BATTERY SAFETY & JUMP STARTING

Copyright AA1Car

WARNING: BATTERIES CAN BE DANGEROUS!

WARNING: Automotive lead-acid batteries contain sulfuric acid in the electrolyte. The acid inside the
battery is highly corrosive and can burn your skin if it leaks out of the battery and gets on your skin.
This is NOT a danger if the battery is a "gel" type that does not contain liquid acid. But it can be a
concern if the battery contains liquid acid and has removable caps on top. Sealed top batteries should
contain the liquid as long as the battery remains in an upright position (do NOT turn it sideways or
upside down). Acid may leak out if the battery case is cracked or damaged, so handle with care.

WARNING: Batteries can also explode. When a battery charges, it gives off hydrogen gas. Hydrogen
is flammable and can explode if a spark occurs near the battery (as when connecting a jumper cable,
see safe jump start procedure below).

DO NOT smoke around a battery, or use anything that produces an open flame or spark. The photo
below shows what can happen to a battery when a spark causes it to explode.
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What can happen if a spark ignites hydrogen gas in a battery.

DO NOT attempt to jump start or recharge a frozen battery. Remove the battery from the vehicle,
bring it into a warm room and let it thaw before charging or testing.

Always wear safety glasses when jump starting a battery (to protect your eyes), and gloves when
handling a battery (to protect your hands).

According to PREVENT BLINDNESS AMERICA, in 2003 nearly 6,000 motorists suffered serious eye
injuries from working around car batteries.

Follow the manufacturer's instructions for testing, jumping, installing, discharging, charging, equalizing
and maintaining batteries.

SHOCK HAZARDS

Batteries only produce 12 volts, so there is NO danger of being shocked. However, batteries can
produce hundreds of amps, so never touch a metal object such as a wrench between the positive and
negative battery posts to see if the battery will spark. It will, and produce a current similar to a welding
arc that may damage the tool, the battery and/or cause the battery to explode!

WARNING: On hybrid electric vehicles such as the Toyota Prius, Lexus RX400H, Honda Insight, Ford
Escape hybrid, etc., the hybrid battery pack in the back of the vehicle is a HIGH VOLTAGE (300+
volts!) battery. Three hundred plus volts is enough to shock you or kill you, so NEVER work on the
hybrid electrical system on one of these vehicles without first disabling or disconnecting the high
voltage battery per the vehicle manufacturer's instructions. This must be done with insulated tools and
gloves. The high voltage wiring is usually color-coded ORANGE.
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Safe Battery Jump Start Procedure
If a battery is dead or too low to crank the engine, you can jump start it using a pair of jumper cables
to connect the low/dead battery to a good battery in another vehicle.

Pull the other vehicle as close as possible to the one with the dead/low battery, but DO NOT allow the
vehicles to touch. Open the hood on both vehicles, and shut OFF the engine in the other vehicle.

Jumper cables are color coded, RED for POSITIVE (+) and BLACK for NEGATIVE (-). DO NOT mix
up the cables or allow the metal ends to touch together because this may damage the battery,
charging system and/or electronics on a vehicle.

To jump start the battery, proceed as follows:

1. Connect one end of the RED jumper cable to the POSITIVE (+)post on the dead battery. The
POSITIVE battery post will be slightly larger than the NEGATIVE post, and will be marked with a
PLUS (+) sign. There may also be a RED plastic protective cover over the positive bttery post.

2. Connect the other end of the RED jumper cable to the POSITIVE (+) post on the good battery.

3. Connect one end of the BLACK jumper cable to the NEGATIVE (-) post on the good battery.

4. Connect the other end of the BLACK jumper cable to a heavy metal ground on the engine or frame
of the vehicle with the dead battery. DO NOT make the final jumper connection to the NEGATIVE (-)
post on the battery itself because it usually sparks and may ignite hydrogen fumes in the dead battery
causing it to explode.

NOTE: On some vehicles the battery is not easily accessible (because it is located inside a fender
panel, trunk, etc.), so there may be special jumper connections in the engine compartment for jump
starting the vehicle.

CAUTION: DO NOT lean directly over the battery while making jumper connections (in case of
explosion).

5. Start the vehicle with the good battery, and run the engine at a fast idle (1200 to 1500 rpm)for a
couple of minutes. This will help charge up the low battery and make starting easier.

6. Now you can start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it does not crank or cranks very slowly,
wiggle the jumper connections to make sure they are making good contact. Then try again. The
engine should start if there are no other problems (such as a bad starter or ignition circuit problem).
7. As soon as the engine starts, disconnect both jumper cables. Do not allow the metal ends of the
jumper cables to touch each other or the RED cables to touch anything metal on either car.

8. Keep the engine running 20 to 30 minutes, or drive the car to recharge the battery. During this time,
leave the lights, heater, A/C and other electrical accessories off so all of the charging system's output
can go into the battery.

NOTE: If the engine dies shortly after it has been jump started, or as soon as the jumper cables are
disconnected, it probably means the charging system is not working (bad alternator, voltage regulator,
wiring problem or loose/dirty battery cables).

If the vehicle runs okay and the battery charges up, you should clean and tighten both battery cables
after shutting the engine off. The battery and charging system should also be tested to make sure
both are working properly.

Watch Battery Jump Starting Video

Battery Cautions When Making Repairs:

It is usually a good idea to disconnect the battery before doing electrical repairs. Disconnect the
negative battery cable from the battery. This will prevent accidental damage to onboard electronics or
wiring if you accidentally cross up the wrong wires or short out a live circuit.

WARNING: NEVER disconnect a battery when the ignition is ON, or while the engine is idling
or running.
Doing so can damage electrical and electronic components.

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Warning: Disconnecting the battery may cause electronic modules to forget information.

CAUTION: DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY ON SOME LATE MODEL VEHICLES MAY CAUSE
DRIVEABILITY OR OTHER PROBLEMS: When the battery is disconnected, power to the PCM and
other onboard modules is lost. This can cause a loss of Keep Alive Memory settings. In effect, this
"resets" the PCM back to its base settings, so the engine may not run properly until the PCM adaptive
memory can relearn these settings. The same goes for the transmission. It may not shift properly or
feel the same until the PCM or TCM has had time to relearn the shift adjustments. This may take 10 to
50 miles of driving. Read This BEFORE you disconnect or replace a battery on a late model vehicle.

Disconnecting the battery may also cause other system modules to forget their learned or
programmed settings. This includes modules that control the air conditioner, sunroof, power windows,
power seats, radio, even some anti-theft or keyless entry systems. Some of these modules may not
work properly when the battery is reconnected, or they may remain in standby mode until a special
scan tool relearn procedure is performed (which may require a trip to the car dealer for repairs!). So
always check your owners manual for any precautions about disconnecting the battery before you
remove either cable.

If you are uncertain that disconnecting the battery on your car may cause problems, attach a backup
battery, battery charger or Memory Saver" device to the battery cables or the 12 volt power outlet or
cigarette lighter BEFORE you disconnect the main battery. If using a Memory Saver (small 9 volt
battery), make sure the outlet you plug it into is ON when the ignition is off. Some require turning the
key to the Accessory (ACC) position first. Also, leave the doors and truck closed because the interior
lights will quickly drain all the voltage from a small 9v battery. You need that extra voltage for the
various module Keep Alive Memory settings.

NEVER reverse battery polarity. This may damage the battery, charging system, electrical
components or onboard electronics. Except for some antique vehicles, all modern vehicles have a
NEGATIVE ground. The NEGATIVE battery post is marked with a minus (-) sign, while the POSITIVE
battery post is marked with a plus (+) sign.

Finally, when installing a new battery, make sure the battery is fully charged before the vehicle is
driven. This will reduce the strain on the charging system.

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Starter and Alternator Troubleshooting

Copyright AA1Car
Adapted from an article written by Larry Carley for Counterman magazine

Do you need a new starter because your engine won't crank? Many starters are replaced
unnecessarily and are later returned back to the parts store because they are thought to be defective.
When tested, there's no fault found. The real problem is misdiagnosis. Professional technicians will
usually make the correct diagnosis, but many DIYers are simply making a semi-educated guess - and
they sometimes guess wrong.
One of the best ways to find out if your starter is bad is to have it "bench tested" at a parts store. If it
cranks at normal rpm under load, the problem is something else. Replacing the starter won't fix your
problem. If it fails to crank, the starter needs to be replaced.
When you buy a new or rebuilt starter, compare the old and new units to make sure the replacement
starter is the correct one for your vehicle. Is the mounting surface and bolt configuration the same? Is
the flywheel gear the same (count the teeth if you're not sure). Does the replacement starter have the
same electrical connections?
Because most of the starters that are sold in the aftermarket today are remanufactured units, you can
usually exchange your old starter for a partial credit against the price of the new starter. If your old
starter has been disassembled, has parts missing or has a cracked case, you may not receive full
credit (or any credit) for your old unit. Rebuildable cores for many late model vehicles are valuable, so
make sure you get full credit for the exchange.
ASK YOURSELF THE RIGHT QUESTIONS
What happens when you turn the key and try to start the engine?
If the answer is, "Nothing," you should check the battery, battery terminals, battery cables and ignition
circuit to make sure voltage is reaching the starter. If the battery is low or has corroded terminals or
loose cable connections, the starter may not crank because of low voltage. If the solenoid that
energizes the starter motor is faulty or has loose electrical connections, it will prevent the starter from
cranking, too. A faulty ignition switch, park/neutral safety switch on the transmission linkage, clutch
safety switch on the clutch pedal or a wiring problem are other faults that can also prevent a starter
from cranking.

TYPES OF STARTERS
Starter motors come in several varieties. Most older vehicles have a rather large, heavy starter motor
that has field coils around an armature. On newer vehicles, the size of the starter motor has been
downsized either by using permanent magnets in place of field coils, or by using reduction gears to
multiply the torque produced by a smaller motor. As a rule, permanent magnet and gear reduction
starters are more expensive units to replace. Permanent magnet starters must also be handled with
care because the magnets can be easily cracked and ruined if the starter is dropped on a hard
surface.
STARTER PROBLEMS
Starter problems can be caused by worn brushes (carbon pads inside the motor that supply current to
the rotating armature), by shorts or opens in the armature or field coils or by worn bushings that
increase drag or allow the armature shaft to rub against the pole shoes.
Continuous and prolonged cranking is very hard on a starter motor because it generates excessive
heat. If not allowed to cool down every 30 seconds or so for at least a couple of minutes, the starter
will be damaged by continuous cranking.
You should have your old starter bench tested to determine if it needs to be replaced. Using a battery
and a pair of cables to jump the starter will only tell you if it spins, not how many amps it is drawing or
how fast it is cranking. To accurately test a starter, a test stand that can measure amp load, voltage
and rpm is required.
A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 250 amps under load
(while cranking the engine). The no load amp draw will vary depending on the type of starter. If the
amp draw is too high, the starter needs to be replaced. The same is true if the starter doesn't achieve
the specified rpm.
Excessive starter draw can be caused by high resistance within the starter itself, worn brushes, or
grounds or opens in the armature or coil windings. It can also result from increased internal friction
due to shaft bushings that bind or an armature that is rubbing against the housing (if the starter is
noisy, it's probably dragging).

Sometimes the starter motor works fine but the drive gear won't engage the ring gear on the flywheel.
If the drive gear mechanism can be replaced separately, there's no need to replace the entire starter.
A bad solenoid can also cause starter problems. The solenoid acts like a relay to route power directly
to the starter from the battery. It may be mounted on the starter or located elsewhere in the engine
compartment and is usually connected to the positive battery cable. Corrosion, poor ground at the
solenoid mount or poor battery cable connections will prevent the solenoid from doing its job.
If the starter tests okay but fails to crank, another possible cause may be a bad ignition switch, neutral
safety switch or clutch safety switch. A low battery and/or loose or corroded battery cables can also
prevent the starter from cranking the engine.
CHARGING SYSTEM
The charging system consists of an alternator (that generates electricity), a voltage regulator (that
controls the alternator's output) and the battery (that stores amps). The charging system's job is to
keep the battery fully charged, and to supply voltage to meet the vehicle's electrical needs.
Cranking an engine pulls amps out of the battery. These must be replaced, or over time the battery
will eventually run down each time the engine is started and driven. As soon as the engine starts, the
charging system automatically senses the need for amps and starts recharging the battery. It also
produces as many additional amps as are needed to keep the ignition system, fuel injectors and
electrical accessories running. As a rule, the charging voltage is about two volts higher than battery
voltage.
TYPES OF ALTERNATORS
There are zillions of different OEM part numbers for alternators, so aftermarket suppliers try to
consolidate applications as much as possible.
What's really important is how the alternator is wired (A-circuit, B-circuit or I-circuit), the type of
voltage regulation (external regulator, internal regulator or computer-controlled regulation) and the
physical hookups (bolt hole locations and indexing, wiring connectors and pulley dimensions).
• Alternators with type "A" circuits have an externally grounded field. One brush is connected to
positive battery voltage, and the regulator switches between field and negative to control
output.
• Type "B" circuits have an internally grounded field with one brush connected to battery
negative and the regulator switching between field and positive to control output.
• A third type of circuitry that is used less often is the "I" type. This configuration has an
insulated ground system. In addition to the normal armature terminal that serves as the
charge output terminal, it has a second armature terminal normally marked "A2" that serves
as the ground return. This type of unit works like an "A" circuit unit and is tested and polarized
in the same way, except that the "A2" terminal is used instead of the "A" terminal.
When an A-circuit regulator loses positive voltage, the alternator will overcharge if the field still has
power. If the regulator loses its power. If the regulator loses its ground, the system will go dead. With
B-circuit systems, just the opposite is true. If a B-circuit regulator loses its ground, the alternator will
run wild and overcharge. If it loses positive voltage, the alternator will go dead.
A replacement alternator doesn't necessarily have to look the same as the original, but it must
function the same electrically, have the same pulley dimensions and be a bolt-in replacement. With
consolidated applications, it is sometimes necessary to modify or change the wiring connectors as
well.
CHARGING SYSTEM & ALTERNATOR DIAGNOSIS

Most charging systems that are working properly should produce a charging voltage of about 13.8 to
14.2 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. Always refer to the vehicle manufacturer's
specifications. Many Asian vehicles, for example, have higher charging voltages of around 15 volts.
When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above
base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage.
The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the
vehicle's electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature the higher the charging
voltage, and the higher the temperature the lower the charging voltage. The "normal" charging voltage
on a typical application might be 13.9 to 15.1 volts at 77 degrees F. But at 20 degrees F. below zero,
the charging voltage might be 14.9 to 15.8 volts. On a hot engine on a hot day, the normal charging
voltage might drop to 13.5 to 14.3 volts.
Charging output of the alternator can also be checked with an adjustable carbon pile, voltmeter and
ammeter. The carbon pile is attached to the battery and adjusted to obtain maximum output while the
engine is running at 2000 rpm.
Charging amperage is another number that can reveal the condition of the alternator. With the engine
idling and no load on the charging system (lights and all accessories off, battery fully charged), the
amperage output should be relatively low (typically less than 10 amps). With the headlights and
heater blower fan on and the engine running at 2000 rpm, the output should jump to a higher reading,
typically 25 to 30 amps or more.
Warning: Never disconnect a battery cable while the engine is running to "test" the alternator.
Doing so can cause high voltage spikes that can damage the alternator as well as other
electronics.
NOTE: If a vehicle has a history of repeat alternator failures, it might mean the battery is not building
up normal resistance as it accepts a charge. This, in turn, makes the alternator keep charging the
battery at a higher than normal rate. The result is that the alternator runs hot, overheats and
eventually fails from being over worked. The battery charging current should gradually decrease after
the engine starts, and taper off to less than 10 amps at idle (with no lights or accessories on) after five
minutes of running. If a fully-charged battery is still pulling 20 or more amps after five minutes of idling,
the battery is defective and needs to be replaced.
Another way to check alternator output is with an oscilloscope. Observing the "ripple voltage" pattern
will tell you at a glance whether or not all the alternator windings are functioning. A "good" pattern
should look like the top of a picket fence. If any of the humps are missing, it means one or more of the
windings is grounded or open, or there's a bad diode. Most battery/charging system testers also have
a test function that can detect bad diodes.
ANOTHER QUICK CHECK FOR BOSCH ALTERNATORS

One way to check the integrity of the alternator and diodes on Bosch alternators is to check the
voltage readings at the D+ (blue wire) terminal and B+ terminal. The voltage reading should be the
same at both terminals. A difference of more than one volt would indicate faulty diodes and the need
to replace the alternator.
Bosch does not recommend full fielding as a procedure for testing alternator output because full
fielding may damage onboard electronics.
CHARGING PROBLEMS & SOLUTIONS
If the alternator or regulator fails, the battery will run down and the vehicle may not crank or start. Low
voltage or amperage output from the charging system will usually cause the alternator warning light to
glow, the dash voltmeter to read low, the dash ammeter to show discharge or the Check Engine light
to come on. The headlights will also be dim when the engine is idling.
Low alternator output can be caused by a slipping drive belt (it takes up to five horsepower to turn
some alternators), one or more defective diodes in the alternator's rectifier assembly or a defective
voltage regulator. Loss of alternator output can be caused by a broken drive belt, loose, broken or
corroded wiring connections, electrical failures within the alternator or regulator, or a bad external
regulator ground or voltage connection.
In some instances, the alternator can produce too much voltage and overcharge the battery.
Symptoms here would include low battery electrolyte, damaged battery plates from overheating
and/or burned out bulbs. The cause is usually a defective voltage regulator or poor regulator ground
connection.
Many alternators are replaced unnecessarily or are returned because of misdiagnosed charging
problems. If possible, have your old alternator bench tested to see if it works. If it does, the problem is
not the alternator. It could be a bad regulator or wiring connection. Also, have the replacement
alternator bench tested before you leave the parts store to confirm it is delivering the proper voltage
and current.
Make sure the replacement alternator's amp capacity matches the vehicle's requirements. Don't buy a
45-amp alternator for an application that requires a 90-amp alternator. Overloading an alternator will
cause it to fail prematurely. What you may need is a High Output Alternator
On some Japanese applications, it's not unusual to find several different alternators used on the same
vehicle. So it may be necessary to refer to the vehicle VIN code and/or the part number on the OEM
alternator to identify the unit in order to get the correct replacement.
Also, test and recharge the battery before the alternator is installed. The alternator is designed to
maintain battery charge, not to recharge a dead battery. Forcing it to revive a dead battery may
overload it and cause it to fail.
Additional items that may also need to be replaced to ensure proper operation of the charging system
include the battery cables and drive belt. V-belts should be replaced every four or five years for
preventive maintenance.
ABOUT THE BATTERY
Neither the starter, nor alternator will function properly if the battery is low or worn out. Average battery
life under the best circumstances is four to five years, and is as low as three years in really hot
climates.
If the charging system is functioning normally, but the battery fails to hold a charge, it may mean the
battery has reached the end of its service life and needs to be replaced. Load testing a battery or using
an electronic tester to test the battery's amp capacity should reveal the health of the battery. If the
battery tests okay, the battery may be running down because of a parasitic electrical load. A trunk light
that remains on, a relay that remains energized, etc, can all create a steady drain on the battery that
will run it down.
If you need a battery, the replacement must have an amp capacity that equals or exceeds the OEM
cold cranking amp (CCA) requirements. The group size (height, width and length) must also fit the
battery tray in the vehicle, and the posts must have the same configuration.
The battery cables should be cleaned and inspected or replaced if found to be badly corroded, loose
or damaged. Installing chemically treated anti-corrosion felt washers under the battery cables will help
keep the connections corrosion-free.

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