Vous êtes sur la page 1sur 70

Nº 59 11€

www.euromodelismo.com
PANZER ACES Nº 59 2019

2 PANZER II F, 1/35
Lukasz Orczyc-Musialek gives us his interpretation of this classic Pz II with a winter camo as
a part of a fantastic diorama. Much in his line of work, he explains the full process in a very
clear sequence of pictures. In these we can see every detail and accessory customary to his
work, which also showcases his trademark painting process using all kinds of mediums and
techniques; like for instance the hairspray technique beautifully employed in this example.

12 PANZER II J, 1/72
Sometimes we publish certain articles because of the overall quality of the model kit, and
sometimes we do it because of the quality of the article itself, and sometimes –and this is
a clear example of it- we do it because we have both a great kit and a fabulous article. To
top it all, the kit is in the 1/72 scale. This is Jordi Cerezo’s debut in Panzer Aces.

20 PANZER I REPUBLICANO. 1/35


Chema Cabrero has written this superb article where you can find a clear and detail
painting process of a Pz I captured during the Spanish Civil War by the Spanish Repub-
lican Army. He has employed different techniques like filters, washes, detail profiling, etc.,
and different mediums; acrylics, oils, color pigments… The perfect companion to a careful
assembly by Orlando Granero of this superb Dragon kit.

30 Panzer II L “Luchs“, 1/72


The assembly and detailing of a kit in this scale isn’t easy. Painting it and not
making it look like a toy is harder still. Antonio Martín has succeeded in both
counts with great skill and he tells us how he’s done it in this wonderful article.

38 BA-6, 1/35
You need a good dose of stubbornness to embark yourself in a project like this. Michel how-
ever doesn’t like to let model kits go to waste and he has fought with this deficient kit and
succeeded in making it look like his real life counterpart. He has resorted to lots of scratchwork
and a number of accessories to succeed. As to the paintwork, he has chosen this unusual
scheme for the BA-6’s and has wrapped it with dampness, mud and snow.

48 T-60, 1/35
This is another trial by fire case in this issue of Panzer Aces: Tomasz
Janiszewski. He has earned it not only because of the daring char-
acter of his project -a scene with a destroyed T-60-, but also because
he explains the entire process quite masterfully, with detailed pic-
tures, narrating the “deconstruction” of this light Soviet AFV and
how he’s managed to paint this out of commission vehicle.

www.euromodelismo.com www.facebook.com/PanzerAces.Magazine
PANZERKAMPFWAGEN II
5./1.Pz.Rgt., 1.Pz.Gren.Div. “LAH”
KHARKOV 1943

/2
DRAGON 1/35
The light Panzerkampfwagen II was one of the pillars of the German Armored forces at the
outset of the war. It was mainly used during the invasion of Poland and France. This vehicle,
also participated but in smaller numbers in Norway, the Balkans and North Africa. It was
also widely used -but briefly- at the Eastern front. Slowly, as the war progressed, the vehicle
was slowly removed from the front lines, but even in 1945 a few units were used during the
final battles of the war.

Lukasz Orczyc-Musialek

3/
THE IDEA
I was involved in a new project called “Aufklarung” and I needed a small vehicle to create some contrast with the building
dominating the scene. The Pz. II was the ideal candidate. Additionally we also have a few famous snapshots of the Pz II 557, 558
and 559 from the LAH Division, taken in the outskirts of Kharkov. There was no way around this; it had to be the Pz. II
The best option for making a Pz II is the Dragon kit (Pz.Kpfw. II ausf. F -6263-). If we spruce it up with the corresponding arti-
culated tracks from Modelkasten, the RB Models antenna, the resin fire extinguisher from Bits Krieg and other P.E. details, we can
get a wonderful kit. In the photographic reference material, we can clearly see the numerals, the unit emblems and the crosses.
Luckily there are decals available for this version. However, I employed the decals on the sheet as templates for hand painting the
numerals increasing a notch the realistic feel.

MARKINGS

1 MATERIALS
EMPLOYED
• Dragon 1/35
Pz.Kpfw. II ausf.F - 6263
• RB Models 2m aerial -
35A02
• Model Kasten
Replacement Working
Track for Pz II - Sk-25
• Bits Krieg Fire
Suppressor for 2cm
KwK 30 L/55
• Plus Model Suite case
set – 113
• Plus Models Oil Tins -
106

1. The kit assembly is delightful; there are no issues worthy of mention. I would simply like
to list the enhanced detailing done with the resin and P.E. pieces.

PAINTING

2 2. All pieces are


temporarily attached to
wooden toothpicks in
order to paint them more
comfortably.

/4
3. All pieces are primed with Chaos Black
3 paint in order to create a perfect surface for
the paint that will come next.

4. The wheels are painted with the help of


the Quick Wheel masking. The rubber part
of the wheels was painted with Dark Gray.

5. The base paint coat is airbrushed Tamiya’s


XF-63 “Panzer Gray”.

6. Gloss varnish is now airbrushed to deal


with unwanted decal gloss. MIcrosol and
Microset decal fixing products are essential
for adapting and fixing decals properly on
any surface.

4 5

6 7

7. In order to be able to make paint chips on the winter


camouflage, I apply first a couple of hairspray coats before
airbrushing the white paint on top of that.
5/
8
8. Tamiya’s XF-2 “White” is dirtied a little bit with
some Tamiya FX-55 “Deck Tan”. This mixture has
been diluted with water instead of the corresponding
thinner in order to be able to do the paint chips easier
in this camouflage.

9-10. As you’ll probably know, in order to make paint


chips when doing the hairspray technique, once the
coat of white paint is dry, we soak the surface that
is going to be chipped and then rub the area with
different tools.

10

/6
11. The next step is to apply a rather dark blue
11 paint filter insisting on the horizontal surfaces.

12. Once the paint filter is dry, I do a few


irregular “stains” using white oil paint.
This creates some contrast with the winter
camouflage. This technique is known as
“mapping”.

COLOR CHART

Tamiya
Panzer grey XF-63, White XF-2, Deck Tan XF-55
Vallejo Model Color Acrylic
Natural Steel 0.864, Gloss Varnish 70.510, White 70.951,
Red Leather 70.818, Black Grey 70.862, Green Grey
70.886, Orange Brown 70.981
Vallejo Acrylics’ Pigments
Charcoal Black 73.116

12

13

13. I also do some


mapping using Vallejo
Acrylics’ 90.951
“White”. With this
medium I obtain
stains with better
defined edges and a
greater opacity
than when
using the oil
paint medium.
14. Detail profiling on all
14 areas is obtained by using
the pinpoint wash technique.
This is done with the same
dark blue dilution employed
for the initial paint filter.
Check the contrast created
everywhere on the AFV.

15. The fire extinguisher is


rubbed with graphite –pencil
lead- in order to give it a
metallic look.

16. Dirt and rust is recreated


with oil paints: Gray, Brown
and Orange. This technique
consists in putting very
small amounts of oil paint
which are then immediately
smeared/melted with a
paintbrush slightly soaked in
enamel thinner.

15

16

17

17. The tracks are primed with black paint like the rest of
the kit, and then these are airbrushed with a mixture of
dark brown hues. Finally, graphite is rubbed in the
friction prone areas.

/8
18

18. I now proceed to put the tracks in


place and glue the wheels. I then add
a little snow. Check out the different
degree of wear on the wheels. In
order to achieve this convincingly,
the hairspray technique is absolutely
necessary.

19

20

19. I like to add accessories from the crews on my vehicles. This was no 20. For recreating the usual fuel stains
exception; I followed the reference photographic material and added a tarp, a around the fuel intake area, “Engine
suitcase, a metallic can, a cardboard box and to compensate, on the other side, Grease” oil paint is the product
a couple of wooden boards and wire to fasten together all these items. The tarp chosen.
has been made with paper soaked with diluted PVC glue and in this way I was
able to adapt it to the accessories that it covers.
21

21. Finally I put in the


turret the figure of the
AFV’s commander.

9/
/ 10
11 /
PANZER II
AUSF. J Rusia 1943

Flyhawk 1/72
The experience accumulated during the September combats in Poland, proved the need for better
protected armored vehicles. That’s why towards the end of 1939, prototype VK 1601 was built,
and after a number of field tests, a manufacturing contract was established for 30 initial units
manufactured by MAN and Daimler-Benz. Finally, 22 units were manufactured between April and
December 1942 before production ceased.

Jordi Cerezo

/ 12
The hull of the vehicle had 80mm thick frontal armoring and 50mm on its sides and rear and similar values in a turret armed
with a 2cm KwK 38 L755 gun and an MG34 machine gun. With a total weight of 18 tons, this was a not too maneuverable
vehicle and a slow one. It was also poorly armed to confront more modern enemy AFV’s so it was basically used as an anti-
partisan rearguard operations vehicle.

THE MODEL KIT


Styrene kit manufactured by Flyhawk (Ref. FH3005) with an vent grilles and pieces like fender/mudguard supports. The tracks
excellent quality, both in its packaging –with its sprues perfectly are segmented, with no trace of mold ejector marks or flash of any
organized and protected on the inside of the box- and the detailing kind with an excellent finish, including the hole for the original
of its pieces. The fitting is perfect. It includes P.E. pieces for the gear teeth.

1 2

1-2. Overview of the vehicle, were we can see the 3. In order to break the symmetry of the vehicle, I chose
improvements made to it. to remove the frontal section of the right hand mudguard
and damage slightly the left one. While at it, I took the
opportunity to trim the pieces down using different grit
3 sandpaper.
4. One of the few defects of this kit is the absence of
welding lines both on the hull and turret. In the picture we
can see, how these were recreated in three different ways.
1. By softening the plastic using liquid glue and marking
the welding lines with an old knife with a broken tip.
2. Using two part putty and marking the weld line with
3. Using thin Plasticard strips glued on the vehicle, and
softening those also with liquid glue and using an old knife
to press the welding lines into it.

5. The weapons
4 5 have been
improved by
replacing the
styrene barrel
of the L55
for a hollow
0.8X0.4mm
metal tube and
a reproduction
in metal of
the MG34
manufactured by
Aber (Ref. L-33).

13 /
PAINTING
The proposal here is to make a vehicle of
6
the 13 Verstärkte PolizeiPanzer-Kompanie
in the Panzer Gray color and place it on a
slightly slanted base.

6. We cover the vehicle with XF-2


“White” with the aim of detecting
assembly defects. Once the kit has
been thoroughly revised, we make
some shading using XF1 “Black” to
enhance the volumes of the vehicle.
7. The base color is made with a
diluted mixture of XF-63 “German
Gray”, XF-20 “Matt Gray” and XF-8
“Matt Blue” in approximately this
proportion: 70+25+5. In order to
avoid the grainy texture of paint, in
addition to properly diluting paint,
I have the habit of “sweeping” the
7
painted surfaces with an old round
tipped paintbrush between each coat.
8. Two consecutive highlights adding
XF-2 White to the previous mixture
are now applied, increasing the
amount of XF-2 to the mixture and
applied in ever diminishing areas and
of course in the opposite places from
where the shading is located in the
panel itself.
9. Acrylic paint is now used to
enhance by hand different parts of the
vehicle. Although we’re looking for
colors similar to those airbrushed, the
fact that these are slightly different
increases the color range on an
originally single-colored vehicle.

8 9

/ 14
10. Appearance of the kit once the
base color has been applied and before 10
the weathering processes has been
undertaken.
11. After airbrushing the wheels
with a mixture of “Rubber Tires and
“NATO Black”, we use the panzer
gray on the tire. Using stencils can
be quite useful for this, making the
process much faster and cleaner.
12. X-22 Gloss Varnish is now
airbrushed and the decals are fixed
in place. A new coat of gloss varnish
somewhat conceals the film of the
decals and protects the kit from the
weathering processes that will follow.

11 12

13

14

13. Pinpoint washes using “Dark Streaking Grime” and “OIF & 14. Superficial paint chips with Vallejo’s “Light
OEF Streaking Effects”. The first product –the darker one- gives us Blue Gray” are now made. A fine paintbrush is
depth and the second one, a grayish hue creating a dirt effect that used to create paint scratches and pecks on the
is quite pleasant to the eyes. paintjob. In those areas more subject to wear
such as the commander’s hatch we have a greater
accumulation of paint chips, applied with an old
paintbrush with trimmed bristles.
15 /
15

16

17

15. The deeper paint chips are recreated with a


mixture of German C. Black Brown and Black both
by Vallejo.

16. In order to recreate wood, an acrylic base of


Vallejo’s Ochre Brown is first applied and then
some depth is created with Abt006 “Burnt Umber”
oil paint and True Metal’s aluminum.

17. Subtle dirt streaks are now made on the


vertical and sloped surfaces using “Wash for
NATO Vehicles” enamel.

18. A few minutes afterwards, these streaks are


18 blended using Zippo gas. These streaks should
only be hinted, and serve for breaking the color of
the surface.

19. Dirt on the lower areas of the hull is recreated


by applying dry pigments “European Earth” and
“Dark Earth”. The second one, being the darker
color is mainly applied on the creviced areas.

20. After the pigments are fixed with the Pigment


Fixer product, we make a few vertical lines with a
19 brush impregnated with Zippo gas. This will make
the pigment dissolve with the brushstroke, making
quite convincing dirt streaks. Zippo gas dries
pretty fast, helping control the process better.

20

/ 16
23

21

20. Using a mixture of “Light Dust Deposit” and “Rainmarks”,


splashes are made along the sides of the hull.

22

21. Using enamels “Fuel Stains”, “Engine Grime” and “Wet 22. The tracks are now covered with a base coat of
Effects”, light streaks are distributed throughout in a random way German C. Black Brown acrylic and on top of that
along the sides. a wash of English Uniform as you can see on the
left track. Now we apply these randomly and fix
23. Dirt on the them with Pigment Fixer, as can be seen on the
hull and turret left track.
is made by
first applying a
highly diluted
coat of XF-52
on the lower
area of the
planks and
around the 24
turret’s ring.
24. An old
paintbrush 25
impregnated
with Zippo
gas is used
for applying 27
small amounts
of “European
25. On the slanted and vertical surfaces,
Earth” and
streaks are made using “Light Dust Deposit”,
“Dark Earth”
“Rainmarks” and a mixture of both. Afterwards,
pigment on
these are smeared with a paintbrush impregnated
the base of the
with White Spirit.
hull. Then,
the pigments 26
26. On the horizontal surfaces “Light Dust
are dragged
Deposit” and “Rainmarks” concentric stains
upwards
are now made. In order to increase the contrast
doing vertical
between the areas adjacent to the turret’s ring, we
brushstrokes
apply “Brown Earth Deposit” pigments.
with the
impregnated
paintbrush.

17 /
28

29

28. The high amount of “Light Dust Deposit” and


30 “Brown Earth Deposit” pigments will allow us to
(after the thinner has dried) smear these stains
using an old paintbrush with trimmed bristles.

29. In order to recreate oil, gas and grease


remains; enamels “Fuel Stains”, “Engine Oil” and
“Wet Effects Fluid” are used at this point.

30. The work done on the hull is now done on


the turret but in a much more subtle way.

31. The wheels have received the same


treatment applied to the lower areas of the hull,
recreating in this case grease stains done here
with “Bitumen” oil paint which can be applied
undiluted. On the areas where the friction
with the tracks and the idler and other wheels
happens, and also where the tracks’ teeth
acts, graphite or soft pencil lead is used for the
polished metal effect.

32. The exhaust is painted with German C. Black


31 Brown and an old paintbrush is used for dotting
the surface with orange and brown acrylics.
The soot created by the combustion gases is
obtained by burning a piece of leftover sprue put
on a metal piece in order to be able to use the
combustion residue.

33. Oil and gas remains sputtered by the exhaust


are recreated with a line of “Engine Oil” enamel.

32 33

/ 18
34 35

33. The tow cable piece is perhaps the worst


piece of the kit. That’s why I decided to make
this piece from scratch. A hypodermic needle
is used for piercing the rings to fix the trussed
copper wire cable.

34. Picture of the rear of the vehicle after the


tow cable has been finished and put in place.

36 37

35. Diluted PVC glue is now used for gluing small natural leaves
randomly distributed throughout the AFV –increasing the amount in all
its crevices- as it would occur in nature.

36. I usually include extra items on my


vehicles for added interest and as an
element for breaking symmetry. In this
case, I made some tarps with A+B putty
and also added a jerrycan. It is highly
advisable for these extra items to have
a justified presence; to make sure that
gravity affects them naturally and also
to make sure that they are not
irrationally loose.
Pz I Ausf A

Dragon 1/35
/ 20 By: Chema Cabrero Assembly: Orlando Barn
CAPTURED PZ I AUSF A. SPANISH CIVIL
WAR. ARMY OF THE REPUBLIC.
The Panzer I was a light tank produced by the IIIrd Reich in the 1930’s. “Panzer I”
is the short version of the German full name Panzerkampfwagen I (Armored combat
vehicle model I) abbreviated to PzKpfw I. The designation of the German military
vehicle inventory for this tank was Sd.Kfz. 101.1

The design of the Panzer I Germany after the end of WWI. sions worked in pretty much the
began in 1932 and began to be In 1932 The specifications for a same way. Attempts were made to
mass produced in 1934. Initially 5 ton light armored tank were improve its armoring or make
destined to be just a training created and then sent to the it transportable for aerial
tank in order to introduce the Rheinmetall, Krupp, Henschel, transport operations. When this
concept of armored warfare; MAN and Daimler Benz manufac- vehicle was replaced, the Panzer
the Panzer I fought in Spain turers. In 1933 the Krupp design I was already obsolete for all
during the Spanish Civil War, based on the British Carden- combat situations and their
and then Poland, France, the Lloyd tank (two units of this frames were repurposed for
Soviet Union and North Africa vehicle were bought in secret other uses, such as ammunition
during WWII and China during from the USSR) was finally carriers or training machines
the Second Chino-Japanese War. adopted. for drivers.
The experience gathered with The treaty of Versailles for- The Panzer I had 13mm of
the Panzer I during the Spanish bade Germany from producing slightly bent steel all around,
Civil War, helped define the armored vehicles, so these pri- with 8mm in the upper part of
invasion of Poland in 1939 and mitive versions received the name the turret and 6mm in the upper
the French one in 1940 by the “Landwirtschaftlicher Schlepe” and lower areas of its hull. This
German Armored Forces. In 1941, (Agricultural tractors). The armoring was enough to stop the
the frame of the Panzer I was design was modified towards the bullets from rifles and machine
used to manufacture tank des- end of 1933 to combine the Krupp guns, but inefficient against
troyers and assault guns. There frame with the Daimler Benz weapons of a greater caliber
were several attempts to improve turret. The resulting vehicle such as antitank rifles and
the Panzer I during its term of was called Panzer I Ausf A and antitank guns. Even the con-
service –even by other nations- began production in July 1934. tinuous fire of a machine gun
to stretch the service and use The original Panzer I was could damage and jam the ring
of its original design. In the designed as a light reconnais- of the turret.
Spanish Armed Forces this tank sance tank and for infantry The Ausf A was the first pro-
remained in service all the way backup labors. However, the duction model and 818 units were
into 1954. most important goal regar- manufactured between July 1934
The combat performance of the ding its development was to and June 1936 by Daimler-Benz,
Panzer I was limited because of provide a vehicle for training Henschel, Krupp and MAN.
its thin armoring and light wea- and forming a German armored The Panzer I first saw combat
ponry, which consisted of only force. The Panzer I had to be in 1936 during the Spanish Civil
two machine guns. Being just a replaced in the Panzer Divi- War as a part of the German
training vehicle, the Panzer I sions as soon as possible for forces helping rebel General
wasn’t as powerful as other light other tanks designed specifi- Franco. A formation center
tanks of the era like for ins- cally for combat, although as for drivers was established in
tance the Soviet T-26. In spite it eventually happened at the Cáceres in the castle of the
of this, the Panzer I formed a outbreak of WWII, the Panzer I Arguijuelas de Abajo and in
significant part of Germany’s still had an important role to the castle of the Arguijuelas
tank force and was used in all play in these units because of de Arriba under the command of
the main campaigns between Sep- the delays in developing more Colonel Wilhelm Von Thoma. The
tember 1939 and December 1941. advanced vehicles. Panzer I had inferior engine
This small and vulnerable light Two main variants of the power and firepower compared
tank was superseded by better Panzer I were manufactured. to the Soviet BT-5 and T-26 used
known German tanks like the The original PzKpfw I had by the Army of the Republic.
Panzer IVs, Panthers and Tigers. very little power and was soon During the war this inferiority
However, the contribution of the replaced by the PzKpfw I B, was made obvious and this led to
Panzer I to the first victories with a more powerful engine the rearming some units with a
of Germany during WWII was and other improvements. The Breda gun.
quite significant. model B was somewhat longer
The Panzer I was the first and had an additional wheel; as
tank design to be produced in for everything else, both ver-

21 /
ASSEMBLY

1. The Dragon kit has a high level


of detailing, with the sight ports
molded in transparent plastic
1
and a great definition even in the
welding lines, which are pretty
realistic and in perfect scale.
The detail of the tools included
with this kit is rather good, with
exquisite details like the electric
wire for the horn.

2. The kit also includes a small P.E.


sheet with the exhaust covers and
the rear grilles for the vents.

3. We’ve just replaced the


MG’s included in the kit
for the Modelkasten ones.
All pieces fit wonderfully
together and putty hasn’t
been necessary at all.

4. The tracks are finely


3 detailed, and are made in
separate track links, that
should be manipulated
carefully because of the
frailty inherent to their small
size.

/ 22
PAINTING

5. First we apply a base coat of dark


gray paint doing some pre-shading.
The mixture contains Vallejo’s 71005 5
“Intermediate Gray” and 71052
“Panzer Gray”. We should be careful
and avoid working in a hurry, because
there are many areas difficult to
reach, that must also be fully covered
with paint.

6. We now paint the green base coat


as observed in some vehicles captured
during the Battle of Madrid. The
mixture employed here is Vallejo
Model Air’s 71009 “Duck Egg” and
71017 “Russian Green” with a few
drops of gloss varnish in order to
obtain a satin finish, ideal for the
paint treatments to follow, such
as melting paint, paint filters and
washes.

7. When dry, we apply on the frontal 6


glacis, the slogan made with dry
transfers. I designed these transfers
myself using Macromedia Freehand
and calculating the size of the text
using reference period pictures.

8. In order to create a first statement


of operational wear, we’ll employ
the paint filter technique, in this case
using Sin Industries’ P242 “Tan for
Tritonal Camo” and P241 “Brown for
Dark Yellow”. We should remember
that a paint filter is used for altering
the nuances of the previous color in
a uniform way, and this is different
from a paint wash, that acts in
specific areas, enhancing details like
rivets, screws or sunken lines.

23 /
29-30. Now we’ll switch to oils,
creating subtle wear and tear effects
on moveable parts such as hinges,
hatches, etc. We can use oil paints
creating a patina by melting small
amounts on the kit in the usual
manner, soaking previously the
surface with thinner and mixing
everything later with a flat tipped
paintbrush.

30
2
29

31. If we want to
31
tell apart small
pieces or other
components we can
also use oil paints
for drybrushing,
obtaining subtle
and very interesting
results.

32. The tracks


are painted rather
fast using MIG
Productions’ “Dark
Wash”. The small 2
size of these tracks
allows us to resort
to this and get a
convincing finish.
Once the tracks are
dry, we apply a light
wash using MIG
Prods. “Light Rust
Effects”.

32 33

33. Now we carefully paint the smaller details like


34
tools and other accessories by hand using Vallejo
Model Color acrylics.

34. Now we’ll use MIG Pro’s “Dark Wash” to


enhance details like rivets, screws and sunken
lines, adding at the same time a shading, dirt and
depth effect to the kit. We previously soak the
surface of the kit, and this will help the wash flow
unhindered by capillarity around the details that
will be enhanced… We work slowly, removing
excess product using a clean brush.

/ 24
35 36

37

35. The final effect should be subtle and without sudden changes in hue. This would fully
ruin the paintjob…
36. In order to recreate the effects of rust on the protective grille for the exhaust, we’ll
use Vallejo Model Color’s “Dark Brown Camo” Vallejo Model Air’s “Ochre” and MIG
Prods. color pigment “Standard Rust”. We can use a small sponge for recreating
the smaller paint chips.
37. The exhausts are painted in a rusty orange hue justified by the high
temperatures and the thinness of the metal in it. Rubbed dry pigments
will be applied with a flat tipped brush for finishing this piece. We
should remember that the exhaust tube length going into the interior
of the engine was covered with
rubber insulation so this
section can’t have rust!
38

39

38. The deterioration in these


areas must follow a certain kind 39. When recreating scratches
of logic, and must be located in and other imperfections revealing
the proper places, avoiding unreal naked and rusted metal, Vallejo
symmetry and watching the size of Model Color’s 70822 “German
these areas which tends to be never Black Brown Camo” is the perfect
generally small enough. color to do this.
25 /
40. In order to get a first
40
statement dirt effect, we’ll
use a mixture of several
Vallejo Model Air paints.

41. A logical criteria


for applying dirt on an
operational vehicle should
be followed. We’ll use our
airbrush, placing light coats
of this mixture, combining
this work with the dry
pigments we’ll apply later.
We should be very subtle
when doing this effect,
and try not to cover the
previous painting work.

42

41

43

42-43. We’ll prepare a pigment


mixture using MIG Prods.
“Beach Sand”, “European
Dust” and “Brick Dust”.

44. This mixture will be applied


to the undercarriage, tracks
and lower areas of the kit. It
will also be used –although
in smaller quantities- for the
horizontal surfaces.

44

/ 26
45 COLOR CHART

VALLEJO MODEL COLOR


German Black Brown Camo 70822
VALLEJO MODEL AIR
Intermediate Grey 71005, Panzer Grey
71052, Duck Egg 71009, Russian
Green71017, White 71001, US Flat
Brown 71026, Light Brown 71027,
Ochre 71033
Gloss Varnish 70510
SIN INDUSTRIES
Tan for Tritonal Camo P242, Brown for
Dark Yellow P241
OILS 502 ABTEILUNG
Abt.155 German Three – Tone Fading,
45. We’ll employ Abt.050 Olive green, Abt.092 German
now MIG Prods. Ochre, Abt.090 Industrial Earth
“Oil and Grease MIG PRODUCTIONS
Stains” for Thinner for Washes
recreating those Dark wash
stains around the Light Rust Effects
wheel axles and Oil and Grease Stains
the screws.
PIGMENTS MIG PRODUCTIONS
Light Rust P024, Stardart Rust P025,
46. We’ll finish
Europe Dust P028, Brick Dust P029,
by using graphite
Beach Sand P030, Fresh Rust P416.
–pencil lead- for
doing the friction-
polished metal 46
surfaces created by
Thanks to Orlando
transit or passing
“Barn” for his help during
crews.
the assembly process
/ 28
29 /
Panzerspähwagen
Luchs II
Flyhawk 1/72
Battlefield experience
forced the German Army
to create a reconnaissance
vehicle on tracks and
true all-terrain abilities.
The MAN Company was
given the commission for
said vehicle; called Luchs
(lynx) drawing from
their previous experience
of creating a few light
Panzers. On April 1942
the first Luchs prototype
was introduced and an
initial command of 131
vehicles was made,
eventually growing to
800. The first 100 vehicles
coming out of the factory
had to be equipped with
the 2cm Kw.K.38 gun
and the remainder with
the 5cm Kw.K L/60. At
the end of the day, only
the first 100 Luchs were
assembled between
September of 1942 and
January 1944. All of
them carried the 2cm
gun and the remainder of
the production run was
thereafter cancelled.

Antonio Martín Tello

/ 30
The official designation for this vehicle changed a little during its development. The main two designations were “PanzerKam-
pfwagen II Ausf. L (Luchs)” or “Panzerspähwagen II (Sd.Kfz 123)”. Lightly armored and armed, the Luchs was a fast vehicle,
with a top speed of 60 km per hour (45 km per hour in long distance road marching or 30 Km/hour in the open field) and an
outstanding All-Terrain performance.
The Luchs debuted both on the Eastern and Western Fronts. On the first one it became a part of the 4th Panzer-Division,
while the 9th Panzer-Division used the vehicle in the Normandy campaign, losing all its vehicles towards the final days of August
of 1944. There are small differences between the Luchs vehicles used on both fronts. The kit featured in this article recreates one
of the Luchs of the 9th Panzer-Division in France.

THE KIT
Luckily for modelers, the Luchs is well represented in kit form. A It is quite satisfactory to see how relatively modern brands are
long time ago, Tasca (now Asuka) launched two wonderful models capable of launching products of such a fine quality. This is clearly
representing each the Eastern and Western Front varieties of this the Flyhawk’s cases that in having only a fistful of kits the company
small vehicle. Recently, Classy Hobby has produced two excellent has obtained a well-deserved reputation in the 1/72 scale military
Luchs in the 1/16 scale and Flyhawk and Maco have different kits in vehicle market.
the 1/72 scale. After reading a few reviews online, I decided to give MATERIALS EMPLOYED
Flyhawk’s “Normandy Version” a try (Prod. Ref. FH3002S).
• Luchs, Flyhawk FH3002S 1/72
• 2cm Flakvierling 38 RB MODELS 72B14
• Mástil Antena RB MODELS 72A01

The box also includes a small


P.E. sheet with the engine
vents, the jerrycan supports
for the turret, the rods for the
“Star Antenna” and other small
details such as the hooks for
lifting the turret. All of this
gives the kit a delightful finesse.

The tracks for the Luchs are of the


“Link and Length” type, which
basically means that you have
lengths for the upper and lower
areas and loose track links to cover
the idler wheels and pinch rollers.
Evidently, the track links are quite
small and the assembly should be
done carefully, but with a little
patience and skill, we can get
excellent results.
I also used a metal
gun taken from
the RB Models’ I did a number of It has been a while since I put together a kit in a small scale
Flakvierling set and improvements, like adding and I must say that this Luchs has been a rather pleasant expe-
the antenna mast the wires for the headlights,
which is also from RB
rience. Overall, everything fits correctly and there are no com-
or replacing the handles on plications in the assembly process, other than the difficulties
Models. the hatches for pieces made derived of working in such a small scale with very small pieces.
out of thin wire.
31 /
PAINTING

The painting process for this small kit is no different from the process followed in larger kits. We only have to be more precise and try
to do some effects like paint chips and such in a more subtle way and in proper scale.

We start by applying a base paint


obtained by mixing the “Dark
Yellow” and “White” primers.
By doing this the primer coat will
also be the initial color for the
kit where later on we’ll apply
the camouflage scheme. For the
green color I mixed XF-68 “Olive
Green” with XF-21, and for the
brown color I employed XF-64
with XF-60. The Tamiya acrylics
diluted with Gaianotes’ “Laquer
Thinner”.
In every case, the proportion of
the colors used is approximate. I
simply created colors that I was
happy with, but clearly trending
towards lighter hues. I think that
this is important, because in a kit
especially if it is in a small scale it
is convenient to give it an overall
lightness considering also the fact
that with the paint treatments
that will follow, the overall tone
will end up being considerably
darker.

Afterwards I covered the kit with


a coat of Vallejo’s gloss varnish,
in order to adequately prepare
the surface for decals. The decal
sheet employed comes in the box,
and I secured the decals using
the Microsol and Microset decal
fixer products with satisfactory
results throughout. Once the
decals were dry I applied another
coat of gloss varnish with a double
intent. On one hand I wanted to
protect the decals from the later
paint processes and on the other
hand I wanted to prepare the kit
for those processes. Most of the
weathering work and such will
be carried out with oil paints and
the specific thinner products for
this paint do not react with the
previous acrylic coat and do flow
a lot better on a non-porous and
glossy surface

/ 32
The first one of these
treatments consists in
applying a couple of
paint filters made by
diluting a little bit of
ochre oil paint with
enamel thinner. The
dilution should be of
approximately 90%.
This basically amounts
to tinted thinner, to be
applied throughout the
kit –without making
puddles- altering
slightly the previous
paint coat and starting
thus the weathering
process integrating the
camouflage colors and
the decals.

I continued with an oil treatment with sand,


ochre, orange, gray, white hues… What we’re
looking for here is creating some weathering
and change slightly the hue of the base color. I
worked on a few small areas at a time, applying
a tiny dot of oil paint and then melting it and
smearing it in the usual manner. This may be a
laborious process, but you have a better control
over the application of oil paint.

In this kit, paint chips


have been made in two
distinct phases. First
I painted the more
superficial scratches,
affecting only the
outermost coat of paint
or the camouflage colors
only, using a color similar
to the German yellow but
a bit toned down. Then
I used “German C. Black
Brown 822” for doing the
deepest ones reaching the
metal surface underneath.
Often, paint chips are
“concentric” recreating
a progressive removal of
the paint layers.

33 /
2. An effective trick
1 2
for doing this is to start
the rust streaks on one
of the paint chips made
during the previous
phase, or painting
extremely subtle stains
with rust hues around
the paint chips on the
horizontal areas.
3. You can also shade
the recesses or the
3 lower areas of some
spots by darkening
these areas with a dark
brown or a sepia hue.

1. I went back to the oil paint palette using sepia, dark brown
hues and rust colors. This time we’ll try to recreate dirt and
rust painted in streaks for the vertical surfaces or irregular
stains for the horizontal ones, but always faint and not well
marked.

4 5

4-5. I then painted the tools and exhaust. For the former I used several colors 6. Oil paint splashes with these colors
and pigments in rust, brown and gray hues. We have to dot the surface with are also made, by flicking with our
these colors in order to increase the color range and create a sort of rugged finger the tip of a stiff bristled brush
texture. Pigments are ideal for this. on the areas close to the exhaust
masking the area to avoid splashing
unwanted areas as well. By doing
this we can get a very
interesting “pierced
metal” effect.
7. The jerrycans on the turret were
7 8
painted in different colors; one in green
with paint chips made with a fine
paintbrush and some drybrushing along
its edges using “German C. Black Brown
822”.

8. The other one is worse for wear and


was painted with primer red, and then
I covered it with hairspray. Then, I
drybrushed some of Vallejo’s “German
C. Black Brown 822”along its edges. In
both jerrycans I applied a slight Sepia oil
paint wash with brown for integrating
the colors previously applied.

/ 34
9. I also painted at this stage the tracks and
the rubber part of the wheels using Vallejo’s
black paint. Painting the tracks when these
are already assembled on the kit is very
delicate work that needs no hurry, a lot of
patience and a fine brush. You should not
leave visible recesses unpainted, and even if
this can be difficult, particularly on the idler
wheels and roller pins paint must be applied
carefully. Once painted, I worked the tracks
with rust colored and gun metal pigments,
trying not to cover the rubber part of the
wheels. A soft leaded pencil was used for the
9
outermost edges of the tracks and the teeth
of the idler wheels in order to imitate friction
polished metal.

10. Dirt was applied mostly using color


pigments. These were used in different
colors and were applied with a small brush
on the area behind the tracks and on top of
these and in smaller amounts on the wheels.
Pigments were impregnated with thinner
or fixer and once dry, grease and humidity
stains were made on the bogies of some
wheels using sepia, dark brown and black
highly diluted (with enamel thinner) oil
10 paints.

12

11

11. Mud splashes were also recreated by flicking a 12. I finished the work here by doing some detail profiling on
stiff bristled paintbrush impregnated in a mixture of panel lines and around screws, hinges or fastenings using highly
pigments and thinner. It is highly recommended to diluted black oil paint applied on these areas which had been
practice first with both the amount of paint on the previously soaked with thinner. This is always a very visual
paintbrush and the dilution of paint in order to splash effect that enhances the features of the vehicle beautifully. The
small drops of paint and get a subtle effect. kit is now ready for receiving dirt.

As a final touch, I decided to add


a figure. This figure is from the
Scale 75 brand, specifically one
taken from prod. Ref. SW72-001,
and is simply superb. I painted
it as if I was painting a figure
in the 1/35 scale and used my
airbrush kit for applying previous
highlights and shadows on the
pants and face of the figure as a
first statement. The rest of the
work was mainly applying highly
diluted acrylic paint veils, pretty
much like you’ll do in a larger
figure.
COLOR CHART

GAIANOTES
Laquer Thinner
TAMIYA
Mato Brown XF-68, Sky XF-21, Red Brown XF-64,
Dark Yellow XF-60
VALLEJO ACRILICS
Gloss Varnish, German C. Black Brown 70.822
MICROSCALE
Microsol and Microset
OILS
Arena, Ocre, Naranja, Gris, Blanco, Negro,
Sepia, Marrón
PIGMENTS
Óxido, Gun Metal

The upper area is covered with


pigments applied dry using a
small paintbrush in a subtle
and highly controlled way. In
crevices and some horizontal
surfaces, like fenders/mudguards
pigments will accumulate in
greater amounts. After doing this
the kit is considered as finished.

/ 36
37 /
BA-6
Eastern Express 1/35
The BA-6 is an armored vehicle developed by the Soviets from the model BS-3 between the years
1936 and 1939. 386 units were manufactured. Its frame was the exact same one employed for the
three axle GAZ AAA trucks. This model did away with the rear door, traded the traditional wheels
for the “GK” ones that were filled with porous rubber, giving these mobility even when hit by
light weapons or after being punctured. The engine was better cooled, the frontal suspension was
also reinforced and auxiliary chains were included for covering the wheels in the rear axles;
improving considerably the vehicle’s mobility. This vehicle weighed 5.12 tons and measured 4.9
meters long, it was 2.07 meters wide and 2.36 meters high. 8mm was the thickest armoring,
and it was armed with a 45mm 20-K gun and two 7.62mm DT machine guns. It had a 4 cylinder
GAZ-A gasoline engine with a 40 HP power and a maximum speed of 52km/h and an operational
range of 248km. The BA-6 vehicles were used in the Spanish Civil War, the battle of Jalkin Gol
against the Japanese, in Finland and of course in the Soviet Union against the German Army who in
turn captured and used several of these units.

By Michel Pérez
/ 38
39 /
THE MODEL KIT
This is product reference 35127 by Eas- ones at best and most rivet lines are in went for it, hook, line and sinker… but
tern Express. This is a pretty awful kit, it point of fact missing. A modelers’ dream. the river bed was dry. If you want to make
has serious fitting issues, it has a lot of The thing is that I have a hard time rejec- this vehicle, I recommend getting instead
flash, the wheels are similar to the real ting presents especially model kits, so I Hobby Boss’ ref. no. 83839.

ASSEMBLY
1. The first thing I had to do was to
1 make all the rivet lines missing from this
horrible kit. I searched online for specs
and plans; I drew the location of the
rivets on mi kit and glued these patiently.
2. I also did a few improvements on the
turret; I added some screws, welding
lines where needed and repeated the
process on the driver’s post where it was
needed as well. I only had to follow the
plans. The gun is a homemade turned
aluminum piece.
3. The original frontal bumper is way
too thick, so I had to rebuild it using
Plasticard. I dented the frontal left
mudguard/fender and left out the one
on the other side, to customize my kit
making it less symmetrical and more
dramatic.

2 3

4. I replaced the plastic handles on


4
doors and trap doors for new ones
made out of copper wire; I also rebuilt
the foot rests underneath the doors
using aluminum and wire. I added
leftover P.E. cutout straps on the sides
where the chains for the wheels were
kept.

MATERIALS EMPLOYED

• BA-6 Eastern Express ref. 35127


• Wheels for GAZ-AAA Miniart ref.
35112
• Tracks for BA-6 Hauler HLU35045

/ 40
PAINTING

5. I wanted to do something original,


because this armored vehicle isn’t
exactly novel, so I found a curious
5
green and brown camouflage from
an unknown unit operating in the
Leningrad front. The base green
color is “Splinter Strips 348” from
Vallejo’s Panzer Aces Acrylic series.
Although this paint is designed
to be used with a paintbrush, if
conveniently diluted with the
brand’s own thinner you can use it
on your airbrush. The brown hue is
347 “Splinter Blotches II” from the
same series and brand.

6-7. I did a discreet enhancement of


the overall shapes of the vehicle by
doing soft highlights and shadows.
I added some 975 “Military Green”
from the AV Model Color series
for doing the shadows, and for the
highlights I added PA AV’s 343
“Shadow Flesh”.

8. I usually do some detail


profiling of all salient features
by doing pinpoint washes,
using highly diluted “Black
Smoke” oil paint. First,
I soak the working surface
with “Odorless Enamel Thinner”
(A.MIG-2019), and then with a fine
paintbrush I apply the oil paint.

41 /
9-10. In order to further enhance the
9 10
features I used this technique along with
the drybrushing one, applying it to the
edges of all the features that had been
previously profiled. I used colors PA AV’s
329 “Highlights Russian Tanker” for the
green areas and PA AV’s 339 Highlight
Ge.II for the brown ones.
11-12. I painted superficial paint chips
using the same colors employed for
drybrushing. Here we can clearly see the
advantage of using the same kind of paint
for the base coat and later in processes like
drybrushing or paint chipping.
11 12
13-14. The deeper paint chips are painted
with PA AV’s 70.822 “German Camo
Black Brown”. Afterwards I decided to
give these colors a bit more warmth, so I
applied a paint filter using A.MIG’s 1510
“Tan for 3 Tone Camo”.
15-16. In order to recreate dirt stains,
I resorted to doing acrylic washes,
employing specifically AV’s 76.521 “Oiled
Earth”, 76.516 “Gray” and 76.512 “Dark
14 Green”. The method consists in drawing
irregular spots with a paintbrush and work
along the edges of each stain with a dry
brush. The superimposing of the stains
gives a great richness and opacity, making
it all look like real dirt. This is a slow
process that needs to be made in several
different coats allowing drying each one
thoroughly. It is advisable to work with a
very little paint load on your brush.
17-18. Then, I tried to recreate some paint
13 weathering; the loss of intensity of the
original color that can be achieved with the
oil “melting” technique. Once the working
15 16
surface had been soaked with A.MIG’s
2019 “Odorless Enamel Thinner” I applied
small oil paint dots; white and ochre for
the green areas and ochre and reddish
brown for the brown areas. Afterwards
I melted these colors using a flat tipped
brush, doing vertical brushstrokes for
the walls of the vehicle and circular
brushstrokes for the horizontal surfaces
like the roof and the hood.

17 18

/ 42
20

19

19-20. In order to recreate mud


21 22
accumulated on the lower areas of
the vehicle I employed the splashing
technique. First I splashed a mixture
of light colored pigments agglutinated
with A.MIG’s 2019 “Odorless Enamel
Thinner” and then I used “Wet Mud”
1705 and “Moist Ground” 1703 both
from A.MIG to obtain more volume
and create the feel of damp mud.
21-22. I also drew more stains, this
time using the splashing technique 23 24
and Titan’s “Sepia” oil paint. Unlike
the acrylic staining, splashed oil paint
gives less opaque results and more
diffused edges for the stain itself. In
this case I also did some retouching as
needed using a paintbrush. Preferably,
this effect has to be made in several
paint coats, superimposing stains
and leaving each to dry separately.
The dilution of oil paint, the loading
and the shape of the paintbrush, the
distance and angle of the splash, will 25
give you very different results, and it
just takes some practice. 26

23-24. Since I began this model kit,


I was determined to put it in a very
humid environment, with thawing
snow and water trails streaking
along its vertical surface. In order to
recreate this effect I used AV’s 26230
“Still Water” thinned with water to
kill some of its gloss.
25 to 27. Recreating small patches of
snow is pretty easy with Landscapes
in Detail’s products: Lands101/1
Hard Snow, Lands101/2 Dust 27
Snow, Lands101/3 Spring Snow and
Lands101/4 Moist Snow. I also worked
on the snow with AV’s 26230 “Still
Water” for agglutinating and fixing
it perfectly and giving it a gloss for a
proper damp effect.

43 /
The tree trunks give the kit an additional point of visual In order to create a slight visual unbalance, I only used a
interest. The snow on the trunks also enhances this feeling of single frontal fender, which I covered with mud, creating
dampness. The trunks are real branches and have been treated yet another point of visual interest.
with oil paint washes. The snow patches on the chains are
also important for recreating the overall feel that I intended.

The camouflage
branches are made with
asparagus plant but
represent coniferous
branches. These have
been generously
airbrushed with
A.MIG’s 932 “Russian
Green Base”. Vinyl
paint creates a sort of
film preventing the
fall of the delicate
asparagus plant leaves.
The improvised
camouflage, so frequent
in the front lines, also
With the same intention of avoiding symmetry
adds credibility.
and create points of visual interest, on the right
side I kept the fender but omitted the spare wheel.
Additionally the splashes in this side are completely
different.

/ 44
COLOR CHART
Primer: Mr Surfacer 1200 Drybrushed Highlights: Highlights Russian Oil Paints: Sepia de Titán
Base Color: Splinter Strips 348 serie Panzer Tanker 329 PA AV, Highlight Ge.II 339 PA Humedades: 26230 Still Water AV
Aces Acrílicos Vallejo AV Mud: Wet Mud A.MIG. 1705, Moist Ground
Shadows: Base + Military Green 975 Model Paint Filter: Tan for 3 tone Camo A.Mig- A.MIG. 1703
Color Acrílicos Vallejo 1510 Snow: Landscapes in Detail: Lands101/1
Highlights: Base + Highlights Russian Light Paint chips: Highlights Russian Hard Snow, Lands101/2 Snow Dust,
Tanker 329 PA AV Tanker 329 PA AV, Highlight Ge.II 339 PA Lands101/3 Spring Snow, Lands101/4 Damp
Camouflage: Splinter Blotches II 347 PA AV Dark Paint Chips: German Cam. Black Snow
Camouflage Highlights: Base + Highlights Brown 70.822 MC AV
Flesh 342 PA AV STAINS:
Camouflage Shadows: Base + Shadow Acrylics: Washes AV: Oiled Earth 76.521,
Flesh 343 PA AV Grey 76.516, Dark Green 76.512
Detail Profiling: Óleo Negro Humo

Small thawing
snow patches.
These are easily
recreated by
meddling with
the amount
of AV’s 26230
“Still Water”
and Lands101/4
“Humid Snow”.

Another item adding to the winter


feel are the snow chains/tracks on
the rear wheels. The patches of
dirty snow are the proper finishing
touch.

45 /
LANDSCAPES
Trees and Rocks

NEW
NEW

bricks molds stone walls

stones wood ribbons


NEW

NEW NEW NEW

www.landscapesindetail.com
moss snow Stones grass

2 mm
4 mm
6 mm NEW

natural products

NEW

NEW

mushrooms soviet hexagonal tiles


NEW

NEW

sea bottom
NEW
Discover the latests “LANDSCAPES IN
DETAIL” products. Have all been created
as the need arose when we made the
dioramas featured in our books series
“Landscapes of War”. Now are offered
for sale so all modelers can use all these
new products on their own projects.

www.euromodelismo.com
T-60

The T-60 is one of the lesser known AFV’s posal for this vehicle which was approved in high mobility even on snow covered grounds.
from WWII, always under the shadow of its August 1941, and manufacturing began imme- This became evident when the battles in the
elder brothers, the T-34’s and the KV’s. I think diately afterwards. The first unit came out of the Moscow area took place during the winter of
that this is quite unfair. premises on September the 15th. 1941-42.
The story of this vehicle starts in the catas- The new tank was a mixture of parts from Some units were equipped with special
trophic year of 1941. The disaster that Opera- its predecessor (transmission and hull) with heaters that were quite useful when tempera-
tion Barbarossa represented for the USSR made elements from the GAZ trucks; specifically the tures reached 40 degrees below zero (Celsius),
it painfully clear that the Red Army needed 70HP Gaz 202 engine. At any rate, the new something rather common in the area. Only
a lot more and a whole lot better performing vehicle had better armoring and a shorter pro- these vehicles were capable of operating in the
armored vehicles. After fifteen days of relentless file. Its main weapon was a 20mm SZWAK defense labors of the country’s capital. Other
work, the designers came up with the project gun and it also had a 7.62mm DT machine vehicles couldn’t even get their engines started
for the T-60. The team led by N. Astrov from gun. Only two people manned the vehicle; the with those temperatures.
factory nº 37 –the same one where the T-40 Driver-Mechanic and the Gunman-Commander. The production for this vehicle ceased
was being manufactured- put forward its pro- It weighed only 6.48 tons, and that gave it a towards the end of 1942 after having delivered
/ 48
Miniart
The T-60 is one of the lesser
known AFV’s from WWII,
always under the shadow of its
elder brothers, the T-34’s and the
KV’s. I think that this is quite
unfair.
The story of this vehicle starts
in the catastrophic year of 1941.
The disaster that Operation
Barbarossa represented for the
USSR made it painfully clear
that the Red Army needed a
lot more and a whole lot better
performing armored vehicles.
After fifteen days of relentless
work, the designers came up
with the project for the T-60.
The team led by N. Astrov
from factory nº 37 –the same
one where the T-40 was being
manufactured- put forward
its proposal for this vehicle
which was approved in August
1941, and manufacturing began
immediately afterwards. The
first unit came out of the
premises on September the 15th.

Tomasz Janiszewski

5920 units to the Soviet Armored Forces. Its bother with its assembly; they leave the hull a destroyed T-60 with a blown away turret and
successor was the T-70 designed by the same hollow. The most common solution is to make on the other one you can see a T-70 with a huge
team lead by N. Astrov. a repair scene, but of course, this has been seen hole. The armoring for these vehicles was not
way too many times. I chose the hardest option, that good because this was a reconnaissance
making a destroyed machine. This is a far more vehicle. That’s why a large caliber impact would
interesting and complicated option. create considerable damage.
IDEA: THE BURIAL The most important thing here is to have a clear The most complicated thing was to transpose
Right from the start I wanted to do a small idea on how we want the AFV to look. In order what I was seeing in the pictures into my
scene having the T-60 as my centerpiece. I had to do this we absolutely need pictures of real model kit. I had to think of a way to breach its
however the small issue of the interior pieces of vehicles that we can use as reference. In this hull. This had to be carried onto the kit with
the kit; I didn’t want them to go to waste ¿What case it wasn’t too difficult, because we can also a distorted and broken geometry. Styrene can’t
could I do about it? Most modelers simply close use the pictures of the T-70’s which are very bend easily, so cutting and rearranging plastic
their hulls and forget about it. If you don’t see similar. Finally I found a couple of very shoc- was necessary in order to achieve a convincing
it, it doesn’t have to be there. Others don’t even king photographs. In one of them you can see result.
49 /
THE KIT
The announcement made by the Ukrainian Miniart brand saying that they were putting
this model for sale was such an exciting piece of news to me, that fifteen days after the
MATERIALS EMPLOYED
announcement I already had an evaluation copy of this kit in my hands to review.
• MiniArt T-60 Early Series, Interior
Kit 35215 also includes interior details for this vehicle. Out of the 778 pieces that it con- kit. 35215
tains, 482 correspond to the interior of the vehicle. It also comes with P.E. pieces and clear
• MiniArt Soviet Villagers 38011
plastic pieces. The kit comes with decals for doing twelve different versions, both German
• 3mm balsa wood, PVC glue, sand
and Soviet. The molding of the pieces is pretty good so the use of files and sandpaper
and pebbles, foliage, electrostatic
is greatly reduced. The vehicle tracks are of the link by link assembly type. Perhaps the
6mm grass, small roots and resin
worst part of the kit is the tow cables; fortunately, the aftermarket products are plentiful. jerrycans.
The remaining pieces in the box are good enough to use and replacements are not strictly
necessary.

ASSEMBLY
1. When doing a destroyed vehicle it is highly advisable to plan well
ahead the work. Marking the cutting lines on the pieces helps you
visualize the possible final outcome. It is also advisable to make the
cuts in the areas with no features are to be found.
2. nce we’ve made the cuts and have gotten rid of the leftover
plastic, we put the pieces together and once we’ve tested the fitting,
we proceed to glue. 1

3. The idea here is to make a partially


burned vehicle. That’s why, in order
to recreate paint chipped away by
the intense heat, we line the interior
walls with aluminum foil glued with
cyanoacrylate glue.
4. The exterior is then lined with
tissue paper. Once glue is dry, we
remove leftover tissue both from the
inside and the outside.

3 4

/ 50
5. Afterwards we proceed to assemble all
the interior pieces. Each piece receives
its share of damage. Some pieces are 5
bent and others are simply glued in an
awkward angle, to create the illusion of a
chamber destroyed by an explosion.
6. The remains of the different materials
affected by the explosion and the fire, such
as ashes, sand, etc. can be recreated with
sawdust and cyanoacrylate glue. A well-
studied arrangement can help conceal the
points where the plastic surface has been cut.

7. The driver’s seat


8
is rebuilt using
9. In order to accentuate the overall damage, we cut wire, tissue paper
some wheels whilst others are glued in awkward angles. and cyanoacrylate
As we’ve cut the hull to recreate the destruction of the glue.
vehicle, the wheels have to be glued not as exactly in
8. In order to
place as these should otherwise be. Only the idler wheels
recreate the rubber
and pinch rollers are in actual place. The tracks are placed
part of the wheels
in sections, bent and twisted, giving us an idea of the
as affected by fire,
strength of the explosion.
we use low grit
sandpaper and
proceed to trim as
much of the wheel
as necessary.

51 /
10 11

10-11. On the turret there is no 12


transformation work and could in fact
be put in its proper place, but finally,
it is placed beside the hull as if it had
been torn away by the explosion.
12. This is the final piece arrangement
ready to paint.

PAINTING

13

13. A good primer is essential when


doing damage work which will require
several coats of paint. In this case
“Chaos Black” is the primer of choice.
14. The base coat is airbrushed XF-64
“Red Borwn”, a few drops of X-22
“Clear” and Gunze’s thinner.
14

/ 52
15 16

17 18

15 to 20. In order to increase the color range, we add a few drops


19
XF-3 “Yellow”. We then repeat the operation adding to the
mixture XF-9 “Hull Red”. Then we do some shading work by
adding XF-1 “Black” and create some highlights with a mixture
of XF-3 “Yellow” and XF-7 “Red”.

20

53 /
21-22. fter having applied a coat
of chipping product, we airbrush
the green base color (A.MIG’s 019
“Russian Green”) and the interior
surfaces with a cream color
hue. This is done in very
thin transparent coats in
order to have the rust
tones underneath show 21
through. The turret has
not sustained the effects of
fire, so it is entirely painted
with the green base color.

22

23. Now we execute


the hairspray technique.
With the help of
toothpicks and warm
23 water we obtain the paint
chips that will make the
rust hues under the base
color surface.

/ 54
24. All details are painted
with acrylic colors. We
employ the mapping
technique in order to get
the necessary contrast
between the base color
coat and the successive
coats to follow.

24

25
25. Now it’s time to make the
smaller paint chips and the less
deep ones showing only the same
color but in a lighter hue.

26

26. Washes are now used


for recreating rust and dirt
streaks. Excess is cleansed
with a paintbrush soaked in
White Spirit.

27. Random rust colored


paint filters are now done
using Humbrol enamels 62
“Leather”, 103 “Cream” and
85 “Revell Brown”.
27

55 /
28. Oilbrusher products are also employed, and
are applied with a paintbrush and necessary
corrections are made with White Spirit. These
are mainly used to create highlights and
shadows.
28 29. Up until this point we’ve worked to tone
down the base color. Now we have to do again
multiple paint chips. Oil paint is also used for
toning down colors, changing colors around and
even micro paint chips.

29

30. Again we add, retouch and add


nuances to the rusted surfaces using
Wilder’s enamels.
31. In order to recreate the traces of
burnt rubber on the wheels, we apply
chipping liquid and then we airbrush
the surrounding areas with black and
finally we make the paint chips using
hot water and a paintbrush. 30

31

/ 56
32. One of the final steps of
the painting process is done
32 with color pigments. “Light
Rust” is used for rusted areas,
white for the ashes of the
burnt wheels and black for
shading and recreating smoke
damage.

33
33 to 35. The kit is nearly finished;
the final retouching is applied when
we integrate it with the base.

34

35

57 /
THE BASE
Personally I like to make my bases as small as possible. Details can
be better cared for when working in a smaller surface. In this case and
bearing in mind that the vehicle is quite small, the base was particularly
small, in fact it has been the smallest one I’ve made in the 1/35 scale.

36
37

36. The base is made with a 6cm thick


Styrofoam block measuring 15 x 20 cm
approx. The sides are lined with balsa
wood. I’ve cut out the outline, sanded,
painted with wood lacquer and finally
I waxed it and polished it. Sadly, I
wasn’t convinced with the results
and had to do it all over.
37. Location tests are made with all
the items and accessories in order to
be able to choose the best composition.
Finally it was decided to use the
destroyed tank as a frame for the smoking
farmer after having buried the driver’s
corpse.

38 39

38 to 40. Sand and different


sized pebbles are glued to the
base and then we press it
all with a piece of paper
40 in order to adjust how
it all sits and fit with
the ground.

/ 58
41

41. We now put the AFV and the remaining accessories like boxes, jerrycans, beams, etc. in place. This is carefully done
aiding the composition as much as possible and arranging things in a logical and natural manner. If necessary, we can add
more sand or pebbles. The entire base is now soaked with diluted acrylic resin for gluing all items in place. Before we
continue, we must let it dry for at least 24 hours.

42

42. The ground is painted with different Humbrol hues. Everything –including the accessories- is painted. This way paint
will act as primer and everything will be ready to receive the acrylic paints.

43

43. Acrylics from the Vallejo range are now used for painting the boxes, beams, jerrycans, etc. The stones are also
highlighted with a mixture of Buff and white.
59 /
44

44. Oil paints are also used for increasing the color range of the base.
45. inally, color pigments are used for doing the final nuances. Some blades of grass are also added.

45

/ 60
THE FIGURE

The best option for my diorama came with the Russian Villa-
gers kit (Miniart 38011) which includes a fantastic farmer. The
COLOR CHART
pieces in this set fit perfectly and the details were not bad at all for Slow Dry Ammo Mig
plastic figures. At any rate, my friend Lukasz Kapelski retouched Chaos Black
the figure a little bit and painted it for me. Tamiya: X-22, X-1 Black, XF-3 Flat Yellow, XF-7 Flat Red,
XF-9 Hull Red, XF-64 Red Brown
Humbroll: 62 Leather, 103 Cream
Revell: 85 Brown, 8 Black
Ammo Mig Oilbrusher: Olivegreen, Summer Soil, Ochre
Abteilung 502: ABT006 Burnt Umber
Ammo Mig: 019 4BO Russian Green, 040 Medium Rust
Vallejo: 70951 White, 70976 Buff, 70916 Sand Yellow, 70965
Prussian Blue, 70910 Orange Red
Heavy Chipping Effects A.MIG 2011
Wilder: Orange Rust NL06, Dark Rust NL07, Brown Rust
NL27
Black Smut, Light Rust MiG P024, Gulf War Sand P037, North
Africa Dust Ammo Mig 3003.

Finally, we can put the figure painted by my friend Lukasz


Kapelski in place.

61 /
Editorial Management
Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
J.David Hernández Chacón
Editor in Chief
Michel Pérez Blasco
Have collaborated in this issue
Armour Modelling Magazine Lukasz Orczyc-Musialek,
Jordi Cerezo, Chema Cabrero,
Orlando Barn,
Antonio Martín Tello, Michel Pérez,
EDITORIAL Tomasz Janiszewski
Translated by
Andrés Pérez Fernández
THE INFINITE PLEASURE
Photographers
Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
A couple of fried eggs with fries dipping freshly made bread on the yolk. The
second movement of Beethoven’s 9th on a vinyl record listened with full volume Illustrations
in a quality headset. An autumnal walk through the windmill route in Alborache. Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
A full moon midnight dip in the Portixol beach. A paranormal lunch. Waking up, Lay Out
peeping through the window and seeing a snow covered landscape in Pueyo de KOMMAD S.L.
Jaca. Getting lost in the Beteta woods. A full visit to Dover castle –or any other Printed by
castle-. A Boston Celtics vs LA Lakers match with Byrd and Magic Johnson. A Artes Gráficas Dharma
three point shot in the last second and winning the match for it. An erotic nap. A Scanning & filmsetting
couch, a blanket and a drink while watching “A Bridge Too Far”. An evening with ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
gin, friends, closer friends, talking about model kits and modelers. A chimney a J. David Hernández Chacón
couch and a book. Entering an exhibit room and finding a yellow dot or two on Computer Graphics
your base. A new kit; opening its box; frantically cutting and gluing pieces from J. David Hernández Chacón
the sprues as if there were no tomorrow. Opening the shipment box of your brand Editorial and Technical Staff,
new super-airbrush-kit. Slowly opening the blue cap and sniffing the product. Administration and Advertising
Succeeding for the first (and possibly) last time in painting the eyes of your 1/48 ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
c/Ezequiel Solana, 16
figure without making it look like Marty Feldman. Finishing a full green cap pot
28017 Madrid
without spilling it a single time on your work table. Finishing the cyanoacrylate Tel.: +34 913 675 708
glue tube fully before it dries. Applying a decal and not having any gloss. Making +34 914 086 135
some paint chips and not making it look like an ant trail. Succeeding at Torrent Fax: +34 914 085 841
and realizing that your friends are happier than you are. Find online the model kit accionpress@euromodelismo.com
you’ve been searching all your like “for a song”. Tamiya releasing your favorite Suscripciones
AFV. Feeling the texture of a T-34’s turret. The smell of Napalm in the mornings… Tel.: +34 913 675 708
There are a lot of incredible pleasures in life, but none is remotely comparable to Published by
the pleasure of finishing a model kit. The sublime moment when you apply the ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
finishing brushstroke, you glue the last rucksack or the final antenna. This is what ISSN: 1886-4457
will actually open the doors of your next model kit that will give you the pleasure
of cutting and gluing its pieces, smelling the glue, seeing the whole thing grow The reproduction of the images
and getting once more to the moment where you finish another one. and texts is prohibited, using any
You will also spill the glue, discover that you’ve run out of paint and the closest current or future technical medium
shop is closed for the summer vacation, cutting the same spot on your hand for without written consent of the
the third time… Trifles. There is nothing more important than the infinite and author. ACCION PRESS, S.A.
supreme pleasure of filling a blank spot on your shelf. does not necessarily support its
collaborators’ opinions.

www.euromodelismo.com
www.facebook.com/PanzerAces.
Magazine?fref=ts
NOW
AVAILABLE 22 €
Diorama Project was born with
the idea of learning how to make
all the elements of a diorama, vehicles, figures and set
design in a simple way.

Frederik Astier - Jari Hemila - Fabrizio Pincelli -


Adam Wilder - Fernando González - Shimpei Nohara
Soon Available

www.euromodelismo.com • web@euromodelismo.com

Vous aimerez peut-être aussi