www.airfix.

com

The official Airfix Club Magazine

Issue 22

In this Issue...

PLUS...
MODEL BUILD THE WESTLAND LYNX
FORD FIESTA SECONDARY
RS WRC SCHEMES
 Welcome to the Winter edition of the Airfix Club Magazine.
What a great year we have had and things look set to get
even better next year. With the arrival of the new Catalogue

Contents
we are sure the thing on most people’s minds are all the new
releases planned. This issue of the magazine will show you
some of the latest releases and give you some hints and tips
The Navy Lynx......................2 on how to get the most out of your kit.
Keep Calm Build Airfix The club has also undergone some changes for the

editorial
Campaign.............................3 forthcoming year and we hope you all agree this year’s club
Ford Fiesta RS WRC.........4-5 kits are again a collection of some very interesting aircraft
Model Build Ford Fiesta with a fantastic story behind them.
RS WRC ...........................6-9
HMS Daring
Type 45 destroyer.........10-11
Members’ Photos.........12-13
The Westland Lynx
Secondary Schemes...........14
Under the Red Star ...........15
Competition Time..............16
THE NAVY LYNX...
With another IPMS Scale Model World over and in the history books,
there is much to remember and talk about for the entire year.
The Navy Lynx making an appearance has to be the icing on the cake for us. We were extremely pleased to be able to
play a role in its appearance and would like to extend our thanks to the Royal Navy.

Design & Production:

DSP Limited.
Membership Organiser:
Sarah Woodhouse.
2013 Subscription Fees: Airfix Display
UK POSTAL Version £24.99. Lynx Arrival Lynx on Display
UK DOWNLOADABLE Version £16.99.
EU DOWNLOADABLE Version £19.49.
Rest of the World DOWNLOADABLE
Version £21.49.
Cheques made payable to:
Hornby Hobbies Limited.
Cards accepted:
Visa, Mastercard, Maestro & Switch
accepted with valid expiry date.
Club address:
Airfix Collectors Club, PO Box 25, Melton
Departure Lynx Depar ture
Mowbray, Leicestershire, UK. LE13 IZG. Lynx Being Prepared for The Airfix Ground Crew
Tel: 0844 815 0582 Fax: 01664 480 257
The Airfix Club Magazine is published
on behalf of Hornby plc, Westwood, If you have not heard already, our display showed off all of this year's
Margate, Kent CT9 4JX.
The Club accepts no responsibility for
fantastic releases, and even some up and coming, including the 1:48
errors or ommissions or for views and
opinions expressed by contributors
scale Supermarine Spitfire PR.XIX.
to the magazine.

10% CLUB
DISCOUNT
ANOTHER BENEFIT OF CLUB MEMBERSHIP...
You can use your Airfix membership card to obtain 10% discount on purchases
featured on the Airfix Direct Sales website www.airfix.com
Follow the step-by-step guide to the checkout and give your Airfix Collectors
Club membership number to obtain your discount, quoting code UDRIQNFT.
2 www.airfix.com

David Oyelowo - Star of Red Tails
Out of this World!
The Icing on the Cake
Oooops!!!!!
Gently does it!...
We would like to invite you all to take part in
our ‘Keep Calm Build Airfix’ campaign. The
aim for you all is to print out this A4 Poster
and get it photographed in as many different
places as possible.
These can be inside or out, at work, home, school or
wherever you want, just ask for permission if you’re on Recognise Him?
private property. We will choose our weekly favourite which
will feature on our Facebook Page. We have created a photo
album with examples we’ve created to help give you an idea
of what you can do, and will make sure to keep everybody’s
posts on our page and we will have their picture put into
the ‘Keep Calm Build Airfix’ album. You can get a Copy of
the A4 Poster from the Downloads section of our website.
Here is a collection of some
of the great entries so far!
Warning! Low Flying Aircraft Pure Gold
3
FORD FIESTA
From the legendary Escort to the
double title-winning Focus, Ford has
been a mainstay of the World Rally
Championship since the early 1970s.
While the team’s Fiesta RS WRC remains largely unchanged under
the skin, the car features a revised livery and there’s a change to the
driver line-up too with Petter Solberg returning to the squad for the
first time in more than a decade to replace the Citroen-bound Mikko
Hirvonen.
M-Sport, which has masterminded Ford’s WRC campaign for 15
seasons, has developed the new challenger and will once again
operate the Ford World Rally Team, but it’s a far cry from 1997
when the partnership began.
The Fiesta RS WRC made the perfect start to the new World Rally Car
era in 2011, dominating Rally Sweden and taking all three podium
positions. Lead pilot Hirvonen took the drivers’ title race down to the
wire and just missed out to Sebastien Loeb.
The consolation for Ford was the best ever finish for
a manufacturer in the World Rally Championship,
with the Blue Oval taking an unprecedented eight of
the top 10 places on Wales Rally GB.

WORLD RALL
4
 www.airfix.com

Petter Solberg

Miikka Anttila
Jarri Matti Latvala

LLY CHAMPIONSHIP
5

MODEL BUILD
FORD FIESTA RS WRC
How to build, paint and weather this exciting
Rally car and build the perfect base to
display it on!
Step 1: Opening the box
Opening the box of this kit revealed 3 separate sprues containing the parts,
the body shell, clear parts (bagged), instructions and a decal sheet for 2
driver options. Some of the very small parts are attached to fairly large
tabs on the sprue, so careful cutting is required to remove them. It’s best
to remove the part with its tab from the sprue with cutters and then
carefully remove the part with a knife (please use with care).
Step 2: Building the model
Before you start to build the model, wash all of the parts in some warm
soapy water and allow to air-dry overnight, this will remove any oils etc
used to produce the model which can cause problems when painting,
especially gloss finishes. Following the kit instructions, you can now
proceed with building.
With this type of model it’s best to build it up as subassemblies that can
be painted separately and then glued together in the final build. In the image
you can see I have prepared all of the parts for painting, this includes all
of the areas where you have cut the part from the sprue and also gluing
some of the subassemblies together.
These include the complete roll cage, the four suspension sets, the rear
inner wheel arches and the dashboard with the steering wheel and column.
Because you have been holding all of these parts as you construct the
model, they tend to get oils and dust from your fingers on them - not good
for a good paint finish - so wash these parts again before painting.
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Step 3: Painting
All of the parts of this model were painted with Humbrol spray cans, here
are the colours: Primer 1, Black satin 85, White matt 34, French blue 14,
Varnish gloss 35 and Silver 11. Some of the parts are small and would be
difficult to hold so I use a small piece of blu-tac to hold the part onto a
clothes peg.
I use an old wire coat hanger bent to shape to hold the body shell. Now you
can primer all of the parts - remember to wear a mask and spray in a well-
ventilated area - and leave overnight to dry. You can now group the parts
together to paint the required colours, blue for the body and seat belts, silver
for the wheels, white for the interior floor and the roll cage and black for the
remaining parts, again leaving all the parts to dry overnight.
You can now add some detail painting to these parts using Humbrol enamel
brush paints, matt varnish the seat belts and then when dry paint the buckles
silver. You can paint the tyres and roll cage padding satin black, the rim of
the steering wheel and the seats are a dark grey then lastly, paint the disc
brakes silver and the calipers and the fire extinguisher gloss red.
Step 4: Interior/floor/suspension
You can now start to assemble the parts as per the instruction sheet but
leave the wheels off, this will make it easier to do the weathering on the model
later. I used a small amount of super glue to glue all of the parts together,
nearly all of the parts that make up the interior have holes to locate them,
hold the part in position and put a small amount of glue on the other side of
the hole so it cannot be seen.
The floor/interior can now be glued to the chassis floor and all four
suspension parts can be glued into position. With all of these parts now
assembled you can move onto finishing the body.

Step 5: Body shell/Decals
As you can see in image 6, there are some areas that need to be painted
black before the decals are applied, I masked off these areas and then
sprayed them with the gloss black - you could carefully brush paint the black
if you prefer. When the black had dried for about half an hour I then sprayed
on two light coats of Gloss varnish 35, this creates a level finish for the
decals to be applied to. Leave the model overnight to dry completely as if
the decals are applied too soon you will end up with fingerprints in the varnish
- not a good look for your model. There are quite a lot of decals to apply to
this model, some of which are small and delicate being thin pinstripe lines.
The body shell has a lot of curves and angles so the decals need some help
to follow the shape of the body so I used Humbrols DecalFix to do this.
This product helps the decal to stick to the model better and also softens the
decal to follow the shape of the model, as the decal dries it shrinks onto the
surface and conforms to all of the shapes of the model. One important point
when using these types of products, because the decal becomes soft and
flexible you should not keep touching the decal once it is in position. You get
a couple of minutes to move the decal into position and then you should not
touch it again for at least 12 hours.
Step 2. Assemble the parts...
. ...
Inside the box..
r...
body kit togethe
Step 4. Putting the
Image 7
Step 5. The decals applied...
7
When you apply this product use a paint brush to first put a small amount
onto the position where the decal is to go, then apply the decal and
leave for a few minutes. Next brush some more of the DecalFix onto the
surface of the decal and leave to dry, you may notice the decal start to
wrinkle up and look a mess but do not worry, this is normal. Eventually
the decal will level out and conform to the model’s shape. If after leaving
the decals overnight there are still some areas still not looking right apply
some more DecalFix and leave again. If you have an air bubble in the decal
use a pin to put a small hole in the bubble and then apply some more
DecalFix but remember, do not fiddle around too much with the decal
once you have applied the DecalFix as you could end up ruining the decal.
Take your time applying them because they cover about 50% of the model.
I did manage to apply all of them during a 1 hour session followed by
another half an hour the next day to finish them off where they hadn’t
settled on the model completely. This product works very well, I was
concerned that the large ‘Ford’ logo on the rear wing/wheel arch would
not settle onto an area with so many curves and shapes, but after the
first application of the DecalFix it settled onto the model well. Images
7 and 8 show the decals now applied and all of the aerials, mirrors, rear
spoiler and air intakes on the roof glued into position.
Step 3. Star ting
to paint the parts
Image 6
Step 5. Painting
the body shell...
Image 8
Step-by-Step Model Build continued...Weathering effects!
FORD FIESTA RS WRC
Step 6: Weathering the Fiesta
Before starting the weathering effects you must let the decals completely
set onto the model for at least 24 hours. This is the first time I had used the
new Humbrol Weathering Powders of which there are eight colours in the
range to choose from. The Weathering Powders can be applied using many
different mediums, by using a brush you can work the powders onto the
model or mix the powders with a liquid and apply - use water, white spirit,
thinners or varnish, whatever works best for your model. On the Fiesta, I
wanted to create a look of watery mud and splats of mud around the sides
and a drier dusty look on top where the mud had dried. To start, I mixed
60% Dark Earth, 20% Rust and 20% Sand to create the desired colour.
Using a small container I mixed 50% Humbrol MattCote with Humbrol
Enamel Thinners and added a small amount of the powder mixture to the
thinner/MattCote mix to create a thin colour wash. This was applied all
around the model apart from the windows and roof, remember to coat the
inner wheel arches as well. Leave the model to dry completely. A second
coat was then applied in the same way to start to build up layers of mud
as desired. While this process dries, apply a few small amounts around the
roof aerial and air intakes and also the rear spoiler - once again leave to
tools... Step 6. Preparing the Ford RS for weathering effects...
g materials and
Step 6. Weatherin
Step 6. Weathering the back of the Ford RS...
Step 6. Weathering the front of the Ford RS...
8
completely dry. While the body is drying, use this same wash on the outer
face of the tyres. Place all of the wheels on a flat surface with the outside of
the wheel facing you. Use a small paint brush to apply the wash to the outside
of the tyre and the wheel.
When dry, apply another wash just to the tyre. When the tyres have dried, take
some of the dry powder mix on your finger tips and rub into the tread surface
of the tyre and the back side of the tyre - these can now be put to one side
while you finish off the body. To add the splats of mud around the model I used
the same powder mix, but this time I mixed it with MattCote and a small
amount of thinners to give it a consistency of paint. Before applying the mud
splats, mask off the windscreen.
Using an old tooth brush or a stiff paint brush and a piece of card, put a small
amount of the powder mixture onto the brush and flick it across the edge of
the card to create the mud splats. Do not overload the brush with the mixture
as you will make large splats which will look too much. Also remember to
make the splats from the front to the back of the model, so aim the flicks from
the front to go across the model towards the rear. Use this same thicker mix
with a brush to build up the mud effects in and around the wheel arches and
along the lower edges of the model. Leave the model again overnight to dry
and then glue the wheels into position.
Step 6. Weatherin
g the side of the
Ford RS...

Step 7. Creating
Step 7. Materials for creating the model base...
As a final touch, use the dry powders and a soft brush to lightly rub some
of the powders onto the side windows and windscreen, remember to leave
a clear area where the windscreen wipers move.
Step 7: The base
To build the base I used a piece of MDF board and a selection of Humbrol
products. Firstly, I sprayed the board with Humbrol Primer and once dry,
Humbrol Satin Black. The next step was to mix two different grades of the
Hornby SkaleScenics gravels together with some ground cover turf and PVA
glue. The turf helped to make a mud effect to blend the gravels together.
Leave this to dry overnight.
ed model...
Step 8. The finish
9
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...
the model base
Step 7. The finished model
base...
Onto this, in two opposite corners, I added more of this mix to create piles
of small rocks and foliage. When this had dried I used some more of the
powder mixture combined with 50/50 PVA and water to make a wash of
the same earth colour as used on the car to wash over the base. Leave
this overnight to completely dry. The Ford Fiesta can now be glued to the
base using 5 minute epoxy resin.
Step 8: The finished model
The model itself was fairly straight forward to build and I hope all these hints
and tips help you with your build, but remember as with all weathering
products it is up to you to see what method of application works best for you.
HMS DARIN
The Type 45, or Daring Class, destroyers are the latest combat ships to be produced
and accepted by the Royal Navy.
Built to replace the Royal Navy’s aging Type 42 destroyers the Type 45
represents a giant leap in capability over the older ships, which are
scheduled to be retired in 2013. The first of the Type 45s to enter service
was HMS Daring. Daring was launched on the first of February 2006 and
entered Royal Navy service on the 23rd of July 2009. The Type 45 is
designed to be the primary air defence asset of any fleet, capable of tracking
and engaging a large number of enemy aircraft simultaneously. This builds
upon experience gained during the Falklands campaign where existing
Royal Navy surface vessels found their air defence capability to be, at times,
stretched. A single Type 45 can in fact engage and track as many targets
at once as five Type 42 destroyers. The Type 45 uses the Sea Viper air
defence system, which is a combined system of fire control and track radar
coupled to MBDA Aster 15 and 30 missile systems and a 48-cell SYLVER
vertical missile launcher, giving both short-range and long-range anti-air
capability. However the ship’s anti-ship capability is currently limited to her
Sea Skua missiles and single 4.5 inch gun. Once they are all completed and
in service there will be six Type 45s in operation with the Royal Navy, Daring,
Dauntless, Diamond, Dragon, Defender and Duncan. These six ships will be
at the forefront of any future fleet and will provide the Royal Navy with
extensive air defense capabilities for years to come.

TYPE 45 DESTROYER Model details Code: A50132

Scale: 1:350
Length: 436mm
Width: 60mm
Pieces: 203
Options: 6

www.airfix.com

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ING 1:350
Scale

11
 We are receiving some fantastic Members’ Photos for these pages
and as you know, there is a prize for what our panel considers the
best submission in each Airfix magazine edition.
The winner chosen from all the photographs published in Issue 21
of Airfix magazine is Lloyd, member 611402.
Congratulations, Lloyd. Look out for your surprise Airfix gift, which
is on its way to you.

members’ photos

Member 500248, William

Member 610903, Cameron

Member 599246, Jonathan

Member 612303, Harvey

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 Member 601062, Fa
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Member 610814, Shay

Member 612270, Roberto

Member 612545, Jack

Member 610390, Jamie Member 610661, Phil

Member 611829, Ben

Member 598827, Glen
13
 THE WESTLAND

LYNX SECONDARY SCHEMES

With the huge success of our Operation Herrick range

and the Lynx helicopter, we thought it would be a great
opportunity to show some of the fantastic
schemes this outstanding helicopter can
be built in.
1:48
Scale

14
 1:72
Scale RED STAR

Moving in to 2013 with the Airfix Club, we

thought we would show you the 3 fully decorated
and built up aircraft contained within the new
Curtiss P-40B Warhawk (H-81A-2/Tomahawk IIB)
limited edition kit available to Club members only. Aircraft flown by Lieutenant Aleksey Khlobystov, 20 GIAP, Murmansk,
Along with British Hurricanes, the Soviet Air Force also managed to fly Russia, April 1942.
another aircraft of the Royal Air Force as a front-line fighter - the Spitfire
Mk. Vb. In the West this airplane (Mk1a variant) is feted as the winner
of the Battle of Britain, and is also a national symbol of World War II. In
the skies of Russia these fighters became participants in 1943 of the
bloodiest battles over the Kuban. Two front-line fighter aviation regiments
of the Soviet VVS - 57th Guards Fighter Aviation Regiment (GIAP) and
821st Fighter Aviation Regiment (IAP) - were re-equipped with the
Spitfire Mk. Vb.
Supermarine Spitfire Mk. Vb
During World War II, the Soviet Union was actually the second country
57 GIAP, Voenno-Vozdushnye Sily (Military Air Forces), Kuban,
(after Great Britain) to import the Curtiss P-40 fighter. During the war
Southern Russia, 1943.
years the P-40 fighter was included in the inventories of the three basic
branches of Soviet aviation: VVS Red Army (VVS KA), VVS Navy (VVS
VMF), and PVO (national air defence) aviation, and fought practically on
all fronts from the Black Sea to the Barents Sea. It is a little known fact
that the Tomahawks and Kittyhawks with red stars participated in all the
decisive battles: the battle for Moscow, at Stalingrad, the defence of
Leningrad, in the Kuban, at the Kursk bulge, and beyond to the liberation
of eastern Prussia.
We recommend further reading here: Hawker Hurricane IIb
'Zu rodinu' ('For the Motherland') flown by Junior Lieutenant Nikolay
http://lend-lease.airforce.ru Belitskiy, 609 IAP, Northern Karelia, Finland, April 1942.

15
COMPETITION TIME

SPOT THE
DIFFERENCE!
THERE ARE TEN
TO FIND!...
The great prize on offer this time for
both adult and junior members is a
Superb HMS Daring, Type 45
Destroyer Scale Model Kit!...
This winter we have a spot the differnence competition for
you to enjoy. This is open to all club members, with one
adult and one junior (aged 14 or under) entry being chosen
at the close of the competition. So get searching, see if you
can find the ten differences and send your answers in!
Who knows you could be the lucky winner!
Rules of entry
1. The two winners of the competition (one adult and one junior aged 14 or under) will be picked at random
from all entries received by the closing date of 28th February 2013.
2. The competition is limited to one entry per current member of the Airfix Club.
3. The results of the competition will be announced in Issue 23 of the Airfix magazine and the winner notified
by post.
4. The competition is not open to employees of Hornby Hobbies Ltd., their agents or families.
5. No correspondence to be entered into in conjunction with the competition.
6. The Airfix Club accepts no responsibility for entries lost in the post or damaged or defaced in any way.
7. No cash equivalent is available. The judges’ decision is final.

Competition Results

1:350
Our Airfix competition in Issue 21 promised a Navy Lynx Poster signed by current serving crew, to
be awarded to one adult and one junior winner. The lucky recipients are: Daniel Laws from Headingley,
Leeds and Master Callum Nicolson from Clitheroe, Lancs.

Scale

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