“BIO FINISHING OF TEXTILE GOODS”

ABSTRACT:
Bio polishing of textile substrates with enzymes has been actively carried out for many years.
Cellulases have been widely used in many finishing applications, such as denim washing
replacing pumice stone to bio polish and soften fabrics. They are also used in laundry agents to
remove fuzz fibres from surfaces of dyed fabrics for color revival. Apart from creating unique
finishing effects, enzymes have replaced many harsh chemicals used previously in wet
processing, because they are environmentally friendly and do not produce undesirable side
reactions.Bio-polishing is a finishing process in which a fabric is treated with an enzyme to
impart properties such as anti-pilling, softness and smoothness. This concept was initially
developed in Japan 1988 where the first experiments were performed on cotton woven fabrics
using cellulases. Improved properties were obtained without using traditional chemical
treatments.

INTRODUCTION:
Today, the production of high performance knitted goods has been expanded by
changing the fibers, yarns, and knitting parameters to create new fabric designs as well as by
the appropriate selection of post-knitting finishes to produce multifunctional knitwear, e.g.,
sportswear, high-tech active-wear, casual-wear, swimwear, outerwear, etc., with outstanding
features, such as soft and smooth handle, resistance to pilling, dimensional stability, etc., and
performance properties, e.g., UV-protection, antimicrobial, water repellent, moisture
management, self-cleaning, etc..
Finishing of textile fabrics used in directly coated fabrics plays an important role in the
final quality of the products. The amount of surface fibres in the textile substrate is directly
related to the amount of surface defects in the final coated fabrics.
The appearance and handle of cotton knits can be significantly improved by treatment with
celluloses, and such treatment leads to the removal of surface hairs from fabric and improve
brightness of dyed fabric.

1
 Knitted goods treated with enzymes are free from surface hairiness and neps with much
improved handle and flexibility. The fabric surface becomes smoother and more lustrous. There
is also a lower tendency to further pilling possibly due to the fact that there are less protruding
fibre ends from the yarns after the enzyme application.
Bio-finishing also called bio-polishing, is a finishing process applied to cellulose textiles

that produces permanent effects by the use of enzymes. Bio-finishing removes protruding
fibres and slubs from fabrics, significantly reduces pilling, softens fabric hand and provides a

smooth fabric appearance, especially for knitwear and as a pretreatment for printing. Second
rate articles can obtain the high value eye appeal of first rate ones.
In denim processing, bio-finishing can reduce or eliminate abrasive stones and the
aggressive chlorine chemistry, achieving the desired “Worn” looks. Bio-finishing is not only

useful for cotton but also for regenerated cellulose fabrics, especially for lyocell and microfibre
articles. By incorporating enzymes into detergents to remove protruding surface fibres,
improved colour retention is achieved after multiple launderings. The disadvantages of bio-
polishing are the formation of fibre dust, which has to be removed thoroughly, the
reproducibility of the effect (which is dependent upon many parameters) and in the worst case,
loss of tear strength.

ENZYME BASED PROCESS IN TEXTILE WET FINISHING OFFER FOLLOWING

ADVANTAGES:
• Ecological friendly production of fibers and finishing agents,
• Reduction in BOD / COD in the effluents treatment plant (ETP),
• Use of renewable resources,
• Saving of water and energy.
Biochemical oxygen demand (BOD) is a measure of the amount of oxygen that bacteria will

consume while decomposing organic matter under aerobic conditions. Chemical oxygen
demand (COD) is a measure of the total quantity of oxygen required to oxidize all organic
material into carbon dioxide and water. COD values are always greater than BOD values, but
COD measurements can be made in a few hours while BOD measurements take five days.

2
ENZYMES:
Enzymes are high molecular weight proteins produced by living organisms to catalyze the
chemical reaction essential for the organism’s survival. They have complex three - dimensional

structures composed of long chains of amino acids held together by peptide bonds. Molecular
weights ranging from 10,000 to about 150,000 and occasionally to more than 10,00,000.

Enzymes are basically biocatalysts. Enzymes are capable of performing these tasks, because
unlike food proteins such as egg albumin, gelatine or soya protein, they help to catalyze
reactions. This means that by their more presence, and without being consumed in the process,
enzymes can speed up chemicals process that would otherwise run very slowly. The enzyme and

substrate form a ‘lock and key’ complex that requires the enzyme to have a specific molecular
alignment in order to act as a catalyst. The lock and key theory of Emil Fischer was broadened

by Koshland Jr to the induced-fit theory of the enzyme-substrate-complex. Chemical reactions

catalysed by enzymes can typically be carried out, as is most usual in nature, under mild
aqueous conditions without the need for high temperatures, extreme pH values or chemical
solvents.

THE KEY-LOCK THEORY AND THE INDUCED FIT THEORY:

LOCK AND KEY THEORY:
The specific action of an enzyme with a single substrate can be explained using a Lock and
Key analogy first postulated in 1894 by Emil Fischer. In this analogy, the lock is the enzyme and
the key is the substrate. Only the correctly sized key (substrate) fits into the key hole (active
site) of the lock (enzyme).
Smaller keys, larger keys, or incorrectly positioned teeth on keys (incorrectly shaped or
sized substrate molecules) do not fit into the lock (enzyme). Only the correctly shaped key
opens a particular lock.

3
 Fig 2. Lock and Key Analogy
ENZYME PROPERTIES:
• Enzymes are specific:
Contrary to inorganic catalysts such as acids, bases, metals, and metal oxides, enzymes are very
specific. In other words, each enzyme can breakdown or synthesized one particular compound.

In some cases, they limited their actions to specific both in the compound with which they
react (see table 1). Most proteases, for instance, can breakdown several types of protein, but in

each protein molecule only certain bonds will be cleaned depending on the which enzyme is
used.

Types of enzyme for textile use and their effect

Types of enzymes Textile use and effects.

Bio – finishing, bio – polishing, anti pilling, softness,
Cellulases smoothness, luster improvement and stone washed effect on
denim
Amylases Standard procedure for the removal of starch warps size.

In household washing agents’ better removal of protein

Proteases containing soil or stains. Anti-felting of wool, degumming of
silk with the problem of silk fibroin damage.

Lipases In detergents for the hydrolysis of lipids.

Hydrolysis of pectins, for example in cotton preparation and
Pectinases
retting of flex and hemp.
Catalyse the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide, important
Catalases Before reaction dying or printing of peroxide bleached fabrics
and yarns.
Ligninases Removal of burns and other plant compound from raw wool.

4
• ENZYMES ARE VERY EFFICIENT CATALYST:
The enzymes catalase, which is found abundantly in the liver and in the red blood cells, is so
efficient that in one minute. One enzyme molecule can catalyze the breakdown of five millions

molecules of hydrogen peroxide to water and oxygen.

• ORIGIN – NATURAL SOURCE:

Enzymes are present in all biological systems. They come from natural system and when they

are degraded the amino acid of which they are made of can be readily absorber back into
nature.

• ENZYMES WORK ONLY ON RENEWABLE RAW MATERIAL:

Fruits, cereals, milk, fats, meat, cotton leather and wood are some typical candidates for

enzymatic conversion in industry. Both the usable products and the waste of most enzymatic
reaction are non – toxic and readily broken down.

CELLULASES:
Cellulases are high molecular colloidal protein bio-catalyst in metabolite form. Industrial

cellulases represent complex of a number of cellulases, cellobiose and related enzymes of

completely non uniform composition in a molecular weight range of 10,000 to 4 million.

Enzymes or cellulases have a protein like structure with primary, secondary, tertiary and
quaternary structures and that are susceptible to degradation due to temperature, ionizing

radiation, light, acids, alkali, and biological effect factors. Cellulases are capable of breaking the
1, 4-β-glucoside bond of cellulose randomly. When cotton fabric is treated with a cellulase

solution under optimum condition: Cellulase hydrolyses cellulose by reaching to the 1, 4-β-
glucoside bond of the cellulose molecule.

As a result of which the fabric surface becomes smooth with the loss of surface fibres and
the hand becomes soft. There is also loss in strength proportional to the amount of weight

reduction.

5
ACTION OF CELLULASE ENZYMES ON CELLULOSE:
Enzymes are large molecular complex and can’t penetrate interior of the fabric. Hence enzyme
action takes place preferentially on the surface. Where cleavage of cellulose chain occurs,

Microfibrils, which are loose fibres break off under the influence of bio-catalytic degradation
and results in better mechanism or modify the surface of the fabric.

Enzymes contain activity centre in three dimensional structure form namely fissures,

holes, pockets, cavities, hollows. These enzymes first of all form an enzyme substance complex
on the surface of the cellulose. Bio-reaction then takes place in the above mentioned substrate

mentioned enzyme substrate complex. Finally, the complex disintegrates with the release of the
reaction products and the original enzymes, which are once again available. Enzymes that

hydrolyse cellulose are found in nature in both Trichoderma and Humicola fungi. The β (1,4)
linkage between adjacent repeat unit in the cellulose polymer chain are the sites that are

vulnerable to catalytic hydrolysis by celluloses (Fig. 4). These enzymes are thus able to provide a
food source for the organisms by producing glucose from cellulose.

(1-4) linkagae

CH2OH OH

OH
OH

OH CH2O H

n
Cellulose polym er chain

Fig. 4 Cellulase hydrolysis site

Industrial production of cellulose involved large scale growth of fungal populations, followed
by extraction of the enzyme. The extracted enzymes contain multiple compound that work

together to yield glucose from a cellulose polymer chain. At least four compounds have been
identified being important in providing efficient glucose production.

Endo–glucanases hydrolyse cellulose polymers from the non –

reducing end producing glucose and leaving a polymer chain with one less repeat unit.

6
Cellobiohydrolases produce cellobiose from polymer chains, and cello biases convert cellobiose

into glucose. These components and their points of attack on cellulose polymer chain.

ENZYME INACTIVATION:
To prevent any damage of the fabric after the finishing operation it is very essential that the

reaction be terminated at the end of treatment by enzyme inactivation. If the enzyme is not
inactivated entirely then at the end of the reaction fibres get damaged and even extreme cases

total destruction of the material may result. The enzyme inactivation is therefore of great
importance from the technical point of view [5].

There are two distinct process of termination of enzyme [5]:

1) Heat treatment at 80°C for 20 minutes.

2) By raising the pH to 11-12.

CHEMISTRY OF ENZYME FINISHING:

More than with other chemical reactions, the enzyme catalysed hydrolysis of cellulose is

strongly influenced by factors such as pH, temperature, time and agitation. The optimal pH for
a particular cellulase depends upon its origin. Acid cellulose products work best at pH 4.5-6,

whereas cellulases from neutral cellulases are more effective at pH 6 - 6.5. The reaction

temperature is also critical since at low temperatures, the reaction rate is slower than desired,

but very high temperature can deactivate the enzyme by providing enough energy to alter its
molecular alignments and thereby destroy its catalystic ability.

Since enzymes are true catalysts and are not consumed during the chemical reaction, the
hydrolysis reaction will continue until either the reaction conditions change or the cellulose is

physically removed from the reaction mixture. Mechanical agitation is important in order for
the hydrolysis reaction to proceed efficiently. Recent work has demonstrated that the kinetics of

the reaction controlled by mass transfer effects. The absorption-desorption mechanism of

enzyme action depends on agitation to remove hydrolysis by-products and expose new fibre

areas to attack.
Because the enzyme’s catalytic action is not reduced during the reaction, effective methods of

ending the hydrolysis must be employed to prevent excessive fibre loss. Since the molecule’s
physical alignments are crucial to its catalytic ability, procedures that alter the cellulase

7
molecule’s internal structure can be used to deactivate the catalysis and halt the hydrolysis.

High temperatures (>70 °C or 160 °F for at least 20 min or short drying at 120 °C or 248 °F),
high pH (>10) and high electrolyte content as well as enzyme poisons can serve to terminate

the reaction by distorting the enzyme’s molecular shape.

EVALUATION OF BIO – FINISHING:

The removal of cellulosic fiber to improve pilling performance, soften hand, and create an
abraded appearance requires not only enzymatic hydrolysis but also mechanical action to carry
away reaction by products physically. Therefore, Laboratory evaluations of bio – finished goods
can only produce relative rather than absolute result.
Enzyme suppliers determine the activity of their products by measuring the extent
of the catalysed reaction under carefully controlled condition. A standard test exist for analysis
(AATCC Test method 103), but the evaluation of cellulases more complex and can vary from
supplier to supplier. One common method is to measure the degradation of carboxymethyl
cellulose solution. Another is to determine the weight or strength loss of standard cotton fabrics
under laboratory conditions where there is a correlation problem, because the mechanical
conditions of the technical application are different to the laboratory ones. For example the
hydrolysis degree HD, is determined by

HD = (mo – m)/mo

Where, mo and m are the weight of the test material before and after bio – finishing [8].

FACTORS AFFECTING BIO-POLISHING:

Bio-polishing affected by many factors. Major ones are enzyme, type of fabric and process

variables. The predominant process variables which control the bio-polishing are temperature, pH,
duration of treatment, and material to liquor ratio, enzyme concentration and mechanical

agitation.

Advantages of using enzymes for bio-polishing are:

• Hairiness, fluffs and pills are removed.

• Material sticking (the burr effect) is prevented.

• Improved handle.

8
 • Achievement of surface smoothness and a clear structural appearance.

• Improved luster.
• Material texture relaxation.

• Increased flexibility and therefore a soft handle even with over end-products and
mercerized fabric.

• Improved sewability.
• Fast to washing, low pilling tendency, no napping in use, or during care operation.

• Stone wash effect without pumice stone and dyestuff destroying chemicals.
• Poor quality, uneven, napped, knoppy material surface (i.e.) typical second quality goods

are converted into elegant, lustrous, soft, top quality with a fine, high quality surface
appearance.

Disadvantages of this finishing technique:

• Loss in weight,
• Formation of fiber dust,

• The reproducibility of the effect (which is dependent upon many parameters), and
• Loss in tear strength.

Trouble-shooting for bio-finishing:

As mechanical agitations important to affect the bio-finishing, only selected processes and
machines can be used, for example tubular fabric preferably cut to open width and treated in

open width washers. In the rope form the loosened fibre particles are filtered out by the fabric
and cannot easily be removed. The pad-batch process, jig or package dyeing machines are not

effective in bio-finishing. Not all cellulase enzymes give identical results, even with similar
fabrics in similar equipment. Cellulases derived from Trichoderma typically are the most

aggressive in their action, whereas mono-component endo-glucanases often require the most
mechanical action to achieve the desired effects. Slow deactivation of the cellulases during

transport and storage can adversely affect the reproducibility of the resulting effects. If cotton
is not washed carefully before bio-finishing, secondary fibre compounds as residual biocides

can deactivate the cellulases. The same is true for natural or synthetic tannic acids, and resist or

9
fastness improving agents for wool or nylon in cellulose fibre blends.

Deactivation of cellulases after the desired effects have been achieved is very important.
If the enzyme is not completely removed from the fabric, or is not effectively deactivated, the

hydrolysis reaction will continue, although at a slower rate. As very large molecules, cellulases
cannot diffuse into the crystalline parts of the cellulose fibres. They react on the fibre surface, so

fibre damage takes time. But eventually enough hydrolysis will have taken place to weaken the
affected fabrics or garment, leading to customer complaints and returns. The use of pH buffers

during the hydrolysis reaction is strongly recommended, especially when abrading denim
fabrics. Cellulase enzymes have very narrow pH ranges of effectiveness and denim fabrics can

have significant quantities of residual alkali from the indigo dyeing process. Buffers are required
to maintain the appropriate reaction conditions for maximum enzyme effectiveness. Because

the effect of processing auxiliaries on cellulase catalysis is difficult to predict, it is important to

evaluate any changes in processing formulas carefully by conducting small scale trials before

making significant changes in production procedures.

CONCLUSION:
Surface coating serves to provide both protection and decorative appeal to a substrate. Current

and new trends in the development of chemical finishing of textiles, considering technical,

commercial, easier applications, less chemicals, water and energy cost reduction, better ecology,

Bio-finishes attains high performance textile products with high value added, more competitive
edge along with less undesirable side effects.

Prepared By;
Yash Nibre
10