Skin Preparations

Part 1

Prof. S. Packirisamy
Department of Chemistry
School of Basic Science & Research
Sharda Univeristy, Greater Noida
Email: s.packirisamy@sharada.ac.in
(Block 1, Room No. 317, Cabin 10)
Unit 4: Skin Preparations
1 Face and skin powders; Ingredients, functions;
Different types
2 Snows and face creams; Chemical ingredients used
3 Anti perspirants; Sun screen preparations; UV
absorbers; Skin bleaching agents
4 Depilatories; Turmeric and Neem preparations;
Vitamin oil
5 Lipsticks; Ingredients and functions– hazards; ISI
specifications
 SKIN
Skin is the external barrier of the body, both
physical and immunological skin is the largest
organ of the body.
It constitutes about 16% of body weight and
its total surface area is about 1.2-2.2 m2.
Function: protection, sensory reception,
excretion and thermoregulation.
SKIN STRUCTURE
 SKIN PHYSIOLOGY
The skin is the outer most layer of the body.
It is constituted of 2 layers:
• Epidermis:
Stratum corneum: It consist of epidermal cells lipophilic
nature The membrane provides about 10-15 layers of
flattened keratinized dead cells It is 10 µm when it is
dry.
But It can take up moisture up to 15 -20 %. When
occlusive dressing / cream applied over the skin
prevent the evaporation of water.
It plays a role in controlling the percutaneous
absorption of chemical substance.
 SKIN PHYSIOLOGY (..contd.)
Stratum lucidum: It is thin translucent layer .
Stratum granulosum: It is consist of keratin protein.
Stratum spinosum: It consist of flattened polygonal
cells.
Stratum germinativum : It consist of melanocytes
Dermis/corium: It consists of dense network of
structural protein fibres. It is about 0.2-0.3mm
thickness It contains blood vessels, lymphatic vessels
and nerve ending.
Sebaceous gland: Oil is produced in the sebaceous
gland , this production is stimulated by hormones. Oil
flows into the hair follicle then onto the skin surface.
 Skin Functions
The skin helps to maintain six essential bodily
functions:
1. Retention of moisture and prevention of
permeation or loss of other molecules
2. Regulation of body temperature
5
3. Protection of the body from microbes and harmful
external influences
4. Sensory organ
5. Production of Vitamin D
6. Protection against harmful effect of UV light
through our pigment cells
 Some common disorders of skin
• Hyper pigmentation: This disorder due to abnormal
pigmentation or increased local synthesis of melanin in the
epidermis. This can be further stimulated by exposure to UV
radiation.
• Hypopigmentation: This disorder due to less pigmentation of
melanin which is called as vitiligo. Acne( pimples) & prickly
heat (miliaria).Malfunction of sebaceous gland and sweat
gland Skin scaling is caused by dandruff and psoriasis.
• Psoriasis: It is formation of scaly red patches particularly on
the extensor surfaceof the body.
• Dandruff: Flaking of stratum corneum and mostly occurs on
scalp due to microbial infection .
• Effects of aging of the skin: Aging affects the character and
function of the skin . cosmetics are used to partially repair ,
mask or overcome such changes Decrease inelasticity of the
skin causes wrinkles due to less blood supply.
 CLASSIFICATION OF SKIN COSMETICS

Cream Powder Colourants Sun burn Products

CLENSING FACE POWDER LIPSTICK & ROUGES SUNSCREEN
COLD CREAM COMPACT
POWDER AND PALLIATIVE
FOUNDATION BODY POWDER
COMPACT ROUGES SIMULATIVE
AND ANHYDROUSCREAM
VANISHING ROUGES
CREAM EMULSION CREAM
ROUGES.
HAND AND BODY LIQUID ROUGES
CREAM
ALL-PURPOSE
CREAM

NIGHT AND
MASSAGE
CREAMS
 Why does skin becomes dry?

When stratum corneum is exposed to low humidity,

excessive loss of water takes place causing dryness
of skin.

When the lower layer of epidermis does not hydrate

properly when the skin is in contact with soap or
solution of detergent for long time.
 Role played by skin creams
These creams are formulated with fatty substance
which helps in their easy spreading on the skin.
These creams help in providing occlusive layer to
the skin, which reduce the rate of water loss from
the transepidermal layer.
The occlusive layer is also responsible for
providing moisturizing effect on the skin.
 Formulation of skin creams
The preparation of cosmetic creams, milks and lotions
depends on the following:
Firstly, upon the selection of ingredients which will
provide the oil phase and aqueous phase of an emulsion
system, these ingredients being selected for their
particular properties, and their effect during and after
application to the skin.
Secondly, a suitable emulsifier must be selected to
determine the type of emulsion system to be used. When
these requirements have been decided the final
composition of the product can be modified for
consistency and effect on the skin by adjusting the
separate ingredients of the two phases of the emulsion.
 Formulation of skin creams (..contd.)
Many satisfactory products are made with anionic emulsifiers,
but the versatile non-ionic emulsifiers are used particularly to
prepare lotions and creams of pourable viscosity. The H.L.B.
system can be applied when formulating as an aid to providing
emulsion stability.
The four main types of cosmetic preparations for the facial skin
are as follows:
(a) cleansing preparations,
(b) those which are intended to protect or nourish the skin
(c) preparations to tone and stimulate the skin including those
which are designed as corrective or treatment preparations
(d) make-up preparations designed to embellish or enhance
the appearance.
 SKIN CREAM
Creams are semisolid emulsions containing mixture of
oil and water. Their consistency varies between liquids
and solids.
 CLEANSING CREAM
They are used for the purpose of removing makeup, remove the
dirt on the skin and to clean the secretion of skin form the face
and neck respectively.
Characteristics
They should be easy to apply.
They should be spread easily on the skin.
They should have a nice appealing appearance.
They should not cause irritation to skin.
They should not melt or liquefy when applied on to
skin.
They should form an emollient film on the skin.
They should not make the skin dry.
They should remove chemicals of facial make-up
effectively.
They should help in softening, lubricating and
protecting skin apart form cleaning.
How to apply?
They are applied on face and neck with
the help of finger tips. Then the fingers
are rotated upward on the skin for
spreading purpose. Tissue paper or
cotton wool is used to remove the
residue of the cream.
• Cleansing cream are of two types:
– Bees wax-borax type/emulsified type.
– Liquefying type
Bees wax-borax type/emulsified type
• It is an oil-water type of emulsion, containing high
percentage of mineral oil. This mineral oil helps in
imparting cleansing property.
INGREDIENTS QTY
Mineral oil (lubricant) 28g
Isopropyl myristate(lubricant & emmollient) 14g
Acetoglyceride(luster) 2.5g
Petroleum jelly (lubricant) 7.5g
Beeswax (emollient) 15g
Borax (buffer) 1g
Water (vehicle) 32g
Preservative q.s
Perfume q.s
 Liquefying type
They are anhydrous creams with thixotropic
character i.e., they liquefy when applied on the
skin.
INGREDIENTS QTY
Mineral oil(lubricant) 80 g
Petrolatum(protective agent) 15 g
Ozokerite wax (humectant) 5g
Preservative q.s.
Perfume q.s.
 COLD CREAM (SNOW CREAM)
These type of creams are water-in-oil
type of emulsions. They produce cooling
sensation by the evaporation of water, after
their application on to the skin, hence known
as cold creams. They should possess
emollient action and the layer left on the skin
after application should be non-occlusive.

INGREDIENTS QTY As a preservative for all cold creams

White beeswax(emollient) 20g and cleansing creams use:
Mineral oil(lubricant) 50g
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate (0·12 %)
Distilled water(vehicle) 28.8g Propyl parahydroxybenzoate (0·02%)
Borax(buffer) 0.7g
Perfume 0.5g
 COLD CREAM (..contd.)
The consistency and texture of the product can be varied by
replacing part of the mineral oil with white petroleum jelly.
Up to 15 per cent of the petroleum jelly can be used in the
product.
The basic formula can also be modified by replacing a proportion
of the mineral oil with a suitable fatty acid ester. Use of iso-Propyl
myristate in the oil phase increases the thixotropic properties and
allows the cream to spread easily, and on account of the lower
viscosity of the oil phase, improves the cleansing action of the
product.
A typical modern cold cream is prepared as follows:
Mineral oil (cosmetic quaIity) 40 g
Perfume 0.3-0.5%
Beeswax 16 g
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.1%
iso-Propyl myristate 5 g
Propyl parahydroxybenzoate ).02%
Petroleum jelly 5 g
Borax 1 g
Water (softened or distilled) 33 g
 VANISHING AND FOUNDATION CREAMS
These creams are also referred to as “day cream” as they are
applied during day time.
These cream provide emollient as well as protective action to
the skin against environmental condition by forming a semi-
occlusive residual film.
This film is neither greasy nor oily.
VANISHING CREAM
They are oil in water type of emulsion. When applied on the
surface of the skin, they spread as a thin oil less film which is
not visible to naked eye.
Hence, they are called vanishing creams.
They are used to hold powder on the skin as well as to
improve adhesion.
 1.It should have high melting point.
2. It should be pure white in color.
3. It should possess very little odour.

INGREDIENTS QTY
Stearic acid (lubricant) 17g
Sodium carbonate 0.5g
Potassium hydroxide(softening agent) 0.5g
Glycerin(humectant) 6g
Water(vehicle) 7g
Alcohol (antiseptic) 4.5g
Perfume 0.5g
 FOUNATION CREAM
Foundation creams vary widely in viscosity and are
available in the form of pourable lotions to thicker
creams.
These creams are prepared by incorporating
powders like titanium dioxide, kaolin, bentoite and
pigments
Properties:
1. They provide emollient base or foundation to skin.
They are applied before applying face powder or
other make-up preparation.
2. They should be easily spread on the skin.
3. They should be non-greasy in nature.
4. They should be capable of leaving a non-occlusive
film on skim after application.
 FOUNATION CREAM (..contd.)
They are of two types:
1. Pigmented foundation creams.
2. Unpigmented foundation cream.
INGREDIENTS QTY
Lanolin(emollient) 2g
Cetyl alcohol 0.50g
Stearic acid(lubricant) 10g
Potassium hydroxide(softening agent) 0.40g
Propylene glycol(humectant) 8g
Water(vehicle) 79.10g
Perfume q.s
Preservative q.s
Hand and Body Cream
Due to repeated exposure of skin to
water, soap and detergents many times a
day leads to removal of lipids and other
secretions from the skin.
Cold and dry winds are responsible for
chapping of the skin. Chapping occurs
due to loss of moisture from the skin,
which is also associated with cracking.
Water is sufficient to treat the dryness of
the skin but evaporation of water takes
place which makes the skin dry again and
no emollient effect is produced.
 Hand Creams: Properties
1. They should be easy to apply.
2. They should help in softening or imparting
emollient effect to hands.
3. They should not leave behind sticky film after
their application.
4. They should not interfere with perspiration of
the skin as it may reduce its bio availability.
5. Perfume and colour should be added in cream
preparation for pleasant smell and appearance.
 Hand Cream (..contd.)
INGREDIENTS QTY
Isoproply myristste (lubricant & emollient) 4 g
Mineral oil(lubricant) 2 g
Stearic acid(lubricant) 3g
Emulsifying wax(emulsifier) 0.275 g
Lanolin(emollient) 2.5 g
Glycerin(humectant) 3 g
Triethanolamine(emulsifying agent) 1 g
Water(vehicle) 84.225 g
Perfume q.S
Preservative q.s
 Herbal face cream
Herbal face creams may contain ingredients such as extracts
of apple, olive oil extracts, cococaprylate (from coconut),
vegetable glycerin, camellia sinensis (green tea) leaf extract,
olea europaea (olive) leaf extract; prunus amygdalus dulcis
(sweet almond) oil; sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil;
simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil*; tapioca starch;

Natural fragrance blend:Pelargonium graveolens (geranium)

oil, citrus dulcis (orange) flower oil, rosa damascena (rose
flower) oil, natural vanillin, natural raspberryketone, natural
heliotropine, cananga odorata (ylang ylang) flower oil,
natural hydroxy-citronellal, jasminum officinale (jasmine)
oil; benzyl alcohol*; benzoic acid.
 Herbal face cream (..contd.)
These ingredients help to keep the skin moist to avoid
flakiness in harsh and dry weather.
The vitamin C content in them act as powerful
antioxidants and function as part of the body's natural
defence system, combating wrinkles, dryness, and other
symptoms of aging or neglected skin.
The chamoline flower extract is excellent for sensitive
and allergy-prone skin, due to the anti-inflammatory
and antiseptic properties of its soothing azulene
compounds.
 NIGHT AND MASSAGE CREAMS
Night cream are the preparation
which are applied during night time
and removed in the morning where
as massage cream are the
preparation which are gently applied
and rubbed on the skin through
massage technique.
These creams exhibit moisturizing
and emollient action and thus
prevent dryness of skin.
 All-purpose/Sport cream
These creams are used by sportspersons and also by
people who do outdoor activities, hence called as sports
creams.
Properties:
1. They are oily in nature but non-greasy.
2. They provide protective film to the skin.
3. They make the rough surface of the skin smooth.
4. When applied in more quantity:
-Nourishing cream
-Protective cream
-Night cream
-Cleansing cream
5. When applied in less quantity:
-Hand cream
-Foundation cream