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Extracted
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Iburncorn.com
Bixby Forum
i
Contents
ii
Contents – cont.
iii
Wandering (hunting) Fan:
I’ve attached a log file and the Excel file from a little experiment I did. I have a 115 board set up with an exhaust fan
and sensor attached. I plugged the board in so I could have the exhaust fan run for a while, just long enough to do
a small log file.
3000 120
2500 100
2000 80
1500 60
1000 40
500 20
0 0
1 9 17 25 33 41 49 57 65 73 81 89 97 105 113 121 129 137 145 153 161 169 177 185 193 201 209 217 225 233 241
Chart number 1 shows the “Exh speed cnt and Exh ph cnt” follow the exhaust fan RPM quite closely.
3300
Chart 2
3200
3100
3000
2900
2800
2700
2600
2500
2400
2300
2200
2100
2000
1900
1800
1700
1600
1500
1 9 17 25 33 41 49 57 65 73 81 89 97 105 113 121 129 137 145 153 161 169 177 185 193 201 209 217 225 233 241
Chart number 2 shows the Exh tgt RPM to be a constant RPM while the actual RPM varies or what I call “hunting”.
1
110 8.5
Chart 3
105
8
100
7.5
95
90
7
85
6.5
80
75
6
70
5.5
65
60 5
1 9 17 25 33 41 49 57 65 73 81 89 97 105 113 121 129 137 145 153 161 169 177 185 193 201 209 217 225 233 241
Chart number 3 shows that the “Exh ph cnt and the Exh speed cnt” do not follow the Exh ph μs.
I believe the “Exh ph μs” means “Exhaust phase in micro seconds?” In my mind, the “Exh ph cnt and the Exh
speed cnt” should follow the Exh ph μs as should the RPM. If it is supposed to, I would expect all three lines to be
pretty much the same. Is there some way in the software to eliminate this hunting? Some stoves seem to hunt while
others do not. I think that possibly people who complain about a noisy exhaust fan may just be hearing the RPM
changing on the fan. I hope I have interpreted the information correctly. If not, could you take the time to explain the
control of the exhaust fan to me.
A. Anyway, I was able to get in just long enough to see your graph. I think I know what is going on, and there
really isn't a good way to deal with it. The exhaust fan circuit turns on the triac part way into the half-cycle. It then is
automatically reset and turned off at the end of the half-cycle. For the sake of this illustration, consider the time of a
half-cycle to be thought of as 100%, with the beginning at 0% and the end at 100%. The peak is at 50%. I don't
remember the exact details, but the motor won't do anything except get hot if the triac is turned at the 70% time.
The motor will be on full power if the triac is turned on at 0%. However, the motor will be at full speed from
anywhere from 0% to 30% - the same speed, but in our application the torque reserve goes down until there is no
full speed torque reserve left at the 30% point. At that point, the motor will finally start to slow down.
This is what makes the sound difference between a system that is just regulating the speed at 3200 RPM and a
system with full power at 3200 RPM. You are hearing the extra stress applied due to the stronger magnetic field
even though the speed is the same. However, to address your issue, think about the 30% to 70% region. This is
where all the control happens. If you look at the details of the system, the fan speed sensor picks up the 10 fins on
the cooling impeller. Therefore, with a fan at 3200 RPM, I get 32000 ticks per minute. I need to read this often
enough to get a good reading, but not too often to make the reading coarse. I also have certain limitations on the
processor. This works into a number that I get back which is the RPM / 24: if the RPM is 3200, I get a number of
133. I don't remember exactly why the factor of 24 is there. I just remember that I can change it by a factor of 2
easily, but arbitrary numbers are hard to do. This means that, before even considering the control side of the
process, the measurement side is limited to units of 24 RPM.
2
sensitive - a little extra power will make it react. Second, the resolution of the counter I have to generate the control
(or phase) value needs to be split into the 1/120 second cycle. There are limitations on the processor that get into
this part. Third, because of the 24 RPM issue above, the motor can wander by 24 RPM before I change anything.
With all of these together, the motor can easily wander from -24 RPM of the target to +24 RPM of the target even
through the control system is doing all it can to keep it stable. A system with varying line voltage, sticky bearings,
changing wind speeds, and other things can shake the system just enough to keep it wandering around.
Back
A. In addition to the basic accounting of the ash content to drive the ash dump timing cycle, which for corn the
default values usually seem to work well, there are a few other factors that might be involved. The first thing to look
at is the general shape of the clinker that you get - for this part, of course it's best to have one that actually drops
out. Anyway, the clinker should be "perfectly" round - you should not have any hint of an oval or elliptical shape. If
there is, then the ash dump cycle is happening at too high a temperature. The basis for this is that the clinker
material, when running at high temperatures, has a sticky plastic consistency. When the ash cycle happens, it
flash-freezes the paddles to the clinker and jams up the works. The solution to this is to reduce the level at which
the dump occurs. This is the "Ash dump heat level" parameter in the fuel table.
The second thing to look at is if the clinker is too small. What, you say? Well, what can happen if the clinker is,
suppose, 55% of the proper size, it might not actually fall out because it is held in a little and the ramp on the upper
paddle didn't kick it out. You then wind up with a "double" clinker that may exceed the ability of the stove to drop it.
The third thing, which is mechanical in nature, is what is known as the "ash dump timing adjustment" or something
like that. Notice on the burn drive motor cam ball joint push rod linkage that there is a turnbuckle to set the length of
the push rod. If the paddles do not sweep far enough over, the edge of the clinker on the right side of the stove will
ever-so-slightly be held up by the rim of the opening of the lower paddle. The proper adjustment for the push rod is
to run the motor IN THE FORWARD DIRECTION ONLY (due to backlash reasons) until the cam and the push rod
are in line. This is the maximum opening point of the paddles. Now, adjust the turnbuckle until the clearance
between the paddle opening and the lower rim of the burn pot is at least 1/8 inch. Watch out for the paddles
bottoming out on the back of the firebox. The "overlap" of the paddle between the burn pots isn't a problem and
won't get in the way of anything.
Back
A. The original calibrations on a Model 110 caused the fan to achieve maximum RPM for wood pellets at around
level 6. This effectively locked out levels 7 and 8 from working properly. Corn was never a problem. The Model 115
has a larger exhaust fan, so it was able to perform without a problem.
Back
A. This curious problem was difficult to quantify. Eventually it was tracked down to the difference in feed tube seal
mechanisms. What, you say? How could that have an effect? Well, the Model 110 had nothing more than a free
rubber flap that, effectively, does not do much of anything. It also has 8 oval holes for the feed wheel.
A different part of the change for the Model 115 was a new feed wheel to work better with wood pellets. It has 4
larger holes with beveled edges. There is also a spring loaded feed wheel seal. When a fuel load goes by in a
Model 110, there is very little fuel that gets swept off the wheel. On a Model 115, a fair amount could be swept off,
but it leads to a more consistent fuel feed. While the volume of one Model 115 slot is the same as two Model 110
slots, the interaction with the (silicone feed) wheel seal results in about 20% less fuel being loaded for a Model 115.
This was the cause of them running cooler than a Model 110, and actually leaner than was expected.
4
Pullback temperature mode:
Q. I hear a lot of talk about the stove automatically pulling back until the exhaust is below the maximum allowed.
What kind of temperatures are we talking about for the stove to do this and is it different for each level?
A. The pullback temperature is around 500 F to prevent the maximum allowable exhaust gas temperature of 570
F. This is the same for all levels. If it is not able to pull back quickly enough the stove will shut down. I believe that
the LED’s will blink in this mode as if the thermostat has told the stove to cool down. There is no pull back facility
during the startup phase.
Back
Q. At what thermocouple reading does the stove start the high temp pullback process?
A. The high temp pullback mode activates around 250 and then deactivates around 240. I don't remember the
actual numbers. The process makes use of and is identical to the ramp down process used when the thermostat is
operational, except for around a 5 minute timer. If the timer exceeds that 5 minutes, then the stove will shut down.
Back
A. The 2.06 software can run the ash dump at any heat level, including a special case of the current operating
level. This issue might not have come up if we only burned wood pellets, because the consistency of the ash really
doesn't change depending on temperature. With corn, the range of stove operation covers the range through which
the clinkers go from being solid on the outside to being soft. When the clinkers are soft, the material is somewhat
sticky, like tar. If the ash dump were done when the clinkers were soft, when the plates moved in the leading edge
would stick to the clinker, which might compress it or roll it, then the rest of the plate, which is relatively cold, would
flash freeze the clinker to the plate. This would jam up the stove. The ash dump process of ramping down is meant
to cool the clinker enough to solidify it to keep it from sticking to the plates. Now, from a lower heat level, because
the ash dump process can be somewhat traumatic for the fuel bed, a fair amount of extra fuel is added. It's easier
to get this burning at a higher heat level. The adjustable heat level settings came about because of experimentation
with switch grass pellets.
Back
Feed Rates:
Q. I am wondering what the actual specs are for the feed rates?
Software bootloader:
Q. When programming the stove, do I need to worry it the process is interrupted?
A. The software is divided into the bootloader and the main program. The bootloader cannot be overwritten
without using an external programmer. If there is a failure while the stove is being reprogrammed, the stove will not
operate, but the bootloader will still be functional. Try again until things are working. Some computers have timing
issues. There is a parameter, "interleave delay", that is automatically incremented for each soft failure that occurs
while programming. Eventually it catches and the process completes. In some systems it works better to preset this
value to 10 or something to give problem computers a running start. If nothing works the board can be sent in for
programming.
Back
A. The #8 light appears after a wheel magnet is not found for 7 or 8 feeds. The feed wheel control algorithm has
a default move time of approximately twice that of the time it takes to find the magnet - the wheel is stopped early if
the magnet is found. If the stove worked before, then the magnets are in properly. If you get intermittent problems,
then the circuit board is probably fine. This leaves the sensor. It is normally installed with the surface just below the
surface of the plate. If it is back a bit and the wheel rises up for some reason, then it can miss the magnets.
If a wire broke, it will not work at all. There are 3 wires. They should be red, blue, and black. Red is +5, blue is the
signal (I don't remember which it is when the magnet is there) and black is ground.
Depending on your willingness to work on it, the wires in the sensor can be removed and the pins inspected. The
black housing has a space where you can press in a little tab with a pin and pull the wire out. Check the crimp on
the wire, bend back the tab, and push it back in. The crimp should not be on top of insulation and it should be tight.
The running for a couple hours failure is interesting - perhaps there is something that is heat related. This would
most likely be the sensor. It may also explain a little about the #2, #3 shutdown - if it missed a couple times, then
caught again, there would be an extra fuel load that flare up then down, which could trick the stove into that shut
down. In any case, the sensor is easy to replace. Call your dealer or Bixby and get one as a warranty replacement.
If your dealer can do it, get the new software. It addresses the #2, #3 issue, and also shows the #8 light before the
shutdown, starting with about the third missed magnet, which gives you a chance to attempt a recovery.
Back
A. While the lean burn adjustment is based on the thermocouple history, it is the feed rate that is modified, not
the [exhaust] fan speed. The fan speed is pretty much the one constant in the control process. However, it is
possible to trigger the lean burn adjustment by making major changes to the convection fan speed while the stove
is running. For instance, if the fan was running slowly and it was changed to run at 100%, the extra heat blown out
the stove would make enough of a drop on the exhaust temperature to make entries in the table low enough to
6
trigger the adjustment mode. I seem to recall triggering a blocked flue shutdown using this method, but it takes
rather extreme adjustments.
Back
A. We also had a thick liquid spray that worked well. I think it was by Rutland also.
There were 3 main kinds of buildup we had:
A. #3 light all by itself means the stove was operating too hot;
A #3 light all by itself means the stove was operating too hot and opened the snap switch on the exhaust manifold.
This cuts power to the feed motor. This is detected when the feed motor is attempted to be run, which makes the
error show up. However, there is another way to detect the stove running too hot - via the thermocouple in the
exhaust. The test and safety specification the stove complies with limits how high the exhaust gas [temperature]
can be. If the stove approaches this temperature, it will try to do the high temperature pull back mode.
#3-5 light means; not able to do a high temperature pull back in the allotted time:
If the stove is not able to pull back in time, which is about 5 minutes, it will display the #3 and #5 lights. This was
done so I could answer exactly this kind of question - instead of chasing around a #3 light which is really hard to do.
#3-4 is the same issue [as a #3 light] except during startup mode:
There are a few things you can do:
1) Is the stove in a warm room? Ambient temperatures in the +80 F range can be trouble some. Use a fan to get
the heat out of the room.
2) Wait for cooler temperatures before going as high as level 8.
3) Check the fuel fill of the burn pot - if it is high, the pullback mode will not be able to do anything if there is a large
charge of fuel.
4) Watch the stove - there is only a short window to catch it. When it is in pullback mode the LED’s should flash like
they do if the thermostat is telling it to be cool.
5) Attach a thermostat to keep the ambient temperature in the room a little cooler. Once it gets cool outside, it
should stop happening
Back
7
#2-5 lights - Check the ash drawer switch:
Q. Well, my troubles continue, and today a new one: Just went downstairs and the stove was shutdown with a
2&5 error blinking. This one isn't listed in the manual or on the hopper lid. Anyone know what this combination
means?
A. Check the ash drawer switch. Where does it close relative to the drawer position and the latch closure? It
might be on the edge. Usually this would lead to a #5 only, but if the drawer is actually open, because the air flow
changes a bit, it could lead to a cold shutdown before the ash drawer timeout.
Likewise, the exhaust fan speed is increased a bit if the drawer is open, but if the drawer is actually not open, then
the fire could be blown out.
Another possibility is if it shut down with a regular #2, after which someone left the drawer out for around 20
minutes - it would then capture that error as well.
Back
A. I've pulled most connections while it is running without any problem. You should be able to do it. Just be
careful in there; those connectors are not the easiest things to get off. Check the crimp of the pins on the wires. The
resistance of the motor is around 9 ohms. A clamp-on ammeter would help a lot. The motor draws about 1A at full
power, so a high-capacity ammeter might need a few turns of wire. The fan might run when the door is open. The
system ramps the control signal, so it might not kick in right away.
Back
A. The #3 light is used to indicate an extreme overtemp. How this is done can lead to a misleading indication.
The idea behind an overtemp is that too much fuel is being loaded into the stove. Perhaps the feed motor is stuck
on. The method to deal with this is to have a thermal snap switch in series with the feed motor. If the temperature is
reached, the switch opens up and power to the motor is turned off. However, this is only half the process.
Somehow the computer needs to know that the circuit opened up. To do this, there is a detection circuit on the
control board. It effectively measures if the feed motor is using current when voltage is applied: if no current is used
when it is expected to be on, then the circuit is open, and the #3 overtemp shutdown process happens. Note that
there are now any number of things that could cause this: an actual overtemp, a malfunctioning snap switch, the
internal feed motor thermal cutout, a motor that uses less power than expected, a system voltage reduction, a wire
disconnected... or a fault in the detection circuit.
If you look carefully on the control board, behind the metal tab that holds the trim pots is the main processor. It is
the large chip on the board. To the right of it, just below the metal crystal can, are four components. The third one
down from the can is R-36; its designation is upside-down relative to your view. That R-36 resistor sets the
sensitivity of the detection circuit. Its original value was 100 K ohms; a color coding of Brown-Black-Yellow-Gold.
After tracking down issues like this, it was changed to 10 K ohms, a color coding of Brown-Black-Orange-Gold.
When the change was made, boards with the 100 K resistor has a 12 K ohm (Brown-Red-Orange-Gold) resistor
soldered on top which made the total resistance close to 10 K ohms. If you do not have the second resistor
soldered on, look at the color bands. It can be difficult to tell the difference between the colors. If you have an
ohmmeter you can measure the value if the stove is unplugged. If you determine that you have the 100 K resistor, a
board exchange will take care of the problem. You will also automatically get the new software.
Back
8
Burning Soybeans:
Q. I remember reading that soybeans have a higher BTU rating than corn. Can I burn Soybeans in my Bixby.
A. We had a couple bags of soybeans in once. One way to justify them is if you got them cheap - for instance, if
they were contaminated with something. They really burned well, for a while. The fire just blazed. The trouble is that
the oil is really hard to burn completely, and it covers everything up with soot.
The other problem is that the ash was rather fluffy, which makes it fill up unless you adjust the ash dump timing.
If you can get them cheap, you are entirely able to burn them in up to around a 25% mixture with corn or wood
pellets
Back
Rolled oats:
Q. Anyone had any experience burning oats in the Bixby? If so, were they mixed with corn, or what? I've got a
source for some, but seems to me they would burn way to fast.
A. I got around 40 lbs. of rolled oats once that had gotten something in it. They burned well, but it needed some
trim pot adjustments. I feel like I had to turn the exhaust down a lot and to turn up the feed a lot. This is because of
the very high surface area to weight ratio. They make very nice clinkers, although I don't remember how thick they
were compared to corn. Try them out. If they don't tune in well you can mix them in with something else without any
problem
Back
A. That is another one of those quirky things that happens during the evolution of the product. Originally, the
startup states were 30 and 31. The heat level in BixCheck looks at the second digit; but during startup, the meaning
of the second digit is merely the particular part of the startup. The newer software added two more startup states,
32 and 33, but in a way where they happen in the order of 30 -> 32 -> 33 -> 31 for something like prefill, igniting,
ignited, and started. The interpreter in BixCheck doesn't care about the base state, so it just prints out whatever
comes it's way.
Back
A. Do they park improperly with a regular shut down? Which position are they in during the regular burn time?
The cam should be squarely on the limit switch. If it is off by something like 30 degrees, then the brake isn't
engaging. If it is off by 180 degrees, then it is moved there by the controller. If the stove shuts down in "blocked
flue" mode, it attempts to shut down in a way to shut down the fire as quickly as possible while still attempting to
vent smoke out. Note that this shutdown condition is typically associated with burning lean, and is there to satisfy
regulatory requirements. Part of the shutdown process is to leave the paddles in the "dump" position, in which case
there is a little less airflow to the upper burn area. This behavior is normal and is always a part of the "blocked flue"
shutdown process. You will have a flashing 2-3 in this case. When the stove is restarted, the paddles will be
returned to their regular position
Back
BixCheck “help”:
There is fairly simple help built into BixCheck. If you hit the "Help" button and then hit another button, for instance in
the fuel table, then you will get a message that explains a little about what that field is used for.
Back
10
Set the ash dump target to perhaps……:
Q. Running a 115 with a 3ft straight pipe with a Bixby end cap. I believe that my ash dump is happening way too
soon. The BixCheck number on the ash dump target is 16000, is this the right number? Running on level 3 with a
feed rate at plus 16.8% and the exhaust fan at minus 1.1%; the time to ash dump starts out at only about 9.5 hours.
The book gives 16 hours on level 3 and subtracting the 17% more feed this would leave about 13.3 hours between
ash dumps. Am I correct in the way I am looking at this. Is there something I should change? The problem I get is
very little fire left to start after the dump and the burn pot fills up some because of the lack of good fire. It also
makes it almost impossible to run a level 1. I understand that it means I am probably lean yet, but is not some of
the problem the quick ash dump times and the ash level not getting a chance to build up?
A. Turning up the feed rate probably won't change the clinker size - it will only get the a clinker more quickly. Your
corn could very well have a lower ash content for some reason. The clinkers are a little thin. You could set the ash
dump target to perhaps 20,000. There might also be something with the amount of fuel getting in. Sometimes a
loose feed wheel or something can let fuel slip out; the ash accounting expects a full load. If the expected amount
of fuel is not going in, then the clinker will be thin no matter what the trim pot is set to. A lower ash content in the
fuel table or a higher ash dump target will adjust for that.
Back
Clinker shape:
Q. The clinkers have a very pronounced depression in the center but perfectly round. Does that mean she needs
a bit more fuel? Flame is very strong and doesn't vary in height except slightly at fuel drop.
A. The concave shape is perfectly normal. The outer rim is usually around 3/4 to 1 inch and should experience
very little shear. The center will typically be around 1/2 of the outer rim
Back
A. The solution that may have been implemented on the very last few stoves was to slip a square piece of that air
filter material around the shaft of the feed wheel motor. I think it was around 3" square with a 2" slice in the middle.
It pretty much slips into that area and conforms to whatever the motor is doing. The material is the same as
whatever stuff is in the air filters on the rear of the stove, either the filter pack or the cut-to-shape stuff I used to deal
with. The easiest way to get a small amount is probably to buy the cheapest filter you can and then cut the squares
out of it. The only important thing about the material is that it needs to easily fit in the place and to compress and
stretch easily.
Back
Model 110 to the Model 115 control board change and software:
Regarding control boards: In general, the control boards between the two are the same. However, in the transition
from the Model 110 to the Model 115, a resistor was adjusted. The change is completely backwards compatible,
and about 90% of the systems would work in a 115 anyway. All boards that go through Bixby are modified so the
boards will work in any machine.
Regarding software: The 2.06 software will work with both stoves. You just need to select the right model to
generate the proper fuel calibration. Regarding the fuel select switch: Installing a fuel select switch is actually quite
easy and will give access to the alternate table in a Model 110. Long term testing on wood pellets revealed places
where the product could be improved, which led to the change in the feed wheel and the damper mechanism on the
feed wheel.
Back
Heat loss:
Q. How much heat do you loose out the stack with the lower heat setting?
A. Now that's a tricky question. We never had a good way to measure it. This addresses part of the reason the
fan was higher before: to get more heat out of the stove. However, this process revealed some interesting things,
which were not immediately obvious or understood, and are still not, at least to me. It is certainly true that more
energy can be extracted from the stove as the convection air flow is turned up. The fan in the stove is around 200
CFM at top speed. However, imagine the case where you have a 2000 CFM fan on the stove. Also suppose the
11
stove is at level 4. As you start from 0 CFM, the outlet temperature is highest, which goes down as the fan speeds
up. Now suppose your room starts out at 60 degrees. If the fan were very low, only radiation and a little natural
convection from the stove would get into the room, although the outlet temperature could be in the 400 to 500
degree range. It would be like a fireplace with closed doors and no blower. Now suppose the fan is at 2000 CFM. In
the 60 degree room the outlet might be 70 degrees. While a lot of heat is coming from the stove, because the
temperature is so low, you will not feel heat from the stove. However, on average the room is heating up more
quickly. Even discounting the breeze in the room from the fan, it will not feel very cozy. Because of this relatively
cool feeling you might find yourself raising the stove heat level from 4 to 6 or something. However, if you are in the
room, you are operating from somewhat the reverse process of the stove: you are taking the higher temperature
room air to transfer heat energy to you. This process has a range of air temperature that feels good; the goal is to
run the stove at the lowest level with the fan at the optimum speed that works to make you happy. This all comes
down to that, while the stove may be thermally less efficient with the fan at a lower speed, because you feel the
heat output more comfortably, you may actually use less fuel by being happy with a lower heat level.
Back
How long are you able to burn before feed wheel problems happen?
Q. We're on our 4th bag of LG pellets, numerous codes & kinks to work out along the way including a #8 that
made me learn real fast, as I had to take apart the feed wheel (husband out of town...) My dealer is 5 hours away
and is suspicious that our pellets are so dusty that jams may be problematic. As a new burner, I'm on board with
anything he tells me. If this is true, and I am sitting on a ton in the garage, and may not be strong enough to walk
away from the price throughout the season ($215) has anyone come up with a good strategy for filtering the dust
out? I'm anxious to identify and cure all future problems as I'm convincing myself that this stove may become a full
time stay-at-home job, and I'd like to test that theory out on a baseline so I can give my notice at work.
The easiest way to track down issues is to watch the feed action with the access panel off. Just remove the two
screws (115 & UBB). With the feed wheel seal removed, you might get about 30% more fuel going in. This is fine
12
for a while. Turn back the trim pot or brush off a little as it goes by. If you observe it for a while there might be a clue
that shows up. However, keep in mind that by removing the access panel, the behavior will change a bit; there are
situations where the seal can lead to some jam issues. There is a thread around here that goes into pounding down
the metal tab on the seal as a possible preventive measure. The hard jam you got was likely a pellet stuck the long
direction between the wheel and the tube; those clear very easily when the mechanism is opened up. One trick
when you get a jam like that is to place something in the firebox to catch anything that falls out when you remove
the covers. Sometimes you can find indentations on the pellet showing how it got jammed.
Back
A. If Bixby pipe is used, with the exhaust through the inner pipe and the intake in the outer pipe, then the contact
temperatures will be less than an attic in summer. If a non-insulated metal pipe is used, then it should reach about
300 degrees at the most with the stove really moving. The lack of an end cap is the biggest problem, because that
will guarantee improper operation of the stove. The leaks in the venting bypass exhaust into the intake, which will
make the stove run poorly, and it will proceed to leak smoke everywhere. We managed to fill up one of the test
rooms a few times during the various blocked flue tests. It can happen quickly, because a poorly running stove will
get worse and worse.
Back
1) While it's good to have smoke and CO detectors in the house, it's doubly good if there are combustion devices in
the house. There are many good guidelines out there for how to install them.
2) Gas appliances are simple, safe, and just work. Except when they aren't and don't. While all devices are meant
to fail safely, if they don't you can wind up with unburned gas (explosive) or CO in an enclosed area. Depending on
the situation, this may go undetected for some time.
3) Cord wood fireplaces are cheap and work well. They require a lot of intervention, but you control exactly how
much fuel goes in. However, to run a long time, it requires a large fuel load, which means that is something goes
wrong it can stay wrong for a really long time. At least the smoke is usually quite noticeable.
4) Corn and pellet stoves are complicated and cantankerous, but the do work much of the time. If something fails,
you get very noticeable smoke from them that is easily noticed. An overfill of fuel leads to an overfill - there is no
process where all the corn explodes at once. There is also not much more than a few tablespoons of fuel available
to burn at a time, unless it overfilled, which will usually shut it down.
All these devices work by sustaining a flame - with that come certain inherent risks. Proper maintenance is requisite
in all cases to increase the chance of proper operation. Fortunately, as it were, the finicky nature of the stove will
draw out issues at the early stage of trouble.
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A. With a board that was replaced in March, 2007, it would not have the new software. It [software] was first out
in May, 2007. The issues with #2, #3 and pot overfills at start up are the major parts of the software that were
changed. The new 2.06 software will address these issues. Last year's corn may or may not be an issue; it
depends a lot on the conditions it was stored in. For instance, if the corn dried out from 14% to 11%, then you might
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need to run the rich direction. There are a couple ways to update the software. Your dealer can do it if they are
equipped with the cable and software; not all of them are. You can also send the board in and it will be
reprogrammed for only the shipping cost. In this case, if you send your board in first, there is no core charge, but if
a new one is sent out first then there is a core charge that is returned when the old board comes back.
The easiest way to verity is by the presence of a 1 second delay during the ash dump cycles. If there is no delay,
then it is the old software.
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A. BixCheck does very little automatically. Hit the "Readback" button to read the data from the stove. Do this after
the paddles have run after the initial power up. The checksum and data format numbers are based on the stove
calibration.
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A. I find that it's nice to have a little ash left on the burn pot; don't scrape it down to the metal. The ash will help
the clinker material to release from the burn pot. I usually just use the wire brush, and a screwdriver or something to
clean out the holes. As for filling up, in the cleaning process it is possible for material to collect in the manifold for
the heat exchanger. Access to that is "easy" with a 1 inch shop vac hose. If enough material has collected, the air
flow can be reduced enough to lead to filling up.
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A. It is possible for the ash dump cycle to run without dropping the clinker. There are a couple possible ways for
this to happen:
1) The clinker is too small and sticks to the side. The push out tab does not reach the clinker.
2) The paddle drive adjustment is out of tune, which makes the paddles not clear the burn pot all the way. This
holds the clinker in at the leading edge.
3) You are on the wood pellet setting (unlikely).
After you start up the stove and it has run for a while, empty out the ash drawer completely. If the ash dump cycle
runs but it does not drop the clinker, there should still be some ash and dust that gets into the drawer. Alternatively,
you can run a piece of tape between the drive cam lever on the drive motor and the bracket. If the motor runs, the
tape will get torn. Another way, if you had the software, is to data log the stove operation to a file and then graph
the file to see if it went through that process. Are you able to see the transition between the two clinkers? If the ash
dump process never happened, there would be no transition. If the ash dump cycle happened, there should be a
demarcation between the clinkers.
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Clinker size issues:
Q. If the cycle is happening and I continue to have these issues (clinker size), would you recommend increasing
the number of feeds per ash dump?
A. Increase the size of the clinker only if a clinker that comes out normally is "thin". This would be somewhere
less than around 1/2 inch at the outer rim. The software is set up to make it around 3/4 inch; the lower burn pot is 1
inch. This gives some space either way. Variations in ash content, wheel fill, and melt down of the ash lead to the
actual size differences. If the clinkers are consistently small, then changing the size is very easy. If you never use
wood pellets, you can set the second fuel table to be the same as corn except with a different ash dump cycle in
case your corn changes.
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A. Congratulations on being the first, that I know of, to bring up the #8 blinking light issue without a shutdown. In
the previous software, the system would shut down with a #8 light after 7 or 8 moves without finding the magnet.
You were therefore alerted after the failure of the system. In 2.06, the light starts to blink after the magnet was
missed for something like 2 or 3 times. This gives you a 5 or 6 move time opportunity to clear a jam manually
before the system shuts down; it's very little warning, but it can give you notice if the system is regularly shutting
down with a #8 light. The really bedeviling situations are when it shuts down with a #8 and there is nothing there - it
can happen when merely the act of removing the cover lets the material fall away. Regarding the rubber cover, are
you using pellets? They can be rather abrasive, particularly with that steel backing. That material is a fiber-
reinforced high temp silicone rubber; it is meant to give a general overall seal against air flow. Even though there
may be a few arcs scored in it, it probably is doing the job it was meant to overall.
One thing we noticed after a while was that the upturned tab on the backing plate would provide a backstop which
prevents its ability to float, which would wedge and then grind the pellet into the rubber sheet. I thought about
bending or cutting it off but I haven't thought about it for a while; that could be a significant factor in the problem.
Take a look at it and you'll see what I mean.
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A. When the igniters are turned on and the current is checked, there are a lot of other things happening and the
part of that involves various timers and status variables being reset. This leads to a false indication at that time - it's
nothing to worry about.
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Fuel tables in the 2.06 software do the following:
1) Account for the actual loading difference between the Model 110 and Model 115 feed wheel mechanisms.
2) Adjust the heat level range to use the old 2.02 Model 115 level 1, ranging to the old 1.28 Model 110 level 8. This
means the new Model 110 level 1 is 20% lower, while the new Model 115 level 8 is 20% higher; you should not be
able to tell the two machines apart.
3) Optimize the corn and wood tables to burn more efficiently along the entire range.
4) All heat levels for both fuels are completely usable for both models.
The 2.06 software should work better in all cases.
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A. I need to look back at the other thread to see what the history was. When you get the 1237 light combination,
does the stove turn the air compressor on? The 1237 code is listed as an "internal fault", which is that the igniter
current was detected at a time when they are supposed to be off. The stove then assumes that something went
wrong with the igniter circuit and turns the air pump on. However, if the stove is running for some time and then it
happens, there might be something else. In the meantime, while I look into a couple things, can you look into:
1) Is there a pattern to the shutdown problems? How often they occur, etc.
2) What kind of electrical circuit is the stove plugged into?
3) What operation is the stove doing when it happens?
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Thermocouple placement:
I missed the pellets - they are around 8500 BTU per pound, while corn is around 7500. If you are on the new 2.06
software, it will burn that up quite well. Having thought about this today it occurs to me that there might be an
adjustment to the thermocouple location that could effect this situation. The process is a little tricky, but if the
thermocouple is set too far into the exhaust manifold, it may read hotter than it needs to be. The thermocouple is
guided by a pressed in standoff that is around 3/4 inch long. As long as the weld bead of the thermocouple does
not touch the metal, it can be pulled back to get better temperature readings. You may want to quiz your dealer
about making this adjustment.
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Thin clinker:
Increase the size of the clinker only if a clinker that comes out normally is "thin". This would be somewhere less
than around 1/2 inch at the outer rim. The software is set up to make it around 3/4 inch; the lower burn pot is 1 inch.
This gives some space either way. Variations in ash content, wheel fill, and melt down of the ash lead to the actual
size differences. If the clinkers are consistently small, then changing the size is very easy. If you never use wood
pellets, you can set the second fuel table to be the same as corn except with a different ash dump cycle in case
your corn changes
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With pellets, should there be a clinker dump at some point while burning?
The ash dump cycle is longer than for corn. On corn, level one is around 18 hours, level 2 is maybe 16. Wood
pellets are probably in the 24 to 28 hour range for those levels.
There are a few things to look at:
1) Does the stove attempt a restart?
2) Is there much ash buildup on the upper plate? If there is, then turn the fan down to help keep it in the burn pot.
The timing relies on the ash to be there.
3) Check to make sure the switch is in the "Wood" position.
4) What is the makeup of the ash that is dumped? Is it only ash, or are there partially burned pellets in it? How
much?
5) After the ash dump, as it is filling, was the fire completely dropped or is there a little bit left?
6) With BixCheck: reduce the “ash content”, or;
7) With BixCheck: increase the “ash target”, or;
8) With BixCheck: increase the “ash dump feed”.
Which of (6, 7 or 8) depends on what you are seeing, although they pretty much lead to about the same result?
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Vacuum tube:
I brought my old oscilloscope to Bixby once, but I had to replace a capacitor, so the cover was off.
One of the mechanical engineers pointed to something and asked, "What's that?" I replied that it was a vacuum
tube. He asked, "What's a vacuum tube?"
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Why does it dump the clinkers all on one side of the drawer?
With drawers without a deflector, the clinkers will stack up 1-2-3-4-5-6 and then the stove will jam. The deflector
seems to get an extra 2 or 3 if you're lucky - sometimes 1 or 2 less if you're not.
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Altitude setting:
When BixCheck was first being developed the altitude settings were put in because it was thought that they might
be needed. The adjustments are somewhat arbitrarily based on the altitude, but they were never really tested.
The base tables were all developed in Minnesota. It seems that other things affect it at high altitudes, so the simple
fan adjustment there really doesn't help. I recommend that everyone just use the low altitude setting and use the
trim pots to bring it in. It also makes comparing to other stoves easier.
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Error 62 / BixCheck:
That is a false error that happens with the way BixCheck deals with Telemetry fields that cover 2 bytes. There is a
loss of synchronization somewhere in the process that recovers later on. It's one of those lower priority things that
will eventually be looked at.
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On the higher levels is the heat output the same as the lower levels?
This sounds like the thermostat is open. If you are not using the thermostat, there are two things to look at:
1) On the bracket for the control board assembly there is a terminal block. Installed on the terminal block is a metal
jumper. Check the connections there.
2) Coming off the terminal block is a white wire that connects to J6 of the control board. Check the connection and
make sure it's plugged in.
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Ash dump frequency on MaxFire 115:
The upcoming software (2.70+) will have a checkbox in the fuel table to change the trimpot mapping to Fan / Feed
ratio on the fan trimpot with an ash dump time adjustment on the feed trimpot. Much of what is going into the new
115 software (2.70+) implements features that were already available on the UBB.
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A. You will extend the RS-232 link between the USB to RS-232 adapter (if needed) and the Bixby stove
communication cable. You will need a straight-through 9-pin (known variously as DB-9 or DE-9) RS-232 extension
cable. You can tie several of them together. That length should not be any problem at all. The cables should be
around $5 for 6' at any electronics store. You cannot use a null-modem cable. Also watch out for UPS power supply
cables; they look the same but are wired up differently and will not work.
As for the USB to RS-232 adapter, I recommend: http://www.easysync-ltd.com/ scroll down to: ES-U-1001-A
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Open door?
Q. The wife said she came home to find "4" blinking (open door). Honestly, I assumed she must have miscounted
the lights. When I started the stove back up, about an hour later, I am eating breakfast when I realize the stove is
awful quite for being on 8. I went to have a look, and what do you know, fire is out, and "4" is flashing. What the
heck? I had been in there not 10 minutes earlier and everything was fine. Obviously, the door is not open, and
closes as snug as ever. Without adjusting a thing, I hit the on button, it fires up and runs normally.
A. You can access and adjust the switch with just the side panel off. The screws that hold it in are kind of tiny.
You may need some fine screwdrivers and pliers to do it. Another method that sometimes works is to bend the tab
on the switch a bit to make it click earlier.
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A. The stove formatting process does take longer. It now does the following:
1) It completely erases the memory before programming anything into it
2) It verifies all writes by reading back the value and rewriting if the value is incorrect.
Therefore, with two write processes (erase and data) and an extra read process (verification) you will wind up with
that. You now have full control of the 2-3 mode. Set the LB [lean burn] threshold to 100% or the adjustments to 0
and the mode is effectively turned off. Or, apply whatever parameters seem to work.
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A. An occasional flashing indicates the lean burn recovery mode; a shutdown with 2-3 indicates the blocked flue
shutdown, which is usually either caused by running out of fuel or something like that.
If it is only occasional there is not anything to worry about. Perhaps fuel didn't feed quite properly, or the winds
changed, or just because.
There was no functionality for this in software previous to 2.06.
The 2.06 software had fixed parameters of 25% threshold, 0% exhaust, and +30% feed.
The 2.70 software has adjustable parameters with default values of 35% threshold, -10% fan, and +20% feed.
The changes reflect the usage and testing that was done on it. Less sensitive to prevent going into that mode so
often, and less fuel going in to reduce the oscillations that can happen.
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BixCheck log file:
The trouble is how to display data in a way that Excel [or another spreadsheet] can do easily. For instance, with the
LED display, I would prefer to print that out in HEX or binary. However, Excel can't graph that kind of thing.
Therefore, the LED data is the decimal representation of the binary coding (in reverse order) of the LED’s. With the
stove running on level 4, switching between 15 and 9 is showing: 11110000 and 10010000 respectively: in other
words, a flashing 2-3 for lean burn recovery mode. [1=LED ON, 0=LED OFF ]
Binary: 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Decimal: 1 2 4 8 16 32 64 128
Examples:
Binary 11110000 = 15 Decimal Binary 10010000 = 9 Decimal Binary 11111111 = 255 Decimal
The Error listings are caused by a couple different factors having to do with data synchronization on the BixCheck
side and are not an indication of improper stove operation. When you import the datalog into Excel, or the
spreadsheet program of your choice, you need to import it as a CSV or comma delimited file. Select a column of
Telemetry data to graph. Note that, with multiple graphs, it may scale the height based on the range that is
numerically highest, so you may need to divide or multiply an entire column to have them display properly. I find
that I don't usually care so much about the actual values; instead the general shape is what I look for. It may take
some time to interpret what is happening in the graphs. Some convenient parameters to graph are: "TC points",
"Exh speed cnt", "State ctrl", and "Feed cycle s" or any of your choice.
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A. Yes, in that setup the stove will ramp from 8 down to 3, and then ramp back to 8. Because of the ramping
process, which takes between 3 and 10 minutes per level, the stove may actually be released to ramp back up
before it ever makes it to the low level. The variable ramping time accounts for how quickly the temperature is
changing. The stove is not allowed to change too quickly - for instance, in this situation where it goes from 8 to 3, if
it went directly to level 3 from 8 there would be too much heat for the lower fuel input, and not enough fan for proper
combustion, so you would wind up with a lot of unburned fuel going up the stack, along with soot and other bad
things.
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A. It sounds like the ash mechanism push rod adjustment. A Model 110 from that time was probably a little early
to have that adjustment done at the factory. In your case, it was probably on the edge, and over time things settled
in to where it jams up.
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Manual ash dump cycles twice and dumps fire:
Q. I have read that pushing the on button twice .forces a dump which it does but it seams to cycle twice instead of
the once normal cycle and I lose the fire.
A. You have encountered an issue that may lead to a change in the software. The original purpose of the forced
ash dump was to deal with startup problems. Those problems were since mostly solved, yet the process remains.
The trouble is that the forced ash dump does not reset the ash counter. Therefore, if this is done, for instance, 90%
of the way into the ash dump count, you will then get another ash dump after the remaining 10% was done, making
the entire fuel bed get dropped. These issues will be addressed one way or the other as the next release
approaches. In the mean time, whether in 2.06 or 2.70 this can be tended to somewhat. The Ratio / Ash mode in
2.70 may be of use for you.
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A. The fan sensor picks up a secondary fan blade just behind the main housing. It is mounted to the fan housing
by a yellow chromate bracket with two screws. If the sensor is hitting the blade, there will be a definite metallic
sound. The sound will probably hit for two or three fins per revolution and then miss the rest, although it's possible
for most of them to hit. While it is difficult to see, there is generally not a reason to pull out any of the motors. As
you seem to have found it, the easiest way to adjust it is to bend the bracket back a bit. This method works if you
are able reach in there - that is the difficult part.
First, with the stove cool, open the door and get the fan motor running. From the exhaust side, push down on the
sensor a little - not enough to bend the metal, just enough to flex it in. The noise should become louder if that is the
problem. If you determine that as the problem, access to it is possible from the control board side. You can get a
shot at it through the space between the back of the convection fan housing and the back of the firebox. However,
the space may be to too small for you to actually do anything directly; even though, you can feel the bracket and
see how it fits in there compared to the rest of the assembly. A long, flat-blade screwdriver can get in there and be
used to bend it up. This should be done with the stove unplugged. If you need to pull out equipment, I would
recommend that you don't pull out the exhaust assembly. Instead, depending on how you can get things out, pull
out the convection fan assembly. This may require that you also pull out the circuit board assembly and the air
pump assembly. However, while the convection fan is the hardest of those three, the exhaust fan assembly is more
troublesome than all three put together.
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A. You have to watch the calibration when changing software. Strange things can happen - actually, what can
happen is that the calibration settings won't be used at all, so the stove will use the default internal table with no
adjustments. The easiest way when going to 2.70 is to use the "Update Wizard!" to do it. Then everything is done
automatically. If you watch the update wizard process closely you can see how to do the same things manually
later on.
I have found a rather wide range of behavior across pellets, more than is easy to deal with from one calibration.
Issues with wood pellets are the main reason the option for "Ratio" mode was added to the fuel table. You may
want to tinker with that to bring in the ash dump. One of the things about ash is that even though by weight a
number of different brands may all be the same ash content, but the consistencies of the ash can vary quite a bit.
Some mixtures form tiny clinker bits, some form high volume clinker bits, some form light ash that blows out the pot,
and some forms heavy ash that stay in [the burn pot]. Seemingly independent from the nature of the ash is how the
burn is: some are a little leaner, some are a little richer. You may need a more frequent ash dump if it produces
high volume ash. However, tuning the burn in is the priority - let the ash collect on the upper burn plate if
necessary.
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Calibration tables different in ver. 2.02 vs ver. 2.06:
The calibrations for the fuel tables are different. I had to look it up. It's been a while. However, the internal fuel table
is the same for 2.02 and 2.06. Therefore, you can simulate 2.02 operation (except for the occasional lean burn
adjustment) by setting all the 2.06 Fuel adjustments to the 2.02 values, which is 100 all the way down.
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Miscellaneous issues:
1) Burn consistency issues - possibly triggering the lean burn or blocked flue improperly
2) Ash dump issues - by definition taking place after the stove ran for a while. Have you tried to reduce the ash dump
heat level of the clinkers? Right now, it is on level 4. If you set that to level 3 or 2, it will firm up the clinker more
before dropping it.
3) Thermostat issues - can tip a barely working stove over the edge
If possible, let's try to tune things in without the thermostat, and then once things run well, we can use it again.
4) Differences between 2.02, 2.06, and 2.70.
The fuel tables between 2.02 and 2.06 are the same, but 2.06 has the lean burn compensation that drops an extra
30% in the burn pot. This compensation can be turned off in 2.70, however the fuel table is set to be more rich.
Therefore, even if turned off, the stove will be more rich in 2.70 than it was in 2.02.
These may play into the ash dump issues by resulting in a hotter clinker.
I think we can split up these problems and fix them one at a time.
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Thermal efficiency:
This is the ratio of the heat delivered to the room over the heat content of the fuel. The rest goes out the exhaust.
This is a tricky test to do. Even after it is done, a change in conditions can affect it. For instance, a hot running
stove in a cold room will be more efficient than after the room heats up. This test was done on a Model 100 and
resulted in around 60%. While not done on a Model 115, it should be higher due to changes in the convection fan
control process.
Application Efficiency:
What I call "application efficiency" for lack of a better term. The main question is whether your method of heating
does what you want. If my stove is on the top floor and I want to heat the lower level, no matter how well the stove
is running my application efficiency is low because the heat has a hard time going down. If I have a low efficiency
burner heating water for in-floor heat, my application efficiency may be high if the warm floor feels nice even
through the room air is 60 degrees. One situation that came up with the Model 115 was that the speed was set
rather high, for higher thermal efficiency, which resulted in the convection air feeling "cold". The solution was to
reduce the fan speed, which reduced the thermal efficiency of the stove a little, while increasing the convection
outlet air temperature to make the stove feel hotter. This is what the "Procrastinator" was all about. Things like
moisture content also get thrown in and things like BTU / lb., BTU / $, etc.
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Values in the original 2.70 are: Values in the 2.70 test release are: Values in the 2.71 test release are:
Values in the 2.71 test release is a less sensitive case, with no fan adjustment, and a 20% feed adjustment. This is
based on observations and feedback from users of it. A reduction in fan speed can send the temperature a little too
much; actually, it may be that a small increase in fan speed might be done.
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The 5 Step Troubleshooting Approach consists of the following:
You need to gather information regarding the equipment and the problem. Be sure you understand how the
equipment is designed to operate. It is much easier to analyze faulty operation when you know how it should
operate.
Step 1 – Observe:
Most faults provide obvious clues as to their cause. Through careful observation and a little bit of reasoning, most
faults can be identified as to the actual component with very little testing. Don't forget to use your other senses
when inspecting equipment. Pay particular attention to areas that were identified either by past history or by the
person that reported the problem. A note of caution here! Do not let these mislead you, past problems are just that
– past problems, they are not necessarily the problem you are looking for now.
A very important rule when taking meter readings is to predict what the meter will read before taking the reading.
Once you have determined the cause of the faulty operation of the circuit you can proceed to replace the defective
component. Be sure the circuit is locked out and you follow all safety procedures before disconnecting the
component or any wires. After replacing the component, you must test operate all features of the circuit to be sure
you have replaced the proper component and that there are no other faults in the circuit. It can be very
embarrassing to tell the customer that you have repaired the problem only to have him find another problem with
the equipment just after you leave.
Follow up
Although this is not an official step of the troubleshooting process it nevertheless should be done once the
equipment has been repaired and put back in service. You should try to determine the reason for the malfunction.
Adopting a logical and systematic approach such as the 5 Step Troubleshooting Approach can help you to
troubleshoot like an expert!
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The 7 Step Troubleshooting Approach consists of the following:
1. Gather information:
Gathering information is a logical first step in any troubleshooting endeavor. Ask about or perform the following:
How exactly is the equipment supposed to operate?
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