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November/December 2019
The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource
Decoding
Clean Beauty
Safety and Toxicity:

Product Testing
Reactive Skin
and Personalized Care
Formulating
Clean Beauty
CT191112_Cover_fcx.indd 1 11/11/19 9:51 AM

Cover Story Contents | C&T
November/December 2019 |
Volume 134, number 10
®
6 Editor’s Note: Clean Beauty Means Trust
11 Industry Insight
Pushing Back Against the Noise of
Consumer Misinformation
with T. Caulfield
72 Ad Index
64
Formulating
64 Simple and Safe
Formulating ‘Clean Beauty’
by I. Palefsky
66 [video] Clean Beauty Under

15 Ingredients
Research
42 A Dermatological View:
Personalized Cosmetics
Has the Time Come?
18
by L.H.D. Do, H.I. Maibach, M.D.
Market Intelligence
12 Product Roundup: Clean Beauty Solutions
14 New Ingredients & Technologies
18 Clean Beauty Decoded

by J. Gleason-Allured and R.L. Grabenhofer
26 Defeating Dry Skin

New Developments for Adult and Neonatal Moisturization
42
by K. Steventon, Ph.D.
32 Expert Opinions on Clean Beauty
2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 10 | November/December 2019
CT191112_TOC_Masthead_fcx_DM.indd 2 11/11/19 10:07 AM

Bakuchiol (Sytenol® A) is the game-changing skin care hero
people can’t stop raving about.
Clinically proven– British J Dermatology, 180(2):289-296, 2019
International J Cosmetic Science, 36(3):221-230, 2014
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Editor’s
9 note | C&T ®
Contents | C&T ®
ER
WINN The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource
EDITORIAL
Editor in Chief Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
Senior Managing Editor Katie Anderson | 1-630-344-6077/kanderson@allured.com
Managing Editor Rachel L. Grabenhofer | 1-630-344-6072/rgrabenhofer@allured.com
ADVERTISING SALES
Business Development Manager Jolly Patel | 1-630-344-6061/jpatel@allured.com
Fragrance Sales Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
54
Advertising Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Marketing Specialist Bianca Esposito
Customer Service 1-847-559-7558/customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
DESIGN
Design Manager Kim Fry
Graphic Designer James Fergus
Regulatory
Production Manager Bryan Crowe
CORPORATE
34 Back to Basics IV Partner & CEO George Fox
Partner & President Janet Ludwig
Product Labeling, Manufacturing and Launch
Director of Events Maria Prior
by P. Yvon Digital Products Director Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero
Testing
46 Testing Tactics in Hair: A Soft Touch OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
Concepts in Hair Softness Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference
Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition
by T.A. Evans, Ph.D. Global Cosmetic Industry magazine
Beauty Accelerate
Perfumer & Flavorist magazine
54 Safety First Flavorcon
World Perfumery Congress
A Safety, Toxicity and Irritation Primer Skin Inc. magazine
Face & Body Midwest spa expo and conference
by V.K. Singh Face & Body Northern California spa expo and conference
Face & Body Southeast spa expo and conference
54 From the Vault

For Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/subscribe
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Cosmetics & Toiletries and C&T are registered trademarks of Allured Publishing Corporation.
CT191112_TOC_Masthead_fcx_DM.indd 4 11/11/19 10:07 AM

CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS
MATTE & SHINE
If the runways of the leading fashion designers are anything to go by, the trends in make-up and styling are
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Editor’s Note | C&T ®
Clean Beauty Means Trust
Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Managing Editor
rgrabenhofer@allured.com
The premier peer-reviewed

resource ensuring reliable
insights to meet cosmetic
consumer demands.
Scientific
Advisory Board
Eric Abrutyn
TPC2 Advisors Ltd.
What makes a “clean” beauty product different from other beauty products?
From a technical standpoint, the answer seems to be: not much. In fact, for this Jean-Christophe Choulot
Caudalíe
month’s feature on formulating clean beauty (see Page 64), Irwin Palefsky and I
had to brainstorm what clean beauty might mean in terms of formulating before Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.
Dermatology
he could write in tangible terms about it. We settled on three generally accepted Consulting Services
tenets: 1) ensuring safety—for the user and environment; 2) removing unnecessary
Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D.
ingredients; and 3) omitting ingredients that, for whatever reason, have been GlaxoSmithKline
blacklisted. Transparent labeling and eco-conscious packaging also play roles but
Trefor Evans, Ph.D.
these are separate from the actual formula properties. TA Evans LLC/TRI Princeton
This exercise with Palefsky made me wonder how different “clean product”
S. Peter Foltis
tenets really are from “standard” ones. Regarding the first point, companies have L’Oréal
long tested products for user safety. It’s a given and prerequisite to selling them.
Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D.
Safety for the environment is a more recent focus but with companies embracing Atlantic Coast Media Group
green, eco-friendly and sustainability initiatives, it has become an expectation of
John Jiménez
any product. Regarding point two, as many manufacturers would hopefully agree, Belcorp Colombia
it makes good business sense to remove unnecessary ingredients to reduce costs.
Karl Laden, Ph.D.
Although sustainability practices, in addition to the clean beauty movement, have Alpa Cosmetics
helped to emphasize minimalistic formulating.
Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D.
It’s this third tenet for removing blacklisted ingredients where clean beauty Allergan/Skinmedica
seems to stand out. Of course, from a scientific perspective, it’s illogical to remove
Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D.
an ingredient based on inconclusive data—especially when the available evidence Procter & Gamble
seems to support the contrary. However, the beauty business is driven by the
Marc Pissavini, Ph.D.
consumer, who is emotional. Add to this the fact that cosmetics are viewed more as Coty-Lancaster
wants than needs, and you’re selling an image or belief.
Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.
Consumers embrace the benevolent clean beauty concept, raising it up on a Industrial Consulting Research
pedestal as “mindfully created” and produced “without proven or suspected toxic
Sylvianne Schnebert, M.D.
ingredients.”1 It also is viewed as a “non-toxic product made without a long, ever- LVMH Recherche
evolving list of ingredients linked to harmful health effects.”2 Logically, you may
Ron Sharpe
think what manufacturer is going to mindlessly create a product with ingredients Amway
that are proven toxic? But remember, consumers are emotional, so it’s more about
Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D.
establishing their trust. Consultant
So in the end, regardless of the tangibles you deliver, what makes a clean beauty
David C. Steinberg
product different from any other is: the consumer. It’s worth bearing in mind as Steinberg & Associates
you peruse this, our “clean beauty,” issue. Enjoy!
Peter Tsolis
The Estée Lauder Companies
References Russel Walters, Ph.D.

Johnson & Johnson
1. https://cleanbeautybox.com/pages/
definition-of-clean-beauty Claudie Willemin
2. https://goop.com/beauty/personal-care/clean-beauty-and-why-its-important/ Independent Consultant
Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D.

Coty, Inc.
6 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
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Industry Insight | C&T ®
Pushing Back Against the Noise of

Consumer Misinformation
In his “spare” time, Timothy Caulfield makes a living
seeking out scientific fact and educating the public about
it. “I’m really interested in evidence-based approaches to
health care, beauty and wellness,” he told Cosmetics &
Toiletries (C&T). “That’s at the core of the work I’ve done
in an academic setting, in my books and on my show,”
he said. He’s referring to one of his books, Is Gwyneth
Paltrow Wrong About Everything?, and his hit Netflix
series, “A User’s Guide to Cheating Death.”
“I understand it’s hard to do good research and clini-
cals, but I’m really [most] interested in how science is
presented to the public, especially considering how much
social media has increased. I’m interested in [presenting
the science] at a higher level.” He explained, “We live in
the era of misinformation and untruths, and some of the
work I do falls into that broad umbrella—pushing back
against all the noise to provide consumers real informa-
tion, not misinformation.”
This will be the crux of the Frontiers of Science Award
presentation he will give at the SCC Annual Meeting and
Technology Showcase this December in NYC; C&T is
sponsoring it. It will be the first time Caulfield addresses
the cosmetics R&D industry. He appreciates the opportu-
nity, as cosmetics are a topic he’s tackled. “I’ve done a lot
of analysis around anti-aging,” he said, describing work
on unproven therapies in this context, and concepts in
beauty and aging.”
So why “preach to the choir” at an event where
product developers already know the science behind the
products? “I hope to energize people to become part of
the answer and get the community involved to push back
against the noise. There are things we can do and there’s
evidence as to what works. Tell the facts. Be engaged on
social media. Tell creative and engaging stories. Also,
teach critical thinking—it’s really important to teach
people how to evaluate what the media says about the rel-
evant science; i.e., looking at the study design. And finally,
a stronger, more robust regulatory response (I realize this
audience may not necessarily agree); I think, in the long
term, it builds trust.”
Influencing Belief
How does Caulfield know about the effects of misin-
formation and celebrity influence on public opinion?
Here he provides insights from researching his show
and book.
“The goal of the Netflix series is not necessarily to
debunk myths, but to try to get a sense of what people
believe and gain from alternative medicine and other
Vol. 134, No. 10 | November/December 2019 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 11
CT191112_Industry_Insight_fcx_DM.indd 11 11/11/19 11:59 AM

Industry Insight | C&T ®
crazy ‘scientific’ stuff—by this, I mean things ethanolamines, chemical sunscreens, synthetic
that don’t have strong evidence behind them. fragrance, BHT and BHA. We look at studies
I travel the world to get a sense of strange and decide what ingredients we can live with,
procedures, practices for detox and weight loss, and those we can’t.”
[claims for] cosmetics, high tech stem cells, Caulfield continued, not only is Paltrow not
vitamins and supplements, etc. The goal is to a blip but, “now she takes up more cultural
see what the science says, and what people are space than when I [initially] wrote [the book].
drawn to and interested in…What answers are She’s a great example of a celebrity using a
people seeking?” He added that one of his show brand to market misinformation.”
episodes explored mindfulness and spirituality
in Kyoto, Japan. Spreading Misinformation
Placing himself in this position, however, Caulfied added, “In the area of cosmetics, it’s
obviously means calling out would-be experts problematic in a number of areas:
who profess otherwise. Take his previously “1) The ‘science-free’ information [Paltrow]
mentioned book, for example, which brings him provides as if it were, in fact, science-based.
closer to the cosmetics circle. In it, he explores The message is that [the product] works and it
how celebrity actress Gwyneth Paltrow has mis- is based on a scientific approach to take care of
led public opinion over the content and safety your skin but there’s no evidence, and that’s a
of cosmetic products; in some ways, pioneering fundamental problem.
the ‘clean beauty’ movement but under some “2) She [also] pushes a lot of crazy ideas,
false pretenses. like detoxifying skin from ‘unnatural’ ingredi-
“Gwyneth is a great example. When I first ents you want to avoid, and she pushes ‘clean’
wrote the book, I thought she was a cultural products; but this erodes critical thinking and
blip; either she was crazy and really believed this is problematic.
what she was selling, or she knew better [and “3) Lastly, people like her are really pushing
was selling the concept].” He’s referring, of this idea of youth and an unrealistic goal about
course to her launch of the goop brand in 2008, beauty. What’s frustrating is, on one hand, she
positioned on the website as, “a new standard is empowering women but at the same, she
in beauty, one that we simply call ‘clean.’ [This] contradicts it with [goals for beauty].
means that we only sell non-toxic products “It’s interesting about Gwyneth,” said
that are made without ingredients linked to Caulfield. “She really pushes these broad
harmful health effects like hormone disruption, pseudo-scientific ideas of ‘chemical-free’ and
cancer and plain-old skin irritation. To name a ‘clean’—Jessica Alba similarly pushes the
few, we screen for parabens, phthalates, PEGs, same theme, that the world is full of toxins we
DM1 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 10 | November/December 2019

We’re starting to see more questioning and a push
toward more sensible and balanced approaches
to health and beauty. I’m more optimistic [than
before]...People are trying to get more involved
and take issues seriously. Take vaccination and the
spread of misinformation, for example; and dietary
and public health issues. Commentators are speak-
ing out more loudly against individuals and we’re
starting to see more action.
[Going back to Gwyneth], when I first wrote
the book, people didn’t know why I picked on her
like she was a punchline. Her company continues
to grow but there aren’t as many people defending
her or seeing her as a reasonably scientific voice.
Things are changing and becoming more science-
based just within the past 18 months or so. You’ve
also seen a real concrete response from regulators.
Not that everyone in this industry will agree with
need to avoid—but it is all so nebulous. ‘Who this, but it’s fantastic that we’re starting to get a
is regulating this and how do you tackle the response. I love the growing recognition of it.”
misinformation?’ is the Gestalt of her website.”
Facing Consumer Reality

So, how can the cosmetics industry face social Timothy Caulfield
influencers and take on the beliefs they perpetu- Professor of Law and Research, and
ate? What other industries can we learn from? Director of the Health Law Institute,
“One of the challenges [the cosmetic] industry University of Alberta; and Canada
has, more so than in health, pharma and thera- Research Chair in Health Law and Policy
peutics, is the implicit hype. … A lot of this stuff
is talked about in celebrity magazines and beauty
pages in newspapers where you’re not going to
get a critical analysis of the science; where it’s in
the context of celebrity athletes and sports pages.
In cosmetics, you get a dissemination of false
information.
“There are a lot of places we can look to [for
answers].The diet industry is pushed by pop cul-
ture, and so is alternative medicine—which are
really similar in their moves to detox the body,
avoid ‘chemicals’ and use ‘naturals.’ There’s been
a science-ploitation of concepts like stem cells
and precision medicine marketed with unproven
benefits—and the cosmetic industry takes this
up; we can learn from these and other broad,
regulated areas.” How? As Caulfield stated above,
by telling the facts, engaging in social media and
by encouraging critical thinking.
Wellness Pushes Back

Caulfield believes there’s good news, however. “I
think the trillion-dollar wellness industry is start-
ing to see a backlash. People are looking back,
being critical of pop culture, and pushing back.
Vol. 134, No. 10 | November/December 2019 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DM2

Product Roundup [Ingredients, Equipment & Services]
Clean Beauty Solutions

Et-VC SKINectura
Corum Inc. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
http://www.corum.com.tw/ https://www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com/en/products/product.
Et-VC (INCI: 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid), a multifunctional vitamin C php?id=131&from=name
derivative, acts as a stable and potent antioxidant agent that is ca- SKINectura (INCI:
pable of neutralizing free radicals and acting against inflammation Glycerin (and) Water
from air pollution, UV, blue light and ROS. This product is derived (aqua) (and) Anigo-
from corn and contains more than 50% natural ingredients. zanthos Flavidus Ex-
tract) is an innovative,
natural and organic
active ingredient
extracted from the
exquisite Australian
kangaroo paw flower with unique properties. The ingredient has a
multi-target mechanism that offers a 360° approach to anti-aging
by reducing the appearances of wrinkles in the eye and neck areas,
helping to age gracefully.
SymOcide PDO
InspiraSEA
Symrise
Contipro a.s.
https://www.symselect.com/promo/symocider-pdo-12861.html
www.contipro.com
SymOcide PDO (INCI:
InspiraSEA (INCI: Thalassospira
Phenoxyethanol (and)
Xiamenensis Lysate Extract) is a
Caprylyl Glycol (and) Decylene
biotechnologically derived, deep
Glycol) is a synergistic blend
sea bacteria ferment comple-
of phenoxyethanol and
menting Contipro’s portfolio of
1,2-alkanediols. The liquid
anti-aging raw materials. It works
blend allows one-step cold
as a natural protector of the basal
processing. This ingredient
lamina by inhibiting enzymes that cause its degradation. In addi-
is suitable for a wide range
tion, it has been shown to significantly increase skin elasticity and
of product applications, from
reduce wrinkles.
mass market to premium.
Sesame Oil Clean Beauty Ingredients

Arista Industries, Inc. Sytheon
http://aristaindustries.com www.sytheonltd.com
Sesame Oil (INCI: Clean beauty is not officially
Sesamum Indicum defined but Sytheon believes
(Sesame) Seed in related science, safety,
Oil) can be used sharing, sustainability and
for clean beauty performance tenets, all of
solutions and is which result in safe and effica-
suitable for use in cious beauty claims. Sytenol A
a variety of cos- (INCI: Bakuchiol), Synastol TC
metic and personal (INCI: Terminalia Chebula Fruit
care applications, Extract), HydraSynol DOI (INCI:
including face and body creams, and lotions, lip balms, shampoos, Isosorbide Dicaprylate) and Synoxyl AZ (INCI: Acetyl Zingerone) fit this
soaps and body oils. definition very well.
CT191112_Roundup_fcx.indd 12 11/5/19 1:39 PM

Inolixir
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
https://www.carecreations.basf.com/product-formu-
lations/product-highlights/product-highlights-detail/
Inolixir%e2%84%a2/30729279
Inolixir (INCI:
Glycerin (and)
Water (aqua)
(and) Inonotus
Obliquus (Mush-
room) Extract)
Epseama promotes health
Clariant Active Ingredients for tired and
http://www.clariant.com/epseama sensitive skin.
Derived from a “superfood of the sea,” Epseama (INCI: Laminaria The ingredient
Japonica Extract) is farmed off the coast of Geumil island in South fortifies the skin’s
Korea, ensuring environmentally friendly activity. Based on “ugly natural protection
food” sourcing, it targets a new epigenetic area called long non- system and reduces proinflammatory response with visible results
coding RNA nc886, which offers high anti-aging performance. on fine lines, dark circles and redness. The active is a 100% natural
extract from the chaga mushroom.
Zemea Propanediol Pelemol P3D

DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Phoenix Chemical Inc.
http://duponttateandlyle.com/ http://www.phoenix-chem.com
Zemea propanediol (INCI: Propanediol) Pelemol P3D (INCI: Dilinoleic Acid/Pro-
is a versatile, bio-based humectant panediol Copolymer) is 100% vegetable-
for cosmetic formulations. Studies derived polyester emollient that is slightly
have shown this ingredient can tacky, substantive and glossy, and has
boost the efficacy of preservatives no taste or odor. Its solubility in castor oil
and potentially reduce the amount of makes it ideal for lipsticks, lip balms and
them required in formulations. This lip glosses. Its insolubility in water and al-
ingredient is certified by the Natural cohol contributes to long wear properties
Products Association. in sunscreen products; it has a refractive
index of 1.486.
Rosaliss Biofunctional
Ashland
Pureact 138 ashland.com/rosaliss
Innospec Inc. The latest in haute couture
https://www.innospecinc. for skin, Rosaliss biofunc-
com/our-markets/ tional (INCI: Water (aqua)
performance-chemicals/ (and) Butylene Glycol (and)
personal-care Rosa Centifolia Flower
Pureact 138 is a natural, mild Extract) is a 100% natural
surfactant combination com- extract of Rosa centifo-
prised of decyl glucoside and lia flower derived using
sodium lauroyl lactylate. This optimized blend is easy to use, requires Ashland’s Plant Small RNA
no heat during mixing and provides exceptional foaming in finished Technology, a proprietary
formulations. Both components are derived from natural, readily green chemistry for superior
renewable resources. natural efficacy. It helps skin
to achieve flawless repair.
CT191112_Roundup_fcx.indd 13 11/5/19 1:40 PM

New Ingredients & Technologies
Naturein Wheat Peptides Bix’Activ ProRenew Complex CLR

Givaudan Active Beauty BASF Personal Care CLR Chemisches Laboratorium
https://www.givaudan.com/fragrances/ http://personalcare.basf.com/ Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
active-beauty Most topical oil control solutions are not suit- https://www.clr-berlin.com/
Naturein Wheat Peptides (INCI: Water (aqua) able for the unique lipid mix, sebum levels ProRenew Complex CLR (INCI: Lactococcus
(and) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) act as a nat- and shine produced by African skin. As such, Ferment Lysate) is a post-biotic ingredient
ural thickener obtained from 100% French Bix’Activ (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Bixa Orel- that accelerates epidermal renewal processes,
origin, locally sourced wheat and crafted by lana Seed Extract) was developed to restrict improving skin barrier function. Independent
green fractionation. The ingredient serves the overproduction of lipids in sebaceous studies also showed positive effects on skin
as an alternative to cationic guar and can glands typical of this skin type. hydration levels and a more stabilized skin
condition, smooth and detangle hair. surface pH.
BioCell Collagen 500 mg BergaBright SmartLipids

BioCell Technology, LLC Berg + Schmidt
https://www.biocelltechnology.com/ https://www.berg-schmidt.de/en/index.php
BioCell Collagen 500 mg, a collagen/ Black licorice root is rich in glabridin,
chondroitin sulfate/hyaluronic acid a natural active known for skin-whit-
supplement, was recently shown—in one ening properties. Berg + Schmidt
of the most substantial clinical studies discovered a way to protect and
on skin health supplements to date—to deliver it to improve topical efficacy:
reduce signs of aging within 12 weeks. via its BergaBright smart lipids.
Lipochroman Molecule
Lipotec
Organic Soy and Sunflower Lecithins https://www.lipotec.com/
Praan Naturals Inspired by natural vitamins, the Lipochroman molecule (INCI:
https://www.praannaturals.com/Default.asp Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol) was designed to confer triple
Organic soy lecithin liquid and powder, and organic sunflower lecithin liquid protection against reactive species. The ingredient provides
and powder (lecithin) were recently added to Praan Naturals’ ethically detoxification properties, improves the appearance of wrinkles
sourced natural product range. and reduces the melanin index, homogenizing skin tone.
CT191112_Tech_Launches_fcx.indd 14 11/4/19 10:57 AM

Regeneration
from the Deep
InspiraSEA is a brand new biotechnological deep sea
bacteria ferment.
Naturally protects basal lamina.
Inhibits enzymes which are causing

degradation of basal lamina.
Increases the number of dermal papillae

and reinforces the skin firmness.
InspiraSEA
BASAL
MEMBRANE +58%
SKIN
ELASTICITY
+39%
Top European quality of anti-aging ingredients

based on state of the art research.
www.contipro.com

New Ingredients & Technologies
Cellactive 3D Bioprinted Skin with Macrophages

Rahn AG BASF and CTIBiotech
https://www.rahn-group.com http://ctibiotech.com/
Cellactive (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Chlorella Vulgaris/Lupinus CTIBiotech and BASF recently developed a new skin substrate
Albus Protein Ferment (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium that incorporates macrophages. This will support the research
Sorbate) promotes the integrity of the integumentary system, and development of anti-inflammatory active ingredients.
boosting cellular cohesion in both skin and hair substrates.
Bio Blue Light Scanner CBD-based Oils and Butters

Bionos Biotech Extracts-Unlimited, LLC
http://bionos.es/ https://www.extracts-unlimited.com
The Bio Blue Light Scanner was designed to collect photo- To celebrate its third anniversary, Extracts-Unlimited has added
graphs of the skin’s surface in high resolution at a high speed a line of CBD-based oils and butters to its portfolio of natural
to substantiate claims for the skin whitening and/or anti-dark oils, butters and extracts for cosmetics and personal care. They
spot/under-eye circles efficacy of cosmetic treatments. are available in CBD concentrations ranging from 1-25%.
SpringMint Cywhite G and GP

Ichimaru Pharcos CODIF Technologie Naturelle
https://www.ichimaru.co.jp/english/ http://www.codif-tn.com
SpringMint (INCI: Butylene Glycol (and) Water (aqua) (and) Men- Cywhite G and GP (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and)
tha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract) works at the initial stages Cystoseira Tamariscifolia Extract—(and), in the case of GP,
of skin aging. Research indicates extracellular ATP is released Phenoxyethanol) targets melanosomes to brighten skin. These
from epidermal cells as the first signal of dermal thinning but “melanobreakers” leverage the survival instincts of the Cysto-
this ingredient is capable of suppressing its production. seira tamariscifolia algae to alter the diffusion of light and target
molecules involved in the absorption of melanosomes.
CT191112_Tech_Launches_fcx.indd 16 11/4/19 10:57 AM

See you in
October 2020
beautyaccelerate.com
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BA_2020_single_ad_101019.indd 2 10/29/19 2:28 PM

Market Intelligence | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• While the specifics may vary, most appear
to agree that key pillars of clean beauty
include: safety, sustainability, ethics
and transparency.
• How are current retailers supporting
these pillars? And how do they translate
technically from the label to the lab?
This report takes a closer look.
Clean Bea
Clean Beauty
DECODED
C
Jeb Gleason-Allured
Global Cosmetic Industry and
Cosmetics & Toiletries lean beauty is something everyone is talking
Rachel L. Grabenhofer about yet has no universal definition. While
Cosmetics & Toiletries the specifics may vary, most retailers, brands
Carol Stream, IL USA and even consumers appear to agree that key
pillars include: safety, sustainability, ethics
and transparency.
In attempt to decode this market phenomenon, let’s start with a quote:
“[O]ur mission is to get safer products into the hands of everyone …”1 The
woman who said this is Gregg Renfrew, CEO and founder of the brand
Reproduction in English or any other language of

18 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 134, No. 10 | November/December 2019
© 2019 Allured Business Media.
CT191112_Mrkt_Intl_Allured_fcx.indd 18 11/5/19 1:47 PM

The foods industry started it,
with the ‘clean label’ movement. Driven
by consumers, it meant omitting artificial
ingredients, minimizing additives and
ultimately shortening ingredient lists.
Beautycounter, which grew 27% gies, safe synthetics, consumer education and
between 2017-2018. In 2018, institutional technical know-how to find new
Beautycounter also was the most paths forward.
searched beauty brand online in
the U.S., generating $320 million Free From ‘Free-from’
eauty
in sales for the year, per NPD What’s not in a product has become the
numbers. That makes it not only focus of the beauty industry in recent years.
the largest digital-native brand, In 2018, Google search data showed3 the top
but also one of the top stand-alone ingredient searches relating to safety in beauty
brands in all of beauty. included: sulfate, aluminum, parabens, silicone
The brand even sent reps to and alcohol (often rendered in searches for
Capitol Hill in the U.S. last year to alcohol-free).
lobby Congress to act on prevent- It’s no surprise, then, that data from Nielsen
ing “harmful” ingredients from shows “free-from artificial fragrance” brand dol-
being used in beauty and personal lar sales rose 2% in 2018, compared with 0.1%
care. This activism represents a for the total personal care sector. These now
growing embrace of the precau- represent about 28.2% of the total market.
tionary principle, which resists the Meanwhile, retailer no-no lists provide a
introduction of ingredients, pro- strong tool of trust-building and differentia-
cesses and products with unknown tion4 for retailers of all sizes. SpaceNK, for
or disputed impacts. instance, states that clean beauty “refers to any
This is the world view held formulation that is free from a list of potentially
by many consumers and upstart harmful and irritating ingredients, and instead
brands, and it’s had an impact uses a combination of plants, vitamins, miner-
on Beautycounter’s manufactur- als and botanical extracts to help restore skin to
ing partners. Renfrew recently its optimum health and vitality.” The company
joked at a Cosmetic Executive adds, “Clean also refers to products and brands
Women’s event2 that her contract that showcase a concerted effort to manufac-
manufacturers had nicknamed ture more consciously, whether it be recycled
the brand Brutal Encounter; this is the new packaging or sustainable ingredients.”
setting in which so many in the beauty industry At the same time, the Clean at Sephora pro-
find themselves. gram5 features products “formulated without
The growing reality is consumers want SLS, SLES, parabens, formaldehyde, phthalates
brands and retailers to deliver products that and mineral oils.” Qualifying products feature
are thoughtfully designed to have the least a Clean at Sephora sticker. These designations
possible negative impact on human health, the also serve to make it easier for consumers
environment and society—as they, the shopper, to determine which choices are “best” in an
define it. This no doubt rightfully rankles plenty increasingly crowded marketplace filled with
of suppliers and chemists who are frustrated countless upstart indie brands.
by the nuances and technical realities that But not all free-from claims are embraced
are all too often lost in the conversation. But equally by consumers. For instance, Nielsen
there are ways to use emerging green technolo- data6 shows clean brands that eschew specific

Clean Beauty
no-no ingredients and key artificial ingredients and personal care consumers are concerned
grew by 4.2% in 2018, compared with brands that ingredients used in natural products are
that merely declared themselves artificial-free, not sustainable.
which grew by just 2.6% in 2018. Ethical and sustainability considerations
Another Nielsen report noted, “In our study have helped fuel the use of responsible syn-
… ‘free from’ claims didn’t stand out as much thetic options throughout the beauty industry.
to consumers as some of the specific ingredient For instance, Mintel found synthetic beeswax
mentions, but overarching ‘free from harsh appeared in 5% of global makeup launches in
chemicals’ and ‘non-toxic ingredients’ themes 2018,9 compared with 3% in 2014. Carmine
were very believable to achieve various skin launches dropped from 37% to 23% between
care benefits.” 2013 and 2018. Cruelty-free makeup brushes
Brands that operate in the EU have an with synthetic fibers are also on the rise.
added challenge: The latest update7 to the EU’s Conventional chemistry can continue to play
EC No. 655/2013 regulation now prohibits free- a role in improving the sourcing and sustain-
from claims as of July 1, 2019. The latest annex ability ethics of the beauty industry and score
prohibits the use of free-from claims for: points for sound science in the process.
• ingredients prohibited by the EU Cosmet-
ics Regulation (e.g., heavy metals);
Meet the Skintellectuals
• formulations that are merely in compli- The beauty industry may have an emerg-
ance with the law; ing ally in getting the word out about the
• ingredients that aren’t supposed to be benefits of cosmetic ingredients of all kinds.
present in the product; Skintellectuals are true beauty nerds.10 They are
• products that leverage an ingredient for hyper-knowledgeable about brands, products
specific attributes (e.g., preservation and ingredients and are probably least likely to
or fragrance) without claiming those utter the phrase “if I can’t pronounce the name,
attributes (e.g., an aromatic material I don’t want it in my products.”
not claimed as a fragrance), unless that The skintellectual is the answer to the
attribute is a side function of the general overwhelming anti-technological attitude
ingredient family; or found among a significant number of beauty
• ingredients/ingredient families that are consumers who prize natural above all else.
legally used. These consumers understand why ingredients
are included in products and can explain what,
There are limited instances where free-
exactly, they do. But they’re also demand-
from claims will be allowed, including
ing. They want formulas that work hard and
designations for vegan products (i.e., free-from
deliver clinic-standard results at-home. These
animal-derived products).
consumers can also be leveraged by marketers
and savvy social media teams to advocate for
The Case for Safe science-based conversations about products
Synthetics that focus on safety, efficacy and value.
The beauty industry, just like the foods
industry, has suffered from the false equiva- Go Blue or Go Home
lency of natural with safety. However, in the age Brands in the clean/sustainable space grew
of veganism and safe ingredients, conventional rapidly in 2018,11 including Tata Harper (38%),
materials have a role to play.8 Kopari (66%) and Coola (59%), according to
For instance, silicones are an inert, non- NPD data. Many brands have adopted green
reactive technology that boosts the sensory practices that focus on limiting harm to people
impact of products without skin irritation. and the planet while offering transparency
These materials also comply with the Clean at around ingredients and business practices. A
Sephora beauty standards. At the same time, subset of those brands have evolved further,
consumers have real concerns about sourcing pushing into what’s known as blue beauty,11
ethics when it comes to naturals, with palm oil which seeks to avoid harm while also address-
and coconut oil often in the spotlight. In fact, ing or undoing damage from the past.
according to Mintel, 74% of Spanish beauty This blue mindset takes the form not just

of zero waste, but also of generating negative
carbon footprints. Companies operating in
this space will leverage closed loop concepts,
as seen with some packaging pilot programs
under way with P&G, Unilever and others,12
in addition to upcycling concepts,13 reusable
technologies,14 truly recyclable materials15
that won’t ultimately end up in a landfill, and,
interestingly, focusing on boosting the eco-
nomic well-being of a wider swath of society.16
This is a radical idea, but given the wealth
gap in this country, brands that seek to close
the distance with programs that benefit local
communities at home and abroad might find
a receptive audience. This activity, paired with
transparency, has a payoff. According to NPD
data, 78% of consumers trust transparent
brands more than conventional companies,
while 73% are willing to pay more for prod-
ucts from transparent brands.17
Go Naked!
One way for brands to transition to the
blue economy is to formulate their way out
of packaging. Interestingly, clean beauty
formulas often require rigorous packaging
to minimize risk of harming formulas with
limited preservation systems, but other trends
are shaping behaviors as well.
In the age of e-commerce, packaging
will test clean beauty brands’ technical and
design resources to deliver products safely
without excess. Lush’s Naked range,18 for
example, represents the next phase of product
innovation: zero packaging. The formulation
comprises murumuru and cocoa butter, and Label to Lab: 4 Strategies
strawberry and orange puree. The Naked What might “clean beauty” mean from
product range includes solid shampoos and a technical standpoint? The foods industry
bath bombs as well. The brand has also started it, with the “clean label” movement.
opened its first packaging-free storefront in Driven by consumers, it meant omitting
the United Kingdom. artificial flavors and colors; minimizing
Meanwhile, HiBar has launched salon- additives that modify texture or taste; and
quality shampoo and conditioner bars created ultimately shortening ingredient lists to the
with no plastic or sulfates, eliminating essentials; especially those with natural and
the need for single-use plastic packaging, familiar-sounding names. Think: Breyers ice
according to the brand.19 The products are cream, which markets its use of “simple and
available in clarifying, moisturizing and pure ingredients,” and even calls out its natural
volumizing formulas that have been designed vanilla ice cream recipe of just five ingredi-
to stand up in the shower, shed moisture and ents: milk, cream, sugar, vegetable gum and
offer an ergonomic experience and ease of natural flavor.
application. That said, the product still has Similarly driven by consumers, clean beauty
secondary cardboard packaging; is seems the follows many of these same tenets: 1) removing
challenge continues. unnecessary ingredients; 2) focusing on user

Clean Beauty
the skintellectuals described previously, marketing

has impressed upon many consumers that “if you
can’t pronounce an ingredient, you likely don’t
want it in or on your body.” As such, naturals are
also generally familiar and more approachable to
consumers.
The bottom line for a simplified formula is:
strip it down to the basics.20 Each ingredient must
have a purpose in the formula. For more on this,
see Palefsky on Page 64.
2. Safety for the User and

Environment
User safety: A major driver behind clean
beauty, and subsequent demand for natural
ingredients, is the consumer’s genuine concern for
safe products. Users rightfully expect non-irritating
and non-toxic products; although a barrage of
readily available misleading and misinformation
has confused them about what exactly that means.
Research taken out of context, flawed or irrelevant
study designs, and even the industry itself, with its
free-from antics,21 have perpetuated the cycle, leav-
ing formulators with a limited number of options.
How often do formulators face a marketing
brief requiring ill-perceived ingredients to be
omitted? Do they formulate for consumer beliefs,
regardless of the science? Or do they advocate
for the proven safety and efficacy of those mis-
understood ingredients, including preservatives,
and environmental safety—which to some, silicones, etc.?
translates as natural ingredients; 3) thought- One camp in clean beauty strongly supports
fully designing products with the sustainability the former, and Sephora has taken the lead by
of the source and ethics of the supply chain in outlining for consumers what specific ingredients
mind; and 4) transparency in labeling. On top are “undesirable” by stamping its seal on products
of all this, product efficacy remains an expecta- whose labels pass the test. Specifically, the “Clean
tion. To formulators, this translates roughly at Sephora” approval goes to products that do not
into five areas of focus for products that fit the contain: SLS, SLES, parabens, formaldehydes,
“clean beauty” mindset; note that one or all of formaldehyde-releasing agents, phthalates,
the following may be employed. mineral oil, retinyl palmitate, oxybenzone, coal
tar, hydroquinone, triclosan and triclocarban. It’s
1. Simplified Formulas not quite clear what parameters were used to draw
“Simplified formulas” can mean a few up the list but the website explains, “We scoured
things. To consumers, it’s about shorter the scene, met with brand founders and experts,
ingredient lists on a product label. To formula- and asked you exactly what you’re looking for in
tors, it could mean leveraging multifunctional clean beauty.”
materials or formulating smarter, to utilize A completely different approach—if you can
ingredient synergies. This skill typically comes convince marketing—is to side with the science
with experience. and choose the best, safest and most effective
Simpler formulas can also mean going back ingredient for the job, then be transparent by
to basics—especially with natural or botani- disclosing it on the product label.
cal ingredients since these are perceived as Environmental safety: Clean beauty also
“untouched” and “pure.” With the exception of encompasses safety for the environment. This

means formulating
with ingredients that
are biodegradable,
safe to aquatic and other life forms,
and do not persist in the environment.
Greener chemistries22 are designed
to this end, and supplier companies
supporting this tenet will often perform
a cradle-to-grave ingredient analysis,
to understand a material’s outcome not
just during, but after it has been used
and released into the environment.
In relation, ingredients with ques-
tionable outcomes in the environment
should, preferably, be omitted under
clean beauty tenets and substituted
with alternatives; for example, cellulose
in place of PVP microbeads.23 In fact,
in some instances—regardless of the
science—the omission of questionable
ingredients is mandatory; take the
recent cases of Hawaii and the Florida
Keys and their bans on inorganic
sunscreens as an example.24
Inconclusive science based on
questionable study designs suggested
these materials were harming coral
reefs. And responding to consumer
alarm, regulators jumped to action to
ban these ingredients; but this raises
further issues. Considering these are perhaps the which even at trace levels, can be irritating
best sunscreens currently available in the United to some users. Another is to concentrate and
States to protect consumers from UV, it seems derive only the desired phytochemical con-
the health of the coral reefs took precedence over stituents from naturals, which can be achieved
consumer safety. through a technique known as zeta fraction-
Turning back to the question of clean beauty ing. Not only do these advanced techniques
in context of the environment, again, sustainable target specific entities in the plant, they also
sourcing must be ensured so as not to deplete concentrate them for higher efficacy; which,
the natural supply—being “green” simply isn’t as noted, is still an expectation even by clean
enough.25 In addition, the clean beauty consumer beauty consumers.
prefers pesticide-free, organic ingredient cultiva-
tion and processing so as to prevent introducing 3. Thoughtfully Designed
possible toxins or pollution into the environment. and Sourced
Naturals and botanicals: A noted, the Clean beauty also means giving consumers
consumer preference for naturals is heavily peace of mind and a clean conscience. This may
driven by their perceived inherent safety and refer to ingredients that are Fair Trade- and
purity. Whether or not this proves to be the case, Fair Trade for Life-certified, which ensures
there are ways to process natural ingredients and social progress for the farmers, workers and
products to bring this belief closer to reality. communities involved in cultivating the supply
One is through the use of techniques such as chain; i.e., supporting them, from an economi-
subcritical water26 or supercritical fluid extrac- cal as well as ethical standpoint.
tion, as these derive the desired natural extracts There are many questions to consider when
without the use of undesired synthetic solvents, choosing fair-traded and sustainable

Clean Beauty
ingredients: Does the ingredient supplier invest growth conditions for living microbes to output
in the supply chain community? Do the local specific metabolites for product applications.
farmers have health care? Do their children From a different perspective, waterless
have access to education? Are concessions made product formats and upcycled ingredients are
for Mother Nature, i.e., when it’s a bad year for additional options that align with responsible
crops? sourcing. With growing concerns over water
Furthermore, is the supply chain traceable? scarcity, waterless formulas allow consumers
When consumers purchase based on these ethics, to control their water use; they also reduce the
can the product be validated as such? Are mea- amount of weight being shipped cross-country,
surement tools27 in place? And are the products saving on fuel and reducing the product’s carbon
coming from the same, consistent source—with footprint. Lastly, upcycled ingredients such as
natural ingredients, the variability of growth spent coffee grounds and tomato, olive and citrus
conditions is an important factor influencing the waste can be used to derive cosmetic extracts.
phytochemicals present in the plant. These are the epitome of reusing and recycling,
Also, are the ingredients sourced and pro- which feeds into the greater circular economy.
cessed in consideration of the environment; i.e.,
how large is their carbon footprint? Could solar or 4. Label Transparency
wind power support their processing? Does sourc- Finally, regardless of the tactics you take
ing the natural ingredient align with biodiversity to create clean beauty products, it’s important
tenets? For example, the Nagoya Protocol,28 which to clearly communicate them on the label. As
protects the use of genetic materials, including stated, clean beauty products are still held to
plant DNA, so that resources are conserved and traditional efficacy expectations, so concessions
all may equally benefit from them. are sometimes necessary to ensure the sensory
In the same vein, are the natural ingredients appeal or efficacy of a formula. For example, a
sourced sustainably? For instance, to avoid natural and synthetic blend may be required to
depleting the native supply, advanced biotechnol- obtain the desired sensory profile. Disclosing
ogy techniques are used by many natural active this information on a label empowers consum-
suppliers to develop stem cell calluses, maintain ers to purchase based on truth, which closes the
them in culture and eventually derived standard- product cycle with their trust and belief in your
ized extracts for use.29 Another approach is to product—because you educated their eventual
employ fermentation processes, to manipulate purchasing decision.

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29. Dell’Acqua, G. (Accessed 2019, Oct 21). Plant cell technol-
15. Global Cosmetic Industry (Accessed 2019, Oct 21). Henkel
ogy. Available at: https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/
introduces 100% recycled plastic. Available at: https://www.
research/methodsprocesses/premium-Plant-Cell-Technol-
gcimagazine.com/business/marketers/announcements/
ogy-226471261.html
Henkel-Introduces-100-Recycled-Plastic-508762891.html

Market Intelligence | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Dry skin is a frequent complaint that touches
various consumer demographics.
• This roundup reviews recent findings on dry

skin, including its prevalence, treatment options,
related ingredients, infant care and more.
Defeating
Dry Skin New Developments for Adult
I
and Neonatal Moisturization
Katerina Steventon, Ph.D.

FaceWorkshops, LLC
t has been 15 years since Rawlings published the first research paper on stratum
East Yorkshire, England
corneum moisturization at the molecular level, elucidating the structure and
function of the stratum corneum. The paper reviewed the then-understanding of
the stratum corneum biology; focusing on the protective function of skin against
desiccation and environmental challenge by regulating water flux and retention.
It postulated three factors that maintain homeostasis of hydration:

CT1909_Mrkt_Steventon_fcx.indd 26 11/6/19 10:26 AM

Xerosis is a
significant predictor
of skin diseases
such as atopic
eczema, psoriasis
and seborrhoeic
dermatitis.
1. Intercellular lamellar lipids, organized

predominantly in an orthorhombic gel phase,
provide an effective barrier to the passage of
water through the tissue.
2. The diffusion path length also retards
water loss, since water must traverse the
tortuous path created by the SC layers and
corneocyte envelopes.
3. The natural moisturizing factor (NMF); a
complex mixture of low molecular weight,
water-soluble compounds, first formed
within the corneocytes by degradation of the
protein filaggrin.
The paper described how each maturation step

that leads to the formation of an effective moisture
barrier (including corneocyte strengthening, lipid
processing and NMF generation), is influenced by
the level of stratum corneum hydration. Rawlings
stated that these processes, as well as the final step
of corneodesmolysis that mediates exfoliation, are
often disturbed in response to environmental chal-
lenges, resulting in dry, flaky skin conditions.1
Research has since built upon—and pro-
gressed significantly from—the principles
Rawlings proposed. However, dry skin remains a
frequent complaint.
Adult Xerosis:
Prevalence and Treatment
Dry skin is a multifaceted condition
that may be associated with skin irritation,
itch and discomfort, which can eventually
manifest as skin disease.2 As an example of its
prevalence, 29.4% of more than 48,000 Ger-
man adults were found to have xerotic skin after

Defeating Dry Skin
a whole-body assessment. Older age, but not oral consumption of anthocyanins and prebiot-
gender, was associated with dry skin. ics has shown protective effects on gut health,
Xerosis is also a significant predictor for with skin status evaluated as a secondary indi-
atopic eczema, psoriasis and seborrhoeic cation. A group of 42 people with complaints
dermatitis, demonstrating that dry skin of mild to moderate GI discomfort ingested the
requires attention prior to deterio- active ingredients for 10 weeks. Skin status was
rating into skin disease. There are evaluated by a questionnaire at the baseline and
many approaches to improving after one, five and 10 weeks of consumption.
skin hydration, including hydrat- General skin condition improved, and self-eval-
ing ingredients and formulations uation revealed that skin attributes including
designed for effective delivery. These dry skin, skin sensitivity and broken capillaries
may include nanocarriers or improved after 10 weeks of consumption, as
skin regeneration technolo- well as an accompanying improvement in the
gies using cells that have alleviation of gut symptoms.4
shown great promise for
skin moisturization.3 Neonatal Skin Care
The inside-out When it comes to dry skin in infants, natural
approach is an alterna- oils are advocated and used throughout the
tive. Research into world as part of neonatal skin care. Topical
plant oils are used due to the perceived lower
risk of natural products, and the fear of
potential adverse effects of topical steroids. In
children, the use of topical olive, coconut and
sunflower seed oil is frequent.
About a decade ago, Cork highlighted
evidence suggesting that olive oil may exacer-
bate atopic dermatitis (and xerosis is a part of
the clinical picture). More research is needed to
make definitive recommendations regarding the

use of coconut and sunflower seed oil.5
A study in people with and without a
history of atopic dermatitis who either
applied: six drops of olive oil to one
forearm twice daily for five weeks; or six
drops of olive oil to one forearm and six
drops of sunflower seed oil to the other,
twice daily for four weeks, was reported.
Topical application of olive oil for four
weeks caused a significant reduction in
stratum corneum integrity and induced
mild erythema in volunteers with and
without a history of atopic dermatitis.
Sunflower seed oil preserved stratum
corneum integrity with no erythema and
improved hydration.
In contrast to sunflower seed oil,
olive oil significantly damaged the skin
barrier, and therefore has the potential
to promote the development of, and
exacerbate existing, atopic dermatitis.
The use of olive oil for the treatment
of dry skin and infant massage should

Defeating Dry Skin
therefore be discouraged. These findings challenge the unfounded belief

that all natural oils are beneficial for the skin and highlight the need for
further research.6
Further evidence comes from a pilot, randomized controlled trial
investigating the impact of different topical oils on neonatal skin in
healthy, full-term babies. Babies were randomly assigned to treatment by
olive oil, sunflower oil or no oil, twice daily for four weeks, stratified by
family history of atopic eczema. Measurement of lipid lamellae profiles,
transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration and pH
as well as clinical observations were recorded at baseline and four weeks
post-birth. Mothers adhered to the protocol and while both oil treat-
ments significantly improved hydration, there was less improvement in
lipid lamellae structure compared with the no-oil group. The study again
confirms that caution should be observed when recommending plant oils
for neonatal skin.7
Adherence to Moisturization
However, interventions are only effective if carried out on a regular
basis. Seasonal, dry winter skin is an issue for many people and mois-
turization resolves the symptoms. In a Chinese study, 72 patients with
a diagnosis of dry winter skin were instructed to apply moisturizing
products as part of their four-month treatment plan. However, two weeks
after the dermatologist’s recommendation, patient adherence to moistur-
izers was low; they required more guidance in their dry skin treatment.8
Medication nonadherence is known to limit the effectiveness of available
therapies. However, medicinal self-management can feel onerous to those
with dermatological conditions. In psoriasis, factors that may undermine
adherence were studied and non-adherence to medication was viewed as
an outcome of limited personal coping resources.9
Clearly, adherence is key to a successful outcome, and the findings of
the psoriasis study are likely to be applicable to xerosis sufferers; further
research is indicated. This is valid in both neonatal and adult skin care.
References
1. Rawlings, A. V., and Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatol
Ther, 17 Suppl 1, 43-48.
2. Augustin, M., et al. (2019). Prevalence, predictors and comorbidity of dry skin in the general
population. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol, 33(1), 147-150.
3. Kim, H., Kim, J. T., Barua, S., Yoo, S. Y., Hong, S. C., Lee, K. B., and Lee, J. (2019). Seeking
better topical delivery technologies of moisturizing agents for enhanced skin moisturization.
Expert Opin Drug Deliv, 15(1), 17-31.
4. Lu, J., Li, J., Ren, Y., Stevenson, D., and Bartlett, M. (2019). A Prebiotic/Anthocyanin Blend
Improved Gastrointestinal Health and Impacted Skin Status in Humans (P20-016-19). Curr Dev
Nutr, 3 Suppl 1.
5. Karagounis, T. K., Gittler, J. K., Rotemberg, V., and Morel, K. D. (2019). Use of “natural” oils for
moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oil. Pediatr Dermatol, 36(1), 9-5.
6. Danby, S. G., AlEnezi, T., Sultan, A., Lavender, T., Chittock J., Brown, K., and Cork, M. J. (2013).
Effect of olive and sunflower seed oil on the adult skin barrier: implications for neonatal care.
Pediatr Dermatol, 30(1), 42-50.
7. Cooke, A., Cork, M. J., Victor, S., Campbell, M., Danby, S., CHittock, J., and Lavender, T.
(2016). Olive Oil, Sunflower Oil or no Oil for Baby Dry Skin or Massage: A Pilot, Assessor-
blinded, Randomized Controlled Trial (the Oil in Baby SkincaRE [OBSeRvE] Study). Acta Derm
Venereol, 96(3), 323-30.
8. Zhang, X., Zeng, W., Liu, H., Xie S., and Liang, Y. (2019). Adherence to Moisturizing Subjects in
Patient with Dry Skin in the Winter. J Cosmet Sci, 70(2), 107-109.
9. Thorneloe, R. J., Bundy, C., Griffiths, C. E., Ashcroft, D. M., and Cordingley, L. (2017). Non-
adherence to psoriasis medication as an outcome of limited coping resources and conflicting
goals: findings from a qualitative interview study with people with psoriasis. Br J Dermatol,
176(3), 667-676.

N O W A V A I L A B L E AT
OUR
BEST
SELLERS
FROM
1.99£*
All our products 80% of our products

are cruelty free are vegan
* RRP
C AT R I C E . E U

EXPERT ,
OPINIONS
Clean Beauty
Label Transparency,* Performance, Safety,
Greener Chemistries, Pickering Emulsions & More
Contributors
JARED POWELL, FRONTIER LABEL
REBECCA BLAHOSKY, BOTANIC INNOVATIONS
CHRISTINA DEAN, BRENNTAG SPECIALTIES *Adapted with permission from Global Cosmetic Industry, February 2019.
KIRA DRABBLE, CRODA

Label Transparency*
EDITH FILAIRE, GREENTECH Approximately 94% of customers are more likely to opt for a
CINDY YU, INGREDION brand they feel is genuinely transparent. As a result, it is no surprise
that brands across industries are becoming more transparent with
ALBERT BABIK, JEEN INTERNATIONAL
their prospective customers.
ELENA CAÑADAS, LUBRIZOL Some companies approach this by interacting directly on social
media, or by using apologetic language in company announcements
ISABELLE LACASSE, IFF/LUCAS MEYER
and tweets that make them seem more open, and easy to reach.
IRINA CHURIKOVA, PINEAQUA LTD. Something that gets overlooked, however, is the importance of the
TONY ABBOUD, RENMATIX
product label.
A label can be a consumer’s first interaction with a new brand,
PASCALINE CRITON, SEDERMA so it sets the tone of the entire experience—and first impressions
JOHN TONER, APRINNOVA are lasting impressions. Brands should leverage labels by carefully
considering elements such as imagery, typography and strategic
KYLE HUSTON, GENOMATICA
language to attract these transparency-seeking shoppers.
CHARLES GRANATELL AND JOHN GORMLEY,
GRANT INDUSTRIES
CT191112_Mrkt_Expert_Opinions_fcx_DM.indd 32 11/11/19 10:45 AM

Brands focused on doing more with less,
being clean and using ‘trusted’ ingredients
conjure this ethos using minimalistic language
to convey the values of the company.
Minimalist imagery evokes transparency: Impact font? If so, the organic messaging may
One trend that has resonated with consumers get lost or be perceived as fraudulent because the
is clean and simple graphic design imagery. For visuals are not consistent. Instead, perhaps opt for
instance, in an internal trends report, Frontier fonts that are curved but simple, like Arial in the
analyzed four months of label designs from more sans-serif family. These won’t seem as buttoned-up
than 1,200 companies in the craft beer, wine, food, as Times New Roman, but also won’t fall into the
health and beauty industries, noting “simple and untrusted “trap” a Chalkboard font may evoke.
clean label designs will appear most frequently on Typography can also draw a distinct line to the
health and beauty products due to an increased product itself; Waxing Kara provides an example.
focus on transparent and natural branding.” One Its Sweet Lips range3 of natural and USDA organic
example is The Good Hippie,1 which uses a simple lip balm uses simple, clean lines with few frills,
square with light water coloring for labels on its mimicking what the product is—simple.
glass products. Language matters: Last but not least is lan-
Simplistic images can speak louder and tell guage. After solidifying imagery and typography,
more of a story than a busy and overly complex it is important to make sure written aspects are
image. Think of outlines such as trees, hearts or consistent and in line with company and brand
leaves, and simple shapes like rings or triangular values. Take RedbudSuds, for example;4 the bath
shapes. Often, ideals are associated with specific and body brand is focused on doing more with
images. For example, a leaf on a foundation label less, being clean, using “trusted” ingredients and
may confer to consumers that the product is benefiting the planet. To conjure this ethos in a
organic without the need for wording. Identify- minimalistic way, the brand incorporates the lan-
ing trends like this and incorporating them into guage: “A thoughtfully clean shower bar” directly on
imagery is a quick way to show a brand’s values the packaging. This messaging works well because,
while appealing to consumer needs. from first glance, a shopper knows the values of the
Simple and brand-consistent typography: company without much jargon that could conflate
Typeface itself, another important element to the message.
visual collateral, can actually evoke specific emo- Listing out an entire mission statement on a
tions in a viewer, as shown by Mikael Cho’s 2017 bottle or box is not recommended. Instead, make
analysis on the science of fonts and how they make what goes into the product known and ensure the
users feel.2 To illustrate, according to the report, customer is fully aware of what he/she is buying.
Helvetica is often correlated with the government For example, if your lipstick is vegan friendly,
and tax forms, while thicker fonts such as Impact
are seen as untrustworthy. This is important to
note, since typography goes beyond utilizing what C&T Daily Newsletter
is aesthetically attractive and can serve a further
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marketing purpose.
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Consider the message being sent through
combined typography and imagery. Is there an http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
“organic-indicating” leaf juxtaposed with a large
CT191112_Mrkt_Expert_Opinions_fcx_DM.indd 33 11/11/19 10:45 AM

Expert Opinions: Clean Beauty
Botanical
Revolution?
The primary drivers
for clean beauty interest
are safety, wellness and
environmental impact.
Natural, sustainable,
and responsible ingre-
dients and packaging
are driving the clean
beauty movement.
The direction should
be purpose and simplic-
ity. Use of clean, safe, and
natural ingredients will
support product perfor-
mance and benefit—not
simply marketing claims
or consumer trend.
Innovation should drive
simple, clean formulas to
minimize waste and use
of unnecessary ingredi-
ents and packaging.
include that information. Similarly, if your Will it be a botanical revolution? For
concealer is all-natural, speak to that fact. example, formulators optimizing centuries-old,
Much work goes into creating a success- plant-based ingredients from global ancient cul-
ful cosmetics line, yet marketing that line tures to deliver natural innovation with modern
to increasingly aware consumers may prove efficacy? Beauty has adopted natural ingredi-
difficult. While some companies focus on big ents from many past regional cultures. Nigella
messaging and campaigns, they can often meet sativa (black cumin) seed oil, from the Middle
a consumer’s needs by the labeling right on the East, and Chinese herbs as just two examples.
product they are selling. The key to a beautiful Hopefully modern agronomy can scale these
product that communicates openness demands ingredients to deliver clean, functional and
a label mélange of simple imagery, clean typog- natural options—similar to the revolution we’re
raphy and transparent language. seeing in the plant-based food space.
Jared Powell, Principal —Rebecca Blahosky
Frontier Label VP of Sales and Marketing
Botanic Innovations
References
1. The Good Hippie website (Accessed 2019, Oct 22). Avail-
able at: www.thegoodhippie.com
Performance is Key
2. Cho, M. (Accessed 2019, Oct 22). The science behind fonts
(and how they make you feel). Available at: https://thenext- Consumers are becoming increasingly sav-
web.com/dd/2017/03/31/science-behind-fonts-make-feel/ vier about the ingredients in the personal care
3. Waxing Kara website (Accessed 2019, Oct 22). Lip balm products they put on their bodies. As a result,
tints trios. Available at: https://waxingkara.com/product-tag/
they are looking for brands that offer both safe
lip-balm-tints-trios/
and sustainable products that do not compro-
4. Red Bud Suds website (Accessed 2019, Oct 22). Available
at: https://www.redbudsuds.com/ mise on efficacy or aesthetics. Concern over the
environmental impact of plastic is also driving
many consumers to choose brands that offer
sustainable and recyclable packaging.
CT191112_Mrkt_Expert_Opinions_fcx_DM.indd 34 11/11/19 12:06 PM

To meet the needs of more conscientious commonly used ingredients that are manufac-
consumers, many companies are working on tured sustainably from renewable resources will
formulas that only contain ingredients they help the continued growth of the clean beauty
consider to be non-toxic or safe, and some are market. By increasing the number of clean
creating products that are marketed as free-from ingredient options, both prestige and mass
ingredients with bad reputations. market brands can continue to innovate and
Major retailers contribute to the definition expand their product offerings.
of clean beauty by creating their own ingredi-
—Christina Dean, Applications Director
ents policies and lists of ingredients to avoid, in
Brenntag Specialties
order for products to be marketed as clean in
their stores.
The untapped potential of the clean beauty
Consumer Education and
market is in the creation of clean products Color Cosmetics
that equally or outperform their “non-clean” The debate between chemical and mineral
counterparts in terms of efficacy, aesthetics sunscreens has continued to dominate 2019 as
and cost. With indie beauty companies leading we see a continued amount of environmental
the charge, many clean beauty products are impact studies emerge resulting in chemical
unaffordable to some consumers. This creates sunscreens falling out of favor with consumers
an opportunity for mass market brands to add and brands alike.
clean options to their product portfolio and The rise of Vegan and Halal claims on
make these types of products more accessible. cosmetics has been largely due to the consumer
The creation of cost-effective alternatives to demand for more “natural” products and the

lack of any globally accepted/adopted industry Sustainable, Green and

standard for measuring this. These claims
are often used to gauge if a product has been
Social Progress
developed in a more ethical and responsible There is a new era of clean beauty—one that
way, as they bring a degree of transparency in promises “no nasties” and a “chemical-free,”
terms of the rigorous checks at the ingredient “nontoxic” skin care regime. It is one that
manufacturing level. However, there is widely attempts to divide beauty products into good
a lack of clarity and education around these and bad, clean and dirty, toxic and nontoxic.
claims, as their link to “natural” and “clean” is Clean beauty is becoming viral and more
not always clear for everyone. than “natural,” it goes further by defining an
There is more needed in terms of consumer ethical, sustainable, fair and responsible cos-
education around ingredients and ingredient metic. Many such concepts are associated with
safety within cosmetic products. It’s more clean beauty, such as vegan products, slow- and
important than ever for the industry to work zero-waste cosmetics, “farm-to-face” products,
together on this, from ingredient suppliers the valuation of by-products, etc.
to brands of all sizes. A great recent example Consumers are looking to consume less but
of this was L’Oréal launching its “Inside Our better. They want to integrate their purchasing
Products” website, which aims to educate on act into a responsible movement.
the ingredients used in the company’s products, One major trend and part of clean beauty’s
but also tries to remove the negative stigma future is sustainable sourcing. Fair and respon-
around personal care ingredients that may have sible supply chains based on transparency are
previously come under scrutiny and faced nega- key to the success of clean beauty, and these
tive press, regardless of their known safety. are achieved by maintaining close relation-
Secondly, the color cosmetic market is an area ships with suppliers in a vision for real social
with growth potential, as it’s not always easy to progress, locally. This also allows an optimal
formulate highly efficacious makeup products traceability of raw materials, which is essential
whilst utilizing natural ingredients. This also to meet consumer demand in the field of cos-
provides scope for ingredient manufacturers to metics. In this regard, Fair Trade remains one
innovate more “natural,” bio-based alternatives aspect to be further developed; implementing
to help with growing unmet needs. social actions locally to help producer com-
Our Crodabond CSA (INCI: Hydrogenated munities is necessary to bring clean beauty to
Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer) is a 100% another, even more responsible level.
naturally derived ingredient to provide long Green technologies are on the front line.
wear claims in color cosmetics. Furthermore, Cryo-extraction, for example, preserves all the
our Moonshine effect pigments are 100% natural components of the fresh plant, includ-
mineral-derived and borosilicate-based; within ing the most fragile ones. Another trendy green
this line, our astral series has the thinnest process is fermentation. This is based on safe
borosilicate substrate on the market. microorganisms (non-GMOs) that are able to
transform and potentiate plant material.
Kira Drabblle Producing raw materials through these
Marketing Associate green processes has now become mandatory in
Croda order to fit into the clean beauty movement.
Edith Filaire
Scientific Director
GREENTECH

New Seals and As consumers become more educated on
product labeling, there will be more limitations
Greener Chemistries for manufacturers/formulators and a bigger
The growth of clean label and consumer push for transparency. This will open up more
demand for transparency in the food and bever- opportunities for plant-based ingredients as
age industry is shaping the latest clean beauty well as food ingredients to be used in beauty
trend, which is pushing for more recognizable and personal care products.
ingredients in beauty products. The concept To address the need for clean beauty ingre-
of clean living is also driving this convergence dients, Ingredion offers Farmal and Nativacare
of food and beauty trends. One example of the natural polymers and natural gums—such as
adoption of a food trend in beauty is the rise clear xanthan gum, konjac, pectin, carrageenan,
of free-from, products where the avoidance of and many others—to help formulators elevate
specific ingredients is helping to shape consumer their products with our range of texturizers and
mindset on what a more preferred product is. sensory enhancers. One example is the Farmal
To help food manufacturers, Ingredion MS 6135 (INCI: Calcium Starch Octenylsuc-
defined clean and simple based on proprietary cinate) multifunctional polymer, which can help
consumer research focused on this idea of mitigate greasiness in sunscreen formulations
replacing and/or eliminating ingredients that while maintaining a cleaner label.
are perceived as undesirable. The same con-
sumer mindset is being applied to personal Cindy Yu, Product Development Marketing
care products. Global Beauty and Home
As more traditional synthetic ingredients Ingredion Inc.
are replaced by natural solutions with proven
multifunctional benefits, we may see more clean
beauty-type claims. We already see some retailers
and brands launching their own seals for clean
beauty. This is something that may increase as
the clean beauty philosophy matures.
In addition, advances in green chemistry will
allow more natural ingredients to deliver similar
or better performance than traditional synthetics,
which is a shift from past expectations.

Consumer Traction and

Global Compliance
Like the personal care industry itself, this
answer is layered and nuanced. Consumer
demand is for cleaner, sustainable, greener
products that are purer and naturally derived.
Consumer demand and desire is being shaped
by emerging boutique brands, social media,
product influencers, and many specialized
retailers that are catering to this need. The need
for clean, pure, naturally derived and sustain-
ably-sourced ingredients is quickly becoming
a prerequisite. Finished goods companies are
under pressure to adapt to consumer needs, have evolved from just one or two lists five
and raw material ingredient suppliers are chal- years ago to dozens of lists today is a sure sign
lenged to deliver aesthetics and performance that there is consumer traction and that it will
from greener renewables. become the norm.
Both internet-based retailers and traditional The industry as a whole is trying to adapt
retailers already have well-developed programs and respond, along with a few major stan-
endorsing or stamping recommended products. dardization agencies that will come to play a
These products go through a rigorous review role. The need for globally approved formula-
of the ingredients used, their sustainability and tions and global compliance will also have an
origin, along with the type of packaging used. impact on the success of finished goods and
Virtually every major market channel is specific ingredients.
developing a list of “goodies” and a list of “bad- Both functional and traditional ingredients
dies” and criteria for endorsement of a product. that are effective, safe, naturally derived and
This will force the transparency of all ingredi- that are sustainably sourced will be selected by
ents over time. The fact that these programs formulators to respond to the need.
Ingredient suppliers like Jeen International
are challenged to evolve and produce new
products or modify existing ones into safer
alternatives that do not cause environmental
harm and that simultaneously elevate the
performance of finished goods. New ingredients
like Jeechem NDA (INCI: Tetradecane) or our
OleoSil products are all-natural or up to 90%
natural, and are packed with solutions to help
the formulator achieve the expanded need.
Albert Babik, General Manager

Jeen International

Simple, Scientific want science with a conscience; they’re not
willing to trade efficacy for sustainability.
and Effective As an aside, the minimalism trend will
Clean beauty speaks to the health of body, continue. We also will see innovations in solid
mind and planet. It’s the fusion of two mac- and low-viscosity formats.
rotrends: the global sustainability movement Lubrizol has strengthened its naturally
and the heightened awareness and focus on derived portfolio with botanical extracts,
health and wellness, shining light on the safety biotechnology and subcritical water technology.
and efficacy of what consumers are putting Fermentation also holds great promise. For
into and onto their bodies. Sustainability example, our Uniclay product is a fermented
has become the minimum requirement for extract from a microorganism isolated from
beauty brands. a clay and it mimics the effect of clays on the
Consumers are embracing minimalism, skin. Furthermore, green chemistry allows us
believing “less is more” and that using beauty to create sustainable ingredients from synthetic
products containing only essential ingredients origins, which has enormous ramifications for
will result in less waste and make the product clean beauty.
safer to use. Fewer ingredients makes it easier
for consumers to understand the role of each Elena Cañadas
one. Ingredient transparency initiatives have Global Marketing Director, Beauty
brands communicating the function of each Lubrizol
ingredient to consumers.
Consumers have higher expectations of com-
bining efficacy with environmentally friendly
claims. We’ve learned that, over all categories,
efficacy is still the #1 priority. But as ingredients
and companies become more sophisticated, the
performance of sustainable products will be
able to deliver against efficacy expectations and
compete with traditional offerings. Consumers

Agriculture, Blockchain and

Pickering Emulsions
Unfortunately, today there is no standard-
ized definition of clean beauty in science or
in the marketplace. A standardized definition
might happen soon enough but ultimately, what
consumers want is transparency...and this will
shape the market. The clean beauty movement is
coming from consumers seeking greater health
benefits, transparency and sustainability from
their beauty products—exactly how it happens in
the foods industry.
In the future, clean beauty products will
become increasingly associated with health and
wellness. Consumer desire for transparency is
inspiring models for delivering high-quality cos-
metic products with minimalist formulas, as well
as a higher quantity of natural and renewable
ingredients and packaging. This might lead to
more vertical integration or closer partnerships
with farmers—beauty brands may look deeper
into agriculture to better control the sourcing
of natural ingredients and therefore guarantee,
“from farm to jar.”
Blockchain technology will undeniably be
part of an increase and better transparency in the
beauty industry. Brands will also eventually move
away from traditional ways of formulating. At
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, we believe that Picker-
ing emulsion systems will simplify formulas.
These are stabilized by solid particles, rather
than surfactants. Without the use of surfactants,
we limit skin irritation, the use of lipophilic
chain materials and sourcing issues such as
deforestation. We also limit the need to undergo
several steps, which leads to energy efficiency.
This is why we are investing in developing
Pickering emulsion systems from quinoa grains
for the development of the clean beauty products
of tomorrow.
Isabelle Lacasse, Global Marketing Director

IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

Maintaining Nature and Truly they are carefully obtained to save a maximum
quantity of natural compounds and trace
Green Solutions elements, they can solve problems in previously
The trends we see are primarily focused on unknown ways.
creating cosmetics that are more eco-friendly Based on our experience, they key is to offer
and naturally derived. Thus, manufacturers in truly green technologies to the market rather
this market, or those who want to enter it, turn than those that are given a green marketing
toward green ingredients and technologies. spin. Obviously, those of the latter approach
Here, there are also tendencies such as green appear more and more every day; and there is
preservatives and certifications to confirm demand, which means creating the respective
an ingredient’s organic and environmentally supply. Today, however, we offer a cold extrac-
friendly status, as well as the emergence of tion technology that is completely free from
technologies to create purer raw materials. It is everything except air at 35°C and our secret way
important to the entire preservative industry to of doing it.
become greener.
Understanding all of this, PineAqua Ltd. Irina Churikova, Product Manager
sought to produce cosmetic products without PineAqua Ltd.
preservatives. The company developed a
technology and produced a multifunctional
basis for cosmetic manufacturing that replaces
three phases in cosmetic manufacturing: water,
preservatives and specific active components;
active components are in the process of clini-
cal studies. This technology is green during all
stages of development.
The future seems very promising because
plant extracts offer vast opportunities. When

Unmodified Naturals and programs. In August, scientists announced

they have found an environmentally friendly
Upcycled Solutions way of producing potential sunscreens by
The bar for natural, sustainably sourced using cashew shells, a waste material. We’re
and effective ingredients has never been higher also seeing upcycling innovation in the private
than it is today. Consumers are highly educated sector, with BASF announcing new ingredients
and insist that brands use materials that aren’t upcycled from rambutan trees.
harmful to their bodies or to the environment. Renmatix also launched a new technology
Products featuring natural alternatives to called Celltice (INCI: Water (aqua) Acer rubrum
synthetic mainstays like silicones and PEGs, as extract (and) glycerin), an ingredient unlocked
well as high oil formulations, are in vogue. from a red maple co-product using supercritical
Many ingredients in personal care are either water. The ingredient offers interesting skin
synthetic or naturally modified; i.e., they began benefits while functioning as a powerful Picker-
with a natural source but became functional- ing emulsifier in a range of product categories.
ized to derive efficacy. This is true of most The future is bright.
surfactants and emulsifiers in use today. The
future direction for clean beauty is working Tony Abboud, General Manager
with raw materials found in nature that do not Renmatix
require any modification, and are unlocked
from plants sustainably using solvent-free
processes. Even more promising is the growing
trend of working with raw materials that have
been upcycled from botanical feedstocks that
are co-products of established industries.
Many upcycled ingredient innovations have
come out of university and state-level research

Social Media, Apps reduce the social and environmental impact
of its activities, giving equal importance to the
and Ethics planet, people and business. This strong gover-
The demand for healthy and eco-conscious nance, based on the guidelines of the ISO 26000
products is taking the industry by storm. Fifty- standard, allows consistency between product
two percent of consumers now check products portfolio and internal CSR policy management.
for sustainable claims, and 65% of global sales A holistic approach considers all CSR
are generated by brands with social and envi- impacts from the very first stages of product
ronmental values*. There is a major shift from development; without forgetting efficiency,
drivers such as price and convenience, to those of course. Ethical sourcing, an eco-designed
in line with the United Nations’ sustainable production mode, green phytochemical screen-
development goals: well-being, ethics, safety ing and vectorization, energy savings, concrete
and equity. People are now asking for qualified calculations of impact according to a dedicated
facts and proof around brands’ ethical and standard (ISO 16 128 or Eri 360) and working
sustainable practices. The need for transpar- conditions—Sederma is working at each level to
ency is greater than ever and now includes the optimize or reduce the social and environmen-
entire supply chain. tal impact of our activities.
Consumers have never had so much infor- Among all the green technologies, the use of
mation to help them in their product choices. Plant Cell Culture is worth mentioning. It only
Social media largely contributes to this phe- requires a small amount of plant while allowing
nomenon with tools on Instagram or apps such an optimal and standardized concentration
as CosmEthics, Clean Beauty and INCI Beauty of active molecules. One-third of Sederma’s
dedicated to scan everyday products. The three products are issued from super clean processes.
main criteria of these apps are health, sustain-
ability and ethics, and new generations of apps * Nielsen Global Survey of Corporate Social Responsibility
offer a more inclusive approach, scanning and Sustainability, Feb. 23–March 13, 2015
criteria all along the supply chain, even back to Pascaline Criton
the supplier of a product’s ingredients. Communications Manager
This is why, as a supplier, Sederma has been Sederma
actively engaged in a holistic CSR policy to

Eco Alarms and

Biotechnology
Consumers are more concerned about
safety than ever before, and they also want
natural products that deliver proven results.
Sustainability is an additional component.
In Aprinnova’s Future of Clean series, David
Tyrrell highlighted that eco alarms such as mass
extinctions and climate change-related events
will drive more “checkboxes” in the consumer’s
mind. This further drives expectations from
brands to meet clean criteria across the product
lifecycle. In addition , regulatory trends like
the ECHA D4/5 restriction are driving a switch
to silicone alternatives, which coincides with
consumer demand for silicone-free as an exten-
sion of the desire for natural products.
Consumer demand for natural is continuing
• highly pure ingredients with transparent
to evolve to focus on the principles of clean
supply chains;
such as safe, sustainable and effective. Clean
ingredient manufacturing and reduced packag- • ingredients that are effective, results-driven
ing are two areas primed to meet this demand. and that deliver a benefit;
The potential of biotechnology to deliver the • ingredients that are sustainable and renew-
purest and highest performance ingredients ably sourced; and
without harming the planet makes it well- • ingredients that can help you achieve
equipped to continue meeting this need on a consumer-desired safety standards like
broader scale. Brands that can develop a set of EWG verification.
go-to clean ingredients that adhere to a clean
At the same time, the digitization of
framework will likely find success.
consumer product evaluation and personal-
Aprinnova has actually developed an
ized beauty are driving the expectation for
“always” list to help brands move away from
blockchain transparency of products. This
clean-washing and toward clean impact.
will demand building the story from sus-
Always use:
tainable ingredients to reducing plastic use
in packaging.
Brands face supply chain risks and and the
variability in performance of key ingredients
such as emollients. In addition, not all natural
ingredients are safe, demonstrate high perfor-
mance or are sustainable. This is why “clean”
and “natural” are not the same thing. The good
news is that technologies like biofermenta-
tion can produce ingredients that are high
performance, natural, and sustainable. This is
one reason why Aprinnova’s Neossance line of
sugarcane-derived squalane and hemisqualane
is so popular.
John Toner
Senior Marketing Manager
Aprinnova

Verifiable Sustainability and Silicones, Safety and
Biotech Solutions Clean Beauty*
Clean beauty is a response to consumer The cosmetic industry has evolved to support
demand for two things: more natural ingre- market priorities for safety and performance, as
dients in their personal care products, and well as responsible sourcing. “You want a product
more transparency about ingredients in their to be both efficacious and safe,” said Margarita
personal care products—especially given a Arriagada, former chief merchant of Sephora. “But
lack of regulations. Leading brands are work- just because something is natural, doesn’t neces-
ing hard to provide more information and to sarily mean it’s good for you. The promised land is
educate consumers. safe and effective. …and the entire beauty industry
Consumers are expanding what they care needs to be transparent,” says Arriagada.
about. It’s not just ingredient safety, but also Sephora has defined clean beauty in what
social and environmental impact. Natural and could become the future direction for the cosmet-
non-toxic are great, but are no longer enough. ics industry. According to the company’s website,
The new bar is verifiable sustainability and a “Clean is simple: the beauty you want, minus the
positive social impact. ingredients you might not [want].” The current list
Biotechnology is a big deal. We can now of the “unwanteds” includes: the sulfates SLS and
produce common ingredients for the beauty SLES, parabens, formaldehydes, formaldehyde-
industry by fermenting sugars from plants releasing agents, phthalates, mineral oil, retinyl
rather than through chemical processing of palmitate, oxybenzone, coal tar, hydroquinone,
crude oil or coal. That means ethically sourced, triclosan and triclocarban. While consumers and
natural ingredients that are renewable, more leading retailers are still hammering out the defini-
sustainable and have a smaller environmental tion, one requirement for clean beauty remains
footprint. Genomatica’s natural 1,3-butylene consistent: ingredient safety.
glycol, Brontide, is a recent example of directly As most formulators are aware, silicones are
replacing high-performance ingredients with inert, non-reactive ingredients derived from quartz;
better, more sustainable versions. i.e., sand. These colorless odorless and non-ionic
materials exhibit no oxidation issues and often are
Kyle Huston
used to provide unique sensorial attributes in for-
Marketing Manager
mulas without causing irritation. In fact, silicones
Genomatica
are some of the most innocuous ingredients known,
as evidenced by nearly 70 years of research and
consumer use history. Due to their low incidence
of allergies, hospitals rely on silicone-based dress-
ings for wound care. And in the consumer market,
over-the-counter skin protectants and silicone scar
sheets are sold for FDA-approved scar prevention.
This is how Grant Industries’ silicones are an ideal
fit for clean beauty applications.
Charles Granatell, Chief Sales and

Marketing Officer, and John Gormley,
Director of Regulatory Affairs
Grant Industries, Inc.
*Adapted from Granatell, C. and Gormley, J. (2019). Safe

and sustainable. How silicones match the clean beauty
mindset. Clean Beauty e-book. Available at: https://www.
cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/marketdata/segments/Beauty-
Comes-Clean-Free-Ebook-511782962.html

Regulatory | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• The development of a new
cosmetic product is an extensive,
multistep process, from idea
generation to market launch.
• This fourth article in a
series explores the rules
for later steps in the
process: claims,
labeling and
manufacturing.
Revisit Parts I-III

See Part I in January 2019 (Page 20), Part II in May 2019
(Page 20) and Part III in Sept. 2019 (Page 46) of your
digital magazines.
CT191112_Regulatory_Yvon_fcx_DM.indd 34 11/11/19 11:06 AM

IV
Peer-reviewed
Back to
Basics Product Labeling, Manufacturing and Launch
Pascal Yvon
BioScience Expansion, LLC
Editor's note: The present series serves as a

primer for the cosmetic development process. This
fourth and final installment covers claims, labeling,
manufacturing and market launch.
Efficacy Claims
Fundamentals
T
Disclaimer: Check with your regulatory special-
ist to review your specific product and situation. Product efficacy and related claims are
critical elements in the marketing of a cosmetic
product, as they are essential tools to inform
consumers about a product’s characteristics and
quality. They help consumers to choose a prod-
uct that best suits their needs and expectations.
he development of a new cos- Although in the EU and U.S., as in many
metic product is an extensive, countries, there is no regulated list of accept-
multistep process, from idea able or unacceptable claims, claims must be
generation to market launch. substantiated, truthful and not misleading. For
Idea generation brings a general example, in the EU, (EC) 1223/2009 Art. 11.2 (d)
concept for a product to a cer- indicates that the Product Information File shall
tain population. After this inspired time, the creation contain, “where justified by the nature or the
of a new cosmetic will proceed into two main steps: effect of the cosmetic product, proof of the effect
1) product definition and formulation development claimed for the cosmetic product,” (see Table 1).
and 2) manufacturing, packaging and labeling, before Furthermore, studies to substantiate claims
(finally) moving on to market launch. The present should be carried out using the final formulation,
article explores the second half of this process. ideally in finished commercial packaging.
facebook.com/CandTmagazine Cosmetics & Toiletries @cosmeticsandtoiletries

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

Back to Basics IV
In the U.S., some products meet the

definitions of both cosmetics and drugs;
for example, when a product has two
intended uses, such as an SPF cosmetic.
Cosmetics vs. Drugs • EU (EC) 1223/2009—Art. 2: “Cosmetic

product” means any substance or mixture
The first step to making a product claim is to
intended to be placed in contact with the external
confirm the new product is, indeed, a cosmetic
parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system,
per regulatory definitions. A cosmetic product is
nails, lips and external genital organs) or with
defined in the U.S. and EU as follows:
the teeth and the mucous membranes of the
• U.S. FD&C Act—Section 201 (i): The
oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to
term ‘‘cosmetic’’ means (1) articles intended to be
cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their
rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, intro-
appearance, protecting them, keeping them in
duced into, or other-wise applied to the human
good condition or correcting body odors.
body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautify-
In the EU, soaps, sunscreens and
ing, promoting attractiveness, or altering the
antibacterial shampoos are considered
appearance, and (2) articles intended for use as a
cosmetic products.
component of any such articles; except that such
U.S. determining factors: In the U.S., if a
term shall not include soap.
product is marketed with claims that indicate an
Among the products included in this defini-
intent, for example, to treat or prevent disease,
tion are: skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks,
or otherwise affect the structure or function of
fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup
the human body, including the skin, it is consid-
preparations, cleansing shampoos, permanent
ered a drug. Claims indicating a cosmetic intent
waves, hair colors and deodorants. Section
deem the product to be a cosmetic. Following
201(i)(2) excludes soap from the definition of a
are some examples:
cosmetic. Also, in the U.S., sunscreens are over-
• Cosmetic claims: Cleansing, moisturizing,
the-counter (OTC), non-prescription drugs.
smoothing, freshening, “helps to …,” “improves
the appearance of …”
• Drug claims: Treats redness, anti-inflam-
Need to Start from matory, anti-acne, eczema, psoriasis, anti-septic/
anti-bacterial/antimicrobial.
the Beginning? The U.S. Food and Drug Administration
See Page 20 in our January 2019 (FDA) has issued warning letters to some firms
digital magazine for part I in this series. citing drug claims associated with topical skin
care, hair care and eyelash/eyebrow prepara-
tions noted on both product labeling and
websites. Examples of the drug claims cited are
'Eighteen weeks is the absolute quickest acne treatment, cellulite reduction, stretch mark
turnaround for a beauty product to go to market reduction, wrinkle removal, dandruff treatment,
because 12 weeks of data is required to show it hair restoration and eyelash growth.1 This is
is safe and effective.' due, in part, to the FDA’s evaluating cosmetic
claims in total context of all wording and
Source: Mark Curry, Be for images present in labels and collateral promo-
tional literature—including print advertising
Beauty, per Business of Fashion
and websites.

It is also important to note that in the U.S., uct; the context in which the claims are made;
some products meet the definitions of both the labeling and packaging; the promotional
cosmetics and drugs. This may happen when a literature and advertisements, etc.
product has two intended uses. For instance, a If the product meets the definition of a
shampoo is a cosmetic because it is intended to drug, it must comply with drug requirements,
cleanse the hair. An antidandruff treatment is even if it is also a cosmetic. It is the primary
a drug because it is intended to treat dandruff. responsibility of the manufacturers/responsible
Consequently, an antidandruff shampoo is both persons to determine the proper classification of
a cosmetic and a drug. Other examples include: the product, as well as insuring that the product
antimicrobial cleansers, anti-cavities tooth- complies with all applicable legal requirements.
paste, antiperspirant deodorants, and products
marketed with a sun protection claim. All Requirements for
products claiming to provide broad-spectrum
SPF protection are regulated as drugs. This also
Cosmetic Claims
applies to cosmetics and moisturizers labeled In the U.S., the FD&C Act—Section 301
with SPF values. prohibits the marketing of adulterated or
European determining factors: In Europe, misbranded cosmetics. “Misbranding” refers to
various guidance documents have been violations involving an improperly labeled or
developed on the delimitation between both a deceptively packaged product. A cosmetic is
cosmetics and drugs,2 and between cosmetics misbranded if its labeling is false or mislead-
and borderline products, i.e., biocides, medical ing in any way. In addition, while the FDA
devices, etc.3 A product is considered a drug regulates cosmetic labeling claims, the U.S.
either by virtue of its presentation—having Federal Trade Commission (FTC) regulates the
properties for treating or preventing disease in advertising claims in print and other media, and
human beings—or its function, e.g., restoring, requires them to be substantiated, truthful and
correcting or modifying physiological functions not misleading.
by exerting a pharmacological, immunological In Europe, based on Article 20 of Regula-
or metabolic action. tion (EC) No. 1223/2009, claims should not
A list of criteria to be taken into consid- be used to imply that cosmetic products have
eration may entail the following aspects: all characteristics or functions they do not have.
claims, explicit and implicit, made for the prod- Commission Regulation (EU) No. 655/2013
Product Information File
Description of Proof of the

Description of Cosmetic the method of effect claimed Data on animal
the cosmetic Product Safety manufacturing, for the testing
product Report statement GMP cosmetic
compliance product
Part A: Cosmetic Part B: Cosmetic

Product Safety Product Safety
information Assessment
Table 1. EU Product Information File and Cosmetic Product Safety Report

Back to Basics IV
one in developing the formulation, and ingre-

Selecting the appropriate dients should be selected accordingly. In the
example for hypoallergenic, the FDA does not
packaging is important provide a definition for this claim, and manufac-
turers are not required to submit substantiation
to maintain the quality of their hypoallergenicity claims to the FDA.
of a product and to avoid However, in Europe, the technical document

(v. 2017) provides guidance: the claim hypoal-
risks of misuse lergenic can only be used in cases where the

cosmetic product has been designed to mini-
or accident. mize its allergenic potential. Evidence should

be present to support the claim and confirm
a very low allergenic potential of the product
through scientifically robust and statistically
reliable data; e.g., reviewing post-marketing
established4 the EU’s six harmonized, common surveillance data. If a cosmetic product claims
criteria to assess whether the use of a claim is to be hypoallergenic, the presence of known
justified, including: allergens or allergen precursors also should be
1. Legal compliance. Claims that convey the totally avoided, including substances or mix-
idea that a product has a specific benefit tures: identified as sensitizers by risk assessment
when this benefit is merely in compliance committees; falling under the classification
with minimal legal requirements shall not of skin sensitizers; identified by the company
be allowed. on the basis of the assessment of consumer
2. Truthfulness. Claims shall not be based on complaints; generally recognized as sensitizers
false or irrelevant info. in the scientific literature; or for which relevant
3. Evidential support. Claims must be sup- data on their sensitizing potential is missing.
ported by verifiable evidence.
4. Honesty. Claims must not be misleading. Product Manufacturing
5. Fairness. Claims must be objective and After successful completion of the product
not denigrate competitors. development phase, the next important step is
6. Informed decision-making. Claims shall scale-up and manufacturing—i.e., production
be clear to the average user. and filling at a large scale. The European Regu-
lation stipulates that, to ensure safety, cosmetic
A technical document5 was issued in July products must be manufactured in accordance
2017 by the sub-working group on claims. with the standards laid out in Good Manufac-
The purpose of this document was to provide turing Practices (GMPs) ((EC) No. 1223/2009
guidance for the application of Regulation (EU) Art. 8). ISO 22716:2007 gives guidelines for the
No. 655/2013. This document also provides best production, control, storage and shipment of
practices for claim substantiation evidence, such cosmetic products.
as experimental studies, consumer perception GMP ensures that the product is prepared
tests and/or published information, or a combi- in a clean environment to avoid contamination
nation of these. during production. Microbial contamination
If the product is to list specific claims, e.g., can lead to product degradation and, in turn,
hypoallergenic, this must be considered from day cause harm to the consumer’s health. Micro-
biological quality and microbial contamination
control are described in ISO 17516:2014 and
Revisit Part II USP Chapters <61> and <62> (see part III in
this series).6
See Page 20 in our May 2019 digital Products sold in Europe must be manufac-
magazine for a refresh on part II. tured in a GMP-certified site, even if located
outside of Europe. GMP is not required in the
U.S. but is recommended. As part of a harmoni-

zation effort with the International Cooperation or accident. Packaging materials that directly
on Cosmetic Regulation (ICCR), the FDA agreed contact the product must be assessed for safety
to consider ISO 22716 and decided to incor- since some substances may migrate to or from
porate and modify it to issue a Guidance for the packaging material. It is important to
Industry.7 It indicates, “If you manufacture cos- get information from the packaging supplier,
metics, you can reduce the risk of adulterating such as the composition of the material, its
or misbranding cosmetics by following the GMP purity and stability, and any migration testing,
recommendations in this guidance;” note that a etc. The packaging also is evaluated during
cosmetic is adulterated if it has been prepared, stability studies.
packed or held under insanitary conditions In relation to packaging, in the U.S, a cos-
whereby it may have become contaminated with metic is considered adulterated if its container
filth, or whereby it may have been rendered is composed, in whole or in part, of any poison-
injurious to health. ous or deleterious substance that may render
the contents injurious to consumer health.
Product Packaging A cosmetic is also considered misbranded if
Selecting the appropriate packaging is its container is so made, formed or filled in a
important to maintain the quality of a product misleading manner.
and to avoid, as far as possible, risks of misuse

Back to Basics IV
Product Labeling personal care are required to bear an ingredient

declaration, which must be conspicuous so
European requirements: In Europe,
it is likely to be read at the time of purchase.
Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 Art. 19 indicates
These ingredients must be declared in descend-
cosmetic products may only be made available
ing order of predominance and must be
on the market when their containers and packag-
identified by the names established or adopted
ing bear the following information:
by regulation.
• Name and address of the responsible person; The label must indicate directions for safe
• Nominal content at the time of packaging; use and shall bear a warning statement, when-
• Shelf life, if less than 30 months, or period ever necessary or appropriate, to prevent any
after opening (PAO) if the shelf life is more potential health hazard that may be associated
than 30 months—note: it is highly recom- with the product, per 21 Code of Federal Regula-
mended to finalize these tests before printing tions (CFR) 740. As seen previously with regard
the labels in order to ensure this information to safety, and regarding the labeling of cosmetic
is included; products for which adequate substantiation
• Precautions to be observed during use; of safety has not been obtained (§740.10), any
• Batch number; such ingredient or product whose safety is not
• Function of the product; adequately substantiated prior to marketing
• INCI list of ingredients; and is misbranded unless it contains the following
• Country of origin for imported products. conspicuous statement on the principal display
The label information must appear in the panel: “Warning—The safety of this product
national language of the country where the has not been determined.” In addition, all label
product is marketed. This regulation applies to statements required by regulation must be
all cosmetic products; whether sold in stores, displayed in the English language.
through vending machines, by mail order, via the Misbranded cosmetics (U.S.): Cosmet-
internet, applied by professionals, made available ics bearing false or misleading statements or
in hotels, etc. otherwise not labeled in accordance with the
U.S. requirements: Cosmetics marketed in requirements may be considered misbranded.
the U.S., whether manufactured domestically or As described above, misbranding refers to viola-
imported, must comply with the labeling require- tions involving improperly labeled or deceptively
ments of the FD&C Act and the Fair Packaging packaged products.
and Labeling Act (FP&L Act).8 The FDA also has A cosmetic is deemed misbranded if:
issued guidance on cosmetic labeling.9 • its labeling is false or misleading in any
The principal display panel must indicate the particular;
identity statement—the name of the product and • its label does not include all required
its intended use—and bear an accurate statement information;
of the net quantity of contents of the cosmetic • the required information is not adequately
in the package. The name and place of business prominent and conspicuous;
of the firm marketing the product also must • its container is so made, formed or filled as
be stated on an information panel on the label, to be misleading;
and the Tariff Act of 1930 requires all imported • it is a color additive, other than a hair dye,
articles to state the English name of the country that does not conform to applicable regula-
of origin. tions; and
Furthermore, cosmetics produced or dis- • it fails to provide material facts; for
tributed for retail sale to consumers for their example, if any directions for safe use and
warning statements required to ensure a
product's safe use are omitted.
Revisit Part III Ingredient listing exemption (U.S.): Finally,
under the FP&L Act, ingredients must be listed
See Page 46 in our September 2019 by their “common or usual” names. Cosmetics
digital magazine to review part III.
that fail to comply with the FP&L Act are con-
sidered misbranded. However, since the FP&L

Act applies only to consumer commodities, the 3. European Commission website (Accessed 2019, Sep 24).
requirement for a list of ingredients does not Manual of the Working Group on Cosmetic Products (Sub-
Group on Borderline Products) on the Scope of Application
apply to cosmetics distributed solely for profes- of the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 (Art.
sional use; institutional use, e.g., in schools or 2(1)(A)) Version 3.1. Available at: https://ec.europa.eu/
hospitals; or as free samples. docsroom/documents/29002
4. European Union website (Accessed 2019, Sep 24). Com-
Conclusions mission Regulation (EU) No. 655/2013 of 10 July, 2013,

Laying Down Common Criteria for the Justification of Claims
For the successful development of new Used in Relation to Cosmetic Products. Available at: https://
eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2013:
cosmetic products, it is important to have a
190:0031:0034:EN:PDF
clear and up-to-date understanding of the regu-
5. European Union website (Accessed 2019, Sep 24).
latory framework in targeted territories. Being Technical Document on Cosmetic Claims Agreed by the
prepared for compliance from the start with a Sub-Working Group on Claims (Version of 3 July 2017).
Available (download) at: https://ec.europa.eu/docsroom/
sound and thorough action plan will allow for
documents/24847/attachments/1/translations/en/
optimal development time and smooth launch renditions/native
without costly setbacks and delays, or compro- 6. Yvon, P. (2019, Sep 1). Back to basics, part III: Testing for
mising safety and efficacy. This is of particular preservation and stability. Cosm & Toil. Available at: https://
www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/testing/microbialanalysis/
importance in today’s world of reduced project
Back-to-Basics-Part-III-Testing-for-Preservation-and-
timeline goals, as consumers expect product Stability-558837381.html
innovations and subsequent market launches in 7. FDA website (Accessed 2019, Sep 24). Draft Guid-
shorter timeframes. ance for Industry: Cosmetic Good Manufacturing
Practices June 2013. Available at: https://www.fda.gov/
Taking together part I-IV in this series, plus
regulatory-information/search-fda-guidance-documents/
product registration in some territories, it is draft-guidance-industry-cosmetic-good-manufacturing-
now the exciting time for product launch. practices
8. U.S. Government Publishing Office website (Accessed
2019, Sep 24). Electronic Code of Federal Regulations, Part
References 500—Regulations Under Section 4 of the Fair Packaging &
1. U.S. FDA website (Accessed 2019, Sep 24). Warning Labeling Act. Available at: https://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-
Letters Related to Cosmetics. Available at: https://www.fda. idx?c=ecfr&sid=d46d8c24934536de0ef58344303bf174&rg
gov/Cosmetics/ComplianceEnforcement/WarningLetters/ n=div5&view=text&node=16:1.0.1.5.62&idno=16
default.htm 9. FDA website (Accessed 2019, Sep 24). Food and Drug
2. European Commission website (Accessed 2019, Sep 24). Administration Cosmetic Labeling Guide. Available
Guidance Document on the Demarcation Between the download at: https://www.fda.gov/downloads/Cosmetics/
Cosmetic Products Directive 76/768 and the Medicinal Labeling/UCM391202.pdf
Products Directive 2001/83 as Agreed Between the Com-
mission Services and the Competent Authorities of Member
States. Available at: http://ec.europa.eu/DocsRoom/
documents/13032/attachments/1/translations

Research | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Personalized medicine, aided by advances
including pharmacogenomics, is ready for
mainstream clinical adoption.
• The authors suspect such techniques

could be applicable for personalized
cosmetics, complete with tolerance and
efficacy considerations.
A Dermatological View
Has the Time Come?*
O
*Adapted with permission from Do, L. and
Maibach, H.I. (2018). Pharmacogenomics/
updated for precision medicine in dermatol-
ogy. J Dermatological Treatment 30(4).
Le H.D. Do,
Pham Ngoc Thach
ver decades, we have reviewed, with patients
University of Medicine
and consumers, few to dozens of cosmetics
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
and skin care products they have discarded
Howard I. Maibach, M.D. either due to a suspected allergy or because the
University of California products were believed to not be suitable for
San Francisco their skin, based either on intolerance and/or
lack of efficacy. This ambiguity encourages the development of tools to assist in
product personalization, which has thrived among cosmetic companies.
With no-expertise-required diagnostic and non-invasive devices, cosmetic
brands train technicians to assess customers' skin and/or

CT191112_Research_Maibach_fcx.indd 42 11/4/19 12:50 PM

Despite their convenience and popularity,
current personalization devices lack clinically
published follow-up data and cannot predict
potential adverse events.
hair, which then provides a measurement to aid

in product selection.
Some models can connect to the internet
and transfer data back to companies' servers.
One that is widely used is Unilever's Dove brand
Advanced Diagnostic Instrument (DADI), which
uses hair-on-hair friction to instantly measure
surface damage.1 The technician then uses the
damage score to advise on a product regime.
Eventually, the device uploads the consumer’s
hair damage scores along with demographic
information, which provides extensive data for
further analysis.
Another popular device is Nuskin's Phar-
manex BioPhotonic Scanner (PBPS), which
measures carotenoid levels at the skin’s surface
using optical signals.2 By placing the palm of
a customer's hand in front of the scanner's
low-energy blue light, a reading is obtained
of the carotenoid antioxidant levels, which
helps to recommend a care regime. Like DADI, been inaccurate after certain events, such as a
PBPS can also send customers' data back to blood transfusion. In addition, this approach
Nuskin's database. could not predict efficacy or dose-independent
Despite their convenience and popularity, drug reactions.
however, these devices lack clinically published The establishment of the Human Genome
follow-up data with well-controlled evidence on Project in the 1990s revealed genotypes as a
their reliability; companies’ financial interests possible explanation for individual susceptibili-
may make them even contentious. Importantly, ties to specific agents. The past decade, from
these devices still cannot predict potential 2009-2019, saw important advances in genomic
adverse events. research on adverse drug reactions, gene-
disease associations and gene-drug interactions
‘Typing’ Consumers worldwide. The knowledge gained from these
While phenotypes such as hair and skin findings will form the basis for better predic-
condition may be acceptable for suggesting tions of adverse drug reactions, consequently
short-term products, they cannot predict a sus- resulting in individualized medicine.
pected allergy or the long-term efficacy for an
individual. Indeed, these are based on the same
rationale as analyzing enzyme and metabolite With too many options, beauty consumers are
assays; in the 1970s, authors proposed person- less likely to purchase anything or be happy
alizing drug therapies based on clinical studies with what they bought. This is one reason
of individuals' enzyme and metabolite assays, brands have started using personalization.
which were used to categorize patients into
groups of different metabolism rates. These
methods were time-consuming and may have
Source: Fat Bit Technologies

and Drug Administration (FDA) has required

clinicians to test the CYP2D6 gene before
initiating use of this drug due to its potential
prolonged half-life on poor CYP2D6 metaboliz-
ers, which can lead to cardiac events.
Testing Platforms
Since 2004, the U.S. FDA has approved
a good number of genetic testing platforms.
By 2017, a total of 76 pharmacogenomic
testing services were available: 30 provided
only multiple gene panel tests; 31 provided
only single gene panel tests; and 15 offered
both types of tests—all covered 295 genes.5
This expansion marked the FDA’s vision for
pharmacogenomic application.
Among companies providing these services,
Genesight introduce a tool for medication selec-
tion, which only requires a basic knowledge of
drug-gene interactions. Clinicians can receive
guidance for drug therapy just 36 hours after
testing a buccal swab. These medications are
listed in generic and brand names, which eases
Pharmacogenomics the heavy workload and aids in the effortless
Pharmacogenomics, defining the relation- access to precision medicine.
ship between genetic variation and drug
response, holds the key to precision medicine Conclusions
and can be utilized to optimize drug therapy. Taken together, personalized medicine, aided
One important implementation of pharma- by many advances including pharmacogenom-
cogenomics in dermatology is the cancer ics, is ready for mainstream clinical adoption
growth blocker drug vemurafenib, used against in a cost-effective manner. We suspect the
melanoma.3 Melanoma is an aggressive skin technique described here could be applicable
cancer that causes the majority of skin cancer for advances in cosmetic tolerance and efficacy.
deaths in the U.S. We await, with enthusiasm, the individuals and
The rationale for using vemurafenib is based groups in academia and industry prepared to
on the BRAF gene, which contains instructions undertake/accept this challenge.
for making signals to initiate cell division,
cell death and to turned signals on and off as
References
needed. If a mutation affects the BRAF gene,
1. Sagentia website (accessed 2019, Oct 11). Unilever
cells can grow uncontrollably and cause cancer.
DADI: Innovative personal care diagnostic device.
Vemurafenib, however, binds to the mutant Available at https://www.sagentia.com/case-study/
BRAF gene and inhibits cell proliferation. Only unilever-dadi-innovative-personal-care-diagnostic-device/
patients with this type of mutation can benefit 2. NuSkin website (accessed 2019, Oct 11). What is the S3
scanner? Available at https://www.nuskin.com/en_US/
from this drug, however; vemurafenib should
products/pharmanex/scanner/s3_whatis.html
not be used on melanoma patients with the 3. Roos, W.P., Quiros, S., Krumm, A., et al. (2014). B-Raf
BRAF wild-type gene due to the risk of intensi- inhibitor vemurafenib in combination with temozolomide and
fying cell division. fotemustine in the killing response of malignant melanoma
cells. Oncotarget 5(24) 12607-12620.
Another example of the importance of
4. Lorenzo, C.R. and Koo, J. (2004). Pimozide in dermatologic
genetic testing before drug treatment is practice: A comprehensive review. Am J Clin Dermatol 5(5)
pimozide, which plays a complemental role in 339-49.
treating trichotillomania, a desire to pull one's 5. Haga, S.B., and Kantor, A. (2018, May). Horizon scan of
hair; and postherpetic neuralgia, long lasting clinical laboratories offering pharmacogenetic testing. Health
Aff 37(5) 717-723; doi:10.1377/hlthaff.2017.1564
pain after shingles disappear.4 The U.S. Food

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Testing | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Softness technically seems the opposite of
stiffness but measuring properties related
to fiber stiffness is difficult due to hair’s
anisotropic structure. And while hair is
technically “softened” at elevated humidity,
this is the definition of a “bad hair day.”
• Improving fiber flexibility without adversely

impacting breakage seems a sound
technical strategy; preliminary results
shown here suggest oil treatments might
provide this outcome. That said, softness
claims are generally substantiated via
tactile improvements in hair lubrication.
Testing Tactics in Hair
A Soft
Touch Concepts in Hair Softness
Trefor A. Evans, Ph.D.

TRI Princeton
Princeton, NJ USA
46 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
W hen asked to describe their hair care wants and needs,
consumers will rattle off all manner of terms and
expressions that have become eminently recognizable to
the hair product development chemist. We call these hair
attributes and they represent the lexicon of our industry.
On occasion, new attributes and desires may arise—per-
haps based on current fashion trends, social issues or any number of other influencing factors.
At the same time, a number of stalwarts have been constant in our industry for many years. One
such example is hair softness.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all

or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
Vol. 134, No. 10 | November/December 2019
CT191112_Testing_Evans_fcx.indd 46 11/11/19 11:29 AM

When considering the
'stiffness' of a hair
fiber, it is important
to consider the
Arguably, softness
might indeed be the direction and mode
most frequently men-
tioned attribute in hair
of deformation.
care advertising and claims.
Sometimes it is called out by
itself, but often it is seen in tandem with affects hair properties. For example, the tough
other properties; for example, soft and cuticle layer has a significant impact on fiber
beautiful; soft and smooth; soft and bending and twisting properties but is thought
healthy; soft and shiny, etc. Accord- to have no meaningful contribution to the exten-
ingly, it seems prudent to consider sional properties of hair. Further, when wetted,
this topic in our continuing explora- hair swells only very slightly in the longitudinal
tion of the science and measurement plane—as a result of the resistance provided
of various hair-related attributes. by the IFs—but appreciable unrestricted radial
To doing so, we begin by taking swelling occurs. In short, when considering
this term literally and discussing the “stiffness” of a hair fiber, it is important to
approaches for measurement of its consider the direction and mode of deformation.
antithesis—stiffness. Accordingly, we The evaluation of an extensional stiffness,
consider two measurement techniques or modulus, from conventional single fiber,
that have not yet been discussed in this constant extension rate experiments has been
series, namely: evaluation of hair’s bending discussed previously.1 In brief, this involves
and torsional moduli. calculating the slope of the initial portion of a
stress-strain curve, where an essentially linear
Stiffness Comparisons relationship exists between these two variables.
Many excellent texts summarize the truly Accordingly, it becomes relatively easy to assess
remarkable structure of hair fibers. In how variables such as product treatments,
brief summary, the inside of hair’s struc- insults and/or environmental factors can alter
ture consists of elongated cortical cells this property.
that align parallel to the plane of the
fiber, and that are embedded in a A Plot Twist
lipid-like cell membrane complex. As mentioned, the cuticle structure is
These cortical cells have addi- thought to have a bigger impact on bending and
tional fine structures consisting twisting (torsional) properties of hair. By means
of water-impenetrable crystalline of illustration, Equation 1 gives an expression
keratin protein intermediate for the torsional modulus of an individual hair
filaments (IFs). These reside in
an amorphous keratin matrix.
This whole inner structure is
encased in hard, tough, scale-like
structures, collectively termed the The North American hair conditioner market is
cuticle, that protect the more expected to reach US $3.1 billion by 2023, expanding
vulnerable interior. at a CAGR of 3.2% from 2018. Conditioners account
It is important to for 53% of market share for hair care.
consider these basics
to acknowledge the Source: Mordor Intelligence
anisotropy of hair
fibers and how this

A Soft Touch
fiber, where Et is the torsional modulus, I is the from a so-called torsional pendulum experi-
moment of inertia, L is the fiber length, D is ment.2-6 Figure 1 shows an example of such a
the fiber diameter and P is the period of oscilla- device that was designed and built internally. A
tion. Particular attention is drawn to the power traditional pendulum swings back and forth at a
relationship between this parameter and the given frequency and with progressively decreas-
diameter, which illustrates how material located ing amplitude. Likewise, in a torsion pendulum,
further from the core, i.e., the tougher outer a hair fiber is wound up, released and allowed to
cuticle, will have amplified effects. twist and untwist in a similar periodic manner.
More specifically, Equation 1 describes The white marking on the bob attached to the
how the torsional modulus can be evaluated hair tip is identified as it passes in front of a
detector. This allows for the quantification of a
period and amplitude of oscillation.
Figure 2 shows the torsional modulus
Equation 1 results for hair fibers, both with and without a
cuticle, as a function of the relative humidity
of the environment. On one hand, this graph
demonstrates the aforementioned contribu-
tion of the cuticle while on the other hand, it
also shows how hair can be plasticized by the
increasing fiber water content that accompanies
a higher-humidity environment.7
Product and
Ingredient Effects
Many aggressive hair treatments and
practices, i.e., perms, relaxers, permanent
color, heat straightening/curling, increase
hair’s dry-state modulus. Earlier articles in this
series8-10 have illustrated this occurrence via
Figure 1. Torsion pendulum extensional results—and so, technically, hair
fibers do become stiffer as a result of these
treatments. Further, these
treatments are widely
associated with diminish-
ing tactile properties,
which might seem in line
with consumer feedback
pertaining to hair feeling
“coarser.” So, can we
reverse this occurrence?
The decrease in hair
stiffness with increas-
ing humidity shown in
Figure 2 arises from
higher water content,
which leads to increased
solvation of secondary
electrostatic bonding
within the amorphous
matrix protein. There-
Figure 2. Torsional modulus results for virgin Caucasian hair, fore, from a mechanical
both with and without cuticle, as a function of relative humidity perspective, fibers do
indeed become softer.

Figure 3. Hair plasticization/softening as a result of soaking
hair in a 5% glycerol solution
This plasticization can similarly be produced in a somewhat more perma-

nent manner via treatment of hair with other small molecules that have
hydrogen-bonding capability.
For example, Figure 3 shows how treating hair with a 5% glycerol
solution produces similar plasticization, although to a lesser degree. That
said, the water-loving nature of such ingredients suggest little likelihood
for retention within the hair from traditional rinse-off products. Instead,
leave-in products would seem a better delivery vehicle.
Stiffer or Softer?
It is therefore possible to manipulate hair such that it technically
becomes softer; but it is prudent to question whether this is a good thing.
For example, hair is technically softer on high humidity days—a condition
that generally is associated with many negative hair properties; here, the
hair is similarly weaker and can exhibit a substantially higher propensity
for breakage.11
Also, fiber stiffness is thought to be an important component in attain-
ing hair volume or body.9 A recent article in this series12 highlighted a
means for attaining this end via soaking hair in solutions of carboxylic
acids and phenols, which seemingly lowers the water content of hair and
concomitantly produces an increase in fiber stiffness. So perhaps this is
another example of where consumer expression does not equate to techni-
cal understanding; but before pursuing this line of thinking, let us first
consider the measurement of hair bending.
Bending the Rules

Equation 2 gives an expression for the bending modulus of hair,13
where Eb is the bending modulus, T is the applied bending force, d is the

A Soft Touch
fiber length and A is the cross-sectional area. Figure 4. The device has the potential to reveal
Once again, we see a power law relationship much new information on this previously
between the fiber dimensions and the mechani- difficult-to-assess fiber property.
cal properties of the fiber, where a thicker fiber
will be more difficult to bend than a thinner one. Penetrating Questions
It is again worth returning to the bewilder-
ingly complex structure of hair and its impact
on fiber properties. The cuticle is an outer
Equation 2 protective layer whose purpose is to shield the
more vulnerable internal structure. To this end,
However, this is an oversimplified expression it represents a barrier to materials penetrating
that does not consider the elliptical cross section inside of hair. In previous articles, we have
of hair. Most hair fibers are decidedly ellipti- discussed how incursion of materials into hair
cal, sometimes overtly so, and accordingly will is not a trivial matter—despite frequent pre-
possess different bending properties about their sumptions that anything dissolved or dispersed
major and minor axes;14 and indeed, all points in in water will readily penetrate. Perhaps the
between. So strictly speaking, a hair fiber does intrinsic function of the cuticle implies that
not have a single bending modulus and anisot- this is not such a good idea after all?
ropy again complicates the situation. Penetrating materials presumably induce
A relatively new commercial instrument some extent of disruption to the internal
addresses this very issue. Experiments are structure, which in turn might be expected
performed via a single cantilever approach and to adversely impact mechanical properties.
multiple measures can be performed as the Indeed, as discussed, the penetration of many
fiber is rotated. The device operates in a fully materials results in the plasticization of fibers,
automated manner, allowing these measure- wherein they become weaker and more prone
ments about the fiber axis to be performed while to breakage. But as outlined herein, if materials
also simultaneously allowing for the testing of only penetrate and become retained within the
multiple replicate samples for statistical pur- cuticle, then the bending and twisting proper-
poses. A close-up of the testing head is shown in ties of the hair could be facilitated without
compromising
tensile strength.
Figure 5 shows
the torsional
modulus results for
hair that had been
subjected to a pro-
longed soak in argan
oil. These rather
extreme treatment
conditions were
chosen as a worse/
best case scenario;
experiments involv-
ing more realistic
exposures must still
be performed. How-
ever, initial results
suggest a significant
decrease in the tor-
sional stiffness while
Figure 4. Testing head of a commercial single fiber bending tensile experiments
instrument; photo courtesy of Dia-stron Ltd., Andover, UK showed no effect. In
short, this suggests

Here, evidence shows that oils can improve the
flexibility of hair without the adverse effects
that might associate with penetration into the
inner cortex.
the oil was able to penetrate
the cuticle, but seemingly not
into the cortex.
The oiling of hair likely
represents the oldest of all
hair care practices, which has
been performed since ancient
times—and persists today.
Yet it could be questioned
whether such treatments
provide benefit beyond
surface effects, where shine is
enhanced, and manageability
can be facilitated via lubrica-
tion. Here, we seemingly have
evidence to show that oils can
improve the flexibility of hair
but without adverse effects
that might associate with pen-
etration into the inner cortex. Figure 5. Torsional modulus results for bleached hair after
Most natural oils represent prolonged soaking in argan oil
complex mixtures of sizable

A Soft Touch
components. Therefore, we might not expect are thought to contain cuticle effects, while
penetration to be rapid, and it does not seem extension is not. Sound scientific methods for
unreasonable that they might only accumulate in evaluating these properties have been described
the cuticle. Yet the varying composition of these herein; yet, as always in our field, there is a need
oils could seemingly dictate the rate at which this to consider whether consumers and scientists
occurs. are speaking the same language.
The single biggest contributor to technical
Summary hair stiffness is its water content (see Figure 2)
There is perhaps a natural tendency to think of but while hair is “softened” at elevated humidity,
softness as the opposite of stiffness, and so literal such conditions represent the very definition
technical evaluation of hair might involve a variety of a consumer’s “bad hair day.” Terminology
of mechanical testing approaches. However, pertaining to consumer-perceived “softness”
hair’s anisotropic structure dictates that differing generally begins with conditioning treatments,
results can be obtained using different deforma- where the primary technical functionality
tion modes. Specifically, bending and twisting involves surface lubrication.
No apparent or convincing data has previ-
ously suggested that such treatments impact
hair’s mechanical properties—outside of the oil
Body Talk: effects shown in Figure 5—but even then, such
Defining Volume changes pale in comparison to sizeable lubrica-
tion magnitudes. We therefore find ourselves
See Page 48 in the concluding that, to consumers, “softness”
June 2018 digital magazine. likely represents the alleviation of a coarse,

rough hair feel, which predominantly relates 12. Evans, T.A. (2018, Oct). Your hair on acid: The influence of
carboxylic acids. Cosm & Toil 133(9) 40-48.
to the deterioration of the hair’s outer cuticle
13. Scott, G.V. and Robbins, C.R. (1978). Stiffness of human
structure. Accordingly, in the hair claims world, hair fibers. J Cos Sci 29 469-485.
this attribute is most often substantiated using 14. Swift, J.A. (1995). Some simple theoretical considerations
instrumental combing experiments15 rather than on the bending stiffness of human hair. Int J Cosmet Sci 17
the described mechanical approaches. 245-253.
However, these lesser studied techniques 15. Evans, T.A. (2011, Aug). Evaluating hair conditioning with
instrumental combing. Cosm & Toil 126(8) 558-563.
potentially hold the key to unexplored funda-
mental hair properties. As explained, an ability
to improve hair’s flexibility without adversely
impacting breakage would seem a highly desir- C&T Daily Newsletter
able occurrence, and the preliminary results
Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
presented here show how oil treatments might delivered straight to your inbox everyday!
induce this outcome. However, compositional
variability implies that differing penetration http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
rates could ensue in different oils.
The twisting and, in particular, bending
properties of hair have received surprisingly
little attention in the scientific literature—likely C&T Sponsored Webcast Videos
due to measurement complications and the Find current and upcoming webcasts at
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high number of replicate fibers that must be
tested for statistical confidence. However, new
automated instrumentation is making these
properties much easier to study and in doing so,
new discoveries are expected.
Acknowledgements: Figures 2 and 5 were generated by

Kimun Park, a former TRI staff scientist. Figure 4 was
provided by Yann Leray, of Dia-stron Ltd., who also
brought reference 14 to the author’s attention.
References
1. Evans, T.A. (2013, Aug). Measuring hair strength, part 1:
Stress-strain curves. Cosm & Toil 128(8) 590-594. See you in
2. Bogerty, H. (1967). Torsional properties of hair in relation to
permanent waving and setting. J Cosm Sci 18 575-589. October 2020
3. Wolfram, L.J. and Albrecht, L. (1985). Torsional behavior of
human hair. J Cosm Sci 36 87-99.
4. Persaud, D. and Kameth, Y.K. (2004). Torsional method
for evaluating hair damage and performance of hair care
ingredients. J Cosm Sci 55(suppl.) S65-S77.
5. Harper, D.L. and Kameth, Y.K. (2007). The effect of treat-
ments on the shear modulus of human hair measured by
single fiber torsion pendulum. J Cosm Sci 58 329-337.
6. Wortmann, F.J., Wortmann, G., Haake, H.-M. and Eisfeld,
W. (2014). Analysis of the torsional modulus of human hair
and its relation to hair morphology. J Cosm Sci 65 59-68.
7. Evans, T.A. (2014, Mar). Measuring the water content of
hair. Cosm & Toil 129(2) 64-69.
8. Evans, T.A. (2017, Jun). How damaged is hair?–Part 2: beautyaccelerate.com
Internal damage. Cosm & Toil 132(6) 36-45.
9. Evans, T.A. (2017, Jul/Aug). How damaged is hair?–Part 3:
Better defining the problem. Cosm & Toil 132(7) 58-67.
10. Evans, T.A. (2018, Jun). Hair volume and body–A technical
dissertation. Cosm & Toil 133(6) 48-55.
Produced by
11. Evans, T.A. (2017, Sep). New ideas and thoughts on hair
breakage. Cosm & Toil 132(8) 46-53.

Testing | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• To ensure a product’s success, especially
in light of ‘clean beauty’ tenets, it must
be tested for stability as well as safety
and efficacy.
• The following primer offers an overview

of key tests to perform as products
are developed and prepared
for launch.
SAFETY
F RST A Safety, Toxicity and
Irritation Testing Primer

CT191112_Testing_Singh_fcx_DM.indd 54 11/11/19 11:38 AM

facebook.com/CandTmagazine
Cosmetics & Toiletries
@cosmeticsandtoiletries
Vinay Kumar Singh

Ganesha Cosmetic Products, Mumbai
A product is
successful
when it
sells on
the market
and brings
profit and revenue for the manu-
T
facturer. In order for a product
to succeed, quality is a crucial
factor to gain consumer
acceptance. To ascertain the
quality of a product, it must
be tested based on vari-
ous parameters; without
testing, one cannot be sure
of its quality, safety and/or
efficacy. The following is a
primer for novice chem-
ists and a refresher for
more seasoned experts.
Stability
Testing
Stability test-
ing evaluates a
product’s ability to
Editor’s note: Of all the interpretations for clean beauty, by far, the most maintain its original
widely accepted refers to products developed with a heightened focus on safety. In aesthetic, physical and
consideration of this facet, we present the following overview of product testing
for safety, toxicity and irritation, as well as stability.
chemical characteristics. It
is performed under controlled
conditions designed to accelerate
Vol. 134, No.

Reproduction 10 |orNovember/December
in English of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
any other language of all or part2019 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 55

Safety First
There are cosmetic ingredients that, to a

majority of users, are completely safe but
to a limited few, can produce two types of
allergic reactions: irritation and sensitization.
a product’s aging. This “early warning system” Accelerated Tests

can indicate problems that may occur with the
To obtain stability data in a shorter time-
formulation, package, etc. The results of stabil-
frame than actual shelf-life, accelerated testing
ity tests can be helpful in many ways—not only
is conducted. This involves exposing the product
to guide the chemist during product develop-
to parameters including: elevated temperature
ment and ensure the product will maintain its
and humidity, sunlight, condition cycling tests,
aesthetics, but also to determine whether the
freeze-thaw tests, mechanical tests and compat-
product will perform as intended and remain
ibility testing.
safe to use. Furthermore, testing can forewarn
Elevated temperature: Storage at an
the manufacturer of potential problems that
elevated temperature is critical, since the rate of
could occur after the consumer has purchased
a chemical reaction roughly doubles for every
the product. Thus, stability testing can help to
ten degrees of temperature increase. As such, an
identify future risks and provide guidelines for
elevated temperature test can reveal problems
future evaluations.
sooner than they would appear at room temper-
When to test: Stability testing is performed
ature. The drawback of this process, however, is
at various stages of development: whenever a
that it may force reactions to occur that would
new formulation is developed; when qualifying
not otherwise happen at lower temperatures.
a new raw material; when a modification has
The most common storage conditions
been made to the formula or manufacturing
for testing are: 45°C, 54°C, 37°C, 35°C, room
process; and when a change has been made to
temperature and 4°C. It is also recommended
the primary or immediate packaging.
to store enough of a sample to make all the
What to test: Stability testing includes
observations required as per your specification.
assessments of various product parameters.
At each checkpoint, the product should be
These include compatibility; physical changes
examined for parameters including: physical
that occur over time, i.e., viscosity, texture, color,
attributes such as color, odor and viscosity;
odor, loss of volatile constituents and uptake of
preservative efficacy and the prevention of
water; chemical changes, e.g., pH, degradation
microbial growth; percentage of actives; and
of or interaction between active constituents,
functional attributes.
microbiological spoilage; and changes that
Elevated humidity: Since many products
occur in the primary package, such as leakage,
are adversely affected by moisture, storage at
corrosion or stress cracking.
elevated humidity levels is typically a part of
stability testing.
In the U.S., since January 2019, 36 cosmetic Freeze-thaw tests: Subjecting a product to
recalls were reported; 17 were due to potential alternate freezing and thawing can be of value
microbial contamination and three were due to to indicate the tendency of products to cloud
excessive fragrance and irritation potential or or crystallize, and to understand the general
physical stability of creams, liquid components
failure to declare allergens.
thereof and other liquid emulsions.
Condition cycling tests: Testing products
Source: U.S. Food and Drug
under conditions that are periodically changed
Administration
also can impose greater stress on samples than

would storage under constant conditions. The the sorption of formula constituents by the
following is suggested as a general approach to container; the leaching of container constituents
cycling conditions: 37°C/80% RH, alternating into the formula; and adverse effects on the
every 24 hr with 20°C/ambient humidity; and/or container, such as corrosion.
mean maximum temperature and mean maxi-
mum humidity, alternating every 24 hr with Safety Testing
20°C/ambient humidity. In India, cosmetic product regulations of
Exposure to sunlight: In cases where the Consumer Protection Act state that all
products are likely to be exposed to light in the cosmetics and personal care products should
marketplace or during use, it is necessary to not harm users.1 Similarly, in the United States,
investigate the effects of such exposure. In most adulterated cosmetics, i.e., “those that bear or
cases, when sunlight negatively affects stability, contain any poisonous or deleterious substance
the product changes color. which may render it injurious to users under
Mechanical tests: The vibration of samples the conditions of use prescribed in the labeling
can be useful to assess whether de-mixing is thereof…” are not permitted, per Chapter 9 of
likely to occur in powder or granular products. the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act.2
It can also serve to indicate emulsion stability. In Europe, Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009
Compatibility testing: Finally, as noted, states,3 “Cosmetic products should be safe under
compatibility testing goes hand in hand with normal or reasonably foreseeable conditions
stability testing to highlight any interactions of use. In particular, a risk-benefit reasoning
between a product’s contents and its immediate should not justify a risk to human health.” So,
container. Interactions to watch for include: the underlying message is: all cosmetic products

Safety First Safety First
In order to establish a frame of reference

to determine product efficacy, it is usual to
include both positive and negative controls.
must be formulated with the safety of the end a freshly manufactured product; the intent of
user in mind. Safety testing generally involves adding preservatives to the formula is to defend
three types: microbiological, toxicity and against microbes gaining entry during use; i.e.,
irritation/sensitization. from consumer interaction or if containers are
Microbiological: Bacteria, mold and yeasts left open, exposing the product.
are everywhere, and most cosmetic products, Both raw materials and finished products
particularly those containing water, potentially should be checked for microbial content. This
provide food and a hospitable habitat for micro- is accomplished by diluting a sample of known
organisms. If these entities gain a foothold in a volume with diluent and using this to inoculate
product, they will quite likely spoil it and could an agar jelly plate. The plate is then incubated
even present a health hazard to the user. at 37°C for 48 hr—long enough for any viable
Since most users would prefer not to keep micro-organisms to grow into a colony large
cosmetics refrigerated, or typically will not use enough to be seen and counted. From this
them within two days of purchase as they would count, the number of viable micro-organisms
food, cosmetic products require some form in each cm3 of product can be calculated. This
of preservative to inhibit the growth of micro- is the total viable count (TVC); the goal is to
organisms. Microbes should not be present in achieve a TVC < 10/cm3.

In addition, manufacturers should assess
whether the preservatives added to a formula are
effective. To check this, a microbial challenge test is
performed.4-6
Toxicity: Clearly, toxic materials should not be
used in cosmetics. However, as most scientists will
agree, “the dose makes the poison,” and there are
certain materials that at low percentages are safe
to use topically but at high concentrations or via
different exposure routes are toxic. Each country’s
regulatory authority sets forth maximum use levels
and, in some cases, allowed applications (i.e., leave-
on or rinse-off) for these materials.
For example, formaldehyde is allowed in nail
hardeners up to a maximum of 5%. Boric acid is
allowed in talcum powders at a maximum of 5% but
the label must state: “Not to be used for children
under 3 years of age.” There are also restrictions on
the use of thioglycolic acid, and in IS 4707, part 1
of the Indian Standard, there is a separate annex on
preservatives that can be used in cosmetics, again
with concentration restrictions.7
For cosmetic purposes, it is essential to use
materials of a suitable standard and purity. All raw
materials intended for use in consumer products
must have been tested for potential toxicity. While
previous testing relied on animal models, these are
no longer allowed in many regions. Alternate in
vitro tests are used for this purpose. In India, for
example, the Bureau of Indian standards has out-
lined safety evaluation methods in IS 4011, Methods
of Test for Safety Evaluation of Cosmetics.8 For oral
toxicity, the European Commission’s 3T3 Neutral
Red Uptake Cytotoxicity Assay is referenced.9
Depending on the product, in vitro tests may be
carried out to determine a product’s safety before
human participant studies are conducted to further
confirm tolerance. Any human testing must be sci-
entifically justified; unjustified testing is unethical.
These tests should be conducted on selected panels
of human volunteers using good clinical practices,
under the supervision of dermatologist and/or
ophthalmologist and/or pediatrician (depending on
the nature of the evaluation).
Irritation and sensitization: There are cos-
metic ingredients that to a majority of users are
completely safe, but to a limited few can produce
two types of allergic reactions: irritation and
sensitization. Some known potential irritants or
sensitizers may be used by the manufacturer due
to the unavailability of safer alternatives. Examples
include para-phenylene diamine and para-toluene
diamine, in hair dyes; thioglycolic acid in permanent

Safety First
waving hair lotions; and lanolin, which is an and considerations. These include patch test-
excellent emollient for skin. In these and other ing, photosensitivity, eye irritation, inhalation
cases, the materials have been deemed valuable testing, acnegenicity/comeodogenicity and
enough to risk their use, knowing they may systemic effects.
adversely affect a very limited number of people. Patch testing: Patch testing involves the
When a known irritant or sensitizer is included following steps: preparing a patch test strip;
in a product, however, it must be stated on the applying product or ingredient samples to
label, together with any special use instructions. the patches; placing the patch test strip on a
For example: Contains phenylene diamine. Skin subject’s arm or back for 48 hr; removing the
test advised. Discontinue use if irritation occurs. patch; and inspecting the skin for signs of
Do not use on broken skin; etc. irritation, reddening, itching or blistering, etc.
Testing a product or ingredient for irritation Mechanisms of the irritation and sensitization
and sensitization involves several approaches cascade are depicted in Figure 1. Here, an
Figure 1. Mechanisms of skin irritation and sensitization

irritant causes a sequence of symptoms starting makeup, shampoo or skin creams is high.
with irritation, e.g., itch or pain; and erythema And just like skin, the eye tissue can become
or reddening; and leading potentially to oedema inflamed when exposed to irritants, sensitizers
with swelling and blistering; or eczema, where or photosensitizers.
the blisters burst. The severity or presence of To assess whether products may cause irrita-
these symptoms will depend on the concentration if they come into contact with the eyes, in
tion of irritant and sensitivity of the subject’s vitro tests typically are used. Methods include
skin to it. the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test,
Photosensitivity: Some substances only pro- also known as the Hen’s Egg Test or Hühner-
duce adverse reactions when exposed to light. Embryonen-Test (HET);10 the Bovine Cornea
These are called phototoxic or photo allergenic Opacity Test (BCOP);11 and the Isolated Chicken
materials. To test for the photosensitizing poten- Eye Test (ICE).12
tial of a material, patch testing also is carried Inhalation safety: When inhaled, some com-
out but the subject is additionally exposed to pounds may cause internal irritation, damage
UV radiation regularly throughout a three-week and/or inhibit the respiratory system. Symptoms
period, and again after 14 days of rest with one may include coughing, sneezing or burning.
single exposure. The subject is then evaluated For this reason, any compound to be used in
for allergic response. Any phototoxic effects an aerosol or any particulate product should
generally appear within 24 hr and subside after undergo inhalation safety tests. For such tests,
72 hr. The effects of phototoxic substances the Organization for Economic Cooperation and
include intense erythema, hyperpigmentation, Development (OECD) has outlined Subacute
sunburn, edema and blistering. Inhalation Toxicity and Test No. 403.13
Eye irritation: Although cosmetic products Acnegenecity/comedogenicity: Certain
are not directly put into the eyes, the potential cosmetic products also can cause acne, i.e., are
for accidental contact with products such as comedogenic, by blocking pores, aided in part

Safety First
by the over-production of oil by hair follicles, In order to establish a frame of reference

or the accumulation of dead skin or bacteria in to determine product efficacy, it is usual to
the pores. To test for comedogenicity, products include both positive and negative controls in
typically are tested clinically in humans. the study. The positive control is often a leading
Systemic effects: Compounds used in marketed product with an established history of
cosmetic products must also be tested for effective performance. The negative control, in
systemic effects such as mutagenicity, i.e., the the simplest case, would be the test formulation
ability to damage DNA; carcinogenicity, or the minus the active ingredient—a true placebo.
ability to cause cancer; and teratogenicity, i.e., Alternatively, the efficacy test may be a simple
the ability to cause birth defects. In vitro test comparison of new versus old; such as the com-
methods to this end include IS 4011, Methods of parison of novel and conventional moisturizing
Test for Safety Evaluation of Cosmetics;8 the 3T3 agents in a standard moisture lotion base.
Neutral Red Uptake Cytotoxicity Assay;9 and the Whenever possible, the efficacy tests should
OECD guideline for testing skin absorption.14 be performed on a double-blind basis to avoid
the risk of bias in the evaluation procedure. This
Performance and involves providing test and control products in
Efficacy Testing identical, plain containers distinguished by code
Finally, once safety and stability are verified, numbers so that test subjects and accessories
a product should be tested to ensure it performs are not aware which sample is which. The code
to secure its success in the market. Efficacy tests is revealed upon completion of the study. This
essentially are designed to show that a product has the advantage of ensuring an independent
performs the function for which it is intended; and unbiased result.
i.e., that a moisturizer moisturizes, a deodorant In addition to product efficacy, user feed-
reduces or masks detectable body malodor, an back on the fragrance, color and packaging is
antidandruff shampoo reduces visible dandruff important, as it has rightly been stated that the
scaling, etc. best-quality product in the world is no good

if it does not sell, and it will not sell if it does
not look right or if the package does not appeal
to customers.
Final Comments
These outlined measures are required to
ensure the safe use of products and safety
to users. They are important as consumers
must be guaranteed no untoward effects will
occur, ensuring the fulfilment of a “clean
beauty” product.
References
1. Indian Ministry of Consumer Affairs (Accessed 2019, Oct
21). The consumer protection. Available at: https://consum-
eraffairs.nic.in/acts-and-rules/consumer-protection
2. U.S. House of Representatives, Office of the Law Revision
Counsel (Accessed 2019, Oct 21). U.S. code, 21 USC
361: Adulterated cosmetics. Available at: https://uscode.
house.gov/view.xhtml?req=granuleid:USC-prelim-title21-
section361&num=0&edition=prelim
3. European Union (EU), EUR-Lex Access to EU law
(Accessed 2019, Oct 21). Available at: https://eur-lex.
europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:32009R1223
4. Microchem Laboratory (Accessed 2019, Oct 21).
PCPC (formerly CTFA) test methods for cosmet-
ics. Available at: http://www.microchemlab.com/test/
pcpc-formerly-ctfa-test-methods-cosmetics
5. Personal Care Products Council (PCPC; formerly the
CTFA) (Accessed 2019, Oct 21). CTFA preservative
challenge and stability testing survey. Available at: https://
www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/testing/invitro/913966.
html#close-olyticsmodal test-no-438-isolated-chicken-eye-test-method-for-
identifying-i-chemicals-inducing-serious-eye-damage-and-
6. McAteer, F. (Accessed 2019, Oct 21). Preservative effective-
ii-chemicals-not-requiring-classification-for-eye-irritation-or-
ness testing: Demonstrating cosmetic contamination
serious-eye-damage_9789264203860-en
control. Available at: http://newenglandscc.org/wp-content/
uploads/2016/10/Preservative-Effectiveness-Testing- 13. OECD (Accessed 2019, Oct 21). Guidance document on
Presentation.pdf inhalation toxicity studies. Available at: https://www.oecd.
org/officialdocuments/publicdisplaydocumentpdf/?cote=
7. Bureau of Indian Standards (Accessed 2019, Oct 21).
env/jm/mono(2009)28/rev1&doclanguage=en
Indian standard: Classification of cosmetics raw materials
and adjuncts. Part 1 dyes, colors and pigments (second 14. OECD (Accessed 2019, Oct 19). Test 428: Guideline for the
revision). Available at: https://archive.org/details/gov. testing of chemicals. Available at: https://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/
in.is.4707.1.2001/page/n3 iccvam/suppdocs/feddocs/oecd/oecdtg428-508.pdf
8. Bureau of Indian Standards (Accessed 2019, Oct 21). IS
4011: Methods of test for safety evaluation of cosmetics
(second revision). Available at: https://archive.org/details/
gov.in.is.4011.1997/page/n9
9. European Commission EU Science Hub (Accessed 2019,
Oct 21). Acute oral toxicity: The 3T3 neutral red uptake
C&T Sponsored Webcast Videos
(NRU) cytotoxivity assay. Available at: https://ec.europa. Find current and upcoming webcasts at
eu/jrc/en/eurl/ecvam/alternative-methods-toxicity-testing/ www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
validated-test-methods/acute-toxicity/3t3-nru-aot
10. Luepke, N.P. (Accessed 2019, Oct 21). Henn's egg chorio-
allantoic membrane test for irritation potential. Available at:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/4040077
11. OECD (Accessed 2019, Oct 21). Test 437: Guidelines C&T Webcasts
for the testing of chemicals. Available at: https://ntp.
Find current and upcoming webcasts at
niehs.nih.gov/iccvam/suppdocs/feddocs/oecd/oecd-
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
tg437-2013-508.pdf
12. OECD (Accessed 2019, Oct 21). Guidelines for the
testing of chemicals, section 4. Test no. 438. Avail-
able at: https://www.oecd-ilibrary.org/environment/

Formulating | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• A clean beauty product seems imply its
development with a heightened sense of
safety as well as unnecessary ingredients.
• For the formulator, this article explores

how to follow the clean beauty
profile with approaches to match
various interpretations.
Simple and Safe Formulating ‘Clean Beauty’

Irwin Palefsky
C
Cosmetech Laboratories Inc., Fairfield, NJ USA
lean beauty is As a formulator, when developing a formula to fit

one of the latest the clean beauty profile, the approaches that seem
trends companies to fit everyone’s needs include:
are jumping on • Using ingredients that have a history of safe use
to describe the in topical personal care formulations;
products they
offer. As there is generally no agreed • If using new ingredients, ensuring the supplier
upon definition for “clean beauty,” many has done their homework to determine the safety
organizations have taken to self-definitions of the material;
for this to suit their purposes. The general • Ingredient safety testing that coincides with the
agreement, however, seems to imply that recommended use level, if the supplier provides
a clean beauty product or product line has one. If not, the testing levels should serve as a
been developed with a heightened sense guide to formula use levels;
of safety for consumers, and avoiding the
• Avoiding the use of ingredients that
use of some “bad actor” materials as well
consumers have been led to believe
as unnecessary ingredients. These param-
are “bad actors” in personal care, i.e.,
eters require the formulations developed
phthalates, parabens, sulfates and
and ingredients utilized to be backed by
formaldehyde (I will not comment on
supporting data that shows they have
whether these materials present any
passed the test for topical use.
safety hazard to a formulation);
facebook.com/CandTmagazine Reproduction
Cosmetics & Toiletries in English or any other language of
@cosmeticsandtoiletries
CT1911_12_Formulating_Palefsky_fcx_DM.indd 64 11/11/19 11:42 AM

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 65

Simple and Safe
Developing a clean beauty formula does not

preclude the use of an emollient system with
a safe history of use, or whose dossier shows
its suitability and safety for topical use.
• Trying to minimize the number of ingredients reducing the number of ingredients in a

in the formulation without compromising on formulation to achieve the same results.
performance and esthetics. This becomes a
challenge when the project brief requests the Selecting the Emulsifier
addition of ingredients for marketing benefits When formulating an emulsion system,
rather than their functional contribution to one of the more daunting tasks is identifying
product performance, esthetics or stability; and selecting the emulsifier to be used. Besides
• Ensuring the functional ingredients in the functionality, there is added pressure to move
formulation are used at the levels shown to be away from known traditional emulsifying sys-
effective; and tems since consumers demand PEG-free and
natural materials.
• Trying to understand the biological activity The emulsifier system forms the basic founda-
of the materials used. For example, under- tion and structure of an emulsion, so if changes
standing the modes of action ingredients are made to what has previously been successful,
use to achieve their benefits—and how they the long-term, i.e. two-year, shelf life of the new
may act in combination; i.e., whether they product system becomes uncertain. The use of
could compete with one another and cause polyglyceryl esters, sucrose esters and glucoside
reduced efficacy. This will also enable the use materials as alternatives to PEG-based materials
of fewer ingredients without compromising has increased in popularity, and the knowledge
performance. The more you know about the base has grown in how to formulate safe, stable
chemistry and biochemistry of the materi- and esthetically acceptable emulsions using these
als you are using, the greater the chance of materials. Many ingredient suppliers have come
up with drop-in combinations to achieve these
characteristics; a sampling of some commercially
available systems are shown in Table 1.
Video Of course, before using these or any other

emulsifying systems, it is important to learn how
and how not to use them, which usually is pro-
vided by the supplier. By doing your homework,
you will avoid the need to add other materials
to compensate for stability issues you may have
otherwise encountered.
Emulsion systems are generally more stable
with a combination of emulsifiers. This approach
strengthens the oil and water interface by orient-
ing emulsifiers in each of the phases. However,
emulsion systems including four or five emulsi-
fiers is usually unnecessary and neither helps to
achieve a stable emulsion, nor a simplified clean
beauty formula.
Unfortunately, even after doing all of your
homework to select the right emulsifying system,

the proof will be evident in the making of the application properties and after-feel desired in a
emulsion and the results of the stability testing. formulation, but also the marketing claims; e.g.,
oil-free, all natural, etc. Further, the choices made
Optimizing Thickening should consider the compatibility and miscibility
One can write an entire article on optimiz- of the emollient materials with one other. The
ing the selection of a thickening system alone. more compatible the ingredients in an emollient
Suffice it to say it is highly recommended that system, the more cohesive the oil phase of an
the thickening system should be a combination emulsion, and the better the chance there will not
of thickeners that complement each other in the be stability issues.
way they work. Here, too, understanding the chemistry of the
For example, using a synthetic polymer such materials of interest will allow you to achieve the
as carbomer and natural polymer
such as xanthan gum, which have Table 1. Commercial Drop-in Emulsifier Systems
different thickening mechanisms, can
enhance the viscosity and stability of
the formulation. Note, however, that INCI name Trade name Supplier
while a combination of thickeners
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba
is advisable, the use of more than Emulium
Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax Gattefossé
two thickeners can frequently cause Mellifera MB
(and) Cetyl Alcohol
product and viscosity stability issues.
Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate Olivem 1000 Hallstar
In surfactant systems, thickening
may also be accomplished by the Glyceryl Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6
Natragem
Palmitate/Succinate (and) Cetearyl Croda
combination of salts, i.e., sodium EW
Alcohol
chloride, and amides such as
cocamide MEA.
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl
Montanov 68 Seppic
Glucoside
Emollient Choice Beta-Sitosterol (and) Sucrose
Stearate (and) Sucrose Distearate Crystal Cast MMP
There is an abundance—some
(and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Isostearyl MM International
may say over-abundance—of choices Alcohol
when it comes to selecting emollient
Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Eumulgin BASF Care
materials for clean beauty formulas. Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin VL 75 Creations
Those available will not only depend
on the esthetic attributes, i.e.,
See you in
October 2020
beautyaccelerate.com
Produced by

Simple and Safe
Sponsored Content by:
desired attributes without overwhelming the formula-

Clean Beauty Ingredients tions with unnecessary emollient materials. Developing
Cosmetics formulators are operating a clean beauty formula does not preclude the use of an
in a challenging environment today. The emollient system that has a safe history of use in topical
government has not stepped in to define formulations, or that has an acceptable dossier showing its
“clean” or “natural” in beauty and personal care, suitability and safety for topical use. Silicones, oils, butters,
and various retailers, brands and NGOs have released hydrocarbons, esters, alcohols and waxes are all acceptable
their own lists of acceptable ingredients. Beauty brands so long as the selection process is optimized to use as few
ingredients as possible to achieve the desired esthetics. The
that manufacture products destined for international
tendency in this area, i.e., for sensory effects, has typi-
markets are left with the challenge of finding ingredients
cally been to “throw in one more material” to modify the
that are compliant with multiple lists. BASF was the first
feel of a formulation, rather than look at rebalancing the
ingredient supplier to support formulators with the online existing ingredients.
Ingredient Insider Tool, which allows formulators to check
boxes for the relevant industry lists to find which BASF
clean ingredients are compliant.
When using preservation
Choosing Emollients systems, in most cases,
Formulators are finding that naturally derived
volatile emollients help them to meet the “clean beauty” more is not better.
requirements of a variety of lists, particularly when
looking for a cyclopentasilxane (D5) replacement. BASF
Care Creations offers several clean emollients, and here Surfactant Considerations
are two popular options: When developing a cleanser formulation, whether it’s
Cetiol® Ultimate (INCI: Undecane (and) a shampoo, body wash, facial cleanser or liquid soap, it is
Tridecane)—a fast spreading/absorbing, volatile again typically advisable to use a combination of surfactants
emollient derived from natural origin that delivers a to achieve the desired cleansing/foaming properties and
“fresh” initial feel and a light, powdery after-feel. It is mildness. The nature of the formulation being developed
beneficial for skin care and color cosmetic applications, also will determine the surfactants used.
as well as for improving combing properties on A good place to start is with a suitable anionic surfactant
damaged hair. such as sodium C14-16 alpha olefin sulfonate, sodium cocoyl
Cetiol® C5 C (INCI: Coco-Caprylate)—a 100% isethionate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate or, if acceptable,
sodium laureth sulfate; or sometimes, a nonionic glucoside
natural from renewable feedstocks, readily biodegradable
surfactant, i.e., lauryl glucoside, combined with a suitable
and easy to emulsify. It offers good skin compatibility and
amphoteric surfactant—cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocami-
improves shine and combing properties on damaged hair.
dopropyl hydroxysultaine or sodium lauroamphoacetate.
Learn more at personalcare.basf.com. This will usually create a high-quality formula with good
performance that is safe and effective and can be used for
most cleansing product forms. Cost, performance, formula-
tion attributes and the marketing position of the products
will have a major impact on the surfactant system selection
but for clean beauty purposes, the key is to avoid overloading
the formulation with more surfactants than are necessary.
Preserving the Formula

In many ways, preservation poses one of the greatest
formulation challenges as it is crucial to ensure a safe,
effective clean beauty formulation. Here, many opinions
have been expressed as to what is an acceptable, safe and
effective clean beauty preservative, and what is not. Keeping
my opinions to myself, it is worth noting that many effective
preservatives have fallen out of favor with consumers based

on misinformation and junk science. Many have
a history of safe and effective use within the
recommended limits and have yielded well-
preserved formulations.
Misperceptions aside, the first rule that must
be accepted is every formulation containing
water should be preserved and protected from
microbial contamination during consumer
use using an antimicrobial system. The only
exception is when the formulation has low
water activity, i.e., aw < 0.70, which is said to be
“self-preserved.”1
When selecting a preservative, one must
consider a system that will effectively kill both
Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria,
mold and yeast. Rarely can this be accom-
plished with just one preservative material—i.e.,
ethanol at > 20%.
The efficacy of a preservative system can be The global wellness industry grew 12.8% from
affected by the following: 2015 to 2017; nearly twice the rate of global
• pH of the formulation. The efficacy of many economic growth. Personal care and beauty
preservatives are affected by pH. accounted for more than $1 billion in 2017.
• Use of a chelating agent, i.e., EDTA, which
can boost the efficacy of a preservative and Source: Vogue
potentially minimize the amount of preserva-
tive necessary;
• Order of addition to a formula. The tem- Choosing the correct preservative system and
perature at which a preservative is added to optimizing its concentration will minimize any
a formulation and the phase in which it is chance of your preservative system contributing
added will affect the efficacy; and to potential safety/allergy issues resulting from the
use of your formulation. When preserving a clean
• Compatibility of the preservative, chemi-
beauty product, it is crucial to optimize both the
cally, with the components of the formulation
preservative and the formula to ensure maximum
or with the intended use of a formulation,
performance and safety.
i.e., wipes.
One must also be aware of the various Botanicals and Bioactives

global restrictions on the allowable use levels of As stated previously, when formulating with a
some preservatives. bioactive or botanical system to deliver desired skin
When using preservation systems, in most care benefits, it is strongly recommended that for-
cases, more is not better. As such, it may require mulators consider the biochemistry of the materials
evaluating more than one option during the being utilized. In vitro test data on the materials
formulation process to determine the most can provide some insight, as well as researching the
effective and efficient system. The tests most bioactivities of materials. Sometimes a biochemist
commonly used to assess preservative efficacy in can assist, as many formulating chemists do not
topical products are the USP<51>2 and the PCPC’s have this level of biological expertise.
preservative challenge3 or efficacy tests. By researching the biochemistry as a part of the
The USP<51> challenge test is used to assess product development process, formulators will find
the preservative efficacy of an OTC drug, i.e., a their resulting formulas can be optimized with fewer
sunscreen, acne treatment products, anti-dandruff ingredients that are designed, due to their bioactiv-
products, etc. The PCPC challenge test is used to ity, to work together to deliver the desired benefits
determine the preservative efficacy on all other desired, rather than compete with one other.
topical personal care and cosmetic products. As an aside, since most of these ingredients are

Simple and Safe
offered in a solvent, i.e., propanediol, butylene • When adding a performance bioactive and/or
glycol, glycerin, etc., it is recommended to formu- botanical system to a formulation, ensuring
late using the same solvent across all botanicals the combination selected is designed with
and bioactives so as to minimize the number of components that complement one other,
different materials present in a formulation. rather than compete with one another.
• Avoiding the use of unnecessary or
Final Comments redundant ingredients.
As a recap, formulating clean beauty prod-
ucts puts the following responsibilities on the • And conducting thorough safety and preserva-
formulator. tive testing on the finished formulation.
• Optimizing the choice of ingredients to deliver

References
the desired benefits and esthetics as efficiently
1. Steinberg, D.C. (2013, Dec 9). Water Activity. Available at:
as possible. This includes emollients, emulsi-
https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/method-
fiers and thickeners as well as “actives.” sprocesses/premiumWater-Activity.html
• Selecting ingredients that have a comprehen- 2. Pharmacopeia online (Accessed 2019, Sep 20). <51>
Antimicrobial Effectiveness Testing. Available at: http://www.
sive safety dossier and, if possible, a history of uspbpep.com/usp29/v29240/usp29nf24s0_c51.html
safe use in the type of topical formulation for 3. Personal Care Products Councile website (Accessed 2019,
which you intend to use them. Sep 20). Determination of Preservation Efficacy in Water-mis-
cible Personal Care Products. Available at: https://eservices.
• Using a safe effective preservative system personalcarecouncil.org/bbk/WATER_MISCIBLE_PET_final.pdf
that is compatible with your formulation and
following supplier recommendations for how
to use them.
Statement of Ownership, Management and Circulation

(Act of August 12, 1970; Section 3685, Title 39, United States Code)
1. Publication title: Cosmetics & Toiletries
2. Publication number: 0361-4387
3. Filing date: September 2019
4. Issue frequency: Monthly except Aug., and Dec.
5. Number of issues published annually: 10
6. Annual subscription price: Free
7. Complete mailing address of known office of publication: 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403
8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or general business offices of publisher: Same as above
9. Full names and complete mailing addresses of publisher, editor and managing editor:
Publisher: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor in Chief, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403
Managing Editor: Katie Anderson, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403
10. Owner: Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403; Janet Ludwig, Jeb Gleason-Allured, George Fox
11. Known bondholders, mortgages and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities: None.
12. Tax Status (For completion by nonprofit organizations authorized to mail at special rates.) The purpose, function and nonprofit status of this organization and the exempt status for federal income tax
purposes: Not applicable
13. Publication title: Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
14. Issue date for circulation data below: September 2019
15. Extent and nature of circulation Average number of copies each Actual number of single issues
issue during preceding 12 months published nearest to filingdate
a. Total number of copies (net press run): 3362 3890
b. Paid/Requested Circulation
1. Mailed Outside-County 2618 2747
2. Mailed In-County 0 0
3. Distribution Outside the Mail 88 61
4. Distr. by Other Classes of Mail through the USPS 0 0
c. Total Paid/Requested Distribution 2706 2808
d. Free/Non-requested Distribution
1. Outside-County 200 326
2. In-County 0 0
3. Distr. by Other Classes of Mail through the USPS 0 0
4. Distribution Outside the Mail 390 700
e. Total Free/Non-requested Distribution 590 1026
f. Total Distribution 3296 3834
g. Copies not Distributed 66 56
h. Total 3362 3890
i. Percent Paid 82.10% 73.24%
16. Publication of this Statement of Ownership: Will be printed in the Nov/Dec 2019 issue of this publication.
17. Signature and title of editor, publisher, business manager or owner: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor in Chief
I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information
requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including multiple damages and civil penalties).

%FDFNCFS 4IFSBUPO/FX:PSL5JNFT4RVBSF
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Untitled-1 1 9/11/19 11:00 AM

Advertiser Index | C&T ®
The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource

The Definitive Peer-Reviewed
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November/December 2019 |
Volume 134, number 10
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The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource

Safety and Toxicity:

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6 Editor’s Note: Clean Beauty Means Trust

66 [video] Clean Beauty Under

14 New Ingredients & Technologies

18 Clean Beauty Decoded

26 Defeating Dry Skin

32 Expert Opinions on Clean Beauty

2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 10 | November/December 2019

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54 From the Vault

Copyright 2019: Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited.

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MATTE & SHINE

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Clean Beauty Means Trust

The premier peer-reviewed

References Russel Walters, Ph.D.

Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D.

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Illuminates skin complexion

THE ANTI-STRESS ACTION REDUCES THE VISIBLE SIGNS OF

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Pushing Back Against the Noise of

Vol. 134, No. 10 | November/December 2019 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 11

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DM1 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 10 | November/December 2019

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Facing Consumer Reality

Wellness Pushes Back

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Clean Beauty Solutions

Sesame Oil Clean Beauty Ingredients

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Zemea Propanediol Pelemol P3D

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Naturein Wheat Peptides Bix’Activ ProRenew Complex CLR

BioCell Collagen 500 mg BergaBright SmartLipids

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Reproduction in English or any other language of

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Vol. 134, No. 10 | November/December 2019 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 19

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