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the insider’S guide to

CAMPERVANNING
In Australia

1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction 3
Map of Australia 4
Australian Geography 101 4
Australian History 101 6
Essential Aussie Basics 7
Driving on Australian Roads 10
Handling Your Campervan 13
Campervanning Basics 14
Crossing Bass Strait 17
Driving Distances 17
Invaluable Campervanning Tips 19
A Rundown of the Regions 22
What You Can Expect from the Weather 35
Wildlife 38
Aboriginal Australia 45
Getting to Know the Aussies 47
Aussie Tucker 49
Cheers! 52
50 Fantastic Places to Visit! 56
Off the Beaten Track 69
Ten Best Beaches in Australia 72
Speaking “Strine” 76
Itinerary Ideas 79
Final Things to Think About 83

Disclaimer: We have done our best to ensure the accuracy of this information, and apologise
if any of the information in this book is incorrect or outdated, but accept no liability for any
consequences arising from this.

2
INTRODUCTION
For generations of Australians, or experience this generous slice of heaven
“Aussies”, setting off in the family – you can travel at your own pace and stop
campervan (motorhome, travel trailer wherever you like, for as long as you like!
or RV) to explore their magical country There’s a vast number of campsites and
at their own pace is the kind of relaxed,
holiday parks dotted all over the country
free-spirited holiday they take for granted,
to accommodate you and campervans to
or an enviable yet quite common way to
suit any budget – and there’s a favourable
spend a hard-earned retirement.
exchange rate to take your money further.

If you’re reading this book, congratulations


on making the decision to follow in their
Many people say that a

footsteps! campervan holiday is the best,


if not the only real way to meet
Simultaneously an island, a country and Australian locals and see the
a continent, Australia, nicknamed “The
essential Australia.
Land Down Under” is a perfect destination
for a campervanning holiday. It’s friendly, There’s a new caravan built in Australia
uncrowded, huge, and is riddled with every 14 minutes! And according to current
unique but equally wonderful tourist spots affairs show 60 Minutes, there are more
everywhere you go. than 325,000 caravans and motorhomes
currently registered. At any one time, more
Australia’s noteworthy for its unique
than 80,000 of them are on what’s known as
flora and fauna, every imaginable type of
the “Big Lap” – driving all the way around
scenery, its friendly people, delectable food
Australia.
and wine, its superb climate and relaxed,
“no worries” lifestyle. Read on to get the BEST advice, tips,
tricks and secrets on where to go, what to
In Australia you can absorb the fascinating
do, how to plan and mistakes to avoid, to
Aboriginal culture, experience sophisticated
truly get the most out of your Australian
cosmopolitan society with a laid-back twist,
campervanning holiday.
and travel to remote spots it’s possible
no other human has ever even set foot
on. Campervanning is an ideal way to

3
Australian Geography 101
Australia is not just a country, but an entire continent. It’s the world’s smallest continent
and the sixth-largest country.

• Australia’s huge but only has a • It has an area of 2,966,368 square miles,
population of about 20 million people. or 7,682,300 square kilometres.
About 90% of those people live on 2.6%
of the continent. • The capital of Australia is Canberra.

• Australia is located in the Southern • Australia is divided into seven separate


Hemisphere, between the Indian Ocean states: Queensland; New South Wales;
and the southern Pacific Ocean. South Australia; Victoria; Northern

4
Territory, Western Australia; and million years ago. Bore holes bring
Tasmania (the separate island off the water to the surface and it’s supplied to
south-east coast). livestock and humans.

• It also has two major mainland • Off the Queensland coast, the famous
territories, the Northern Territory and Great Barrier Reef stretches around
the Australian Capital Territory. 200km (1240 miles) from off Gladstone
to the Gulf of Papua near New Guinea.
• Australia also has several minor It’s the largest coral reef on earth and is
territories; the federal government home to many different types of animals
administers a separate area within New such as starfish, sea anemones, fish
South Wales, the Jervis Bay Territory, (including sharks), turtles, sea slugs and
as a naval base and sea port for the giant clams.
national capital.
• Sydney is the largest city with about 4
• Australia has the following, inhabited, million people. Other large cities include
external territories: Norfolk Island, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, Adelaide
Christmas Island, Cocos (Keeling) and Newcastle.
Islands, and several mostly uninhabited
external territories: Ashmore and • Lake Eyre is Australia’s largest body of
Cartier Islands, Coral Sea Islands, water – a dry saltwater lake in South
Heard Island and McDonald Islands and Australia that covers 3,430 square miles.
the Australian Antarctic Territory.
• The east coast of Australia is covered by
• The majority of rainfall falls in a thin tropical rainforest. The Great Dividing
strip along the coast, leaving the Range (a mountain range that runs
majority of the country arid and dry, north-south down the east coast) is
vulnerable to droughts and bushfires. what causes rain to fall on the east
Most of Australia is comprised of the and blocks it from the dry inland, or
“Outback” which generally refers to the Outback.
harsh, desolate inland.
• Australia claims the world’s largest
• The only thing saving this huge dry land monolith, Uluru (formerly Ayer’s Rock).
from complete dessication is the Great It’s located almost smack-bang in the
Artesian Basin. This enormous round middle of Australia, in Uluru-Kata Tjuta
geological formation stretches over National Park. This huge 348-metre
inland N.S.W, S.A, Qld and N.T. Beneath red piece of sandstone is a sacred
it are underground water supplies Aboriginal site and arguably Australia’s
thought to be stored between 66-208 most famous landmark.

5
Australian History 101
• Australian Aborigines refer to the • Captain James Cook arrived in his ship
beginning of time as the Dreamtime Endeavour in 1770 and charted the East
(which is often the context for a lot of Coast. He claimed the land for Britain
traditional Aboriginal art) and named New South Wales.

• Australia was originally part of a • Meanwhile, King George III began to see
supercontinent called Pangea, which the potential in Australia as a colony for
eventually split and drifted apart into England’s increasing convict population,
two pieces called Gondwanaland and and the first 800 were sent over in 1787.
Laurasia. Gondwanaland then eventually
broke apart too, creating South America, • Gold was discovered in 1852, causing
Africa, India, Australia, New Guinea, New an influx of immigrants from Europe,
Zealand and Antarctica. America and China.

• Australia once had large pre-historic • The last of the convicts were brought over
animals (like everywhere else) but they in 1868, bringing the total to 168,000.
were in the form of giant marsupials
such as a wombat the size of a hippo, and • Australia proclaimed itself the
10-foot-tall kangaroos! Commonwealth of Australia in 1901,
but fought with New Zealand alongside
• The first people to reach Australia and Britain in the first and second World Wars
chart its coastline were the Portuguese, and alongside America in Korea and
in about 1536. Throughout the 1600s, Vietnam.
many Dutch ships the followed (it was
referred to as “New Holland”). • It was only in 1992 that a law was passed
allowing Aborigines to reclaim their
• Abel Tasman was then sent over to government-owned land.
chart the country. He also discovered
Tasmania. The sea between New Zealand
and Australia is called the Tasman Sea.

a wwI anzac soldier


statue in sydney.

6
Essential Aussie Basics

Visas, Customs and • On departure, you can claim a refund of


Quarantine the Goods and Services Tax (GST) and
Wine Equalisation Tax (WET) that you
• All travellers to Australia must carry paid on goods bought in Australia. The
a valid passport or similar travel refund on goods (not services) costing
document and all travellers except $A300 or more (on the same receipt),
holders of Australian and New Zealand only applies to items carried as hand
passports need a visa to enter Australia luggage. Tourist Refund Scheme booths
(a visa can be obtained from your are located in the departure areas of
nearest Australian high commission, international terminals after passport
embassy or consulate). control, where you must show your
passport, international boarding pass,
• The Electronic Travel Authority (ETA) tax invoice from the retailer, and the
which can be issued on the spot by a goods. You’ll get a cash refund, or the
travel agent replaces the traditional visa amount can be put onto your credit
and is becoming increasingly available card.
through travel agents.

• Everyone can bring some goods duty/ Government and Economy


tax-free into Australia, and adults over
18 can also bring alcohol and cigarettes • The Commonwealth of Australia is
or tobacco products duty/tax free. The a democracy, but it also recognizes
articles must accompany you through the monarch of Great Britain as
Customs and have to be for personal sovereign (The Queen of England has
use. the title “Chief of State” and has some
ceremonial duties)
• There’s no limit on the amount of
Australian and/or foreign cash that • The Prime Minister of Australia is
you can bring into or take out of currently Kevin Rudd.
Australia. However, amounts of more
than A$10,000 (or equivalent in foreign • Australia has a strong, modern
currency) must be declared on arrival economy.
and departure.
• Currency is the Australian dollar.

7
Communication Money

• Most people in Australia have a mobile • Your ATM card must carry either the
phone and so communication when CIRRUS, PLUS or STAR international
you’re travelling is a lot easier. Cheap ATM mark or the Interlink or Maestro
phones with Pre-Pay accounts can be POS mark. You should contact your
purchased in many places such as post bank at home for information on
offices and even some supermarkets. availability and service charges. ATM
cards can be used in Australia at both
• Coverage is extensive, however there ATMs (Automatic Teller Machines)
are plenty of places without cellphone and at participating retail locations,
coverage. so long as they‘ve been enabled for
international access.
• Most caravan parks have WiFi and you
can link to the internet wirelessly with • The most commonly accepted
the right software in your laptop. These credit cards are American Express,
“hot spots” are also to be found at Bankcard, Carte Blanche, Diners
McDonald’s and other places. It’s best Club, MasterCard, Visa and their
to do any emailing or photo uploading affiliates. Use might be restricted in
in the main centres as you won’t know smaller towns and country areas and
where the next place with wireless small retail shops. Changing foreign
internet will be! currency or travellers’ cheques can
be done quickly and efficiently at most
• The telephone country code for banks. You should cash travellers’
Australia is 61, and outgoing cheques at banks or larger hotels as
international access is 00 11. it may be difficult elsewhere. Some
banks may charge a small fee for
• Payphones are red, green, gold or cashing travellers’ cheques. Banks
blue. Only local calls can be made will cash most travellers’ cheques in
from the red ones, but the others have every currency. Most widely accepted
International Direct Dialling. You can are American Express, Thomas Cook,
buy Telstra phonecards at newsagents, Barclays, Bank of America, Visa and
supermarkets and chemists, and there MasterCard.
are also credit card phones at airports,
city centre locations and many hotels. • It’s not essential to tip in Australia – it’s
up to you whether you feel the service
was exceptional. Tipping would typically
be about 10% of the bill.

8
Measurements Territory which doesn’t observe Daylight
Savings).
• Australians use the metric system and
measure things in kilometres, litres and West – Western Australia: GMT +8.
kilograms (unless you’re over 50!)
• Electricity: 220/240 volts AC, but most
• When writing the date, the month comes campervans are wired for 12 or 24 volts
second, eg 23/11/2009. so you’ll need an adaptor. There’s plenty
of sunshine year-round so there’s an
• The decimal point is a dot, not a comma. increasing use of solar power to charge
deep-cycle batteries. 3 pin plugs are
• Temperature is measured in degrees used, but sockets are different from
Celsius, not Fahrenheit. those found in many countries and an
adaptor will probably be needed for this
reason too.
Miscellaneous
• There are very few fifth-wheelers in
• The official language is English, but Australia and most caravans are 20
Australia has a large percentage of feet or less. There are few slide-outs
minorities such as Greek, Italian, although some of the larger campervans
Chinese, German and so on. Then there do have them.
are the indigenous Aboriginal dialects.
Furnaces aren’t used in
• The main international airports are campervans in Australia,
Sydney, Melbourne, and Brisbane,
rather the units are
followed by Perth, Adelaide, Hobart,
Darwin and Cairns. Each state has at
warmed with electric
least one international airport. heaters, or travelers sit
outside by a campfire. The
• Australia spans three time zones: exceptions are the very
Standard East - Queensland, New South
large class A motorhomes
Wales, Victoria and Tasmania: GMT +10,
and GMT +11 October to March (except
imported from the States.
Queensland which doesn’t observe
Daylight Savings).

Central – South Australia and Northern
Territory: GMT +9.5 and GMT +10.5
October to March (except Northern

9
Driving on Australian Roads
So, you’ve got your campervan and you’re ready to go! But driving on Australian roads, not to
mention driving a CAMPERVAN on Australian roads, may be an entirely different experience
than you’re used to.

• Australians drive on the left side of the of the road. Never overtake on corners,
road. If you aren’t used to driving on the blind rises or on double white lines.
left side of the road, it might pay to rent When overtaking heavy vehicles in wet
an automatic campervan and be extra weather, beware of wind turbulence
careful at turns. Remember you – the and wheel spray causing a reduction in
driver – should always be in the centre visibility. Allow plenty of space behind
of the road. you when pulling back in after passing
a truck. Trucks can’t stop as quickly as
• All drivers, including visitors, must cars, especially when carrying heavy
carry their license with them at all loads.
times, although you don’t need a special
license to drive a campervan. When driving on a multi-lane
road, keep to the left-hand
• For experienced drivers, the blood
alcohol level is 0.05. Provisional drivers
lane wherever possible. Move
and young drivers may not have any to the right to overtake and
alcohol before driving. then move back to the left
once it’s safe.
• Seat belts and child restraints must be
worn by all vehicle occupants. It’s an • At traffic lights, a green arrow means
instant fine if you’re caught without it. you can go in the direction indicated –
The police do spot checks for seatbelts even if the main light is red. Look out
and drunk drivers regularly. for the green man crossing sign when
turning at traffic lights. Often your light
• All traffic must proceed in a clockwise could be green but you have to give way
direction in a roundabout. A vehicle to pedestrians before you can turn.
already on a roundabout has right of way
over any vehicles entering. • Using a hand-held mobile phone while
driving is an offence. If you do need to
• Always overtake to the right. Be sure you make or take a call, pull over to the side
can see enough of the road to complete of the road.
overtaking and move back to your side

10
• If you have an accident where someone is (when they’re looking for food). You
killed or injured, it should be reported to could encounter all sorts of animals on
the police at once or within 24 hours. In Australian roads including kangaroos,
Western Australia, any accident must be echidnas, camels, wallabies, cattle,
reported to the police. emus, pigs, large snakes, wombats, or
eagles! They won’t only come out at night
• In most states, the maximum speed either – be on the lookout all the time.
limit on freeways and major highways is
100kph and local urban limits range from • Should you decide you want to go off
50 to 80 kph. In the Northern Territory road it’s essential you discuss this with
there are highways that are free of any someone local, both to get their advice
limits. All speed limits are clearly marked (on weather conditions, the best route,
and all states use speed detection fuel availability and so forth) and to make
equipment including mobile and static sure someone local knows your intended
speed cameras, along with red light route. It’s also a good idea to discuss your
cameras. Any fine incurred in Australia is intended route with your rental company
your responsibility and if you’re a foreign regarding their policy of driving the
national, the fine will be mailed to your campervan on unsealed roads.
home country address.
• If you do break down in a remote area,
• It’s best not to drive your campervan at don’t try and get out and walk. People
night outside of town centres or major who stay with their vehicles are usually
cities. Wildlife, especially kangaroos, located quickly and easily. Stay in the
can be very dangerous on the roads shade, conserve water, and prepare
particularly at sunrise and sunset effective signals.

Watch out for


wildlife on
australian roads.

11
• Any travel across designated Aboriginal • It’s common in the Outback (especially
land needs special permission from the in the Northern Territory) to encounter
owners in advance. This permit process “road trains” – multi-trailer trucks up
varies from state to state and can take to 50 metres long. If you’re coming from
up to six weeks to come through so the opposite direction to pass a road
contact the national parks’ controlling train, give yourself plenty of room as
bodies in each state prior to your the displaced air can cause significant
journey. buffering. If you’re overtaking one, allow
at least 1.5kms of clear road.
When travelling in remote
• Roads in Australia are generally good
areas, always take a
but expect the quality to change from
sufficient supply of water – time to time and also remember that
5 litres per person per day. there can be very long stretches of road
between service stations so plan ahead
• If the road you’re driving on is dusty, when you’re in rural areas and Outback
be cautious as it may be concealing regions.
potholes and/or washouts.

multi-trailer
trucks known
as road trains
are common in
the outback.

12
Handling Your Campervan
• Check with your individual campervan • Campervans are taller than most
company, but generally your insurance passenger vehicles, so know the
will be deemed invalid if you drive clearance height required and consider
on restricted roads. It will vary from things like service station canopies and
company to company, but usually 2WD low-hanging branches.
campervans can only be driven on
sealed/bitumen roads, with the exception • Some highways either restrict or
of well-maintained roads leading into recommend non-use for vehicles over a
holiday parks and well-maintained certain length, so research which roads
roads on Kangaroo Island in South you can travel and how to access them.
Australia. 4WD vehicles can usually be
driven on recognised unsealed roads • Always bear in mind that campervans
but may need written permission for are heavy and require longer braking
the following remote areas: Simpson distances than you’re probably used to.
Desert, Gunbarrel Highway, Strzelecki
Track, Cape York, the Bungle Bungles, • If you are going to tow something behind
Oodnadatta Track, Birdsville Track, you, consider whether your campervan
Warburton Road, Cape Leveque, Tanami can carry the extra weight up steep
Track, The Plenty Highway, Kalumburu mountains or slippery surfaces. Make
Road and Gibb River Road. sure the hitch attachment is secure,
and also consider the total length of the
• No rental vehicles are generally allowed campervan and attachment combined.
on: the Canning Stock Route, the last two
kilometres of the Lennard River Gorge • Before each leg of your trip, make sure
Road, the Lost City in Litchfield Park, you thoroughly check the following on
Cape York between December and May, your campervan: electrical and plumbing
and the Telegraph section of the road to systems; integrity of the LPG tank; fluids,
Cape York. brakes and tyres; angle of mirrors; and
hitch and coupling system if there is one.

check your
rental company’s
policy regarding
unsealed roads.
13
Campervanning Basics
• When you arrive in each new town, • If you think you may be staying in a lot of
it’s best to head straight to the Visitor van parks, it may be worth joining one of
Information Centre, generally located in the holiday park membership schemes.
the centre of town. The staff will give you The schemes provide members with
advice and brochures on anything that’s discounts for stays at their parks while
of interest. the parks themselves must meet a
certain set of standards in terms of
• Campgrounds or holiday parks in facilities and cleanliness. BIG4 Holiday
Australia are generally of a high Parks, Top Tourist Parks and Family
standard. Booking isn’t usually Parks of Australia are three of the
necessary except in peak season (around biggest van park groups.
Christmas/New Year and Easter). You
can choose to stay every night at a • Most national parks have areas set aside
campground, or certain nights to use the for camping. There are often shower
extra facilities. Most campgrounds will and toilets, barbeques and picnic areas,
let you use the facilities without staying however they generally won’t have
the night for a small charge. facilities for you to plug your vehicle into
electricity. Australia’s national parks
• There are a wide array of van parks to contain some of its most spectacular
choose from. Many of the newer parks sights and, some feel, some of its
have almost become mini resorts best camping spots as well. Although
complete with tennis courts, multiple the facilities at campgrounds in most
swimming pools, mini golf courses, national parks include little more than
games rooms, cafes and restaurants a drop toilet and occasionally a tap or a
and even kid’s clubs. Although the picnic table, the scenery and sense of
facilities in these parks may be top being close to nature more than make
notch, the prices are generally high as up for it. The fees are usually pretty low,
well and they may not be in the budget too.
of many long-term travellers. At the
other end of the scale, the council-run • The National Parks department of each
caravan parks do not have all the extras state and Territory has its own system
but they are usually much cheaper and in terms of entry fees and camping
offer a basic place to stay with power fees. You can get more information
and amenities. about access, availability, facilities and
attractions for the national parks in

14
some bush toilets
might make you wonder
whether it’s worth
holding on.

tourist information centres, on the web • Some councils are now making certain
or by phoning the relevant national park regions “no free camping” zones though,
office. Links for checking out the National so just be aware of this. It’s usually best
Park websites for each state are on the to pull off the road and park behind some
last page of this book. trees. It’s generally legal to do this, but if
you aren’t sure, or haven’t seen the sign,
• For many, ‘going bush’ not only provides you could have yourself rudely awakened!
a welcome relief from accommodation Discretion usually helps.
fees, it also creates a real spirit of
adventure. Some bush camping areas • In a country characterised by long
are well established and may have a drop stretches of road across a big Outback
toilet but many have no facilities at all. sky with few towns breaking the horizon,
If you plan to go bush, ensure you have rest areas have become a necessity for
adequate supplies of food and water – many drivers. They are meant to provide
and don’t forget your spade! a place to break your journey, have a rest
and then resume once again refreshed.
• Local council laws don’t permit you to Each state has a different policy when it
camp on the side of the road in the vicinity comes to overnight stays at rest areas
of towns, however outside the towns and – but all agree that if fatigue is setting
in country areas it is generally allowed. in you must “stop, revive and survive”.
As a general rule you’re OK to park up Most state road authorities produce free
in most places such as off the road or maps detailing where rest areas are and
by a beach or riverside unless there’s a whether overnight stays are permitted.
sign prohibiting overnight camping. All
that’s asked in return is respect for the • There are too many campgrounds in
environment and the locals. Be sensible Australia to list them all here – a good
and don’t park anywhere that restricts place to start is
others, or anywhere that might interfere http://www.australianexplorer.com/
with nature. Also make sure you’re not on campsites/index.html.
private property!

15
What to do with Rubbish and Waste

Most holiday parks will have a rubbish and waste collection facility.

The website http://www.sanidumps.com/sanidumps_australia.php has a list of dump


stations throughout the country for campervan users’ toilet and waste water. You’re doing the
environment a favour when you use these.

Keep it Clean, Green and Safe

• Protect plants and animals – they’re unique and often rare

• Remove rubbish – carry out what you carry in

• Take care with fire – douse with water and check ashes before leaving (preferably use a
portable fuel stove)

• Keep streams and lakes clean – when washing, take the water and wash things away from
the source, and let soapy water soak through soil to be filtered

• Keep to the tracks – there’s less risk of damaging fragile plants and ecosystems

• Respect the country’s heritage – many places in Australia have spiritual and/or historical
significance

keeping to tracks
prevents fragile
ecosystems from damage.

16
Crossing the Bass Strait
The Bass Strait is the channel between the The ships each have more than 700
mainland and Tasmania. If you’re planning berths, or 220 cabins and the trip takes
to include Tasmania in your campervan approximately 9-11 hours. Campervans can
holiday (or hire your vehicle in Tasmania travel on the ships from around A$93 off
and travel to the mainland), you’ll need to peak and A$134 in peak season (subject to
cross this picturesque sea-road. change). The fare increases as the size of your
campervan increases.
The route is operated by two ships, Spirit of
Tasmania I and II, which offer an overnight For details on fares and timetables, go to the
service in both directions between Station website www.spiritoftasmania.com.au. Due
Pier in Port Melbourne and Port Devonport to the variations in size, you won’t be able
on Tasmania’s north coast. They go seven to book your campervan in online, however
days a week, year-round, with extra daytime there are details on the website about how
services at peak times of the year. to do this. Be sure to check with your rental
company if their terms allow you to take your
vehicle on the ferry.

Driving Distances
Australia is a huge country, so to enjoy your need to reduce speed through the many
holiday, it’s recommended to research your towns and cities. You will also need to
intended travel route thoroughly, especially consider adverse road and weather
your travelling distances. It’s much better conditions, as well as roads that may be
to travel at a leisurely pace and stop at winding rather than straight. Aim to cover
whichever attractions you like rather than approximately 150-250km per day.
spending each day covering huge distances.
Also remember, driver fatigue causes many
When calculating travelling time it is crashes in Australia. When driving long
important to take into consideration the distances, stop and rest every 2 hours.

getting to tasmania
means crossing the
bass strait.

17
Distance Chart

Road distances between major cities, in kilometres. The distances are based on the most
direct route, not necessarily the most practical.

  Adelaide Brisbane Canberra  Darwin  Melbourne   Perth  Sydney


Adelaide   2062 1204 3024 725 2707 1424
Albury 913 1545 343 3937 310 3620 563
Alice Springs 1534 2946 2680 1490 2259 3933 2958
Ballarat 616 1765 762 3640 109 3323 982
Bendigo 641 1632 642 3665 149 3348 862
Birdsville 1202 1619 2153 2246 2470 3293 2129
Brisbane 2062   1268 3399 1686 4363 982
Broken Hill 509 1553 1073 3127 820 2810 1174
Broome 4271 4646 4975 1875 4996 2258 5112
Cairns 3384 1697 2922 2885 3008 6050 2679
Canberra 1204 1268   3917 653 3911 286
Darwin 3024 3399 4170   3749 4163 3994
Geelong 862 1760 727 3852 74 3410 947
Geraldton 3131 4787 4335 3739 3856 424 4555
Kalgoorlie 2188 3634 3392 4760 2913 597 3465
Katherine 2710 3085 3856 314 3435 3718 3588
Mackay 2666 979 2204 2913 2290 5275 1941
Melbourne 725 1686 653 3749   3432 873
Mildura 397 1671 807 3421 554 3104 1027
Mt Gambier 454 2071 1068 3478 482 3161 1288
Newcastle 1599 807 461 3819 1048 4159 175
Perth 2707 4363 3911 4163 3432   3984
Port Augusta 308 1754 1512 2716 1037 2399 1585
Port Hedland 4831 5178 5536 2482 5057 1625 5609
Rockhampton 2329 642 1867 2954 1953 5199 1624
Sydney 1424 982 286 3994 873 4131  
Tennant Creek 2040 2440 3186 984 2765 4622 3010
Townsville 3038 1351 2576 2541 2662 5911 2313
Wagga Wagga 959 1285 245 3672 438 3666 465

18
Invaluable Campervanning Tips
It’s all very well knowing where you’re going and how to get there – but it’s the little things
that can make or break a campervanning holiday!

• Take soft and collapsible luggage, not • Don’t underestimate the power of
rigid suitcases, to fit in the often small the sun even when the temperatures
storage compartments in campervans. aren’t extreme. In fact, a combination
of very little air pollution and a thinning
• Baggage areas at the international of the earth’s protective ozone layer
airports are patrolled by sniffer dogs (particularly in South Australia and
whose priority is actually finding Tasmania) means the burn times can
fruit and vegetables, not just drugs! be short. Apply waterproof SPF30+
Forgetting an apple in your backpack frequently, and cover up with sunhats,
can cost you an instant fine. clothing and sunglasses.

• Two Aussie favourites that are highly • If you do get badly burnt, take an
accessible when travelling are mince anti-inflammatory such as ibuprofen,
pies (a flaky, high-calorie meat pie), moisturise frequently, drink loads of
and battered fish and chips wrapped water and avoid more sun. Also avoid
in paper. Approach both with caution – applying aloe vera unless you are
unless you brought elastic pants! certain it’s pure – many highly-coloured
versions actually have a high alcohol
• Get off the well-trodden tourist routes content which further dry out the skin.
and interact with the locals to discover
parts of Australia that are generally • Don’t try and tick off too may sights in
reserved for local knowledge. You’ll also too short a time, or you will spend your
find many of your fellow campervanners whole trip looking out the window of
are Australians getting out of the cities. your campervan.
Successful campervanning relies on
matey-ness, at which Aussies excel!

Battered fish and chips


are all too tasty and
easy to eat every day.

19
• When parking at a holiday park, clotheslines at holiday parks fill up very
unspoken etiquette is to position your quickly. Wash your clothes and hang
van so your sliding door does not face them out at night.
your neighbour’s door. That way you
can avoid enforced chit chat and retain • Glasses travel well in “stubby coolers”
some privacy. (foam cups that keep your beer bottle
cool), or polystyrene sheets with
• Levelling blocks can be handy if you different-sized holes cut in.
don’t like sleeping on an angle, but
planks (or VERY thick cardboard) are • Take wire coathangers so you can bend
also worthwhile to place under your the hooks around to stop them jumping
wheels as you park if it looks like it will off the rail even on really bumpy roads.
get very muddy.
• Check the alignment of other people’s
• Bring all the essentials, but don’t TV antennas when you arrive at a
overpack. Do you really need more than holiday park – chances are they’ll be
one pair of the same type of shoe? You’ll pointing in the right direction!
be glad for any square inch of extra
space to live in inside your campervan. • Cook double the amount of any food
you make, especially stews, curries,
• Spring-type clothes pegs come in stir-fries etc so you have an easy
handy for countless things – keeping re-heatable meal at the end of the
open bags closed, replacing the fiddly following day’s travel.
closures on sliced bread… and hanging
up your clothes of course! On this note,

position your
campervan so
you and your
neighbour both
have privacy.

20
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A Rundown of the Regions
Western Australia (W.A.)

POPULAR Perth, Rottnest Island, The Pinnacles, The Kimberley, Broome,


PLACES: Ningaloo Reef, Purnululu National Park, Shark Bay, Margaret River.

22
• This is Australia’s largest state in terms the biggest in the world apart from the
of area, covering the western third of the famous Sahara. The main deserts are
mainland (five times the size of Texas). the Simpson Desert, the Great Victoria
Desert, The Great Sandy Desert, and the
• It’s capital city, Perth, is one of the most Nullabor Plain. This region is famous
isolated metropolitan areas on the planet for its spectacular springtime display of
– the nearest city is Adelaide (over 2000 wildflowers.
kms away) – in fact it’s closer to East
Timor and Jakarta in Indonesia than it is • There’s more coastline in W.A than in
to Sydney or Melbourne. any other state, much of it beautiful
white sand and sparkling turquoise
• Perth is Australia’s sunniest city (which water. However, many of the northern
is saying a lot!). The temperatures reach beaches are home to sharks and other
above 40 degrees Celsius in summer, treacherous wildlife, so brush up on your
although its winters are mild. The heat is local knowledge before deciding if and
dry in the south and humid in the north. when to swim.

• Perth is a handsome, modern city • The most westerly point of Australia


with fantastic parks, great swimming is North West Cape, the location of
and superb surf. The Swan River runs the Ningaloo Reef. It’s not as large as
through the city and most residents the Great Barrier Reef but is just as
define themselves as either living North spectacular, more accessible and less
or South of the river. The river flows populated.
into the Indian Ocean at the Port of
Fremantle, another beautiful town with • There are many huge mines in W.A, so
great historic buildings. road trains are frequently seen. The
open cast mines make for an interesting
• Driving south out of Perth takes you to visit, as they house some of the world’s
towns such as Albany and Esperance, biggest earth-moving machinery,
with this region claiming some of the trucks with houses in them, and trains
best beaches in the world. South West kilometres long.
Australia is also home to parts of the
Karri forest where some of the world’s • Following the main highway north will
tallest trees grow. take you to the Northern Territory,
whereas the south of the state is
• Head north from Perth and you’ll hit the bordered by South Australia. Off the west
Outback. The top third of W.A. is tropical coast is the Indian Ocean and beyond the
and you’ll see rainforest along the coast, southern border is the Great Southern
and endless grassy savannah dotted with Ocean. The nearest landmass to the
kangaroos and all sorts of other wildlife. south is Antarctica.
South and inland are the huge deserts –

23
Northern Territory (N.T.)

POPULAR Darwin, Alice Springs, Kakadu National Park, Uluru, Kings Canyon,
PLACES: Katherine Gorge, Arnhem Land.

24
• This territory is huge and sparsely there are more paintings on rocks and
populated. It spans desert and tropics cave walls here than anywhere else in
and lies just underneath Asia. Australia.

• The majority of this region is classed • Head south and you’ll get to Alice
as Outback and stations, which are Springs, N.T’s second-largest city. It’s
huge farms or ranches (some of these a modern Outback city with an old-
stations are bigger than countries!) world charm, surrounded by desert
and the McDonnell Ranges. People call
• The northern part is known as the “Top this area of Australia the Red Centre
End” to Australians, and only has two because of the colour of the sand, which
tropical seasons – wet and dry. Darwin is occasionally broken up by white salt
is located in the Top End and is the from dried-up salt lakes. There’s a huge
capital of N.T. amount of wildlife around here – you’re
likely to see kangaroos, emus, snakes
• Darwin is a very relaxed city, although and maybe a goanna (a huge lizard).
hasn’t always been so laid back. In
fact, it’s been destroyed and rebuilt • In the south of the region, almost
twice! It was bombed by the Japanese perfectly in the centre of Australia is
during WWII and then succumbed to Uluru (formerly Ayers Rock), arguably
a powerful cyclone on Christmas Day, the country’s most famous landmark.
1974. Because of this, it’s now the most The huge sandstone monolith is about
modern city in Australia. half a day’s drive from Alice Springs.

• West of Darwin is the world-renowned • Continue south and you’ll end up in


3.2 million-acre Kakadu National Park, South Australia, west and you’ll be back
famous for its stunning scenery full of in W.A., and to the east is Queensland.
waterfalls, crocodiles and mangroves, North of N.T is the Arafura Sea and the
as well as its sacred Aboriginal sites – nearest land from there is Indonesia.

the majority of the


northern territory is
classed as outback.

25
South Australia (S.A.)

POPULAR Adelaide, Kangaroo Island, the central deserts, Flinders Ranges,


PLACES: Nullabor Plain, Barossa Valley, Coober Pedy.

26
• South Australia borders every mainland all dug out to look like grand caves. It’s
state in Australia. It’s the driest in the also known as the “Opal Capital of the
country but it’s climate is perfect for a World.” It’s remote but well worth a visit.
thriving wine industry.
• Travelling east, you’ll reach Queensland,
• Near Adelaide is the Barossa Valley Victoria or New South Wales. N.T. is
which is probably Australia’s most to the north and W.A. to the west. The
famed wine-producing region. North are coastline of the Great Southern Ocean is
the stunningly rugged Flinders Ranges. called the Great Australian Bight.
Even further north is the Simpson
Desert, and west from there is the vast, The capital city of S.A. is
flat Nullabor Plain.
Adelaide, which is situated
• South Australia is home to some
on the Torrens River. It’s
interesting towns, such as Coober Pedy notable for its beautiful
in the north. The residents of this small parks which separate the
mining town actually live underground city from the suburbs.
– the best way to escape the stifling
heat of above ground. Houses, church
buildings, pubs and other buildings are

south australia’s
climate lends
itself perfectly to
wine growing.

27
Queensland (Qld.)

Brisbane, Gold Coast, Sunshine Coast, Noosa, Airlie Beach,


POPULAR
Great Barrier Reef, Whitsunday Islands, Fraser Island, Cairns and
PLACES:
Port Douglas, Daintree Rainforest, Kuranda.

28
• Queensland is Australia’s second- are the Whitsunday Islands which are a
largest state, and its capital is Brisbane, must-see.
Australia’s third-largest city. To the south
is another large city, the Gold Coast, and • In the upper part of Queensland (known
northern Queensland’s largest city is as Far North Queensland, or F.N.T) lies
Townsville. Daintree National Park, home to the
world’s oldest rainforest and amazing
Queensland’s climate spots such as Cape Tribulation, where
the rainforest runs uninterrupted to the
ranges from sub-tropical
reef. Up here is the only place in the
up to tropical in the north, world where two World Heritage areas
and this combined with exist side by side.
some of the most stunning,
often uncrowded • Inland Queensland is mostly desert, or
Outback, starting from the west of the
beaches in the world
Great Dividing Range up to the Northern
make it a popular holiday Territory. Queensland borders South
destination for both Australia to the south west but it’s not
Australians and overseas a route for campervans, as there are no
roads – you can cross into New South
visitors.
Wales in the south, however.

• The most famous geographical feature


• North of Queensland is the Torres Strait
of Queensland is the Great Barrier Reef,
which separates Australia from Papua
which is known as one of the natural
New Guinea, and is the end point of
wonders of the world. Around 2000kms
the Great Barrier Reef. People who live
long, it has some of the best diving and
on the islands in the Torres Strait are
snorkelling in the world due to its rich
officially citizens of Australia.
marine life and some 900 beautiful
tropical islands. Particularly spectacular

queensland has some


of the best beaches in
the world.

29
New South Wales (N.S.W.)

POPULAR Sydney, Byron Bay, Blue Mountains, Hunter Valley, New England region,
PLACES: Port Stephens, Pebbly Beach, Jervis Bay, Kosciuszco, Broken Hill.

New South Wales is Australia’s most populous state and


offers a huge variety of things to see and do – beautiful
coastline, World Heritage parks, mountain ranges,
Outback, snow and skiing, and the bright lights of the city.

30
• The state’s capital Sydney is a gorgeous • N.S.W’s temperate climate with its
city and Australia’s most recognised. warm summers and mild winters mean
It’s much bigger than N.S.W’s second it’s appealing year-round. The Outback
and third largest cities, Newcastle and can get uncomfortably hot in summer
Woollongong, which are much bigger though, and even Sydney might get the
again than the remaining country towns. odd 40 degree day. NSW is a state of many
contrasts, however, and you can ski in the
• While much of the sophisticated nightlife Australian Alps to the south.
and cultural attractions are concentrated
in Sydney, there are plenty of natural and • In the state’s west you’ll come to the
historical sites making the rest of the Blue Mountains with their breathtaking
state extremely worth spending time in. cliffs, limestone cave formations and lush
Byron Bay, Australia’s most easterly point, rainforest; even further west and you’ll
has excellent surf breaks and is renowned hit the Outback. To the south lies the
for its artsy, hippie-like atmosphere. Royal National Park, north is the Kurangi
Inland is the lush New England region Chase National Park. Tweed Heads lies
(home to Newcastle) so named because northernmost, on the border of NSW
of its cool climate and British-looking and QLD; and Coolangatta sits on the
landscape. Around the Great Diving Queensland side.
Range you’ll find lots of protected areas
of gorges, rainforest and valleys that are
excellent for hiking and extreme sports
such as white water rafting.

sydney in new
south wales is
australia’s most
recognisable city.

31
Victoria (Vic.)

POPULAR Melbourne, Great Ocean Road, The Grampians, Mornington Peninsula,


PLACES: Bells Beach, Ballarat, Phillip Island.

• Victoria is Australia’s smallest mainland events such as the Australian Grand Prix
state, with the highest density out of any and the Melbourne International Flower
of the states. Its capital city, Melbourne, and Garden Show.
is Australia’s second-largest city, and is
best known for its style, sophistication, • Outside Melbourne, regional attractions
culture, fabulous eateries, great include Phillip Island with its famous
shopping and thriving arts scene. Over penguin parade, the vast sandstone
a quarter of its residents were born ridges of The Grampians, and the
overseas, making it Australia’s most spectacular Great Ocean Road from
multi-cultural city. which you can view dramatic rock
formations such as the famous Twelve
• Melbourne is known as the cultural Apostles.
capital of Australia, and there is an
endless timetable of food and film • Inland Victoria is largely farmland;
festivals, art exhibitions and musical northern Victoria borders the Australian
offerings. The city also hosts many large Alps.

32
Tasmania (Tas.)

POPULAR Hobart, Lake St Clair, Cradle Mountain, Port Arthur, Freycinet Peninsula,
PLACES: Maria island.

• Tasmania is Australia’s island state, • The landscape to the west is rugged


separated from the mainland by Bass with rocky coastlines, steep mountains
Strait which is 240kms across. and dense rainforest. Lake St Clair is
said to be one of the most scenic areas
• Tasmania is famous for its unpolluted – the location of Cradle Mountain and
air, uninterrupted wilderness, treks to rival even New Zealand’s most
spectacular views and gourmet picturesque.
produce. Over one quarter of the state is
protected with National Park status.

33
• Eastern Tasmania is less rugged, Tasmania is teeming with
warmer, and more beachy – Wineglass
wildlife (the most famous
bay in Freycenet National Park was
once voted in the top ten beaches in
being the Tasmanian Devil)
the world according to an international much of it specific to the
travel magazine. state due to its isolation.
There are varieties of
• Tasmania’s capital is Hobart, and is
kangaroos and possums,
Australia’s second oldest city (after
Sydney). It sits next to a river, a busy for example, that are only
harbour and impressive mountains and found in Tasmania due
has its own unique atmosphere. to its cooler and more
mountainous climate.
• Tasmania was originally named Van
Diemen’s Land by the Dutch explorer
Abel Tasman, but its named was
changed in 1856. Tasmania has a
fascinating history due to its past as a
British penal colony.

many animals, like


the tasmanian
devil, are unique to
the state.

34
What to Expect from
the Weather

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9ZhZgi

• The Australian climate varies hugely, • The northern part of the country has
but by far the largest part of the country a tropical climate; part is tropical
is desert, or semi-arid – 40% of the rainforest, part is grasslands; and part
landmass is covered by sand dunes! is desert.

• Only the south east and south west of


the country has a temperate climate and
fertile soil.

35
raging waterways. If you are planning to
The seasons are as follows: visit the far north during this time, take local
Spring: September, October, November advice about road conditions and weather
Summer: December, January, February warnings. There can be road closures in
some areas, more frequently the further
Autumn (Fall): March, April, May
north you go. The most comfortable time
Winter: June, July, August
to visit these areas (such as Broome, Alice
Springs, Darwin or Cairns) is in the dry
The tropical areas of Australia don’t season between May and October – July/
experience these seasons typically, however. August is your best bet.
There are really only two seasons: wet
(October – April) and dry (May – September). The dry season in the north is when
temperatures sit at around 25-30 degrees
The right weather can make or break your Celsius, humidity is low and there’s little
campervanning holiday, whether it your trip chance of rain. Nearly every day is warm
is for three weeks, three months or three and sunny, and afternoon humidity sits
years! Luckily, Australia’s climate makes around 30%. The lowest temperature you’ll
it possible to enjoy fantastic weather year experience will be around 12-14 degrees
round if you go to the right places at the Celsius at night, but rarely lower, and no
right time – although of course Mother frosts have ever been recorded. Waterfalls
Nature is far from predictable and it’s and rivers drop and the land can dry out
entirely possible to get a cloudy, rainy week significantly. It’s a very pleasant time of year
in Port Douglas in August, or a heatwave in in these parts – “winter” in the north is much
Melbourne in October. like “summer” in the south - but expect
many other travellers to have the same idea,
Generally speaking, though… particularly during school holidays.

The wet season in the north (above The heat in the centre can reach 45 degrees
the tropic of Capricorn) is when heavy Celsius or even higher in the summer
monsoon rain, cyclones, flash floods months of November to May and conditions
and occasionally even hurricanes occur. can be hugely uncomfortable. It’s a volatile
The high temperatures combined with time and there is also the risk of sudden
sometimes 100% humidity (although an downpours that turn dried up creeks into
average of about 70%) can also make it raging rivers. It’s always best not to embark
uncomfortable to be outside (or anywhere on long walks or strenuous activities during
inside that doesn’t have air-conditioning!) the full heat of day and always take a hat,
However, it can be quite the experience to sunscreen and plenty of water with you.
brave the conditions and witness dramatic Remember the Outback is pretty far from
electrical storms, thundering waterfalls and civilisation if anyone needs medical attention.

36
The cool in the centre happens April prepared for heat! The lowest rainfall and
to October and during the daytime the highest temperatures generally occur
temperatures can be very pleasant, between November and March, and the
although it can get very cool at night, days are longer too.
especially in July and August. There’s not
much chance of rain but don’t count the The winter in the south can get pretty wet
occasional downpour out completely. and cold, especially in the areas furthest
south, such as Tasmania and locations
The summer in the south (south of the on the south coast. In the subtropical
Tropic of Capricorn) is a fantastic time regions, winters are often dry and daytime
of year, although it can get up to around temperatures mild, if a little crisp.
40 degrees Celsius in some places so be

extreme weather
conditions in
the outback
shouldn’t be
underestimated.

37
Wildlife
Australia’s wildlife is very unique, thanks (the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary in Brisbane
to its geographical isolation. Some of the is the world’s largest –you can have your
world’s most unusual animals exist there. photo taken with one there) but be warned
– they sleep 20 hours a day so he may not
Case in point: the platypus, an egg-laying be awake for the experience. Koalas from
marsupial with webbed feet, a bill like southern areas are about 30% bigger than
a duck’s, and a beaver-like tail. When a Queensland koalas.
specimen was first brought
back to Europe, many Possums are everywhere in Australia –
scientists insisted particularly the common brush-tailed
it was fake – a possum, often found them in suburban
mixture of gardens. There are also less common
several animals variations of possum, including gliders
sewn together! (flying possums).
Another fascinating
monotreme (egg-laying Wombats
marsupial) is the echidna, are sturdy
a spiny little thing with a beak and a long marsupials
sticky tongue for catching insects. weighing up to
36 kg, with big
Kangaroos are another prolific native blunt heads,
animal – there are 45 different species of short necks
kangaroos and wallabies, ranging in size and big claws
from that of a hamster to that of a grown for digging burrows and tunnels.
man. Potoroos and bettongs are the tiniest
– in fact, potoroos are You will have heard of Tasmanian
often known as “wallaby Devils, a cat-like creature found
rats”. only in – yes, Tasmania. It’s the
largest member of a family of
You might also want carnivorous marsupials that
to see a koala, the includes the quoll, the numbat, the
gorgeous fuzzy antechinus, the Kowari and the
marsupial (not a bear) mulgara.
with the black nose. Your
best bet is to see one
at a zoo or sanctuary

38
Bandicoots are another famous Australian species of deer in small parts of the south
marsupial, a grayish-brown mousey-looking east of Australia, or a red fox (anywhere but
creature about the size of a rabbit with big Tasmania and the tropical north).
ears, a pointy tail and a long snout. A bilby is
a variation of a bandicoot. The dingo is a native dog of Australia and
Australia’s largest mammal carnivore. The
size of a medium-sized dog and ranging on
Note: Wash your hands carefully color from cream to tan to black, you’ll find
if you’ve come into contact with them all over Australia except in Tasmania.
any marsupials as they can carry a Never feed or approach a wild dingo –
number of diseases and other nasties they can be very dangerous. It’s illegal
such as paralysis ticks. If you do to have them as pets in South Australia,
find a tick on your body, dab it with Queensland and Tasmania, and owners in
methylated spirits or some other kind Victoria and the Northern Territory need
of noxious liquid and then carefully a special permit. In NSW and WA you can
pull it out with tweezers, ensuring you have them unlicensed. It’s also important
get the entire thing. o keep all food sources away and secure
when you aren’t eating, otherwise dingoes
will see it as an invitation to ransack your
belongings!
Bats abound in
the eastern and
northern edges
of Australia in the
warmest, moistest
habitats. They’re mostly
fruit bats, otherwise known as flying foxes;
otherwise you may come across Little
Bentwing bats in any caves or tunnels on
the east coast of the country.

Water buffalo aren’t native but are found in


the Northern Territory. They were brought There is approximately 300,000 brumbies
in during the nineteenth century as a supply (wild horses) in Australia. They’re
of meat, however as part of a Brucellosis considered a problem as they cause
and Tuberculosis eradication campaign erosion, spread weeds and compete for
from 1997-2007 many were shot and the pasture with native animals. Culling to
population was substantially reduced. You control numbers is a controversial practice
might also come across several different in Australia.

39
They aren’t immediately what pops to Birds of almost every description fill
mind when you think of Australian wildlife, Australian skies – and ground. Of particular
however the continent is home to up to note is the emu – a large flightless bird
200,000 wild dromedary camels. Thousands that’s one of the world’s largest birds (just
of them were imported into Australia slightly smaller than an ostrich). They
between 1840 and 1907 to open up the arid are farmed in Australia and overseas for
areas of central and western Australia. everything from leather to feathers to their
They were used for riding, and as draught eggs; and can be
and pack animals, and to supply goods to found all across
remote mines and settlements. the continent,
from coastal
regions to high
in the snowy
mountains to
the dry inland
plains. You should
also be aware
of running into
a cassowary –
another flightless
Australian and New Zealand fur seals are bird that’s found in north Queensland’s
commonly seen around the south coast tropical rainforests. They’re quite stunning-
of Australia, and Australian sea lions to looking with a large black body, a brilliant
the south and west. Other sea mammals blue and black head with a bright red
include many kinds of whales (killer whales, wattle, and a large horn helmet on its
false killer whales (there is a difference!), head. They’re important as they distribute
pilot whales, blue whales; Southern Right seeds in the rainforest from fruit that’s
whales, dwarf minke whales, fin whales, too large for any other bird to carry. Don’t
humpback whales, sei whales, and sperm approach cassowaries however – they have
whales); dolphins (common, pantropical, the reputation as being one of the world’s
striped, and bottlenose); and dugongs, most dangerous birds. They are by nature
otherwise known as “sea cows”. quite shy but when disturbed can inflict fatal
injuries to dogs and children. If you hear a
large bird that sounds like it’s laughing at
you, that’s a kookaburra!

There are two types of crocodile in Australia


– “freshies” and “salties”. “Freshies” or
freshwater crocodiles, are smaller and

40
relatively harmless, only growing up to venomous but will still bite if provoked –
around 3 meters and subsisting on a diet which hurts) as well as sea snakes – most
of mostly fish. The saltwater or estuarine of which are venomous. Snakes are a
versions aren’t such fussy eaters and can protected species in Australia, and should
reach up to about 6 meters. be left alone. It’s not advisable to approach
any snake. Unless you’re a snake expert,
it can be very hard to tell exactly how
Note: Don’t swim in, or even stand dangerous each individual snake is.
on the banks of, any river, swamp,
estuary, pond or lake in Northern If someone does get bitten, treat every
Australia unless you know it’s snake bite as serious even if you don’t
croc-free. think the snake was venomous. The most
dangerous effects are sometimes not felt
until later, and some bites may not even
hurt. Symptoms of snake bite poisoning can
include dizziness, loss of vision, nausea,
sweating, headache, double vision, blurred
vision, weakness and difficulty swallowing
and breathing.

Note: Although some Australian


There are many fascinating types of snakes can give fatal bites, few
dragons and lizards in Australia, such as people die from them if they get the
the Thorny Devil a harmless reptile covered correct first aid and anti-venom if
in thorns including spikes above each eye needed. Always wear shoes and
that also has the ability to change color. long pants when walking in the
Goannas are a large, distinctive type of bush, and don’t put your hand into
lizard that there are multiple species of and hollows, cracks in the ground or
you’ll also come across several different under rocks where they may be
variations of skinks and geckos. sheltering.

Australia is famous for being home to many


different varieties of snake, from harmless
green and brown tree snakes, to the
extremely venomous such as death
adders, copperheads, tiger snakes
and taipans. There are also many types
of python (which are constrictors and not

41
The person should be made to lie down
and calmed down so they remain still.
Don’t tamper with the wound in any way,
including washing it. Make sure you remove
rings or any other jewellery as they can
become tight if swelling develops. If the
bite is on a limb, use a broad bandage
or torn strips of clothing or pantyhose
to apply at moderate pressure (not tight
enough to stop circulation). Go over the top In Queensland, box jellyfish or “stingers”
of clothing rather than moving the limb to are common in the summer months
remove it – and once the bandage is on, (October – April). Stinger nets are placed at
keep it on. Then, keep the limb as still as the most popular beaches during “stinger
possible using a splint or sling. Don’t use a season” and it’s not recommended to swim
tourniquet or suck the wound! Also, don’t at any other beaches – but if one touches
give the person anything to drink, or let you, pour vinegar on the affected area
them walk at all. straight away. The local authorities usually
have bottles of these placed along the
Call emergency services on 000 or get beaches. Blue bottle jellyfish are also found
them to the nearest place they can be seen in and around Sydney. The best treatment
by a medically trained person, as soon as for this is to wash the sting with fresh water
possible. Although it might be useful to know then have a hot bath or shower.
what type of snake caused the bite, don’t
attempt to catch or kill it. People have been There is usually signage for all types of
bitten by snakes they thought were dead. dangerous wildlife.

Australia also has many sea turtles and Other water creatures include seahorses,
freshwater turtles. They are quite shy but seadragons, starfish, shrimp, prawns,
make great swimming and snorkelling crabs, yabbies, crayfish and lots more. As
companions! you can imagine, Australia is also home
to many types of insects, from exquisite
There’s also an abundance of amazing fish butterflies to huge beetles to various moths
in Australia you can see while snorkeling to exotic ants to irritating midges and more.
or diving, including angelfish, clownfish, Also noteworthy are the many species of
barracuda, cuttlefish, wrass and many spider – some venomous, some not. There
more. Fish to avoid however, are stingrays, are also several types of frogs and toads
stonefish, porcupine fish, lionfish and puffer – from the spectacularly pretty green tree
fish. Don’t touch an octopus if it has blue frog through to the warty and venomous
rings on it. cane toad. Also watch out for scorpions,

42
centipedes and millipedes which can and
will bite. Particularly horrifying are giant
centipedes which can reach lengths of
Even though much of Australia’s
up to and over 16cm. They deliver venom
wildlife is both fascinating and
through modified claws that is toxic to
appealing and feeding them can
both mammals and insects but isn’t
be a means of having more contact
strong enough to kill a large animal. They
with them, feeding wild animals is
can cause intense pain for many hours to
discouraged for several reasons:
humans – this can be relieved somewhat
with icepacks but in some cases hospital-
• It can lead to a greater than
grade painkillers are required.
normal number of animals in
the area, putting extra pressure
on natural food sources;

• Animals can become dependent


on the artificial food source;

• Increasing numbers of
animals in one area can lead to
aggression amongst the same
and different species;

Note: We’re ruining the fun here, but • Predators like hawks and owls
don’t believe an Australian who tells are attracted by the increase in
you to watch out for “Drop Bears”, animals, leading to increased
a mythical type of vicious koala that predation;
supposedly drops out of trees on top
of you. It’s a long-running Australian • Human food is often highly
joke to trick hapless tourists. Watch processed and may not be
out: they will either swear black suitable for animals in the wild;
and blue that it’s true; or they will
attempt to use reverse psychology • Unnatural concentrations of
by telling you it’s myth in a way animals can become the focal
that makes you continue to doubt point for outbreaks of disease
whether it is or not. You may also which are then transmissible
hear about Tasmanian Tigers, which to humans.
actually did exist once upon a time
but became extinct in the 1930s.

43
Aboriginal Australia
• Around 300,000 Aboriginal people in people with special spiritual powers
around 250 tribes (each with their own had contact with the dreamtime. The
territory, beliefs and language) already Dreamtime, or The Dreaming can also
lived in Australia when Cook landed refer to the time when the universe was
there to claim it as British land, and had created as well. Much Aboriginal art
been for at least 60,000 years. History depicts stories and settings from The
books theorize they were descended Dreaming, and Australian Aboriginal
from Indonesian migrants; the myths are often traditionally performed
Aboriginal belief is that they have been across Australia.
there since the dawn of time.
• While relations with early European
• The people were nomadic hunter- settlers were initially peaceful,
gatherers, linked to their ancestral land resentment and conflict between two
by sacred sites. These sacred sites are polar opposite ways of life eventually
home to the Dreamtime spirits – the led to battle in which many people from
ancestral totemic spirits that formed both sides died – although around ten
The Creation (of the stars, the moon, the times as many Aboriginal people as
ocean, land, animals and humans). Europeans. There was even a campaign
to rid the entire state of Tasmania of
• Australian Aboriginals believe in two Aboriginal people – which worked – the
parallel forms of time. One is daily last full-blooded Tasmanian Aborigine
activity, the other is an infinite spiritual died in 1876. Many Aboriginals also
cycle called the “Dreamtime”. Whatever succumbed to European diseases such
happens in the dreamtime establishes as influenza, the common cold and
the values, symbols, and laws of smallpox, up to as late as the 1950s.
Aboriginal society. It is believed that They actually began to die out.

The Australian
Aboriginal people
have been there for
at least 60,000 years.

45
• Around the 1920s it became rest of the population. Recently, several
government policy to take Aboriginal acts have been passed allowing them to
children away from their families and reclaim some of the land that was lost
put them in white foster homes or to them, and it was only very recently
church refuges, and sterilize young that the government apologised for the
Aborginal women. These children are “Stolen Generation”. They still however
referred to as the “Stolen Generation”. are the single most disadvantaged
group of people in Australia.
• Relations are still strained between the
280,000 Aborigines in Australia and the

The best places to learn more about the


indigenous culture are: Alice Springs, the
Red Centre, Uluru-Kata Tjuta and in the
Northern Territory.

Some points to be aware of:

• You need a permit to enter some Aboriginal-owned land.

• In remote communities, many of the people speak English as a second


language, if at all.

• Their body language may also be different, for example they may not
immediately make eye contact with you.

• Access to Dreaming stories or some other cultural practices may be restricted,


eg to outsiders, or by gender.

• Pictures of people who have recently died aren’t displayed and their names not
spoken for a while.

• Always ask before photographing a group, person or residence.

• Don’t touch rock art or engravings.

• Some indigenous communities ban alcohol.

• Certain parts of indigenous land are more sacred than others (ie “sacred sites”).
When visiting these areas ask about appropriate behaviour.

46
Getting to Know the Aussies
So what’s a typical Australian like?

Well, that’s a little hard to say given the nation’s unification of so many cultures. As well as the
Aboriginal people, and the “Anglo-Celts” (still the dominant ethnicity there) there are people
from all around the world – New Zealanders, British, Lebanese, Greek, Italian, Chinese,
Japanese, and Dutch to name just a few. However, Australia still has an extremely strong
identity and its very own culture that wouldn’t be what it is today if not for this melting pot of
diverse people.

• Most of the early Europeans to inhabit • Australians are very into cars, and are
Australia were British convicts (which generally divided over whether they are
possibly contributes to the general “Ford” or “Holden” men. Large powerful
“bloke-iness” of Aussie culture). This Falcons and Commodores are popular
is the source of some good-natured and many are modified.
teasing (mostly from New Zealanders,
who in turn get laughed at for their • Even more iconic is the “ute” (utility or
accent; the small size of their country; pickup truck). It’s part of the national
and the amount of sheep compared identity – to have a ute is to be a true
to people there). Australians and New Australian.
Zealanders enjoy a healthy rivalry,
although NZers generally come off worst • Beer is pretty much the national drink –
in the endless sporting competition. favourites vary from state to state.

• Australia is sports-mad. Both genders • Australians are very proud of their


watch a lot of sport, which is generally national exports such as Elle
the cricket, and supporting their MacPherson, Mel Gibson, Russell
“footy” team (which refers to either Crowe, Cate Blanchett, AC/DC and so
Rugby League, AFL, or Rugby Union – on. Most Australians have seen iconic
definitely not soccer or gridiron). Tennis, Australian movies such as Mad Max,
swimming and motorsport are also The Castle, Muriel’s Wedding, Crocodile
popular. They don’t tend to know so Dundee, Priscilla Queen of the Desert
much about basketball, netball, hockey, and Strictly Ballroom.
baseball, etc - even if the national team
are the world champions. The country • The generalised greeting “G’day” (an
also basically stands still on Melbourne abbreviation of “good day”) is acceptable
Cup Day. to use in almost any situation regardless

47
The typical
Aussie is
easygoing and
friendly.

of relationship, gender, sex, race, social strong – as long as sport matches aren’t
standing, weather or mood. involved.

• Australians are very friendly and helpful • Christmas is right in the middle of
people with good senses of humour and summer and is usually a very hot day of
a natural ability to tell jokes and play the year, however decorations and cards
with words. They can seem reserved still include snowflakes, sleighs, tinsel,
to start with but once the ice is broken and pine trees. Christmas lunch or
everything relaxes. They are easygoing, dinner is often had outdoors.
but personal matters take longer to
come out in the open. • A very high percentage of Australians
live by the sea and much of Australia
• The “esky” (a plastic box that keeps is sunny all year round, so “beach
things cool) plays a vital part in Aussie culture” is huge – going to the beach
culture – one containing the right items on weekends is like going to the mall or
can keep an Australian happy for days. It doing sport.
can be used as a seat at footy matches;
an outdoor fridge; a fish holder on • Fishing is a big thing in Australian
fishing trips; and lunchboxes for culture – there are of course many
“tradies” and manual labourers. excellent places to fish and a huge
number and variety and species
• Australia is basically classless and not available. There are rules though – all
centred around ancestors and the family states except Qld require a fishing
unit - they don’t really care what family license (which can easily be obtained).
someone comes from. There are also limits regarding type and
size of fish captured and quantity, size
• Australians suffered the highest and gender of shellfish and crustaceans
per-capita death toll of all the Allied which are all explained in booklets at
countries in WWI. The ANZAC (Australia any fishing shop. You also need a special
New Zealand Army Corps) spirit is still license for a boats over 6 horsepower.

48
Aussie Tucker
Grub, a.k.a tucker, a.k.a food is a big part of Native mammals and birds such as
Australian culture, although it has relatively kangaroo, wallaby and emu were regularly
few native foods. Its modern cuisine identity hunted and killed. Although animals were
is made up of intertwining strands of sometimes thrown straight on the fire,
Aboriginal culture, traditional British food, several food preparation techniques were
and other cultural influences that have known. Other foods that seem less palatable
arrived here since. to modern urban Australians - such as
grubs, lizards, snakes and moths - were
Indigenous Australian Food greatly valued.

Australian Aborigines were hunter- Bush foods such as berries, roots and
gatherers and selected food which was nectars were a vital part of the Aboriginal
available and ate it for nutritional purposes. diet in many areas. Often these required
There were no refrigeration or storage advanced preparation techniques to
containers. Local knowledge of which plants neutralise toxins and to make them
were edible, palatable, or delicious, as well palatable and nutritious. In certain coastal
as the best time for harvest and preparation areas, shellfish were plentiful and easily
methods were passed down by word of harvested. Aboriginals also caught fish in
mouth to the next generation. It’s referred to the oceans and rivers using hooks, spears
as “bush tucker” or “bush food”. and fish traps.

Traditional Bush Tucker ingredients might include:

• Lemon myrtle: fresh leaf, or ground dried • Wattle seed: A small, oval, black variety
leaf of the Lemon Myrtle tree of the Acacia seed. Wattle seed is used in
many foods including rice, soups, meat
• Mountain Pepper: ground leaf or berries
rubs and baked goods.
of the mountain pepper tree
• Damper: a traditional bread made with
• Native spinach: warrugul greens, a native
ground seeds and cooked in the coals of
spinach growing in coastal areas
the fire
• Bush tomatoes: small tomato-like fruits,
• Yabbies: a little freshwater crustacean
also called desert raising
that lurks on the bottom of streams,
• Macadamia nut: native of Australia, now lakes and in farm dams
grown in other places

49
Modern Bushfood Industry as stewed chops, potato dumplings and
jam pudding. They were all simple recipes,
There is a novelty value in bush tucker for not requiring complicated ingredients, or
many people and it’s now part of Australia’s costing much money, a style of cooking
tourism industry. The modern industry that reflected the modest means of the
makes use of plants in different ways from time. Many recipes, in hand written recipe
those of the Aborigines, for example for books, brought to Australia by migrant
flavour, instead of nutrition. women have been passed from one cook to
another down the years and still form part
Bush tucker plants are used now for jams, of “traditional” Australian food.
chutney and jellies, flavourings (eg. Lemon
Myrtle), spices (eg. Mountain Pepper), Modern Cuisine
drinks, sauces, colours (eg. Davidson’s
plum). Australian food traditions have been shaped
by people who have settled in Australia.
Only one indigenous plant, the Macadamia In the 19th and especially 20th century,
nut, has been well established in food began to reflect the influences of
horticulture, and even then most of the Mediterranean and Asian cultures. There
early work was done by Americans. Some are, however, a new series of uniquely
Americans even refer to it as the Hawaiian Australian foods emerging. Things like
Nut, since it has been grown extensively kangaroo kebabs (yes, they eat their
there. national animal!) and crocodile steak are
gaining popularity, and Aussies are also
Early Settler Food inventing more and more of their own
recipes. A large influence on Australian
Due to Australia’s youth, all “Aussie” foods foods is the availability and low price of
have traceable links to other countries, meats - Australia is the world’s largest beef
mainly England. These people brought producer. 
with them traditional English recipes such

Traditional Aboriginal
“bush tucker” uses
ingredients such as
grubs and ants.

50
Overall, Australians eat a large variety of Anzac
food, consisting of Australian dishes and biscuits are
mainstream overseas dishes. Chinese and shared with
Italian varieties are particularly popular, New Zealand
although all sorts of meals, from Burmese and are hard,
to Ukrainian, are available. Restaurants crispy cookies
whose cuisine includes contemporary made with
adaptations, interpretations or fusions of oats and molasses.
these culinary influences are often labeled
with the term “Modern Australian”. There To get an idea about the importance of
are many, many superb restaurants full of the meat pie in Australia, the quantity of
innovative and skilled chefs. meat is regulated by law and cannot be
inferior to 25% of the total weight of the
There are a pie. Competitions to find the best meat pie
small minority maker in Australia is carried out annually
of wholly and can bring
Australian prestige and
products, such big bucks to
as Vegemite the winners. In
(very salty yeast South Australia
spread), which small pies are
the rest of the world detests; Pavlovas sometimes
(meringue covered in whipped cream and served inverted on a bed of pea soup,
fruit) - although Kiwis will hotly contest covered in tomato sauce, and called a “pie
the origins of this; and Lamingtons, floater”.
chocolate coated cubes of sponge cake,
rolled in desiccated coconut. It is said Sausages also make up a large part of
that Lamingtons were invented in the many an Australian’s diet. The basic beef
Queensland Government House kitchen as sausage costs around $3 a kilo, and hence
a creative use for stale sponge cake and is the ideal food for any occasion. Although
they are named after Lady Lamington, the their nutritional value is questionable, they
wife of the Governor of Queensland from are quick and easy to cook and can be part
1896 to 1901. of countless meals, particularly barbecues
of which Aussies are very fond. Other
common Aussie dinners might be stir-fry,
roast dinners, pizza, pasta, salads or fish
and other seafood (make sure you try some
wild barramundi, southern bluefin tuna,
and Moreton Bay bugs).

51
Cheers!
Whether you prefer beer or wine, chances are you’ll end up sampling some of Australia’s
characteristic liquid fare. Note: the legal drinking age in Australia is 18.

Beer Wine

Australia is a nation of beer – it’s practically The first grape vines were brought to
the national drink. It’s the most consumed Australia in 1788, and there are now over
alcoholic beverage in Australia, and there’s 550 winemakers producing world-class
nothing better on a sweltering day than wines throughout Australia. The demand
a cold “stubby” (small bottle of beer). is high and new vineyards are being
Australians can drink it at an amazingly constantly planted.
rapid pace, too.
Popular white wines in Australia include
Popular Australian beers are VB (Victoria Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and
Bitter); XXXX (pronounced “Four X”) which Semillon. When it comes to reds, it’s all
is slightly weaker; Carlton; and Fosters. about Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot
There’s also Cascade, which is made Noir and the worldwide hit, Shiraz.
from water from a Tasmanian mountain.
Most beer ranges from about 4.8 to 5.2% Note: Although Syrah was originally called
per cent, although you can also get “mid- “Shiraz” in Australia and Syrah elsewhere,
strengths” which are about 3.6%. its dramatic commercial success has led
many Syrah producers around the world to
Some places use the traditional British label their wine “Shiraz”.
measurements of “pints” and half-pints”.
In NSW, it’s either a “schooner” or a “midi”. One of the greatest Australia inventions of
In Victoria it’s a “pot” or a “glass”. However, packaging is the “cask”, a carton box with
an S.A schooner is the same size as an a tap to regulate the amount, with no corks
NSW midi, and a W.A midi is the same as to be taken out or put back in. Very easy,
an NSW midi but you can also get an even simple and cheap. Just to have an Idea, a 4
smaller glass called a “pony”. It may just be litre cask costs about AU$12, and the wine
easier to order it by the bottle… ranges from not-so-good to very good.

If you want something a little more


upmarket, you can visit one of the country’s
hundreds of wineries. Australia has about
60 wine regions located across the country

52
3
with 103 “defined geographic indications”
for wine growing districts covering zones, great wineries:
regions and sub-regions.
Wynns Coonawarra
(www.wynns.com.au)
However, the following ten are among its
most famous and diverse. From the rugged Balnaves of Coonawarra
and isolated beauty of Margaret River in (www.balnaves.com.au)
W.A. to the historical home of Australian Katnook Estate
wine, the Hunter Valley in N.S.W, a journey (www.katnookestate.com.au)
across Australia’s wine regions is filled with
a diversity of climates, soils, elevation and, 3. Clare Valley, S.A.
of course, varieties of wine! This picturesque region is known as the home
of Australian Riesling, and it also produces
1. Barossa Valley, S.A. award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon and
Home to some of the country’s iconic wines, Shiraz. You can take the popular “Rielsing
the Barossa valley is renowned for its Shiraz Trail”, a 27km long sealed track that links the
production. Beautiful rolling hills and a many small towns along the way.
Mediterranean climate combine to produce
rich reds and delicate whites including
Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Mourvedre,
Merlot, Riesling, Semillon and Chardonnay.
3 great wineries:
There are over 50 wineries in the region. Little Brampton Wines
(www.littlebramptonwines.com.au)
Annie’s Lane

3 great wineries: (www.annieslane.com.au)


Wilson Vineyard
Hobbs of Barossa Ranges (www.wilsonvineyard.com.au)
(www.hobbsvintners.com.au)
Sons of Eden 4. Heathcote, Vic.
(www.sonsofeden.com) The Mt Camel range of mountains creates a
Penfolds (www.penfolds.com.au) cooler climate in the grape-growing period
in this region, resulting in grapes with taste
2. Coonawarra, S.A. and longevity. The region is famous for
This region has a layer of limestone sitting Shiraz but recently winemakers have been
beneath its rich soil, and when the two mixing small amounts of Viognier grapes to
combine they produce Cabernet Sauvignon give it an extra dimension. Other signature
grapes that are second to none. Other varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot
varietals that have won awards in the region Grigio, and Riesling, and Italian varieties
are Shiraz, Merlot and Chardonnay. Sangiovese and Nebbiolo also grow there.

53
3 great wineries: 3 great wineries:
Eppalock Ridge (www.eppalockridge.com) Brini Estate Wines
Whistling Eagle Vineyard (www.briniwines.com.au)
(www.whistlingeagle.com) Gemtree Vineyards
Shelmerdine Vineyards (www.gemtreevineyards.com.au)
(www.shelmerdine.com.au) Tapestry Wines
(www.tapestrywines.com.au)

5. Hunter Valley, N.S.W


Australia’s oldest wine region now has 7. Margaret River, W.A.
over 80 wineries and is famous for Shiraz, While all the classic varietals are well-
Verdelho and Chardonnay, but particularly represented in this region, Margaret
for its Semillon. Hunter Valley Semillons River winemakers are most noted
age particularly well and the grapes have a for their Cabernet Sauvignons. The
distinct citrus flavour. breathtaking coastal scenery is the perfect
accompaniment to the extensive range of
wine styles including Shiraz, Verdelho and

3 great wineries: Sauvignon Blanc.

Mistletoe Wines
(www.mistletoewines.com.au)
Brokenwood Wines
3 great wineries:

(www.brokenwood.com.au) Windance Estate (www.windance.com.au)

Capercaillie Cullen Wines (www.cullenwines.com.au)

(www.capercailliewine.com.au) Brookland Valley


(www.brooklandvalley.com.au)

6. McLaren Vale, S.A.


This region south of Adelaide is Barossa 8. Mudgee, N.S.W
valley’s rival for the top Shiraz maker. It’s Located in the western slopes of the famous
combination of a seaside location and rich Blue Mountains, Mudgee is another of
soil results in intense reds such as Shiraz, Australia’s oldest wine regions. Cabernet
Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Merlot, Sauvignon and Chardonnay are its most
and striking whites such as Chardonnay, popular varietals, available from a range of
Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling from more large wine companies through to boutique
than 50 wineries. wineries.

54
3
10. Yarra Valley, Vic.
great wineries: Considered one of the world’s finest
cold-climate wine producers, Yarra valley
Logan Wines (www.loganwines.com.au) specialises in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Farmer’s Daughter Wines The Chardonnay, in particular, is the most
(www.farmersdaughterwines.com.au) widely-planted grape variety due to its
Lowe Family Wines flexibility. Other white wines produced in
(www.lowewines.com.au) the yarra Valley include Gewurtztraminer,
Marsanne and Sauvignon Blanc, which is
often blended with Semillon.
9. Tasmania
Tasmania’s cooler maritime climate

3
produces stately wines with superb natural
acid, coming from over 60 wineries, some great wineries:
just a few acres in size. Specialist varieties
De Bortoli Wines (www.debortoli.com.au)
include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling,
Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Sauvignon and Dominique Portet
Cabernet Franc. (www.dominiqueportet.com)
Labyrinth (www.labyrinthwine.com)

3 great wineries:
Bay of Fires Wines
(www.bayoffireswines.com.au)
Tamar Ridge Wines
(www.tamarridgewines.com.au)
Piper’s Brook Vineyard
(www.kreglingerwineestates.com)

beer is the most


consumed alcoholic
beverage in australia.

55
50 fantastic Places to Visit!
There are so many things to see and do in 2. Esperance, W.A.
Australia that it’s impossible to list them all. The blindingly white sandy beaches
and brilliant turquoise waters of the
Of course, there are the main ones that it Esperance area in Western Australia
would be odd to not have on the list, such place the region at the top of many
as Sydney, the huge monolith Uluru, and campervanners’ best destinations list.
the Great Barrier Reef, but don’t forget Esperance itself boasts a stunning 38-
that Australia has so much more to offer kilometre scenic drive that follows the
– charming towns, breathtaking beaches, local coastline and then loops back into
rainforest villages, imposing mountains town. There are several idyllic beaches
and picturesque farmland. Following are 50 where you can take a break for a swim
highly-recommended spots. as well as some lovely walkways and
viewing platforms for some incredible
1. Busselton, W.A coastal scenery. And, if it’s stunning
A comfortable three-hour drive from non-caravan park camping spots you’re
Perth, Busselton boasts some 30 after, you’re in luck. The region also has
kilometres of sheltered sandy beaches three national parks.
with calm, clear and safe waters. Many
campervanners use the township 3. Arltunga Historical Reserve -
as a base from which to explore the MacDonnell Ranges, east of Alice
region’s numerous other attractions. Springs, N.T.
The wonders of Leeuwin-Naturaliste You’ll enjoy having a look through the
National Park, Ngilgi Cave and Cape ruins of this old mining community.
Naturaliste Lighthouse are only a short There is an information centre that
drive away. provides visitors with lots of history

The Busselton Jetty is


the longest wooden
pier in the Southern
Hemisphere.

56
- especially the hardships miners Outback activities, caves, canyons,
endured during the gold rush. gorges, walks, opals, steam trains and
even volcanoes. Central to the northern
4. Darwin, N.T. part of the National Park is the amazing
It’s growing fast and is a completely Wilpena Pound, a quite spectacular
different place to the one that was natural amphitheatre that is five
so famously devastated by Cyclone kilometres wide and 10 kilometres long.
Tracy a few decades back. It’s tropical,
multicultural, relaxed and unique.The 6. St Helens, East Coast of Tasmania
big draw - besides the weather - for Like a mini-Riviera right there in Oz!
most visitors is the markets that sell all This truly is one of the most scenic
sorts of Asian foods, veges and arts and spots on the east coast of Tasmania and
crafts. Plus, a Northern Territory sunset is the gateway to the Bay of Fires to the
is like no other on earth and, all along north and Scamander in the south. You
the coast, mini parties kick off as people can have lunch in the charming marina
bring their campchairs and a bottle of beside the boats and there is a fish and
wine to enjoy the nightly show. chip shop right on the water open for
lunches.
5. Flinders Ranges, S.A.
The fabulous Flinders is often portrayed 7. Yamba, NSW
as the gateway to the Outback and that’s Liberally blessed with a perfect
exactly what it is. Situated only 160 climate, quasi-bohemian lifestyle and
kilometres or so north of Port Augusta unrivalled surf beaches, the jewel in
in South Australia, its accessibility, as Yamba’s surfing crown is the revered
well as its incredible beauty, make the and treacherous Angourie point break
Flinders a very popular destination – beginners need not apply. Picture
during peak season. The Flinders postcard pretty, Yamba prides itself on
Ranges has it all – ghost towns and providing a relaxed, unpretentious and
ghost stories, ancient Aboriginal art, peaceful getaway.

This ruined
farmhouse is part of
a ghost town in the
Flinders Ranges.

57
8. Lake Eyre, S.A. one eighth of the world’s Dugongs are
In S.A.’s remote interior 700kms north also found here, along with 11 species
of Adelaide lies a huge, flat, salty lake of endemic birds and eight species of
that hardly ever contains water. But endemic reptiles.
whenever there’s rain, it attracts a
wealth of birdlife and wildlife, including 10. Jewel Cave, Margaret River, W.A.
dingoes, and is a fascinating place to Deep inside dazzling Jewel Cave in
see. It’s the lowest point in Australia so Margaret River hangs the largest calcite
trying to reach it on foot or in vehicles straw stalactite of any show cave (open
can be treacherous, so many choose to to the public) in the world. Longer straw
view it from the air. Various tours offer stalactites exist, but they’re very difficult
joyrides over the 9500km2 saltpan that to gain access to. They’re very delicate,
fills or near-fills only around four times narrow and hollow, and the jewel of
a century. Jewel Cave is a staggering 5.4m long.
As well as being one of the largest show
9. Shark Bay, W.A caves in Australia, Jewel is also one of
This is a World Heritage area, and for the world’s youngest. Its main chamber
good reason – or several. The oldest is 90m long and 30m high and guided
living things on the planet (oxygen- tours take you through the exceptional
excreting stromatolites whose ancestors forms and beautiful chambers of its
go back 3.5 billion years and they uniquely formed soft Tamala limestone.
themselves are a few thousand) live in
the salty Hamelin Pool to the south. 11. Dreamworld, Gold Coast, Qld.
The area is also home to the world’s As well as the obvious attractions,
only major populations of Burrowing Dreamworld is also home to Frankie,
Bettong, Rufous Hare Wallabies, the world’s first blue-eyed koala. Born in
Banded Hare Wallabies, Western Barred April 2007 and named after the equally
Bandicoots and Shark Bay Mice. Around famous blue-eyed Sinatra, it’s unknown

Lake eyre is one of


the largest salt
lakes in the world.

58
whether his eyes are due to a remote also fantastic and the harbour hosts the
genetic strand or a random event, but world’s largest annual fireworks display
while koalas can be found in the wild on New Year’s Eve.
throughout Australia (except Tasmania
and W.A.), Frankie is the world’s only 14. The Pinnacles, Nambung National
known blue-eyed koala. Park, W.A.
These tall, jagged limestone pillars
12. Cape Tribulation, Qld. about three hours north of Perth were
Around 110km north of Cairns, “Cape buried under sand dunes for hundreds
Trib” is the only place on Earth where of years before being exposed to the
two World Heritage-listed areas lie side wind. There are about one thousand of
by side: the Daintree Rainforest, the them (still being simultaneously buried
most ancient and primeval in the world and exposed). They make an amazingly
at 135 million years of age, and the surreal photo opportunity, especially at
world’s largest coral reef ecosystem, sunset – particularly if you visit between
the Great Barrier Reef. Described as the August and October when a spectacular
“land that time forgot”, the Daintree is display of wildflowers blooms in the
home to 20 percent of Australia’s bird area.
species and around 60 percent of its
butterfly species. There are even ancient 15. The National Gallery of Victoria,
species of trees – like the Idiospermum Melbourne, Vic.
australiense and King fern – which The international branch of the gallery
were believed to be extinct for millions in St Kilda, and its Ian Potter Centre, off
of years until being rediscovered in the Federation Square, combine to offer a
Daintree. collection of international art including
works by Rembrandt, Delacroix, Van
13. Sydney Harbour, N.S.W. Eyck, Gainsborough, El Greco, Monet,
There are so many ways to experience Manet, Matisse and many more, not
one of the most exciting harbours in to mention over 20 rooms dedicated to
the world – cruise on it, sail on it, swim Australian art.
in it, fish in it, eat on it, drive over or
under it, view it from Taronga Zoo or an 16. Kakadu National Park, N.T.
island in it… you can also walk around it: Even though visiting here is much
28km of tracks, many through national more comfortable in the dry season
parks and along beaches, form the (lower temperatures and much less
Harbour Circle Walk. Make sure you rain), many travellers say that seeing it
visit The Rocks, the site of Old Sydney during the wet, or early dry season is
Town, to visit the historic buildings and the only time to do so. You’ll experience
The Rocks Market. Sydney Aquarium is the splendour of bright tropical colours,

59
humidity and raging storms and 19. Cape Byron, N.S.W.
waterways for much more dramatic The cape is the most easterly point on
effect. Located there are 75 different Australia’s mainland, so a good place
kinds of reptile, 26 types of bat, 10,000 to visit if you want to feel like you’ve
species of insect and 2000 types of done the country properly! It doesn’t
plants plus prolific Aboriginal rock art. come free though – you have to climb
the World Heritage-listed Mt Warning
17. Marree Man, S.A. first. It’s the first place in Australia to be
While there are many fascinating touched by the sun each morning and is
geoglyphs in Australia, the world’s a popular place for wedding proposals.
biggest lies in the remote centre of the
southern state, the origins of which are 20. Broome, W.A.
still a mystery. 60km west of the town of While this pearling town itself is a little
Marree, the huge drawing on the ground unspectacular, the same can’t be said
is of an Aboriginal man hunting with a for the surrounding area and beaches
stick and is over 4km long. Take a flying with their clear blue water, white sand
tour and see Lake Eyre (no.8) at the and gentle swells. Town Beach at the
same time. eastern end of the town is the site
of the famous Stairway to the Moon,
18. Whitsunday Islands, Qld. where a receding tide and a rising moon
This dazzling setting north east of combine to create a magnificent natural
Mackay almost defies belief with its phenomenon. On these nights, a food a
hundreds of insanely beautiful islands, craft market operates on the beach.
sparkling turquoise water, lush
rainforest, bright coral and pure white 21. MacDonnell Ranges, N.T.
sand. Any time of the year is equally These mountains to the east and west
beautiful but you’re likely to spot whales of Alice Springs offer a stunning array
if you go between July and September. of gorges and different-coloured rock

the stunning
whitsunday islands
are a must see.

60
formations. The most famous of the buy them, with an abundance of shops
gorges and camping spots are found selling the whole range of fashionable
in the West MacDonnell National Park. surfwear and beach accessories, or
Ormiston Gorge is the most well- visit the popular beachside markets on
established campsite and even boasts Sundays.
solar heated showers, as well as a
visitor centre and live-in rangers. As 24. Port Douglas, Qld.
with all of the gorges, there are some An hour north of Cairns, this tropical
wonderful walks to be enjoyed and there seaside town boasts a relaxed
are swimming opportunities along the atmosphere, balmy weather, superb
way. restaurants and the closest proximity to
the Great Barrier Reef than anywhere in
22. Stanley and the Nut, Tasmania Australia. It’s also close to the Daintree
In the rugged north western region of rainforest, Mossman Gorge and various
Tasmania is the little town of Stanley, other attractions, and its Rainforest
nestled at the base of a huge volcanic Habitat Wildlife Sanctuary is the only
plug known as “The Nut”. If you’re place in the world where you can see
feeling energetic you can walk to the eight species of kangaroo in one park
top of The Nut (or just take the chairlift) (not to mention cassowaries, koalas,
for stunning views of the Bass Strait, or parrots, crocs and much more).
take tours to spot seals, penguins, sea
birds and other wildlife close to Stanley. 25. Western Plains Zoo, Dubbo, W.A.
The town itself is “toy-town” gorgeous Built according to an open range
with well-maintained historic buildings principle, Western Plains Zoo keeps
that look like dollhouses. its 1100-plus animals from all over the
world apart using moats rather than
23. Bondi Beach, Sydney, N.S.W. fences. The effect is spellbinding: you
With its lifesavers, surfers, sun drive down a road or walk along a track
worshippers and barefoot locals, Bondi and can easily imagine you’re on an
is a definitive example of Sydney’s African plain, surrounded by wildlife
city beach culture. While the beach is in its natural habitat. The zoo is also a
popular, cross Campbell Parade and renowned centre for the care of wildlife,
enjoy Bondi away from the sand. Take breeding programs, conservation
in the view of the Pacific from one of programs and education facilities. It’s
the laidback outdoor cafes or trendy acknowledged as Australia’s great open
restaurants that serve lively crowds with plains zoo. It also offers accommodation
brunch, lunch and dinner. Watch for so you could skip the campervan for
celebrities from behind your sunglasses. the night and go to sleep in a tent to the
Don’t have any? Bondi is the place to sound of lions roaring.

61
26. Undara Lave Tubes, Qld. this lovely area, including the fish. The
275km west of Cairns are the Undara entire area around Katherine, located
Lava Tubes, formed some 190,000 years 340km south of Darwin, is characterised
ago when a major volcano erupted, its by limestone formations with bubbling
molten lava flowing down a dry river thermal springs - and plenty of
bed. As the eruption slowed and then convoluted cave systems.
stopped, the lava drained out of the
tubes leaving a series of long, hollow 28. Twelve Apostles, Vic.
tunnels. (One section of the tubes These giant rock pillars that rise out
known as “The Wall” is the closest of the Southern Ocean are the central
geological example on Earth of basaltic feature of the rugged Port Campbell
ridges on the Moon, which were also National Park. They were originally
formed by lava flows). Ancient roof created by erosion of the limestone cliffs
collapses created deep, dark and moist of the mainland which, as they softened,
depressions where fertile pockets of formed caves and then arches which
rainforest can now be seen. Visit there in eventually collapsed leaving stacks of
the third week of October when Undara rock. Viewed from lookouts along the
Experiences put on “Opera in the Great Ocean road, there may not at
Outback” at sunset. first appear to be twelve “apostles”,
but others are located behind rocky
27. Nitmiluk Katherine Gorge, N.T. headlands and outcrops.
This 12km-long series of 13 stunning
gorges with highly reflective waters and 29. Broken Hill, N.S.W.
stark, 70m-high walls is picture-perfect, As well as being a great base from
and a magnificent experience from start which to explore New South Wales,
to finish. There are more than 100km Broken Hill is one of the world’s most
of walking trails around the gorge, prolific art posts – Sydney mayor Frank
allowing visitors to take their time and Sartor once called it “the only country
meet much of the wildlife abundant in town in Australia with more art galleries

The twelve apostles


are the central
feature of the great
ocean road.

62
than pubs.” A must-see is the Sculpture the “range to reef” experience, with the
Symposium, also known as the Living spectacular Cape Range National Park
Desert Reserve, where you can see bordering the spellbinding Ningaloo
huge sandstone sculptures from 12 Reef. The climate is gorgeous, the
different artists. Broken Hill is a gateway swimming and fishing are incredible
to the Outback and even has its own and box jellyfish don’t venture this far
ghost town. south.

30. Great Barrier Reef, Qld. 32. Coff’s Harbour, N.S.W.


The largest structure composed of living This city on the north coast of N.S.W
organisms in the world, it’s easy to is just about halfway between Sydney
see why this is a favourite site of divers and Brisbane. Its major claim to fame
across the globe. It’s 2,300kms-worth is the iconic “Big Banana” located just
of mesmerising under-seascape of north of the city on the Pacific Highway,
coral, fish, molluscs, turtles, dolphins one of Australia’s most recognisable
and much more. Gateways stretch all tourist attractions that it’s almost a
the way along the north east coast of crime not to have your photo taken in
Australia, so you’re spoilt for choice. You front of. Coff’s Harbour is also reputed
haven’t experienced Australia unless to have the best climate in Australia
you’ve seen this magnificent natural which combined with its beautiful
wonder. mountainous and coastal landscape,
makes it a bit of a mini-paradise.
31. Exmouth Region, W.A.
Located on the very tip of the North 33. Kangaroo Island, S.A.
West Cape, the location was originally This is Australia’s third-largest island
a military base in WWII, and later after Tasmania and Melville Island
supported a nearby United States naval and is home to fantastic swimming
communication station. Nowadays, it’s and surfing beaches, shipwrecks and
more of a tourist town, and can boast National Parks. It’s also a sanctuary

the great barrier


reef is like a neon
underwater fairyland.

63
for many native animals that were 35. Longreach, Qld.
otherwise under threat from animals Roll up your swag and go bush at
such as dingoes and foxes. The main Longreach, a town steeped in Outback
towns are Kingscote and Penneshaw, history and heritage in north west
with American River in between that Queensland. Situated about 1200
shelters the bird sanctuary Pelican kilometres northwest of Brisbane, you
Lagoon. Catch the Kangaroo Island can visit the Australian Stockman’s
Sealink Vehicular Ferry from Cape Hall of Fame (a tribute to Australia’s
Jervis on the mainland. Outback heroes including a variety
of traditional artefacts, electronic
34. Windjana Gorge, Kimberley, W.A. displays, photographs, films and stories
Even if you’re not taking the Gibb River of bush life) or the Qantas Founders
road, it’s worth taking a detour to Outback Museum which includes a
see this impressive gorge that offers decommissioned Qantas Boeing 747.
stunning bushwalking through the Alternatively, there’s unbelievable
Outback wilderness. Unlike many sunsets, breathtaking night skies, vast
Kimberley gorges, it’s easily accessible Mitchell Grass plains, an abundance
(only in the dry season though) by of unique wildlife, and the tranquil
following a 3.5km path through a coolibah-lined Thomson River.
monsoonal strip of vegetation and
permanent pools that remain after the 36. Devil’s Marbles/Karlu Karlu, N.T.
wet season. The walls of the gorge rise Located about 114kms south of Tennant
up from the floodplain of the Lennard Creek, the Devil’s Marbles (or Karlu
River, reaching 100m high in some Karlu to the traditional Aboriginal
places. It’s one of the best places for owners) are gigantic, rounded granite
seeing freshwater crocs in the wild – boulders, some spectacularly poised,
and the campsite is excellent, too. making for a remarkable landscape.
Scattered clusters of these “marbles”

The devil’s
marbles, or
karlu karlu,
are a sacred
aboriginal site.

64
are spread across a wide, shallow valley. 38. St Kilda, Melbourne, Vic.
Many diverse traditional “Dreaming” St. Kilda is situated on the coast to the
stories intersect at and around Karlu east of the city and is considered to be
Karlu, giving it great importance as a one of Melbourne’s most fashionable
sacred site. The precarious piles of huge suburbs. Apart from the very popular
granite boulders, wide open skies, and beach, which during the summer
golden sunlight make Karlu Karlu an months attracts thousands of visitors,
unforgettable place to visit. The Reserve there are a number of other attractions
is accessible all year round and has a in St Kilda to keep you occupied. Visiting
network of pathways with information Luna Park, built in 1912, is a must! It is
boards and a basic camping area. a charming historic seaside amusement
park complete with a wooden roller
37. Cape York, Qld. coaster and other rides. For evening
Australia’s northernmost point is still entertainment try the Esplanade Hotel,
an untamed wilderness that has defied which has comedy nights and various
the onslaught of civilisation – although bands playing.
some say not for too much longer. The
dusty tracks contrast dramatically with 39. Innes National Park, N.S.W.
the abundant river systems, crystal On the southern tip of the Yorke
clear creeks and spectacular waterfalls. Peninsula, Innes National Park
If you love bushwalking, wildlife, fishing, encompasses spectacular coastal
bird watching and remote camping, landscapes rich in mining and maritime
Cape York is for you. The gateway to history and is a major wildlife habitat
Cape York is Cooktown, a gold rush town of the area. Starting at Stenhouse
with an interesting history. Cooktown is bay, there’s a $5 fee for vehicles – but
only accessible for campervans by the from there there’s hours of scenery.
inland road, via the Mulligan Highway There’s also a wide variety of recreation
and the Peninsula Development Road, opportunities including bushwalking,
and once there you’d have to rent a 4WD bird watching, photography, discovering
to access the Cape. But it’s worth it. the Aboriginal and European history,

Catch a tram to
Melbourne’s St Kilda.

65
fishing and surfing. South Australia’s and maintain a temperature of 39
most prestigious surfing event, the degrees. Two-thirds of Australia’s cotton
Cutloose Yorke’s Surfing Classic, is held is grown in the Moree region and if you
in Innes National Park every October. time your visit for February, you‘ll see
You need a permit to camp in this area. millions of bulbous white fibres bursting
from cotton plants in vast fields – a
40. Fraser Island, Qld. spectacular sight. The Pecan Nut Farm
The world’s largest sand island, Fraser is another main attraction which is
Island contains half of the world’s located 35 kilometres east of Moree on
freshwater perched dune lakes and the Gwydir Highway.
is the only place in the world above
elevations of 200m where tall rainforest 42. Cradle Mountain, Tasmania
grows directly on sand dunes. Its This is a distinctive mountain in the
freshwater lakes are among the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National
cleanest on the planet, the beach is Park and is said to be one of the
both highway and runway, and some of most beautiful places on the planet.
the purest breeds of dingoes live there. Composed of dolerite columns, it has
Leave the campervan in Hervey Bay (3.5 four summits. Take one of 20 walking
hours out of Brisbane) and take a 35 tracks to suit any fitness level (it’s a
minute boat ride to this World Heritage- tough trek to the top and takes 8 hours),
listed site. see flora and fauna found nowhere else
on earth, mountain bike, fly fish, or take
41. Moree, N.S.W. a trail on horseback. There are three
This region is known for its hot thermal lakes at the bottom: Crater Lake, Lake
mineral pools (discovered accidentally Wilks, and Dove Lake – the deepest in
in 1895 when searching for irrigation Australia.
water) created from bores sunk into
the amazing Great Artesian Basin. 43. North Stradbroke Island, Qld.
The famous healing waters are said to Known as “Straddle” to the locals,
contain at least eight different minerals this island is only 90 minutes away

cradle mountain in
tasmania is famous for
its picturesque beauty.

66
from downtown Brisbane (accessible 45. Canberra, A.C.T.
by vehicular ferry) but feels like days. The political hub of Australia, Canberra
The island itself is a mixture of rugged is a planned city similar in architectural
coastlines, placid inland lakes, and concept to Washington D.C. It’s
unspoilt beaches. The eastern side of surrounded by bushland and is home to
the island is lined with 35 kilometres of come of the country’s best museums,
white sandy beaches, however it is only national attractions and restaurants.
accessible by four wheel drive, bicycle
or on foot. There are numerous popular 46. Blue Mountains, N.S.W.
camping sites dotted all the way down The foothills of the Blue Mountains start
Main Beach. A fantastic, laid-back approximately 50kms west of Sydney’s
combination of pristine wilderness and metropolitan area. The sandstone
modern facilities, restaurants and cafes. plateau is dissected by deep gorges
and the “Giant Staircase” walking track
44. Downtown Melbourne, Vic. takes you down a cliff into the Jamison
Australia’s second-largest city is Valley for a view of the Three Sisters,
often compared to Sydney but they the most famous rock formation in the
are completely different. Melbourne region. Also worth experiencing is the
is less flashy, much more stately and Katoomba Scenic World, home of the
old-world. Take a tram ride (the Circle Katoomba Scenic Railway (the steepest
City Tram is free and has running railway in the world), a revolving
commentary on history, attractions and restaurant and an aerial cable car.
famous places of downtown Melbourne);
stroll through the stunning Botanic 47. Noosa region, Sunshine Coast, Qld.
Gardens; or visit one of two scenic This area is rich in Aboriginal and
lookouts in Melbourne - both the Eureka early settler history as well as being a
Tower Skydeck and the Rialto Towers & lovely slice of Queensland heaven. The
Observation Deck have awesome views shire has a cluster of suburbs (none of
of the downtown and suburbs. which are actually called Noosa) and

the “three sisters”


rock formation in the
blue mountains is a
famous australian
landmark.

67
a hinterland region. Spend a day on The Creation. The rocks are best viewed
the Noosa River watching the birdlife, at sunset and many visitors say they can
or exploring the mountain range and feel a strong spiritual energy there.
inland plains with their rambling
streams and waterfalls. Alternatively, 50. Port Arthur, Tasmania
visit one of the many fabulous beaches Port Arthur Historic Site on the Tasman
– anywhere called the “Sunshine Coast” Peninsula is Australia’s best-preserved
sounds pretty good, right? and most evocative convict site. More
than 30 buildings, ruins and period
48. Kununurra, Kimberley, W.A. homes dating from 1830 to the prison’s
This town’s name translates to “the closure in 1877 provide an insight into
meeting of the big waters” and water is the lives of those who were part of
definitely a feature – gorges, waterfalls, the penal settlement including 12,500
rivers, streams and creeks are all convicts, soldiers, civilians and their
there waiting to be fished in, swum on, families. Nearby is Point Puer Boys
gazed upon or cruised on. There’s also Prison where you can walk among the
amazing corresponding flora, wildlife remains of structures built by the boys
and landscape alongside a friendly, in a bush landscape little changed since
lively town. the 19th century.

49. The Olgas/Kata Tjuta, N.T.


This site, whose name means “many
heads” to the Aborigines, is a group of
about 30 huge rounded red rocks rising
out of the desert plains, the highest
of which is called Mt Olga. Like their
nearby neighbour, Uluru (26kms away)
they form a site sacred to the Aborigines
which is frequently featured in stories of

the kata tjuta


rocks are
neighbours of the
monlith uluru.

68
Off the Beaten Track
With a country as big as Australia, it’s hill. From the top of the hill though are
worthwhile veering off the beaten path to stunning views of white sand, verdant
experience some more unusual or remote bush and brilliant blue water, sometime
spots – and there is no shortage of them. populated with dolphins.

1. Old Dadswell Town, Vic. 3. Wave Rock, Hyden, W.A.


A wonderful spot full of Aussie humour. This unique rock formation (part of the
The township consists of a Village northern face of Hyden rock) sculptured
Square surrounded by “old” typical by time and the elements stands 15m
Australia buildings (which are actually high and 100m long, looking exactly
all very tastefully furnished B & Bs). like a huge frozen wave that is eternally
Campervanners are more than welcome about to crash. Mineral deposits have
to pop in and take a peek, and you coloured it in artistic stripes that add to
can overnight provided you are self the sweeping effect, and it’s surrounded
contained. You are welcome to use the by smaller granite “breakers”. It’s an
“Shire Office” (the public restroom!). impressive site and a spectacular photo
A must-see photographer’s paradise opportunity, as is the surrounding
just a few kilometres past Horsham wildlife and bushland, and Hippo’s Yawn,
(travelling west). another distinctively shaped formation
nearby.
2. Wineglass Bay, Tasmania
So often the most beautiful places are 4. Venom Zoo, Kuranda, Qld.
crowded with people because they are If you’re in Cairns take a drive up into
so beautiful. Not so with Wineglass Bay the mountains to the rainforest village
in Tasmania, probably due to the fact of Kuranda and its fascinating Venom
that it’s only accessibly by foot – about Zoo – home to beasties you won’t find in
an hour’s walk over the steep crest of a any other zoo in the world. Aside from

wave rock makes


a great photo
opportunity.

69
daily live venom extractions, they also of the lake (approximately 55km west
house a variety of tarantulas (some up from the townsite of Menzies) are 51
to 17cm), Australia’s top five venomous stainless steel sculptures by artist
snakes, scorpions, centipedes, insects Antony Gormley created from laser
and reptiles. The various venoms are scans of naked residents of the town.
sent all over the world for medical The strangely alien-like figures were
research to find cures for some of the then placed at intervals across the
most fatal diseases – so if these guys blank canvas of the million-year-old salt
aren’t your cup of tea, perhaps a visit lake, making for an eerie and haunting
here will improve your opinion of them! installation, particularly at dawn and
dusk. A book of the process has since
5. Ormiston Gorge, N.T. been published, called Antony Gormley:
After travelling from Alice Springs up Inside Australia.
the Mereenie Loop Road, stumbling
upon the oasis of Ormiston Gorge 7. Greens Pool, William Bay National
after dusty trails and dry riverbeds Park, W.A.
feels miraculous. Its 300m red walls Just one shining example of the many
enclose a waterhole at the southern end secret spots dotted along this coast,
that’s perfect for an undisturbed swim. Greens Pool has cool, clear, emerald-
Halfway along the Larapinta Trail in the tinged waters, and a cove with rock
West MacDonnell National Park, the pools, a sheltering shelf of granite,
gorge is just past Glen Helen at the end soft sand, tiny islands and perfect
of the sealed road section of Namatjira snorkelling. Just a little further to
Drive. the east of Greens Pool lies another
special cove, Elephant Rocks, so named
6. Lake Ballard, Menzies, W.A. because of the reddish elephantine
North of Kalgoorlie, Ballard Lake is boulders strewn everywhere that take
a barren salt lake – with a difference. on the appearance of herd of the beasts.
Scattered over 10 square kilometres Drive to Denmark, west of Albany, and

the venom zoo in


Kuranda performs
daily venom
extractions.

70
a further a further 20mins west of that, three in the world). Less than an hour
Greens Pool is at end of a track running from the carpark and you’ll be at the
right through William Bay National Park site where you can smell acrid sulphur,
to the beach. feel the heat from the 350-degree
surface and watch the smoke waft into
8. Dalhousie Springs, Simpson Desert, the air. Look for wedge-tailed eagles
S.A soaring on the thermal currents above.
The largest complex of artesian springs Interestingly, the site moves about 1m
in Australia, Dalhousie’s 70 or so active south each year, and since it’s already
thermal springs are fed by water that moved 6km it’s estimated that it’s been
comes all the way from the Great burning for about 6000. It’s just off the
Dividing Range, hundreds of kilometres New England Highway near Wingen in
to the east. When the magical liquid the Upper Hunter Valley area.
eventually gushes in, it varies from
scalding to tepid. Take a dip in the 10. Gnomesville, Ferguson Valley, W.A.
main spring, which is about bathwater What was once a couple of garden
temperature and also home to fish ornaments sitting on a roundabout ten
species found nowhere else in the years ago has grown into a virtual city of
world: the Dalhousie catfish, hardyhead, roadside garden gnomes. Garden variety
mogurnda, and gobi. You’ll find them gnomes, sports-playing gnomes, fishing
in Witjira National Park on the western gnomes, partying gnomes from all
edge of the Simpson Desert in S.A.’s far corners of the globe are all left here with
north, 180km northeast of Oodnadatta. accompanying names and messages -
in fact wishes are granted to those who
9. Burning Mountain, Upper Hunter add to the collection when they visit (and
Region, N.S.W. incredible bad luck will befall anyone
Originally thought to be an active foolish enough to steal from or damage
volcano, but actually considered Gnomesville). Go to the roundabout
the world’s oldest coal fire, Burning joining Ferguson Rd and Wellington Mill
Mountain in the Upper Hunter Region is Rd in Ferguson Valley, about a 15min
Australia’s only example of a naturally drive from Bunbury.
combusting coal seam (one of only

the ever-growing city of


gnomesville makes an
interesting detour.

71
Ten Best Australian Beaches
Australia is an island continent which is shores, cliffs, islands, towns, cities and
surrounded by water on all sides, so its coastal communities. It’s hard to pick just
border is not shared with any other country. ten, but we’ve done our best…
To the east lies the South Pacific Ocean;
west the Indian Ocean; to the north the 1. Bay of Fires, Tasmania
Timor, Arafura and Coral Seas; and to the The Bay of Fires is in fact a whole 29-
south the Southern Ocean and Tasman Sea. kilometre coastline that extends from
The Bass Strait separates Tasmania from extends from Binalong Bay in the
the mainland. south to Eddystone Point in the north.
Clean white sand, lush forest, azure
Australia boasts some of the best beaches blue water and dramatic red rocks
on the planet and the huge coastline combine to make this tranquil place one
stretches for nearly 37,000 km, which of Tasmania’s top attractions – yet no
includes 11,011 beaches, more than any one is there. There is also an amazing
other nation, so you are spoiled for choice! selection of scenic beach camping sites
Most of Australia’s cities and towns are along a well-maintained dirt road. The
located on the coast, which amounts to 12 facilities consist of a couple of long drop
million people, or 85% of Australia’s lucky toilets, but it’s all free.
population living within one hour’s drive of
the coastline. 2. Kirra Beach, Gold Coast, Qld
This beach has for many years has
Australia’s coast extends through a wide been a favourite surfing point for
range of climates from the tropical areas in many bronzed surfers worldwide and
the north to temperate/maritime areas in many surfing legends learned on
the south. Environments include rainforest, Kirra’s rolling barrels. Located just
mangroves, estuaries, rocky and sandy above the state line in Queensland’s

Tasmania’s Bay of
Fires is beautiful
- and isolated.

72
southernmost town, Kirra Point reigns 4. Cable Beach, Broome, W.A.
as the east coast’s champion maker. Renowned as one of the most stunning
There are challenging waves for the beaches in the world, whoever said
experienced surfer, as well as smaller so would be right. 22kms of blinding
waves closer to shore for beginners. white silica sand hem the Bombay
Hard-core surfers will tell you that this Sapphire-coloured waters of the Indian
beach is only a shadow of its former Ocean, providing dazzling surrounds
self, destroyed by a government sand- for swimming and relaxing – just don’t
pumping project in 2002, but this is still relax so much between November and
iconic Australia. When the swell is right, March that you forget about the stingers
you’ll see perfect barrels (not to mention though. The sunsets are magnificent,
perfect bodies). there is a variety of watersports
available, or you can take one of the
3. Four Mile Beach, Port Douglas, Far sunset camel rides that operate daily
North Qld. along the beach.
Picturesque Port Douglas has become
an international holiday mecca and Four 5. Hyams Beach, Jervis Bay, N.S.W.
Mile Beach is the jewel in the crown. Famed for having the whitest sand in
Spanning – you guessed it – four miles the world (which squeaks as you walk)
down the side of the peninsula the town - wear sun block if you decide to stroll
sits on, it shares the same tropical along it, because the reflection from the
latitude as Tahiti, and you can tell. The sun even on a cloudy day can give you a
sea is turquoise, the sun is warm, the nasty sunburn! It’s family-friendly, the
palms sway, and the low-rise hotels water is warm, blue and clear, and the
artfully hidden in the trees don’t spoil beachside Jervis Blue Café is excellent.
anything. Port Douglas’ pretty, old-
fashioned charm and proximity to the 6. Whitehaven Beach, Whitsunday Island,
reef attracts thousands of visitors each Qld.
year but even in the high season you’ll On uninhabited Whitsunday Island near
always be able to find a whole section of the Great Barrier Reef, Whitehaven
the beach to yourself. Beach is a 6km expanse of pure

cable beach in broome


is one of the most
stunning in the world.

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white silica sand gently blending into Cape Leveque is that there are no
aquamarine water. The beach, so crocodiles, no stingers, nothing to spoil
dazzling that it hurts to look at without the fun. You can swim here all day, any
sunglasses, can be reached on a day- day of the year, and that’s very unusual
trip from Airlie Beach on the mainland. at northern West Australia beaches. The
There are hundreds of similar tropical red rocks against the turquoise ocean
islands in this area. are already stunning during the day, but
in the evening sun they seem to really
7. Twilight Cove, Esperance, W.A. glow.
Twilight Cove, as the name suggests
comes to life at twilight and after dark 9. Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Island, Qld.
when there’s a full moon. Esperance, A very beautiful beach on a very
small yet beautiful, is known as the beautiful island. Lying to the north
‘Bay of Isles’. Wide sandy beaches, of this World Heritage listed island,
scenic coastlines and the panorama it feels very secluded and far away
of offshore islands of the Recherche from everything. You’re on a small
Archipelago are all part of its charm. island with a small local community
Twilight Cove is only a 10 minute of around 200 people. A street runs
drive from the Esperance townsite. alongside the beach with a number
It’s a pretty spot even in the day with of holiday accommodation places,
stunningly blue water and unusual rock restaurants, cafes and bars so you
formations. Located in the Nuytsland can sit, relax, have a drink and watch
Nature Reserve, Twilight Cove is famous the waves lapping against the shore.
along the Nullarbor for its 70 metre There’s also Horseshoe Bay Lagoon (a
limestone cliffs which overlook the short walk from Horseshoe Bay Beach
Great Australian Bight. Access to the to the Lagoon Environmental Park)
Cove is by 4WD vehicles only through where you‘ll find a wide variety of birds
the Nuytsland Nature Reserve so you’ll including the Jabira, Brolga, and the
have to hire one or find someone to Nankeen Night-heron. Horseshoe Bay,
drive you – but it’s worth mentioning this and in fact the whole island, is an utterly
magical spot anyway. charming place. Magnetic Island is a
short ferry ride from Townsville (which
8. Cape Leveque, Dampier Peninsula, W.A. can only take vehicles up to 5m in
We’ve mentioned Broome but even length).
further north you’ll find equally stunning
beaches which are, for now, largely
remote although that’s beginning to
change. One of the best things about

74
10. Shelly Beach, Sydney, N.S.W. appreciate the stunning views looking
Manly Beach is one of Sydney’s most back at the Sydney Opera House and the
famous but Shelley Beach (just further Sydney Harbour Bridge. The beach itself
south) facing north (one of the few on is a protected marine reserve perfect
the east coast) and sheltered inside for lunching, snorkeling, swimming,
a cove, is a stunning place. Catch a scuba diving and sunbathing, and it
ferry across from Circular Quay in the really is stunning coming around the
morning – if it’s summer, take one of corner of the bay as the Opera House
the older ferries, which although are and Harbour Bridge with the backdrop
slower and take twice as long, you of Sydney skyline slowly unfolds before
can go on the deck and take longer to you.

The Ten Commandments of Surf Swimming:


1. Do Not swim at beaches not patrolled by lifeguards or lifesavers.

2. Do Not swim outside the red and yellow flags which mark the safe swimming
area.

3. Do Not swim directly after a meal or under the influence of alcohol.

4. Do Not swim when beach is closed. Observe the visual sign “Danger - Reserve
closed to bathing” and the red flag.

5. Do Not swim where there are no safety flags in position.

6. Do Not get excited if caught in a current or undertow, but raise one arm up and
float until help arrives.

7. Do Not struggle if seized with a cramp, but raise your arm for help, float and
keep the affected parts of your body perfectly still.

8. Do Not go out far when a yellow flag is flying, it means the surf is dangerous.

9. Do Not swim if unsure of surf conditions, but seek the advice of the lifeguard or
lifesaver.

10. Do Not struggle against a rip or current, but swim diagonally across it.

75
Speaking “Strine”
Australian language has a global reputation for is individuality, phonetics and humour value.
It has been brought about by the need for expressions for things that have never needed
expressing before, so improvisation was usually used. Add 200 years of abbreviating to that and
you are speaking Australian. Here are a few examples of the Australian language...

A bit strong: a hurtful remark or action Boogie board: half-sized surf board for
Arse over tit: fall over bodysurfing

Ankle biter: young child Blower: telephone

Ay? pardon? Bugger me dead! extreme shock at


something
Aggro: aggravated or aggressive
Bugger off! go away
Apple eater: someone who lives in the state
of Tasmania (apple growing state) Blotto: intoxicated

Arvo: afternoon Bog: the toilet

Barbie: barbecue cooking outdoors Chook: chicken

Banana bender: some who lives in the state Chinwag: a good chat
of Queensland Croweater: someone who lives in South
Bloke: Australian male, generally quite Australia where there are lots of crows
rugged Crikey: surprise at something
True blue: genuinely Australian Corroboree: Aboriginal festival dance
Having a blue: having a fight or argument Cossie: swimming costume (NSW)
Battler: works hard to earn a living Crack onto to: make a pass at/chat up
Breakky: first meal of the day Crook: ill/bad/criminal
You little beauty, that’s beaut: excited Dunny: toilet
approval Dinki-di: something originating from
Bloody oath: absolutely Downunder
Bottle-o: alcohol store Dobber: tattletale
Boomer: kangaroo Daggy: unfashionable
Billabong: a waterhole Didjeridoo: Aboriginal wind musical
Bathers: swimming costume instrument

Berko: angry in an unreasonable way Docket: a bill, receipt

Bunyip: mythical spirit creature from Dodgy: a bit suspect/not quite right/badly
outback made

76
Durry: cigarette Lolly: money OR candy
Dacks: trousers or shorts Long neck: large bottle of beer
Doona: like a quilt, used instead of blankets LPG cylinders: propane tanks
(containing feathers and down), duvet Mate: friend
Esky: large insulated box to keep food and Matilda: sleeping bag or bedroll for
drink cold camping out
Fibber: liar Milk bar: convenience store
Fairdinkum: someone really genuine/really/ Min Min: mysterious lights at night in the
the truth/good outback
Fair enough: OK, you are right Mexican: someone from the state of
Fossicking: hunting for gemstones (usually Victoria
opals or sapphires) Nulla-nulla: wooden club used by
Footy: “Aussie Rules” football Aborigines (made from very heavy and hard
Flake: shark meat, used in fish and chip wood called Blackbut)
shops Nong: idiot
Galah: loud, rudely behaved person Ocker: uncultured Aussie that likes beer,
Gas: Usually LPG, not petrol sport and women

G’day: a friendly welcome (same as hello or Oz: Australia


hi) Prang: automotive crash
Goon: cheap cask or boxed wine Pull your head in: mind your own business/
Good on ya mate! you are happy with their behave
words or actions Raw prawn: easy to deceive
Grey nomad: someone spending their Pearler: excellent thing
retirement travelling round Australia Paw-paw: Queensland tropical papaya fruit
Gumsucker: someone who lives in the state Push-bike: bicycle
of Victoria
Righto: OK
Hoo-roo: goodbye
Rellie: relative or family
Jackaroo or Jillaroo: trainee male or
A ripper: it’s really great
female Cattle Station hand
Rack off: go away, get lost
Jaffle: toasted sandwich
Rapt: overjoyed
Joker: a male person who you are unsure
about Ropable: angry

Kip: short rest or sleep or nap Sanger: Sandwich

Kiwi: a New Zealander Sandgroper: someone who lives in the


state of Western Australia

77
in australia, “thongs”
go on your feet.

Stone the crows! shock at something Tinnie: can of cold beer or a aluminum boat
Smoko: a break, usually something to eat Thongs: sandals made from rubber/flip
and drink, and/or have a cigarette flops
She’ll be right! everything will be OK True blue: really Australian
Strewth: shock at something Tea: evening meal
Sheila: a woman (not really used any more Tee up: organise or arrange something
other than by old timers) Too easy: that went well or I can do that, it
Snag: sausage (put a snag on the barbie)  will be easy
Spud: a potato Too right! something is absolutely right
Stubby: small bottle of beer OR a pair of Top-ender: someone who lives in the
men’s shorts Northern Territory
Scallops: fried potato cakes (Qld/N.S.W), Tallie: 750ml large bottle of beer
shellfish (elsewhere) Uni: university/college
Strine: a lot of Aussie slang said at Ute: utility/pickup truck
once/”Australian” said in an Aussie accent
Wag: skip school, truancy
Swag: canvas bag or cover you keep your
Woop woop: somewhere a long way from
belongings and bedroll in when camping
civilization
Strides: trousers
Hard yakka: hard work
Slab: pack of 24 cans of beer
A yarn: a story that may or may not be true
Servo: service/petrol station for cars
Have a yarn: have a conversation
Singlet: under shirt, vest or tank top
Yobbo: a redneck, a slob
Ta: thanks
Zed: Z, last letter of the alphabet
Tucker: food

78
Itinerary Ideas
Planning an itinerary obviously depends relax, without travelling or doing strenuous
on what style of traveler you are, and what activities. How much flexibility do you want
types of things you want to see. You might to give yourself? Do you want to plan a rigid
be a relaxed traveler who prefers to drive schedule or play it by ear some of the time?
at a relaxed pace, allowing yourself the
time to stop at whatever river or park takes Also make sure you consider interspersing
your fancy on the way, or you may want to rest or relaxation days after days that will
travel at a fairly swift pace. You might be be particularly strenuous, such as a day-
interested in scenery or hiking alone, or long hike. This is particularly important if
you may want a balance between nature, you are doing a long drive the next day. Also
cultural attractions, and seeing the main bear in mind whether you can do a one-way
centres. trip in your campervan and are able to drop
it off in a different city or town.
Think about what you’ll be doing day to day.
Do you want to be in a holiday park each Here are six sample itineraries of various
night, or just some nights? Do you want to types and lengths that include just a small
stop at a destination each day, spend a few fraction of things to see and do in Australia.
nights in each place, or spend a few days At the very least they’ll give you an idea of
just driving, absorbing the sights from your travel distances and times - mix and match
van? If you’re travelling with kids, consider and add them together to create your own
what family-friendly attractions exist in perfect plan - or feel free to do them in
each place. Be conscious of whether you’ll reverse!
want a day here and there to just rest and

Plan ahead to include


rest days after very
long drives.

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Sydney to Melbourne (N.S.W to Vic.) - 5 days
Day 1. Sydney to Jervis Bay. Approx 222 km (138 miles) 3 hours.

Day 2. Jervis Bay to Tilba Tilba. Approx 205 km (127 miles) 2.5 hours.

Day 3. Tilba Tilba to Gipsy Point. Approx 203 km (126 miles) 2.5 hours.

Day 4. Gipsy Point to Metung. Approx 225 km (140 miles) 2.75 hours.

Day 5. Metung to Melbourne. Approx 312 km (194 miles) 4 hours.

Tropical North (Qld) - 7 days


Day 1. Cairns to Atherton Tablelands. Approx 70 km (44 Miles) 1.5 hours.

Day 2. Spend the day in the Atherton Tablelands.

Day 3. Atherton Tablelands to Cape Tribulation. Approx 185 km (115 Miles) 3 hours.

Day 4. Spend the day at Cape Tribulation.

Day 5. Cape Tribulation to Port Douglas. Approx 83 km (52 Miles) 1.5 hours.

Day 6. Spend the day in Port Douglas.

Day 7. Port Douglas to Cairns. Approx 63 km (40 Miles) 1.5 hours.

Darwin to Uluru (N.T.) - 7 days


Day 1. Darwin to Kakadu. Approx 257 km (160 miles).

Day 2. Kakadu to Katherine. Approx 300 km (186 miles) 4 hours.

Day 3. Katherine to Tennant Creek. Approx 667 km (420 miles) 8 hours. Stop at the soothing
Mataranka Thermal Pool for a rest on the way.

Day 4. Tennant Creek to Alice Springs. Approx 506 km (314 miles) 6 hours.

Day 5. Spend the day in Alice Springs.

Day 6. Alice Springs to Ayers Rock. Approx 461 km (286 miles) 6.5 hours.

Day 7. Depart Ayers Rock.

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Sydney to Cairns (N.S.W to Qld) - 14 days
Day 1. Sydney to Hunter Valley. Approx 161km (100 miles) 2 hours.

Day 2. Hunter Valley to Port Stephens. Approx 65km (40 miles) 1.5 hours.

Day 3. Port Stephens to Coffs Harbour. Approx 168 km (105 miles) 2.5 hours.

Day 4. Coffs Harbour to Coolangatta. Approx 322km (200 miles) 4 hours.

Day 5. Spend the day in Coolangatta.

Day 6. Coolangatta to Brisbane. Approx 79km (49 miles) 1.5 hours.

Day 7. Brisbane to Fraser Island Approx 200km (125 miles) 3.5 hours drive then 35 minute
ferry ride.

Day 8. Spend the day at Fraser Island.

Day 9. Fraser Island to Rockhampton. Approx 318km (196 miles) 4 hours.

Day 10. Rockhampton to the Whitsundays. Approx 483km (300 miles) 6 hours.

Day 11. Relax at the Whitsundays.

Day 12. Relax at the Whitsundays.

Day 13. Townsville to Mission Beach. Approx 225km (140 miles) 2.75 hours.

Day 14. Mission Beach to Cairns. Approx 140km (87 miles) 1.75 hours.

Darwin to Broome (N.T to W.A) – 14 days


Day 1. Arrive Darwin. Overnight - Darwin.

Day 2. Spend the day in Darwin.

Day 3. Darwin to Kakadu. Approx 257 km (160 miles) 3.5 hours.

Day 4. Spend the day at Kakadu National Park.

Day 5. Kakadu to Katherine. Approx 300 km (186 miles) 4 hours.

Day 6. Katherine to Kununurra. Approx 510 km (316 miles) 6 hours.

Day 7. Spend the day in Kununurra.

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Day 8. Kununurra to El Questro. Approx 100 km (162 miles) 3.5 hours.

Day 9. Spend the day at El Questro.

Day 10. El Questro to Imintji Wilderness Camp. Approx 405 km (251 miles) 5 hours.

Day 11. Spend the day at Imintji Safari Camp and explore the Gibb River Road.

Day 12. Imintji Camp to Broome. Approx 440km (273 miles) 5.5 hours.

Day 13. Spend the day in Broome.

Day 14. Depart Broome.

Adelaide to Darwin (S.A. to N.T.) - 16 days


Day 1. Adelaide to Wilpena Pound. Approx 430 km (267 miles) 5.25 hours.

Day 2. Spend the day at Wilpena Pound and the Flinders Ranges.

Day 3. Wilpena Pound to Parachilna. Approx 141 km (88 miles) 1.75 hours.

Day 4. Parachilna to William Creek. Approx 387 km (240 miles) 4 hours.

Day 5. William Creek to Coober Pedy. Approx 166 km (103 miles) 2 hours.

Day 6. Coober Pedy. Enjoy a day at leisure exploring Coober Pedy.

Day 7. Coober Pedy to Uluru. Approx 734 km (456 miles) 8 hours.

Day 8. Spend the day at Uluru and the nearby Olgas (Kata Tjuta).

Day 9. Ayers Rock to Alice Springs. Approx 445 km (277 miles) 5.5 hours.

Day 10. Spend the day at Alice Springs.

Day 11. Alice Springs to Tennant Creek. Approx 510 km (317 miles) 5.5 hours.

Day 12. Tennant Creek to Katherine. Approx 672 km (417 miles) 7 hours.

Day 13. Katherine. Today enjoy a day at leisure to explore in and around Katherine.

Day 14. Katherine to Kakadu National Park. Approx 300 km (186 miles) 4 hours.

Day 15. Kakadu National Park. Today is free for you to explore Kakadu National Park.

Day 16. Kakadu National Park to Darwin. Approx 257 km (160 miles) 3.5 hours.

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Final Things to Think About
Most campervan hire companies in Australia are reputable and thorough. However, there
are some important things to double check:

• That you have a copy of, and completely • Whether certain things included, such
understand, your rental agreement, eg as wooden levelling blocks for uneven
your responsibilities and those of the sites, and extension cables and hoses
renter, as well as your liability to accommodate electrical, sewer and
water hook-ups
• That you have gone over and understand
ALL the costs involved • Whether everything is working properly,
eg doors, windows, appliances, controls,
• Whether they have a 24-hour number fixtures, and smoke alarms
you can call if you have any problems
• Whether the gas bottle has been filled by
• Whether there are manuals for all the the rental company or if it needs filling
electrical equipment and facilities first

• Whether you get a spare set of keys

Things You’ll Be Glad You Brought:


• Lots of Ziploc bags – for storing • Disposable camera (just in case!)
everything from bottles that might leak
to damp clothing • Small, collapsible umbrella

• Your address book for postcards • Notepad and several pens

• Travel size alarm clock • Books and games for night time

• Small flashlight with new batteries • Car phone charger

• Pocket knife

• Spare pair of cheap sunglasses

• One set of clothing that dries fast

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