Just beyond the crowded Assembly building in Fort St.

George is
a quiet corner, surrounded by tall neem trees with dangling
creepers and a metal gate with an antique lamp at the top. This is
the rather quaint entrance to what is claimed to be the oldest
Anglican church East of the Suez and the oldest British building
in India. St. Mary’s Church is a history book in itself and every
step inside seems like a step back in time.

The church is now part of the Church of South India, Diocese of

Madras. The presbyter, Reverend J. Krubha Lily Elizabeth, points
to a booklet on her table about the church’s history.

“The St. Mary’s church was built in 1680 when those who lived in
the fort needed a place of worship. Earlier, the chaplain would
conduct prayers in the dining hall or some such place.” On March
25, 1678, work on the church began under Governor Streynsham
Master. As it was Our Lady’s Day, the church was named St.
Mary’s Church. It is said to have been built with voluntary
contributions from the English who inhabited the fort. According
to the booklet, ‘It will be 80 feet long, 50 feet broad and built with
3 aisles arched with brick and stone’.

The church was consecrated on October 28, 1680, with Rev.

Richard Portman and all other English inhabitants of the fort.
“They say it was a beautiful day when the Governor and Chaplain
headed to the church. They had lined up soldiers all the way to the
entrance and people came to see the dedication service of the first
Anglican church,” says Rev. Krubha, “We’ve had 112 pastors
here so far and there were eight before the church was built.” The
Chaplain’s House, which lies behind the church, is now a military
station headquarters.

The first organ was bought in 1687 from Captain Weltden for 70
pagodas and was in use till 1718, when a new one was ordered
from England. In 1761, the West Gallery was enlarged to make
room for an organ. But in the beginning of the 19th Century, two
new vestries were built on each side of the present chancel,
thereby reducing the gallery size. The organ was removed when a
new sanctuary was built in 1884. The present one, which is the
fifth, dates back to1894. The present organist is John Collison.

The teak balustrade in front of the gallery dates back to the time
when the church was built. The ewer was presented in 1888. The
altar rails presented by the Princess of Tanjore have been replaced,
but the memorial plate on the step is still there. “There is a
window behind the altar where you can now see a painting of The
Last Supper. The church has become synonymous with this
painting whose artist is unknown. The painting is said to have
come from Pondicherry in 1761.”

The church has 104 tombstones, the oldest being that of Lord
Pigot dating back to 1777. The original graveyard was situated
where the High Court is now, but was shifted later. When the
French besieged Madras and took over the building, many of the
slabs were brought to St. Mary’s Church and used to lay a
pavement. In 1782, when Hyder Ali invaded Madras, the slabs
were used to mount the guns around the Fort.

When the church was built, it was called the company church and
remained the Presidency Church for 150 years. There have been
very few changes in the church since then. The spire was added
only in 1710. It then became a garrison church, serving the British
regiments stationed in the fort. The British army stocked its
artillery here.

The registers of baptism, marriage, death and burial have been

preserved right from the time the church was consecrated. While
the oldest are preserved in the Fort Museum, the rest lie in the
church. The register of graves from 1680 to 1947 can be seen at
the church and some plates and chalices that were presented by
Elihu Yale, then Governor of Madras, a large silver basin, silver
flagon and communion cup are on display at the museum.

The first marriage registered is that of Elihu Yale, after whom

Yale University was named. He married Catherine Hynmers, a
widow, in 1680. Robert Clive married Margaret Maskelyne at St.
Mary’s Church in 1753. The visitor’s book dates back to1903 and
has autographs of King George V and his queen, Mary. A new
visitor’s book even has records of Queen Elizabeth II and the
Duke of Edinburgh’s visit here.

It also records the visit of the Duke of York, Prince Andrew, who
was here for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee special service on May
4 this year.

The Vestry committee of St. Mary’s Church was a pioneer in

many aspects — setting up a charity school (which is now the St.
George’s School on Poonamallee High Road), a male and female
asylum, a military hospital inside the fort from which the General
Hospital later developed and a library.

“I guess a lot of Madras’ history took shape here, since this is

where the East India Company began its operations,” says
Krubha.