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Identification of Chemical Components of Natural

Colors used in Traditional Eri-Silk


Shweta Agarwal#, Prof. Jivan K Chowdhury#, Moksha Laxmi*,
Ujjwalkumar Das* & Thirumurthy Velpandian*
#School of Management, Ligaya’s Vidyapeeth, Faridabad, Haryana
*High Precision Bio-analytical Laboratory, Ocular Pharmacology and Pharmacy Division, Dr.RPCentre, All India Institute
of Medical Sciences, New Delhi.
Creating Business Avenues for BODO Women
From Vegetable Waste – A Social Impact
Enterprise

Converting Traditional knowledge for Economic


Upliftment

Work done between April- July 2019


Eri-Silk of Assam –
Connection of culture, people, textile Social change
▪ Silk – as old as Neolithic age, from China to India
▪ China & India together hold 60% of the world’s silk production
▪ The biggest Agro based industry of our country
▪ Assam – the biggest state in entire NER is known for its exquisite silk namely Eri, Pat and Muga
▪ Assam has the highest number of handloom households in India
▪ “Eri" is derived from the Assamese word “Era", which means “Castor“
▪ One of the various forms of Silk – but produced only in India
▪ Eri silk – A non-violent “AHIMSA SILK”

Assamese Artisans Weave dreams on their looms


- Gandhiji
Eri cocoon Yarn Reeled yarn Weaving Fabrics Final Product

ERI-SILK WEAVING: Unique craftsmanship – warmth of people – versatility – economy of the region
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P R O T E C T I N G FA R M E R S ’ L I V E S A N D T H E E N V I R O N M E N T

C R E AT I N G S O C I A L VA L U E

I N N O VAT I O N → T R A D I T I O N A L P R A C T I C E

natural dyes contain higher


active ingredients of colouring
compounds in concentrated
form
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Te c h n o l o g y
Objectives of the study
Tr a n s f o r m a t i o n
Natural colors in the production of Ahimsa Silk of Assam (Eri-Silk) is known for centuries &
Integration
To
• To apply modern standards in the natural colour production process, Secure Cultural
• To preserve & secure the traditional knowledge of artisans, Heritage
• understand the composition of natural ingredients in the traditional dyeing process
The process adopted can support filing GI patent under the IPA 1970

This study was conducted to evaluate the chief chemical components in the final product of Eri-Silk from
Assam with reference to their summer production

Eri cocoon Yarn Reeled yarn Weaving Fabrics Final Product

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Preparation of Onion Peel Extract
167 g of onion peel + 340 ml of distilled water
Boiled for 30mins in microwave

300 ml of onion peel extract was obtained by filtration

Aqueous phase
Flash Chromatography
was lyophilized
(Yamazen, Japan)
7.05 g of lyophilized
onion peel extract
(powder form)
(4% W/W)
Flash Chromatography Parameters

Gradient separation of Onion peel extract Column Specification: ODS column (L size),
Time Solvent A Solvent B Flow Rate 50µm
(mins) (Milli Q) % (Methanol) % (ml/min) Bed Size: 35g
Solvents: Mobile phase A (MilliQ), Mobile
0-2 80 20 30 phase B (Methanol)
Flow rate: 30 ml/min.
2-7 80 to 10 20 to 90 30
Wave length : 254nm
Lyophilizer 7-12 10 90 30 AUFS: 0.16
(Operon, Korea) Sample: 100 mg of lyophilized extract was
12-14 10 to 80 90 to 20 30 dissolved in 1 ml of MilliQ and injected into
14-16 80 20 30
column
Flash Chromatography-
Gradient

Peaks

Fraction collection

Five Fractions were selected in regard with the peak obtained (F3, F4, F6, F8 & F9)
Subjected for Mass spectrometry analysis for phytochemical constituents
Mass parameters
Mass spectrometer parameters Gradient Separation
Time Solvent A Solvent B Flow
Ionization Source: Electrospray (min) (%) (%) (µl/min)
ionization (ESI)
0.00 70 30 500
Polarity: Positive ion polarity
1.00 70 30 500
Scan: Enhanced Mass Spectrum (EMS)
12.00 20 80 500
Mass Range: 150-600Da
Rate: 1000Da/sec 15.00 20 80 500
16.00 10 30 500
20.00 10 30 500
Standard Preparation

1mg quercetin +1 ml methanol HPLC parameters


(1 mg/ml stock solution) Sample and Standard Processing
Column: Purospher Star C18 (50 x 4.6 mm; 3.5 µm)
Injection volume: 20µl
100 µl of Fractions/standard (1µg/ml)+ 100 µl of ES Column temperature: 25°C
10µl of stock soln + 990 ul of Diluent
(10 µg/ml) Tray temperature: 10°C
Flow rate: 500 ul/min
150 µl of supernatant was analyzed in LC-MS/MS Run Time: 20 min
100 µl of 10 µg/ml + 900 µl of Diluent
(1µg/ml) Mobile phases-
Solvent A: Milli Q water with 0.1% formic acid
Solvent B: Methanol with 0.1% formic acid
Diluent: 70% MeOH +0.1% formic acid (FA);
Extraction Solvent (ES): 70% MeOH +0.1% FA and 25ng/ml SDM
Results of Mass Analysis:
Quercetin F3
m/z 303.2

F4 F6

F8 F9
Quantification of quercetin

Actual Quantity
Sample name RT (min) Peak height (cps) Quantity (ng/mL) µg/mL (18*Fractions)
Quercetin std
10.63 19800000 1000.00 1.00
(1ug/mL)
F3 9.04 1270000 64.14 0.06 1.15

F4 8.86 2620000 132.32 0.13 2.38

F6 No peak 0 0.00 0.00 0.00

F8 8.95 52700000 2661.62 2.66 47.91

F9 8.94 83300000 4207.07 4.21 75.73

Total 7.07 127.17

• Each Fractions contains 18 ml of Eluents


• Each 100 mg of Onion peel extract has 127.17 µg of quercetin
• Percentage of quercetin in onion peel extract is 0.13%
Eri-Silk fiber extract @ 510 nm absorbance (complementary for Pink color)

Cynadin-3-glucoside

Cynadin-3(6-Malonyl glucoside)
Delphinidin-3 glucoside

Quercetin

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SHADES ATTAINED
Onion peel extract + water (Boiling for 10 sec)
Protocol of Dyeing
Addition of Fiber (Boiling for 10 sec)

Addition of 50 mg of Potash alum (Approx) (dipping for 2 mins)

Drying of Silk Fiber


Shades @ different concentration between Onion peel extract and Quercetin
Final Shade Card
Giving New Colors to beautiful stories created by BODO women

• From farm to fabric (creating a full organic production chain)

• generating community-based livelihood, strengthening the village economy and supporting clean and green environment

• Onion peels shows the presence of quercetin (the key component for the color), cyanidin 2- glucoside, cyanidin – 3 (6-malonyl
glucoside) and delphinidin 3- glucoside. Critical concentration of these natural dyes are responsible for the creation of finer
shades

• Further analysis has shown the possibility of creating much finer shades

• This study aims at giving information to the concerned authorities for filing geographical indication (GI) for the benefit of BODO
artisans to get the ethnic patent

• Expected to improve the income and add newer markets for better acceptability

Creating a SOCIAL IMPACT ENTERPRISE that is distinctively progressive in its approach towards
community development, combining traditional skills, current scientific advances, design expertise,
and has a pulse of changing fashion trends for both individual and commercial consumers

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Acknowledgement

High precision Bio-Analytical Laboratory (DST-


FIST sponsored) facility of All India Institute of
Medical Sciences (AIIMS), New Delhi to carry out
the analysis

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THANK YOU

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