Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
cam
book
contents
3 Introduction
The Wild Country Cam Book
4 Genesis
A chance meeting
5 History
A brief history of Friends
- Ray Jardine
7 Development
With a little help from my friends
8 How cams work
Designing the perfect cam
- Mark Vallance
14 Zero cam development
Achieving engineering excellence
16 Zeros
The smallest cams in the world
20 Technical Friends
The definitive range of cams
24 Forged Friends
The original cam
28 Standards & Testing
Three Sigma, ISO 9002 UIAA, CE
explained
29 Safety & Maintenance
Looking after your Friends
30 Specification
Strengths, weights and dimensions
31 Glossary
Technical terms explained
Above: Scott Burke on 33rd pitch of Freerider, (left of the Salathé Headwall a
5.10 offwidth) Freerider is 37 pitches of 12d/13a. Photo: Eric Perlman
4 THE CAM COMPANY
history
> a brief history of friends
Some day we climbers may wear special and a passion for climbing – something against each other, and they were held
gloves and shoes enabling us to scale of a rare combination in those days together with a high-tensile steel bolt.
blank walls like spiders. Should we fall perhaps. For months I worked, building But the bolt was wrapped with a piece
off, like spiders our body harnesses may camming prototypes, testing them at of ordinary strap iron as a stem, and of
instantly attach safety lines to the rock. the local crags and innovating design course the device lacked any kind of
If and when inventors develop this improvements in the evenings at home. trigger.
technology, we will no doubt consider it In the end I filled a couple of sizable
On a 5.8 route which I called Fantasia
clever… but obvious – thanks to our boxes with discarded prototypes.
located at Split Rocks, I climbed to a
20-20 hindsight. But for now, none
stance where I could almost let go
of us can envision the details.
with both hands, I managed to
And so it was with the Friends 25 squiggle the quad into a handsized
years ago when I was inventing crack. By the way it behaved I knew
them. The need was apparent, at instantly that it was the answer.
least to me, but the actual
The following spring, 1974, I took
configuration was elusive to me
my first set of working prototype
and everyone else.
Friends to Yosemite and climbed
Seeking a device that would anchor dozens of difficult routes with
itself in a crack, and hold with them. These units were rough hewn
greater power the harder the pull, I and extremely limited by today’s
began the inventive process in standards, and I had only a limited
1971 with a dual sliding wedge number of them: four size 21/2 s
design. Taking advantage of my and three 31/2 s. But they certainly
aerospace engineering background proved their worth, and at season’s
I analyzed this configuration and end three of us used them in an
found it mathematically unsound. attempt to climb the Nose in a day.
The internal friction between any Three hours of late afternoon
kind of wedge reduces their downpour immobilised us beneath
holding power and in many the Great Roof and forced a bivy
situations such a device could pull at Camp V. But we did finish
out. I was inventing for my own in 20 hours total climbing
use and was not about to Then one day after time, and managed to cut
compromise safety. trying absolutely the previous three-day
The constant angle spiral is ubiquitous everything I could record in half.
in nature, from seashells and pinecones think of, and In 1977 Mark Vallance
to swirling barometric pressure gradients continually invited me to the UK
and the great spiral nebulas. Really it is straining my mind to help him start
just an expression of uniform growth. for ever more ideas, manufacturing Friends.
Descartes described the principle the concept came to me of Mark is a highly
mathematically in 1638, calling it the a double set of opposing and dedicated and gifted individual, and
equiangular spiral. Since then constant independently spring loaded cams. Like was the first person to see the
angle cams have been used in wheels of a car having independent widespread appeal of Friends. Friend
uncountable mechanical devices. suspension, each of these cams would marketability is obvious now, but it
Configuring a workable device, however, be able to adjust to widely varying certainly was not then, and Mark was
proved to be an enormous task. In surface irregularities, within its limit, of the visionary who made it happen.
retrospect it took someone with course. I put one of these ‘quads’ The next year, Mark founded Wild
together and took it to the crags for Country and started selling Friends.
aerospace engineering skills, a questing
mind coupled with extreme motivation testing. The cams were spring-loaded Ray Jardine – 19 April, 1998.
Above: Ray Jardine nesting on Eagle Ledge, the Nose El Capitan circa 1980 Photo: Daniel Bolster
Inset: First working prototype Friend with strap iron stem Photo: Ray Jardine
THE CAM COMPANY 5
development
> with a little help from my friends
Starting a new business is like having Ray’s prototypes were an odd When Ray left for California in
one hundred feet of rope out, no selection. Some of them were September he must have thought
runners and a 5.10 move in front of that yet another attempt to get
you, and it can feel like that for I prepared to jump, the Friends off the ground had failed,
weeks on end. but a few weeks later everything
I prepared to jump, the weather was weather was perfect, started to fall into place. Now I had
perfect, clear sky, hard frost and a to go for it, the long unprotected
scattering of snow. The camera team
clear sky, hard frost and lead. I borrowed all the money I
could and got the bank to give me
was in position and waiting, the a scattering of snow. a second mortgage on my house.
‘radio mike’ was turned on and
I had some stationery printed and
recording. beautifully made with polished
started to place orders for tools and
I climbed past the top Friend, got my aluminium, carefully filed edges,
components. Finally, in November,
feet above it, climbed a little higher – sophisticated trigger assembly and
I took a deep breath and gave up
‘Hell I’ll give them a real show’ – and even ‘J slots’ for holding the trigger
my job – no runners on this climb –
climbed a little higher still. Then I in the closed position for neatness
either success, or a big, big fall.
jumped. and fast action. Others were gnarled
Mark Vallance
As the rope tightened, my belayer and bent from use and testing, or
just slung together to try out some Extract from an article published in
was jerked upwards and I felt my
new idea, but retained in the the 1978 Climbers Club Journal.
breath being knocked out of me. I
was lowered to the ground – no armoury because they worked.
need for a ‘retake’. The five minute The name ‘friends’ was coined by
episode on the BBC’s Tomorrow’s Chris Walker when he and Ray were
World programme was aired at the about to go climbing with several
end of January 1978 and a six year climbers who were not in on the
secret was out of the bag. secret. Chris wanted to know if Ray
It was 1972 when I first met Ray had the bag of goodies, but didn’t
Jardine in Colorado, I was on my way know how to ask without giving the
back from Antarctica. We were both game away. Finally he said, “have
working for Outward Bound and you got the bag of Friends, Ray?”.
between courses climbed together. The name stuck.
Though I did not know it then, he After several disappointments in the
was carrying the first prototype USA, Ray asked me to make Friends
Friend around with him – four cams in England. Much of the work we did
on a shaft with no stem or trigger. together over the summer of 1977
It required four hands to get it out came to nothing. We could not find
of a crack. anyone to extrude the 7075 stem
My first experience of Friends was alloy. Everything was too expensive.
much later, in 1975. Ray was very A simple nut with one blob of
secretive. He was carrying a blue nylon aluminium, two drilled holes, a single
bag around which clinked and rattled. piece of wire and a swage cost two
It was another hot October day. We pounds (1977). How could I make a
were below Washington Column, piece of kit with twenty seven high
about to make the first ascent of tolerance parts and a whole stack of
Power Failure. I was sworn to secrecy holes and operations, and get it into
before the blue bag was opened and the shops at a half way realistic
I was allowed to see its contents. price?
Left: Ray Jardine making the first ascent in 1977 of Phoenix 5.13a, Yosemite USA Photo: George Meyers
Right: Mark Vallance on Left Unconquerable, E1 5b, Stanage, Peak District, England 1979
Photo: Pete Freeman THE CAM COMPANY 7
how cams work
> designing the perfect cam
Friction and Angles rods are placed within the 18° angle
If you place a ladder against a wall we have measured. For the sake of
you don’t need to be a rocket simplicity this is shown in two
scientist to know that if the angle at dimensions. (fig. 1) Just as the ladder
which the ladder makes contact with will slip if the angle is too great, so also
the ground is too big, the foot of the will the aluminium rod slip against the
ladder will skid away and you will fall. side of the crack if the angle of contact
Friction is what keeps the ladder in is more than 18°. (fig. 2)
place. You can verify this by taking a (We use this principle when stemming
plastic ruler and leaning it against a a very wide chimney. Climbers can
wall. The angle between the ruler and press at a steeper angle because they
the surface you place it on can vary Fig 1.
have rubber soled shoes. See picture
but there is a point beyond which the of Matador opposite).
ruler will always slip. This device would have limited use as
The material that the ladder - or ruler climbing protection as it would only
- is made from, and the surface it is fit one size of crack - but the concept
placed on are important. A wooden can be developed to fit a variety of
ladder on a concrete path should not crack widths by using several pairs of
be much of a problem but if a metal rods of different lengths (see fig.3).
ladder was used on a polished floor If these rods are fanned out, a
you would need to be much more familiar shape emerges - that of a
careful. There is less friction between cam (fig.4 page 11).
aluminium and a polished floor than Designing the Perfect Cam
between wood and concrete: a rubber Fig 2. A cam, as used in engineering, is any
tipped aluminium ladder would be
roller with an asymmetrical shape.
safer.
What the climber needs is a shape
To measure the degree of friction
that will transmit the load to the side
between two materials - take for
of the crack at a consistent angle
instance an aluminium ladder and a
within the friction limit of the rock -
granite floor, a block of aluminium is
what we call a constant angle cam.
placed on a slab of granite. The
So what is the perfect camming
granite slab is then tilted until the
aluminium starts to slide. The angle of angle? To answer this question one
tilt is measured and found to be 18°. needs to go back to the friction test.
Aluminium slips on granite at 18°,
Using this information, a device can
but if this angle were used the device
be made that will illustrate how the
would be at its absolute limit of
angle of contact is critical to stay
friction in a parallel granite crack and
within the friction limit and hold in a
parallel crack. Two rectangular alloy would not work in a flared placement
rods are bolted together so that they or in say, a limestone crack. The angle
pivot. For convenience a handle is needs to be reduced a little. Ray
added to pull on. Aluminium alloy is Jardine originally used 15° on his
used because it is strong, lightweight prototype Friends, which was good
and has better frictional properties on granite, the rock he was familiar
than other strong materials. This with, but didn’t work as well in some
device will hold in a perfectly smooth, rock types he climbed on in Britain in
Fig 3.
parallel sided crack, but only if the 1977.
After much testing, Ray and Wild plane of rotation - the cams can slip
Country decided on 13.75° (see fig.5), sideways. Remember the ladder. If
an angle that worked well on most you present the ladder other than
rock types and allowed for use in square on to the house it will be
quite flared cracks, in such rock as unstable and can slip sideways as
granite and gritstone. Wild Country you climb up it.
has never needed to change this Walking
angle, which has become
If you place a Friend in a smooth
internationally acknowledged as the
sided crack and move the stem, one
definitive camming angle.
pair of cams will grab the sides of
Stability the crack whilst the second pair will
Having designed the perfect cam we slide deeper into the crack. If the
need to make a workable piece of stem is moved in the opposite
protection. A device using two direction the second pair of cams will
constant angle cams rather than the grab, and the first pair slide in deeper
two rods as used in the first prototype (fig. 7). This is called walking and can
would still be very unstable. Friends cause a Friend to move into a
have four cams, which offer much placement that is less safe - possibly
greater stability in the same way as making it move to a wider part of the
four wheels is more stable than three crack where the cams no longer
wheels on a car. The width between work. Because rope movement and
the cams also plays a key role in this rope drag can cause the Friend to
stability - compare a wide sports car move, we use strong springs to help
with a narrow van, which is more to keep the unit in the position the
likely to topple over. Therefore as part leader intended. Sometimes the tiring Fig 4.
of the design of Friends the cam leader may curse the design
spacing increases proportionately specification but the springs have
with the cam size, ensuring maximum been carefully developed to provide
stability throughout the range of the maximum placement stability.
sizes. Flared cracks
Plane of rotation To go back to the friction test again,
As the cams rotate about the axle the same result would be obtained if
(known as the plane of rotation) the a block of alloy the size of a sugar
force that they transmit to the sides cube or a block weighing two tons
of the crack is directional. Friends were used. The angle at which the
should be placed - whenever possible block will start to slip is independent
- so that the stem is aligned in the of the load applied. What this means
direction of the anticipated load from in practice is that if you place a
the falling climber, and directing the Friend in a flare and pull on it, and it
stem downwards generally works does not come out, (and so long as
best. This is not always possible, and you do not disturb the placement),
sometimes the fall may not load the the Friend will hold up to the limit of
cams in a downwards direction, but the unit or the rock. To fully
the single stem is designed to allow appreciate this, think back to the
the unit to swivel and align itself ladder. If the ground where the
correctly in most circumstances (see ladder was placed sloped down hill
Fig 5.
fig.6). If the load is not applied in the there would still be a spot where the
Above: Mark Vallance on Antenna E4 6a, Cornwall, England. Photo: Steve Foxley.
Left: Stefan Glowacz high on the first ascent of Odyssee 2000, (9-), Polar Bear Spire, Baffin Island, Canada.
Access to the route was by kayaking through arctic waters. Photo: Gerhard Heidorn THE CAM COMPANY 11
how cams work
> designing the perfect cam
ladder would hold and beyond which rappel down later. Concentrate on
the foot of the ladder would slip. As one pair of cams at a time and try to
the angle at which the ground slopes feel or see if there is any movement.
increases, there will come a point at The floating trigger design of Friends
which the ladder will never hold. The will enable you to do this as it allows
same is true of flared cracks. the manipulation of individual pairs
Depending on the type of rock there of cams on either side of the axle. Try
will be an angle of flare in which the using a nut key to free the cams. Use
Friend will never hold. a pair of wires looped round the
Getting them out trigger to pull on the trigger bar
whilst pressing or tapping the end of
We’ve all done it; crammed in a
the stem to release the cams. Try Fig 6.
Friend in desperation knowing it will
moving or tapping the cams sideways
be a real nightmare for the second.
- in the direction the axle is pointing.
When leading, try not to place them
Don’t get angry and don’t give up, 3
in cracks that are too tight. When
most cams can be removed with
seconding, assess the placement
patience.
before doing anything - you might
save yourself a lot of trouble. If it Conclusion 1
Wild Country has always made tiny units whilst a ‘Guided Trigger Depth of Placement
products that are relevant to the System’ allowed confident triggering Due to the small expansion range,
climbing standards of the day and with minimal flex, essential for we found it advisable to place Zeros
what grabbed our attention was the placement and removal. so that we could view all the cams,
rapid development of ‘clean aid’, to make sure they were seated well.
Strength
‘speed’ and the ‘big free’ ascents by Even relatively smooth rock has an
While every effort was made to
the Huber brothers, Leo Houlding, irregular surface which can allow
make Zeros as strong as possible,
Dean Potter and others. the cams to expand out of range.
the radical design limited the
Obviously the deeper the placement,
amount of strength that we could
the less visible the unit and the
build into them, especially in the
greater the possibility the cams
smaller sizes. Zeros 1 and 2, which
over- expanding.
are rated as ‘Progression Equipment’
Camstops
and cannot therefore be
recommended for free climbing’. Zero cams are the first micro cams
However similar criteria are applied to have cam stops rated to the
Smaller cams had proved invaluable
to test small nuts, for example RPs. strength of the unit. During testing
for these routes, but as we
Yet these are used extensively for we found that they performed an
experimented with our own small
free climbing and are essential important role in anchoring the unit
cam designs we saw there was a
components of any rack. in extreme direct aid placements.
problem to be solved.
We do not recommended that this is
Axle/termination design basically Zeros 1 and 2 were designed
the first choice of placement and
hadn’t changed for 20 years and primarily to extend an aid climber’s
should only be undertaken by
remained a barrier to the rack but with a distinct nod to the
experienced aid climbers.
miniaturisation necessary to take free climber, and it is quite clear that
cams on to the next level - real they will perform the same role as Conclusion
micro sizes. the RPs described above. We are now sure, Zeros are ‘clever’
Traditional cam design had been enough and strong enough to
Function satisfy what cutting edge climbers
restricted by the need to achieve the
maximum strength possible to meet We soon came to understand that demanded, the ultimate tool in their
international standards. We needed these units were a step forward in quest for more and more extreme
to go back to basics, so we asked our understanding of cam adventures.
climbers to build a wish list from performance.
their perspective of cutting edge As with any new device there was a
performance. During these period of adjustment, getting used
conversations it was size, weight, to the new techniques necessary to
and flexibility that were the key achieve the best results. From our
elements, while interestingly, testing it became obvious that Zeros,
strength seemed to matter less as unlike larger cams, needed a
long as they were, in climber different approach.
parlance, ‘strong enough’. We found it easier to place Zeros
Our engineers provided a solution. from a static position, for example
Their ‘Direct Loading Axle’ removed in ‘aiders’, than in the middle of a
the weight and especially bulk of the dynamic free climbing move, and
old axle/termination design, allowing the more gently the cams are pulled
a much smaller cam-head to be back, the easier they were to place-
used. A ‘Flexistem’ protected the more like precisely placing a micro
very light wire rope needed for such nut than a cam.
zeros
> the smallest cams in the world
Above: Russel S. Mitrovitch climbing The Joshua Tower, Baffin Island, Canada. The big walls of Baffin Island
offer serious and remote challenges to modern activists. Photo: Russel S. Mitrovitch collection
16 THE CAM COMPANY
1
Above: Dave Hesleden on Duncans Dyhedral attempting the first free ascent at E4 6a an
800m route on Cerro Mascara, Bader Valley, Paine, Patagonia. Photo: Simon Nadin
18 THE CAM COMPANY
dynamics
A General Placement: It is vitally C Horizontal Placement and
important that all the cams make D Vertical Placement: Zero cams are
contact with the sides of the crack, designed specifically to work in
preferably in the middle 1/2 of their extreme horizontal placements and
expansion range (i.e. the cams should shallow vertical cracks. Flexibility to
be between 1/4 to 3/4 open) as the the base of the cams means no
A
minimum breaking strengths in termination to lever out the
kilonewtons (kN) is tested at 1/2 placement. But be aware these
expansion (refer to specification extreme direct aid placements require
chart on page 30). expert training and may only support
You should note particularly that body weight.
when using Zeros rated as Caution: When removing Zero cams
progression equipment, their take care to avoid exerting excessive
expansion range is very small and force on the trigger mechanism, due
therefore the margin of error is to the miniaturisation of the
equally small. When placing components (particularly with Zeros
B
progression equipment inspect the rated as progression equipment).
placement carefully to ensure that all The trigger mechanisms are rated at
four cams are in contact with the only 45kgs. You will find a gentle
crack as stated above, paying approach when placing or retracting
particular attention to the two rear Zeros reaps rewards in speed and
cams which will be difficult to see. safety.
Avoid deep placements (particularly
Zero cams rated as progression
equipment) where setting and
retraction will be problematical.
C
B Maximum Strength: As a general
principle, in order to obtain the
maximum strength from Zeros, they
should always be placed with the
stem in line with the anticipated
direction of loading. This will ensure
that the force of the fall will be
transmitted directly to the cams in
their plane of rotation and will avoid
adverse torsional forces on the stem
D
(see fig. B).
Above: Dave Hesleden on Cuernos Est, Bader Valley, Paine, Patagonia. Photo: Simon Nadin
Bottom Right: Z2 in extreme vertical placement
THE CAM COMPANY 19
”The most impressive feature
(Technical Friends 5 & 6) is the
cam’s broad axle. Combined with
its stout cam springs and unique
tensioned trigger stop, this cam
has unequalled stability - once
placed, they stayed put. I liked to
place these solid beauties more
than any other unit I tested.“
Johnathan Thesenga, Climbing 183
technical friends
> the definitive range of cams
Technical Friends are the culmination manufacturer, from a diminutive 0.4 safety with every placement.
of 25 years continuous refinement of inch to a truly awesome 7.64 inches. Complementing the mechanical
the Friend that emerged from Ray What this means in practice is, no attributes of Technical Friends are well
Jardine’s Californian workshop in the matter what project you are racking up thought out ergonomics. Directional
mid ‘70s. Every component has for, whether it be a fearsome off-width control comes from the use of a
undergone re-evaluation and or tips crack, Technical Friends offer a floating trigger and unique stem frame,
improvement many times over the range of sizes which will allowing accurate directional control
intervening years – Technical Friends comprehensively cover any crack plus reliable extraction however
are lighter, stronger, easier to use and protection situation. difficult the placement. Fast
identify than ever before. Stability and therefore safety is identification and selection of the
An amalgamation of features, a single achieved by a combination of strong correct size is ensured by colour coded
Nickel Chrome Molybdenum steel axle, springs and incremental increases in cams and Dyneema™ slings together
a single flexible stainless steel stem, cam head width – resisting rotation as with printed stem frames.
CNC machined cams (including cam you climb past each placement. These Put simply, Technical Friends provide a
stops) and Dyneema™ sling ensure features, combined with a single axle combination of lightness, range and
Technical Friends size for size are and flexible stem supported by a safety unequalled by other designs.
lighter than a double axle design. This unique stem frame, ensure the cams
means you can carry more Wild are always loaded in their optimum
Country Friends on your rack for the plane of rotation – maximising
same weight as fewer double axle predictability and
cams, a real benefit on long crack
pitches and big wall projects.
Technical Friends cover the
largest crack range
of any
10
12
9
11
>1. CNC machined cams with integral >8. Impact modified temperature
cam stops made from 7075 aircraft tolerant nylon stem frame provides
quality aluminium. directional control and rigidity.
>2. Nickel Chrome Molybdenun steel >9. Impact modified nylon trigger
axle 85TPSI. ‘floats’ to minimise interference
>3. Stainless steel axle nuts riveted for from rope or rock.
total security. >10. Flexible and light weight 7x7
>4. Tuned springs resist ‘walking’ with stainless steel trigger wires
optimum trigger pressure. connect trigger to cams.
>5. Stainless steel axle termination >11. Aluminium swage connects trigger
swaged to wire rope with 45 ton wire to rigid L wire.
pressure. >12. Stainless steel L wire controls the
>6. 7x7 Stainless steel wire rope, cams and is recessed into the cam
flexible and corrosion resistant. providing a snag free profile to the
cam head.
>7. Stainless steel sling termination
swaged to wire rope with 45 ton
pressure.
Bottom Right: Detail of Technical Friends CNC machined cam stops which give passive strength should
the cams run out of expansion range in an inward flaring crack.
THE CAM COMPANY 21
dynamics
A General Placement:
Always ensure that all the cams
make contact with the sides of
the crack, preferably in the middle
1/2 of their expansion range (i.e. A
Above: George Smith on Ugly, E7 6b/c, Trwyn y Tal, Lleyn Peninsula, Wales. Photo: Ray Wood
Left: Beth Rodden on Sphinx Crack, 5.13b/c, South Platte, Colorado Photo: Topher Donahue
THE CAM COMPANY 23
forged friends
> the original cam
Forged Friends have evolved directly exposing the very end to the force of
from Ray Jardine’s visionary design the fall (see fig A, page 27).
which revolutionised the climbing Another endearing feature of Forged
world back in 1978. Despite their Friends is the control provided by
new colour coded cams, Dyneema™ a rigid stem, ensuring precise
slings, cam stops and forged stems placement and easier retrieval due to
you might wonder why rigid stems the direct transfer of the triggering
continue to be made alongside action through to the cams. The
flexible stem units. The answer is independent control of each pair of
fourfold - price, weight, precision cams can be used to the full on rigid
and durability. units, allowing precise movements of
Undoubtedly a flexible stem can be the trigger to tease out even the
placed in horizontal cracks without most stubborn placement.
worry but with a little preparation Don’t dismiss Forged stem Friends as
(see Gunk’s Tie-off fig E page 27) outdated - the benefits of this
Forged Friends provide safe original design will impress you with
horizontal crack protection even in their honest performance and
the smaller sizes. predictability.
Experienced users of rigid stem
Friends have also realised that the
bigger sizes don’t need a tie off
at all, as burying the stem in a
horizontal deep placement puts little
strain on a Forged stem, only
Above: Chester Dreiman on Super Crack 5.10, Canyonlands Utah, circa 1986. Photo: Ed Webster
Above: Stefan Glowacz training on VW Bus, Smith Rocks, Oregon, USA. Photo: Uli Wiesmeier
Left: Lucy Creamer on Flying Buttress Direct, (HVS 5b), Stanage Edge,
Peak District, UK. Photo: Simon Carter, Onsight Photography.
Top: Big Wall Rack. Photo: Topher Donahue THE CAM COMPANY 27
standards and testing
> wild country cams are tested to the most stringent
international standards
Safety Inspect your Friends for the following - years from date
The safe working life of Wild Country they may require cleaning and lubrication of first use or
Friends may be as little as one use in as detailed below: ten years from
extreme circumstances, therefore it is a) Ensure that the unit operates smoothly date of first
vitally important that you check your throughout its complete range of storage for textile
Friends before each use. If any of the movement. components.
following are detected you should retire However, please
b) Ensure that when the trigger is released
the Friend from use immediately and seek note that the following
from any position the cams instantly
expert advice. factors will further reduce
return to their fully expanded position.
a) Metal components: corrosion, burrs, the safe working life:
Cleaning
cracks, distortion, broken or frayed Metal Components: normal use, exposure
First rinse the Friend in clean cold water of
cables, excessive wear, deformed stem. to chemical reagents, heat contamination,
domestic supply quality. If still soiled rinse
high impact load or failure to maintain
b) Flexible stems: particularly check that in warm water (maximum temperature
(clean/lubricate) as recommended. See
the stem is straight and not suffering 40˚C) with pure soap. Thoroughly rinse and
above.
from deformation, abrasion or broken dry naturally in a warm ventilated room
strands of wire. away from direct heat. Textile Components: most textile materials
used in safety equipment are known to
c) Textile slings: check for broken stitches, Lubrication degrade gradually with time, even when
cut of worn threads. The camming mechanism must be stored in ideal conditions. Additionally
Temperature lubricated periodically and after any normal use, rope burn, exposure to
Always keep products made wholly or cleaning and drying process. This will chemical reagents, exposure to elevated
partially from textile elements below 50°C ensure smooth operation and resistance to temperatures, high impact load, prolonged
as the performance of the Dyneema™ from corrosion. A kerosene based lubricant exposure to UV light including sunlight,
which they are made may be affected at should be sprayed between the cams and abrasion, cuts or failure to maintain (clean)
temperatures above this. Tests down to directed at the axle and springs. as recommended will cause further
-40°C show no permanent change in Operate the Friend several times to reductions in strength. See above.
the performance of this material ensure even penetration of the
Warning
although it may stiffen while at lubricant. Allow to drain and then
In accordance with EU Directive 89/686/EC Wild
temperatures below 0°C. wipe off any surplus lubricant. Avoid Country Ltd. supplies detailed instructions with all
Sea Water contamination of the Dyneema™ sling its products and recommends that the user reads
with the lubricant. If this occurs refer and understands these instructions before use.
It is essential that all Wild Country If you are in doubt, require further advice or
Friends are cleaned as soon as it is to cleaning. would like a copy of the instructions for any Wild
Country product, you should contact us at the
practical after exposure to sea water Storage
address printed in this Cam Book. It is the user’s
or any saline environment (e.g. when After any necessary cleaning and responsibility at all times to ensure that he or she
used on sea cliffs). lubrication, store unpacked in a cool, understands the correct and safe use of any
equipment supplied by Wild Country Ltd., uses it
Chemicals and Corrosive Reagents dark, dry, ventilated place away from
only for the purposes for which it is designed and
Avoid all contacts with chemical sharp edges, pressure, corrosives or any practises all proper safety procedures. The
possible causes of damage. Wet manufacturer or supplier will not accept any
reagents as they will affect the
responsibility for damage, injury or death
performance of this product (e.g equipment should first be allowed to
resulting from misuse.
vehicle battery acid, bleach. etc). dry as detailed above.
Discard any product immediately if Obsolescence
contact has or is suspected to have Wild Country Friends will deteriorate
occurred (the product may over time in the course of normal use
permanently weaken without showing and because of this we are required by
any signs). directive 89/686/EEC to give a
Maintenance obsolescence date. It is difficult to be
Wild Country Friends are not user precise but a conservative estimate
maintainable with the exception of for this product is that it has a life
cleaning and lubrication (where span of ten years from the date of
relevant). first use for metal components or five
Wild Country Ltd. Reserves the right to modify without notice the design and specifications of products described in this Cam Book.
All weights, volumes and sizing specifications, where quoted, are nominal.
Wild Country Ltd. All rights reserved © 2002 THE CAM COMPANY 29
specification
> strengths, weights and dimensions
Guarantees
Wild Country guarantees all of its products
from new against defects in workmanship or
materials, unless the product has been worn
out, misused, or abused, as determined by our
examination. Wild Country will repair or
replace any product as appropriate.
This guarantee is in addition to your statutory
rights which remain unaffected. Wild Country
Ltd. reserves the right to modify without
notice the design and specifications of
products described in this Cam Book.
All weights volumes and sizing specifications,
where quoted, are nominal.
Axle: The steel rod about which the cams rotate. See page 21
component 2.
Bar tack: High strength stitch pattern used to sew climbing tape
together.
Cam Stop: The load bearing stop which prevents the cams from over
rotating when a camming device runs out of expansion range.
See page 21.
Camming angle: The angle at which the load is transmitted to the side of a
parallel crack. See page 11 Fig 5.
CNC: Computer Numeric Control used to programme automatic
milling machines.
Coefficient of friction: The mathematical constant that defines the degree of friction
between any two surfaces.
Constant angle cam: A cam which maintains the same angle of contact with the
crack face throughout its expansion range. See page11 Fig 5.
Dyneema™: A high strength polyaramid fibre which is weight for weight
stronger than steel.
Direction of loading: The way in which the force of a fall loads a camming device.
See page11.
Expansion range: The distance between the opened and closed position of a
camming device.
Flared crack: A rock crack which increases in size either inwards or
outwards.
Forging: The process of heating metal before shaping it by pressure or
impact. See page 25 fig.1.
Friend: The name given to the original camming device designed by
Ray Jardine and produced by Wild Country in 1977.
L wire: The L shaped rigid wire used to connect the cam to the
trigger assembly. See page 21 component 12.
Patent: An official licence from a government granting a business the
sole right, for a limited period, to make and sell a piece of
equipment.
Plane of rotation: The area within which the cams rotate at right anges to
the axle.
Swage: The method of construction used to join the wire rope stem
to the axle and sling terminations.
Stem: The component that connects the cam/axle assembly to the
sling. See flexible stems page 21 and forged stems.
See page 25 fig 1.
Springs: The components which push the cams into their fully
expanded position thereby holding the cams against the crack
wall. See page 21 component 4.
Stem frame: The component which supports the flexible stem providing
directional control. See page 21 component 8.
SLCD: Acronym for ‘spring loaded camming device’ often used to
describe ‘Friends’. See above.
Termination: The component swaged (see above) to either end of a the
flexible stem. See page 21 components 5&7.
Trigger: The bar which pulls the trigger wires which retract the cams.
See page 21 component 9.
Trigger wire: Flexible wire which connects the L wire to the Trigger.
See above and page 21 component 10.
Walking: Process whereby the camming device climbs deeper into a
crack by reacting to rope movement. See page 12 figure 7.
Left: Nathan Martin on Pitch 2, Six Star 5.13b, Indian Creek, Utah. Photo: Jay Smith
Rear cover: ‘Big Wall Hands’, circa 1987. Photo: Uli Wiesmeier
“an enormous
task… it took
someone with
extreme
motivation and
a passion for
climbing”
Ray Jardine
on configuring a
workable device
“I climbed past
the top friend…
I jumped - a six
year secret
was out of
the bag”
Mark Vallance
on the first day
of the Friend
“Zeros will do
much more
than we can
yet imagine”
Kevin Thaw
on the new
Zero cams
TM
the cam company