymers CFI /NFI

-25°C 0°C +25°C +50°C

Tg Building blocks chief characteristics
B 433
Coated
Wallpaper Building block Tg in °C PH Solids content Comments
Cartacoat B 640 28 4 50 Thermal crosslinking
Vinyl Acrylates Cartacoat B 641 28 5 50
B 432 Cartacoat B 642 28 4 50 Thermal crosslinking
Wallpaper Cartacoat B 432 20 5 50 Thermal crosslinking
Cartacoat B 433 19 7 50
Cartacoat B 634 8 7 50
Cartacoat B 930 12 8 50 Non ionic product
Building blocks for Packaging Cartacoat B 750 51 4 30 Cationic product
Cartacoat B 650 47 4 50 Thermal crosslinking
Coating Cartacoat B 631 and B 634 Cartacoat B 631 20 8 50
Water barrier Cartaseal FW types, Cartacoat B 600 -25 2.5 50 Thermal crosslinking
Packaging Cartaseal VGL…
Grease barrier Cartapack grades…
Anti slip Cartaseal A.. grades

Global Cartaseal Product Range 2006 Excellent for this application

Good for this application
Not recommended for this application

Barrier Properties Other Properties Suitable Drying Method Food Contact

Product
Product Name Water Fat/ Heat Heat Overcoat- Non- Drying FDA/BfR
Category Water Anti-Slip
Vapour Grease Resistance Seal ability Contact Cylinder Approval
Cartaseal FTU F Yes / Yes
Cartaseal FWT F No / No
Cartaseal FWP F No / No
Cartaseal VGL V Yes / No
Cartaseal TPU T Yes / Yes
Cartaseal SVU S Yes / Yes
Cartaseal NW N No / No
Cartaseal AXU A No / No
Cartaseal ATM A No / No
Cartaseal APM A No / No
Cartaseal AFM A Yes / Yes

18 PAPER
 Colour Chronicle
April 2007

Clariant Consultancy Service Section

Poor / Uneven surface; Improper removal of kitties in heavy drill fabric on jigger and whiteness variation are some of the other major problems
encountered during processing

Problems Probable Causes/Remedies Remedial Measures

+Poor / Uneven absorbency Improper Scouring due to:

+ Paucity of Alkali
+ Channeling of Kier liquor
+ Inadequate boiling time
+Negative pick-up
+Insufficient steaming in steamer
+Inadequate dwell time in CBR/J-Box
+Dropping of steam condensates water
during batching on Pad-roll system
+Due to the use of poor quality of wetting
agents which have low alkali stability and
hence cannot assist the penetration of
caustic soda for efficient saponification
reaction. Because of poor detergency and
dispersing effects, paraffin wax cannot be
removed completely.
+Maintain proper concentration of alkali
+Ensure proper piling of fabric into the kier
+Maintain proper boiling time depending on
fabric quality
+Ensure 15-20% differential wet pick-up on
saturators
+Ensure proper steam pressure
+Maintain the desired dwell time by
controlling the speed of the machine
depending on fabric quality
+Ensure proper threading and heating of TRC
to avoid steam condensation/dropping on
cloth
+Use of Hostapal MRN Liq conc. is
recommended as a wetting cum detergent.
The synergistic properties of the product
help to penetrate into the core of the fibre
by eliminating fibre-liquid surface tension
and saponification of oil impurities. So
fabrics gets very good absorbency.

+Poor dye pick up on viscose and polynosics
component
Bleeding of color to the adjacent white
+ Presence of hydrolyzed starch acting as
portion
Lighter selvedge when scoured in JT-10
+ Due to improper oxidative treatment
Dark colored patches
+ Fabric coming in direct contact with
+Orientation of skin of viscose/polynosics, +Causticize goods with (or leaching of
thereby making penetration of dye difficult surface of viscose) 60 g/l Caustic Soda
5 g/l Mercerol QWN.IN Liq Thorough hot
wash, cold wash Neutralize
with Sirrix N Liq conc
+ + Use mild oxidizing agent like Revatol S.
a reducing agent IN p
Recuperator temperature more than
+ + Recuperator temperature should not
600C exceed 600C
+ + Ensure uniform pH of the fabric at the
mainly Sodium hypochlorite bleaching. body and near the selvedge before
The selvedge gets more exposed to air oxidative treatment
+ If possible, avoid hypochlorite
bleaching and give Protonic treatment
with Sirrix 2UD.IN Liq +
Hostapal MRN Liq conc. followed by
Peroxide bleaching
+ + Ensure proper feeding of alkali
concentrated feeding alkali
Frequent stoppages of mercerizing
+ +Avoid frequent stoppages of
machine mercerizer
Dry up of improperly neutralized alkali
+
after mercerization +Efficient neutralisation of the alkali
Abrasion before dyeing
+ after mercerization
+Check for rough surfaces in fabric
flow.

CLARINT CONSULTANCY SERVICE SECTION 19

Eganal PS Liquid
Effective leveling and dispersing agent for polyester processing Levelling
+ Exhibits effective leveling and dispersing properties for uniform Column-Test
5
dyeing and printing without retarding action. Emulsifying Levelling
+ Produces bright dyeing silicon oil 4 Mini-Bobbin
+ Prevents filtering off of dyes during package dyeing. 3
+ Excellent oil emulsifying property Emulsifying 2 Dispersin
+ Fabric substantive leveling agent mineral oil HPX-Yellow
+ Also suitable for automotive yarn dyeing 1
0
Physico-chemical properties
Foaming Filtertest
+Yellowish, readily pourable liquid Foam white 1 g/l
+Anionic
+Readily Dilutable with water
+Good stability to hard water, acids, alkalis, salts Retardin Migration
+Compatible with products of various Ionicity Gre Brown-
+Storage-stable under normal conditions, i.e., between 0 – 500C Migration
3-Colours

Bactosol CO ip Liquid
A new bio-catalyst based on selected pectate lyase enzymes for Diagram: Process with Bactosol CO ip liquid
the removal of pectines and associated hydrophobic materials in Temperature (oC)
100
the bio-scouring of cotton and its components in blends o
95 C
+ Enzymatic catalyst for the removal of hydrophobic materials in order 80
15 min 15 min

to give an excellent absorbency to the fabric. o

7 3 C min
Drain
+ Substitutes the soda scouring 60
Bio-Scouring
+ Optimum price/performance ratio Dyeing
40
+ Works at bath pH approximately 8.5 9.5 0.2% Soda ash
pH=8.5 - 9.0
+ Significant reduction of overall process costs due to saving in water, 20 0.1% Bactosol CO ip liq
0.4% Imerol NLF Liquid
energy and process time.
+ Less rinsing needed after bio-scouring for dark shades' dyeing. 0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
+ No neutralization needed Time (min)
+ Enzymatic treatment with Bactosol CO ip Liquid offers all possible
advantages with regard to efficiency, economy and ecology (Clariant
EEE concept)

20 NEW ARRIVAL
 Colour Chronicle
April 2007

Bio-scouring (with Bactosol CO ip Liquid) Vs Conventional Scouring & Bleaching

(Substrate – 100% Cotton knits)

Test Parameter Conventional Bio-scouring process

Process Time 105 mins 80 mins

Package cost Rs 2.52/- Rs 2.03/-
Absorbency – Drop test Instant Instant
Absorbency – Wicking 60 mm 59 mm
COD 7784 mg/lit 741 mg/lit
BOD 4000 mg/lit 300 mg/lit
TDS 4666 mg/lit 923 mg/lit

Ceraperm MD Plus –
for the Comfort of Cotton & feel of leather
Speciality Finish for altogether different handle– a leather touch to your fabric
+ Newly developed Ceraperm MD plus alone when applied through padding gives a unique leather
handle to the fabric after curing.
+ Imparts good bounce to the fabric.
+ Imparts good elasticity & stretch to the fabric particularly on knits.
+ Fabric becomes much fuller & soft.
+ Produces excellent dry-bounce handle on polyester saris.
+ Fabric does not become limp.

MULTI-DIMENSIONAL EFFECTS

BOUNCE

PERMANENCE BODY

DRYBOUNCE LEATHER
ON PES

ELASTICITY
NO LIMP
STRETCH

NEW ARRIVAL 21
 Colour Chronicle
April 2007

Inside Views
Apparel & Fashion Meet in Bangalore
Mr Christoph Bergmann (Apparel & Fashion,
Clariant International) was in India to promote
the Apparel & Fashion Concept in India and to
meet some of our key customers. During his
visit, a customer meet was organized in
Bangalore and was attended by several leading
brands and apparel manufacturers. Special
effects and various functional finishes as per
the end use were discussed.

Apparel & Fashion Meet in Bangalore

TexSummit 2007
Clariant was the GOLD Sponsor for the
TexSummit 2007, an international conference
on “Contemporary Processing of Textiles &
Apparels: Challenges and Opportunities” which
was held in Mumbai on January 11, 2007. The
Conference was organized by the UICT
(formerly UDCT). Mr Anjani Prasad (Head
Textile, Leather & Paper Chemicals Division)
presented a paper on “Novel effects in Garment
processing and value added finishes”.

He highlighted Clariant's products and services

offerings for textiles that has strengthened the
company's image as a “Total Solution” provider.
Some of the services promoted were
consultancy service, certificate course on wet
processing of textiles and packages like Easy
Pre, Ant-Ox, pad-Ox, Black magic and so on.
The Divisions publications were on display at a
stall at the venue.

Mr. A. K. Prasad at TexSummit 2007

Printofix New Range introduced
Technical meets were organized for Printofix concept in Tirupur and Delhi
during the visit of Stefan Schlosser (PG Printing, Clariant International).
Introducing the new Printofix T premium range with very high fastness
levels & Printofix A range – range with moderate level of fastness,
pigment dispersions for pigment printing, Mr Schlosser highlighted the
various unique features of the range and the benefits they offer to
printers such as – high dispersion stability, very low viscosity of pigment
dispersion.
Technical Workshop – Wet end dyes and chemicals for
Leather Industry
Mr. John Alan Grant, Finishing technician visited India for trials with key
customers from February 19 to March 9, 2007. A technical workshop
with customer projects for wet end dyes & chemicals was completed in
January 2007 by Mr. Angel Navarro. Mr. Clive Sibborn visited the South
& East markets from January 28 to February 6, 2007.

22 INSIDE VIEWS
 Colour Chronicle
April 2007

International Textile Conference

Clariant also sponsored a dinner at the
“International Textile Conference” organized by
DKTE Society's Textile and Engineering
Institute as part of their Silver Jubilee
Celebration from February 17 -18, 2007.
Various emerging areas like nano-technology,
technical textiles, recent advances in
machinery and technology were the highlight of
the event. Mr Nirmal Punjabi presented a paper
on “Specialized Preparatory, dyeing and
finishing processes for fabrics and garments”.
Various specialty / value added finishes,
concepts from Pre-treatment to dyeing
processes from Clariant were the highlights.
International Textile Conference

First certificate course on “Wet Processing

of Textiles” by Clariant
The first Certificate Course on “Wet Processing
of Textiles” was successfully conducted at the
factory premises of M/s OBEETEE PVT LTD,
Gopiganj, Distt. Bhadohi, UP. This Customer is
most reputed Woolen Carpet yarn Dyers and
Processor and a trend setter .Most of the
Woolen carpet is exported. Training was
organized in two batches for a total of 28
participants from dyeing head to shop floor
supervisors working in shifts. The one week
training was organized to create awareness
about various textile finishes, pre-treatment
processes, dyeing and the faults related to
dyeing. Other topics such as role of auxiliaries,
laboratory test procedures, RFD (ready for
dyeing) and shade correction methods were also
discussed. The Certificate course was Participants from M/s Obeetee with Clariant team during the training
conducted without disturbing the participant's
job schedule.
Mr P K Trivedi (GM Technical Services), Mr S P Verma (Regional Manager Mirzapur) and Mr Sanjeev Sinha (Manager PG W/S/N Dyes & Chemicals)
were the faculty for this training Programme. The course was appreciated by the management of Obeetee and they have asked us to offer other
Consultancy Services like Process Audit of their Mills.

INSIDE VIEWS 23
 Colour Chronicle
April 2007

Apparel and Fashion Section

Easy clean and body comfort
Clariant's effort and innovation to meet the modern requirements of Following are the products to achieve “easy clean & body
garments results in an outstanding finish: comfort”
easy clean & body comfort Nuva® 4118 Liquid
+ newly developed nanotech based hydrophilic soil release finish
Ordinary finishes in the past have protected against stains but with loss + excellent wicking properties
of wearing properties. Classical soil + Good washing permanency
release finishes reduce the capability
of the fabrics moisture management Solusoft® TOW Liquid Conc.
transportation dramatically. + Hydrophilic silicone softener
+ Ideal for moisture management
With Clariant's new easy clean & + finish fine, super soft, elegant handle means excellent wearability
body comfort, overcome the + No yellowing on white goods
discomfort and feel great at any time + Suitable for overprinting
and any place.
Hydroperm® HV Liquid
Characteristics of effect are + Hydrophilic silicone softener
+ Easy removal of dirt and stains + Gives soft and full handle with high wicking property
during laundry + Additionally used in the easy-care finish
+ Excellent body climate due to
fast and effective moisture Hydroperm® SRHA Liquid
transportation away from the + Moisture management, soil release and anti-static properties
skin + Wicks moisture away from skin
+ Improved drying properties + Dries more quickly
+ Durable effect – even after + Stays soft and breathable
multiple washes + Durable effects upto 30 laundries

This finishing effect is suitable for different fabrics (Co, Co/PES).
This effect has a high performance regarding moisture management and
soil & stain release.
1. Hydrophilic properties
On cotton-twill (left) and cotton-interlock (right)
Fluowet® UD Liquid
+ Special wetting agent for fluorocarbon application
+ Adversely affect the hydrophilic effect of finishes because it has
no rewetting properties
Additionally a new effect label to visualize the added value of the
combination of soil & stain release and moisture management.

1 = unfinished
2 = traditional soil release finish
3 = easy clean & body comfort

1 2 3 1 2 3

2. Soil and stain release properties

Soiled with cooking oil and then laundered one time
(according AATCC 130)

Unfinished Traditional soil easy clean &

release finish body comfort

24 APPAREL AND FASHION SECTION

 Colour Chronicle
April 2007

Corporate Product Safety (CPS)

Clariant starts its world class product safety testing
facilities at Kolshet, Thane.

Mounting awareness and concern for consumer and environmental
protection, increasingly stringent statutory regulations, retailer standards
and various eco-labeling requirements have made product safety testing a
mandatory pre-requisite for doing business today.
Need and Importance of Product Safety in today's scenario
There are several reasons
+ Legislations related to Chemistry, are becoming increasingly
expansive and complex worldwide.
+ Product exclusion lists from Insurers are being annually extended.
+ More and more Retailers are coming up with their individual
Restricted Substances Lists with varied limits
+ Required Support within Clariant on Ecotoxicological issues
including testing.
With this new lab we will ensure that our products are always compliant
with current legislation, regulations and standards. A unique lab and only
of its kind in India dealing with process and product safety parameters,
the lab conducts,
+Restricted substances testing
Testing of restricted or banned substances in Clariant products as
well as finished articles made using Clariant's products.
+Ecological testing
Certain ecological tests, which help in assessing the
environmental impact of products
Responsibility:
+ Provide product safety services
+ Support fulfillment of legal requirements & Customer needs
Key tasks:
+Propose & implement PS plan, budget and resources
+Perform chemical evaluation and registrations
+Communicate important health & environmental issues
+Support legal departments on liability/claim issues
+Safeguard compliance with defined standards & guidelines
+Support Emergency Management
+Manage REACH related activities

+ Physical testing
For safe production, storage and transportation of products as
they help in defining process parameters, storage and transport
classification and hazard handling

CORPORATE PRODUCT SAFETY 25

 Colour Chronicle
April 2007

Gleanings from Press

Textile
LMW group co to diversify into home textiles
The LMW group outfit Adwaith Lakshmi Industries Ltd. Is foraying into
home textiles/terry products to take advantage of strong growth
prospects seen in export of cotton made-ups The company is set to
implement a Rs 15 crore investment plan towards creating a home textile
division which will focus on producing bath / bed-linens and terry
products for export markets. The company is having its own yarn
production unit with a cumulative 35,000 – spindle capacity, producing
75 tonnes of yarn per month. The home textile project will be able to
draw 25 % of this yarn for captive use for home textile products, thus
giving value addition to its spinning operations
Madura Garment lines up two-way split
A V Birla group (AVB) is set to split Madura Garments, the country's
largest branded apparel business, into two companies. The group is
poised to unveil MG Lifestyle Brands and Retail Business – a new fashion
brands company operating with key brands like Louis Philippe, Allen Solly
and Van Heusen – besides lifestyle retail formats such as Planet Fashion
and Trouser Town.
Grasim Industries to launch new generation viscose fibre
Aditya Birla Group's Grasim Industries is expected to commercially
launch its third generation viscose fibre 'Excel' next month. The new
fiber, after its viscose and modal fibre ranges will be positioned at the
premium cellulosic fibre that would be used for manufacture of high end
apparels such as shirting or denim fabrics that are expected to carry
higher fabric strength and the bouncy look. The company's main viscose
fibre plant at Nagda in Madhya Pradesh has taken up trial production of
the new generation textile fibers intended to cater to the high end fabric
application.
Leather
Technology and performance come together in world's lightest
shoe
Adidas announced release of its highly anticipated running shoe - adizero
in India. Nicknamed 'Zero Gravity' adizero is world's lightest shoe and
has been designed keeping in mind the needs of both fitness conscious
people who like to run and professional runners. A groundbreaking
combination of comfort and high performance, the adizero finished first
in more than 15 of the world's most challenging marathons in 2006,
proving its outstanding design and competitive advantage.
5 SEZ footwear parks by 2010-2011
Five special economic zone footwear parks were being developed, under
the Council for Leather Exports (CLE) vision map for 2010-2011 which
envisages setting up these parks in various parts of the country. One of
the park at Sriperumbudur near Chennai is being promoted by Tamil Nadu
government which will have the capacity to manufacture one lakh pairs
of footwear a day. Other parks are scheduled to come up near Kanpur,
Hyderabad, Agra and Kolkata.
Leather industry targets $7 bn exports by 2011
The Indian Leather Industry has set $7 billion export target by 2011. It is
eager to forge tie-ups with various Italian leather goods designers to
achieve the target. An Italian delegation, which had recently visited
Kolkata recently, showed interest in India's leather industry. Italy's Arpel
Group, an international school for shoes and leather accessories
designing, is currently looking for partners in India. Retail major Wal-Mart
is also eyeing the Indian Leather sector.

You will hear Vimal Once again

The Rs 300 crore Vimal textile brand, launched 27 years ago by Reliance
Industries, is preparing for a major comeback this April. The company is
planning to launch a separate apparel brand in ready-made formal
menswear, besides introducing newer range of fabrics to its existing
textile division. The apparel range would sport a different brand name
and would cater to premium, mid and affordable segments. The company
has also signed on Maurizio Bonas, of master suit-craftsmen
from Italy repute, to introduce new designs in men's formal
wear to especially cater to the younger clientele in India.

Welspun eyes $75 M buys in UK, Europe

Welspun India, the country's largest terry towel producer and
exporter, is eyeing further acquisitions after grabbing 85% stake in CHT
holdings, the holding company of UK's largest and number one terry
towel brand Christy for Rs 132 crore last year. Currently the textile
major is exploring options to acquire another company with a minimum
size of $50-75 million in UK or Europe to gain access to new customers
and markets easily. Christy had added the much needed flip to the
Welspun portfolio, which did not have a brand of its own in the market,
though it has the license to market Tommy Hilfiger in the US and Canada.
Together with its domestic brand Spaces, the Rs 1000 crore Welspun will
muster 20% of its consolidated sales from branded products in 2007-
2008.

26 GLEANINGS FROM PRESS

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Printed and Published by K. Vasudev, on behalf of Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited
Designed by Greysell Marketing Promotions Pvt. Ltd. and Printed at Marisha Arts,
Editorial Group: Mr. K. Vasudev (Editor), Dr. G.V.G. Rao, Dr. A.L.N. Rao,
Dr. D. M. Wakankar, Dr. S.B. Joshi, Mr. Diganta Ghosh.
I, K. Vasudev, hereby declare that particulars given in the book are true to the best of my
knowledge and belief.